Great video. I also got Phil's bike fit book. It is chock full of great info and an easy read. It's basically a bike fit master class for dummies (like me). Highly recommended.
Could you discuss flat pedals with Phil at some point please Katy? I took up road cycling a couple of years ago and brought knee pain with me (from previous/other sports injuries). I stuck with flat pedals to be able to adjust position as or when the knee pain appeared in a ride, which helped, and now it's hardly ever an issue. Combination of strength built up and optimum placement/s found. So used to it and enjoying no pain that I'm not even sure I want to go clipless. What really helped too was getting some good insoles with arch support. Also noticed I do have the feet really quite far forward - centre between the ball of the foot and mid arch. Anyway, no sure what the point is other than if you could pick Phil's brain on it! Might be other like me. Thanks.
This is awesome Ive recently went to Specialized short reach drop bar 2cm narrower to match my shoulders and grip and its made a world of difference in hand/wrist comfort.
Katie & Phil - thanks for posting this video. Been dealing with shoulder and elbow pain since increasing the number of rides I do each week. Gave me some things to tweak. Much appreciated.
Super helpful - and just in time. I'm sorting out my daughter's bike fit this evening, and this will be really useful! She bought a second-hand bike, and I realised when riding with her that her handlebars were way too wide, and the whole cockpit was too long for her. We've dropped the handlebars from 42cm to 38cm, and the stem from 110mm to 90mm (all on a Giant Defy medium frame), and will be doing the final tweaks for her hand positioning tonight. Thanks again, Katie and Phil!
Spot on as always from Phil.. 😊.. when I went to a 38 bar and 170 crank length made a massive difference, same with altering the saddle fore aft and tilt surprising how much difference these small changes make 👍👍😃🚴🏻🥇Pete
Thanks Katie. One topic I’d really like to hear Phil discuss is arch support and cleat wedging. How much arch support should one be aiming for, and when to think about introducing cleat/heel/in the shoe wedges, as there seems to be debate amongst bike fitters as to their value and also which type of wedges to use. Thanks 😄
My experience is to invest in a professional assessment for cleat wedging. Just my opinion after I tried DIY resulting in severe foot pain. In my case I actually needed the correct size shoe 😂
Thank you to both you and Phil for this video 👍. Found myself going over my bike in front of the mirror in my garage after watching and found a couple of bits not quite right following me realigning everything after a taxi collided with me, not fun😳). A couple of small adjustments and even the short test ride round the block seemed to show a noticeable improvement in comfort. Have to admit I was a bit disappointed to find my bars are the right width as I was hoping for an excuse to make a cheeky upgrade 😂
Thanks for these, I've been having a little bit of pain across the tops of my knees after long rides and also a little bit of hand numbness so a few little changes to try (1 at a time obviously!) might help.
Other thing that can cause you to gravitate towards the nose is too high of a saddle. You'll unconsciously try to shorten leg length by moving forward. Great video though. Nice to hear that he can't think of a negative reason to move cleats all the way to the back. Something I'm considering trying, though I'm already pretty close.
Great info … ta very much! I moved my cleats all the way back and that really helped … top tip! PS: The cast came off my broken hand this week and I started physio with the prospect of a full recovery by year’s end! I hope to have my first bicycle rides within a week or so. Looking forward to some fine autumn rides with my X100V with PS Bagworks Rider Strap and the JJC neoprene camera case that’s really effective at keeping sweat off the camera. It also protects the camera … I know that because I was wearing the camera when I had my crash and it survived! Ride on Ducky! 🚴♂️📷😀
Converse of saddle too narrow is one that's too wide. In my case going to a narrower version of the Selle I use prevented the constant feeling that the backs of my thighs were hitting saddle wings. Only way I know how to address the problem is to try a few widths. One bike fitter I follow has said for men, go for the narrowest saddle one can use.
Katie, if that is a lightweight carbon steerer, you've got a lot of spacers -- perhaps too much, given that the bung is likely just in the stem clamp. With three or four spacers, they can move back and forth above the headset bearing, stressing the steerer tube. An improperly placed, or overly tightened bung (compression plug) can also stress the tube, causing failure. Why not invert your stem? Flipping it over so that it points upwards usually gives you 2cm of rise (for 100mm 7 degree stem), so that you can remove one or two spacers and have just 1-2cm under the stem. This will not change your stack or reach, but will reduce the stress on the steerer where the "ring of death" tends to form, around the headset bearing.
as always a great video , full off great stuff, even for a 80 year old who has, cycled almost every day since 4 years old , and still cycles at lest 4 hours every day, and does a 6 hour ride once a week , my new gravel giant bike is fantastic , but for some reason I just cant get it feeling as good as my other bikes so I will at last get a full bike fit. How do I choose a good bike fitter, as I want one to do every thing , saddle type , shoes fitts , bars . The whole works , I love your accent , Am still waiting for you and your partner to come ridding in NewZealand lots off great climbs
I found that my reach determines where my butt wants to contact the saddle. I moved the saddle forward to meet it. Big relief in irritation on the undercarriage. It also stopped the hunting for the neutral sweet spot on the saddle.
Thanks Katie, thanks Phil! My road bike is tuned in and just about perfect, can ride for hours with minimal discomfort. I have a different bike on my trainer and I've tweaked it quite a bit for indoor riding and comfort in the nether regions. I've had to tilt the saddle down, and move it forward a bit, and it's pretty good now for my mega indoor rides (50k +). Any tips for trainer bike setups?
That was excellent!! I have a question re shoes/foot pain and this happens on my gravel (MTB) and road shoes. They are both comfortable until I do a ride that has more than 2000m climbing then they get really painful (feels like the bolts are trying to screw into my feet), I’m guessing foot swelling might contribute but is there anything that could help? Positioning of cleat maybe?
Really useful info, think I need new handlebars (as you posted the video please feel free to contribute towards them 🤣) Pity Phils place is so far from Essex though.
This is a nice video for all the sporty type cycle riders but.....I don't ride a road bike. I have a cargo bike with a nice upright riding position. (Tern GSD) It's SO difficult to find information on how to dial in a fit issue for a bike that isn't a road bike, and a lot of his advice and recommendations don't really translate to a more upright (Dutch style) riding position.
Because their wrists are rotated 90 degrees inwards and in a fairly neutral position, even with wide bars, whereas road bars that are too wide encourage the wrists to collapse inwards on the hoods.
Phil and Katie please help! I am trying to sort out my vest crank length. Formulas say 160mm im currently on 170mm with 50/34rings 11/34-11sp cassette. I am worried about the effect shorter cranks will have on my ability to climb since I’ll have to press harder to move the same weight. Thank you so much
Go with the crank length that suits your leg length. You will find a tendency to spin slightly higher rpm but the issue with torque production will only manifest on the steepest climbs or all-out sprints. If you're at your limit on a steep climb you're not going to last very long anyway. Don't over think it, riding with the correct crank length may well mean that you are carrying less fatigue by the time you hit the climbs (and can produce more force) anyway.
nice things from Phil. Saddle tilt too high: Numb male bits and a painful hoo-ha for women. Also you will slide back onto the widest part of the saddle where you feel like you are sliding off the back.
Great video. I also got Phil's bike fit book. It is chock full of great info and an easy read. It's basically a bike fit master class for dummies (like me). Highly recommended.
Thanks Katie for having Phil go over easily fixed problems and thanks Phil for your clear explanations!
Great tips and video! I would add a saddle too high on the list, but maybe it's not an easy fix
Phil is a wonder to listen to...making the complicated simple. Thank you both for this quick fit clinic.
Could you discuss flat pedals with Phil at some point please Katy? I took up road cycling a couple of years ago and brought knee pain with me (from previous/other sports injuries). I stuck with flat pedals to be able to adjust position as or when the knee pain appeared in a ride, which helped, and now it's hardly ever an issue. Combination of strength built up and optimum placement/s found. So used to it and enjoying no pain that I'm not even sure I want to go clipless. What really helped too was getting some good insoles with arch support. Also noticed I do have the feet really quite far forward - centre between the ball of the foot and mid arch. Anyway, no sure what the point is other than if you could pick Phil's brain on it! Might be other like me. Thanks.
This is awesome Ive recently went to Specialized short reach drop bar 2cm narrower to match my shoulders and grip and its made a world of difference in hand/wrist comfort.
Thanks Katie, useful information once again👍
Katie & Phil - thanks for posting this video. Been dealing with shoulder and elbow pain since increasing the number of rides I do each week. Gave me some things to tweak. Much appreciated.
Super helpful - and just in time. I'm sorting out my daughter's bike fit this evening, and this will be really useful! She bought a second-hand bike, and I realised when riding with her that her handlebars were way too wide, and the whole cockpit was too long for her. We've dropped the handlebars from 42cm to 38cm, and the stem from 110mm to 90mm (all on a Giant Defy medium frame), and will be doing the final tweaks for her hand positioning tonight. Thanks again, Katie and Phil!
Spot on as always from Phil.. 😊.. when I went to a 38 bar and 170 crank length made a massive difference, same with altering the saddle fore aft and tilt surprising how much difference these small changes make 👍👍😃🚴🏻🥇Pete
Thanks Katie. One topic I’d really like to hear Phil discuss is arch support and cleat wedging. How much arch support should one be aiming for, and when to think about introducing cleat/heel/in the shoe wedges, as there seems to be debate amongst bike fitters as to their value and also which type of wedges to use. Thanks 😄
My experience is to invest in a professional assessment for cleat wedging. Just my opinion after I tried DIY resulting in severe foot pain. In my case I actually needed the correct size shoe 😂
I've found it pays to get in the ball park on initial set up and micro adjust over time 🙂
Thank you to both you and Phil for this video 👍. Found myself going over my bike in front of the mirror in my garage after watching and found a couple of bits not quite right following me realigning everything after a taxi collided with me, not fun😳). A couple of small adjustments and even the short test ride round the block seemed to show a noticeable improvement in comfort.
Have to admit I was a bit disappointed to find my bars are the right width as I was hoping for an excuse to make a cheeky upgrade 😂
Top advice from one of the best 👍
Helpful tips - I will try moving cleats back a bit as I get knee pain on longer strenuous rides 😊
Happy Birthday Katie! 🚴♀🐑📷⛰🙂
Thanks for these, I've been having a little bit of pain across the tops of my knees after long rides and also a little bit of hand numbness so a few little changes to try (1 at a time obviously!) might help.
Very informative. Thanks Katie and Phil👍👍
What about saddle height? Too high or low
Super valuable info. Thanks! I can't wait to fiddle with my fit and improve riding comfort.
Wow!!!.... I have minor some of these issues more especially pain in my neck. Allen key at the ready...!!!... with thanks..
I love these videos, always full with great tips and knowledge from a pro👍🏻👍🏻
I am From Bangladesh place help me
Amazing video!!! More bike fit videos please.
Great video but loved the outtakes the most hahaha. Also HAPPPPYYY BIRTHDAAAAYYY 🎉🎉❤❤
KK b’day … isn’t that the 20th?
Other thing that can cause you to gravitate towards the nose is too high of a saddle. You'll unconsciously try to shorten leg length by moving forward. Great video though. Nice to hear that he can't think of a negative reason to move cleats all the way to the back. Something I'm considering trying, though I'm already pretty close.
Great info … ta very much! I moved my cleats all the way back and that really helped … top tip! PS: The cast came off my broken hand this week and I started physio with the prospect of a full recovery by year’s end! I hope to have my first bicycle rides within a week or so. Looking forward to some fine autumn rides with my X100V with PS Bagworks Rider Strap and the JJC neoprene camera case that’s really effective at keeping sweat off the camera. It also protects the camera … I know that because I was wearing the camera when I had my crash and it survived! Ride on Ducky! 🚴♂️📷😀
I am From Bangladesh place help me
@@user-bh1xu3tf2mI'm from Brexit Britain - *Please* Help Me.
I get red painful palms after a long ride!some good advice to help hopefully.
KB -- Please ask Phil to show how to measure/set proper saddle location when switching from standard to short-nosed style. Thx!
Always helpful!!! Great Team!
Converse of saddle too narrow is one that's too wide. In my case going to a narrower version of the Selle I use prevented the constant feeling that the backs of my thighs were hitting saddle wings. Only way I know how to address the problem is to try a few widths. One bike fitter I follow has said for men, go for the narrowest saddle one can use.
Excellent top tips. Thanks.
All useful tips, might have to pay Phil a visit.
I need to book to see Phil again 🙂
Brilliant thanks
Katie, if that is a lightweight carbon steerer, you've got a lot of spacers -- perhaps too much, given that the bung is likely just in the stem clamp. With three or four spacers, they can move back and forth above the headset bearing, stressing the steerer tube. An improperly placed, or overly tightened bung (compression plug) can also stress the tube, causing failure.
Why not invert your stem? Flipping it over so that it points upwards usually gives you 2cm of rise (for 100mm 7 degree stem), so that you can remove one or two spacers and have just 1-2cm under the stem. This will not change your stack or reach, but will reduce the stress on the steerer where the "ring of death" tends to form, around the headset bearing.
That bike looks totally wrong to me.
@@johndoran141 she needs an endurance geometry. This is race.
as always a great video , full off great stuff, even for a 80 year old who has, cycled almost every day since 4 years old , and still cycles at lest 4 hours every day, and does a 6 hour ride once a week , my new gravel giant bike is fantastic , but for some reason I just cant get it feeling as good as my other bikes so I will at last get a full bike fit. How do I choose a good bike fitter, as I want one to do every thing , saddle type , shoes fitts , bars . The whole works , I love your accent , Am still waiting for you and your partner to come ridding in NewZealand lots off great climbs
I found that my reach determines where my butt wants to contact the saddle. I moved the saddle forward to meet it. Big relief in irritation on the undercarriage. It also stopped the hunting for the neutral sweet spot on the saddle.
Excellent advice.
Do you do bike fit tips for people that ride in a more upright position with flat bars or alt bars. All of the videos so far seem to be drop bars.
Thanks Katie, thanks Phil! My road bike is tuned in and just about perfect, can ride for hours with minimal discomfort. I have a different bike on my trainer and I've tweaked it quite a bit for indoor riding and comfort in the nether regions. I've had to tilt the saddle down, and move it forward a bit, and it's pretty good now for my mega indoor rides (50k +). Any tips for trainer bike setups?
Very helpful. Thanks.
this is really helpful advice!
That was excellent!! I have a question re shoes/foot pain and this happens on my gravel (MTB) and road shoes. They are both comfortable until I do a ride that has more than 2000m climbing then they get really painful (feels like the bolts are trying to screw into my feet), I’m guessing foot swelling might contribute but is there anything that could help? Positioning of cleat maybe?
Great advice, thanks for sharing Phil.
Katie's smiling face cures many pains ! :)
Have a fantastic weekend guys ☀️
⛰ 🐐
Really useful info, think I need new handlebars (as you posted the video please feel free to contribute towards them 🤣) Pity Phils place is so far from Essex though.
This is a nice video for all the sporty type cycle riders but.....I don't ride a road bike. I have a cargo bike with a nice upright riding position. (Tern GSD) It's SO difficult to find information on how to dial in a fit issue for a bike that isn't a road bike, and a lot of his advice and recommendations don't really translate to a more upright (Dutch style) riding position.
Yet another excuse to fiddle with the bike, thanks Katie.
What if i am using flats?
How come MTB riders ride with handlebars that are 70 to 80 cm wide?
Because their wrists are rotated 90 degrees inwards and in a fairly neutral position, even with wide bars, whereas road bars that are too wide encourage the wrists to collapse inwards on the hoods.
Thank you very much :)
Phil and Katie please help! I am trying to sort out my vest crank length. Formulas say 160mm im currently on 170mm with 50/34rings 11/34-11sp cassette. I am worried about the effect shorter cranks will have on my ability to climb since I’ll have to press harder to move the same weight. Thank you so much
Go with the crank length that suits your leg length. You will find a tendency to spin slightly higher rpm but the issue with torque production will only manifest on the steepest climbs or all-out sprints. If you're at your limit on a steep climb you're not going to last very long anyway. Don't over think it, riding with the correct crank length may well mean that you are carrying less fatigue by the time you hit the climbs (and can produce more force) anyway.
nice things from Phil. Saddle tilt too high: Numb male bits and a painful hoo-ha for women. Also you will slide back onto the widest part of the saddle where you feel like you are sliding off the back.
Great video! 👏👏👏 How many friends named "Phil" do you have? 🙆♂️
I am From Bangladesh place help me
@user-bh1xu3tf2m I'm from Brexit Britain - *Please* Help Me.
I take it "Blurry Phil" is Phil Burt's casual alter ego (and it's simplest to just call all your male friends Phil -- as a time-saver).
MTB bike fit stuff, no one seems to cover that just drop bar bikes...............
Great video and even better seeing Katie almost twerking that watt curve 🍑
First :)
The easiest fix for bike pain = get a car.
Cleats right back can cause toe overlap issues on tight turns