How to: Star Trails Photography with a 35mm FILM SLR
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This video shows you the basic steps to set up a 35mm film SLR for taking a star trails photograph. The end of the video shows some star trails images I've taken with this technique.
To check out my photography blog, follow this link:
beyondbokeh.blo...
THANK GOD!!! Someone finally did a video with a Pentax K1000 for astrophotography
this was not informative at all. This could have been explained in less than 3 minutes. 12 minute video just have had more detail as to how to calculate. you should rename this to: Basic Bulb Function
I do long exposures on film (mainly medium format and large format) and the fact that this video has so little views is beyond me. Long exposure film photography is disappearing every day. Anyway, excellent video. Shoot film!
You may fog the film with extraneous light pollution. There are also some reciprocity issues.
If you have an object in the foreground (say a tree) then it will get continually brighter the longer the shutter is open. If any light shines on it from the moon, car headlights, a camp fire, etc., it's going to be too bright a spot.
This is one of those photographic art forms that has a science backbone but requires a lot of artistic experimentation.
Perfect video man. I'm using my k100. 👍
Hi, my father passed away, he was a photographer. I’ve picked up his cameras and I’m starting to get into photography myself. He had the k1000, and the canon elan ii. I first want to thank you because your videos have taught me so much on how to use them, since he isn’t here, you’ve helped me connect with him in a way I thought impossible. So thank you for that. Considering I’m literally just beginning, I’m absorbing as much information as possible, experimenting, and learning.
I have a question with this video, I’ve definitely been interested in long exposure photography. So I want to experiment with the star trails. Right now I have Kodak 400 iso color film in my k1000, I live along the Hudson River in westchester, NY- so I am near some light pollution even tho it does get pretty dark in some areas. Would you suggest I get 400 black and white? Or can I experiment with the 400 color I have in my camera now?
(Amazing video by the way, do you have more long exposure videos with the k1000?)
So first up, I'm sorry for your loss. I, too, have my dad's old cameras and they are a great way to maintain a connection.
For star trails, nowhere on the East Coast has little enough light pollution for them. You'll need to plan a weekend in the Catskills, Finger Lakes, or Poconos to have a chance at getting suitably dark skies. You can plan your shoot with Dark Sky Finder. On the dark sky map, look for green or, preferably, blue or darker. I shoot a lot of star trails out in blue and black areas on the Dark Sky Finder map and the results are generally good if I did my job well of focusing and framing the images.
@@DavidHancock thank you!!
This was great! I really want to try this with my Olympus OM10
Thank you. The OM-10 would be able to do star trails without difficulty.
This is the most helpful video i've ever seen on long exposure! Especially because I was about buy 800 film for long exposure and dark lighting pics. I did take some photos in the dark of my friend breathing fire with fuji 200 film, you think it would show up very well when I printed then?
Milana Villo Thank you
Fire breathing will absolutely show up on 200. I'd actually be really excited to see the results of that.
In case you aren't subscribed, I have an entire series of videos in the process of being scripted for 2015 that deal with film and long exposure photography. One of the series will look at individual films, talk about how to use them, and provide data for things like calculating reciprocity failure for night photography. I'm also working on a film photography series for long-exposure photography, flash photography, and night photography (all with film.) Those will come out over the course of 2015 (I plan to start filming in Q1 after the scripts are written).
Milana Villo Dude,
I think the view count is partly due to there being a couple other videos on the subject. But, yes, fewer people use film for long exposures. Simply taking 300 20-second exposures on a DSLR and combining them in Photoshop is easier for most people than calculating film reciprocity or building a cold camera for extremely long exposures.
what is your most typical shutter speed and aperture for the shooting star trail. Do a video where you actually shoot a star traile
madis-siim kull I can do that. I'm overdue to update this series. I'm going on two astrophotography trips (end of March and end of April) this spring, so I'll bring some gear along to do an update.
As a quick answer, there's no typical shutter speed. Aperture needs to be fast -- like f2.8 or less. Part of aperture is also lens light transmission -- which is different than aperture and has to do with lens coatings, number of glass elements, etc.
It is possible, with a high-enough ISO, to get star trails at f4, but I find that needs to be in the 1600 to 3200 range. For shutter speed, that depends on how long you want your star trails. A full circle would be 23 hours and 56 minutes. So if you want to have a star trail with 1/10th of a circle, you need about 2 hours and 20 minutes.
On my Konica autoreflex T3 the power switch for the meter stops the shutter button from moving when it is off so you don't accidentally fire it when you don't intend to. This also means that if you hold the button down and then switch it to the off position it also can't pop back up. This can be used to make long exposures. And yes the manual mensions this somewere so it probably will not damage anything. I will have to try this at some point but I recently used up all my film at an airshow.
Thank you! I think I missed that on the long-exposure trick. That's awesome to know.
@@DavidHancock Also by the way I am not 100% sure it was the owners manual since I also tried to look up repair manuals to see how hard it would be to fix the timer on mine. (My conclusion was that it wouldn't be worth trying since the timer is not essensial for the camera to work). Either way it was written in some kind of manual that this was a way to hold the shutter open.
Great video man! I really want to try it with my Minolta X-700, however, how do I calculate the exposure?
Thank you and that
s the same as you would with this one. Exposure is based on film speed, light, and lens selection.
Interesting! Never thought about doing this with an analog camera
I find it to be a lot easier than with digital cameras. Less editing.
I alway thought doing this with an analog camera, never have the chance tho
Great video David, can't wait to shoot star trails with my 28mm f/2.8! Just some questions- should I shoot at wide open with focus at infinity? I'm also worried about light pollution, how much light pollution is acceptable for this?
Thank you and that depends on film speed and ambient lighting. If you're in a very dark are and using 400 or faster film, f/2.8 will likely work well. Give it some test photos and see what works for you. Shutter time will also affect how the image turns out, especially regarding color shift with C-41 and E-6 films.
@@DavidHancock I'm thinking of using Ektachrome 100 and leaving the shutter open for 1 hour perhaps 2 🤔
@@GTXTi-db5xu hmm. You're not going to get much in the way of stars. -- Vega, Polaris, Fomalhaut, and some of the other named stars. Also, E100 will likely color shift with that long of an exposure and will need a filter for correction. I don't know what color filter to use.
For light pollution, where will you be when you try this? Are you familiar with the dark sky map?
@@DavidHancock Do you think it will be better if I push E100 +2 stops? I live in Toronto so I have to drive about 2-3 hours before getting anywhere near acceptable levels of light pollution for astrophotography.
@@GTXTi-db5xu two stops is pushing E100 pretty far. My lab indicated that it has at most a stop of push. A couple hours outside Toronto, to the west or northwest, and IIRC there's some decent dark sky. I might give it a shot, but if the results aren't what you expect don't give up.
So I have the Pentax K1000 and a star tracker. When I choose a film, Is there a particular film that shows color best? Like the nebulosity which is usually in Ha or even reflection nebulas that are in O3 (I think)? I might try the rubberband trick, since my shutter release cable is a massive 12 inches long.... but it does have a locking mechanism to it. I am more worried about camera shake then anything else. Nothing would be more depressing than to get great color and focus, only to have the shake from starting/stopping the exposure to ruin it. I have seen some people say that you can put a black cover over the front of the lens, start the exposure and then remove the cover, then put the cover back in front for a second while you stop the exposure and that will eliminate camera shake. Do you know how that would work? would it affect the image in any way?
Good questions all around. We'll start easy and go harder.
To prevent camera shake, a locking cable release is the best option. Alternatively, with the rubber band trick, yes, use your lens cap and when ready carefully remove it. A good tripod and good locking-down on that tripod is important for this, too. When you're done, gently put the lens cap back on before ending the exposure. I have done this many times and it works well. I would not suggest something like a box solely because you'll need to gently remove it and if you've ever played the board game Operation, it's kinda like that to remove a box or tube and not bump the lens.
For film, you will not find a film that isolates to a specific band. If you want to isolate to Ha or O3 then you need a GOOD (read as: expensive) filter and that will not work for something like star trails because Ha and O3 filters cut out most all visible light. Ha filters will only be useful with solar photography which needs things like protective solar film and that's a whole other topic unto itself. I forget how much light O3 filters cut, but it will likely negatively effect the outcome. I think O3 filters cut less light than Ha, but it's been about ten years since I thought about trying those on a camera.
For star trails, you'll want something like a Portra 800 to capture the most stars, a 400 ISO film will capture many of them. Star capture will also depend on your aperture. At f/22, no film will record any stars, but at f/1.4 a 200-ISO film will be suitable for star trails. Also be sure you're not near a city as city light with any film will fill the sky with glow and probably completely blow out your photo.
Here's the best tip I can give you: You will probably mess these up a bunch before you get a good one. Don't let that deter you and learn from each mistake.
@@DavidHancock Awesome! Thank you for the quick response. I am planning to use my 50mm F2 lens, it is a manual lens, to shoot the milky way. Or, If I dont get a chance to in the next few days, I'll wait till fall and try the Andromeda Galaxy and the Orion Constellation. I also have 135mm and I think the F number is either 2.8 or 3.5, I think. I might give that a shot. So the idea of starting the exposure, then remove the lens cap wont negatively affect the image... that is good to know. Thank you for your time and the information.
@@kevinashley478 let me know how it turns out. I'll be interested to see your results.
@@DavidHancock will do! If i can find an appropriate adapter, i also have a 60mm f6 telescope i might try one day.
Hi; have u used a Star-tracker 2 eliminate the star trails 4 stars/planets/moon/ISS ec?
I have and if you align it well it works well. I've used mine for up to 45-minute photos with a 135mm lens.
Good video. I agree on the low film iso. I've got my best star trail shots from using Ilford FP4 at box speed.
I've just watched a few videos on star trails on dslr's and I think Ill stick to film.
I have a Canon AE-1 and a kodak film with a 400 iso. how many hours should i expose it? 2? 3 hours? thank you.
Earl Anthony Perez That depends on your surroundings. Are you going to be near a city or far away from light pollution? If you're far away from lights other than stars, you could theoretically go all night. If you're near city light or if the moon is out, you need to scale your image times downward.
Also, how long do you want your trails to be? If you want nice, long trails then you'll need an exposure of at least 45 minutes. The longer the better, at that point.
Thank you :)
I tried this the other day. About 5 hours of exposure with a Fuji Acros 100. The frame was heavily underexposed, not useable. I shot it on f8. Should I use the lens wide open for better result?
Yeah, f/8 is probably too small an opening to obtain star trails. With a 100 ISO film something around f/2 or wider might work.
@@DavidHancock Thanks! I appreciate your input. Have to try it again
Any tips for focusing in the dark? Do you aim for a small aperture so more is in focus or a wide aperture so the stars are picked up? Do you rely on hyperfocal focus? I’ve done star photography with digital and it seems like a whole different approach and requires two images merged to get foreground and background in focus.
I’m going to attempt this with a 67ii but I think I need to test the lens markings to know if I can trust them. Thanks for any further tips you have ✌️
For focus, it's generally safe to assume infinity focus is accurate. With your 67II, if you're using a Takumar lens (I don't know of any third-party 67 lenses), then your infinity focus will be accurate. Were you doing this on 35mm with, say, a Samyang 24mm or other third-party lens, the could focus past infinity. That would mean pre-focusing and maybe taping the focus with frog tape or the like.
Definitely shoot wide open to get the most light.
Thank you, I appreciate the tips! I hadn't considered pre-focusing in the light and taping it off.
I have the SMC Pentax 55 f/4 and 105 f2.8, specifically. I shot a few images with the 55 on a test roll set to the marked infinity point at f8/11/16 in broad daylight so I can see the results, but the DoF preview looked decently sharp beyond immediate foreground elements (to be expected).
I'll try more apertures and shooting at night when I see those results, and once I'm more confident with the lens markings (and the EI). I just got the camera and just started shooting 120 for the first time so I'm taking it slow and methodical for a few rolls, but test rolls can get expensive without some planning, so thank you again for your advice!
400 film is suggested here for star trails. Which film would You suggest for night photography of stars, without doing star trails? Like trying to capture the milky way in the darkest surroundings possible. Would 800 be a good choice then?
800 is great. I've used 1600 (Fuji) for tracked Milky Way shots before (check out my All About Film video on Fuji Natura for samples.) I like 800 for star trails (especially Portra) but part of the setup is based on location. If you're in a dark area, an 800 or 1600 will be great. If you're in a suburb, near a highway, etc., 400 is a better choice because it prevents foreground blow-out better than the faster films.
great stuff man thanks
You're welcome.
So the exposure time is generally around 3-5 hours? Let's assume I'm using Provia 100f at f/8. Is there a benefit to leaving the shutter open for longer? Do I run the risk of ruining the slide?
Awful presentation. Spent 2 minutes explaining how he wasn't going to talk about reciprocity and another 2 minutes picking up stuff he drops on the floor. Stopped watching after 5 minutes - couldn't stand his diversions from the topic. He could have condensed this to 2 minutes for how much actual information was given.
Those are valid criticisms.
thanks for the rubber band tip, nice to know i don't have to buy a release cable. Would rangefinders have the same issue with light leaking through the viewfinder?
You're very welcome for the rubber band tip. Randefinders will not have the same issue because there's no connection from the rangefinder window to lens-to-film chamber (camera obscura) through which the image's light travels.
Great video! You mentioned that you tried it with 400 ISO and bracketed, but you didn't have the photos developed yet. Could you tell me what size aperture and exposure time worked best for you? Thanks
Wide-open. Ideally, faster than f/3.5 is the best. I've used down to f/1.4 but find that 2 and 2.8 suit my tastes well.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I would set my camera (Nikon FE) on Auto, and I would use the timer (to lock the mirror), and it would take as much time as necessary for a decent exposure. Am I right (to trust my camera's meter)?
Also, do you have a video on how to develop long exposure(d) film?
ghandee Don't use auto mode on a camera. Film has reciprocity failure and if you take a long exposure using the metered time and the exposure is longer than a second or two (with most films), the film will fail to record enough light to display an image. With a star trails, you'd need to use B mode and leave the shutter open. B will not work with your self timer.
You can develop long-exposure film exactly as you would normally used film. So if you want to take a few star trails shots overnight with, say, ISO 400 film, you can then shoot the rest of the roll in the morning at ISO 400 and develop it all the same way without issue.
As far as the exposure time goes. The only camera I have is an old Rolleiflex that granddad had, so would I be in the same ballpark of exposure time (2-4 hours) with a medium format camera? I also want to do it with as little light off the moon as possible to make the stars really pop. I'm thinking of 100 iso film, but what would be better black and white or color?
Thank you so much for this video, all I have been able to find is digital star trail instructions.
+Miles J. You're welcome. Let me share some medium format experiences with you before you give it a shot.
Your exposure time for medium format and 35mm are the same. Where you'll run into problems is that medium format lenses tend to be slower. Since I think all the Rolleiflex bodies were f/2.8 or faster, it will probably be okay. You'll want to shoot wide open or close it down to f/3.5. Stopping it down will help remove some of the light drop-off. Light drop-off from a wide-open lens on a long exposure is very amplified (due to reciprocity failure) and makes the image look vignetted.
100 ISO will be way to slow. Even at f/2.8, you're unlikely to get any stars. For black and white, try 400 TX pushed to 800, 1600, or even 3200 ISO. For color, try Kodak Portra 800. Those are both very good choices for star trails and will pick up a lot of stars.
Here's a shot I did with Acros 100 at f/2-ish
lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0k-2l87lzWg/VXPpWuhM5UI/AAAAAAABryk/qq1axMQQgr0/s1000-Ic42/1.jpg
That was in a pitch-black part of northern California, and only a few stars were bright enough to show up. By comparison, here's a shot with the same camera and lens using a 1600 ISO film:
lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oPqbcURcS9w/VX0jl60N8YI/AAAAAAABsrI/irKnAyJg0Ic/s1000-Ic42/1.jpg
Wow, thank you so much, that clears up a lot. I know I'll run through a couple rolls before getting something I'm happy with, but anything that can shave down on my experimentation is really appreciated.
I have one question though, when you say use a 400 ISO film, then push it to 800 or 1600, what do you mean by that?
Again, thank you so much, you've been a huge help!
Miles J. I'm glad to help.
So pushing film. Film has a rated ISO, let's say 400. There's a series of ways to ascertain this. Some manufacturers use ISO standards based on film density tests while others, like Ilford, use practical testing in the manufacturer's standard developer. However the rating is obtained, the ISO rating is a number that's used to guide how to obtain a 'proper exposure.' But proper exposure is a combination of a lot of things: aperture size+shutter speed, lighting conditions, film developing chemisty (including type, dilution, temperature, time, etc.) and some other fairly unimportant factors like film age.
So there's no reason that you HAVE to shoot 400 ISO film as a 400 ISO film. You can put it in your camera and shoot it as though it were a 200, 800, or other ISO film and then compensate for the adjustment in development. For instance, 400 TriX I've used from 50 to 6400 ISO. At 3200 ISO, you would develop it for like 35 minutes in Rodinal 1+50 (the exact time and other developer options are available on the Massive Development Chart.) Also, a good lab (I use OldSchoolPhotoLab.com) can push and pull film if you ask (and pay a few bucks extra) for it.
Pushing simply means that you've given the film less light than the manufacturer suggests -- pushing 400 TriX to 800 or 1600. Pulling is the opposite, giving it too much light -- pulling 400 TriX to 200 or 100. Then the compensation (all things in photography are compensation) is less light = more time in the developer and more light = less time in the developer.
Pushing and pulling black and white if you develop at home is just as easy as shooting it at the rated speed. In fact, I generally push and pull films because the process delivers different results, changes how films behave, and alters image aesthetics.
Color negative film CAN be pushed but not as much as black and white. I'd push or pull color negative up to one stop but not more. Slide film can also be pushed slightly but it's hard to do and the lab has to be VERY good. I have never (and probably won't ever) pushed and pulled slide film.
The thing is that you can't mix and match ISOs on a roll of film. Since you can only develop it once, if you shoot half at 800 ISO and half at 400 ISO and then develop at 400 ISO, half the shots will be one stop underexposed.
hello I was wondering if you can post the link to where you bought the cover for the viewfinder. I've looked everywhere and had no luck. thanks!
I got it on eBay from a seller who no longer has any. There are probably third-party "Pentax Viewfinder Covers" on eBay, however. There should be listings for the K1000 or K series cameras.
Hi I am curious about the other pictures you took with the others rolls, how do they look? I want to try this with a minolta maxxum 7000 but I can't find a decent wide lens.
Sure thing. Here are some photos I took after this video (well after) with the capture data, insofar I have it, provided:
Pentax K1000 star trails on a cloudy night in Jerome, Arizona, with Tri-X 400:picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/6279877987060458737#
Same camera, same roll of film, different night in Lee Vining, California:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/11115K1000
Pentax MG with Acros 100, NW or Redding, California. There are a few star trails in this lot:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/32715MG
Star trails also work well in color. I think these were with Fjuji Natura 1600 (Pentax LX) outside of Benton, California:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/121315LX
And here's an article I wrote on using film in astrophotography:
www.pentaxforums.com/articles/photo-articles/astrophotography-part-4-using-film.html
Thanks for your reply.
Hello, i have some questions. I have kodak color plus 200, how long minimum it need for capture the star trail? I will shoot it in dark area, in the mountain. And i'm using a rangefinder camera with manual settings, will it do the job like SLR camera? To focus the stars image what distance that i need to set in the focusing zone?
You'll need to know the maximum aperture. Most rangefinders have slower lenses than SLRs. If your camera has a maximum aperture of f/3.5, then you'll record far fewer stars than if your camera has a maximum aperture of f/2. The best thing that you can do is shoot at the largest aperture (lowest number).
At that point, exposure duration is simply a matter of how long you want the trails. Trails would be complete circles at 24 hours. So if you have an eight-hour night, then you know the maximum star trail length is 1/3 of the sky. If you leave the shutter open for an hour, your stars will move about 4.2% of the way across the sky, which is an impressive star trails image on film. At that exposure length, there will be enough overlapping trails to yield some very long star trails. You can also experiment with shorter and longer exposure durations.
@@DavidHancock using largest aperture doesn't it will make foreground objects looks unfocused? So i just set it to infinity?
my grandpas camera can only do 30 minutes is that enough for visible star trails?
Yes, but the trails will be short.
Hi David, when you use black and white film to capture star trails do you also reduce the development time (to avoid blocked highlights)? Thank you
Not generally because that would reduce the brightness of the stars. I tend to develop longer in more dilute chemistry to allow for a flatter result which retains all the needed detail and can have contrast added in post.
David Hancock Thank you!
i have this exact same camera, what ISO and aperture setting did you find works best with star trailing?
There are a few factors involved. I found that ISO 400 worked well. ISO 100 only recorded a few very bright stars. You'll also need to account for things like reciprocity failure. Also, times change depending on moon phase, proximity to cities, and so forth.
So if you have a nearby place where you can try some shots, I'd try various times. My shortest star trail that returned any kind of image was three hours with ISO 400 at f2.5 or thereabouts, I think.
If you have the ability to use a 12-exposure roll and try a series of shots (with the same aperture) from, say, one hours to six or so with 30-minute time increases, you could then figure out a good time for that film and use it to extrapolate other times. If you stop down much past f2.8, though, you will get few or no star trails.
Hi. I found your channel yesterday and I like it. Couple of questions, can you do astrophotography with this camera? Also, I understand you really like this camera that I am not sure it is available now in new so, compared to a new Nikon FM10 if you were to purchase today, which would you buy, and why? If I can request a video on tracking devices? Thanks, Merry Christmas.
***** So, the K1000 is not made any more, but they're plentiful on the used market. If I had the choice between a Made in Japan or Made in Hon Kong K1000 and an FM10, I would pick the K1000. The FM10 is better than the Made in China K1000 bodies.
The K1000 can easily do astrophotography, though honestly I would suggest a camera larger than 35mm for the best results. If you're looking to get started, the K1000 is a pretty great choice.
As for tracking devices, good timing but early. I have a Type 4 barn door tracker designed and all the parts sourced. I'm going to build a prototype first to prove that my math is correct and, if that works, I'll be building a sturdier model and making a video showing how I did all the math, the ratios involved that can help with scale-up and scale-down sizing, and some results. I think that, optimistically, I'm looking at Q4 2015 for that video, though.
Wow, looking forward your tracker video!! and thanks for the answer.
which one would u recommend, ektar, portra 160 or gold 200 for star trails?
200 is the better choice of those two, but a color 400 would be better still. Some of that depends on your location, too. If you're in a city, you won't get many trails. If you're in the country or other dark-sky area, you will, but the slower the film the fewer the trails (the slower films only record the brightest stars.) So you can use film selection to help determine how many star trails you'd like in an image.
David Hancock ohhhh, didn't know that. Actually I'm goin to Laguna 69 in Huaraz, Peru. quite far from any city. Cold too. // so a 400 ISO then, ok perfect. thank you. Ill get one then. thank you.
can I use the same way to take northern light? but my camera is minolta x700, do you have any advice for this?
I live too far south to have tried that, but the theory and practice should be the same. My only advice is use color film because the lights won't look like anything at all with black and white.
As for exposure times, I have no idea. You'd have to experiment.
Thank you for your response.
Question is there a website or an app to know how much time to do the exposure for?
There are some resources online for these, yes. I don't recall them because I generally just eyeball the settings now based on film speed and ambient light. But searching fort star trails calculator or similar terms should take you where you need to go.
@@DavidHancock thank you hopefully I can figure it out 👍
It would have been nice if you actually showed how to take the picture rather than just explaining the technical set up to those who have never done it before. Like, after you set it the the B and hold the button down with the rubber band, do you press capture button?? And if you do, how does the camera know how long to expose for? I really have no idea how to do this after watching the video. You seem to know a lot of tricks and knowledge which would be great if there were a full set of steps on how to accomplish this. Thank you!
Well, the capture process differs by camera. In general, it's simply pressing the shutter button and letting the rubber band hold it down. It's worth testing the process without film before doing it in the field.
is there a link to the 4 hour exposure of the star trails mentioned? I recently did some 15min exposures on fuji velvia (it was a spur of the moment thing)
+J T This is the longest one I can find right now: lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OLuNdqo-y7s/VGMLSCkxTXI/AAAAAAABZXk/HFYh8BGmY9gz684e5SccRRVN4TlNB_w6ACCo/s1000-Ic42/1.jpg I think this was around 2 hours.
thanks for the reply! about what ISO was it at?
Looks like 100 ISO to me, given how few stars are in the shot.
i wanna take night time photo with very with very minimum light
ive got zenit E idk if its possible to take photo with this in that kind of darkness ill try anyway
Soo how long should the shutter speed be? have to do it manually ofc :/
So it is possible with the Zenit E. You'll need a cable release WITH a lock. Then the cable release screws into the shutter button. Set the shutter speed to "B" for bulb. Then you'll press the cable release button down and twist the lock tight. That will keep the shutter open until you loosen the lock to release the cable release.
It is possible but you will need to calculate your exposure carefully. What you'll need to do is look at the technical data sheet for your film type. The data you need are the reciprocity failure data. Check out my Tri-X or Rollei Retro S All About Film videos for an explanation of how to read the reciprocity failure charts.
Then you'll just need to leave your shutter open for the correct time so that the film receives enough light to record an image.
If you're going for star trails, try 400 ISO film and then leave the shutter open basically as long as you want if you're in a dark area. Star trails for 45 minutes can be quite impressive. Three hours can make them even more impressive.
If you're just going for night photos, like in a city, then you may only need a 30-second-to-two-minute exposure to capture the lights and moving traffic.
In either case, experiment. Dedicate five or eight frames to a test shot and then take each photo for a different length of time starting slowly and getting longer. Just write down your times and aperture and you'll know what setting to use in the future.
thanks so much great info and content +1 subscriber btw
gonna try
want for urban photo very helpful
Hey David what’s aperture settings when taking Star trails?
Depends on your film speed and how many stars you want to see. I'd suggest that whatever film you have trying one night and setting the aperture at different settings, no larger a number than f/5.6. Do each photo for about 30 minutes and see which result you like the best in terms of foreground lighting, star trail visibility, etc. Keep track of the aperture that you use and then you'll know what kind of results you can get with your gear and film.
@@DavidHancock awesome! I usually use postra 400. I usually use digital do capture star trails, but I would I like to learn how to do it on film.
Thank you that’s really helpful l. ✌🏼
how do you avoid camera shake when removing the rubber band to end the exposure? thanks in advance
I put the lens cap on first.
Thank you!
what kind of movies you recommend a star trail photo shoot
madis-siim kull Are you asking what type of film is best to use?
Yes
That depends on the result you want and the lens you use. If you want to capture only the brightest stars, then use an ISO 200 film. If you want to catch as many as possible, use an ISO 1600 or 3200 film. In both cases, you need a fast lens -- f2, f1.8, or faster. I would not go any slower than f2.8 for star trails, if possible.
Hello there. I come from Europe and I have an old 35mm Zenit camera and planing to buy a new one in a couple of days. However, I can't find a cheap used M42 lens. The ones they're selling on eBay have overpriced shipping and I don't know where else to look. Does anyone have a recommendation or a site for cheap used lenses? Thanks in advance.
+Minnie MouseMe Cheaper than eBay? There should be sellers on eBay in the U.K. Amazon UK may have some for sale.
+David Hancock thank you very much, ill try that 'cause i usually find lens for 20$ and shipping is 20$ as well which i think is too much, i mean you can buy one more lens for that. But I'll try UK one :)
what f stop would you recommend using in a setting such as miles of corn field
+Andrew Ortiz For any astrophotography, you'll want as large an aperture as possible. A couple questions, what do you want your image to look like (corn fields under star trails, I assume) and what part of the U.S. are you in? I ask because I grew up in Illinois around limitless cornfields and in the Chicago area the night sky was much brighter than around Carbondale, so the techniques for shooting star trails in the two areas are different.
+David Hancock
i live in sacramento and im shooting with a nikon f. with a nikkor 1:1.4 52mm lens. also wanting to get some veriety with a wide angle attatchment.
Nice. The central valley has a good light pollution profile after your get outside of the cities (I live outside SF.)
So when I shoot star trails in Tahoe, which is a couple light pollution levels darker than the Sac area, I'll use ISO 400 and apertures from 2 to 4.5, depending on how many (or few) star trails I want. I would do a test shot at f/2.8 and see if that delivers the results you want. If there are too few star trails, you can always open the aperture on the next outing. Likewise, if there is too much light pollution from the Sac area, you can always close down a stop.
I forget what my settings were when I was shooting star trails from Mount Diablo out over the Bay Area, but I may have used f/5.6 to prevent foreground blow-out and just accepted the reduced number of star trails that would allow.
+David Hancock thats awsome advice. i am familiar with camera settings and what some result would be with certain combinations. but i lack experience.
Andrew Ortiz Best way to get experience is to just get out there and go for it. You'll make plenty of mistakes (I say this from experience) but each one should get you a step closer to a successful image and help you define your own photographic style.
Best thing you can do on a star trails shoot is bring a book and a dim flashlight. Waiting 30, 45, or 90 or more minutes for an exposure gets old FAST if there's nothing to distract you.
i dont know if it was been asked before but did you use filter
+Francisco Calzada I do not, as a matter of course, use filters. They either reduce sharpness or reduce light, both of which is an issue for astrophotography.
+David Hancock thank you
at what aperture did you set it at for iso 100
There are three variables: ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. So you can set it at any aperture and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. The only variable that you can't change after you start shooting is where you set the ISO.
Would it work on a Leica minilux zoom
Elliott Hernandez It should. The LMZ has a bulb setting, which is what you'll need for star trails. The rubber band will have to go around the long way to keep from pressing the zoom buttons behind the shutter release.
Why didn't you use a cable release instead of an rubber band?
Dieter R. A cable release is ideal. They have a few drawbacks. Not everyone has one, in the wind they can flop around and risk coming unlocked, and they're easy to forget. Also, not all cameras can accept a cable release. Also, the best place to get the rubber band you'd need is some broccoli, and it's important for RUclips content makers to condone healthy eating. All jesting on the broccoli aside, a cable release is typically a better option as the rubber band method can interfere with film advance lever and on some cameras that can affect shutter action.
O.K., forget Broccoli, take rubberband ;-)
Hello there. I have a question and hopefully someone will be able to answer me. I have an old Zenit 12xp camera but I would like to get more lenses for it. However, I don't really know which lenses are compatible with it. Can someone suggest me other lenses? Or maybe even explain how can I learn which lenses would go with my camera? Thank you in advance. :)
+Minnie MouseMe I believe that your camera has an M42 mount so any M42 lens will work.
I leave for vacation in three days and I currently only have ISO 200 film. I can't stop and buy more film before I leave and I want some good long exposure shots of the ocean. Is this possible?
Also, I'm rocking the Fujica STX-1. Nearly identical to the camera in the above video.
Yes, it should be. 200 CAN take star trails, just like 100. The difference is going to be how many stars show up. With 200, you'll have fewer, and only brighter, stars than with 400, 800, or 1600. Your exposure time can be longer, though, which is a plus.
I hope that's not too much of a problem. I live in a pretty secluded mountain range with almost no light pollution. I can see the milky way with my naked eye :)
Mathew Mabee I'd be interested to see your results. Remember to shoot wide-open with a fast lens, too.
What are you filming with ?
Way back when I made this, probably a Canon Elph.
what brand was your tripod?
JAY Van Maldeghem I have five, all of them are different brands. More important than brand is construction quality. You want one that is stable and sturdy, won't rock easily in the wind or even slight breezes, and one that has suitable weight carrying ability.
I have used 50 slide and 100 200 from 2hr 15 to 3hr 30
Nice!
A little long and drawn out... but I do appreciate the info! And your time and energy to try ans share what you know! Thanx!
85moosepoop You're very welcome. My oldest videos were rather blathery, I admit. :D
hey i take stair trails with my nikon d3200 and i found a 15/20 minuet shutter with Iso 100 and f11 is a perfect exposure. if i do the same with my film canon AE 1 with iso 100 color film it will work the same
Willem Shattuck Film works differently than a digital sensor, so the short answer is no. At f11, even with a 15-minute exposure, you will obtain basically no image on film. Here's an image I took on film with 1600 ISO film at f2.8. The exposure was about 60 minutes, maybe 90.
lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OLuNdqo-y7s/VGMLSCkxTXI/AAAAAAABZXk/gmlXPqEnApo/s1000/1.jpg
Film suffers from reciprocity failure. That's where, at exposures longer than one second (typically) it takes significantly more light to create an image. Film makers provide data tables in their film data sheets that show reciprocity curves for various films at their rated ISO. Check the data sheet for your selected film to see what the exposure compensation needs to be. If your digital sensor works with a 15-minute exposure, you may need to expect to have a 3-4 hour exposure with film.
I need help about yashica electro 35 gsn !!!?
ruclips.net/video/J3aF4UExHqA/видео.html
You didnt mention any timings for your shots. Could you go into more detail?
+Lovely Grey It depends on location and film. Different films have different reciprocity failures. Different locations have different ambient lighting. If you're in a dark location, away from cities and highways, you can basically leave the camera's shutter open all night if the moon is a crescent or new. If you're near a city, highway, or there's a full moon, you can probably go up to about 25-30 minutes with a 400 ISO film, 15-20 with an 800.
+David Hancock Hey thanks a lot, Just this reply has given me the info I was looking for. I live in a very dark area, and I'd like to capture the night sky with my K1000. I got everything I need pretty much, though, I am unfamiliar with what film options that are available. I shoot b&w mainly.
Lovely Grey So this will sound counter-intuitive, but avoid Delta 3200. I've used it for star trails and the negatives have always been VERY thin. For black and white, my best successes have been with Tri-X 400 developed with a one-stop push (shoot it at 800 SO if you're going to use other parts of the roll during the day) and other, similar 400 ISO films. Here are some links that might help:
Pentax K1000 star trails on a cloudy night in Jerome, Arizona, with Tri-X 400:picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/6279877987060458737#
Same camera, same roll of film, different night in Lee Vining, California:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/11115K1000
Pentax MG with Acros 100, NW or Redding, California. There are a few star trails in this lot:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/32715MG
Star trails also work well in color. I think these were with Fjuji Natura 1600 (Pentax LX) outside of Benton, California:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/121315LX
Lovely Grey I almost forgot, here's an article I wrote on using film for astrphotography:
www.pentaxforums.com/articles/photo-articles/astrophotography-part-4-using-film.html
+David Hancock Thanks, you are the best!
why use black and white film ? why not use color film
Black and white is, typically, sharper with more detail, better tonal ranges, and better dynamic range. It's also a more challenging art form.
@@DavidHancock what if you use a star tracker like Vixen Polari or Star Adventureae?
can you get a more detailed picture when using a star tracker
I've used my K1000 with a iOptron SkyTracker and it worked well. You need to have it very well aligned, but with Fuji Natura 1600 film and a 135mm lens, I managed a 45-minute, perfectly tracked exposure of the Milky Way a few years back.
@@DavidHancock oke thanks,
if clear night i will try with star adventure,
lol thumb fail