There is a mobile home salvage supply place near me that sells the FRP in 4X7 sheets. It's great stuff. My neighbor used it for the roof of his chicken pen. WATERPROOF.
I really like the stuff, although it is very itchy when using it with it being fiberglass. I know people use it in commercial kitchens and bathrooms because it is so easy to clean.
You use a large battery and bucket of paint to (try) and weigh down the bowed roof plywood. Here's a helpful tip that helps me often. Take your empty one gallon plastic milk jugs out of your recycle bin. (Cost? Free!) They're made of HDPE plastic... tough, while remaining gentle on surfaces. Fill them with dirt. (Cost? Free!) This gives you a surprisingly heavy weight. With one or two or ten or 20 or 100 of them, you'll find you have tons of weights, obtained for free, to hold down anything you need to hold down while glue dries. And these weatherproof weights store easily when not used, either inside or outside, summer or winter.
Great suggestion! I just used what I had around the shop. I'll remember the bucket and dirt trick next time, because God knows I have plenty of buckets. haha
Coming together nicely man! Can't wait to start mine come Spring Time! I think I'm having the hardest time finding the right trailer base at the moment. Looking forward to the next one!
@@FunkeAdventures Absolutely! I have another channel more relevant to this niche that I’ll probably film it all for too! I just rewatched your ‘trailer frame’ video and it’s really helpful. I’ve been considering the Harbor Freight one, but I’m back and forth. I really like your frame and am currently growing the WorkHorse Trailers website 👍🏼
Oh you know it Brock! The roof rack gets installed right above the exterior walls, which are very strong. Then the rooftop tent weight just gets dispersed over the strong exterior walls, rather than the middle part of the roof. You could walk up there, but I wouldn't go jumping around on it. But a rooftop tent would be perfect up on the roof rack.
One minor difference is that I'm gonna make the rear door swing out sideways instead of up. I want to include a fold down table on it since the rear will be my kitchen area.
@@CLGravy I love that Idea. Honestly, that is how I would do it next time. I actually want to get a pre-built side-swinging door. The one I want to get is from vintage technologies. It is the very last one on this page, but after shipping & handling, I think it would be well over $700. Someday... www.teardroptrailerparts.com/doors.html
Yeah, I'm on a teacher's salary. Gonna be getting some home depot strap hinges and building my own like you did. Lol. I'll send pics of the progress as I work on it.
@@CLGravy I totally get that. We sure need to pay your teachers more. Thanks for what you do! One suggestion I would have with the strap hinges (and maybe you have already thought about this) would be to get the most heavy duty ones you can find. Or even go for a heavy duty door hinge instead. I've used some strap hinges before and I was disappointed that they struggled to hold up a much smaller door without sagging. I think also having a metal plate on the backside of the door behind the hinge could help. Then you could used some lag bolts to bolt all the way through the door and get it really tight. That may help with any sagging issues. I'm excited to see your progress when you start building it.
Not sure I 100% understand your question. The camper covers the entirety of the trailer. I've used up every inch of the metal trailer frame. There isn't an extra inch (definitely not a whole foot), that could be used to make the camper wider or longer. I have a full queen sized mattress inside, with a 14 inch storage space in the back. I'm not sure what you mean by "pod" on the middle of the trailer.
@@FunkeAdventures I mean you did not build into the front of the trailer, that extra 24" of triangular area, and have more space and more streamlining. Also build out PAST the frame to cover the wheels (like in most production trailers like Casita and Scamp). I'll build out so as to have lots more storage & streamlining.
@@arthurfoyt6727 oh, I see what you’re saying. Good for you! I have a tongue box on the front tongue of the trailer. It houses all of my electrical components. The width of the camper was perfect for my needs and simplified the build. I would argue that “most production trailers” don’t actually build past the frame to cover the tires. At least not “off-road” and overlanding campers. Some do, but for example, smittybilt scout, hiker trailers, boreas xt, blue ridge expedition, hive, etc. do not. But to each their own. You build what’s best for you, I’ll build what’s best for me.
@@FunkeAdventures Yea, I was just curious. Seems most people don't want to use extra material or want big fenders to use as a ladder/table. I want to build out and streamlined to maximize space and make towing easier. See ya!
Ill be using some of this stuff. Love the inner trim look so ill be stealing this for my next one..
Love this camper!
Really good and helpful video! I feel like I could tackle my own after watching this series
dangg this is turning out soo good! keep it up!
Thank you so much!!
There is a mobile home salvage supply place near me that sells the FRP in 4X7 sheets. It's great stuff. My neighbor used it for the roof of his chicken pen. WATERPROOF.
I really like the stuff, although it is very itchy when using it with it being fiberglass.
I know people use it in commercial kitchens and bathrooms because it is so easy to clean.
You use a large battery and bucket of paint to (try) and weigh down the bowed roof plywood. Here's a helpful tip that helps me often. Take your empty one gallon plastic milk jugs out of your recycle bin. (Cost? Free!) They're made of HDPE plastic... tough, while remaining gentle on surfaces. Fill them with dirt. (Cost? Free!) This gives you a surprisingly heavy weight. With one or two or ten or 20 or 100 of them, you'll find you have tons of weights, obtained for free, to hold down anything you need to hold down while glue dries. And these weatherproof weights store easily when not used, either inside or outside, summer or winter.
Great suggestion! I just used what I had around the shop. I'll remember the bucket and dirt trick next time, because God knows I have plenty of buckets. haha
Coming together nicely man! Can't wait to start mine come Spring Time! I think I'm having the hardest time finding the right trailer base at the moment. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Danny! When you get started, you'll have to send me some photos and updates as you go. What are you looking for in your trailer base?
Your videos are great BTW! Keep it up!
@@FunkeAdventures Absolutely! I have another channel more relevant to this niche that I’ll probably film it all for too! I just rewatched your ‘trailer frame’ video and it’s really helpful. I’ve been considering the Harbor Freight one, but I’m back and forth. I really like your frame and am currently growing the WorkHorse Trailers website 👍🏼
@@FunkeAdventures I saw you subscribed not too long ago - thanks for that!
Enjoying this series.
How strong is that roof? You figure you could stand on it? Put a rooftop tent on it?
Oh you know it Brock! The roof rack gets installed right above the exterior walls, which are very strong. Then the rooftop tent weight just gets dispersed over the strong exterior walls, rather than the middle part of the roof. You could walk up there, but I wouldn't go jumping around on it. But a rooftop tent would be perfect up on the roof rack.
Excellent videos man. I have a trailer that I'm gonna starting building a 4x8 similar to this style over Christmas break.
That’s awesome Chancey! You’ll have to send me some photos! Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
One minor difference is that I'm gonna make the rear door swing out sideways instead of up. I want to include a fold down table on it since the rear will be my kitchen area.
@@CLGravy I love that Idea. Honestly, that is how I would do it next time. I actually want to get a pre-built side-swinging door. The one I want to get is from vintage technologies. It is the very last one on this page, but after shipping & handling, I think it would be well over $700. Someday... www.teardroptrailerparts.com/doors.html
Yeah, I'm on a teacher's salary. Gonna be getting some home depot strap hinges and building my own like you did. Lol. I'll send pics of the progress as I work on it.
@@CLGravy I totally get that. We sure need to pay your teachers more. Thanks for what you do!
One suggestion I would have with the strap hinges (and maybe you have already thought about this) would be to get the most heavy duty ones you can find. Or even go for a heavy duty door hinge instead. I've used some strap hinges before and I was disappointed that they struggled to hold up a much smaller door without sagging. I think also having a metal plate on the backside of the door behind the hinge could help. Then you could used some lag bolts to bolt all the way through the door and get it really tight. That may help with any sagging issues.
I'm excited to see your progress when you start building it.
Awesome
how big is the galley on this trailer?
where did you get the ceiling van/window?
Amazon amzn.to/3NPT8S6
Thanks for watching the videos and subscribing!
Just curious, WHY build a "pod" on the middle of a trailer? Wht not gain at leat 1' wide and 3" longer by using the full size of the trailer?
Not sure I 100% understand your question. The camper covers the entirety of the trailer. I've used up every inch of the metal trailer frame. There isn't an extra inch (definitely not a whole foot), that could be used to make the camper wider or longer. I have a full queen sized mattress inside, with a 14 inch storage space in the back.
I'm not sure what you mean by "pod" on the middle of the trailer.
@@FunkeAdventures I mean you did not build into the front of the trailer, that extra 24" of triangular area, and have more space and more streamlining. Also build out PAST the frame to cover the wheels (like in most production trailers like Casita and Scamp). I'll build out so as to have lots more storage & streamlining.
@@arthurfoyt6727 oh, I see what you’re saying. Good for you! I have a tongue box on the front tongue of the trailer. It houses all of my electrical components. The width of the camper was perfect for my needs and simplified the build.
I would argue that “most production trailers” don’t actually build past the frame to cover the tires. At least not “off-road” and overlanding campers. Some do, but for example, smittybilt scout, hiker trailers, boreas xt, blue ridge expedition, hive, etc. do not. But to each their own. You build what’s best for you, I’ll build what’s best for me.
@@FunkeAdventures Yea, I was just curious. Seems most people don't want to use extra material or want big fenders to use as a ladder/table. I want to build out and streamlined to maximize space and make towing easier. See ya!