EQUIPMENT YOU NEED to start perfumery in 2022
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Mentioned in this video:
Choosing perfumery raw materials: • Building your perfumer...
Choosing perfumery alcohol: • Which ALCOHOL do PERFU...
Why to never use drops for perfumery: • Why you MUST use weigh...
Scales:
High-end: bit.ly/3duZjOJ (Amazon USA: amzn.to/3w9Oub6)
Budget: bit.ly/3JTwIhY
Pipettes: bit.ly/3pCe1GB (Amazon USA: amzn.to/3C6e3ho)
Perfumery alcohol bottle: bit.ly/3PoVzLN
Sample vials with polycone liner:
Urea caps: bit.ly/3PqCZ65
Regular caps: bit.ly/3dr0r5U
Scent strips:
500 pack: bit.ly/3SQdbTH
Holders: bit.ly/3JUXgQ6
Other:
Atomizers: bit.ly/3zTEJiE
Beakers: bit.ly/3bRUE90
Funnels: bit.ly/3phylMX
Filter paper: bit.ly/3JRvFiR
Formulair app:
App website: formulair.app/
Cheapest iPad Amazon USA: amzn.to/3bUFxvz
Cheapest iPad Amazon UK: amzn.to/3poFGdC
Other perfumery software and spreadsheets:
Parfum pro: bit.ly/3PtfUQa
Perfumer's workbook: bit.ly/3QIa12x
JBParfum: www.jbparfum.com/
Spreadsheet 1: bit.ly/3C2x1Fz
Spreadsheet 2: • Perfumery Basics: Upda...
If there's something you want a link for which I missed then leave a comment and I'll add it!
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
00:59 - Raw materials (Ingredients)
01:41 - Scales
04:12 - Pipettes
07:54 - Alcohol
09:14 - Sample vials, racks & labels
12:56 - Software & Notebooks
17:11 - Scent strips & holders
20:52 - Some more helpful things
25:45 - Summary
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn
Your videos are always so helpful and informative! 🥰💖
Thank you!
Very good point about scents smelling different on different people, and something I've noticed is it can also smell different on the same person on a different day.
I used to work for this very strong scented fresh handmade cosmetic brand from the UK, and I remember that, particularly with jasmin, but with other scents as well, they didn't smell the same on my skin depending on where I was in my cycle. I am not sure it it was my skin reacting differently based on my hormone levels, or my nose picking up a certain way because of that, or both, but I think it is worth trying scents or perfumes on different days to make sure your hormonal brain is not too biased.
Very good. Also I might just add, certain ingredients such as Decatone and Triethyl Citrate. Citrate is a very useful ingredient for example certain ingredients like your pepper notes and myrrh and other resins can be quite grotty they'll gunk up a fragrance if a proper solvent isn't used. Benzyl Benzoate is generally quite good but citrate is ideal since it won't only get the job done but will add a little masculine charm to the dilution that's how you get the fine fragrance effect. Same with Decatone which is an ideal fixative in Citrus accords, gives it some radiance too. And the other is citronallal, diluted at 10% can mimic Grapefruit, in fine fragrance it represents when its added gives it a masculine sweet body odor effect and you don't want to use to many bright notes either like adding to much Grapefruit oil or Neroli absolute will make the fragrance go to bright and then you'll lose it so ingredients like citronallal can be quite useful. Good example of this effect was done in Issey Miyaki Nuit D'Issey. And yeah good video doing well keep up the good work.
Nice info - I don’t use these myself but sounds like it could be useful. Have you got any good references where I could read up on them?
@@sammacer PerfumersWorld
Thank you so much for your extremely helpful video’s!!! Much Appreciated 🙏🏽❤️👍🏽
No problem, glad you enjoy them 😊
Something else I find good for my tools is a very large cookie sheet with a raised edge. I keep my scale and aromachemicals inside this workspace. If I spill something, my table top is not damaged.
What’s a cookie sheet?
@@sammacer a rectangular metal thin pan with a 1/2” or so raised edge. Mine is like 15” x 21”. It is actually called a “sheet pan” (it’s not only for cookies, lol). But it is insurance for your surfaces.
I wanted to add to your comment on using pipettes. I’ve grown to understand that personal preference, speed and price sensitivity are the biggest factors for pipette choice. Is it environmentally friendly to use plastic, no, but it is cheaper and easier to prevent cross contamination when using plastic because if you get confused you can toss out the pipette. This also makes it faster to run through trials. On the other hand glass requires more effort because you have to clean the pipette if it’s independent of the bottle. If the glass pipette is attached to the bottle, it’s nice, but you risk potentially destroying the bulb of the pipette if something corrosive gets in there. Love the channel man keep up the good work and to all of you reading, happy perfuming!
Exactly, it’s all a trade off! May I add that glass pipettes also contaminate too so you really need to be very thorough if you want to avoid that; that means many rinses and wasting and pouring a lot of hazardous solvent down the drain. In real labs glass pipettes are treated as single use too.
Exactly, it’s all a trade off! May I add that glass pipettes also contaminate too so you really need to be very thorough if you want to avoid that; that means many rinses and wasting and pouring a lot of hazardous solvent down the drain. In real labs glass pipettes are treated as single use too.
Great video! Is it some day possible, that we can download ur app on windows or android?
great video Sam may i know your opinion regards scent and chemistry book ? the 2nd edition.. thanks
I didn’t buy the second since I have the first and I heard there isn’t that much difference - I may be wrong though
Thanks for all the info, could please do a video on how you print your labels.
Yeah maybe eventually. It’s simple though: just get an a4 sheet of printable labels and put it through your regular printer
I bought an inexpensive thermal printer. It’s portable and I can print labels as I need them. It’s been incredibly helpful.
The only thing I can’t do is print small round labels for the tops of my bottles. For those I print on A4 or A5 label sheets
Thanks!
A note on the software; I've tried to employ the other apps, and I always find myself gravitating to Formulair. You've done a fine job designing that piece of software. It's really a shame there isn't some means of Windows compatibility for it; Fortunately I have an iPad and iPhone that I can use it with; Anyone interested in perfumery should strongly consider picking an i-device or mac up just so that they can use this software to manage their data. By far it is the best software of its kind out there anywhere. It has my strong and enthusiastic endorsement.
Thanks for the kind review, I really appreciate it! It’s my favorite perfumery app too 😁
Hi Sam. All good points. But BK Scents uses glass pipettes and washes them afterwards. Not dropped bottles with integrated pipettes, but actual dedicated glass pipettes.
The problem is that you end up creating a lot of hazardous waste going down the drain, which is also not very good for the environment. So between some plastic and chemical waste, or between contaminating drinking water that will then need to be purified, you have to make a choice of what's more hazardous to the environment.
There's also the option to pay a company to dispose of any water, dishwater detergent and other solvents you use, along with any hazardous chemicals. But that can be really expensive.
Just some useful tips. Always a tradeoff.
Also, euro dropper bottles don't include any rubber seals. They're great for materials which flow easily and which you use only a few drops of. Euro dropped bottles use a plastic insert on the mouth of the bottle, and a plastic lid, and they're designed to seal based on the tightness of the two in tandem. So it works far better.
Examples of materials I'd use Euro dropper bottles for are: Essential oils, Vertofix Couer, Karanal, Cedramber, Trisamber, Fixateur 505E, Amberwood F.
Examples of materials I'd never put in a Euro dropper bottle: Labdanum absolute (or any other thicker material), undiluted Calone powder, undiluted Ambroxan crystals, Grisalva (it's just too thick, but it's on the edge of what's almost acceptable to be put into a Euro dropper bottle), Cashmeran (or any other materials which tends to crystalize easily, such as many musks).
Yep some great points here. You’re completely right about the trade offs. Glad that the euro dropper bottles work for you as well!
Firstly, great channel with incredible and very informative content, keep up the good work.
I would like to ask if anybody has any good EU based source for raw materials or kits?
Thank you!
You could try pcw, de hexerij, perfumiarz
I'm really new in the perfumery. I did not even use perfume before. But few months ago I went to a store and there is this brand new perfume and I tried the sample.
And it just clicked. Something in me suddenly got interested in perfume. I did not even have any knowledge in perfume. Like, zero knowledge.
Something about perfume just drew me in. So I decided to learn more. The more I learn, the more I want to make it as my small own business. So exactly this month, I quit my job in this big technology company (smartphone, you probably know haha). Learn everything about perfume, give myself a next few months to experiment. Even I applied to a business school abroad (already accepted!) to learn basic about business.
I just trust my gut.
And today I found your channel and I have to say WHAT AN AMAZING DISCOVERY FOR ME! Your videos are so helpful and easy to understand, especially for newbie like myself.
Will binge watching to your videos!
Fantastic, good luck on your dream, it’s similar for me, I wish you all the best!
@@sammacer ahhh thank you so much!!! I have ordered some materials from perfumersworld, just need to buy equipment especially the scale 😂
Wow! How has it been going? 😊
Hey Sam, I purchased formulair a couple of months ago and I've been using it on a regular basis, so, first of all: thanks! It's an awesome tool. But I've been wondering: is there a way, to categorize your formulas? For example into "blends", "accords", and "bases"? My formulas are getting quite messy now over time.. And something that I could make great use of: can I transform a formula into a new raw material? Right now, I am creating a new raw material for my accords, but obviously with the right percentages (also concerning IFRA limits) that would be so much better.. Cheers and thank you for your work 💜
Stoked that you’re loving Formulair! Yes, you can go onto the formula statistics (pie chart) and set your formula category there. You can split a raw material into the components of an existing formula by making a placeholder formula entry, right clicking / long pressing and pressing “replace with formula”. Hope this helps!
@@sammacer wow. You really have it well thought out, and it shows! Helps a great deal, especially now that my perfuming worflow improved in tempo, I have a tool that keeps up with the speed. Thanks for your support!
Very nice 👍👍👍👍
I use those bottles with a dropper top but I don't keep anything in it just so each of my oils has it own dropper I keep my dilution oils in another little bottle . It does use alot alot of space but it works for me.
What a fantastic idea! Never thought of that one…
So you mean you have 2 bottles per material ? One full of the material with a regular top and one empty with a dropper ? I was thinking of dedicating a glass dropper per material and "storing" them each in a glass becher or something labelled with the material name on it so you don't switch them up, but your idea seems way easier to maintain.
@@Titemaud yes I have 2ml bottles with dilute oils but my dropper bottles have a little bit of oils so I can smell as I create
Hi Sam am confuse about my scale and math was my most difficult subject 😢 so I have a sf-400 scale and on mode G am only showing 0.00 I would have to put on T mode so it can show 0.000 so for example if I want to add 300 ml on g mode is it 0.30 ? And if I use mode T on scale would it be accurate Like 0.300 ? am basically trying to measure by 1000
When i try to buy weighing scale i saw two different scales of 1mg
One is with load cell technology and other one is with magnetic base technology which is more accurate than load cell but magnet base cost me arround 350$ and load cell cost me arround 150-200$
What is your opinion on this?
Should i go for magnet base or load cell base
Both are 1mg scales
Hey there friend, do you still recommend Pell Wall products??? Thank You for your help ❤️
Yes!!
This was very informative. Just what I was looking for
Fantastic
May I ask about more info on bottle caps (for longish term storage)? I'm trying to navigate through what's on the market, but boy does it get overwhelming...
1. How about aluminium caps?
2. Is polycone the same as polyethylene cone?
3. Any reasonable alternatives to the polycone liners (perhaps PTFE)?
Thanks a lot, great video!
Aluminium caps seem to me mostly fine but may occasionally leak. I use the for samples and polycone for long term storage of dilutions. Polyethylene cone - I’m not sure since everyone uses their own terminology; look at the pictures it’s your best bet. And no, as far as I know the poly one liners are gold standard
@@sammacer Many thanks!
Need your app for android
Hi Sam!
Do you think the raw materials on your website will back in stock? They’re sold out.
I'm in the process of releasing a new starter kit - it should be ready in a month or so :)
How do you clean bottles before filling? I rinse mine with alcohol but can often spot the odd dust particle which is annoying, is there a better way to do it.
It’s not easy at all small scale, to truly remove it all you’d want industrial equipment
There are pipettes that can accurately dispense micro liter accuracy volumes. Do all perfumers works only with mass or are there some that use scientific pipettes?
Professionals always use mass. Volume is never reliable since volumes don’t necessarily add up to the sum of the original when any two things are mixed together.
Dear Sam
I have a big collection of aromachemicals and I smell them almost every day. Is it dangerous and unhealthy to smell them all the time? I am addicted to dhm, several musk's ,amberwood style like amber Xtreme etc. I want your experience if there is no problem to inhale and breath them and the only problem with health will be when you apply them on your skin
Thank you in advance
John
As far as I’m aware there shouldn’t be a problem, but I’m not an expert in that area…
Why not used essential oil or aroma chemicals from firmenich, givaudan etc ?
They are great ones to use
Which weighing machine should i go for?
Im looking to produce small scale commercially if im successfull in making
Should i opt 0.001 or 0.01 accuracy weighing machine?
As stated, I prefer 0.001g
I'm curious why you don't use bottles for raw material dilutions that have a pipette attached to the cap? For me it seemed an obvious choice - one permanent glass pipette for one raw material dilution. 🤔
Unfortunately over years, usually the rubber dissolves and the raw materials escape through it, meaning your dilutions change their percentage and the raw material can become contaminated
I think the USA Amazon link redirects to the Lux website and not Amazon. Maybe I’m wrong about that and it’s just not working for me?
Must be my mistake - which link is it?
@@sammacer Under “Scales.” The high end portion that says “(Amazon USA).” That link doesn’t go to Amazon, I believe it goes to the USB scale on Lux Terra.
@@Stefiebaby11 Fixed it!
@@sammacer Thank you 🥲
👏
Your alright Sam why shouldn’t you promote your app your a good lad keep it up bud
Cheers mate - yeah I need to promote it to keep the channel / business going but I also truly believe it’s the best thing for the job at the moment!
@@sammacer 👊🏾🍻
I sow one guy put a sticker in the pippet and reuse it only for the same material. I think it is a good idea
I don’t think it’s a good idea since raw material residue on pipettes can go off quicker from the oxygen in the air, contaminating you raw materials the second time. Also the pipettes can cross contaminate through the air sine raw materials are volatile.
pot of pipettes???
say that 10 times fast lol
Lol
what about using stainless steel syringes? I've seen those used.