1996, Mexico Beach FL. I was out on a boogie board as a young kid who just learned how to swim swim. That year the jellys were real bad and hurricane season was in full effect. Coming from Ohio, yearly to visit my grandparent on 12th street (The whole town was wiped out few years ago, 25 miles east of PCB) It was just unfortunate events one after another. I went out in the surf (In that town there are no flags, just a sandbar and a pier and a jetty) I was floating and my parents started arguing (probably over my newborn baby sister crying, also they were probably intoxicated from meff and marijuana) and I always wanted to visit the sandbar at the parallel end of the pier which was 1/2 mile away. I was warned that the water gets 20 feet deep before the sandbar and I was very afraid of depth. I knew you could float out there and stand up because I saw people do it all the time, but I was too young and told sharks can jump the sandbar and get stuck (which is true, those weren't dolphin finds circling around, especially near the cape. I wasn't really paying attention and thought the waves bring you back towards shore. There I am, looking down in the water for anything that might sting me again, I look up and the persons on the beach looked like ants man. I realized the waves were carrying me away and eventually I PASSED the sandbar somehow and I could see people moving their arms and my dad started swimming towards me but turned back and started running east pointing me that direction. I knew I was probably gonna be in big trouble so I paddled on that 90's green/pink boggie board for what felt like way longer than what a normal 60ft out would have been. Basically the whole family explained to me that's what a undertoe/riptide is and my mom and dad were so worried. After that I was only allowed to swim no more than the two wave breaks out, and wasn't allowed to go out with my family when they went to PCB because the surf is much more difficult and my cousin drowned with yellow flags up. I haven't swam in an ocean (i know it's a gulf but) since I got stung probably 20 times by those nasty blue ribbon looking jellies and had a grouper put it's mouth over my foot and greet me and got a nasty URI from swallowing sea water but.
As a beginner I remember to think that going all the way to the sand and walk a few meters to get to the outside through the channel was a waste of time but the truth is that it's SO worth it. Great video Filipe. Looking forward to meet you again in the lineup "mate" :)
I was afraid to do this today, the rip I kept getting into was too strong! Is it safe to do this? When you get out to the back are you able to get out of the rip?
Nice question Brie. You should use rip current when you are an experienced surfer and know the beach well. If in doubt don't do it. Want to try it out? Do it in a small day of waves, because there is less water moving and the current is not so strong. In your experience, if you get too outside, you can exit the rip current by paddling parallel to the beach, in direction of the waves. The waves will bring you to the shore. If you find yourself too far out in the ocean and in danger, stay on your surfboard and sign for help. Never leave your surfboard because its a floating device that will keep you afloat! Try to relax and wait for help. In the majority of the situations paddling parallel to the beach will work out. Remember to respect the ocean and your abilities at all times. If in doubt, don't paddle out. Asking a lifeguard or experience surfer can help you having a more real perspective of what the surfing conditions are. Take care and enjoy your surfing.
If you are in a rip that leads out, you are supposed to swim perpendicular to the current. But will you be able to recognize that? Also, you might end up heading into some other hazards. Or there could be other currents that lead you out too far sometimes. Not usually, but you need to know your area. However if you are a surfer, it will lead you out past the surf zone, and you can paddle into the waves to get in generally. Are you comfortable swimming and treading water in rough water? You will probably be ok. Stay calm and make sure you don't get too cold. Your respect for the sea is wise.
Think of it as the moving conveyor like at an airport! Its only dangerous if you don't know about it and burn your energy swimming against the current.
This should be used by experience surfers, in the beginning tolearn how to surf it's not recommended. Rip currents can be strong and dangerous, you should have a clear picture about it when using them. And what to do if the current is too strong. So they should be used by more experienced surfers.
I'm surprised there aren't more videos like this.
Felipe, I have always wanted to know what a "channel" was... and you answered my long-wondered question! Thank you so much, Amigo!
Happy to help you understand it, thank you too. Cheers.
Rip current is so useful this time.
1996, Mexico Beach FL. I was out on a boogie board as a young kid who just learned how to swim swim. That year the jellys were real bad and hurricane season was in full effect. Coming from Ohio, yearly to visit my grandparent on 12th street (The whole town was wiped out few years ago, 25 miles east of PCB) It was just unfortunate events one after another. I went out in the surf (In that town there are no flags, just a sandbar and a pier and a jetty) I was floating and my parents started arguing (probably over my newborn baby sister crying, also they were probably intoxicated from meff and marijuana) and I always wanted to visit the sandbar at the parallel end of the pier which was 1/2 mile away. I was warned that the water gets 20 feet deep before the sandbar and I was very afraid of depth. I knew you could float out there and stand up because I saw people do it all the time, but I was too young and told sharks can jump the sandbar and get stuck (which is true, those weren't dolphin finds circling around, especially near the cape. I wasn't really paying attention and thought the waves bring you back towards shore. There I am, looking down in the water for anything that might sting me again, I look up and the persons on the beach looked like ants man. I realized the waves were carrying me away and eventually I PASSED the sandbar somehow and I could see people moving their arms and my dad started swimming towards me but turned back and started running east pointing me that direction. I knew I was probably gonna be in big trouble so I paddled on that 90's green/pink boggie board for what felt like way longer than what a normal 60ft out would have been. Basically the whole family explained to me that's what a undertoe/riptide is and my mom and dad were so worried. After that I was only allowed to swim no more than the two wave breaks out, and wasn't allowed to go out with my family when they went to PCB because the surf is much more difficult and my cousin drowned with yellow flags up. I haven't swam in an ocean (i know it's a gulf but) since I got stung probably 20 times by those nasty blue ribbon looking jellies and had a grouper put it's mouth over my foot and greet me and got a nasty URI from swallowing sea water but.
Sweet vid! that fellow had all the waves to himself!
True!! 😀
Perfect surf session!!
Cheers
seriously
that was the most amazing part
As a beginner I remember to think that going all the way to the sand and walk a few meters to get to the outside through the channel was a waste of time but the truth is that it's SO worth it.
Great video Filipe.
Looking forward to meet you again in the lineup "mate" :)
Thanks Hugo! There are some things that come with experience and this is probably one of them. Cheers.
Nice video, this kind of analysis is rare
Thanks Ethan!!
Good basic description of Rip's
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you for watching! Cheers.
I was afraid to do this today, the rip I kept getting into was too strong! Is it safe to do this? When you get out to the back are you able to get out of the rip?
Nice question Brie.
You should use rip current when you are an experienced surfer and know the beach well.
If in doubt don't do it.
Want to try it out? Do it in a small day of waves, because there is less water moving and the current is not so strong.
In your experience, if you get too outside, you can exit the rip current by paddling parallel to the beach, in direction of the waves. The waves will bring you to the shore.
If you find yourself too far out in the ocean and in danger, stay on your surfboard and sign for help. Never leave your surfboard because its a floating device that will keep you afloat! Try to relax and wait for help.
In the majority of the situations paddling parallel to the beach will work out.
Remember to respect the ocean and your abilities at all times.
If in doubt, don't paddle out.
Asking a lifeguard or experience surfer can help you having a more real perspective of what the surfing conditions are.
Take care and enjoy your surfing.
@@FilipeAnjosSurf thank you Filipe
If you are in a rip that leads out, you are supposed to swim perpendicular to the current.
But will you be able to recognize that? Also, you might end up heading into some other hazards. Or there could be other currents that lead you out too far sometimes. Not usually, but you need to know your area.
However if you are a surfer, it will lead you out past the surf zone, and you can paddle into the waves to get in generally.
Are you comfortable swimming and treading water in rough water? You will probably be ok. Stay calm and make sure you don't get too cold. Your respect for the sea is wise.
You could have said it clearer by saying 'avoid the white water and paddle towards the clear blue water'
I guess, but for beginners highly dangerous huh?
Think of it as the moving conveyor like at an airport! Its only dangerous if you don't know about it and burn your energy swimming against the current.
So many people die in these currents
I really could have used this when I was learning how to surf.
:)
This should be used by experience surfers, in the beginning tolearn how to surf it's not recommended. Rip currents can be strong and dangerous, you should have a clear picture about it when using them. And what to do if the current is too strong. So they should be used by more experienced surfers.
@@FilipeAnjosSurf i'm beginner. n usually use this chanel..(i only go to water if under 4 feet swell 👌)