Ms. Pac-Man Restoration part 2: Transformer Assembly Overhaul & Initial Paint Removal
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In part 2 of the Ms. Pac-Man restoration project, Charlie performs some necessary maintenance on the power transformer assembly and experiments with a couple different techniques for removing the black paint covering up the original cabinet artwork. Let's see what a little bit of solder and isopropyl can do!
Episode #6
Find me on the KLOV forums as CharlieG: forums.arcade-...
KLOV forum post about using a paper towel soaked in isopropyl under plastic wrap to remove black paint from cabinet artwork: forums.arcade-...
Jacklick's video on Ms. Pac-Man Transformer Testing: • Ms. Pac-Man Transforme...
Tools & parts used in this video (contains affiliate links):
SKIL Rechargeable USB Cordless Screwdriver amzn.to/3ROoqdF
Fluke 117 Digital Multimeter amzn.to/3CKpACT
Hakko FX888D Soldering Station amzn.to/3RPzKWS
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Tool amzn.to/3ed6sEd
Hakko 633 Soldering Iron Holder amzn.to/3CLlKZW
Hakko 611 Solder Reel Stand amzn.to/3TwdBhw
Hakko CHP-170 Micro Cutters amzn.to/3TLxP7t
Kester 44 Rosin Core Leaded Solder amzn.to/3EvTY5i
Kester 186 Liquid Flux Pen amzn.to/3ROjaqk
Pro'sKit 900-015 Helping Hands amzn.to/3T5A4Cq
Klein Tools 11061 Automatic Wire Stripper amzn.to/3MBPD2q
Iwiss SN-2549 Ratcheting Crimping Tool amzn.to/3D6XqlM
Craftsman Folding Metal Sawhorse amzn.to/3VLp7I6
Flexi Hose with 8 Function Nozzle amzn.to/3D2sPFS
Husky 4.5 Gal. Portable Silent Air Compressor ebay.us/MRLLQ0
Ridgid 1/4 in. Lay Flat Air Hose ebay.us/h1IyJm
2 Fuse Holder www.arcadepart...
4 Fuse Holder www.arcadepart...
8ft AC Power Line Cord www.arcadepart...
AMP 3 Pin Mate-N-Lok Female Cap Connector www.arcadepart...
Molex .084 Male Pins www.arcadepart...
2A 250V Slow Blow 3AG Fuses www.arcadepart...
1A 250V Fast Blow 3AG Fuses www.arcadepart...
5A 250V Fast Blow 3AG Fuses www.arcadepart...
Theme Music Credit: "Synthwave 80s" by AlexiAction (used with permission under the Pixabay License) pixabay.com/mu...
Additional Music Credit: "80S RADIO TUNE" by Guitar_Obsession (used with permission under the Pixabay License) pixabay.com/mu...
I would use the 98% intact unit. Considering the bezel is 98% as well and the side art will probably appear weathered. I think it will fit. If you were to re stencil I would use new
I agree with storminnormin. I would use the control panel with the better overlay. It should clean up nicely and match with the rest of the cab. Especially since the rest of the cab will be original and not re-stensiled, even if the overlay is a little worn (and not much at that) it should still look great.
My vote is to use the 98% intact OG panel. The rest of the cabinet has some battle wounds and patina so it will fit right in...
Nice work! I'm surprised you didn't swap out the inline filter. It's a $3 part and sometimes (along with the fuse blocks you already swapped) will cause hum bars on the monitor if they are faulty or old.
Great suggestion - I’ll include one in my next parts order!
Its nice to see you keep the power supply original, and not just throw a switching PS in the cab. :) great video
Thanks! I always try to keep everything as original as possible. And thanks for all the awesome videos on your channel, Sean!
@@overtimearcade Thank you :)
I am now subbed and looking forward to watching more content :)
That's an excellent technique for removing the black paint! I'll have to give that a go with a cab I have.
I couldn’t believe it myself! Very messy, but so easy as compared to using magic erasers. I’ll just have to be careful to avoid any unevenness by doing it all at once I guess. And after this project, I’ve got two Williams games tucked away in the garage needing black paint to be stripped off the stenciled artwork!
Do you know why most arcade games use 10,000 to 20,000 microfarad capacitor for the filter cap it just doesn't make sense why they would use such a very large filter cap for just providing 5 volts to the IC chips it to me it just doesn't make any sense maybe somebody can comment on why because five volts is not that much the power that I see chips and I see chips shouldn't be using that much current so I'm not sure why they're using 15,000 to 20,000 microfarad which is outrageously high in large capacitance so there must be a reason as to why?
Great question, Wayne! This link might help - it explains the formula for calculating filter capacitor sizes, with examples: www.homemade-circuits.com/calculating-filter-capacitor-for/
@@overtimearcade when you do the calculation of the for the filter caps value with all the IC chips what they're going to be demanding as a current draw from the data sheets it just doesn't add up to 10,000 microfarads to 20,000 microfarads it's that's what I'm I'm very confused about because let's just say most most motherboards for arcade games have about let's just say 50 I see chips and you know each one is drawing about you know so many milliamps it just doesn't compute for a filter cap to have 10,000 microfarads to 20,000 microfarad so that's why I'm very confused and it doesn't make sense there must be another reason why they chose a very high excessive filter cap value for to just to power an arcade motherboard
@@waynegram8907 But I think filter caps like the Big Blue are filtering the voltage for the entire cabinet, which draw about 1.5-2 amps on average. So plugging that into the formula:
C = I / 2 x f x Vpp (assuming f = 100Hz, Vpp = 1, and load current requirement as 2amp)
That gives us 0.01 Farads or 10,000uF. Add some margin for safety, and you’re in the right range for filter caps commonly seen in classic arcade machines.
@@overtimearcade C= 1/2 x F x Vpp. The F=120Hz? and Vpp = +5vdc?
@@waynegram8907 AC power in the US is 60 Hz. And that's a lowercase L in the formula, not a 1. Let's say the cabinet load is 2 amps. Vpp is the maximum amount of AC ripple you want the filter cap to less pass through. Let's say 1 VAC for that. So...
C = L / (2 x F x Vpp)
C = 2 / (2 x 60 x 1) = .0166 Farads or 16,667 uF
I use spade connectors on the fuse holders for each end. It still makes a good connection and if you have to change the fuse blocks out again just pull them off and put them new one in. I had to do this to 3 different cabinets. It helped by doing exactly like you did by reflowing the solder connections to the transformers and fuse block. I was getting lower voltage from the 7vac and 12vac lines before reflowing. They should be like 15vac from the 12vac line and 9vac from the 7vac with no load on them. For the power cord you can change the plug end very easily. Just make sure the power cord does not have any nicks in it. If it does then change the whole power cord.
Good tip! It’s not that much more work to solder the connections though.
Great work! I Just picked up a ms Pacman from a yard sale …unbelievable find yes !! All original ..Lots of work to do. Trying to test my transformers to see if they are good. Where did you buy your power cord ?
Thanks! I always include a list of tools/parts used in the description of each video. Here’s where I got the new power cord:
- 8ft AC Power Line Cord www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/8%e2%80%b2-ac-power-line-cord-w-stripped-ends/
Nice trick with the paint, I've got a couple of cabs that were painted back, will have to give this a go 🙂
It works wonders - too bad the original Ms Pac stenciled artwork was already too damaged underneath the black paint. I’m currently using the same technique to strip multiple layers of red & black paint off my Joust project cabinet…
@@overtimearcade I'm looking forward to watching the Joust project, I'm slowly catching up / watching all your videos from the start 🙂
@@danotten3344 Thanks for watching -- I'm glad you're enjoying them!
REALLY enjoying this series. Makes me less afraid to tackle projects.
P.S. I would clean up the 98% original control panel and see what it looks like. That said, I would still lean toward an original overlay.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you’re enjoying them!