1964 TR4 - Part 24 - Front Suspension Overhauling
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- The front suspension didn't need a full rebuild, but the springs, the ball joints and the hub bearings needed some attention so let's take care of them in this episode on Rusty Beauties
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"Spring is just around the corner." 😆Good comedy.
I can't remember how I messed up; been too many decades ago, but I had a spring compressor 'slip' and the spring became a missile! Working in a carport, the spring dinged the rafter and the roof sheathing. After I changed my underwear, I felt I was a very lucky man! lol
I agree that replacing the shocks is very wise considering their indeterminate age.. A case of "Don't spoil the ship for an ha'p'orth of tar." I recon your customer will thank you for the detail and care you've shown to the most important thing on any car.. Steering , brakes and dependable suspension. I remember doing the same job on a 'rally prepared' TR-3A back in the late 1960's when there was still a Standard Triumph dealership 5 miles away with over the counter availability of genuine parts with advice, tips and rude jokes from the parts guy's. The rally prepared bit was a smaller steering wheel, full harness seat belts, steel roof with roll cage, brake servo, exhaust skid-plate, a pair of very bright Lucas spotlights and a Bible. 😅..
Happiness is ..... sitting down with my roast chicken dinner, and watching Elin on 'Our Tube' .... or is it ' His Tube' ..... anyway ..... guessing we might get your snow here in Blighty next week ..... enough already ! Cheers Elin
🇨🇦🇬🇧
Nice work Elin, I’m sure the owner will think he’s driving a new car by the time you’ve finished! 😁✅
Awesome. Thanks!
Hi Elin, you clarified the issue I was wrestling with! Showing how to take out the roller bearings out of the hub was exactly what I needed at this time! Thanks a lot!
For packing grease into wheel bearings I found that mini grease guns (like the Hazet 2162M) work really well. They have a small, pointy nozzle and you can get the grease directly under the cage.
They're sold under different brands, I bet you can find them locally as well.
Hello Elin you have treated almost all the subjects on the TR4!!!, thanks to you now I will be able to restore my TR4, the only subject that is missing is the restoration of the rear bridge thank you so much
Yet another great video! And yes, new shocks while it’s apart only makes sense. The front suspension will be perfect. Nice one Elin!
I love this channel but Rusty is the real star. He is so much like my dog.
FYI on the bearing cap if you notice the hole in the middle is threaded you thread a bolt in it tighten and it pulls off the cap.
HA HA HA Elin you can always do comedy on the side what a sense of humor.
I am surprised you havent tried to clean the front suspension its pretty bad
One of our cars (MB B-Class) had to go through the TÜV (German technical inspection) and I decided to put new shocks on the front, even though the old ones were not leaking or apparently worn out. I put Bilstein gas shocks on it and wow, it handles a lot better now. Replacing the shocks is a really good idea. Thanks for letting us see all of the things that go into a TR4 front suspension!
I heard the word calipers and got excited!
LOL, I am not doing anything about them. They seem to be in a good shape.
I always follow this procedure for tensioning wheel bearings:
Snug up the nut while rotating the disk in the opposite direction, until you feel resistance stiffen on the wrench (a bit subjective but you know it when you feel it).
Then back off the nut one flat so the split pin can go in.
Put some miles on, then check again. This is important because the felt seal will compress more with load.
Hi Elin, deffo the right thing to do changing those shocks by the looks of the spring that broke the car has suffered and I'm sure there will have been some uneven wear.
When you think about it this car has really soldiered on ... broken springs and bent pushrods, it deserves a new lease of life.
Look forward to the electronic ignition installation, I've never seen that before.
Great video even rusty wanted to see what was going on.
Good luck from Spain!!
Step by step, that TR4 is shaping up nicely! 👍
Two "observations"...
First, the bump stop on the frame is convex, dish shaped like the old thin part you cut away. Since you trimmed back a bit to find good metal to weld to, you probably compensated for this. But if someone were to weld a flat piece directly over the bracket, I estimate about 1/4 inch of upward travel would be lost, which I think would be about 1/2 inch at the wheel. With the reduced travel the car might "bottom out" on the bump stops more often.
Second, I don't know of it's still the case, but at one time the replacement felt seals behind the inner wheel bearing were coming much thicker than the original, causing a false reading of bearing play and tightness when new. I had to trim them to about half the supplied thickness. Maybe this problem has been fixed, but unless those too thick seals were trimmed it was necessary to "overtighten" with more drag than felt correct. And it was important to go back and check for nearing play a couple times after some miles test driving.
Hi Elin, I enjoyed the video. I've always installed the seal (after the bearing) in the back of the hub before putting it on the stub axle. I'd be worried that it won't seat correctly into the hub.
Another interesting Tr4 video but what about the GT6?? Every Thursday??
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼💯
Elin …
The fiber washers that you replaced have a metal side, as you mentioned, does it really matter in which direction the felt portion goes ? Asking for a friend 😊😊
Lol, the fiber goes towards the vertical link and the metal towards the bearing. I am not sure how well it seals but definitely the other way around would be worse :)
My friend redid it and appreciates you and the work you do … it is sooo helpful for my friend, he’s a visual learner and ur videos are fantastic 😊😊