Some tips regarding the project: 1. You can build a jig and use pogo pins for mass programming of the modules 2. You could/should have used a bigger value for the dropper resistor on the LED. That amount of light the LED gives, is pretty much useless. You only want the LED to notify you that the circuit is running, not to light up the room. If you have the datasheet, you can use the U/I plot from there and calculate the resistor value. 3. You could theoretically limit the heating of the motor by limiting the windings to go to saturation. That means you should limit the PWM to a set threshold, based on some measurements. The idea behind this is that, drawing a I/L curve, the inductance will have an upward characteristic, but after some point, the inductance will go down, even if the current through the coil will rise. That's the point where the losses on the motor will start to get higher. To achieve this, the 328p will probably not be enough.. You could use a current shunt, measure the current and amplify the voltage drop, and then pass it through a comparator with a set threshold, which would trigger some interrupts. There is a big story behind this, and you can find a lot of resources online. 4. Since this would be a kickstarter project, I would suggest switching to Atmel Studio for better integration and you'll achieve thighter control over the microcontroller resources, and I assume that would mean that you'll get out of your comfort zone, but you'll master the "real" programming of microcontrollers. Arduino will limit you quite a lot in using the microcontrollers resources as it is supposed to do that automatically without you even reading the datasheet. Overall, you did a great job with this project, and I hope that the kickstarter will be successful. I'm planning to do a similar project on my bachelor thesis, which will be next year :)
You really understand about the topic. I need an not expensive 500A ESC for a bike project. Do you think changing the mosfets and capacitors in a commercial esc I can achieve this ?
I wish there were more people tech savvvy enough to understand how huge an accomplishment this is. Instead theyre off watching someone lick an icecream or arguing about bath water. I hate this planet
Funny. Those of us that are tech savvy are usually introverts that don't get out much, and are less likely to be seen in public. ....like right now... this is my procrastination break with a half finished KiCAD board layout on a laptop in front of me. Commenting on and replying to people from the vids I watched earlier with my morning coffee is my version of "getting out / entertainment." Just don't hang out with the sheeple that lick the cones and dispute the bath waters :-) The internet is a wonderful place to connect people that have no immediate contacts to other "tech savvy" people IRL. I live in one of the most populous places in the world, Los Angeles California. There's SpaceX, Boeing, NASA, and world class universities within 100 kilometers of me, and yet I live in a dead zone with no one (I know) around me that has any depth. They all just stare at idiot boxes all day. So I find people on the internet in places like YT, and try to get them to engage. If you're having trouble finding stuff, click my name, go to the "Channels" tab and start exploring. Most people, like myself that really engage in comments sections (aka 'talk too much') are looking to build community, are very active on YT, and leave our account completely public. My subscriptions, likes list, and playlist references to other people's stuff are all public. I have nothing to gain in sharing this. I'm subscribed to well over 1k channels, have a maximum sized "likes" list with 5k uploads on it, and have a large number of playlists on everything electronics based that I'm interested in. If you can make it through those lists without being overwhelmed, you're a much smarter person than me. There are thousands of people here just like you. Most of us probably feel similarly about the state of our immediate surroundings IRL, and yet often we neglect to realize or appreciate we are all here together right now :-) -Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics I can confirm that, most of the smart people are introverts. I for example, wouldn't want to come off as a narcistic, but i'm a relatively smart dude that does dumb shit once in a while. I have tested my IQ, it is ~175 apparently, i was a member of Mensa until they became too greedy and started asking 120€ per month to continue being a member. I started learning electronics when i was a kid, since i grew up way too poor to own fancy toys and such, so my grandfather ( former professor on the college of applied science) would give me a multimeter, set it on the continuity and i'd go chasing things around to check if they are conductive. That was when i was ~5 years old. After i grew up a bit, i had started to repair toys that we got second hand. Well, i mostly took them apart and attached a loose wire with bubble gum lol. Now, i'm about to finish my college and to get master's degree in mechatronics engineering. I'm a goddamn introvert, i don't have a girlfriend and only have a few friends. I think this is same for most highly intelligent people on the world. Also, your channel is pure awesomness. I'm working on a Arduino Nano based bluetooth multimeter project, that should be small enough to fit in your hand and you should able to get readings on your phone. Mostly doing it as a cheap alternative for Mooshimeter, which is awesome for students but is quite pricy.
What's the accomplishment there? There is VESC, high-end open source ESC. There is Blheli_s, consumer ESCs with open-source firmware. This project is toy-grade.
@@dmitryplatonov BLheli does not compare to this. This dude made a whole thing himself, and i imagine quite cheaply too once you rule out R&D costs. On the other hand, BLheli is still expensive compared to this, and you have to buy it from them, unlike this which you can solder at home. The blheli_s is around 17 dollars a piece, or around 60 bucks for a set of 4. For this, you can get pcbs from JLC for under 5 dollars for all four. The components are SMD, hence dirt cheap. I'd say just a few bucks to make a single ESC.
Wish i had better and much more expressive words than just say thank you for this amazing code and work you put on it, now finally i could finish my ebike project . I tried the code on my version of the three fase mosfet bridge and worked the same as you showed in this video, God bless you and saludos desde Guadalajara, Mexico!
I was going to ask for some review of your kickstarter on the last video but I wasn't sure you were willing to disclose. Its great that you put it out so others can learn from that too. Nice project here too.
I have some ideas for improvements: 1. Switch the hot phase in complementary mode - lower conduction losses (the current will circulate through the low fet channel instead of the antiparallel diode). 2. Have the ground phase be constantly on - no need to switch the low fet. 3. Monitor the battery voltage, at low voltage stop the motor so you have enough juice to dead stick land. 4. Add current sensing to protect the motor, can also be used to improve the PWM scheme by closing the current loop - current = torque = power - current can be sensed at the fets source return (common shunt for all 3 fets). 5. You can then close the speed loop - reciever sets speed demand, speed loop commands the current (torque) loop - this way you can have variable load on the motor and constant rotation speed - not really needed for a RC plane ESC, but it's a learning experience ;-)
Nice work as always. Some suggestions : A) In your kick Starter ESC i think you must include the option the user can upload his own code or maybe next versions of your code .. this is something that will make it more appealed to users. (most new ESC have the option to update their firmware via some tools) so you can include the pin holes to program the ESC with an external FTD1232 or similar B) An other option could be a second Board ESC with the use of an Arduino Pro mini (not for Flight applications) for Ebike, remote cars, boats etc projects i am thinking to build one to use it for my needs but as it is based in your project /schematic i think it would be better for you to make a commercial one
great job friend! it has been waited for a long time, it will allow us to make more different projects, thanks for sharing such a wonderful project. I think V4 will be support absolute encoder for precise control for robotic applications (alternative for o drive :)
Dear Electronoobs, You should consider cleaning your PCB from flux, eg. with acetone. It will be more elegant and will make understanding circuits easier. Best regards
I'd support your kickstarter, i think adding hall sensor functionality would be a perfect idea to make your product a good option to anyone that is trying to make an Ebike - Scooter - ELongboard. And thus, sell more units.
Love what you're doing, keep it up and would definitely support this. Would love to see reversing and taking a bit more space to have proper motor lead solder points would be on my wishlist.
Please reconsider your aim to release this on Kickstarter, there are many who have had their fingers burnt supporting through that platform including me, I would much prefer crowdfunding due to the reduced risk if the venture fails. But great projects and videos, keep it up. :>)
I have a "snap brick" robot controller I'll be releasing a video on soon (plz subscribe). What website specifically are you recommending for crowd funding? (I think kickstarter charges too much).
Since the microcontroller is using low current to drive high current, I believe the buck converter is not necessary. LDO can drive the digital IO while the battery supply will supply current to the motors and other high current connections
Hi, congratulations on the channel and the consistently high-quality content! I’ve been following you for a while and truly appreciate how you explain complex technical concepts in such an accessible way. I’m currently working on a project to develop an ESC for a brushless motor that uses a 23-bit encoder communicating via RS-485. The motor will need to follow the position I send it through the serial, using a 32-bit data input. I’ve already implemented the code to read the motor’s position in real-time, and I was wondering, based on your experience, if it’s possible to avoid using Hall sensors and manage the commutation directly based on the absolute position provided by the encoder. Thank you in advance for any advice or feedback, and keep up the great work!
Very well made, congrulations friend :) In my opinion you may want to change 1N4148 diodes with better shotky low voltage drop diodes. Just an opinion :)
Hey there that's an awesome video on esc and direction changing method is just cherry on cake. But can you please make a proper desrcitive video on various techniques of n channel mosfet bootstrapping and gate driving circuits and gate driver IC's with all necessary information it will be great help to all electronics community and hobbyists Thanks in advance☺
Congratulations man one of the best diy ones out there it would be great if u would make a video about a STM32f4or7 based flight controller which will be compatible with betaflight
I love your videos and I tried to make an ESC myself Surprisingly, I came up with a very similar design as yours but it didn't work. The thing was I didnt know hoe to use mosfets so I aligned them incorrectly. Now I am going back to the project and finish it.
I'm not particularly interested in FPV/RC stuff, but don't let that discourage you. I'm just one subscriber/viewer. However, I thought Kickstarter was dead. I know Mick over on the Mick Makes channel has mentioned how most people seemed to have moved to "Crowd Supply" instead. Apparently CS doesn't cause the end customer to be quite as vulnerable to the failures and frauds that Kickstarter and Indigogo have become known for. It's worth taking a look at that platform IMO. I also recommend watching and subscribing to Mick Makes if you haven't already. He does a lot of reviews of other people's hardware from all over the world along with developing his own. I have seen several RUclipsrs over the last year that have followed a similar, "mostly review hardware/occasionally release your own hardware" RUclips channel format. Mick does it well. He's got a great and under rated channel. This project looks interesting. If I were into this kind of thing, perhaps I would try to buy one. Lastly, I understand why you are not trying to add the USB CH340G stuff in this application, but have you seen the CH340E stuff that is being pushed on AliEx more now? It's a smaller TSSOP-10 package, but it looks like it doesn't require a crystal either. It's got the required UART + DTR pins. I just ordered a breakout board and 10 chips to try it. The cheapest chips I found were $0.32 each with a total order shipping price of $0.42 on AliEx. That's $0.74 in single order quantity, or $0.362 each in a quantity of 10. The newest Ardy Nano compatible stuff from China also has this chip. The CH340G will probably still be my go-to chip for hand soldering, but I've been playing with smaller layout designs and the CH340E looks like a great option for reducing the board space requirements of the CH340G and crystal. Thanks for the upload and good luck with the crowd funding campaign. -Jake
Its not about what u can buy for cheap it is about what he has achieved and code for such a simple thing is very complex now thing about what kind of code u would have to write if u want to make something similar to O-Drive
I never used the office but I've looked over the schematic and there are drivers and mosfets so seems quite like this one but the only difference would be the code you use. That's why this is open source so any make could get my code and change it and make improvements.... Keep up!
Great project as always!!! I've built and I've been using your 7 channel RC system on a couple of RC vehicles for my boys and it's been working without a glitch. I'm really interested in this and as I'm building a quad and I'd love to try your design. Well done and keep creating!!!
Are you considering selling the board and the components as a kit? I'm not being cheeky or lazy, but with kids and full time job I'm a bit short of spare time... :-D Regards
Beautiful Project ! Love it ! I see that the Pcb can be Designed for higher Current . I make a lot of prototype electronics for ROV robotics . One of my main issue is that the market don't supply those kinds of platforms . If you don't mind I can give you a suggestion ? It wold be beautiful if a Dual channel ESC board is made for High Current capabilities with the forward and backward speed control . The ideal robotics platform wold be 2 x brushless control with a digital relay output in case of signal loss and a 10 to 15 amp 5 Volt BEC to be used for high current Servos that can be also in the main Board controlled by a different arduino Chip . Just a nice big universal robot control board . I did several of this Multipurpose platform for my robots . Just by the plain reason cause I don't want to be stuck by the limited robot tech that there's on the market . And for being Open Source ! I truly believe that those kinds of things will be revolutionary for any Hobbyist . Hope you get to read this message soon :) have a nice day
Nice use of the analog comparator! With the release of the arduino nano every, it has the new ATMega4809, which features a faster ADC. do you think with the ATMega4809, an integrating trapezoidal control algorithm would be possible? I got such an algorithm to work with the STM32F446RE, sampling all three phases at 70kHz, asynchronously to the main control loop and PWM signals, and implemented filters in the resistor dividers. I'm sure it would still work at 50khz, but just not as well at 100k ERPM.
the buck converter should be on a separate board and so should the microcontroller. this way everything is modular and smaller and easier to fit in your project with a more flexible form factor to fit it into tight places as needed.
but GREAT job overall and this is just my preference based on my projects use case but is not necessary and maybe not even best just for learning case like this board may be for. I am meaning more for use in actual projects
Nice project, I have been lookiing for something like this and it seems very polished and thought out. Since it is an OpenSource project are you going to release the source code and pcb design files for it? I could certainly see paying for a completed/fully assembled device as it would be worth it. Definitely well done!
@@praveenwinrap7510 Need little modification on PCB side and Code side 1. Have to add Relay or MOSFETs units for dynamic braking. (Disconnect the power and short-circuit the terminal with a resistance). 2. Code wise just add a lines when pwm is zero and speed is observed initiate breaking. Or better have another idea without any modifications but need to test.
first of all, thank for your project, now i can make my own esc. but i still can not reverse the direction. i think you can brake it immediately by connect A B &C wire together( maybe short them to gnd at the the same thime), i brake it already. yes, i did it by hand(lol), i installed a fan to the motor and facing with another running-fan, then boom!, i brake it. hope its helpfull for you :))
Hi, thanks to you for all your dedicated works. I actually can get my own projects working faster because of all your hints. I'm also in the process of designing a 144 VDC 6-phase inverter. I do have a question! Why use a voltage divider to read the bemf instead of shunt resistors connected to an high current shunt monitor chip ? Thanks
None... Most ESCs have an ATMega8A and are supported by SimonK... You could also flash this firmware with some tweaking (I don't see why you would want to do that)
This projects looks cool, but the schematic you presented for sensing the BEMF will fry the microcontroller at voltages higher than 12ish volts. Did you add a divider to the neutral point too? Really like the new board btw, the old one had some power dissipation issues.
@@ELECTRONOOBS Yes but the VNP is approximately the supply voltage divided by two. I have seen bad schematics online which divide the three phases but not the VNP. Here is a link to an ideal setup: imgur.com/a/CskN30V. I think your ESC works because you take the neutral point after division, after looking at your schematic. You wouldn't need to denounce your comparator in the code so much if you took the VNP separately. This would allow for higher speeds!
great project! i would love to see a continous current test with these boards, the mosfet rating is insane. also, i like the idea of a kickstarter and would probably get my own board, but i didn't quite understand if you plan on selling them pre-assembled or as a kit. personally, i'd prefer a kit to level-up my smd soldering :)
@@ELECTRONOOBS Sure thing! In my research, having a board populated is expensive: $5 for 3x5pxb and possible increase cost in components and/or shipping to send them components. Have you found good prices?
The silk mask in the video shows V3, but the one you are selling and I bought - has V2 on it. Please explain. Also, I think we need a version that would allow us to use another - more readily available microcontroller in this day and age :-) Microcontroller you picked is famously unavailable atm. Thanks!
Hello. I would like to make an ESC with an stm32 microcontroller based on your Arduino project. However, I am having trouble detecting the zero crossing of the BEMF using a comparator. I would like to ask for your help. Is the virtual neutral of your circuit a continuous waveform? Or is it a waveform synchronized with the PWM?
Will this size pcb work with larger motor like from a washing machine? How many separate electric motors can you connect at once? How would you know what the max your board can control? Would larger motor require more then 24volts
I’m curious. When you return your control back to zero/standby position it seems like the motor spins for a significant length of time before stopping. It this something in the code or is it something in the ESD itself that causes a long deceleration time?
Awesome Stuff. Been watching you since your first ESC years back. Your website only has the Gerbers for v1. I know v3 is for kickstarter, but what about v2?
I find ESC Gerber file and schematic to 5years, I can't get ,I trying too, but fail. You are first person ,you tech me ESC and diagram You are welcome. Sir 🤗
You should employ braking in your code if you're going to split the stick to run forward and reverse direction , changing commanded direction before the motor dissipates its inertia will stress the fets and possibly kill them.
Hey i look at Your work, it's gooood ;) The maximum voltage is rated to 600V of external power source? If i separate 2101 supply from vcc of trasistor and change the mosfets to IGBT i will able to use up to 600V DC, one more thing to do is to add the voltage divider that will handle so high differences in voltage, what the minimal that Arduino can read? If i for exemple give 330k as R1 and 3,2K as R2 of the divider at 500V i will get 4,8V and on 12V i will have 0,115V, will Arduino handle to read this?
I have look at arduino specyfication and minimal voltage that nano will support is 5V / 1024 = 0,0048828125V so changing the voltage divider parameters let me use voltage in range 6-500V.
Some tips regarding the project:
1. You can build a jig and use pogo pins for mass programming of the modules
2. You could/should have used a bigger value for the dropper resistor on the LED. That amount of light the LED gives, is pretty much useless. You only want the LED to notify you that the circuit is running, not to light up the room. If you have the datasheet, you can use the U/I plot from there and calculate the resistor value.
3. You could theoretically limit the heating of the motor by limiting the windings to go to saturation. That means you should limit the PWM to a set threshold, based on some measurements. The idea behind this is that, drawing a I/L curve, the inductance will have an upward characteristic, but after some point, the inductance will go down, even if the current through the coil will rise. That's the point where the losses on the motor will start to get higher. To achieve this, the 328p will probably not be enough.. You could use a current shunt, measure the current and amplify the voltage drop, and then pass it through a comparator with a set threshold, which would trigger some interrupts. There is a big story behind this, and you can find a lot of resources online.
4. Since this would be a kickstarter project, I would suggest switching to Atmel Studio for better integration and you'll achieve thighter control over the microcontroller resources, and I assume that would mean that you'll get out of your comfort zone, but you'll master the "real" programming of microcontrollers. Arduino will limit you quite a lot in using the microcontrollers resources as it is supposed to do that automatically without you even reading the datasheet.
Overall, you did a great job with this project, and I hope that the kickstarter will be successful. I'm planning to do a similar project on my bachelor thesis, which will be next year :)
You really understand about the topic. I need an not expensive 500A ESC for a bike project. Do you think changing the mosfets and capacitors in a commercial esc I can achieve this ?
Not even GreatScott built a proper BEMF ESC😮. Well done bro
Thank you!
He got the RC filters backwards on the comparator inputs.
Did you test it? I found some errors.....
GreatScott is best solder men.😂😂😂😂
Don't want to sound like an asshole but GreatScott isn't all that great at electronics.
Fantastic design! Many have tried and only you have succeeded! Congratulations. The best project of the year!
Thank you so much
I'm learning industrial 3 phase and plcs' s. Quadcopter motor control has allowed me to see what the numbers and formulas do. Your board is awesome..
Nice idea using the motor as a speaker, I would never have thought of that.
I wish there were more people tech savvvy enough to understand how huge an accomplishment this is. Instead theyre off watching someone lick an icecream or arguing about bath water. I hate this planet
Funny. Those of us that are tech savvy are usually introverts that don't get out much, and are less likely to be seen in public.
....like right now... this is my procrastination break with a half finished KiCAD board layout on a laptop in front of me. Commenting on and replying to people from the vids I watched earlier with my morning coffee is my version of "getting out / entertainment."
Just don't hang out with the sheeple that lick the cones and dispute the bath waters :-)
The internet is a wonderful place to connect people that have no immediate contacts to other "tech savvy" people IRL.
I live in one of the most populous places in the world, Los Angeles California. There's SpaceX, Boeing, NASA, and world class universities within 100 kilometers of me, and yet I live in a dead zone with no one (I know) around me that has any depth. They all just stare at idiot boxes all day. So I find people on the internet in places like YT, and try to get them to engage.
If you're having trouble finding stuff, click my name, go to the "Channels" tab and start exploring. Most people, like myself that really engage in comments sections (aka 'talk too much') are looking to build community, are very active on YT, and leave our account completely public. My subscriptions, likes list, and playlist references to other people's stuff are all public. I have nothing to gain in sharing this. I'm subscribed to well over 1k channels, have a maximum sized "likes" list with 5k uploads on it, and have a large number of playlists on everything electronics based that I'm interested in. If you can make it through those lists without being overwhelmed, you're a much smarter person than me.
There are thousands of people here just like you. Most of us probably feel similarly about the state of our immediate surroundings IRL, and yet often we neglect to realize or appreciate we are all here together right now :-)
-Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics , you sound interesting. Just added you. Check out my channel as well.
@@UpcycleElectronics I can confirm that, most of the smart people are introverts.
I for example, wouldn't want to come off as a narcistic, but i'm a relatively smart dude that does dumb shit once in a while.
I have tested my IQ, it is
~175 apparently, i was a member of Mensa until they became too greedy and started asking 120€ per month to continue being a member.
I started learning electronics when i was a kid, since i grew up way too poor to own fancy toys and such, so my grandfather ( former professor on the college of applied science) would give me a multimeter, set it on the continuity and i'd go chasing things around to check if they are conductive.
That was when i was ~5 years old.
After i grew up a bit, i had started to repair toys that we got second hand. Well, i mostly took them apart and attached a loose wire with bubble gum lol.
Now, i'm about to finish my college and to get master's degree in mechatronics engineering.
I'm a goddamn introvert, i don't have a girlfriend and only have a few friends.
I think this is same for most highly intelligent people on the world.
Also, your channel is pure awesomness. I'm working on a Arduino Nano based bluetooth multimeter project, that should be small enough to fit in your hand and you should able to get readings on your phone.
Mostly doing it as a cheap alternative for Mooshimeter, which is awesome for students but is quite pricy.
What's the accomplishment there? There is VESC, high-end open source ESC. There is Blheli_s, consumer ESCs with open-source firmware. This project is toy-grade.
@@dmitryplatonov BLheli does not compare to this.
This dude made a whole thing himself, and i imagine quite cheaply too once you rule out R&D costs.
On the other hand, BLheli is still expensive compared to this, and you have to buy it from them, unlike this which you can solder at home.
The blheli_s is around 17 dollars a piece, or around 60 bucks for a set of 4.
For this, you can get pcbs from JLC for under 5 dollars for all four.
The components are SMD, hence dirt cheap.
I'd say just a few bucks to make a single ESC.
Wish i had better and much more expressive words than just say thank you for this amazing code and work you put on it, now finally i could finish my ebike project . I tried the code on my version of the three fase mosfet bridge and worked the same as you showed in this video, God bless you and saludos desde Guadalajara, Mexico!
So gald to hear that!
I was going to ask for some review of your kickstarter on the last video but I wasn't sure you were willing to disclose. Its great that you put it out so others can learn from that too. Nice project here too.
Waiting for this for a long time. Thank you very much!!!
I have some ideas for improvements:
1. Switch the hot phase in complementary mode - lower conduction losses (the current will circulate through the low fet channel instead of the antiparallel diode).
2. Have the ground phase be constantly on - no need to switch the low fet.
3. Monitor the battery voltage, at low voltage stop the motor so you have enough juice to dead stick land.
4. Add current sensing to protect the motor, can also be used to improve the PWM scheme by closing the current loop - current = torque = power - current can be sensed at the fets source return (common shunt for all 3 fets).
5. You can then close the speed loop - reciever sets speed demand, speed loop commands the current (torque) loop - this way you can have variable load on the motor and constant rotation speed - not really needed for a RC plane ESC, but it's a learning experience ;-)
Nice work as always. Some suggestions :
A) In your kick Starter ESC i think you must include the option the user can upload his own code or maybe next versions of your code ..
this is something that will make it more appealed to users. (most new ESC have the option to update their firmware via some tools)
so you can include the pin holes to program the ESC with an external FTD1232 or similar
B) An other option could be a second Board ESC with the use of an Arduino Pro mini (not for Flight applications) for Ebike, remote cars, boats etc projects
i am thinking to build one to use it for my needs but as it is based in your project /schematic i think it would be better for you to make a commercial one
The board has both UART and ISP pins for programming
great job friend!
it has been waited for a long time,
it will allow us to make more different projects,
thanks for sharing such a wonderful project.
I think V4 will be support absolute encoder for precise control for robotic applications (alternative for o drive :)
Dear Electronoobs,
You should consider cleaning your PCB from flux, eg. with acetone. It will be more elegant and will make understanding circuits easier.
Best regards
Sorry, i've done that after I've recorded the video... I'll be more careful next time
Acetone might remove the solder mask
I'd support your kickstarter, i think adding hall sensor functionality would be a perfect idea to make your product a good option to anyone that is trying to make an Ebike - Scooter - ELongboard. And thus, sell more units.
I would love for you to offer a kit version of this on kickstarter for those masochists that like SMD soldering :P
I want to buy this. I can learn so much from it. Thank you for the video.
Love what you're doing, keep it up and would definitely support this. Would love to see reversing and taking a bit more space to have proper motor lead solder points would be on my wishlist.
Very impressed, particularly as the erpm at 20,000rpm with that outrunner must be pretty high! Great job.
Please reconsider your aim to release this on Kickstarter, there are many who have had their fingers burnt supporting through that platform including me, I would much prefer crowdfunding due to the reduced risk if the venture fails. But great projects and videos, keep it up. :>)
I'll look over that. Thanks!
I have a "snap brick" robot controller I'll be releasing a video on soon (plz subscribe). What website specifically are you recommending for crowd funding? (I think kickstarter charges too much).
Since the microcontroller is using low current to drive high current, I believe the buck converter is not necessary. LDO can drive the digital IO while the battery supply will supply current to the motors and other high current connections
Good luck with the pick and place. They take quite sometime to setup let alone use!
Where is kickstarter link?
Make some tour for best price/power mosfets from 30A and up to handling 150-200A and above
Yes please! ♥️🥰
yeah 5kw so we can put these in our cars.
You are the best because you open the door of opportunities.
Hi, congratulations on the channel and the consistently high-quality content! I’ve been following you for a while and truly appreciate how you explain complex technical concepts in such an accessible way.
I’m currently working on a project to develop an ESC for a brushless motor that uses a 23-bit encoder communicating via RS-485. The motor will need to follow the position I send it through the serial, using a 32-bit data input. I’ve already implemented the code to read the motor’s position in real-time, and I was wondering, based on your experience, if it’s possible to avoid using Hall sensors and manage the commutation directly based on the absolute position provided by the encoder.
Thank you in advance for any advice or feedback, and keep up the great work!
you can also send it to other youtubers for review if thats a kickstarter
Consider me on board for the Kickstarter. I will need 6 of these here in about 6 months.
Can you please put 4 of them on a drone and fly it? It would be great. Also great work with the ESC.
Wow that's very impressive👏👍 good luck with kickstarter.
Voy a esperar la versión en español del video porque no entendí nada pero está buenísimo!!!
Very well made, congrulations friend :) In my opinion you may want to change 1N4148 diodes with better shotky low voltage drop diodes. Just an opinion :)
Very nice, congrats! Any chance there will be inputs for encoder feedback??? If so, i would be sold!
Hey there that's an awesome video on esc and direction changing method is just cherry on cake. But can you please make a proper desrcitive video on various techniques of n channel mosfet bootstrapping and gate driving circuits and gate driver IC's with all necessary information it will be great help to all electronics community and hobbyists Thanks in advance☺
Very well done project and video, though you don’t explain the purpose of the banana seen through 1:28. 🙂
Congratulations man one of the best diy ones out there it would be great if u would make a video about a STM32f4or7 based flight controller which will be compatible with betaflight
Yeah i also want a video on this.
I love your videos and I tried to make an ESC myself
Surprisingly, I came up with a very similar design as yours but it didn't work. The thing was I didnt know hoe to use mosfets so I aligned them incorrectly. Now I am going back to the project and finish it.
Happy to hear that. Good luck!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Thank you!!! and hope your kick starter is successful!
This is great work congratulation my friend !!
Have you considered adding an engine brake feature ?
I'm not particularly interested in FPV/RC stuff, but don't let that discourage you. I'm just one subscriber/viewer.
However, I thought Kickstarter was dead. I know Mick over on the Mick Makes channel has mentioned how most people seemed to have moved to "Crowd Supply" instead. Apparently CS doesn't cause the end customer to be quite as vulnerable to the failures and frauds that Kickstarter and Indigogo have become known for. It's worth taking a look at that platform IMO.
I also recommend watching and subscribing to Mick Makes if you haven't already. He does a lot of reviews of other people's hardware from all over the world along with developing his own. I have seen several RUclipsrs over the last year that have followed a similar, "mostly review hardware/occasionally release your own hardware" RUclips channel format. Mick does it well. He's got a great and under rated channel.
This project looks interesting. If I were into this kind of thing, perhaps I would try to buy one.
Lastly, I understand why you are not trying to add the USB CH340G stuff in this application, but have you seen the CH340E stuff that is being pushed on AliEx more now? It's a smaller TSSOP-10 package, but it looks like it doesn't require a crystal either. It's got the required UART + DTR pins. I just ordered a breakout board and 10 chips to try it. The cheapest chips I found were $0.32 each with a total order shipping price of $0.42 on AliEx. That's $0.74 in single order quantity, or $0.362 each in a quantity of 10.
The newest Ardy Nano compatible stuff from China also has this chip.
The CH340G will probably still be my go-to chip for hand soldering, but I've been playing with smaller layout designs and the CH340E looks like a great option for reducing the board space requirements of the CH340G and crystal.
Thanks for the upload and good luck with the crowd funding campaign.
-Jake
Thank you very much for all your tips. I'll consider all of this. Thanks again!
Please Please Please make next ESC something like a mini affordable version of O-Drive. As kind of ESCs you made are already available cheaply.
Its not about what u can buy for cheap it is about what he has achieved and code for such a simple thing is very complex now thing about what kind of code u would have to write if u want to make something similar to O-Drive
I never used the office but I've looked over the schematic and there are drivers and mosfets so seems quite like this one but the only difference would be the code you use. That's why this is open source so any make could get my code and change it and make improvements.... Keep up!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Thank you for the reply, O-Drive implements the use of Field Oriented Control, do you plan to explain or implement FOC in future?
@@nazirahmadshah367 Exactly! I wasn't demeaning this project but suggesting future projects and direction this ESC video series could go.
@@ELECTRONOOBS you can decrease the pcb size significantly if u use qfn packages of the MOSFETs and the microcontroller
Great project as always!!! I've built and I've been using your 7 channel RC system on a couple of RC vehicles for my boys and it's been working without a glitch. I'm really interested in this and as I'm building a quad and I'd love to try your design. Well done and keep creating!!!
Glad to hear this! Feel free to share your projects on electronoobs.io keep up!
Are you considering selling the board and the components as a kit? I'm not being cheeky or lazy, but with kids and full time job I'm a bit short of spare time... :-D Regards
Great project! Maybe try with 4in1 esc for drones? :)
Beautiful Project ! Love it ! I see that the Pcb can be Designed for higher Current . I make a lot of prototype electronics for ROV robotics . One of my main issue is that the market don't supply those kinds of platforms . If you don't mind I can give you a suggestion ? It wold be beautiful if a Dual channel ESC board is made for High Current capabilities with the forward and backward speed control . The ideal robotics platform wold be 2 x brushless control with a digital relay output in case of signal loss and a 10 to 15 amp 5 Volt BEC to be used for high current Servos that can be also in the main Board controlled by a different arduino Chip . Just a nice big universal robot control board . I did several of this Multipurpose platform for my robots . Just by the plain reason cause I don't want to be stuck by the limited robot tech that there's on the market . And for being Open Source ! I truly believe that those kinds of things will be revolutionary for any Hobbyist . Hope you get to read this message soon :) have a nice day
Lo espero en tu canal en español bro
Thats so awesome . I was to make one and came across your beautiful work! Love from India :-)
Nice job Electronoobs! Did you implement some kind of current sensing / current chopping? Or do you just put full power through the coils?
Nice use of the analog comparator! With the release of the arduino nano every, it has the new ATMega4809, which features a faster ADC. do you think with the ATMega4809, an integrating trapezoidal control algorithm would be possible?
I got such an algorithm to work with the STM32F446RE, sampling all three phases at 70kHz, asynchronously to the main control loop and PWM signals, and implemented filters in the resistor dividers. I'm sure it would still work at 50khz, but just not as well at 100k ERPM.
I was just gonna say that... I have plans to use that single analog comparator as a current sensor... Just have to touch up on my coding
¡ Gracias por compartir !, Saludos desde México.
where can download pcb v3,thanks
Looks good! Next step is a cheap O-Drive alternative. ;-)
Fantastic work, dude! Really great project!!! 😃
the buck converter should be on a separate board and so should the microcontroller. this way everything is modular and smaller and easier to fit in your project with a more flexible form factor to fit it into tight places as needed.
but GREAT job overall and this is just my preference based on my projects use case but is not necessary and maybe not even best just for learning case like this board may be for. I am meaning more for use in actual projects
Nice project, I have been lookiing for something like this and it seems very polished and thought out. Since it is an OpenSource project are you going to release the source code and pcb design files for it? I could certainly see paying for a completed/fully assembled device as it would be worth it. Definitely well done!
it would be cool if you made a vesc for a longboard. Is there such a project in the plans?
Hi.can sudden Braking is possible with BLDC Motor?using your board??
Probably Not.
Thanks@@GM_handle22 then how can i achieve that??any suggestions??
@@praveenwinrap7510 Need little modification on PCB side and Code side
1. Have to add Relay or MOSFETs units for dynamic braking. (Disconnect the power and short-circuit the terminal with a resistance).
2. Code wise just add a lines when pwm is zero and speed is observed initiate breaking.
Or better have another idea without any modifications but need to test.
Look like commercial esc great work
Very impressive project, beautifully done.
first of all, thank for your project, now i can make my own esc. but i still can not reverse the direction. i think you can brake it immediately by connect A B &C wire together( maybe short them to gnd at the the same thime), i brake it already. yes, i did it by hand(lol), i installed a fan to the motor and facing with another running-fan, then boom!, i brake it. hope its helpfull for you :))
Cool project. I would like to make some changes to the PCB (remove the USB). Are the Eagle, Kicad, Diptrace or Easyeda files available?
Yeah i am interested in buying this awesome esc and love you electronoobs 😙😙😙
Great Job bro.. You are a professional Teacher for me. Love u bro.
Please teach how to build our own flight controler for drone
Hi, thanks to you for all your dedicated works. I actually can get my own projects working faster because of all your hints. I'm also in the process of designing a 144 VDC 6-phase inverter. I do have a question! Why use a voltage divider to read the bemf instead of shunt resistors connected to an high current shunt monitor chip ? Thanks
What you lack in soldering skill, you make up for in the design! I one day, hope to be that proficient. (in designing, not soldering lol)
Absolutely gorgeous BLDC! May I add hte request to add mounting holes, please?
how many amps did the buck converter produce ? and what is the frequency of the pwm? is it 50Hz ?
Awesome video........so many details at 1 place.....plz share V3 details as well :-)
Thank you . This is a nice project for my mini drone
Nice board. For Kickstarter: What are the advantages over a commercial ESC?
I guess that its open source and you can adapt components and code to your needs?
None... Most ESCs have an ATMega8A and are supported by SimonK... You could also flash this firmware with some tweaking (I don't see why you would want to do that)
adding a zener diode to the clamp the voltage on the BEMF pins would allow more sensitivity, all you care about is the zero crossing, nothing else...
Can you make a video on how transistor work as a switch and amplifier in different mode.plz
..
This projects looks cool, but the schematic you presented for sensing the BEMF will fry the microcontroller at voltages higher than 12ish volts. Did you add a divider to the neutral point too? Really like the new board btw, the old one had some power dissipation issues.
Hi. What do you mean? The sensing dividers are of 10K with 33K and that will lower the voltage to around 2.7V.
@@ELECTRONOOBS Yes but the VNP is approximately the supply voltage divided by two. I have seen bad schematics online which divide the three phases but not the VNP. Here is a link to an ideal setup: imgur.com/a/CskN30V. I think your ESC works because you take the neutral point after division, after looking at your schematic. You wouldn't need to denounce your comparator in the code so much if you took the VNP separately. This would allow for higher speeds!
great project! i would love to see a continous current test with these boards, the mosfet rating is insane. also, i like the idea of a kickstarter and would probably get my own board, but i didn't quite understand if you plan on selling them pre-assembled or as a kit. personally, i'd prefer a kit to level-up my smd soldering :)
The idea is to make them preassembled with a pick and place. But I never done that so if I can't do that, well maybe a kit. Not sure yet....
@@ELECTRONOOBS pick and place ideally needs all smd components on one side of the pcb. (It can be done on both, but gets way more complicated.)
@@TheRainHarvester thank you for that. I'll have to ask this to the PCB manufacturer and see what they will say...
@@ELECTRONOOBS Sure thing! In my research, having a board populated is expensive: $5 for 3x5pxb and possible increase cost in components and/or shipping to send them components. Have you found good prices?
The silk mask in the video shows V3, but the one you are selling and I bought - has V2 on it. Please explain.
Also, I think we need a version that would allow us to use another - more readily available microcontroller in this day and age :-) Microcontroller you picked is famously unavailable atm. Thanks!
Interesting project, does it support d-shot?
Yes I'm really interested... But I need ESC asap... How long does it take to have the kickstarter ? Regards
Any chance to add a sensor input for low speed fine control (when the back emf is not effective)?
What a legend. Excellent video. Thank you so much.
Hello. I would like to make an ESC with an stm32 microcontroller based on your Arduino project. However, I am having trouble detecting the zero crossing of the BEMF using a comparator. I would like to ask for your help. Is the virtual neutral of your circuit a continuous waveform? Or is it a waveform synchronized with the PWM?
Thank you for making this open source! Do you have any plans to release the bidirectional code?
Cool controller. Is it possible to power it up and adapt it for an electric skateboard and make a smooth braking function with a stick?
Hope for V4 you add some protect motor like over current
An excellent Explain & video ,Thank you for sharing your knowledge . Thanks.
A huge accomplishment ..!!!
Respect..🙏
Thanks!
Electronoob...did you study Elektronics at University? Where do you have your Knowledge from?
You explain very good
introduction ends at 3:29
I like your wall decoration haha
Will this size pcb work with larger motor like from a washing machine? How many separate electric motors can you connect at once? How would you know what the max your board can control? Would larger motor require more then 24volts
I’m curious. When you return your control back to zero/standby position it seems like the motor spins for a significant length of time before stopping. It this something in the code or is it something in the ESD itself that causes a long deceleration time?
Awesome Stuff. Been watching you since your first ESC years back.
Your website only has the Gerbers for v1. I know v3 is for kickstarter, but what about v2?
electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_tut91_gerbers1.php Here you will find version 1 and 2. Keep up.
I am interested in getting one of these, have you considered developing a reliable bms for an ebike battery pack.
Hello sir thank you for sharing knowledge.when you upload your 3rd ESC links?
Was waiting for it
I am sharing this video to all my friends😃😃😃😃😃
cool! can you get the components from the pcb provider?
I find ESC Gerber file and schematic to 5years, I can't get ,I trying too, but fail.
You are first person ,you tech me ESC and diagram
You are welcome. Sir 🤗
what is the buck converter 5V IC?thanks
moon ford step-down dc-dc converter
You should employ braking in your code if you're going to split the stick to run forward and reverse direction , changing commanded direction before the motor dissipates its inertia will stress the fets and possibly kill them.
hello, you can separate the controller supply and the motor supply to enter voltages higher than 24 volts? (of course, changing the mosfets)
Maybe just use a different buck controller ic that goes over 24v
I always enjoy your work, bravo is all I can say!!!!!!!
Hey i look at Your work, it's gooood ;) The maximum voltage is rated to 600V of external power source? If i separate 2101 supply from vcc of trasistor and change the mosfets to IGBT i will able to use up to 600V DC, one more thing to do is to add the voltage divider that will handle so high differences in voltage, what the minimal that Arduino can read? If i for exemple give 330k as R1 and 3,2K as R2 of the divider at 500V i will get 4,8V and on 12V i will have 0,115V, will Arduino handle to read this?
I have look at arduino specyfication and minimal voltage that nano will support is 5V / 1024 = 0,0048828125V so changing the voltage divider parameters let me use voltage in range 6-500V.