Daily SQ Monster System - EXPLAINED - Mundorf, Fostex, Hybrid Audio, Helix, Zapco, Acoustic Elegance
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- Опубликовано: 10 окт 2022
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Punch holes under the rain gutter trim? That’s a genius design car manufacturer. ‘Let’s make this car a strainer when it rains!’ Brilliant
Always blown away by the attention to detail you have. There are no words to describe how awesome the work you do is.
The dash is absolutely monstrous
Old school car stereo guy from the US new to your channel and love it . The content is very informative I've been adjusting my system since watching your content and it's getting better . Thanks for sharing your knowledge .
The clever tricks for eliminating little buzzes between plastic panels and trim beyond sound deadening and foam is the type of content I would like to see, but I'm neurotic about that stuff lol
As in panel to panel?
When it comes to panels that are "permanently" affixed (like door panels with several pieces that are plastic welded or whatever together) something as simple as thick super glue does wonders.
Panel to metal, tesa tape/tighten down the panel further with newer tighter clips.
I like to use high density foam sheets that are thick enough the apply some counter pressure to deal with some of that panel clatter. Especially the rear deck
@@picassoimpaler3243 Agree with your suggestions. Tesa tape and butyl rope has been my approach for most rattles but would like to see of the pros have any other tricks up their sleeves.
@@mkloudsql3285 I have some leftover 1/16" neoprene sheeting that might work for that, thanks.
@@andrewturner1860 those are the main ones I use at work. Its dependent on the rattle though. Super glue in tight gaps of joined panels, butyl in wider gaps, CCF to decouple and put pressure against the clips, tesa tape around clips, Tessa tape between where panels join (if it won't show), stiffening panels with cover plates over holes. That's about all of it that I use.
Oh, for switches, some thick lithium or dielectric grease on the hinges can help.
One that I've never seen people use besides myself is Teflon tape. If a sliding reverse lockout or e brake button will rattle, getting a couple layers of Teflon tape between the rattling surfaces will help quite a bit while staying smooth to press the button. I tend to not so this to clients vehicles for liability reasons though.
I believe Peter enjoys the journey of the install more than the tuning and listening which some may consider the icing of the cake 🎂
That’s the point of the hobby…It’s never finished
flawless
Mark Audio make some very nice full range drivers.
Yes they do…I have a pluvia 7.2 hd front stage
Bravooo Mister Edy🤪👍
I think it's a gorgeously minimalist/brutalist setup, just clean and simple with nothing unnecessary, which IMO, are some of the most appealing visually if done right, which this one definitely is.
The only things I myself would potentially do, would maybe be a faceplate across the top and front of the sub enclosure that blended the enclosure itself, seen from the open hatch, to the interior panels to get rid of gap on the sides, and to be able to have diffused LEDs lighting the acrylic view, but I personally wouldn't cover the acrylic or it's hardware, I'd just butt the beauty panel to it's edge with LEDs diffused right around the edge of that to transfer light to the acrylic, keeping that "industrial" look which I actually dig 👌
Secondly and lastly....Rear Fill.... definitely if it was me, I'd add some. You didn't mention any so I figured you didn't have anything.... IDK, I'm one of those guys that needs the sound enveloping me.... still a gorgeous setup.
Of, and forget that fake suede on the dash if you're worried about it fading (it definitely will), I'd just rewrap it in matching dash colored vinyl.
I agree, i’d do the same, but it’s Edy’s car, so… 😃
Never boring, Only boring to someone who doesn't appreciate sound and just likes listening
Hi Peter! Absolutely amazing install again. I would really love to know what is that fabric you use for the pillars and mid-range section? 🤩
Pillars are Milano suede, dash was first Alcantara, then dinamica.
this thing must crank
Hello Peter, great content as always. I'm always greatly looking forward for your new video to come out... 👍One question - in this and other videos I am observing how you work with the sound deadening materials in the car. You usually use only one layer of one type of sound deadening plates (from Silent Coat I guess) and usually not covering whole 100 % of the area, leaving about 15 % without the material. Which is in my opinion a very good compromise between the sound deadening efficiency and added weight to the car. On the other hand there are sound deadening material manufacturers (like Comfortmat) that have the "more is better" approach and they recommend using several layers of their materials and covering almost 100 % of the treated area. Which for sure helps greatly improving the noise level in the car but at a cost of adding 70 to 100 kilograms of materials to the BMW 5 class combi type of car (treating front door, rear door, trunk + rear wheel arches, outer rear wheel arches, front wheel arches, floor, roof, hood, the fifth door, torpedo). Can you please briefly explain your filosophy behind your approach to the sound deadening? It will help me greatly decide which route to take. Thank you.
Please watch the videos in the “Cheap Sound Quality Car” Playlist where we have very detailed videos breaking down the process of soundproofing a car.
Deadening only minimises panel vibrates, it doesn’t block noise. It’s a stupid way to create a noise barrier with multiple layers of deadening, but that’s what many shops do and create false marketing.
@@pssound9749 Thank you Peter, I will check that out.
What is the cable out of the right air duct ? I am asking for my monk...
Did I hear you mention you guys are building an SQ Competition Fiat Multipla ELX??? 😅🤣
To be fair, I've seen highly customized Multipla's on airbag suspension, nice multispoke 19" wheels, full tint, ALL the sunroofs, and audio .... and it had a different Fiat turbo engine swap, but that's besides the point, the visual additions and customization made it actually look pretty damn cool....
.....for a Multipla 😅
Glad you all ok. As soon as i can, i will go for a visit!....I'm starting to understand some of the magic of sound in cars. That's a car i would never had but it might be a good one for sound experience.....What's the best "cabin" in a virtual world, you would like to work on? Nice job by the way.......Cheers!
All cars have odds and cons. The new Pssound demo car (which is my new daily) may surprise few people. I’ll share it in few days! 👌
@@pssound9749 Thx Peter. Love to be there in person.....One day......one day....all good for you!
Hey Pete - how many pores per inch do you usually get your rainguard?
can you provide a link to where you purchase the "rain guard" for IB applications please??
Search for PA speaker grill foam.
I would add that I am also a big fan of AMT tweeters, they have the speed and delicacy of ribbon tweeters but can be crossed over lower and don’t require transformer coupling.
bloody awesome, i love this, i think definately the box needs some panels or what not to blend it in completely, still looks good as is. also 10 000 miles ? lol ive don 7k in 7 years
I average 38,000 miles a year. That's why I can't lease a new car. I have to buy used in ood shape and maintain it!
@@ricardomolina4605 buying new is not always best option for many people, i see nothing wrong here
Great build guys! Can I ask why 2x18s? Would one IB18 not be plenty with circa 400w and 8" midbass? Does this relate to headroom/ low gain structuring and lowest noise floor?
1x18” would be perfectly enough and it would still have headroom for a bit of fun, but once people experience the mad headroom in the Honda with 2x18”, then some people just can’t have anything less! 😃
@@pssound9749 Thanks for your reply Peter. Can I ask a further question related to this build regarding the midbass. Where kick space is limited to recess a midbass magnet/basket and the driver is mounted magnet out...what frequency can an 8" driver like this play up to without issue? Very limited bandwidth or could this play into midrange without issue? Thanks!
@@artform7325 even if the driver was facing the “normal” way, it wouldn’t really allow you to have great integration to a midrange above 200Hz due to the acoustical properties of the cabin related to the listening position. There are so big problems in the frequency range above that point, that creating a system that fully integrates, where speakers disappear visually becomes very difficult.
If you watch the Tuning playlist here on the channel or the RTA evaluation videos on Patreon, then you get a better insight into all of this madness.
So going back to the beginning: for us it doesn’t matter if the speaker faces with magnet in/out as we can still get problem free response either way in the targeted range.
@pssound What model screen from Aliexpress?
You said something about the narrowness of the stage in this config with the drivers so far out on the dash. Is that something that can be somewhat remedied with the proper implementation of rear fill?
Side note, the whole "focals are harsh" thing kills me. My boss has shelves full of meca trophies, but he still insists it.
Differential rearfill can be useful for sure.
I have 2 questions why do you put the baffle in front of the midbass and why do you install them with the magnet inside the and the cone facing outside 🤔
There’s no space for opposite orientation. You can’t have the magnet hanging out of the wheel arch.
Thanks
Is the tesla truck makes that dash look small
Would this work in a room too ? In a house it would be easy to cut a hole to another room or in the outside walls.
Yes many people do that especially for home cinema, hole into the attic, cellar, other room or outside.
Did I hear correctly, that you're using a HEC BT HD Card and a phone as the source unit? This is a topic I've been researching deeply, lately. I'm trying to weight my options between HEC BT HD, HEC USB and Optical input via Topping D10S. The Topping unit seems to be preferred for quality, while Bluetooth easily wins the convenience factor. We might have too many choices these days. 😆
What is frustrating about Bluetooth is the audio source and receiver have to use the same codec, in this case AptxHD. The HEC BT adapter streams lossless over BT with AptxHD. There is no current generation phone from Samsung, Google, Nokia, Apple, LG, etc. that use AptxHD. There s a Sony that does, but it is over $2k. Yes you can go into developer options and “change” the codec format. What nobody discusses is that if your phone does not support the chosen codec, it will discreetly switch back to standard BT. USB is much preferred for this reason.
Aptx hd isn’t lossless, Bluetooth 5.0 can’t even stream cd quality, it uses a codec with a compression algorithm
Can a 12” Clarus in a sealed enclosure take more than 500 watts? Or do you try to stay at the maximum rated power with these subs?
Clarus 12 is a 250rms sub. You give it more than 300-350 and the coil won’t be happy.
Does the box at the back need to be so big if it's ib?
No, it doesn’t have to be, but we needed mounting space for amps and whatnot.
It's too bad you guys are in the UK. I've got good components, good installation, but feel like a good tuning job with an RTA by pros would make my system WAYYY better, but i'm in Florida, USA and don't want to bring a $500 Hyundai across the pond due to shipping expenses exceeding the value of the car and the audio system. Perhaps it's time to spring for testing equiptment.
Next year we’ll probably have a trip to US and tune dozens of cars.
1st
Streaming lossless via BT? Not possible, even with the advanced codecs like LD4C and aptX HD its always compressed. The best codec available still has less datatransfer than CD quality (~1100 kbit/sec vs. 1440 kbit/sec). So technically there is no lossless Bluetooth streaming available.
Can you hear that? Certainly not. Most people cannot even differentiate between 256kb AAC and CD quality.
Динамик в ногах у водителя , странное решение.
Obviously this mans installation is not a real world, practical& logical installation of audio equipment in a vehicle! An SQ installation does not compromise vehicle operations/ ergonomics or Aesthetics, but instead integrates into the vehicle with transparency & accuracy of components to incorporate musical reproduction to the highest fidelity.
in the world of SQ competition,
experimental designs show up but are completely impractical in the real world! And are only used as Concepts to further progress the understanding Automotive audio technology.. .
Hey Peter what amp would you recommend for two FI IB315’s?? Would that st1350 be suitable? And are you running stock electrical on this setup?
Yes, we’re running on stock electrics. These subs are sensitive and IB doesn’t draw much power either. However, the Fi’s are not that sensitive or musical, but they’re fun for low lows for sure. ST1350 is a good match for 2x15” for sure.
The st1350 was the only zapco amp that did not make rate and had problems which is why they took it off the market...i used to run the 1350 and it was greqt for me but i was lucky