Chae-hyun Seo: Building the Perfect Lead Climber
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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New mic, same overdramatic vocabulary. Chaeyun is pretty great at lead climbing. Pls no overreacting over the title or thumbnail, I have sponsors now and no one watched my Natalia video.
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"Free Range" by Mona Wonderlick - bit.ly/youtube-monawonderlick
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Paranoia - Prod. Riddiman x oldboyy / prodriddiman
Editing by Culann O'Brien / imculann
Seo was such a great competitor to watch at the Olympics. Her spirit is so easy to get behind and I can't wait to see more of her in the future!
1:23 That dropknee transition is absolutely insane
I audibly gasped
Yes, very excited to watch this! Seo Chaehyun was one of my favorites at the Olympics.
May I make a suggestion for a future video? The Stamina or Determination of Ai Mori. I just discovered her and there are so many interesting examples of her making big mistakes that would tire out other climbers but she just keeps on going. Tomoa’s not known for his endurance, but they went head to head on his channel and she smoked him at an endurance competition. If she can master jumping (a huge weak spot for such a short climber), than she’ll be formidable at the 2024 Olympics.
I have watched a ton of your videos...i have to say, u have a very good voice and very addictive. Plus i love your climbing content, very informative for a noob such as myself.
I'm really curious to see what the future will be like for both her and Ai Mori! They're the same age and both seem to be in a similar niche and I enjoy watching both climb, though Mori is quite a bit shorter. I wonder what they'll look like in a few years, or what it'll look like when they compete against each other!
I love watching Ai Mori on boulders, particularly slabs. She makes so many interesting micro-adjustments trying to overcome her short height.
Ai mori is so fun to watch, i really cant wait to see her in more international comps
Seo simply has more power and therefore more capacity to move rapidly, extending her endurance to the new age of lead competitions where basically no one times out or even come relatively close. Efficient moves are sometimes the most direct, and in onsight climbing this is more often true especially in competitions where the route is meant to be onsighted by someone and there is a recovery stance exactly where the pump might overtake and there is a pace to be found.
She has the rest, but if Kim simply developed the power to move between holds more rapidly we would never see her tire.
As well, if Laura got Janjas willingness to leap she would be far more unbeatable. Her beta breaks are ridiculous, and her tolerance against acidosis is insane.
Love all your vids❤️
What would you say the difference between Laura rogora and seo?
Great question! Honestly, right now I think it's that Seo is just better at route reading, particularly on comp routes. I think we underestimate how hard it is to make the shift from redpointing outdoor sport routes to onsighting them indoors (probably the reason the Stefano has struggled in competitions).
Laura's obviously insanely strong, but she just doesn't climb as efficiently and her footwork isn't as smooth. She definitely has time to improve on these though!
"Doesn't have a lot of muscle weighing her down"
Not your most eloquent narration to date. I guess Ondra was wrong to gain all of that muscle to send Silence.
Comp lead routes are extremely pumpy relative to Silence.
Silence is basically a bunch of extremely hard boulders separated by bomber kneebars, almost nothing like a lead comp route. Trying to do a V15 boulder problem after several minutes in a knee bar requires more power (and sometimes more muscle) than 50 moderate moves with no rests on an onsight attempt, which rewards a lighter weight climber (sometimes to a fault).
@@zennydooI'll concede that my analogy isn't a perfect comparison. I know you're right in that respect.
Regardless, it's a bit of a tone deaf comment within the video, especially given the current state of eating disorder prevalence in climbing, and the conversation within the community.
Is the video narration objectively wrong,? Not entirely. Could it be more sensitive to community issues? Probably.
@@RFrecka completely agree with you. For anyone reading this, please check out the documentary "Light" about disordered eating in climbing.
"Little-known" 😂
Dude your content is great and I'm happy you're getting sponsorships but you gotta quit it with these Adam Ragusea-style sponsor jumpscares in the middle of the video. It really ruins the flow of the story you're trying to tell.
Here I was about to compliment such a smooth transition
Yeah, smoothly transitioning to the sponsor was a fun novelty a couple years ago but at the end of the day it's just another add and pretending it's relevant to the video by linking your content to the add is jut getting annoying at this point.
@@motherlove8366 well its a good things its not about you and its so he can make profits off his efforts :D
Counterpoint it’s good he’s making some money so he doesn’t have to stop making videos
@@petersongoodwyn7396 nobody said otherwise, we’re all glad he’s getting sponsorships
What is this ai mori erasure?!
Laura rogora having raw power? More like raw lightness (read eating disorder).
I always feel SUPER uncomfortable watching her climb!!
@callmeaish my comment is not the unkindness, the lack of help she has been given is the unkindness. Also the internet is judgmental, that's how it is and always will be. In my mind, cutting weight so heavily is an unfair advantage and she should not be competing, at the cost of her health, and the health of anyone who tries to replicate her. Get heavier and get stronger, set a good example. A similar but opposite example is judging PED users who don't admit to it, even if it's painfully obvious, and they typically aren't allowed to compete.
Laura is thin but still it’s a bit too much to jump to eating disorder from her image
You guys should just shut up about Laura.
She DOES have raw power. She IS climbing strong for YEARS (something that would NOT be possible for someone with an REAL unhealthy eating disorder).
She HAS a network of friends and coaches who DO help her with any problems she might be facing. An eating disorder seems not to be apparent. End of story.
What you guys do is nothing else but body shaming.
Calling names like that is just so f*ckn annoying.
@@stuck_in_a_fishbowlagain652 I always feel SUPER uncomfortable reading stupid comments like yours...
as soon as there is a new vid from Ascentionism...I click and I don't remember being disappointed at any point
greaet analytical vid...I hope you can co-comment an event with matt (groom) at some point, it would be amazing having you on the stream with the incredible background knowledge about all climbers from your breakdowns
This video may have not aged very well and I would mostly disagree with it.
Compared to other lead competitors, her body is just average. Average size. Average muscles. Average flexibility. Average resistance. Average explosivity.
Well... Let's not say average. Let's say slightly above average in most of these categories. She is a very complete climber.
By the way, in the past years, she gained some muscles for bouldering, and that might have impacted her capacity to stay on the lead wall.
Chaehyun does not have the perfect body for lead climbing: she is too heavy from being too tall, too muscular and from not looking anorexic.
What she does have is a perfect brain for lead climbing (and to an extent bouldering), by that I mean the way she is using her body.
Her weapon is not her body but her technique which is the best on the circuit in my opinion.
According to the results on lead routes lately, the perfect body for lead today is more like Ai Mori or Laura Rogora. Now, imagine one of these two with the technique level of Chaehyun.
I’ve never regretted watching anyone of your videos!
Janja Garnbret (164cm) is "tall"?