AMR 500 Supercharger Testing - is it as Good as the Internet Says?
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- The AMR 500 supercharger is a 500cc supercharger that sells for a very cheap price at around $200 on Ebay / wish.com. In this video, I argue that people make it out to be better than it actually is.
[DISCLAIMER] I've been told a few times that I'm an idiot and I should have known this wouldn't work and blah blah blah, keep in mind this is a review of a CHINESE "rebuilt" AMR 500. Which are basically used and worn out with a fresh coat of paint, reason being the average person would most likely end up with one of these.
I'm mostly making fun of the listings you see of these claiming that they're good to 2.0 - 2.2L, which is laughably wrong as we saw. It could MAYBE make 1-2 PSI with a tiny pulley, but it already ran nuclear hot with the pulley that was on it. I've also had some questions about the 13:1 AFR, saying that it should have been richer for boost. We never actually made any boost with this thing, so there was no need for a richer mixture.
Richard Holdener is experimenting with the AMR 500 if you want to see someone use one correctly. All hail Richard Holdener.
i am sorry brother but keep in mind that 500 says how much cfm wich indicate the max volume of air the blower will be able to make. at 5000 rpm your car will need at least 750cfm . these measures say u are doomed with a 2.2l. u need a eaton 62 or a eaton 90 . wich have 620cfm and 900 cfm . u can tune those with the size of the pulley gear.
yje more u compress the air the more u need a 9liters intercooler.
@@tripplefives1402 too much loss still
You're not going to guilt China into changing their advertising. Besides people who are building a vehicle with a mini-supercharger are already aware of China's marketing antics and know to adjust expectations accordingly. I wouldn't want to discourage people from taking on a project with this product, it's the learning process that has value anyways, not so much the contraption that results.
ents
If you had actually done your research first. Blower displacement x drive ratio ÷ engine displacement per rev ÷ 2 due to intake stroke on 4 stroke. This gives you your boost ratio Then you remove 1 atmosphere from this to get your boost pressure. So. 500 x 2.33 = 1165 2200 ÷ 2 = 1100 Then divide 1165 ÷ 1100 = 1.059 1.059 minus 1 atmosphere = 0.059 bar pressure. This is at 100% efficiency which never happens with superchargers so problem in the minus pressure wise. These superchargers get a bad reputation but it doesn't help when youtubers like yourself, donut media and grind hard fit them wrongly without doing any simple research
The crew at Donut Media just installed one on their VW Cabrio. It took it from 81 wheel hp on the dyno, to, 46.8 wheel hp.
I saw that, I can’t believe that. I hope people will stop buying these 😂
That was the wish one. He may have bought a wish one I'm not too far into it but they have legitimate ones that work pretty good for small engines. I use one in my golf cart build to spool a mini turbo. Granted a good one of these is 380+ USD but the power increase was damn good
lmao shit is funny as hell
they installed it backwards i believe
Percentage wise that's a great improvement, just the wrong direction.
There’s a lot going on here, that revolves around overestimating and miscalculating. These superchargers were intended for and fitted to 600cc engines. The Amr500 displaces 500cc’s of volume per revolution. But that is not taking into consideration of efficiency range of a roots style blower, and the air density of the blower output. The reality is roots style blowers are only efficient at low speeds, so just because it’s “rated” for 15k rpm, does NOT mean it’s actually displacing more air at that speed. Roots blowers rapidly heat up the air from friction, with a linear increase in heat directly tied to rotational speed. The reality is you wouldn’t want to spin it faster than 6000-7000 rpm. Which is around 60cfm of airflow, and your 2.2L engine at redline is displacing at least 160-170cfm of theoretical airflow. That 2.2l engine is breathing far more n/a than this blower could ever keep up with. It’s really cool to see you mock this up to your car, but this really in no way reflects the real world use case or performance of the amr blower. You definitely could have done these airflow calculations beforehand to find this wouldn’t be a good fit. I in no way intend for this to be hostile, and I hope there is value taken from this.
Also the leaking oil happens from overfilling the units, and could have to do with the speed your turning it at as well.
I had assumed it wouldn't work, however I see people putting these on their cars all the time, and Chinese Ebay sellers are selling these as if they will work with these larger engines. the video basically to get people to stop doing it.
Jerry may I hassle you with a question which you may be able to answer. Say I have a very inefficient 2.5 litre, 70hp, small carb, low compression, not built for performance. That thing is surely not consuming as much air as this Plymouths 2.2. What does this 2.2 make stock, 140hp? With far less power to start with could my feable 2.5 make use of such a small supercharger? I know there's better options but I'm just considering the Aisin rip off for novelty factor 😀
@@LivingMyBoostLife The AMR 500 is completely useless on any engine over about 1600cc. It doesn't matter how much horsepower your engine currently makes it all has to do with volume. Jerry pretty much spelled it out. Not sure how you could possibly read his post and not get it.
@@LivingMyBoostLife well, the displacement is there to stay so this supercharger would remain insufficient, if it's just inefficient due to low airflow and fuel then swap the carburetor to a bigger and better breathing one and the things would drastically change. You'll need a bigger carb in either way even if this one worked.
Worked great with my 1.2l engine, over 1bar peak boost and almost 150hp. There's lots of videos on my channel. It works with low powered 2l engine, volkswagen air-cooled engine for example. Btw Eaton M62 is not that much bigger if you choose the right one with electromagnetic clutch, I'm using it on my new build
I watched some of your vids on the AMR500 a while back, good stuff. The Eaton is tiny as well, but I decided to go with a turbo instead. I'll have a video up on it very soon.
I’m gonna have a butchers at your channel next
What are your ideas on installing one on a 650v-twin bike? It's carbureted and air cooled
So ..does anyone know if this would work on a 1.4 fiat starjet
eaton m62 is over double the displacement per revolution
amr 500
500 cc per revolution = 30.512 cubic inches per revolution
m62 = 62 cubic inches per revolution
equivalent would be 1016 cc per rev
They were initially made for Japanese Kei cars. 660CC. Not 2000CC.
2L car must have 2 supercharged.
True. My old carb'd F5A Suzuki Carry had a factory one.
Bro.. smaller pulley, lighter oil in super charger.. i have the same one on my 67 vw bug and i can keep up easily with 1914 vw’s with my baby 1600 engine.. getting on the freeway is fun and my boost gauge shows 5psi wide open which isn’t the best but definitely a huge improvement for a 44hp vw bug..
that's exactly what he needed was a smaller pulley. those little blowers ain't gonna push that large of an engine very well, especially while using that big ass pie pan of a pulley lol. They claim to be rated up to a 2.2L, but I would be very suspicious of it don't that on the stock pulley. a2a intercooler would be a must have a well after overdriving the blower because it's going to create heat.. but in reality, those amr blowers are cheap junk. Used on VW bugs, and predator v-twin powered go-karts lol.
@@boosted0079 honestly the one i had put on my car was just an experiment but it ended up working good enough to keep it on there. Going on 4 years and it still runs perfect. Just depends on application and how well each particular one was made or installed perhaps
@@mikecorleone6797 I've seen a few VW bugs with these on them, and I was fairly impressed with seeing the results. The other was a Honda Civic if I remember correctly. Smaller 1.5 or 1.8 engine. That seemed to do really well also and that Honda ended up using a much smaller pulley. Spun the blower much faster than its maximum rating lol. I never did see any follow ups on it though afterwards.
It would work on a go-cart but I was always tough, if you want to make a car go fast you need to start with a Fast car and make it go faster 🤣
@@knifethrower9733 Why? It's so much more satisfying to build a sleeper. No one expects to get beaten by a shitbox... 😂 You just watch people die inside, especially if they have their girlfriend in the car!
Its an amr500, The 500 stands for 500cc. In theory, one revolution pumps out 500cc of air, not including any losses or temperature increase or any other... math. That's just the size.
And a 2L engine has 4x 500cc cylinders, that take air every second crank revolution.
So the 500cc supercharger needs to spin four times just to fill the cylinders in one engine cycle (two crank revolutions)
I was considering adding one to my 1L 3cyl and I thought it might be too small for that lmao.
Your calculations are pointing toward smaller pulleys which may be the answer to the issue. I turbod' a 1.8L using a 1.2L turbo and it added a crazy amount of power simply because it spun so fast.
These superchargers were originally manufactured back in the 50's for carbi 4 bangers that made 30-50 HP from the factory.
It works wonders for the cars they're made for.
I've got one on my 58' Renault Dauphine Gordini and it's made it that much better.
They don't do shit on modern cars.
They can't keep up; restricts air flow that modern cars have these days
They're only good for 60 ish year old 4 banger engines.
I suppose an E30 318i would be a no go, then? My original plan was to engine swap it from an M40 to a 2L M52 and then add an Sc14, but I thought I might get impatient and stick an AMR500 to the M40 after an engine refresh
@@tambrone3352 tell me you're broke without telling me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Are these cars on finance?
Like why the hell would you cheap out on a supercharger, that 95% of are made in china to fit motorcycle engines and vintage 4cyl?
Go spend your money on parts, that are actually made for your German engine.
You never cheap out on German tech, because the tech will break without the correct parts
I saw it advertised for 0.8 to 2.0l displacement. You need a smaller pulley. I think it would be worth trying at least. I saw it works on Del sols well with 1.6l engine.
The advertising seems to be a tad random. I've seen people on forums running them on 2.2's claiming that it made a difference in power, however I think it's placebo. I don't think It's worth it to set it up for a smaller pulley.
Yeah they really work best on engines 1.6l and below. I think the inlets and outlets are too small on the supercharger. They are only like 1.5in opening. I’ve seen people make bigger flanges but these things were ultimately designed for a 660 cc engine. Id love to try this on my 1.9l bmw but I don’t want to waste money if it doesn’t make boost.
@@koolHalo3clips Yeah I forgot to mention in the video that I made 2.5" flanges for it to match the charge piping. You could put a micro V belt on it to spin it faster and make some boost for your 1.9l, but I wouldn't expect more than 5 PSI. However then you run into the problem of it possibly leaking like mine. The math suggests that it should be enough for a 2.2l, but they seem to be very inefficient; as in they don't seal well.
Imagine being crazy enough to get one of these for a single cylinder motorcycle from the 70s, it's a project
Ya China doesn't care about numbers
Go to the u pull it junkyard and find a Eaton m62. They were used on a decent amount of gm 3.8 cars around 2000. You can usually get one for 80 to 100 dollars.
u are just spot on . even the mercedes compressor it's enough or the mini with is much bigger.
@@HatersGarage take a look at mx5 eaton m45 kits I'm trying my amr500 before I pull the trigger on one, a few adaptions and it mounts almost in the identical fashion and includes the remote mount plates 🍻 it's a 2x bigger supercharger from mini-coopers and merc c230 compressors
You'd be better off with the M62 off of a Mercedes. It can be remote mounted, unlike the W body blower.
I run an Eaton m90 from a Pontiac on my Vw and it works great. Your best off picking up a junkyard blower like me.
Had an Eaton M65 on my 4 banger 8valve BMW E30 (M40B18). Got 6 psi of boost at around 5k rpms. Although couldn't feel horsepower increase, throttle response was way better and much much torque from 1200 rpms. With a welded short ratio diff and weight reduction,it was really fun.. Later swapped to 6 cylinder M50 with a snail 😂 and became man😂....
Yeah the bad thing about superchargers is you use a big chunk of your extra power turning the supercharger itself.
I'm pretty sure Donut Media just installed one of these on their Cabrio with similar results. They lost about half their horsepower after installation.
because they did it wrong.... no oil, wrong type of pulley etc...
@@eriksimca9409 they def ran that thing dry lol. so stupid.
@@eriksimca9409 The guy who mounted it for donut media has a video detaling his process, he definitely put oil. I think he broke the amr500 when he made the wider square pipe, look him up
@@eriksimca9409 under "Grind Hard Plumbing Co" they mounted one of these on a Barby jeep go cart.
The pulley ratio is 1 : 2.33 so AMR 500cc can make you 1,165 liters of air per one cycle and 2,33 liters on full revolution (two cycles). That means that it only slows you down cose there is no boost ;)
The other thing no one in the comments is talking about is the fact that scavenging has changed with the additional airflow, so without mods to the exhaust pipe, the frequency/flowrate of exhaust has increased, changing the length of the runners to correct amount may be helpful. (Since the supercharger isn't relying on pressure differentials on the exhaust side)
You could change the input and output to a larger size might help it get more air flow they are restricted from out of the box
I did enjoy the sound of crickets on the supercharger run , cause I was kinda expecting that result ...
Nice touch
I wonder how much of an improvement it would have on my 1.0 993cc geo metro 3 cylinder
pretty decent, given the size, but you Better go with a Suzuki Swift GTI Total swap, you can find It for cheap and its exactly your car best version, i Just wonder if the GTI was sold in America at all, here in Italy was a common car and i used to drive One, 1400cc DOHC 4 cyl over 100 hp was pretty fun on that very light Suzuki shoebox
@@gillespriod5509 it was sold here ,I do recall seeing them on the road.
Not sure what engine we got ,but they had more pep.
You'd probably blow it up, tbh.
If you ignore the actual real volume of air the Geo Metro sucks and presume it has a full rotation of sucking air, ignoring how much time it takes to open the valve and what's the lift and how much actual air gets in, it would suck in 3078L/min of air, at 993cc at the max RPM of 6200.
The AMR500 at 14000RPM (i wouldn't risk using a clone at full RPM, tbh) could pump 7000L/min.
So that comes down to 18.72 PSI.
In reality, it wouldn't be that much, because it doesn't suck no way near as much air. So around 70% i'd say it's a fine enough approximation (i have no idea where i could even look up the timing graph of a Geo Metro), so around 13.1PSI.
So... That, from the base 55HP, would boost it up to around 105HP. Which is decent, but it's already twice the power and i dunno the limit of the internals.
@@myrmeko, someone here in England has supercharged a Geo Metro engine using a blower from a Volkswagen TSI engine. Look up “Supercharged Liege”.
Richard Holdenner's test showed these take 28hp to turn on a LS.
i use these superchargers all the time with zero problems . you have to change out the oil from the factory to acdelco 10-4041 Synthetic ($12) . you can not have any leaks at all with the piping . when you do the pulleys you want at your motor at redline to be at 9k to get 6-7ish pounds of boost .
You have to have something capable of pumping more air than the engine itself is capable of in order to increase manifold pressure and build boost.
Mounting it level so the gear oil isnt pulled into the air flow would make a big difference. They also cant have any vacuum conditions. Air has to remain positive charged internally
I wonder if it would do any good on a 15 hp Briggs n Stratton ..or an old Wisconsin..
I think it would be perfect for that, I've pondered putting it on a go-kart.
I'm actually looking at this for my 1.3L Ka. It seems like it'd just about be a fit for it. Give me just that little bit of boost to push me over the 100hp mark.
Except it won’t it’s made for an engine half the size
@@piercemccauley7079 yeah, i figured that part out xD
Fun to watch thanks. I agree turbskis are so much better, I use to be a supercharger guy till I had a turbo charged diesel and I really don't care for SCs just like hearing the noise they make, new viewer and I like your stuff thank you for the lack of drama and music.
I've seen these do a bit better when new/custom flanges are made for the input and output, as the standard ones that come with it are a lot smaller than what they could be. I'd be hesitant as well using one of these on any engine larger than about 1.5L without at least enlarging the flanges.
Hey, man. I was looking at these AMR500's and kept seeing wild claims up to like 3.0L all over eBay but some listings only showed up to 1.8L and was tempted to get one just to mess with but didn't realize just how tiny they are and scrapped it for fear of not producing enough airflow. But I kept seeing these other remote superchargers pop up. There's no exact model number like the AMR500 but if you look up Cherokee Kompressor you'll see them start coming up. These are supposedly rated for up to a 3.5L and pictures show it attached to an inline 6. I'd LOVE to see a video on one of these things. There's a couple videos floating around on'em but nothing crazy and no real science or specs or tuning involved.
One other person mentioned the same thing, there's not a whole lot of info like you said. I'd like to get one and play with it, but I'm not in a position to blow $500 on one to do it right now.
@@HatersGarage I'm in the same boat or I'd just buy it, fab up a mount and slap it on my Suzuki, haha. It seems promising when done right though and could be decent cheap power especially with a FMIC setup.
@@HatersGarage Just wanted to give an update, I did some more research on them and found out that it's actually a Chinese knockoff of a Toyota supercharger designed for the 2TZ-FZE i4 and 1G-GZE i6. The official designation is SC14 if/when you ever decide to mess with one and they seem to create some pretty impressive power for the size, 8PSI with the right driver pulley size. And with the built in clutch they're perfect for daily driving, just have to wire it into the TPS.
They could only work on a 2l engine going like 3400rpm. IF your engine actually revs, 1.2l is the max. I think they are made for 660cc kei cars.
just get an eaton m62 or m90 the m112 is a bit large and expensive still.
Despite what the ad says, it is clearly meant for 1l or smaller engines. And based on how they sound, I don't think they were designed to spin faster than the engines rpms.
Hi, you're wrong. Every roots style supercharger will spin faster than the engine RPMs. This one is rated up to 16,000 RPM. Not that I would go that high.
@@dooby1445the ad he bought it from said 16k rpms...but it also said it would work on a 2 liter engine. The second was clearly a lie, as they are meant for sub 1 liter engines. Multiple youtubers have spun them between 12-16k, and they will leak oil or run hot. Thus, the 16k rpms may be a lie as well. Put it on a 600cc engine at 10k rpms and it'll probably make 5psi all day....put it on a 2l at 14k and it'll grenade before long.
It's leaking gear oil from the blower. This is because the seals in the blower (I'm assuming) are designed to operate in a positive pressure environment. If what your saying about the blower causing a restriction in the intake at wide open throttle, then that would mean that the oil seals in the blower were exposed to a negative pressure environment for however long it was ran at wot. Thus drawing gear oil from the blower casing.
Lol I like that you basically say outloud exactly what my brain would be thinking in the same situation
If i recall the amr500 was built for really low end power gains and just doesn't push enough air for top end Gain's. Back when i was a kid we used junkyard Eaton blowers. Could get then on old Mercedes and a few Japanese cars.
I think the modern equivalent would be the eaton tvs r200 through r340s.
We used them on gio metros and Pontiac fireflys and would spin 150-250wheel power on those little 3cyl engines.
250whp in a Geo sounds hilarious
Someone dropped the whole blown Mercedes engine in an MGB, here in London. It was quick and the torque was enough to pull a tree stump. If I had the little engine you had, I’d bolt it up to a Geo Tracker/Suzuki Samurai transmission and drop it in a Ford 100E, MG Midget, Renault Dauphine or an Austin 7. Maybe even an Austin A35. Yeah, I’d definitely stick that Eaton blower on it.
Bro did you even tube it? How would your car make more power without extra fuel!!????😊
Cool video. My first car was a dodge shadow 2.5 5speed. Oh so many memories.
Dude! This is made for 600ccm engines! It is for a 660ccm Subaru, in Japan they call them "Kei Cars". Didn´t You know that size matters?
2L is about the max you can go with these .. and the rpm range is about 6k at most
False .. pulley’s can be swapped
@@mtbridingog9083 but then at that point you over spin the charger and the life will drastically decrease
@@vcamps88 and even with different pulleys you wouldn't gain any power
@@aaaabababa lil bit extra low end torque is sometimes all you need. N/A's altitude can't breathe enough 😅
Correct, on some pages the specifications say that it is for 2.0L engines or less, I think it could work with a 1.6L
Not to take away from the fact the charger is clearly too small for displacement, but your AFR was too lean for boost, target 10.5 to 11.5 under boost.
I have an AMR500 on my 600cc bike it works really well on 10 lbs of boost and I have another pulley that gives me 14lbs, I wouldnt use the supercharger on anythig over 1600cc and thats running the supercharger very overdriven, they are probably at their best under 1200cc
I was thinking it would be good on a bike because there's no lag. Maybe I'll keep mine and use it for that one day.
The AMR 500 has a working rpm of 16,000, a 3:1 pulley ratio on a 1600cc gets you about 8 psi, as long as you're not holding revs over 5500rpm you're sweet
Good point. I wonder if you can use it on a scooter, preferably an about 250cc four stroke?
Glad you tested it! :) Good info!
That hot air intake looks great 👍
the factory intakes suck, and the ecu was incorporated in them. Since he's running MS, doesnt need that crap.
+ cold air intakes are just snake oil... does actually nothing more than looks good...
@@NitroGnome you're not very smart if you can't even be a home mechanic proficiently. You couldn't be more wrong.
@@NitroGnome Ever heard of air density?
i worked with a friend that has an amr 500 installed on a 98 mazda b2300.
we ended up with a oil cooling system running hydraulic fluid of similar viscosity to 5w20 motor oil. a little 5 psi inline oil pump forcing the fluid thru the cooler then back into the amr.
its been almost 2 years now, but when he tested with a USED blowoff valve set to 4 psi offshoot, the valve did infact open enough to release pressure.
idk about his hp gains, but it did a gps 0 to 60 almost 0.9 seconds faster when we tested on a cloudy day-about 58 f
Im sorry you had to learn the hard way. You did gain experience and thats priceless. I looked into it myself and all it does is it makes a lot of noise and makes you lose power. Just to give a heads up even proper electric turbos arent there yet. Restriction is the issue. They work awesome the 2% of the time you use them, but for regular driving will block air flow. People negate having a well in order working vehicle foremost. Keep fiddling
an electric turbo will never get there. a few simple calcs on the power required to simply compress a given volume to a given pressure in a given time is a dead giveaway.
unless you have an alternator the same size as the engine itself and are willing to dump half your produced power into that generator simply to drive the "turbo" which at this point is a centrifugal supercharger, not a "turbo". and then that also requires a motor driving said compressor capable of delivering teh power required...
50 hp is a lot of power to drive an electric motor with. ever seen how big a 50HP electric motor is?
and thats only going to give you 25-30 hp anyway. yippee...
those big blowers strapped to drag cars? they might be absorbing up to 1000HP, simply to flow enough air to GAIN 1000hp at teh shaft... meaning the engine actually had to make 2000 hp over its stock output, 1000 of it to drive the blower.
go find me a 1MW electric motor that can be lifted by hand, and doesnt require a 100T crane and wide load truck with special permits to move around. find me the 1MW generator required to drive it...
a belt and a pulley is FAR more effective than generators, batteries, speed controls, and electric motors. as is an exhaust gas driven turbine.
electric supercharging is a delusional pipedream sold by advertising teams and charlatans with no concept of basic physics, electrical theory, or mechanical designs. and they rely on the fact that you dont either!
Hard to tell but it looks like you were welding on the car with the battery still connected? Never recommend doing that
For the dodge 2.2l you need to find all the parts to convert it to a turbo 2.2l. I had one, it was a lot of fun.
True! You could yard most of what you need from a wrecking yard and just bolt it on. The 2.2 Turbo Lebaron GTS I has was stone stock and it was fast as hell!
@@Jamespennington71 had a 91 daytona shelby with a garrett t2, modified a413 and quaife lsd. Man that thing was a blast at 15psi. unfortunately I blew out the input shaft on the trans and the back window got shot out, she ended up rotting in my parents back yard and I sold the fun stuff and scrapped it in 2013. Sure miss it tho. Poor girl deserved better.
@@frostbite1991How was life with the quaife?
They look like great bits of kit, though I heard someone say it is really loud/irritating on the highway?
I am very tempted to put one in our fun road trip car. (Practical enough to drive to the nation’s most fun roads, but fun enough to drive that it’s worth going to them).
@@piedpiper1172 Never had issues with it, car sounded fine on the highway. If your diff is loud, it probably has bad gear mesh and needs spaced. Not all diffs can just be slapped in, they need properly spaced. Why some people were probably hearing noises.
@@frostbite1991 thanks!
Watch robot cantina's video on these superchargers, they run really hot so they can make less power, and if you draw vacuum through them they loose oil as you showed, but idk like you said its just too small
Yeah I've been following his content on it. They do run nuclear hot, and the lobes just don't seal well. It seems that the rebuild quality just isn't there.
@@HatersGarage runing a turbocharger into the AMR 500 is the solution
Running a turbo INSTEAD of the AMR500 is the solution. 😉
@@michaelblacktree But bigger air
Check out robotcantina a 420cc cement mixer engine with fuel injection and a amr 300 supercharger in a Prius
*honda
Omg a Sundance!! My first car in high school!! Drove it till the doors literally fell off!! Was black with a metallic orange stripe down the hood.. and body parts off a shadow.. drove it till I got my 62 fury.
It was my first car too, I drove it everywhere as a teenager
I wish they would make a 1000cc version, just elongate everything a bit. It's so tempting with how cheap these are but man are the applications limited. It's nice to see an actual video with one, when I was researching these it was 90% speculation.
I'm sure you were already aware, but you'd need like four of those for a 2.0L to make real boost. Got some plans for putting one of these on a lawnmower engine ;)
I don't know much about cars but doesn't the forced induction mean you need to change the air to fuel ratio? More air, more fuel needed otherwise you wouldn't overcome the parasitic load, right?
The advertisement in eBay is misleading, the amr 500 is rated for engines with upto 1L
Sounds sick can't wait to try one on my car
It literally made his car slower.
At least it sounded faster. 👀
Yeah man you are 💯% Correct and these are not re-manufactured units they're dirty, used and 3/4s worn out from China! They spray paint them and sell them as a good deal for a re-maned unit, if they were actually re-maned that is! So yeah Unfortunately it is what it is and isn't basically. It's your money and you entitled to waste it for junk absolutely. But if you really want to make boost, go with a used Eaton supercharger off the Mercedes I believe they are a M-61 and are actually made to use on a engine and they don't suck their gear lube into the blower and destroy your crap! Also there is nothing available as for rebuild kits at least here in the US nor Europe to rebuild these air pumps their selling everyone as a fake supercharger! I know someone who even tried to source replacement bearings for the insides of these air pumps and turned out he could only get the ball bearings and the needle bearings somehow don't exist via their part #s 🤔 So if you can't find a bearing off the shelf to rebuild these POS things...... Ya may want to think about how people in China are supposedly able to rebuild these things??? SMFH! But yes.....you found your answers! Do they work? Yes for a few minutes! Are they something that you can just bolt on as a power adder and not have problems with or do damage to your engine? ABSOLUTELY Not! But if you're on a budget and wish to play with one.....no ones stopping you from doing so! Just take it from people who have had the privilege of finding out in advance for you, it's not worth the painful experience to find out the hard way! But if you're looking for a project and want to really experiment with one, take them apart find out their weaknesses and strong points then try and refine them? Then here's another option for ya.....but these things aren't something that you bolt on and you have instant power let alone no problems with them, that's a definite answer! Good video and glad someone here in the states has finally made a video about these things and how big of a miss representation they really are! I see them everywhere for sale anymore because they can't give them away at this point! Great review and thanks for doing so again! 👍
What he said. I had assumed they would have at least changed the seals, but clearly not.
Try 3-3.5 crank/sc gear ratio. Do not use intercooler for such a low boost. Make a tensioner, the belt will slip on higher rpm. Tune it again. It will do the job 😉
Dude u dumb these were designed for a fking 600cc engine
Thank the car gods I'm not the only one who can math! With the 3.5 and a water to air cooler your looking at 14psi to 5300rpm... sounds pretty damn good to me. How can you get so close and give up over a pulley? 😔
Not that it would have made a difference but I believe it says to mount those level for the gear oil purposes
Hmm, I didn't know that.
Hanging this whole build on a Chinese supercharger is a ballsy move.
What you have their is the Chinese Re-production units. You can get AMR500 Units that are "genuine" refurbs, although take the term refurb with a pinch of salt. I always rebuild the unit with new bearings and seals( $40 in brgs and seals, takes about an hour)
I See everyone install these incorrectly. They are a positive displacement unit, so the throttle body should on the INTAKE side of the charger. These units do not work well in a Blow-Through configuration (They are not centrifugal).
I, like yourself, Installed the Unit like you did. The engine LOST power. I Then did a ton of pipework and mounted the throttle body BEFORE the charger on the Intake/ Air filter and i gained 40hp (Talking a small 1.3L Engine here). The unit also runs a lot quieter and sounds like a charger instead of an air raid siren.
There are videos on my channel from my race car with the AMR500 Unit installed.
Interesting how it made that sort of difference. With the throttle wide open its a straight pass through either way, maybe a bigger throttle body would have also solved the problem.
@@HatersGarage I thought the same thing. Didn’t work. What worked was what I did above. Can’t explain It. Doesn’t make sense. But proof was in the execution.
Had to turn the volume so far down it was almost off and can still hear him rumble strip'n in my ear😂
You're too late, I'm in your brain now
@@HatersGarage Jajaja.....
Don't ever be tempted to try and get more boost while keeping the compression high cause you'l send a piston through the block or blow it up some other way. Naturally aspirated high compression + low boost is as good as you'l be lucky enough to get. But high compression+ high boost = flying pistons...
I think the AMR 500 is a good fit for your engine and your craftmanship !
I work in a metal shop and yeah cutting aluminum all abrasive wheels cause a wicked stink, we use them obviously but also the little carbide saw blades but I avoid those as much as possible they are dangerous! A coworker was back gouging a boat keel with one and it kicked back and caught his papper hood right in the clear lense and it went through it like butter and zipped into his nose about 1/4", the only thing that stopped it was the opening suze it bound on the lense trim ring but if he hadn't had any PPE on it he would have either been chopped up bad or dead they are no joke..... He was an experienced guy and it also had a guard on it also so could happen to anyone.
I've heard that as you get more experience working with power tools the more likely you are to get hurt, because you're not afraid of them anymore and you get careless
LOL, I was going to try one on my 210hp 2000 Honda Prelude 2.3L VTEC engine. So I would lose power obviously. I thank you for saving me the trouble. Only thing I can think of is using two of them at once, maybe co0mpund supercharging? Would probably want some methanol injection for pinging issues.
Two of them would probably make a few PSI. A beefy intercooler would probably keep things cool without water meth as well. At that point you may as well just get a bigger supercharger for a similar price, I've had about 8 people tell me to get a Eaton m62
Or a small snail with a good tune. Would be cheap and have good gains and be easy to upgrade
real talk, this video was real funny to watch. love the content !
Thanks!
Knowing me I’ll just mount it for the noise but won’t any hoses run it to the throttle body just throw a big ass cone filter on the inlet side and have fun with the sound
Turbo is the way to go with small engines but there's a reason top fuelers are blown
Maybe don’t use an intercooler if you’re not moving enough air put it straight to the throttle body because it might not be enough air to cause detonation usually a lot of air with heat is when you need a intercooler
Yeah .. I remember when I supercharged my Briggs and Stratton lawnmower
That's something most people can't say
Bro im glad you exist cause if i baught that shit id be pissed af 😑 and odds are it might have happened
why do you need an intercooler on a supercharged car
Very cool video. I was hoping for a small increase. But it is what it is . Was considering one of these for a 1.5L Honda engine. I think after seeing you results I’ll just do a small turbocharger and be done . 😎👍.
It might work on a Citroen 2CV, Renault Dauphine or similar size engine.
The vacuum on the super charger is PULLING the oil out, it's just not turning fast enough. But, I too don't believe two more thousand RPMs would do the job! But MAYBE! When I first saw them, I thought, not enough CFM...
But, you get - WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHH!!!
Cool project, sucks it didn't work, but you answered a question a lot of us had. Now if you could get 3, hook them up "human-centipede" style, and report back lol
That would be hilarious.. (and expensive)
At least it sounded better though 🤣
Well if you want more power first things first build an engine that can take the power! Add more power and remove structure from the area that holds the power! Brilliant!
intake radius is wild also, but I don't have one looks bonkers to me
I'm gonna get one of these for my 1.0 geo metro. As gutless as it is this has to do something to help.
This should work just fine on a Geo engine. It will still be gutless, just less gutless.
ive been interested in these for a while and still am. dude ordered off temu and got exactly what he paid for.
problem is he didnt do any research.
always research before you buy.
their fine rebuilt if used on the right size engine. these really arent even good for 1.6l its more like 1.2l max. its a 500cc blower. you would have to spin it 4 times its capacity to fill 2.0l
put it on something under 1000cc or 1l and they do quite well and dont kill themselves.
they were designed for the 600cc cars people. kei cars. not a 2.2l engine.
If only we had a compressor map for these AMRs
Just so you all are aware the AMR 500 is ment for motors SMALLER THEN 1.4L or less!!! Basicly Ford model T, V-Twin lawn mowers n such
use a eaton m90 supercharger that blower was installed in the 3.8 v6 engine and is very dependable
look on the bright side....at least you made space for a turbocharger. :)
This supercharger is actually really famous here!! They slap it on 660 to 1000 cc kei cars
Yeah those are things I've been told it actually works really well on.
Angle grinder 👍
Cheapo bearings? Can it benefit from high quality (American) bearings prior to 1st operation?
But are these blowers for 250cc 2 stroke ?? Flip flop darg bikes if ya know what I mean
You’re awesome bro and I love your video fuck the haters! This is awesome and there’s a comedic element to this that is very much appreciated by the viewers. Thank you for this video and I hope you get a bunch of subscribers
If you had actually done your research first.
Blower displacement x drive ratio ÷ engine displacement per rev ÷ 2 due to intake stroke on 4 stroke.
This gives you your boost ratio
Then you remove 1 atmosphere from this to get your boost pressure.
So.
500 x 2.33 = 1165
2200 ÷ 2 = 1100
Then divide 1165 ÷ 1100 = 1.059
1.059 minus 1 atmosphere = 0.059 bar pressure. This is at 100% efficiency which never happens with superchargers so problem in the minus pressure wise.
These superchargers get a bad reputation but it doesn't help when youtubers like yourself, donut media and grind hard fit them wrongly without doing any simple research
i had 1 years back , fitted it to a 1L motor 8000rpm . it would run out of boost around 120kmh
3:41 Definitly why i liked and subscribed 🤣
I have a 1997 saturn sc1 eith a 1.9L engine, do you think it might work for it? Max rpm is 7000 and i hit 6300 rpm easy. Or might it just cut my hp in half?
Well could work for a 2-2.2 liters , if that engine does not rev high , and has a not so good volumetric efficiency to begin with.
But I do give you , that they could be more descriptive about what the charger can and can not do.
Interestingly i found these advertised as max 14000 rpm and 500ccm per rev max. That supposedly yields 7000 liters of air per minute , where it would still be Just making loss overall.
Assuming an engine with 10 to 1 compression ratio to begin with , a 0.2 bar boost is well whitin reason as a small performance bump. That would mean an engine that can not take more Than 5800 liters of air.
Given a 2 liter 4 stroke that be a redline of approx 5500 rpm.
If you got a smaller engine , like a 1.4 liter one , it could rev to about 7500-8000 rpm.
As rpm climbs and volumetric efficiency decreases , the actual boost pressure will rise.
So actually you need to have a blow off valve set to 0.2 bar , and you need an electric or some other type of valve after it. Thst needs to stay shut above a certain rpm. That depends on the engine and its ve curve. Basicly a 2 step blow off setup. Thatway near peak tourqe rpm , where ve is about near its highest , you won't overboost and have knocking. And at higher rpm where ve would start to drop , you get a slightly rising boost curve. That makes the powerband expand to higher rpm. And thats a decent tune. An other solution is decreasing the compression ratio of the engine to begin with. Then you can have higher boost without knocking , and not need a multi step blow off valve.
I do plan to get one my self, for an 1250 or so ccm fiat engine. For that ,its a good match.
Ohhh, geez- that's kinda lean for a forced induction set up brother... I run my turbo RB30 R31 Skyline at about 11.7/11.8... The lower the boost the leaner you can get away with though. I would seriously think about making it a bit richer for the safety of those factory cast pistons and powdered metal rods... If it gets a bit hot, you get a bit of slightly shitty fuel or you hot lap this thing at the track or do a few WOT runs on the street back to back that lean mixture will make it more likely to detonate and break a ring land on one or more pistons... Even going WOT throttle in hot weather can be troublesome and induce knock strong enough to hurt the pistons and big end bearings (which could take out the crank if your not lucky)
You're absolutely right. However this particular setup wasn't actually making any boost, so I wasn't concerned with it.
I run 12.0-12.2 on a heavily boosted engine on E85 at nearly MBT.
Hot weather it runs around 11.7/11.8 though.
@@HatersGarage Ahhh, ok- I understand. All good bro.
@@kirbyswarp That's a little lean for E85 bro! It all depends on how you set your A/F ratio gauge, whether it reads Lambda (Lambda is a completely different scale) or set to read the A/F ratio where it should run 10.8 - 10.5 to get that sweet spot. In all honesty, E85 has a much broader tuning window in terms of usable air fuel ratios than gas. You can get away with a lot more each way of stoichiometric with any alcohol based fuel- but it should show different A/R ratios with each fuel if tuned correctly... You'll pick up a bit of power running a bit richer with E85, it likes a rich mixture and is actually an "oxygenated" fuel with O2 molecules in it's make up. Oxygenated fuels always make more power with a richer mixture
Es por que agregaste el interculer no lo lleva o no lo llena este supercargador
Why did you put a blow off valve on a supercharger? Thats not needed/
I have a 1.2 fiat 500
Should i get an amr 300 or a 500?
Damn, glad I went with a 14-71 after seeing this.
Maybe put a smaller sprocket on the supercharger to increase it's rpm?
Great video. This is what RUclips is all about.