Only now getting to the hinge rebuilding process. Once again, Barry, you've saved me a lot of time and more than a little profanity, I reckon. Based on this video, I made a positioning jig to hold the hinges while I drifted the pins out, and made one of your slide hammers to use with the flame wrench. With your pin shaving insights, the rebuilds were a 'piece of cake'. Can't thank you enough. (Haven't commented in a while, been too busy working on her. Without your videos, this is one '66 coupe that would have been at the crusher's yard two years ago. Now she's whole and solid as a rock. Starting to put body panels on for fitting; more hours to spend at 'Jo Daddy University', but loving every minute of it! Thanks.
That was a great video "Mustang door hinges rebuild". I think I will be tackling rebuilding my hinges on my 1966 coupe. I will need to get some calipers to measure dia. of the new pins though. Thanks
When you was cleaning up the flashing and edges of the upper hinge, I couldn’t help as to wonder about the guy who held it with tongs as a 20 ton press come down and hit #1, he flipped it over into die #2, stepped on the trip bar and hit it again. If he was still around, he may tell you the number of times it was struck to produce that one part. Yes, a little rough around the edges but only one of 40 million more to make. We take our rebuilding skills with pride to make a nice tight hinge that allows us to adjust and enjoy a repeatable door closing. Body lines match, solid sound, nice fit and perfect close. Because of your efforts, re-using a 44 year old part, possibly 45 years old as used over several years. This is keeping as much as the OEM parts on the car as possible. It’s like, I will fix the rusted OEM part keeping that part in service. Complex lower with spring, a lot to do and you showed everyone how to get it done. 4 pound hammer forged hinge compared to the new stamped steel hinge. A 2.6 pound lighter & cheaper part that no one will rebuild in 44 years. Just buy a new one and toss the OEM part. Blessing for your work, effort and step-by-step (Keep In Order) instructions. Thanks. At 62, recovering from my 4th lumbar “Total Replacement” but proud of years of diagnosing the root cause, not having a come-back for over 3+ years at the dealer, fixing them right the first time. It’s not about me, but the guy fixing his own car and guys who do this for a living. This increases the respect an automotive technician deserves. For that, I thank you and enjoy the clear videos (Work Themselves), that I have done on other brands but not Fords. Thanks! Retired - ASE Master Tech since 1978
Would have liked to see the annular void between the bushes packed with grease before assembling with the pins. I think I might have been inclined to paint the hinges body colour prior to assembly, masking the internal bore also. Great job though and shows how these cars were built to last and be rebuilt. Shows some great techniques.
need to get you a harbor freight shop press. i sheered off the tool steel pin on my vise using it as a press. lesson learned the hard way to use the right tool for the job.. unless you need something hammered in.. then anything's a hammer.. :P
@@JoDaddysGarage yup. backup is always good. mine was an industrial that my grandpa gave to me. luckily my roommate at the time was a machinist, so he made me a new pin. i have a wilton as well, but my big one now is a palmgren 6". nice work on those hinges though. 67-68's are waaay easier lol.
Mustang hinges are always a challenge. Nice job Jo. I used the vice for everything and never thought about using a socket. Good idea. That spring though was a pain without one of those clamps. LOL
Awesome video. We bought original 66 doors to replace the rusty doors on my 65 and fun fact the 65 and 66 hinges are slightly different. My 65 are square on the ends opposed to the tapered ends like on the 66 and the bolts are different sizes. We are keeping the 65 hinges on.
@@JoDaddysGarage Being a metal machinist by trade I tend to work with "interference" fits, "slide"fits and "running" fits on a daily basis.🙂 The trade is also handy if you like to work on and modify cars 😉😃 Once again,you are doing fantastic work and I really enjoy watching your Vids😃
Very good video on hinges applicable to other makes as well....... I've done my charger hinges in a similar way. But I usually use my air hammer and my own turned down drifts to get pins out on the vise. Now if I go to the trouble of doing hinges I like to add grease zerks to provide lubrication to bushings. But I know some people like it stay original but I'm after longevity and I hate Mr rust.
Your video was very helpful the only problem is on my hinge the pin with the roller is snapped off .what is a good way to get it out? Thanks again for the videos !
Center drill it. Start small and step up size. Lack of material will reduce stress. You can also heat it up with a butane torch to break the rust loose.
Thanks! I was thinking the same but hoped there would be an easier way. But if that’s the way you would do it ,that’s the way I’m doing it .Thanks again your videos are the best.
Just pickin on you. You are very safety conscious, which I agree with. I tend to wear gloves whenever heat is involved. I have been known to forget a touch something I shouldn't have. :-)
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I spent an hour unsuccessfully trying to get pins out. Then found this video and tried your socket idea. Out in minutes! Thanks very much😀
I'm amazed they even setup tooling just to get it wrong, over and over.
Only now getting to the hinge rebuilding process. Once again, Barry, you've saved me a lot of time and more than a little profanity, I reckon. Based on this video, I made a positioning jig to hold the hinges while I drifted the pins out, and made one of your slide hammers to use with the flame wrench. With your pin shaving insights, the rebuilds were a 'piece of cake'. Can't thank you enough. (Haven't commented in a while, been too busy working on her. Without your videos, this is one '66 coupe that would have been at the crusher's yard two years ago. Now she's whole and solid as a rock. Starting to put body panels on for fitting; more hours to spend at 'Jo Daddy University', but loving every minute of it! Thanks.
thanks for admitting to, and showing your mistake. a great learning lesson.
That was a great video "Mustang door hinges rebuild". I think I will be tackling rebuilding my hinges on my 1966 coupe. I will need to get some calipers to measure dia. of the new pins though. Thanks
That arm is the stoper for the door
Slide hammer vice grip = genius!
Secret weapon.
This video is a real testament to the toughness of that Wilton vise!
Great Instructions !
When you was cleaning up the flashing and edges of the upper hinge, I couldn’t help as to wonder about the guy who held it with tongs as a 20 ton press come down and hit #1, he flipped it over into die #2, stepped on the trip bar and hit it again. If he was still around, he may tell you the number of times it was struck to produce that one part. Yes, a little rough around the edges but only one of 40 million more to make.
We take our rebuilding skills with pride to make a nice tight hinge that allows us to adjust and enjoy a repeatable door closing. Body lines match, solid sound, nice fit and perfect close. Because of your efforts, re-using a 44 year old part, possibly 45 years old as used over several years. This is keeping as much as the OEM parts on the car as possible.
It’s like, I will fix the rusted OEM part keeping that part in service. Complex lower with spring, a lot to do and you showed everyone how to get it done. 4 pound hammer forged hinge compared to the new stamped steel hinge. A 2.6 pound lighter & cheaper part that no one will rebuild in 44 years. Just buy a new one and toss the OEM part. Blessing for your work, effort and step-by-step (Keep In Order) instructions. Thanks. At 62, recovering from my 4th lumbar “Total Replacement” but proud of years of diagnosing the root cause, not having a come-back for over 3+ years at the dealer, fixing them right the first time. It’s not about me, but the guy fixing his own car and guys who do this for a living. This increases the respect an automotive technician deserves. For that, I thank you and enjoy the clear videos (Work Themselves), that I have done on other brands but not Fords. Thanks!
Retired - ASE Master Tech since 1978
Thanks for the comment. I often think about the men and women that worked to put these and many other cars and trucks together.
Would have liked to see the annular void between the bushes packed with grease before assembling with the pins. I think I might have been inclined to paint the hinges body colour prior to assembly, masking the internal bore also. Great job though and shows how these cars were built to last and be rebuilt. Shows some great techniques.
Nice to see you back on brooklyn pony
Great video I had a bad experience with pipe on the vice handel. I gess yoy have to think more when picking the length of the pipe !!!
Another great video, nice work 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for making this video. I would have been lost for awhile trying to figure this out on my own.
You're awesome!
Hay Jo Daddy Garage, I think all aftermarket parts should come with a disclosure. “Close but no Cigar”
need to get you a harbor freight shop press. i sheered off the tool steel pin on my vise using it as a press. lesson learned the hard way to use the right tool for the job.. unless you need something hammered in.. then anything's a hammer.. :P
Maybe when I get a bigger shop... It's a good thing I have an industrial vice... And a backup vice.
@@JoDaddysGarage yup. backup is always good. mine was an industrial that my grandpa gave to me. luckily my roommate at the time was a machinist, so he made me a new pin. i have a wilton as well, but my big one now is a palmgren 6". nice work on those hinges though. 67-68's are waaay easier lol.
Mustang hinges are always a challenge. Nice job Jo. I used the vice for everything and never thought about using a socket. Good idea. That spring though was a pain without one of those clamps. LOL
This is why I like watching you work, good job
Awesome video. We bought original 66 doors to replace the rusty doors on my 65 and fun fact the 65 and 66 hinges are slightly different. My 65 are square on the ends opposed to the tapered ends like on the 66 and the bolts are different sizes. We are keeping the 65 hinges on.
Would a little dab of grease on the bushings and roller be helpful for longevity during the use? Enjoy all your helpful videos.
Yes.
Interference fit is the word you were looking for ;) and i feel strangely satisfied after watching your vid mate :)
That's the word. Sometimes words escape me.
@@JoDaddysGarage Being a metal machinist by trade I tend to work with "interference" fits, "slide"fits and "running" fits on a daily basis.🙂 The trade is also handy if you like to work on and modify cars 😉😃
Once again,you are doing fantastic
work and I really enjoy watching your Vids😃
As an Aircraft Mechanic by trade, I know what you mean. Thanks for the comment.
Berry I've gotta replace the door pins and you're video showed how to get it done thumbs up.
Great information, thanks for all the advice you share. I try never to miss a show.
It can not be more complete👍👍👍👍
awesome video
Another great video.
Very good video on hinges applicable to other makes as well....... I've done my charger hinges in a similar way. But I usually use my air hammer and my own turned down drifts to get pins out on the vise. Now if I go to the trouble of doing hinges I like to add grease zerks to provide lubrication to bushings. But I know some people like it stay original but I'm after longevity and I hate Mr rust.
Excellent work Thanks much
Another great vid. I use a palm nailer to punch things out or loose .
THANK YOU...for sharing. A+ Very much enjoyed.
It’s definitely cheaper and less stressful to have Barry work out all the kinks before I have to use my entire Rolodex of swear words.
lol
0
instablaster
Fantastic video!
Great video!
hi very well dun .
free-mason !
Your video was very helpful the only problem is on my hinge the pin with the roller is snapped off .what is a good way to get it out? Thanks again for the videos !
Center drill it. Start small and step up size. Lack of material will reduce stress. You can also heat it up with a butane torch to break the rust loose.
Thanks! I was thinking the same but hoped there would be an easier way. But if that’s the way you would do it ,that’s the way I’m doing it .Thanks again your videos are the best.
Great video, I will have to make one of those vise grip sliding hammers that you had. Awesome tool!
if you had to do it over again would you have put the old swing arm back in ?
Don't think so. I think the new one will be fine.
Thanks for all the info. Where were your gloves when you were heating that hinge?
Gloves? I'm heating the hinge, not carrying it around....
Just pickin on you. You are very safety conscious, which I agree with. I tend to wear gloves whenever heat is involved. I have been known to forget a touch something I shouldn't have. :-)
have you tried NPD I am putting a 66 back together and have got a lot of parts from them
I have not. At least not for Mustangs.
A little heat on the hinge straps would have made the job easier
Would soaking in evaporust help free them up?
Very likely.
Hi Barry, why dont you use a press.
I don't have one. I'd say most people don't have one, and this helps show other ways to do it. One day I'll have a press.
Where you get diamond cut off wheel?
Bad Boy Tools. I may have a link on my amazon page.
What paint did you use to paint the bolts
I just used a primer. They'll get top coated when it's painted.
You need a cheap press.
Rule #1 aftermarket parts do not fit like original parts. rule #2 you need HF 20 ton shop press.