I'm sorry, but I believe you have things wrong. The rubber gasket at the top of filter is the anti-drain back valve. The bypass valve is at the bottom of the filter. Keep up the good work. I enjoy your video's very much.
I'm an old guy, wrenching since the early 1960s. I started watch your video because I'm amazed how difficult the engineers have made doing a repair and how poorly the vehicles are made. I quit doing cars and gas engines when the EPA got involved. Now only marine diesels and my own vehicle - diesel PU. I did a lot of racing with small block chevys, mostly sprints or similar. Before the filter cutters came out, I used a large pipe cutter, works the same but more awkward. I've always been big on maintaining clean oil and used bypass filters on everything of mine. Now I use a stand alone centrifuge. On maintained marine engines, my engines and people that followed my lead usually got double the hours between overhauls. On a commercial boat, that means spending about $30G+ about half as often. With clean oil, many of the small problems just don't happen. Even the valve lash will stay the same long past the recommended interval. When you finally do overhaul, there's no sludge in the pan and the oil galleries are clean. Cranks stay standard and things like oil pumps will last through several overhaul cycles. Now I'm retired, live on a big boat, centrifuge my oil every 50-100 hours and test once a year. The diesel oil comes out almost clear and stays semi-transparent.
I noticed that when the filter spring is pushing the filter itself up, it distorters the otherwise "straight" nature of the filter ribs. Comparing your small and large filters (all things equal) shows a near new condition, whereas the "overused" filter (too many miles between changes) is obviously crushed. Thanks for the detailed diligence in your explanation. I have learned something today. You're the best!
Next time you want to use an additive or anybody use an additive, about a week before you do an oil change put a half a quart to a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine, or even transmission fluid. Running for that week, and then change the oil while the engine is still hot if possible. The Marvel Mystery Oil I have seen clear stuck lifters in less time than it takes to shut the hood after adding it to the engine. It is high in phosphorus which is a very effective cleaning agent. It has been bottled since 1923 for a very good reason. It also works great if you add it to your fuel tank, especially since in 2005 they removed much of the sulfur from gasoline which was the lubricating agent for all of your fuel system. So about once a month about 6 or 8 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel actually is very good for your fuel system.
Yea, I did that and my oil is turning dark brown real quick. The Marvel Mystery Oil is doing it’s job quite well and I’m changing the oil in my truck next week.
My dad used to run a quart of ATF through the carburetor about every other tune-up. Smoked up the whole neighborhood but that engine would probably/maybe still be running if I still had it. 😢🤓🍻 PS. It was a 1971 Ford Torino station wagon with a 351 Cleveland. Carbureted with point type ignition. Around 1985 when my dad donated it to the High School for shop class it would still bark tires in all 3 gears. We drove cross country CA-SC in it once and up and down the east coast FL-ME at least once yearly. I loved that car. 😢🤓🍻
Wow! That Car Quest filter really filtered out a lot of gunk and gook! That shows it was really doing its job. Goes to show you should always replace the filter with an oil change. I don't understand why some owner's manuals state to replace the filter every other oil change (like on my Honda CB1100 motorcycle). I replace that filter every time. And am happy to pay the $5 to $7 for a new one.
Pretty sure prior owners neglecting oil changes cased these issues. No way that filter should should look like that after 4000 miles. I change every 8000 with synthetic and never saw any sludge in the filter and filter was never distorted. Agree about oil treatments, useless snake oil
Spent 3 hours wrenching on the 04 Ford today. Had a few beers, grilled some footlong dogs on the grill and now ending the day with Kenny cutting open old oil filters. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday 🙂
Hi Kenny! Look into getting the tall filters. I used to get those for my Blazer instead of using the shorter filters. You were reading my mind when you said the next change will be 1500 miles. I was guessing 2000 miles and a tall filter.
You read my mind about getting a taller filter. More filter area is always better as long it doesn't get in the way of anything else, or hang so low that a rock can hit it.
Great upload Kenny!! I hope you don't have any clogged oil passages from all that crud. Many old time mechanics always said, 1. change your oil and filter every 5K and if you buy a car with sludge, just change the oil often to slowly remove that sludge. NEVER use "Engine Flushes" or you will break stuff loose and block oil galleys /passages.
Another great episode of fantastic content. I appreciate you taking the time to teach people about what is going on with their vehicles. Don't worry about the negative comments about terminology or the exact details. You are doing a great service for people.
Right after I added a 20-ton hydraulic press to my DIY shop, I welded up a section of pipe and a base plate of 1/4" steel. The bottom of the pipe/plate has standoffs. I also welded up a stack of 1/4" circular pieces for a ram piston. Since I completed that little project, I no longer have to run my used oil filters to a disposal site. I crush them in the press squeezing out all the oil making a dense metal puck the width of a waffle. The puck then just goes in the regular recycling bin for weekly residential refuse pickup.
For people wanting to know more about oil filters,a youtuber called Ford Boss Me has done several videos on cutting open different filters to see what's inside them.
Different flow rates for those two sizes of oil filter... The filter size may appear to be less susceptible to clogging when larger, but that may not represent the amount of flow any particular area of filter would get in the actual engine it's paired with. Also, there are different oil well volumes being filtered. Thanks
It is amazing the difference it makes when you maintain your vehicles well vs. not. I change my oil every 5K miles (Mobil 1) and my engines are still clean at 150,000 miles. Makes a big difference.
Round seal by the input is the inlet anti drainback valve, the bypass valve is the little one in the middle of the bottom can, which will open eventually on enough pressure. The spring is integrated into the base along with the metal on metal stamped valve, which will always bypass a tiny amount of oil.
Yeah, not sure what Kenny is on about, every other video on oil filters says that a plugged up filter opens the little valve in the bottom of the filter, nothing about the spring moving. They say the spring is to keep the anti drain back valve closed when the engine is off.
Easy mistake to make when you are looking at the design. Just shows that Kenny isn't watching other peoples videos and trying to pass the info on like he already knew it (like a lot of RUclipsrs). That's why I like the guy. Passing on his knowledge and keeping it real. For others reading this post, here a link to a manufacturers video on it. ruclips.net/video/C8ExRwwfgO0/видео.html
@@craigstubbs1991 Also if you look carefully the second blue one he opened does not have a bypass valve, just a weak spot in the plastic moulding that will break to allow bypass.
One thing that I like to do is to take a section of maybe 1/4 the media, put it is a rag and squeeze it in my vice to get most of the oil out. This will give a better view of what the filter has caught.
First thing you do when buying a used vehicle is change all the fluids! If the oil is clean, doesn’t matter, change immediately to a quality full synthetic oil and a quality filter. You will be amazed how dirty the oil gets as the synthetic cleans the engine while driving. Change it frequently the first six months. 2nd item! Differential oil and transfer case oil! A lot of truck owners just don’t change it at all! The diff oil turns to jelly or is just dirt, transfer case too! Most service guides say change these oils every 20 - 30k miles under harsh environments, like super hot or dusty areas like Az, NV, NM, or lots of daily driving. If you drive in flooded streets you might contaminate the diff oil with water,(all diffs are vented). So, want a smooth engine and a smooth ride? Change fluids on a regular basis! 😊
It looks like when you pulled the filter media out of the second, smaller filter you were inspecting the "clean" side of the filter media, that is, the side of the filter media where the oil has already passed through it, rather than the "dirty" side of the filter media that catches the dirt and other contaminants.
Great explanation my suggestion since you have some oil you got cheap do an engine flush and the pull the pan and clean the pick up I would not wait 1500 miles their is a lot of loose build i think you need to check the pick up sooner then later
If you dont want to go to all the trouble of removing the oil pan, you can try this: BEFORE you pull the oil pan drain plug, blow compressed air BACKWARDS thru the oil filter adapter plate and it will dislodge some of whatever is blocking the oil pump pickup screen. When you pull the drain plug, it'll flush out that accumulated sludge with the old oil.
I always thought the oil pump had a bypass valve to bypass the filter externally of the actual filter if it becomes blocked . You kearn something every day
The Motorcraft FL1A oil filter was the one that was on the 5.0 V8's in the early 90's, we used all the time? It's a great large filter, maybe the best ever? Good job, Kenny.
As someone who has zero years experience in a dealership and about two months experience trying to make a living as a auto mechanic and mostly been a shade tree mechanic for 45 years: I recommend that you change your oil filter only every 750 to 1000 miles and then maybe doing an oil change at 3,000 miles. This might be the same money as a complete oil change at 1,500 miles. I think it would scrub the engine better. And for the record-there are already a ton of filter oil filter comparison videos on RUclips. And my final opinion is that the coil spring is a more Superior spring relative to the bent steel.
And they expect you to pay for what they didn't do. I caught a crooked tire chain shop here in the Phoenix, Arizona area called Fletcher's Cobra Tire doing that, in the 1990's. I had a friend who had caught them doing that and told me about it, so I used a sharpie to make my marks on the old filter, then after it was done, I popped the hood, and there were my marks. The Mgr and I had a tense conversation where he claimed the "technician" got confused because he was doing two cars at once and forgot to change my filter. They took it back in and put the new filter on, but I didn't think to make them drop the oil out because once it got started with the old filter still on, the new oil (provided they even had changed the oil, which I now doubt), would then be contaminated with old. So I started going to another location of the same chain, and caught them not lubing my zerk fittings. The Mgr said they dont really need grease every time. Really? Who the fk should be deciding if they need grease that I have paid for? After that, I called their VP of Operations and demanded the $70 fee back that I had paid for their "lifetime" oil change (cost $2 every time for oil disposal fee), and I told him I was going to report his chain to the state attorney general, and he blew his gasket. From then on, I started doing all my own oil changes. That crooked chain was bought out by Firestone. When I do my oil changes, I know there is a new filter and oil of my choice in the vehicle. You can never be sure if you have a shop do it unless you are certain it is an honest shop, and then you'll still wonder.
All very good reasons to not skimp on the quality of your filters. If all that crud finds its way into the bearings and galleries something is likely to fail.
Looking at the filter that you had on your truck you could see that the filter media had a bend in the pleats meaning you were probably bypassing the filter.
Kenny I love your videos! But you're not right on how oil filters work. The bypass valve is on the far end of the filter and opens when the pressure differential is beyond the design setting. Yes, if the differential was massive it might push the spring down and bypass oil, but that not how its designed to work. The rubber flapper is the anti drainback valve. It opens with almost no pressure once oil is flowing. I really like your videos tho! Keep it up!
The STP filter is basically the same as a SupetTech filter . Which is basically a AC Delco all made by Champion Labs Have a Honda Odyssey 2007 Gave me a p2647 and went into limp mode. Drove about 3 miles to home. Next day since I noticed the oil looked dark and dirty but the oil life said 20% left. To go ahead and change it early So far which hasn’t been that much. It hasn’t come back. Let’s hope it stays that way. Otherwise for me I may be replacing some pressure sensor or some vtech stuff. I cut open the filter just to see . I had some debris on it more then I would expect. Humm. Maybe I dodged a bullet. Fingers crossed. It has over 233k miles
Ford used those filters from the late 60's to the 90's on pretty much everything. In the 70's everything from the 2.0 in the pinto all the way up to the 460 used it.
On my 02 F150 5.4 with 171k miles, the last two oil changes were preceded by the addition of 6 ounces of Seafoam and driving it gently for about 30 miles. The oil was much blacker when drained so it cleaned up the internals a little maybe. I bought this truck used with 69k miles on it in 2009 and I'm not sure what kind of maintenance it had before I bought it.
There is an art to filter cutters, mostly in not cutting yourself wide open. I open the filter on my plane & wash kero thru the filter media & let the sediment settle. Then I use a magnet to troll for metal. Of course, the oil is sampled & sent off to a lab for analysis. Gloves are a must for me. The rotax oil system will run on low lead av gas but prefers mogas. The LL 100 avgas precipitates tons of lead in the accumulator tank & filter. I’d be even more quirky than I am now with that much lead in my body.
It is easier to lightly clamp the filter in a vise and then rotate the cutter around the filter. This also keeps the filter upright and minimizes the mess, but you will still lose enough to keep your vise well lubricated and rust free. 😁
Change your oil at 3k miles but change the filter at 1500 miles and add a quart of transmission fluid to help clean out the engine and then change the oil at 3k. cut open both filters at 3000 miles and compare them tp the first filter
there was a youtube heavy equipment mechanic from texas. Stven cox i think. He cut a bunch of filters apart to compare the filter media. Fram was the worst. It has the least amount of media
I always ask for a larger capacity filter. They look at me like I have 3 heads! I used to be able to get them back in the 80s. Is it me or its just not a thing anymore?
These have been used in aviation for decades. You always cut open your airplane filter and remove the media for inspection. The wheel cutters are used as they don’t add debris while cutting.
If you feel energetic you can do what I did on my 1977 Buick Regal with a 350-H motor is I installed a remote filter system. The remote base I use but I forget because it’s been over 10 years . The remote base excepts I think Chrysler big block, Toyota, Ford filters. What I did is use a Baldwin BT251 filter. The BT251 is the filter used on the Ford Powerstroke diesel engine, but I didn’t know it at the time. I just went with the longest filter cartridge container that fit the remote head/adapter mount. Then on my 96 Chrysler town & Country mini van with the 3.8 liter engine I use the Baldwin B2 oil filter right on the engine block because the filter itself is about 1.5 inches longer then the standard filter and I can snake it in their without any problems. In my city , I’m lucky to have a company that only specializes in oil filters for cars and heavy industry and and hydraulic hoses and related equipment. They have no problem fixing me up with solutions to these types of issues.
Actually the spring just provides pressure to the filter and this is why you notice it is partially squished. The other design will do this aswell. The pressure during start is completely controlled by the oil pump bypass. If the filter is really plugged the oil entering into the filter has a higher pressure but the pressure also pushes up the filter, this balances out the pressure on top so the spring does not contract during high pressure and a filter is plugged . Some engines do have a bypass like Gm it's part of the peice that the filter threads on it has a small bypass spring and hole and yes if the filter is plugged it will allow oil to transfer to the gallery but it is not part of the filter it's above the filter.
Hi,I would always cut them open and look with a high powered magnifying glass or microscope. I would rinse them in lacquer thinner and let it evaporate to see the metal or brass like materials. Thanks for the videos.
This is why I change my oil filters more often than i do the oil... I change my oil filter about midway through my oil change interval.. I have also done 3 filters per oil change before also. Basically I'm saying dirty filters cause oil to get dirtier faster.. So I strongly believe in changing filters more often then the oil... Do you normal oil change service intervals just change that filter half way through or every third of the way through for severe service rigs..
Back in the 70s and early 80s when we bought a used car/ truck we would do a low mileage oil change then we would change oil filters once between oil changes. This was my bosses rule. Most out vehicles would get in the upper 200k miles with no problems
I still change the filter again between oil changes and add a quart of fresh oil. It can't hurt and is much cheaper and less work than replacing an engine or vehicle. 🤔🤓🍻
I remember when Mobil 1 first came out with synthetic oil. The said to change the filter every 3000 miles, top off the oil and do a complete oil change at 25000 miles.
Ken put your oil filter in the vice to squeeze out the oil. I wrap mine in a shop paper towel than you can see everything better including metal flakes
I watched this a few times, I was having a logical problem with what you were saying regarding the bypass. If the pressure is high the filter will not be forced down, it will be forced up as the discharge port pressure will be lower than the pressure in the can. However, I think the actual bypass valve can be seen @5:39?
People always say fram filters are no good well I disagree and my reason is flow I change filters often keeping the flow high to me is important and I use Castrol GTX high mileage engine oil I have tested all it's the best Valvoline came in second on keeping pressure and staying clean
@@WrenchingWithKenny Depends where they are made, and you also will find your filters are made by a few factories around the world, just the paint used and the metal thickness varies according to the order.
@@SinCitySinner Yeah, that wasn't limited to only Fram. I remember Purolator pure ones had that problem with the paint when they sprayed that yellow textured paint on the cans. Sometimes it over sprayed into the can. So, it's definitely a good idea to check any filter for defects.
That spring is not a bypass. That spring holds the media in place. Pressure is equal all around the filter and no amount of pressure is going to force the media holding spring to move. That thing that you called the drain back valve is actually the bypass valve that gets triggered when the pressure exceeds what the filter media is capable of handling. The anti-drain back valve is just a piece of rubber that covers the intake holes so oil can't brain back.
its hard to determine if the smaller filter will get plugged faster or at the same rate considering a smaller sized filter is proportionately sized to oil capacity of the engine
Thanks for that. Also thanks for the video on the launch scanner I bought one because of you and it's already saved me money. And I'm not even a professional mechanic. 60 years old and I've never seen the inside of an oil filter. How about cutting open a fram and explain why you're so dead set against the fram I'm just curious that's all. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos I know it's gotta be a pain in the ass.
In my Toyota Matrix 2005 Base, I have been using a bigger filter than the factory recommended for almost 200,000 miles (my car has 240,000 miles - 04/29/2003). I use the HP-2009 K&N OIL FILTER or equivalent (Height 5.063 in, Outside Diameter 3 in, PSI Relief Valve 11-14 and Thread Specification 3/4 In. - 16) The recommended filter is HP-1003 K&N OIL FILTER (Height 3.313 in, Outside Diameter 2.688 in, PSI Relief Valve 11-17 and Thread Specification 3/4 In. - 16). The filter works perfectly with the gasket reaching all the way to the border of the engine filter base. You may check your Toyota and probably this filter fits perfectly, giving your engine a filter with more volume and filtration surface.
I do the oil changes myself, but a few times I went to a shop and always have to kind of argue with the mechanic to use the filter I give him, NOT the factory recommended!
I've always been told from different mechanics what filters they use. I typically used Fram filters and was told it was "junk". I'd LOVE to see what filters have in them and possibly find out what I should use. I just purchased 4 Motorcraft filters yesterday until I can do sufficient research. Please do! I'd be super interested
Fram has different grade filters. At least one version had a cardboard disc that would break down over time and the pieces would block the oil passage. You was never sure which version had it so people said to avoid all of them.
The oil filter on air craft piston engines are always cut open during oil change. Looking for unusual amount of metal or other things cough up in the filter elements.
The only times I've used Lucas was in some of the Dodge vehicles I've owned. They would have a weird knock in the engine, adding it made it go away. I'm not sure if those Dodges have a good enough oil pump.
My 2012 5.3 L Suburban gets regular oil changes however starts to lose oil pressure before the next change is due. I was fixing to replace the dreaded oil pickup tube O ring. On a hunch replaced the filter and all was well. I use more expensive filters however it is still prone to plug up filters. Why are they so small? Old v8 filters seemed like 3x the size.
Divest on the mechanism of that filter. That piece at the bottom of the filter, actually at the top of it, is a perch for the filter to sit on. The bypass spring is in the center of that filter. That's not a bypass return. That's the oil bypass spring and valve. When the filter gets when the oil filter gets plugged up it will bypass through that valve that is inside that filter, not that thing that you're saying that the whole filter bushes down. It doesn't work that way. At least that one there does not. The other thing is is that let's say you got a 25lb bypass spring in that filter and you have 35 lb of oil pressure. That means 10 lb oil pressure is bypassing the filter. The filter is only functioning in full filter mode when the pressure is below 25 lb of pressure. Basically all it stops has the dogs and small children. And mostly Works during very low operating RPM. On that STP filter that one works that way because the spring is actually holding the filter up against the mounting flange. They first filter was not on a spring it was on a perch.
Aircraft oil filters get cut open every change I hear, wonder if that is where this tool comes from? Also on the aircraft filter examinations they cut the element out and squeeze much of the excess oil out of the "accordion" prior to inspection.
I would quit putting the short dodge filter on it, you can use I believe a Ford long filter in it's place. I believe that's what we used on dodge when I was in the game. I can't remember the number but it is the same filter that fits a 352 or 303 from the 70 and 80's
That's interesting so much gunk good to know why. Im a nut about oil change and don't mark mileage i go by it's color and guess i change it every 2000 miles motors clean. i keep thinking about you not lubing the gasket.. because as a 16 year old in 1982 needing to change the oil I did it myself seemed easy til i took off and oil was emptying fast blew past the oil filter gasket I ask dad why and he said oil the filter gasket and ive never had that happen again the 40 years of changing my own oil..ive never paid anyone to change my own oil n filter. I probably wrenched the filter on so tight that caused the problem and will not have it so tight even next time seeing that it doesn't take so much. I always get a rag and clean the part where the gasket meets the motor before i lube the gasket. You mentioned that you don't lube the gasket maybe the metal mating surface still has oil on it?..sealing it up when you spin the new oil filter on idk but sure got my attention when you said you don't lube the gasket. Good to know stp is a good filter I've seen them around forever and wasn't sure.
Cut open one of those Fram orange cans of death (Extra Guard) and compare it to the better quality Frams tough guard. Should be an interesting comparison.
Wouldn't the trash in your oil filter indicate that The Lucas treatment was doing what it was supposed to and cleaning the engine and depositing the dirt in the filter
Wow! I would run a borescope up the drain plug hole and take a peek at the pick up screen. I've bought a few vehicles that were neglected and sludged up but usually pulled the valve covers and oil pan and cleaned them out just to be safe. "Lucas Oil Treatment". 🤣🤣 Give that a rest man.
You're going to have to keep cutting the filters open until that garbage stops clogging up the filters. Now I'm going to cut open my Cummins filter when it's due. I hopefully don't find anything, I've only owned the RAM truck for a Year but I have no idea how the previous owner took care of it. I towed a camper about 10K miles over the past year with it, changed the oil 5 times, (yes more than necessary) when I purchased it I told the dealership I'm. Changing the oil ASAP they said why it was just changed? I didn't trust them it was black way to black for them to have just changed it and it sat at the lot with a few test drives. Always better to err on the side of caution. These diesel engines are not cheap!!! It only has 140k miles on it but it's a 2012 a lot can happen or not happen in 11 years.
I'm sorry, but I believe you have things wrong. The rubber gasket at the top of filter is the anti-drain back valve. The bypass valve is at the bottom of the filter. Keep up the good work. I enjoy your video's very much.
I'm an old guy, wrenching since the early 1960s. I started watch your video because I'm amazed how difficult the engineers have made doing a repair and how poorly the vehicles are made. I quit doing cars and gas engines when the EPA got involved. Now only marine diesels and my own vehicle - diesel PU. I did a lot of racing with small block chevys, mostly sprints or similar.
Before the filter cutters came out, I used a large pipe cutter, works the same but more awkward. I've always been big on maintaining clean oil and used bypass filters on everything of mine. Now I use a stand alone centrifuge. On maintained marine engines, my engines and people that followed my lead usually got double the hours between overhauls. On a commercial boat, that means spending about $30G+ about half as often. With clean oil, many of the small problems just don't happen. Even the valve lash will stay the same long past the recommended interval. When you finally do overhaul, there's no sludge in the pan and the oil galleries are clean. Cranks stay standard and things like oil pumps will last through several overhaul cycles. Now I'm retired, live on a big boat, centrifuge my oil every 50-100 hours and test once a year. The diesel oil comes out almost clear and stays semi-transparent.
I'll have to look up what centrifuge the oil means. Interesting, thanks
How do I find out more on the centrifuge thing? How does it work?
If you do add K&N filter if you would. Because that's one of the most expensive filter you can buy. Great videos appreciate you.
Looking forward to seeing oil and filter when changed next at 1500 miles and also the next 1500 as well ,great content
Agreed!!!
me too
I noticed that when the filter spring is pushing the filter itself up, it distorters the otherwise "straight" nature of the filter ribs. Comparing your small and large filters (all things equal) shows a near new condition, whereas the "overused" filter (too many miles between changes) is obviously crushed. Thanks for the detailed diligence in your explanation. I have learned something today. You're the best!
Next time you want to use an additive or anybody use an additive, about a week before you do an oil change put a half a quart to a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine, or even transmission fluid. Running for that week, and then change the oil while the engine is still hot if possible. The Marvel Mystery Oil I have seen clear stuck lifters in less time than it takes to shut the hood after adding it to the engine. It is high in phosphorus which is a very effective cleaning agent. It has been bottled since 1923 for a very good reason. It also works great if you add it to your fuel tank, especially since in 2005 they removed much of the sulfur from gasoline which was the lubricating agent for all of your fuel system. So about once a month about 6 or 8 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel actually is very good for your fuel system.
Ive used atf in 350 chevy motors to shut up the lifters while it idles, about 2 to 4 ozs and change oil after 200 to 500 miles. Worked great!!!
Yea, I did that and my oil is turning dark brown real quick. The Marvel Mystery Oil is doing it’s job quite well and I’m changing the oil in my truck next week.
My dad used to run a quart of ATF through the carburetor about every other tune-up. Smoked up the whole neighborhood but that engine would probably/maybe still be running if I still had it. 😢🤓🍻
PS. It was a 1971 Ford Torino station wagon with a 351 Cleveland.
Carbureted with point type ignition. Around 1985 when my dad donated it to the High School for shop class it would still bark tires in all 3 gears. We drove cross country CA-SC in it once and up and down the east coast FL-ME at least once yearly. I loved that car. 😢🤓🍻
I had a noisey lifter on a 1972 351 C @ 38K miles. I was told to
Drizzle some in the carb and it quieted it down immediately.
Wow! That Car Quest filter really filtered out a lot of gunk and gook! That shows it was really doing its job. Goes to show you should always replace the filter with an oil change. I don't understand why some owner's manuals state to replace the filter every other oil change (like on my Honda CB1100 motorcycle). I replace that filter every time. And am happy to pay the $5 to $7 for a new one.
I have that same tool. I've cut hundreds of filters open and it still works great.
Pretty sure prior owners neglecting oil changes cased these issues. No way that filter should should look like that after 4000 miles. I change every 8000 with synthetic and never saw any sludge in the filter and filter was never distorted. Agree about oil treatments, useless snake oil
Spent 3 hours wrenching on the 04 Ford today. Had a few beers, grilled some footlong dogs on the grill and now ending the day with Kenny cutting open old oil filters.
Not a bad way to spend a Saturday 🙂
Hi Kenny!
Look into getting the tall filters. I used to get those for my Blazer instead of using the shorter filters. You were reading my mind when you said the next change will be 1500 miles. I was guessing 2000 miles and a tall filter.
You read my mind about getting a taller filter. More filter area is always better as long it doesn't get in the way of anything else, or hang so low that a rock can hit it.
@@neutrodyne - That's all I used to buy when the filters were the smaller diameter type like the STP one Kenny had in the video. Cheers!
Great upload Kenny!! I hope you don't have any clogged oil passages from all that crud. Many old time mechanics always said, 1. change your oil and filter every 5K and if you buy a car with sludge, just change the oil often to slowly remove that sludge. NEVER use "Engine Flushes" or you will break stuff loose and block oil galleys /passages.
I used to run a quart of deisel fuel through the motor without starting it to flush the pan and lifters.
Thanks for the great video, good to know how them filters work and get plugged.✅😎👍
Another great episode of fantastic content. I appreciate you taking the time to teach people about what is going on with their vehicles. Don't worry about the negative comments about terminology or the exact details. You are doing a great service for people.
Right after I added a 20-ton hydraulic press to my DIY shop, I welded up a section of pipe and a base plate of 1/4" steel. The bottom of the pipe/plate has standoffs. I also welded up a stack of 1/4" circular pieces for a ram piston.
Since I completed that little project, I no longer have to run my used oil filters to a disposal site. I crush them in the press squeezing out all the oil making a dense metal puck the width of a waffle. The puck then just goes in the regular recycling bin for weekly residential refuse pickup.
I would burn them in my woodstove.
Wish we could see it. Sounds fantastic .
Very nice video.
SB Chevy (and I believe BB too) have a mechanical filter by-pass in the block in addition to the internal filter bypass.
For people wanting to know more about oil filters,a youtuber called Ford Boss Me has done several videos on cutting open different filters to see what's inside them.
And there are many others
Different flow rates for those two sizes of oil filter...
The filter size may appear to be less susceptible to clogging when larger, but that may not represent the amount of flow any particular area of filter would get in the actual engine it's paired with. Also, there are different oil well volumes being filtered.
Thanks
Would really like to see a comparison between WIX and ac delco filters. Thanks for all the information. Great video
It is amazing the difference it makes when you maintain your vehicles well vs. not. I change my oil every 5K miles (Mobil 1) and my engines are still clean at 150,000 miles. Makes a big difference.
Round seal by the input is the inlet anti drainback valve, the bypass valve is the little one in the middle of the bottom can, which will open eventually on enough pressure. The spring is integrated into the base along with the metal on metal stamped valve, which will always bypass a tiny amount of oil.
Yeah, not sure what Kenny is on about, every other video on oil filters says that a plugged up filter opens the little valve in the bottom of the filter, nothing about the spring moving. They say the spring is to keep the anti drain back valve closed when the engine is off.
Easy mistake to make when you are looking at the design. Just shows that Kenny isn't watching other peoples videos and trying to pass the info on like he already knew it (like a lot of RUclipsrs). That's why I like the guy. Passing on his knowledge and keeping it real. For others reading this post, here a link to a manufacturers video on it. ruclips.net/video/C8ExRwwfgO0/видео.html
@@craigstubbs1991 Also if you look carefully the second blue one he opened does not have a bypass valve, just a weak spot in the plastic moulding that will break to allow bypass.
One thing that I like to do is to take a section of maybe 1/4 the media, put it is a rag and squeeze it in my vice to get most of the oil out. This will give a better view of what the filter has caught.
On “project farm “ he tested a bunch of oil filters. You should eat it, extremely informative
Never seen the inside of a filter before thanks for that Kenny.
First thing you do when buying a used vehicle is change all the fluids! If the oil is clean, doesn’t matter, change immediately to a quality full synthetic oil and a quality filter. You will be amazed how dirty the oil gets as the synthetic cleans the engine while driving. Change it frequently the first six months. 2nd item! Differential oil and transfer case oil! A lot of truck owners just don’t change it at all! The diff oil turns to jelly or is just dirt, transfer case too! Most service guides say change these oils every 20 - 30k miles under harsh environments, like super hot or dusty areas like Az, NV, NM, or lots of daily driving. If you drive in flooded streets you might contaminate the diff oil with water,(all diffs are vented). So, want a smooth engine and a smooth ride? Change fluids on a regular basis! 😊
It looks like when you pulled the filter media out of the second, smaller filter you were inspecting the "clean" side of the filter media, that is, the side of the filter media where the oil has already passed through it, rather than the "dirty" side of the filter media that catches the dirt and other contaminants.
Great explanation my suggestion since you have some oil you got cheap do an engine flush and the pull the pan and clean the pick up I would not wait 1500 miles their is a lot of loose build i think you need to check the pick up sooner then later
If you dont want to go to all the trouble of removing the oil pan, you can try this: BEFORE you pull the oil pan drain plug, blow compressed air BACKWARDS thru the oil filter adapter plate and it will dislodge some of whatever is blocking the oil pump pickup screen. When you pull the drain plug, it'll flush out that accumulated sludge with the old oil.
Another great video Kenny!!!!
Thank you for all your help!
I always thought the oil pump had a bypass valve to bypass the filter externally of the actual filter if it becomes blocked . You kearn something every day
The oil pump bypass is only there as a regulator to control pressure. It will.bypass when pressure exceeds a predetermined limit. Keep wrenching
@@WrenchingWithKenny Thanks Kenny
We cut open every reciprocating aircraft engine oil filter to check for metal. Great videos
The Motorcraft FL1A oil filter was the one that was on the 5.0 V8's in the early 90's, we used all the time? It's a great large filter, maybe the best ever? Good job, Kenny.
I liked the FL8A, but I am biased, the 300 straight six is my all time favorite engine. 🤔🤓🍻
As someone who has zero years experience in a dealership and about two months experience trying to make a living as a auto mechanic and mostly been a shade tree mechanic for 45 years:
I recommend that you change your oil filter only every 750 to 1000 miles and then maybe doing an oil change at 3,000 miles. This might be the same money as a complete oil change at 1,500 miles. I think it would scrub the engine better.
And for the record-there are already a ton of filter oil filter comparison videos on RUclips.
And my final opinion is that the coil spring is a more Superior spring relative to the bent steel.
Some dishonest workshops doesn’t change oil or fuel filters when serving a vehicle, although they clearly state on the job card that they did.
And they expect you to pay for what they didn't do. I caught a crooked tire chain shop here in the Phoenix, Arizona area called Fletcher's Cobra Tire doing that, in the 1990's. I had a friend who had caught them doing that and told me about it, so I used a sharpie to make my marks on the old filter, then after it was done, I popped the hood, and there were my marks. The Mgr and I had a tense conversation where he claimed the "technician" got confused because he was doing two cars at once and forgot to change my filter. They took it back in and put the new filter on, but I didn't think to make them drop the oil out because once it got started with the old filter still on, the new oil (provided they even had changed the oil, which I now doubt), would then be contaminated with old. So I started going to another location of the same chain, and caught them not lubing my zerk fittings. The Mgr said they dont really need grease every time. Really? Who the fk should be deciding if they need grease that I have paid for? After that, I called their VP of Operations and demanded the $70 fee back that I had paid for their "lifetime" oil change (cost $2 every time for oil disposal fee), and I told him I was going to report his chain to the state attorney general, and he blew his gasket. From then on, I started doing all my own oil changes. That crooked chain was bought out by Firestone. When I do my oil changes, I know there is a new filter and oil of my choice in the vehicle. You can never be sure if you have a shop do it unless you are certain it is an honest shop, and then you'll still wonder.
Great video, would like to see different oil filters cut open. Would like to see what the k&n oil filters are like.
An old mechanic friend of mine used to say if you can't afford to change your oil at the least change your filter
All very good reasons to not skimp on the quality of your filters. If all that crud finds its way into the bearings and galleries something is likely to fail.
Looking at the filter that you had on your truck you could see that the filter media had a bend in the pleats meaning you were probably bypassing the filter.
The spring is actually an antireturn valve in order to keep a decent amount of oil in the filter
Nice video using the STP filter on my next oil change!
Thank you for doing this. I've never seen an opened oil filter. My wife's car is past due. I will change the oil this week.
Kenny I love your videos! But you're not right on how oil filters work. The bypass valve is on the far end of the filter and opens when the pressure differential is beyond the design setting. Yes, if the differential was massive it might push the spring down and bypass oil, but that not how its designed to work. The rubber flapper is the anti drainback valve. It opens with almost no pressure once oil is flowing. I really like your videos tho! Keep it up!
The STP filter is basically the same as a SupetTech filter . Which is basically a AC Delco all made by Champion Labs
Have a Honda Odyssey 2007
Gave me a p2647 and went into limp mode. Drove about 3 miles to home. Next day since I noticed the oil looked dark and dirty but the oil life said 20% left. To go ahead and change it early
So far which hasn’t been that much. It hasn’t come back. Let’s hope it stays that way. Otherwise for me I may be replacing some pressure sensor or some vtech stuff. I cut open the filter just to see . I had some debris on it more then I would expect. Humm. Maybe I dodged a bullet. Fingers crossed.
It has over 233k miles
Ford used those filters from the late 60's to the 90's on pretty much everything. In the 70's everything from the 2.0 in the pinto all the way up to the 460 used it.
Put the filter media in a vise and squeeze out the oil, you will see clearly any carbon, sludge, and wear metals if any.
Best and most informative vid yet. Thanks.
On my 02 F150 5.4 with 171k miles, the last two oil changes were preceded by the addition of 6 ounces of Seafoam and driving it gently for about 30 miles. The oil was much blacker when drained so it cleaned up the internals a little maybe. I bought this truck used with 69k miles on it in 2009 and I'm not sure what kind of maintenance it had before I bought it.
There is an art to filter cutters, mostly in not cutting yourself wide open. I open the filter on my plane & wash kero thru the filter media & let the sediment settle. Then I use a magnet to troll for metal. Of course, the oil is sampled & sent off to a lab for analysis. Gloves are a must for me. The rotax oil system will run on low lead av gas but prefers mogas. The LL 100 avgas precipitates tons of lead in the accumulator tank & filter. I’d be even more quirky than I am now with that much lead in my body.
It is easier to lightly clamp the filter in a vise and then rotate the cutter around the filter. This also keeps the filter upright and minimizes the mess, but you will still lose enough to keep your vise well lubricated and rust free. 😁
Change your oil at 3k miles but change the filter at 1500 miles and add a quart of transmission fluid to help clean out the engine and then change the oil at 3k. cut open both filters at 3000 miles and compare them tp the first filter
there was a youtube heavy equipment mechanic from texas. Stven cox i think. He cut a bunch of filters apart to compare the filter media. Fram was the worst. It has the least amount of media
I always ask for a larger capacity filter. They look at me like I have 3 heads! I used to be able to get them back in the 80s. Is it me or its just not a thing anymore?
I have the exact same cutter. It's pretty heavy, and it works well
Coffee filters work great for filtering that last little bit of oil.
These have been used in aviation for decades. You always cut open your airplane filter and remove the media for inspection. The wheel cutters are used as they don’t add debris while cutting.
If you feel energetic you can do what I did on my 1977 Buick Regal with a 350-H motor is I installed a remote filter system. The remote base I use but I forget because it’s been over 10 years . The remote base excepts I think Chrysler big block, Toyota, Ford filters. What I did is use a Baldwin BT251 filter. The BT251 is the filter used on the Ford Powerstroke diesel engine, but I didn’t know it at the time. I just went with the longest filter cartridge container that fit the remote head/adapter mount. Then on my 96 Chrysler town & Country mini van with the 3.8 liter engine I use the Baldwin B2 oil filter right on the engine block because the filter itself is about 1.5 inches longer then the standard filter and I can snake it in their without any problems. In my city , I’m lucky to have a company that only specializes in oil filters for cars and heavy industry and and hydraulic hoses and related equipment. They have no problem fixing me up with solutions to these types of issues.
Actually the spring just provides pressure to the filter and this is why you notice it is partially squished. The other design will do this aswell. The pressure during start is completely controlled by the oil pump bypass. If the filter is really plugged the oil entering into the filter has a higher pressure but the pressure also pushes up the filter, this balances out the pressure on top so the spring does not contract during high pressure and a filter is plugged . Some engines do have a bypass like Gm it's part of the peice that the filter threads on it has a small bypass spring and hole and yes if the filter is plugged it will allow oil to transfer to the gallery but it is not part of the filter it's above the filter.
Hi,I would always cut them open and look with a high powered magnifying glass or microscope. I would rinse them in lacquer thinner and let it evaporate to see the metal or brass like materials. Thanks for the videos.
This is why I change my oil filters more often than i do the oil... I change my oil filter about midway through my oil change interval.. I have also done 3 filters per oil change before also. Basically I'm saying dirty filters cause oil to get dirtier faster.. So I strongly believe in changing filters more often then the oil... Do you normal oil change service intervals just change that filter half way through or every third of the way through for severe service rigs..
I am interested in your next oil change, how fast it cleans up.
Hey Kenny....I learned something new today. Thanks
Back in the 70s and early 80s when we bought a used car/ truck we would do a low mileage oil change then we would change oil filters once between oil changes. This was my bosses rule. Most out vehicles would get in the upper 200k miles with no problems
I still change the filter again between oil changes and add a quart of fresh oil. It can't hurt and is much cheaper and less work than replacing an engine or vehicle. 🤔🤓🍻
I remember when Mobil 1 first came out with synthetic oil. The said to change the filter every 3000 miles, top off the oil and do a complete oil change at 25000 miles.
Ken put your oil filter in the vice to squeeze out the oil. I wrap mine in a shop paper towel than you can see everything better including metal flakes
Great video. think I would change the filter a couple times before your next oil change just a thought
I watched this a few times, I was having a logical problem with what you were saying regarding the bypass. If the pressure is high the filter will not be forced down, it will be forced up as the discharge port pressure will be lower than the pressure in the can. However, I think the actual bypass valve can be seen @5:39?
In General Aviation aircraft we always cut the filter open and check out the media. Part of a regular oil change.
People always say fram filters are no good well I disagree and my reason is flow I change filters often keeping the flow high to me is important and I use Castrol GTX high mileage engine oil I have tested all it's the best Valvoline came in second on keeping pressure and staying clean
In years past , I've taken Fram filters apart to find they were absolute junk . Maybe they're better nowadays ?
Depends on the model. Their low end, I wouldn't touch. Their high end synthetic is one of the best.
@@WrenchingWithKenny Depends where they are made, and you also will find your filters are made by a few factories around the world, just the paint used and the metal thickness varies according to the order.
@@SinCitySinner Yeah, that wasn't limited to only Fram. I remember Purolator pure ones had that problem with the paint when they sprayed that yellow textured paint on the cans. Sometimes it over sprayed into the can. So, it's definitely a good idea to check any filter for defects.
Always been a Valvoline guy so good to see this; t/y.
That spring is not a bypass. That spring holds the media in place. Pressure is equal all around the filter and no amount of pressure is going to force the media holding spring to move. That thing that you called the drain back valve is actually the bypass valve that gets triggered when the pressure exceeds what the filter media is capable of handling. The anti-drain back valve is just a piece of rubber that covers the intake holes so oil can't brain back.
The oil goes in the center when the filter gets restricted it forces the spring down then bypasses the filter media.
Great video as always. I'd love to see a comparison of the insides of a bunch of common filters if you get a chance.
its hard to determine if the smaller filter will get plugged faster or at the same rate considering a smaller sized filter is proportionately sized to oil capacity of the engine
Great video 👍 yes I would like you to compare and cut open numerous oil filter manufacturers and comment on each one.
Very interesting Kenny Thankyou
Thank s.
I would like for you to do an oil filter demo so we can see the media and spring difference.
Thanks for that. Also thanks for the video on the launch scanner I bought one because of you and it's already saved me money. And I'm not even a professional mechanic.
60 years old and I've never seen the inside of an oil filter.
How about cutting open a fram and explain why you're so dead set against the fram I'm just curious that's all.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos I know it's gotta be a pain in the ass.
Sure, I'll watch some more oil filter cutting open.
Replaceable paper filters are much better , you can easily see them :)
I would enjoy seeing a comparison video.
I'd love to see the different engine oil brands internals. That would be very interested to see and know. Thanks.
In my Toyota Matrix 2005 Base, I have been using a bigger filter than the factory recommended for almost 200,000 miles (my car has 240,000 miles - 04/29/2003).
I use the HP-2009 K&N OIL FILTER or equivalent (Height 5.063 in, Outside Diameter 3 in, PSI Relief Valve 11-14 and Thread Specification 3/4 In. - 16)
The recommended filter is HP-1003 K&N OIL FILTER (Height 3.313 in, Outside Diameter 2.688 in, PSI Relief Valve 11-17 and Thread Specification 3/4 In. - 16).
The filter works perfectly with the gasket reaching all the way to the border of the engine filter base.
You may check your Toyota and probably this filter fits perfectly, giving your engine a filter with more volume and filtration surface.
I do the oil changes myself, but a few times I went to a shop and always have to kind of argue with the mechanic to use the filter I give him, NOT the factory recommended!
If you change the oil in a RAM Cummins or another Medium duty Diesel seeing the inside of the filter would be great 👍
I've always been told from different mechanics what filters they use. I typically used Fram filters and was told it was "junk".
I'd LOVE to see what filters have in them and possibly find out what I should use.
I just purchased 4 Motorcraft filters yesterday until I can do sufficient research.
Please do! I'd be super interested
Do a quick RUclips search. There are approximately 286286 videos of cutting apart oil filters. :)
Fram has different grade filters. At least one version had a cardboard disc that would break down over time and the pieces would block the oil passage. You was never sure which version had it so people said to avoid all of them.
The oil filter on air craft piston engines are always cut open during oil change. Looking for unusual amount of metal or other things cough up in the filter elements.
That's a good practice, especially for the older/more used vehicles. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
The only times I've used Lucas was in some of the Dodge vehicles I've owned. They would have a weird knock in the engine, adding it made it go away. I'm not sure if those Dodges have a good enough oil pump.
My 2012 5.3 L Suburban gets regular oil changes however starts to lose oil pressure before the next change is due. I was fixing to replace the dreaded oil pickup tube O ring. On a hunch replaced the filter and all was well. I use more expensive filters however it is still prone to plug up filters. Why are they so small? Old v8 filters seemed like 3x the size.
Divest on the mechanism of that filter. That piece at the bottom of the filter, actually at the top of it, is a perch for the filter to sit on. The bypass spring is in the center of that filter. That's not a bypass return. That's the oil bypass spring and valve. When the filter gets when the oil filter gets plugged up it will bypass through that valve that is inside that filter, not that thing that you're saying that the whole filter bushes down. It doesn't work that way. At least that one there does not. The other thing is is that let's say you got a 25lb bypass spring in that filter and you have 35 lb of oil pressure. That means 10 lb oil pressure is bypassing the filter. The filter is only functioning in full filter mode when the pressure is below 25 lb of pressure. Basically all it stops has the dogs and small children. And mostly Works during very low operating RPM.
On that STP filter that one works that way because the spring is actually holding the filter up against the mounting flange. They first filter was not on a spring it was on a perch.
One of the best mechanics on RUclips
Is WIX filters any good
I would like to more oil filter videos
Kenny, was the oil really dirty? Sounds like the filter actually did a good job but the oil was so dirty it just filled up and plugged the filter
Aircraft oil filters get cut open every change I hear, wonder if that is where this tool comes from? Also on the aircraft filter examinations they cut the element out and squeeze much of the excess oil out of the "accordion" prior to inspection.
I would quit putting the short dodge filter on it, you can use I believe a Ford long filter in it's place. I believe that's what we used on dodge when I was in the game. I can't remember the number but it is the same filter that fits a 352 or 303 from the 70 and 80's
I have the Ford 4.0 and wanted to put on the larger filter but nooooooooo. This engine has metric threads for the filter. Idiots.
That's interesting so much gunk good to know why. Im a nut about oil change and don't mark mileage i go by it's color and guess i change it every 2000 miles motors clean. i keep thinking about you not lubing the gasket..
because as a 16 year old in 1982 needing to change the oil I did it myself seemed easy til i took off and oil was emptying fast blew past the oil filter gasket I ask dad why and he said oil the filter gasket and ive never had that happen again the 40 years of changing my own oil..ive never paid anyone to change my own oil n filter. I probably wrenched the filter on so tight that caused the problem and will not have it so tight even next time seeing that it doesn't take so much.
I always get a rag and clean the part where the gasket meets the motor before i lube the gasket. You mentioned that you don't lube the gasket maybe the metal mating surface still has oil on it?..sealing it up when you spin the new oil filter on idk but sure got my attention when you said you don't lube the gasket. Good to know stp is a good filter I've seen them around forever and wasn't sure.
I always put a light film of oil on the gasket, to make sure it won't bind on tightening.
Lucas treatment did that?
Would like to see more cut filters👍
Cut open one of those Fram orange cans of death (Extra Guard) and compare it to the better quality Frams tough guard. Should be an interesting comparison.
Judging by the condition of that filter, I'd change the oil and filter again after 500 miles and maybe again after another 1000.
Or just the filter and compare the first second and so on using the same oil until the oil is due then compare them all.
@@garysgarage.2841 Maybe. I was just thinking that the goal is to clean the engine and fresh oil would do a better job.
I once changed a filter on a 4 cyl Diesel engine that had been well,neglected. The filter rattled when shaken.......
Spin the oil filter 2or 3 times then tighten again. You shouldn’t have to spin it 10 or 15 times before you tighten the cutter again
Wouldn't the trash in your oil filter indicate that The Lucas treatment was doing what it was supposed to and cleaning the engine and depositing the dirt in the filter
Wow! I would run a borescope up the drain plug hole and take a peek at the pick up screen. I've bought a few vehicles that were neglected and sludged up but usually pulled the valve covers and oil pan and cleaned them out just to be safe.
"Lucas Oil Treatment". 🤣🤣 Give that a rest man.
I always thought Lucas Oil Treatment would make for a good assembly lube. 😂
You're going to have to keep cutting the filters open until that garbage stops clogging up the filters. Now I'm going to cut open my Cummins filter when it's due. I hopefully don't find anything, I've only owned the RAM truck for a Year but I have no idea how the previous owner took care of it. I towed a camper about 10K miles over the past year with it, changed the oil 5 times, (yes more than necessary) when I purchased it I told the dealership I'm. Changing the oil ASAP they said why it was just changed? I didn't trust them it was black way to black for them to have just changed it and it sat at the lot with a few test drives. Always better to err on the side of caution. These diesel engines are not cheap!!! It only has 140k miles on it but it's a 2012 a lot can happen or not happen in 11 years.