Let's look at the ZWO ASI2600MM Pro!! AMAZING RESULTS!!
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- In this video, I'm going to demonstrate how to piece your 2600MM Pro, EFW and OAG-L all by ZWO together, followed by actual data in comparison to the ASI1600mm Pro and see real results.
Be sure to comment below of your favorite images taken with your ASI2600mm PRO below and links. I'd be happy to look at them!
Be sure to check me out on social media and my personal website below:
Website : www.carterphotography.net/
Instagram : / midwest_astro
Twitter : midwest_astro?lan...
Tiktok: / midwest_astro
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
01:00 Specs
05:10 Let's Build an Imaging Train
18:00 Actual Camera Data Review
28:50 Final Results 
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Best video to explain to my wife why I bought this camera 😂🎉
Very solid tip about the masking tape. Thanks so much for the video. I've just got myself the 2600MM.
The camera comparison part is a great add
Often times people don’t and it pains me lol so I decided to not dwell on the specs and show you actual data
Wow just purchased my ASI2600mm pro. Hope to use it with the Redcat51 and EFW. Many thanks
Nice review. 👍🏼
Subscribed 😊
Appreciate the support! Thank you very much Astro Crescent and hope you enjoyed the video.
Bit late to the party getting my 2690mm in the next few days! 👏👏 I have the same scope can I ask your back focus I currently have a 1600mm I think it’s 108? Can I ask what calibration frames you use with the 2600 please, I heard you mention darks in the video, great video it will really be helpful to me Thank you 🙏🏼
Great video and timely! I have all these exact components sitting in boxes waiting to be put together - your imaging train section will be a big help.
Just curious how you found the process of adjusting the Prism on the OAG-L to provide a good star profile for tracking, and also not shadowing the 2600MM? Just trial and error to find the sweet spot - or - any tips/suggestions?
Thanks!
Congrats! Yes, the prism. I started by just eye-balling it. Then I took a flat image in the house and just ever so slightly moved the prism away from the sensor until it’s shadow just disappeared. On long exposures it does show ever so slightly still but calibrated out perfectly with flats. Hope that helps!
Hi my friend!! Amazing! Thank you!!
Question, how do make the color later on the photos?
I’m new in the hobby :)
Thank you!
Hi Pancho! Sorry for just NOW getting to this; youtube doesn't do a very good job of letting me know when comments are posted.
So with monochrome imaging, you combine your different images inside of something like PixInsight or Photoshop. If you're familiar with photoshop, you can go to the Channel Tab and then it has each individual RED-BLUE-GREEN channel that you can manipulate. What I do is basically put my blue image into the blue channel and so on and then photoshop will combine them to make the color image.
Hope this helps. Please feel free to email me if you have further questions and want a quicker response :-) Midwest.Astro1@gmail.com
Amazing, thanks for sharing this! Do you have any more info on OAGs? Is that a replacement for a dedicated guide scope? Ty
Hi Nicholas - so the OAG or Off Axis Guider is a device that steals light from your primary telescope to use for guiding versus a guide scope. Often times this is beneficial when you hit let's say 1000mm focal length and larger. You can use a guide scope for sure at higher focal lengths but sometimes the guide scope isn't perfectly in line with the primary telescope and can introduce something called flexure which in essence means your two scopes aren't tracking the same thing at the same time at the same amount. So what can happen is your guiding might be spot on, but you have star trails in your image. So using an off axis guider eliminates that error and uses the same exact light coming in to your primary telescope/camera and steals a little bit of that light 'off axis' of the imaging plane. The mirror/prism it uses in my case sits just a couple of millimeters above my camera sensor as to not block light from hitting my camera, but able to grab enough light for itself to project into my guide camera. Hope this helps :-)
@@midwest_astro very helpful, thanks! So you try to position it let's say if your sensor is 4/3 or rectangular (of course circular aperture is always square or equal per side), then position the OAG on the narrower side where light would already have been lost anyways? (Or maybe I'm describing an ideal world...)
@@nicholaspetersen1629 so at 12:27 you can see how I position it. With the ASI2600MM, it's a rectangular sensor of course. I use the top of the long side for my OAG to steal light. That way I can steal more light there than from the sides. Given the sides will be wider in reference to the imaging circle, there's less available space on either of the two shorter sides of the APS-C sensor. If you do the top or bottom there's much more room to align that prism and grab as much light as possible. Hard to describe with out a visual but in the video at that point you can see how I align it.
What size filters are these?
my issue is cleaning the dust-bunnies after its been attached to the filterwheel.
I found what helps me is the Rocket Air so when everything is apart, to try to get as much dust out as possible. Like you said, once it's sealed up it's hard to clean so I take a few extra minutes before sealing it all up to get everything blown out of there. Please don't use compressed air though since that has unnatural chemicals for keeping filters safe; never know if you can possibly damage the coatings.
Do you think that 4Lb image train is a lot?
ASI1600 is ancient camera. You could compare with QHY533m or QHY268m; that could have been fair fight.
Ok I give what’s your favorite football team?
My man spent over 2 minutes saying how big the camera is
Hopefully that wasn't the only thing you were able to take from the video :-) Outside of that, hopefully some aspect of the video was informative or helpful. Clear skies.