I went with the Renthal 609 CR High bend fatbar on my 300 and I love the extra height and width (6ft 2). All wires still have plenty of room too. Precision Motorcycle racks just released their 300L rear rack for preorder so is an decent USA option for a rear rack if anyone is interested.
@@chrisweber6129 i tried measure orginal bar. It has 80 cm high, 79,5 width and 73mm of sweep. So you added 50mm to it. Nice! I am thinking to add only riser 50mm without change bars. I do not know what will be better with new bar.
@@dzinksol Yea that sounds right, feels level for me sitting and much better while standing vs stock. The stock steel bar is fine if you dont offroad, steel bars are much easier to bend / break if you tip. The thick bar (1-1/8th vs 7/8) seems to dampen vibrations a bit better and is obviously stronger.
Trying to find the exact bars that you have in the video and wanted to get your input on what they are actually called on the CRFSONLY website. Or if you have the exact model number for that specific height and bend. I really like those and wanna get them for my new 300l. Thanks
I just added the renthals, the zeta handguards and the pillow top grips. Thanks for the great video. It made all the difference to see how you did this.
Thanks (from the UK) for taking the time to post this up - very useful. Loving the content you're producing. Watching with interest how you get on with the 300. May well tip me over the edge rather than going for a T7.
Thanks for the video! Ran into the same issues trying to put my Acerbis hand guards on my 300L. Ordered bars and grips and will have another go when they show up! Thanks!
Just came across your install. Do the brake lines, clutch and throttle cables have enough free play with the jimmy button bend or did you have to modify that later?
Hi, great information and I am starting my own bar replacement. Was wondering if you found the torque specs on the risers and clutch / brake assemblies? I only see three torque specs in the manual and none are for those components. Did I miss them?
2:46 Japanese bikes never use philips screw. They use JIS all over. A big misunderstanding from many guys, this is why the screws often are screwed.. Use the proper JIS screwdriver. :) thanks for the video
It is still one there and works fine for me, the best way is to drill a hole in the bars for the notch to sit in but you want to make sure it’s in the correct spot first.
Hello. I am reaching out to you for help. I changed my handlebars on my CRF300 Rally some month ago becouse the bar was a little bit to low and a lot to close to my body when standing up. The bar was changed by my dealer. When the job was done and I left the dealer I forget to take the old bars with me. After changing to Renthal RC with 20mm risers the bars is now a little bit to high (easily fixed) but also makes me really fatigue when riding on long trips. I am now looking for another bar and want the original bar for reference. Do you still have the old bar? And if you do, is it possible to send me the dimensions of the bar? I really appreciate the help 🙏
Hi Frank - Questions on the 3m tape please. It looks like the suggestions are 1) once around the bars, leaving a small edge exposed 2) Double sided tape. One side sticks to the bars, but for the top side do you make it sticky also? 3) tape width - .4 or .94? Thanks for your help.
It depends on the tape, I went once around, I’m not sure about the thickness but I did leave a small edge exposed for the controls to sit on. It does work but if I had to do it again, I would wrap black take in a thin layer around the bars, then put the controls on and tighten then a bit so the dimples make marks in the tape. Remember be the controls and drill the bars but not all the way through. I think this would be best
@@Woodzman I am committed having alread ground off the dimples. Will I regret it if I don't buy a replacement throttle assembly (only way I know to get the plate, have not found it by itself)? Also, If I I go the tape route, do I let the top part of the tape be sticky? Appriciate your help.
I tried every thickness of tape in every location, nothing worked. I had to get creative to build up the bump on the plate I had ground off, then drilled the bar, all fixed. I wasted a bunch of time trying to make tape work. Do it as designed and start of with a drill.
Sweet, they are pretty good, a little hard to get lined up but pretty good, you have the rally so I think your bar inserts are removable. I have watched your videos
@@Woodzman I’ll look to your lead on the hand guard install video, I got a small kobalt socket set yesterday to adjust my rally levers. Great content and deep respect!
I also ground off the nipples from the throttle and clutch side as you did in the video but couldn't get the throttle side very firm with the double sided tape. Are you aware if another plate can be purchased so I can drill my new bars like the OEM were or do you have buy a whole new throttle assembly?
One thing I don’t hear people say in these on the alignment of your handlebars is if they are angled forwards or backwards, vs being inline with the angle of your front forks, you will lose a lot stability off-road since the steering geometry gets out of whack.
I put my hand grips level, and the make the cross bar on the Renthal bars pretty much center between the handlebar clan bolts. The same as the stock is
My bike is at the dealer. Should have it tomorrow or Wednesday Unfortunately I have to go for throat surgery on Thursday so it’s gonna sit for a few days.
Excellent video , can you tell me where you got the 3m tape from is it 2 sided? Mayne give me a part number or something to that effect . I ground my nubs off and now my controls slide around so I guess the tape is part n parcel of doing it the way you described
Make sure you clean the bar and control with alcohol and let it dry. Then use the tape. When you first get it back on, it may move a little but after a day or so it will get more solid. Here is the tape amzn.to/3JDfiVb
@@Woodzman excellent thank you for the fast response . Did you just do 1 full wrap around the bar? And the width of the gage cluster or just one piece kinda in the middle?
The levers should be aligned with the guards, you put them way down, they will brake. I understand that the handguards in that position will work better, but you should find a compromise and align them with the levers.
You will have a strange smell for maybe 50-60 miles but it will go away. Just look everything over and make sure nothing is touching the exhaust. Just get the best 3M take you can buy, I have had mine for years so I don’t know what version it is. Just make sure the twist throttle housing part with the controls on it will Not rotate
Did the tape actually give you the results you wanted? I tried so many different thicknesses and could not get the throttle side controls to not have play in them.
Great video. Thanks. So the bar end inserts can be removed on the Rally but not L version? I'd like to be able to put the hand guards on without changing bars when I get my Rally next week.
Hi Frank, when I put my barkbusters on with the original bars I also put 25mm bar risers on. I found that there was quite a bit of pressure on the throttle cable on turning left. This didn't affect the control but uncomfortable tightness on the cable. I couldn't see any way of getting any more cable length. This pull on the cable will it cause problems as time pases. Do you think there is any extention bits without getting a longer cable. Cheers Trevor from Oz.
Is the throttle grip not quite long enough for you too? I just got pillowtop grips and the flanged part of throttle mechanism is showing now. The stock grips go around that part.
What kind of tape are you using? My controls on the throttle side still rotate (wiggle) even after using gorilla brand double sided tape. I've tried several tape thicknesses and application locations.
Thanks for the video! I want to change my handlebars on my recently purchased crf300l. I'm on the fence between the Protaper CR high (7/8) or the Renthals Jimmy Buttons ... Did you change the cables and the clutch/front brake levers or everything fits nicely? Thanks!
Thanks for the video! Please let us know if you get more vibration in the handlebars at speed. I have also removed the bar-weights on my Versys-X 300 and now it vibrates at 55mph and up. But the new handguards saved my levers countless times so it's not such a bad deal :)
there used to be a device from Bontager called "buzz kill". they were placed into the bar to reduce vibrations. they were for MTB but should work on a moto too.
are the new bars higher than the oem bars? That would be a better option I don't like the idea of having bar raise the bar risers. I have a 300 rally and when I stand I'm just a little too crunched over and I need it a little higher.
I don’t have it but this is the link www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class_2=AHC&Sku=61K1T00&itemtype=N I use the 250L manual, most things are the same www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class_2=AHC&Sku=61K1T00&itemtype=N
Hey there! Love your vids on the 300L. Looks like I’m picking mine up Saturday. What type of Stand/jack are u using to work on it? Also have you decided on the bash plate yet? Is there one available for this?
Howdy, the jack stand I use works good, here is a link amzn.to/3v4qsuQ Hang in there on a skid plate, I have one coming from AXP witch is who made the one for my 250L, I think it’s probably the best. I should have it, a rear cargo rack and chain guard soon. He shipped it out today.
Really grateful for this video, thanks! You cover a lot of details that others either don't or just skim over. I have a CRF300 Rally and all this comes very handy. One question, I haven't been able to find a service manual for the bike yet? You mentioned you'd check the manual for torque specs... Where did you get the manual? 😀
Hi Frank, How do you like the feel of the Renthal bars compared to the protaper on your 250L? Is it easier to stand up? I've considered changing the bars on my 2016 250L but I don't care for the protaper. Just wondering if Renthal would be a better option.
I may go for some new bars for my 250l Rally but I'll drill the holes. Just apply some masking tape on the bar from the end and past the hole and poke a hole in the tape with an awl and spacing should be fine. I'll just need to position bars before locating the angle of the controls. I'm probably going with a Henry/Reed bar as I have them on another bike and like them. :)
That is the best way in my opinion also as long as the person can get the holes in the correct spot. I just can’t show drilling the bars because it’s not recommended by the bar manufacturer or retailer
@WOODZMAN tbh man this tape idea is stupid and your asking for problems if u do this. I've seen peoole posting they can't get their throttle side to stop moving when they are still on the lift. Imagine bouncing around on the trails all day. I get why u put the disclaimer at the end. But it's bad advice and the person above is right.
Ok but peoole are warchung the video. Not diggin in the comments. Thst part isnt sold alone. And its more expensive than the bar was to begin with. You say in the video youve done it numerous times, never had a problem. Come on man. Anyway aside from that you seem to know what your talking about. But maybe post a link to your fix. And something on screen that says dont do this. Ive since corrected. @WOODZMAN
I went with the Renthal 609 CR High bend fatbar on my 300 and I love the extra height and width (6ft 2). All wires still have plenty of room too. Precision Motorcycle racks just released their 300L rear rack for preorder so is an decent USA option for a rear rack if anyone is interested.
Sweet, I am waiting one a newly designed rack, should be pretty cool. Should be here soon along with a skid plate and chain guard
Chris: Are you have 300l or Rally? What risers have you used? How high ?
@@dzinksol 300L, I have the pro taper 7/8 to 1-1/8 conversion riser which is a 3/4 inch rise.
@@chrisweber6129 i tried measure orginal bar. It has 80 cm high, 79,5 width and 73mm of sweep. So you added 50mm to it. Nice! I am thinking to add only riser 50mm without change bars. I do not know what will be better with new bar.
@@dzinksol Yea that sounds right, feels level for me sitting and much better while standing vs stock. The stock steel bar is fine if you dont offroad, steel bars are much easier to bend / break if you tip. The thick bar (1-1/8th vs 7/8) seems to dampen vibrations a bit better and is obviously stronger.
Trying to find the exact bars that you have in the video and wanted to get your input on what they are actually called on the CRFSONLY website. Or if you have the exact model number for that specific height and bend. I really like those and wanna get them for my new 300l.
Thanks
Excellent video doing the exact install next week.
I just added the renthals, the zeta handguards and the pillow top grips. Thanks for the great video. It made all the difference to see how you did this.
Your welcome, thanks for watchin
Your video helped me with putting grips on my 300L. Thanks!! God bless.
Thanks (from the UK) for taking the time to post this up - very useful. Loving the content you're producing.
Watching with interest how you get on with the 300. May well tip me over the edge rather than going for a T7.
Your welcome, I have owned a lot of bikes over the years, the CRF300L is bar far the most fun
Thank-you Frank. I'm learning a lot from you. I pick up my CRF300L on Wednesday. Can't wait!
Super sweet news, congrats
Thanks for the video! Ran into the same issues trying to put my Acerbis hand guards on my 300L. Ordered bars and grips and will have another go when they show up! Thanks!
same! lol
Just came across your install. Do the brake lines, clutch and throttle cables have enough free play with the jimmy button bend or did you have to modify that later?
You have to rout one of the cables out of the hanger but it works fine
Great video. Any ideas for the front brake hose over the headlight? I can't stand watching it.
Lol I rotated the banjo fitting on the front brake caliper and it’s not in my view of the display now
Hi, great information and I am starting my own bar replacement. Was wondering if you found the torque specs on the risers and clutch / brake assemblies? I only see three torque specs in the manual and none are for those components. Did I miss them?
Amazing production Frank. This video looks professionally produced. Great job!
Thanks for watchin Christopher
I have always used WD40 to fit grips. Probably works the same as your alcohol.
Good to know, thanks for sharing Woodzman! Ride on!
Thanks for watchin Gus, Ride On!
2:46 Japanese bikes never use philips screw. They use JIS all over. A big misunderstanding from many guys, this is why the screws often are screwed.. Use the proper JIS screwdriver. :) thanks for the video
Can we get an update on the 3m tape? Was it effective or did you have to drill a hole?
It is still one there and works fine for me, the best way is to drill a hole in the bars for the notch to sit in but you want to make sure it’s in the correct spot first.
@@Woodzman Im a little hesitant to drill. Im afraid it might weaken the bar.
@borisbogart3288 well you don’t really have to drill all the way through, just however tall that dimple is
@@Woodzman I think I'll do the same you did with the 3m tape
@borisbogart3288 clean everything with alcohol make sure the take doesn’t enter fear with the controls,
Hello. I am reaching out to you for help. I changed my handlebars on my CRF300 Rally some month ago becouse the bar was a little bit to low and a lot to close to my body when standing up. The bar was changed by my dealer. When the job was done and I left the dealer I forget to take the old bars with me. After changing to Renthal RC with 20mm risers the bars is now a little bit to high (easily fixed) but also makes me really fatigue when riding on long trips. I am now looking for another bar and want the original bar for reference. Do you still have the old bar? And if you do, is it possible to send me the dimensions of the bar? I really appreciate the help 🙏
Hi Frank -
Questions on the 3m tape please. It looks like the suggestions are 1) once around the bars, leaving a small edge exposed 2) Double sided tape. One side sticks to the bars, but for the top side do you make it sticky also? 3) tape width - .4 or .94? Thanks for your help.
It depends on the tape, I went once around, I’m not sure about the thickness but I did leave a small edge exposed for the controls to sit on.
It does work but if I had to do it again, I would wrap black take in a thin layer around the bars, then put the controls on and tighten then a bit so the dimples make marks in the tape. Remember be the controls and drill the bars but not all the way through. I think this would be best
@@Woodzman I am committed having alread ground off the dimples. Will I regret it if I don't buy a replacement throttle assembly (only way I know to get the plate, have not found it by itself)? Also, If I I go the tape route, do I let the top part of the tape be sticky? Appriciate your help.
Mine has the double sided tape and I haven’t had a problem yet
I tried every thickness of tape in every location, nothing worked. I had to get creative to build up the bump on the plate I had ground off, then drilled the bar, all fixed.
I wasted a bunch of time trying to make tape work. Do it as designed and start of with a drill.
Worked fine for me, mine is still that way and working.
But drilling the bars works also
Wow, I ordered the same acerbis hand guards and color two days ago on Amazon! Great look!
Sweet, they are pretty good, a little hard to get lined up but pretty good, you have the rally so I think your bar inserts are removable. I have watched your videos
@@Woodzman I’ll look to your lead on the hand guard install video, I got a small kobalt socket set yesterday to adjust my rally levers. Great content and deep respect!
Yea if your using stock bars you should be able to remove the bar end weights and then the inserts and they will work fine. Because you have a rally
I also ground off the nipples from the throttle and clutch side as you did in the video but couldn't get the throttle side very firm with the double sided tape. Are you aware if another plate can be purchased so I can drill my new bars like the OEM were or do you have buy a whole new throttle assembly?
just wrap the bar with a few wraps of electrical tape at the clamp area. This should work fine (especially with the tabs still in-place).
Great job on the install. Very helpful info. Thank you Frank. :)
Thank you my friend and your welcome
One thing I don’t hear people say in these on the alignment of your handlebars is if they are angled forwards or backwards, vs being inline with the angle of your front forks, you will lose a lot stability off-road since the steering geometry gets out of whack.
I put my hand grips level, and the make the cross bar on the Renthal bars pretty much center between the handlebar clan bolts. The same as the stock is
I didn’t see you torque up the bolts from the new handle bar?
I did and I mentioned that they need to be torqued. I just didn’t in the video
Thank you ! Looking to get the same hand guards on my 300 ! Really helpful
Your welcome
Waiting for frame guard and SM wheels if nec.
My bike is at the dealer. Should have it tomorrow or Wednesday Unfortunately I have to go for throat surgery on Thursday so it’s gonna sit for a few days.
Congrats on the new bike, I hope you heal fast!
Me too. Thank you.
Where did you get your headlight?
It was sent to me from Honda in Thailand long before the 300L was in the U.S
How much extra height did you get over stock?
I didn’t measure but I would think like 3/4”
Excellent video , can you tell me where you got the 3m tape from is it 2 sided? Mayne give me a part number or something to that effect . I ground my nubs off and now my controls slide around so I guess the tape is part n parcel of doing it the way you described
Make sure you clean the bar and control with alcohol and let it dry. Then use the tape. When you first get it back on, it may move a little but after a day or so it will get more solid. Here is the tape amzn.to/3JDfiVb
@@Woodzman excellent thank you for the fast response . Did you just do 1 full wrap around the bar? And the width of the gage cluster or just one piece kinda in the middle?
The full with I believe,
Why style of bars did you do
I did the Jimmy Button bend bars
Really well done instruction! Thanks
been waiting for this one thanks
Thanks for watchin
The levers should be aligned with the guards, you put them way down, they will brake. I understand that the handguards in that position will work better, but you should find a compromise and align them with the levers.
Thanks for the info . I’ll have to see if the stock bars are comfortable enough for me when I get my bike !
The stock are comfortable to me, but wow I do like these Renthal tall bars, big difference
What 3m tape should I buy thanks for your videos very helpful also my bike has a burning plastic smell is that just new bike smell?
You will have a strange smell for maybe 50-60 miles but it will go away. Just look everything over and make sure nothing is touching the exhaust.
Just get the best 3M take you can buy, I have had mine for years so I don’t know what version it is. Just make sure the twist throttle housing part with the controls on it will Not rotate
@@Woodzman dumb question two sided right?
Yes
And the grey is better. I have black and gray but the gray is stronger
@@Woodzman thanks again I bought a bunch of stuff from CRF’S ONLY because of you hopefully one day they will take care of you 🤙
Hey woodzman do you happen to know what the stock size of the handlebars are? Are those 7/8 ?
Yes 7/8
Did the tape actually give you the results you wanted? I tried so many different thicknesses and could not get the throttle side controls to not have play in them.
Yea mine works fine. I can’t say it would be the best way but mine is still holding fine
did you grind off the tabs?
Are these wider than the stock bars? I just ordered a set of the Ricky Carmichael bend.
I think only by like 3/8”
Great video. Thanks.
So the bar end inserts can be removed on the Rally but not L version?
I'd like to be able to put the hand guards on without changing bars when I get my Rally next week.
Yea I looks at the parts diagram and it shows they are removable on the Rally but I have not heard anyone confirm it yet
just use 6mm bolt or tap it to 8mm (i tapped mine)
Specs for 4 handlebar bolt torque?
Thanks for posting this!
Thanks for watchin
Hi Frank, when I put my barkbusters on with the original bars I also put 25mm bar risers on. I found that there was quite a bit of pressure on the throttle cable on turning left. This didn't affect the control but uncomfortable tightness on the cable. I couldn't see any way of getting any more cable length. This pull on the cable will it cause problems as time pases. Do you think there is any extention bits without getting a longer cable. Cheers Trevor from Oz.
I haven’t heard of an extension without getting new cables. Min fit, but I did unstrap the cable somewhere
there is probably some extra cable at the other end, did you re-tension the cable at all?
Is the throttle grip not quite long enough for you too? I just got pillowtop grips and the flanged part of throttle mechanism is showing now. The stock grips go around that part.
Yea it’s a little to short but it really don’t bother me
What kind of tape are you using? My controls on the throttle side still rotate (wiggle) even after using gorilla brand double sided tape. I've tried several tape thicknesses and application locations.
It’s just gray 3M tape, mine did move a little for a short time, now they don’t move
@@Woodzman You're right...setup pretty good overnight. Thank you!!
Nice video!
Which bar is better for Crf300l - Protaper or Rental ?
Last time you fix Protaper on 250l
I really don’t think it matters, best part about the 7/8” Renthal is you don’t have to use the adapters
@@Woodzman yes, it’s correct, no need to use adapters with Renthal 7/8. It’s will fix in main position
Thanks for the video! I want to change my handlebars on my recently purchased crf300l. I'm on the fence between the Protaper CR high (7/8) or the Renthals Jimmy Buttons ... Did you change the cables and the clutch/front brake levers or everything fits nicely? Thanks!
I didn’t have to change anything, it all fit
Do you have riser blocks on there also? And if so what size? Thanks!
Sure don’t, just the tall bend bars.
Which specific handlebar setup is that?
It is the Renthal Jimmy Button bend
Starting fluid is the best way to install grips of you aren't going to use grip glue.
Thanks for the video! Please let us know if you get more vibration in the handlebars at speed. I have also removed the bar-weights on my Versys-X 300 and now it vibrates at 55mph and up. But the new handguards saved my levers countless times so it's not such a bad deal :)
I just rode it to work this morning and I think there is less vibration
@@Woodzman Less?! :D That's awesome!
there used to be a device from Bontager called "buzz kill". they were placed into the bar to reduce vibrations. they were for MTB but should work on a moto too.
Bike's looking sweet, Frank!
Thanks!
are the new bars higher than the oem bars? That would be a better option I don't like the idea of having bar raise the bar risers. I have a 300 rally and when I stand I'm just a little too crunched over and I need it a little higher.
Yes they are the Jimmy Button bend and they are high bend, a lot taller
@@Woodzman thanks much I'll be ordering a set ... I'm planning to take my bike on on the TAT or the CDT trail this year. Getting it all set up
Very helpful video, thanks :)
Thanks for watchin
I believe you used the Acerbis X-factor handguards? Nice video. Very useful
Yes they are !
Where did you get you manual with the torx specs? I can’t find one anywhere.
I don’t have it but this is the link www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class_2=AHC&Sku=61K1T00&itemtype=N
I use the 250L manual, most things are the same www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class_2=AHC&Sku=61K1T00&itemtype=N
@@Woodzman Thank you very much! How well does the double side tape hold up? I’m a little nervous to grind the plate down in the switches.
I have not had a problem but I do believe that marking and drilling the bars would be best and you shouldn’t have to drill all the way through
@@Woodzman Ok, I had a feeling you might say that. Is there an easy way to make that spot?
Wrap 1 layer of black take around the bar then tight the controls down it the correct spot, the dimple will make a mark in the tape for your to drill
Great video keep up the good work 👍 👍 👍
Thanks for watchin Jason
Hey there! Love your vids on the 300L. Looks like I’m picking mine up Saturday. What type of Stand/jack are u using to work on it? Also have you decided on the bash plate yet? Is there one available for this?
Howdy, the jack stand I use works good, here is a link amzn.to/3v4qsuQ
Hang in there on a skid plate, I have one coming from AXP witch is who made the one for my 250L, I think it’s probably the best. I should have it, a rear cargo rack and chain guard soon. He shipped it out today.
@@Woodzman Nice! Needing the skid plate and cargo rack ASAP. Excited about the bike! I await your recommendation!
Really grateful for this video, thanks! You cover a lot of details that others either don't or just skim over. I have a CRF300 Rally and all this comes very handy.
One question, I haven't been able to find a service manual for the bike yet? You mentioned you'd check the manual for torque specs... Where did you get the manual? 😀
I don’t have one ether so I used the torque specs from the CRF250L, it’s all the same.
Thanks for watchin
Look in your manual and it will tell you where to buy the service manual
Hey, Frank. Does the subscriber that made you that kickstand foot enlarger / riser plan on making more to sell? Might be interested. Ride on!!!
I asked him but he hasn’t gave me an answer
Hi Frank, How do you like the feel of the Renthal bars compared to the protaper on your 250L? Is it easier to stand up? I've considered changing the bars on my 2016 250L but I don't care for the protaper. Just wondering if Renthal would be a better option.
Oh yes the Rental Jimmy Button bend that I got are so much taller. I love them. The ProTaper bars are good but I like the taller Renthal bars
I may go for some new bars for my 250l Rally but I'll drill the holes. Just apply some masking tape on the bar from the end and past the hole and poke a hole in the tape with an awl and spacing should be fine. I'll just need to position bars before locating the angle of the controls. I'm probably going with a Henry/Reed bar as I have them on another bike and like them. :)
I think drilling is probably the best and I don’t think you will need to even drill all the way through the bars
DO NOT GRIND MOUNTING TABS when replacing the bars. It only takes a few minutes to drill the new bars Do it right!
That is the best way in my opinion also as long as the person can get the holes in the correct spot.
I just can’t show drilling the bars because it’s not recommended by the bar manufacturer or retailer
@WOODZMAN tbh man this tape idea is stupid and your asking for problems if u do this. I've seen peoole posting they can't get their throttle side to stop moving when they are still on the lift. Imagine bouncing around on the trails all day. I get why u put the disclaimer at the end. But it's bad advice and the person above is right.
I totally agree, I was sent the bars to review and just had to install they the way I was told, I did however remove them and do it right later
Ok but peoole are warchung the video. Not diggin in the comments. Thst part isnt sold alone. And its more expensive than the bar was to begin with. You say in the video youve done it numerous times, never had a problem. Come on man. Anyway aside from that you seem to know what your talking about. But maybe post a link to your fix. And something on screen that says dont do this. Ive since corrected. @WOODZMAN
So are those bars actually higher than stock?
Oh yea quite a bit
where did you get the rack?
It’s from Thailand, I have a different one on the way
@@Woodzman I have one coming from Thailand too! I just did a Hyperpro rear spring
Mine arrived last night, they are prototypes so I will make a video installing them and then give AXP my feedback
Great job.
Thanks Mike