How to use the Trend Fast Track Sharpening system: Finally a review and DEMO from a long-time owner!
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- Опубликовано: 4 янв 2018
- This video is the BrainfizzUK tool review and demo of the Trend Fast Track sharpening system. A sharpening Jig for woodworking chisels and hand plane irons and blades for perfect 25 and 30 degree bevels on your woodworking tools. I have owned this Jig for about 8 years and although its not my goto everyday jig, it is great! Very handy and value for money - providing you know a little bit about it, and are willing to invest a little time into your tools! All comments and suggestions welcomed!
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Great demo mate. Many thanks. I just watched this and now doing all mine. I got this kit a few weeks ago but didn't try it. You made it easy. Cheers pal.
As a retired carpenter, I purchased this item after I could no longer hold & maintain the honing angles freehand that I'd done for years. Just be patient, because once the angle is set it's just a matter of giving the edge a rub with a fine stone whenever the tool is getting dull.
Great (from a users point) review. Thanks. I have a tendency to fall for gadgets such as this but now I know I will stick with the stuff I already have.
Sincerely, Bernhard
Proper quality reviews, every time. Think some of your banter might fly over certain peoples heads 🤣
Cheer dude I’m a sparky and need a sharp chisel bought this as I keep a decent set of chisels and wanted to keep them sharp never quite knew how to work it glad you made this vid
There’s actually a MK2 version of this available now as well, which is greatly improved (or an upgrade kit to add t he MK2 additions on the original version), both well worth a look if you are thinking about it still.
Great demo and review mate! Always wondered if these were any good. Like you said it seems to be ideal for quick touch ups on the fly 👌
Thanks Joe. This works great for site carpentry, and if you aren’t worried about trying to shave with your chisels. Quick is the name of the game here, not bragging rights for how shinny you can make the surface!😂😂
Great video - many thanks
thanks for watching - let me know if you have any questions, or if anything is unclear! glad it was of use!
Richard,
thank you for taking the time to review the Trend sharpening jig.
Just a thought; why don't you use your trusty drill and countersink to, er, upgrade your jig to the all new, fix with a screw, model.
Lol! Honestly I’ve never needed to, it’s either away in a tool bag in the van out out and about with me! Portability is more to my liking with this!
Great review, Richard. I agree that it would be good for on site touch up, but any major sharpening would be a bit slow.
Yeah, that’s exactly what it works best for! Too many people think they need 10,000 grit sharpening for all their chisels. Sharp is sharp enough for most work - time is money after all!
Very helpful
Glad I could be of use. I have the “Mk2 version of this now too, and it’s even easier to use and more comfortable 👌
Convinced me to give it a miss but great reviewer. Thorough.
Fair enough! the Mk2 version is even better.
I like you, find getting a basic rough angle to start. Even with the roughing stone. I use a piece of 80 grit paper cut to the width of the stone and wrap it around a stone and use that to make a start.
The long bit is definitely getting the tool angle to the jig…. Once you have it it’s a doddle!
I could build the worlds best honing guide in less time then this thing takes to sharpen
Well aren’t you just a massive hero……..you think everyone of the people who watched this video could and would that too then???
Sorry if it should be obvious but can you show us the other method you use with the stone and the honing guide with angle template?
I deliberately didn’t include my normal daily sharpening methods as it’s using a different set up, but keep an eye out for a future video as I do plan to do one on sharpening with the flat diamond plates..👍
Great demo. Cool tool. A shame there is no such thing in my local hardware stores...:/
Thanks Red! Pretty sure Trend are available across Europe though if you wanted to find one, just make sure you get the roughing stone as well though!
Great video. Just bought one. I have been able to file one chisel down using the 250 prep stone but it did take a good two hours. I think a 100 grit will be a purchase for the future.
Definitely get the 100 stone!!! if you can, try and do the bulk (certainly if you wanna do all your chisels), the first time and a grinder.... once you have all your chisels set to this jig though, they'll all be done in a couple of minutes!
New ones have 27.5 and 32.5 angles as well
@@stephenmiller8620 yes, the MkII version has several additions added from the lessons learned with this tool.
The stones are set onto a bevel so one way gives you the original angle 25/30, flip it round and you get the added 2.5°.
You can use those stones on the old MK1 jig too.
He comprado recientemente este afilador pero veo que tiene excesiva holgura en la guía, ¿quizá por eso no me hace el chaflán paralelo? si no es por la holgura ¿alguien me podría indicar a que es debido? Gracias
la holgura en el paralelo es deliberada, debe inclinar su deslizamiento hacia el bisel de la herramienta (izquierda o derecha).
Si está demasiado apretado, las piezas se pegarán y no se deslizarán suavemente.
Lubrique también las piezas con el líquido de lapeado.
How durable are the honing plates?
Never bad an issue… they’ll need replaced after a while I guess, as the jig mean it’s using the same location, but if they wear they can be used as well for router bits and forstner bits too
What is the point if you can’t use it straight from the packet?
You can use it straight out of the packet! but as with any jig, tool or setup, it may need a bit of fettling, to get the best out of it. thats not a bad thing. using the 100 grit roughing stone simple speeds up the prices - particularly when the bevel angles of your tools have been changed over time, or not set exactly at the factory.
A little bird told me that Trend are launching spring 2018 - 2.5 deg tapered accessory stones for the Fasttrack. You'll then be able to Fasttrack sharpen at 32.5 deg - 30 deg - 27.5 deg - 25deg and 22.5 deg. But its a secret so don't tell anybody...
I'm not aware of anything like this, I know American version suggests "lifting the sliding carriage to provide a micro bevel angle".
G’day mate, last time I sharpened my chisels I used the uh umm 🤔😳😳😳, actually I’ve never sharpened one but I would use a strop mate 😳, what’s a strop 😬, sorry mate I’ll shut up, carry on & work hard 👍👍👍👍
Hahahahaha!!! It’ll be sharp enough to open a paint tin and stir it! 😂😂😂😂😂
You’re actually not grinding a 25 degree bevel with the 100 grit stone. In the new system, the way you insert the stone either subtracts or adds 2.5 degree to the angle of the device. So you’re either making a 27.5 or a 22.5 degree angle. That’s probably also why it’s taking so long.
Firstly, this is t old Mk 1 version, not the newer mk2 with the tapered stones…
Secondly, the newer version isn’t set at the same as the old. The jig is set to different angles so the taper end stones can either add or subtract 2.5degrees depending which way around you set the stones.
So you can have 4 different angle: 22.5, 25, 27.5 and 30 degrees 👌
I've seen these and always though they looked good to have in the van for on the job sharpening. always makes me laugh when people say you need to go to ten thousand grit or what ever. most of them will never have even used any tools. the reality is most site lads have never used or even seen a really sharp chisel, and just use a belt sander but it works for them.
The jig works great for site touch ups, but it takes a fair bit of use to get your chisel angles to work.....the more you use it the better it works though.
@ 9:49 All that black on the sliding surfaces of the aluminum baseplate is most definitely NOT metal removed from the chisel. Look at the surface farthest away from the grinding interface, it's shows this black residue suspended in lapping fluid (which was used to lubricate the interface instead of oil as recommended). There's simply no way that particles from the chisel have magically migrated across the entire width of the tool, past several mating and non-mating surfaces. That direction is perpendicular to the sliding motion used to grind and there is nothing moving particles in that direction. The black residue is aluminum particles suspended in the lubricating film. Aluminum is a much softer metal than steel and sliding two pieces of aluminum (even if one is anodized) will easily produce fine particles from a raw aluminum surface.
What you also have to take into consideration is that the lapping fluid is sprayed onto both sides of the top section of the jig and buy it’s very runny properties quickly covers all surfaces, and continues to flow downwards towards the centre section of the jig, carrying with it the particles removed from the tooling.
The jig is made from aluminium, it is not made from steel.
(This is why as I stayed in the video, I had to glue the magnet to the black upper section of the jig).
Also what you are watching is about an hours worth of work in several chisels and plane irons that I worked on during the production of the video,
You will further note that my hands are also dirty from so much sharpening and handling of the jig.
Should you physically use this jig at any time, you’ll see more clearly what I mean.
It’s a good jig, it works, it’s not my favourite as I say right at the beginning, and I primarily use other means (as discussed), but for some reason there is a great deal of hate and dislike for this equipment - mainly from misuse, misunderstanding, unreasonable expectations.
You get the same results with compressor oil, if you’re an idiot like myself that will just use anything. So yes it is metal/slurry from the chisel
Sorry. Had to stop watching as so much was out of focus and it became too frustrating
fair enough.
I know some love these but for me the whole principle is wrong, the scratch pattern is going to lead to a weak edge, especially if you stop at a low grit.
I agree with the logic of the scratch marks going across the face, but honestly I don’t think that it really makes a difference under these circumstances. As it’s for quick sharpening during use, and honestly once the angle is set it’s 30seconds and you’re back to work again. The roughing stone is only for setting the angle, once you’re there you can start re sharpening at 450 grit no problem unless you trash the tip on a nail/screw... which can easily happen when cutting in latch plates in a door frame.
That's fair enough. I would imagine it's the sort of setup best used on chisels for rough carpentry work anyway, they will blunt quickly no matter what sharpening method is used so best to have something fast and repeatable.
It obviously works well for you as evidenced by how well used it looks lol.
rough or fine fine work.... just means your sharp and back working faster... I'm not into using loads of water stones and going to 1,000,000 grit plus..... if it feels sharp, it is sharp enough - using it makes it blunt, sharpening it keeps me working!
The 100 stone wont do a great job at regrinding the whole edge either.
I always found it adequate for the task, which method do you use?