1964 TR4 - Part 19 - Steering Rack Overhauling
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- The steering rack needed new boots and tie rod ends, but when we started working on it it turned into a "ground up restoration".
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Within the last 2 weeks, I replaced the completely torn and separated driver's side steering rack boot on my 1975 TR6 with the rack on the car and the wheel removed. I had watched one of Elin's videos a while back where he replaced the passenger side boot and I knew it was a challenge. After numerous unsuccessful attempts to install the new driver's side boot over the steering rack flange and cuts in my hands, I gave up for a day or two trying to come up with another idea. I decided to try turning the inner side opening of the driver side boot inside out to enlarge the opening then flip it over onto the flange. It was a little challenging to get the boot partially turned inside out but it worked great. In less than 30 minutes I got the inner boot opening over the flange and I was home free!
Hi Elin. I dont know where I would have been without constantly referring to your videos while restoring my TR6. Your detailed explanations have become the bible of Triumph restoration. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos
Best steering rack rebuild video I have watched and I have watched quite a few. You are a great teacher! Lin
man elin all you needed was barry white music in the back , while pushing those rubber in place :)) thx
LOL, I know right.... :)
I get a kick out of your video skills with the old film look
I always imagined rack and pinion steering is about as simple as anything can be. I stand corrected. Thanks for letting us take a look.
At first it was coming apart and now it's all coming together. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
This is a fun ride. !
Just be careful when securing the rack tube in the vice. They do squash very easily 👍👍
Thanks for walking us through this process. I have the same type of steering rack on the E-type, so if I ever needed to refurbish it- I know what to do. Call Elin! LOL
Great video. I’ve never had one apart before. Good to see the process.
Excellent.
Thank you again! You'll be back on the road in no time.
I used to get the ferry from Venice to igumenitsa & go past Bulgaria!
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
I took that same ferry a couple of times too. I loved it! That was when I was still living and working in Europe and I had a crazy busy life. So 27 hours on the ferry with no internet or phones was the best time of my business trips :)
Hi Elin, great bit of editing on your intros👏👏👏.
Interesting to see that the dirt ingress caused those burrs, looks a fun job to change those boots on the car!!!
Great video, well done!!
Good luck from Spain!!
You did it much better than I did (without your expert guidance) - just wish I could have seen this 2 years ago!! Keep 'em coming
Like it!
Thanks teacher, great instructions!!
Great job as usual Elin! Thank you for your instruction.
Hi Elin Good stuff as always 🙂 I am sure there must be some way of using a Mastic gun or two, as a spreader for the Steering rack bushes? Just an idea........😎
Actually a few days after this video someone sent me a special tool that they made. So I will use that in the future
Good info, as usual, good production.
Great job Elin.. Rack & Pinion always seem the simplest of solutions until you come to the servicing.. It's not 'highly' technical but hard and time consuming graft. Back when I was dealing with these issues, I'd recommend an exchange recon as the more economical way, but I expect that is no longer the case now.
Fortunately your rack and pinion can be adjusted, but about 13 years ago my 1989 Toyota Corolla 1600 GL (16V) had to have the r&p replaced. The new one is very tight (genuine part) and the car is hard to steer. Unfortunately some guys say it is factory sealed but no one can really tell me if this is true or not. Auntie Google (named so because women know everything) only discusses the powered r&p. D3SShooter shows how to adjust castor, camber and toe-in with everyday items if you are interested.
Pinion thrust washer taper goes up against surface with pinion teeth.
I thought so. You can see in the video how I immediately checked whether there is a round part next to the teeth on the pinion and that would be the reason for the taper, but it was pretty sharp 90° so I decided to put it the way it came out as one side was pretty nicely polished and the other one wasn't
Steep learning curve well done Elin. Why not use a tie wrap tensione cutter, else you leave a very sharp end of the exposed cut of the tie wrap.
I don't have one and I don't use so many ties so I never thought of investing in a tool like this.
@@RustyBeauties Ur ads are right wing BS fear mongering , what up wit dat , pal
If you could clamp two long straight edges (say angle iron?) to the brake disks, then you could use a steel tape measure to check the tracking. After geting on the road, the tracking should still be checked again at a precision facility.
Yes, I've done something similar, involving a laser pointer etc.... I got criticized a lot for attempting something that "you never do in your garage".... LOL
You say "box wrench", I say "ring spanner" ! 🙂
You say “ring spanner” I say “ключ звезда” Different countries, different languages 🙃
You French Canadians are an awkward bunch... ☺
You are assuming that the threads in the old and new tie rod ends start at that same point relative to the end of the tie rod, if that makes sense. It is very probably true, but would be good to confirm next time.
Oh, I made sure of that :)
I always drill a hole in the tube & fit a grease nipple !
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
... Maybe warming up the boots in hot water may have made them more willingly - as they do when I change such boots ... (even the zip ties sit tighter when applied to the still warm boot collars)
Yeah, maybe. I might try next time. Thanks
How important is it to have a load on the steering rack when you tighten it to the car ?
I am assuming this is done to avoid backlash caused by the whole rack moving. I wasn't aware of that and I haven't done it on my Spitfire or the 73 TR6 I restored a few years ago. I put lots of mileage on both cars and I haven't had any issues with steering, so I assume it is a little overkill. But of course now that I know I will be doing it in future just in case.
Nice video! Do you have a source for the adjustment shims, they are no longer available from Moss, TRF or Rimmer Brothers? Not much use in my attempting to rebuild it if some of the items are not available, even the pinion bush's are not available. Thanks,
Interestingly my MGB rack uses oil, EP90 if I remember correctly, do the later TR’s use oil or grease?
As far as I know all TR's use this or similar steering rack. At least up to TR6, not sure about TR7 and 8
Help Elin! Just put my rebuilt rack back on the chassis (car is off the ground), and am using R Good's solid mounts. Movement on the rack is good, through the full range (even while snugly in the mounts) until I connect the tierod ends. The steering starts binding a bit as I approach the full left or right position on the rack. Trunnions / vert links are not reversed. Control arms are not reversed. Movement on the trunnions is good (when free from tierod ends). Is it like this simply because the suspension is fully extended and we have no load on it? Or is this just normal? When toward the extreme left position, I can see the rack start to pitch up slightly, compressing the spring above the plunger. Is this normal?
I can only guess that it is because of the extended suspension. I don’t see what else could be binding if the rack itself moves smoothly and the suspension is assembled properly.
Thanks Elin! Watching your '75 TR6 Transmission reassembly video now---speedo gear does not want to go back into the tail housing...gonna have to tap it in there... 😬@@RustyBeauties
NOPE. Again, watching you make mistakes keeps me from moving too fast. This 848-030 from Moss does not fit my CC123486 transmission. If I'd forced it in, it would've never come back out. Always think twice when you run into resistance like this---just like the steering rack!
Elin, I have a couple of tools for you but I need an address to send them to !
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
Thanks Sandy! That is appreciated. Can you email me at elin.yakov@rustybeauties.com and I will reply with my address. Thanks!
I need a cigarette after that episode :)
LOL.... It was quite intense I know....
Aren't you being a tad fussy with the tracking? Just do an approximation and then get it tracked properly
The owner had the car for 30 years and he never had issues with tracking. It is worth trying to put it back together the way it was. It is not a rocket science and the chances I did it right are pretty high. Finding a shop that can do a proper alignment on these babies is hard. They are just not familiar with the little British sports cars.