I went through similar efforts trying to fix a similar controller. It's doesn't worth the amount of work if only for value of controller. It is the joy of seeing things working again and the fun of finding better ways, trying all possibilities and avoid bigger trouble. I fixed a lot of different staff and gave away. Biggest challenge for me is Mrs easily gone mad when she sees my table during a project.
that bridge work was AMAZING i cant believe it was possible, i was watching thinking no way will that be doable but wow im genuinely awed, seriously its like a piece of art. if i managed that id take a hd pic, blow it up, print and frame it beside the board. forget about the controller at that point and display my mad skills, your becoming an artist with that soldering iron, bravo and deep respect.
I was really praying for you there at the end. I admire your tenacity and your skills are getting so much better from when you started all those vids ago. Really enjoying your work.
As more and more stuff I watch I more and more realize how many junk are sold. And that's right, you skills are improved a lot amazing, I glad I subbed a long ago and found you.
At the beginning when looking at the traces, I said to myself, please put wires on the port first at the approximate lengths and not put the port and then try to put the wires. YOU DID NOT disappoint!
I am trying to catch up on you Vince, if only we had a nation of problem solving and working long hours. we would be on top of the world through guys like you Vince. Well done.
well done,...i admire your tenacity and fault finding skills...this video took an hour, and taught me more in that time than anything else could...great work and a great video !
No way would I think it was easy to repair those traces I can see how minute they are and I shake so much I would have soldered all the traces together It's just marvelous to see what you actually accomplish in your videos it's just wonderful to watch
I know this is an old video, Vince, but Jesus Christ... after the rather heavy handed microUSB repair I was beginning to question your soldering abilities. Then you totally redeemed yourself with that unreal trace repair. That was a work of art! Even if it didn’t immediately fix the controller.
I'm amazed that I see so many modern game systems and controllers broken. I used to throw my old Nintendo and Sega controllers on the floor yet they still work perfectly to this day! It seems that modern stuff will break simply by giving it an angry look!
Not sure if this is a regional thing, but for a board on a board I believe the term is "daughter board". (Not trying to be pedantic, it's just the most helpful thing I can add)!
Here are a tip of someone that have being fixing his own controller with scraps for years. 28:54 If you see analog stick is stuck in a corner or going wild 99% of the time the problem is a broken/worn out potentiometer or a broken tracer. And some general tips for fixing any kind of electronics. And buy finer wires. Like 0.2mm enameled cooper wire. They would have made the repair of this 20:02 and this 37:07 a lot easier. Just remember to pass the wire on fire to burn the isolation when doing tracer repairs. A cheap way to get fin copper wire is to strip stranded power cables but they are not coated/insulated and that would make this 20:02 repair a little more trickier. If possible buy a soldering hot air station. This is the right tool for soldering small things.
I wouldn't mind a wired xbox one controller tbh. I was about to cry when the usb port wasn't working the second time 😢😭 I'm glad you got it more fixed than when you got it, Vince! Well done
It appears that several components are missing by the USB port. If you look at the pads labeled R7 D14 D15 D17 D16 they are tinned but no caps or resistors between them. I don't own an Xbox so I don't knoe if that's how it's supposed to be or not. Maybe the repair guy used a heat gun to remove the old USB port and just blew off the components. You might compare it to another board. You can see the pads at 6:28.
It's quite common for PCBs to have unpopulated pads, in his case those pads are unpopulated on the XBX controller as can be seen here www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=43204.0
I would invest in some fine bare wire for stuff like this. Really really fine, like 38 AWG (0.1 mm diameter). We have a little bobbin of it at work that has been a lifesaver for this kind of fine modification or repair.
Hey Vince love your videos. Finer guage enamel wire can be salvaged out of phone wall chargers or pcb's with small transformers works great for those small pins and traces then stick it all down with that UV solder mask pen
Vince I hope you left the eBay seller negative feedback 👎 I have a idea , you said you have trouble filming .. you should buy some really good but faulty filming equipment &fix it 🎥
I feel a revisit is in order for this controller. Knowing you Vince, you won't let this best you. I have faith you will figure it out and repair it in the future.
Thanks mate, hopefully when I finish all 6 I will have a better understanding of the controllers so I might be able to go back and fix what is unfixable for me at the moment :-)
You didnt give up. Respect to you Vince. A friend is going in for some brain surgery but I have suggested you may want to have a go. Let me know. PLEASE PLEASE get some helping hands
Thanks Emma, when I was doing this I thought to myself how stressful it must be for surgeons doing heart surgery. I do have some helping hands but it is a massive unwieldly thing. I might get those cheap little ones with the magnifying glass attached to them :-)
I tried the ones with built in magnifier. AVOID. Best bet is to get a set of helping hands which are good quality (cheap ones move when you let them go after adjusting) and separate magnifing glass that can attach to a worktop. Use a separate light also.
Somebody didn’t remove that shield, The one without the shield was a launch version of the controller which didn’t have those shields. The one with the shield was a revision of the controller which was released shortly after launch. Those launch controllers wirelessly synced via infrared and the Kinect which the Xbox one S doesn’t support so that won’t work wirelessly on a non launch console.
Hey, I've got a tip for you for increase your soldering abilities. You could put some of the soldering material on the cable ( like soldering it into the cable ) and then you just need to put the cable close to the pin/part you need to sold and it will make things easier.( I think)
For the first one(right analog stick and right trigger) its a common issue where the PCB cracks right in the the middle of the right stick contacts. the traces for the right trigger run though that point as well.
Great job! So very close! One thing I would say - it's worth getting some super fine coil wire (winding wire 0.1mm). It's far easier to fix traces with wire like that! It's very frustrating when you get somethink like this controller where someone has worked on it previously =/ It looks like they swapped the stick and gouged the traces at that point. Maybe then the micro USB connector broke off. The micro USB connector can get snagged in the case when reassembling - I suspect they also broke that too. Maybe the wireless was a fault caused by something they did too.
Thanks Chris, I never noticed the stick had been replaced. I was sure it was going to work after sorting the scraped tracks. Gutted when it didn't sync up. Hopefully the next 5 will be a little bit easier. When you use the fine coil wire do you scrape off the last few millimetre of insulation (enamel????) at the ends to expose the copper or just solder it straight onto the insulation hoping that the tiny bit of exposed copper at the cut end will make the contact?
With that type of wire you find you can usually just heat the end with solder and flux and the coating slowly melts back. It's so fine, it's finer than hair! But it does make those super thin traces really easy to deal with! That thumbstick, look at the point where you zoomed in to fix those broken traces, you can see the solder points on the stick look like they've been worked on - it's clear to me that someone swapped that before you got to it!
for stuff like this, you could take some enamel(?) copper wire, the stuff you make motor windings and inductors out of (so you know where to get it) there are sometimes absolutely tiny gauges used that are easier to solder to something like this connector. thats way easier than dealing with those rather thick wires
With traces that small it's easier to just bride the gap with solder. I've only done for one or two traces but never that many. As for the power off issue, a well known fault is with a certain capacitor (C31) that shorts out. Removing it solves that problem.
Vince please check and see if the little antenna cable is running from the back board to the joystick board. That is the thing that will give you wireless capability and if it isnt there that would explain your problem.
you could start using enamelled copper wire just like Louis Rossman you already watched does! pretty easy to use in these cases. (you can source it from broken motors like a rumble motor) :) comes in a bunch of sizes too! also a tip i use a lot, try to dip your wires in the flux, instead of smearing it across your receiving solder item. especially on micro-usb ports you avoid it getting on all nukes and cranies! ^_^ edit: have only seen half a vid when i commented :P you already using enamelled wire (magnet wire as you described it). why not on usb micro port too then?
Thanks, I thought it might be too stiff on the micro USB port. My thinking was when I bend it to get it to go to the cap/resistor etc.then it may snap off from the tiny pins. Maybe it might have worked better if I used it. Maybe next time I could try it to see how it goes :-)
@@Mymatevince you just wouldnt have to coil it up. If you get smaller diameter one, they get pretty flexible. Never be afraid to use small diameter wire. As you can see the traces are really small themselves. I have to admit you ultimately did a really great job using the wires you used. I thought they would be too bulky to move around but you proved me wrong. We may try to advise you on certain things we have encountered but keep in mind we too learn from you a lot! I would have never tried fixing and soldering on an iphone.. yet you managed it. Great content! Keep it coming!
Those traces were cut, likely during diagnosis of the fault by a repair technician at some point. Also keep in mind a big blob of solder doesn't mean a strong solder joint Keep trying you will succeed sooner or later.
Question, for those traces have you thought about looking into those circuit writer pens? This video was incredibly interesting and you have been an inspiration for me, I have repaired an n64, Gameboy color, dslite, and a PS3 thanks to your videos. Thanks again from the backwards state of Georgia!
I buy a lot of faulty stuff to fix from eBay and I get that all the time. 'Faulty' sometimes means 'It's had a sledgehammer taken to it' and 'Some parts might be missing' can mean 'There's no motherboard, disc drive or power supply. In fact, it's just the case!'
@@fadetonoirfilms Yeah...I saw a video from another RUclipsr who was buying and fixing broken Xbox's. There was 1X. It said basically "doesn't work". He opened it up, there's no motherboard. Yeah, I guess it doesn't work!
@@StormsparkPegasus I bought an X last week that said 'doesn't boot'. It was just an update error, easy fix. Saw another one today that says 'main board had gone'. Not touching that one - sounds like the seller knows more than they're letting on but doesn't want to be specific. Could mean anything from 'I spilled my drink on it' to 'The motherboard is literally not there anymore'!
Almost wanted to dislike this vid, because of the despair I could hear in your voice! You have patience, I would have chucked it out of the window lol! You did very well to get it working as well as it did! Good luck with the rest and keep up the great vids mate!
13:02 For soldering those wires to the Mini USB port or such small components in general: use a different tip! there are those connical bent ones (HAKKO calls them J01 J .. etc.) with 0.4mm tip size, those are perfect for such jobs! I am using those (equivalent) ones on my Ersa. Look around for some fitting your iron, don't know which one you have ... Greetings from Germany!
Amazing work. Just wanted to chime in to say that even if the controller didn't want to work with the console, you can update it using the Xbox Accessories app on Windows. It's a little known official app on Microsoft's store. Cheers.
@My Mate Vince the sheild over the Xbox wireless controller means it's a gen1 controller gen 3 has a slightly different wireless chip and has no sheild what you see is a board to board interconnect not sheild tabs. From what I can see the trigger isn't working because it uses the magnetic field of a transistor or magnetic pad depending on generation I would also check for a short on caps near the battery holder. I know all this because I convert Xbox and PS4 pads to archade pads.
I have at least 2 gen 1 xbox one controllers that i have trouble syncing as well. I have two xboxes so they are always being switched around. i have found that i can only sync them with a brand new fresh set of batteries and even then sometimes i have to mess with them to get it to sync. sometimes I have to hold the sync buttons on the controller and the xbox and release them simultaneously or at different times or move the controller closer or farther away to get it to sync. One time i gave up and went to set the controller on the coffee table which was about 6 ft away. when i set it down it synced right up. so maybe just try a few different things. but once they are synced, when they are powered back on they connect right away. we have since bought additional controllers and labeled the problem controllers and only use them with the xbox they are synced to. Great video though! your perseverance and patience is impressive.
Hey Vince. So I can help you on your xbox one controller job lot this will save you time and money. 1. the xbox one controller is two separate boards the bottom board is the controller brain board save these boards do not throw them away I will explain why. when you get a xbox one controller that is auto drifting you usually think its the analog sticks or a faulty analog stick. this is no where near what it is. 90% of the xbox one controller problems you face are from faulty brain boards as they are known this is the board on the bottom of the controller. the board that houses the chip and the receiver. to save you time and money. do these simple things. 1. power up the controller and see if it syncs to the console if it powers up and syncs to the console and starts to auto drift left or right its the top board that's damaged now if its the bottom board that's damaged you will have a trigger not working or abxy buttons not working these are codes to tell you what is wrong with the controller. now the brain boards can be swapped out make sure you have a controller with a 100% working brain board you will need this board to diagnose weather its a top board or a bottom board issue if you swap out the bottom board and the top board stops drifting and works you know its a bad brain board however if you swap out the board and it doesn't stop its the button board. and a huge heads up. replacing the analog stick doesn't fix the board so don't bother its not worth it its better to Frankenstein to different boards together to make one good controller.
Try to sync it very close to the Xbox, or try to put a little piece of wire in the antenna plug, maybe the controller has a weak signal? Anyway, you did an incredible job with this controller, those USB port and traces repairs were exceptional!
You should definitely feel good about that fix. You were clearly playing a rigged game and you got it most of the way solved. I look forward to seeing how bad the rest are. You did well.
Controllers usually shutdown almost immediately if it cannot see a connection with a chosen target device. That said, that flashing sequence does look abnormal Also, keep up the good work Vince
Listing appears to give hope into possible being able to fix them. Obviously a con job. I would still put a complaint to eBay. Hey Vince, do you have a need for a Bridge?
****Possible Tip*** With multiple tracks, I wonder if a spare ribbon cable with much the same dimensions as the tracks can be used? as in clean and tin the damaged tracks and then scrape and tin the donor ribbon cable, to which the ribbon cable is then placed upside down contacting the tinned PCB tracks "don't forget the flux", and then by using a heat gun meld them together. Soldering Iron may work, and if you do make sure you clean the tip with recommended soldering iron cleaner, never ever scrape away the tip, as the plating is crucial for professional soldering.. might be worth a try... Ay?
Possibly or you can get the older type ribbon cables, the ones covered in plastic with actual wires. I bought some for the Sega Dreamcast but they might be a bit big for a repair like this :-)
It's always good to practice Micro soldering and you done a very good job been following you for a long time I just purchased two iPad mini in hope I can repair got the first one and the main fault is a replacement connector that's going to be fun ! What microscope are using ? Thanks Phil
Thanks Phil, I am just using the macro feature on my camcorder and then using the HDMI out from the camcorder to watch the image on a little TV screen, saves me having to look at the tiny viewfinder :-)
I would buy some thin wire like others have suggested. There is 0.2mm thick on ebay of both 'Tinned copper wire' and 'enamelled copper wire'. Tinned copper wire would be easier for you but it's conductive along its whole length so you have to watch out for shorts. Enamelled copper wire is coated so doesn't short, but you have to scrape the coating off the part your going to solder, which on wires that small can be tricky.
Thanks pds8475, I just asked this question to GadgetUK164 about the scraping but you have now answered it :-) I like the enamelled copper wire as it has insulation but I wish there was a wire that allowed the soldering iron to burn off the insulation to save you scraping it, so just a tap of the iron would strip it back and solder at the same time. I am sure I watched a video a couple of years ago that showed a mod on a games console where he was just soldering the wires with just a little tap of the iron, the wires looked to be a black colour so maybe the iron was just burning off the very end of the plastic insulation on a standard type wire. As always, cheers for all the help :-)
@@Mymatevince Yeah plastic coated wire is a lot easier. You can use heat on enamelled wire but it just makes the enamel brittle so you have to scrap it anyway. CPC have a 0.15mm(38SWG) self fluxing polyurethane coated wire but it is quite expensive at £10.32 for a pack of 4 reels of 38m lengths.
@@pds8475 Thanks so much. I found it on CPC and was going to buy it but it mentioned that it can produce toluene di-isocyanate when soldered so I think I will stick to normal enamelled copper wire. I know the amount would be tiny but for piece of mind I will give it a miss (bit paranoid about cancer related things). Thanks for sharing the link though because that looks like exactly the thing that I described :-)
Don't know if this information is of any use or if it will be seen even, Occasionally my Xbox One struggles to Sync controllers. Fix = Turn off the controller (pull the battery), Press and hold the sync button the xbox for 10 seconds, then release turn on controller, press and hold sync button on controller for 10 seconds, it then connects, don't know why this works but it does for me anyway
***ARGHHH!!!*** Respectfully Vince... Pre Fluxing and soldering is a MUST!! No ifs and no buts, if you don't have flux expect to fail. if one doesn't pre tin, then the intended non pre tinned connection WILL FAIL!!! or worse act like a resistive capacitor.. Also a stinking hot soldering iron is a must, BTW did you know if you just touch flux that is touching solder the solder will melt without even contacting the soldering iron? try it with a really hot soldering iron and you will see you will be blown away. So yeah.. when soldering FLUX is a MUST..
Good vid mate.. Fingers crossed you ent brought a salvage lot...? If you have the "Rumble" ON, will that mess up the soldering joints etc? Good content tho MMV... Take care ZSR :D
hi have you tried Electric Paint 10ml Draw circuits, solder components and repair devices on a range of surfaces with electrically conductive paint. Nontoxic, air-drying. Works great on may materials including paper, plastic, textiles and conventional electronics.
omg dude.... I am very impressed with your stubborn perseverance.... We should put you on that nuclear fusion project immediately..... 40:56 "Unbelievable.... that's done it...." The relief and disbelief in your voice.... I am not laughing. I've been where you are.... I mean, in a different industry, where, you're on a job, and it has to work, and you're trying something crazy.... And you don't even believe it yourself, that it's working..... Brought back a lot of memories.... Heh heh heh! I am tipping my cap to you Sir... I haven't even finished watching the video yet, but what you've already done, is unbelievable.... I usually find myself in a situation where, for various reasons, you cannot get parts. At any price, mind you. Price is irrelevant. There literally are no parts. So you have no choice, you have to fix it.... You just have to, there is no alternative... To think that you are doing this work, to try and fix a controller, that could be ordered brand new off of Amazon for $44 US, does boggle the mind a little bit... But I do enjoy your videos, so I suppose I should shut up....
Another great video. I really enjoy your Trying To Fix videos espicially your gaming related stuff.. Can i just ask where did get the game controller test app from
My guess is this little isolated board is the wireless board and she is probably faulty, and the people who tried to fix, scratch the traces to maybe "disconnect" the board. Or can be just mistaken. I'm not sure.
I went through similar efforts trying to fix a similar controller. It's doesn't worth the amount of work if only for value of controller.
It is the joy of seeing things working again and the fun of finding better ways, trying all possibilities and avoid bigger trouble.
I fixed a lot of different staff and gave away. Biggest challenge for me is Mrs easily gone mad when she sees my table during a project.
that bridge work was AMAZING i cant believe it was possible, i was watching thinking no way will that be doable but wow im genuinely awed, seriously its like a piece of art. if i managed that id take a hd pic, blow it up, print and frame it beside the board. forget about the controller at that point and display my mad skills, your becoming an artist with that soldering iron, bravo and deep respect.
you got some mad skills now compared to your first video, well done.
I was really praying for you there at the end. I admire your tenacity and your skills are getting so much better from when you started all those vids ago. Really enjoying your work.
"The person could've sent me a brick" - Would you try to fix the brick?
TheTechChannel 1 i do lmao
TheTechChannel 1 I know lmao
TheTechChannel 1 nobody’s actually going to give someone 50 bricked Nintendo switches, even if they were broken 😂
I hope it wasn't a brick of cheese.
Vince: You could have sent me a box of bricks and I wouldn’t know it.
Me: Wanna buy a box of Nintendo Switches?......
Hahahahahahhaahahah 😂😂😂😂😂😂
As more and more stuff I watch I more and more realize how many junk are sold. And that's right, you skills are improved a lot amazing, I glad I subbed a long ago and found you.
Early model controller boards didn't have a shield. That board is for wireless. Someone defo had that right stick off tho.
At the beginning when looking at the traces, I said to myself, please put wires on the port first at the approximate lengths and not put the port and then try to put the wires. YOU DID NOT disappoint!
I am trying to catch up on you Vince, if only we had a nation of problem solving and working long hours. we would be on top of the world through guys like you Vince. Well done.
You need smaller wire, mate! Take individual strands from a single wire for jobs like this, makes soldering much easier
using component legs is the easiest and also solid wire so easier to manipulate into position
well done,...i admire your tenacity and fault finding skills...this video took an hour, and taught me more in that time than anything else could...great work and a great video !
The amount of work this man puts into those videos and the bloody patience....lets go for 500k subs!
No way would I think it was easy to repair those traces I can see how minute they are and I shake so much I would have soldered all the traces together It's just marvelous to see what you actually accomplish in your videos it's just wonderful to watch
I know this is an old video, Vince, but Jesus Christ... after the rather heavy handed microUSB repair I was beginning to question your soldering abilities. Then you totally redeemed yourself with that unreal trace repair. That was a work of art! Even if it didn’t immediately fix the controller.
I'm amazed that I see so many modern game systems and controllers broken. I used to throw my old Nintendo and Sega controllers on the floor yet they still work perfectly to this day! It seems that modern stuff will break simply by giving it an angry look!
I use the laminated wire out of old fans or voice coils for jumper wire, It's really thin and plus it's free.
Hats off to you sir, the amount of time you spent on that controller is incredible. I would have given up ages ago.
Hammer Time 🔨
Billy-wayne Jeffcoat 😂
Not sure if this is a regional thing, but for a board on a board I believe the term is "daughter board". (Not trying to be pedantic, it's just the most helpful thing I can add)!
I have to say you have the patience of a saint sir.
ikr
Here are a tip of someone that have being fixing his own controller with scraps for years.
28:54 If you see analog stick is stuck in a corner or going wild 99% of the time the problem is a broken/worn out potentiometer or a broken tracer.
And some general tips for fixing any kind of electronics.
And buy finer wires. Like 0.2mm enameled cooper wire. They would have made the repair of this 20:02 and this 37:07 a lot easier. Just remember to pass the wire on fire to burn the isolation when doing tracer repairs.
A cheap way to get fin copper wire is to strip stranded power cables but they are not coated/insulated and that would make this 20:02 repair a little more trickier.
If possible buy a soldering hot air station. This is the right tool for soldering small things.
I wouldn't mind a wired xbox one controller tbh. I was about to cry when the usb port wasn't working the second time 😢😭
I'm glad you got it more fixed than when you got it, Vince! Well done
Tears on my soldering mat; is that going to be the title of your autobiography, Vince?
Haha...brilliant :-)
Sounds like a good title for a song xfactor here he comes.
I love your determination to go through and sort stuff
It appears that several components are missing by the USB port. If you look at the pads labeled R7 D14 D15 D17 D16 they are tinned but no caps or resistors between them. I don't own an Xbox so I don't knoe if that's how it's supposed to be or not. Maybe the repair guy used a heat gun to remove the old USB port and just blew off the components. You might compare it to another board. You can see the pads at 6:28.
It's quite common for PCBs to have unpopulated pads, in his case those pads are unpopulated on the XBX controller as can be seen here www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=43204.0
10/10 for effort and perserverance Vince!!
Vince, you rock! Nice seeing you struggling with soldering. Great job on working on these fixes. It happens to me too!. Cheers from Nicaragua.!
What the hell is nice about that:(
Your soldering skills have really come along Vince, keep up the great content!
I am your fan. You are so amazing fixing all of these controllers ... please keep doing what you do
I would invest in some fine bare wire for stuff like this. Really really fine, like 38 AWG (0.1 mm diameter). We have a little bobbin of it at work that has been a lifesaver for this kind of fine modification or repair.
Hey Vince love your videos. Finer guage enamel wire can be salvaged out of phone wall chargers or pcb's with small transformers works great for those small pins and traces then stick it all down with that UV solder mask pen
Vince I hope you left the eBay seller negative feedback 👎 I have a idea , you said you have trouble filming .. you should buy some really good but faulty filming equipment &fix it 🎥
I just broke one of my xbox 1 controllers so I can pretend to be mymate vince while I try to fix the controller.
I feel a revisit is in order for this controller. Knowing you Vince, you won't let this best you. I have faith you will figure it out and repair it in the future.
Thanks mate, hopefully when I finish all 6 I will have a better understanding of the controllers so I might be able to go back and fix what is unfixable for me at the moment :-)
You didnt give up. Respect to you Vince.
A friend is going in for some brain surgery but I have suggested you may want to have a go.
Let me know.
PLEASE PLEASE get some helping hands
Thanks Emma, when I was doing this I thought to myself how stressful it must be for surgeons doing heart surgery. I do have some helping hands but it is a massive unwieldly thing. I might get those cheap little ones with the magnifying glass attached to them :-)
I tried the ones with built in magnifier. AVOID.
Best bet is to get a set of helping hands which are good quality (cheap ones move when you let them go after adjusting) and separate magnifing glass that can attach to a worktop. Use a separate light also.
I'm impressed. You are getting good at this.
Somebody didn’t remove that shield, The one without the shield was a launch version of the controller which didn’t have those shields. The one with the shield was a revision of the controller which was released shortly after launch.
Those launch controllers wirelessly synced via infrared and the Kinect which the Xbox one S doesn’t support so that won’t work wirelessly on a non launch console.
Hey, I've got a tip for you for increase your soldering abilities. You could put some of the soldering material on the cable ( like soldering it into the cable ) and then you just need to put the cable close to the pin/part you need to sold and it will make things easier.( I think)
So much respect for you for how hard you tried to fix it
51:18 that's useful software. 👍
Yes it is very useful as it shows up stick drift and you can test the vibration etc. Also it is free :-)
For the first one(right analog stick and right trigger) its a common issue where the PCB cracks right in the the middle of the right stick contacts. the traces for the right trigger run though that point as well.
That was a fun video. I feel your pain, pouring hours into a project to get a 'semi' good result. >.
MASSIVE THANKS VINCE ❤️, i just bought 5x Xbox one controllers on eBay hopefully they are in a repairble condition and I can make some profit.
Great job! So very close! One thing I would say - it's worth getting some super fine coil wire (winding wire 0.1mm). It's far easier to fix traces with wire like that! It's very frustrating when you get somethink like this controller where someone has worked on it previously =/ It looks like they swapped the stick and gouged the traces at that point. Maybe then the micro USB connector broke off. The micro USB connector can get snagged in the case when reassembling - I suspect they also broke that too. Maybe the wireless was a fault caused by something they did too.
Thanks Chris, I never noticed the stick had been replaced. I was sure it was going to work after sorting the scraped tracks. Gutted when it didn't sync up. Hopefully the next 5 will be a little bit easier. When you use the fine coil wire do you scrape off the last few millimetre of insulation (enamel????) at the ends to expose the copper or just solder it straight onto the insulation hoping that the tiny bit of exposed copper at the cut end will make the contact?
With that type of wire you find you can usually just heat the end with solder and flux and the coating slowly melts back. It's so fine, it's finer than hair! But it does make those super thin traces really easy to deal with! That thumbstick, look at the point where you zoomed in to fix those broken traces, you can see the solder points on the stick look like they've been worked on - it's clear to me that someone swapped that before you got to it!
Thank you Chris :-)
Just bought some 0.1mm enamelled copper wire on eBay. Hopefully this will make it easier next time :-)
This repair was the most impressive that I've seen from you yet.
for stuff like this, you could take some enamel(?) copper wire, the stuff you make motor windings and inductors out of (so you know where to get it) there are sometimes absolutely tiny gauges used that are easier to solder to something like this connector. thats way easier than dealing with those rather thick wires
And you don't need all that insulation to replace traces anyway
Yes I love when Vince does a series of videos :-)
I was watching this willing it to work almost as much as Vince was!
With traces that small it's easier to just bride the gap with solder. I've only done for one or two traces but never that many. As for the power off issue, a well known fault is with a certain capacitor (C31) that shorts out. Removing it solves that problem.
Vince please check and see if the little antenna cable is running from the back board to the joystick board. That is the thing that will give you wireless capability and if it isnt there that would explain your problem.
you could start using enamelled copper wire just like Louis Rossman you already watched does! pretty easy to use in these cases. (you can source it from broken motors like a rumble motor) :) comes in a bunch of sizes too! also a tip i use a lot, try to dip your wires in the flux, instead of smearing it across your receiving solder item. especially on micro-usb ports you avoid it getting on all nukes and cranies! ^_^ edit: have only seen half a vid when i commented :P you already using enamelled wire (magnet wire as you described it). why not on usb micro port too then?
Thanks, I thought it might be too stiff on the micro USB port. My thinking was when I bend it to get it to go to the cap/resistor etc.then it may snap off from the tiny pins. Maybe it might have worked better if I used it. Maybe next time I could try it to see how it goes :-)
@@Mymatevince you just wouldnt have to coil it up. If you get smaller diameter one, they get pretty flexible. Never be afraid to use small diameter wire. As you can see the traces are really small themselves. I have to admit you ultimately did a really great job using the wires you used. I thought they would be too bulky to move around but you proved me wrong. We may try to advise you on certain things we have encountered but keep in mind we too learn from you a lot! I would have never tried fixing and soldering on an iphone.. yet you managed it. Great content! Keep it coming!
Those traces were cut, likely during diagnosis of the fault by a repair technician at some point.
Also keep in mind a big blob of solder doesn't mean a strong solder joint
Keep trying you will succeed sooner or later.
Question, for those traces have you thought about looking into those circuit writer pens? This video was incredibly interesting and you have been an inspiration for me, I have repaired an n64, Gameboy color, dslite, and a PS3 thanks to your videos. Thanks again from the backwards state of Georgia!
"Faulty charge port" - charge port is missing.
Talk about not being as described.
I mean...if the charge port is missing I guess it is faulty right?
@@StormsparkPegasus Not necessarily. It might be in full working order, wherever it is...
I buy a lot of faulty stuff to fix from eBay and I get that all the time. 'Faulty' sometimes means 'It's had a sledgehammer taken to it' and 'Some parts might be missing' can mean 'There's no motherboard, disc drive or power supply. In fact, it's just the case!'
@@fadetonoirfilms Yeah...I saw a video from another RUclipsr who was buying and fixing broken Xbox's. There was 1X. It said basically "doesn't work". He opened it up, there's no motherboard. Yeah, I guess it doesn't work!
@@StormsparkPegasus I bought an X last week that said 'doesn't boot'. It was just an update error, easy fix. Saw another one today that says 'main board had gone'. Not touching that one - sounds like the seller knows more than they're letting on but doesn't want to be specific. Could mean anything from 'I spilled my drink on it' to 'The motherboard is literally not there anymore'!
Shame it didn't fully work but Im awfully impressed you were able to repair those traces!
Almost wanted to dislike this vid, because of the despair I could hear in your voice! You have patience, I would have chucked it out of the window lol! You did very well to get it working as well as it did! Good luck with the rest and keep up the great vids mate!
Get yourself some coated copper wire maybe strip a speaker coil or a transformer it’s brilliant
I'm up watching this the same time you was up trying too fix controller it's hard to do but perseverance pays off 🌛👍
13:02 For soldering those wires to the Mini USB port or such small components in general: use a different tip! there are those connical bent ones (HAKKO calls them J01 J .. etc.) with 0.4mm tip size, those are perfect for such jobs! I am using those (equivalent) ones on my Ersa. Look around for some fitting your iron, don't know which one you have ... Greetings from Germany!
for that kind of soldering you maybe could get an item called third hand. they're rather cheap but helpfull
BloodyClash good idea
Amazing work. Just wanted to chime in to say that even if the controller didn't want to work with the console, you can update it using the Xbox Accessories app on Windows. It's a little known official app on Microsoft's store. Cheers.
Great video vince! Always remember that even if doesnt work, it helps you practice and improve as you always say.
@My Mate Vince the sheild over the Xbox wireless controller means it's a gen1 controller gen 3 has a slightly different wireless chip and has no sheild what you see is a board to board interconnect not sheild tabs.
From what I can see the trigger isn't working because it uses the magnetic field of a transistor or magnetic pad depending on generation I would also check for a short on caps near the battery holder.
I know all this because I convert Xbox and PS4 pads to archade pads.
Thanks, yeah I was sure it had a shield and was some type of ball grid array type thing. Now I know for next time :-)
I wish my hands was steady and had better eyesight this micro solder job looks fun
Dang did the guy just rip the connector out from the fist controller?
Love the videos Vince it’s almost soothing to listen to not as bad as falling asleep like Mr James Mays voice lol
Also love the choices of music
I have at least 2 gen 1 xbox one controllers that i have trouble syncing as well. I have two xboxes so they are always being switched around. i have found that i can only sync them with a brand new fresh set of batteries and even then sometimes i have to mess with them to get it to sync. sometimes I have to hold the sync buttons on the controller and the xbox and release them simultaneously or at different times or move the controller closer or farther away to get it to sync. One time i gave up and went to set the controller on the coffee table which was about 6 ft away. when i set it down it synced right up. so maybe just try a few different things. but once they are synced, when they are powered back on they connect right away. we have since bought additional controllers and labeled the problem controllers and only use them with the xbox they are synced to. Great video though! your perseverance and patience is impressive.
Your patience is incredible.
Hey Vince.
So I can help you on your xbox one controller job lot this will save you time and money.
1. the xbox one controller is two separate boards the bottom board is the controller brain board save these boards do not throw them away I will explain why.
when you get a xbox one controller that is auto drifting you usually think its the analog sticks or a faulty analog stick.
this is no where near what it is.
90% of the xbox one controller problems you face are from faulty brain boards as they are known this is the board on the bottom of the controller. the board that houses the chip and the receiver.
to save you time and money. do these simple things.
1. power up the controller and see if it syncs to the console if it powers up and syncs to the console and starts to auto drift left or right its the top board that's damaged now if its the bottom board that's damaged you will have a trigger not working or abxy buttons not working these are codes to tell you what is wrong with the controller.
now the brain boards can be swapped out make sure you have a controller with a 100% working brain board you will need this board to diagnose weather its a top board or a bottom board issue if you swap out the bottom board and the top board stops drifting and works you know its a bad brain board however if you swap out the board and it doesn't stop its the button board.
and a huge heads up. replacing the analog stick doesn't fix the board so don't bother its not worth it its better to Frankenstein to different boards together to make one good controller.
Thanks for the tips :-)
Try to sync it very close to the Xbox, or try to put a little piece of wire in the antenna plug, maybe the controller has a weak signal?
Anyway, you did an incredible job with this controller, those USB port and traces repairs were exceptional!
Great video Vince. Really impressed with your skills on this one.
Thanks :-)
You should definitely feel good about that fix. You were clearly playing a rigged game and you got it most of the way solved. I look forward to seeing how bad the rest are. You did well.
Controllers usually shutdown almost immediately if it cannot see a connection with a chosen target device. That said, that flashing sequence does look abnormal
Also, keep up the good work Vince
Listing appears to give hope into possible being able to fix them. Obviously a con job. I would still put a complaint to eBay.
Hey Vince, do you have a need for a Bridge?
You're a patient man, Vince! I'm sure there was a bit of cussing off camera haha
thiner wire vince :)
i got kynar when i was doing wii and xbox 360 modchip and was great
You got skills now, i'm very impressed !!
****Possible Tip***
With multiple tracks, I wonder if a spare ribbon cable with much the same dimensions as the tracks can be used? as in clean and tin the damaged tracks and then scrape and tin the donor ribbon cable, to which the ribbon cable is then placed upside down contacting the tinned PCB tracks "don't forget the flux", and then by using a heat gun meld them together. Soldering Iron may work, and if you do make sure you clean the tip with recommended soldering iron cleaner, never ever scrape away the tip, as the plating is crucial for professional soldering..
might be worth a try... Ay?
Possibly or you can get the older type ribbon cables, the ones covered in plastic with actual wires. I bought some for the Sega Dreamcast but they might be a bit big for a repair like this :-)
@@Mymatevince indeed, if the tracks match a ribbon then its worth considering..
Yes, ones with a very small pitch might do the job :-)
Good man! Just because defeat may seem obvious doesn't mean it's not worth going on the journey.
It's always good to practice Micro soldering and you done a very good job been following you for a long time I just purchased two iPad mini in hope I can repair got the first one and the main fault is a replacement connector that's going to be fun ! What microscope are using ? Thanks Phil
Thanks Phil, I am just using the macro feature on my camcorder and then using the HDMI out from the camcorder to watch the image on a little TV screen, saves me having to look at the tiny viewfinder :-)
been waiting for video like this, thank you
The Ebay screwdriver guy has been at work again
I would buy some thin wire like others have suggested. There is 0.2mm thick on ebay of both 'Tinned copper wire' and 'enamelled copper wire'. Tinned copper wire would be easier for you but it's conductive along its whole length so you have to watch out for shorts. Enamelled copper wire is coated so doesn't short, but you have to scrape the coating off the part your going to solder, which on wires that small can be tricky.
Thanks pds8475, I just asked this question to GadgetUK164 about the scraping but you have now answered it :-) I like the enamelled copper wire as it has insulation but I wish there was a wire that allowed the soldering iron to burn off the insulation to save you scraping it, so just a tap of the iron would strip it back and solder at the same time. I am sure I watched a video a couple of years ago that showed a mod on a games console where he was just soldering the wires with just a little tap of the iron, the wires looked to be a black colour so maybe the iron was just burning off the very end of the plastic insulation on a standard type wire. As always, cheers for all the help :-)
@@Mymatevince Yeah plastic coated wire is a lot easier. You can use heat on enamelled wire but it just makes the enamel brittle so you have to scrap it anyway. CPC have a 0.15mm(38SWG) self fluxing polyurethane coated wire but it is quite expensive at £10.32 for a pack of 4 reels of 38m lengths.
@@pds8475 Thanks so much. I found it on CPC and was going to buy it but it mentioned that it can produce toluene di-isocyanate when soldered so I think I will stick to normal enamelled copper wire. I know the amount would be tiny but for piece of mind I will give it a miss (bit paranoid about cancer related things). Thanks for sharing the link though because that looks like exactly the thing that I described :-)
Don't know if this information is of any use or if it will be seen even, Occasionally my Xbox One struggles to Sync controllers. Fix = Turn off the controller (pull the battery), Press and hold the sync button the xbox for 10 seconds, then release turn on controller, press and hold sync button on controller for 10 seconds, it then connects, don't know why this works but it does for me anyway
Vince you should check the button on the control for sinking it to your Xbox.
***ARGHHH!!!***
Respectfully Vince... Pre Fluxing and soldering is a MUST!! No ifs and no buts, if you don't have flux expect to fail.
if one doesn't pre tin, then the intended non pre tinned connection WILL FAIL!!! or worse act like a resistive capacitor..
Also a stinking hot soldering iron is a must, BTW did you know if you just touch flux that is touching solder the solder will melt without even contacting the soldering iron? try it with a really hot soldering iron and you will see you will be blown away.
So yeah.. when soldering FLUX is a MUST..
Good vid mate.. Fingers crossed you ent brought a salvage lot...? If you have the "Rumble" ON, will that mess up the soldering joints etc?
Good content tho MMV... Take care ZSR :D
hi have you tried Electric Paint 10ml Draw circuits, solder components and repair devices on a range of surfaces with electrically conductive paint.
Nontoxic, air-drying.
Works great on may materials including paper, plastic, textiles and conventional electronics.
omg dude....
I am very impressed with your stubborn perseverance.... We should put you on that nuclear fusion project immediately.....
40:56 "Unbelievable.... that's done it...." The relief and disbelief in your voice.... I am not laughing. I've been where you are.... I mean, in a different industry, where, you're on a job, and it has to work, and you're trying something crazy.... And you don't even believe it yourself, that it's working..... Brought back a lot of memories.... Heh heh heh!
I am tipping my cap to you Sir... I haven't even finished watching the video yet, but what you've already done, is unbelievable.... I usually find myself in a situation where, for various reasons, you cannot get parts. At any price, mind you. Price is irrelevant. There literally are no parts. So you have no choice, you have to fix it.... You just have to, there is no alternative...
To think that you are doing this work, to try and fix a controller, that could be ordered brand new off of Amazon for $44 US, does boggle the mind a little bit... But I do enjoy your videos, so I suppose I should shut up....
Haha, thanks Patrick :-)
I feel your pain. I tried to fix a PS3 controller a decade ago and it was a nightmare. Good luck on the next one.
4:14 I'm no expert, but maybe the connector is completing a circuit that tells the controller that the connector is present?
Best RUclips Chanel ever BEST BRAVO
Another great video. I really enjoy your Trying To Fix videos espicially your gaming related stuff.. Can i just ask where did get the game controller test app from
Love watcing your videos but dont know why. Keep them coming
I honestly think this job lot is going to be interesting, i hope your right about it being easy.
Brilliant video. Just a thought though, have you checked the boards to confirm there is a wireless chip on them?
Get wire wrapping wire. You can do pcb fixes much easier with it.
My guess is this little isolated board is the wireless board and she is probably faulty, and the people who tried to fix, scratch the traces to maybe "disconnect" the board. Or can be just mistaken. I'm not sure.
There is such a thing as conductive paint, might be worth looking into, no soldering required.
He has used conductive paint in other fixes, but the trace lines are so tiny here that he wouldn't be able to draw such thin conductive lines.
Hello I was just wondering, what do you currently use for recording your videos?
At 47:22 I was like „Ok you g’damn mf´er, I’ve had enough! You had your chance, now you‘ll die by the flame!“
Dude your skills are so good know well done with all your hard work
very nice that you fixed it this far really nice skills