Some tips regarding the project: 1. You can build a jig and use pogo pins for mass programming of the modules 2. You could/should have used a bigger value for the dropper resistor on the LED. That amount of light the LED gives, is pretty much useless. You only want the LED to notify you that the circuit is running, not to light up the room. If you have the datasheet, you can use the U/I plot from there and calculate the resistor value. 3. You could theoretically limit the heating of the motor by limiting the windings to go to saturation. That means you should limit the PWM to a set threshold, based on some measurements. The idea behind this is that, drawing a I/L curve, the inductance will have an upward characteristic, but after some point, the inductance will go down, even if the current through the coil will rise. That's the point where the losses on the motor will start to get higher. To achieve this, the 328p will probably not be enough.. You could use a current shunt, measure the current and amplify the voltage drop, and then pass it through a comparator with a set threshold, which would trigger some interrupts. There is a big story behind this, and you can find a lot of resources online. 4. Since this would be a kickstarter project, I would suggest switching to Atmel Studio for better integration and you'll achieve thighter control over the microcontroller resources, and I assume that would mean that you'll get out of your comfort zone, but you'll master the "real" programming of microcontrollers. Arduino will limit you quite a lot in using the microcontrollers resources as it is supposed to do that automatically without you even reading the datasheet. Overall, you did a great job with this project, and I hope that the kickstarter will be successful. I'm planning to do a similar project on my bachelor thesis, which will be next year :)
You really understand about the topic. I need an not expensive 500A ESC for a bike project. Do you think changing the mosfets and capacitors in a commercial esc I can achieve this ?
I wish there were more people tech savvvy enough to understand how huge an accomplishment this is. Instead theyre off watching someone lick an icecream or arguing about bath water. I hate this planet
Funny. Those of us that are tech savvy are usually introverts that don't get out much, and are less likely to be seen in public. ....like right now... this is my procrastination break with a half finished KiCAD board layout on a laptop in front of me. Commenting on and replying to people from the vids I watched earlier with my morning coffee is my version of "getting out / entertainment." Just don't hang out with the sheeple that lick the cones and dispute the bath waters :-) The internet is a wonderful place to connect people that have no immediate contacts to other "tech savvy" people IRL. I live in one of the most populous places in the world, Los Angeles California. There's SpaceX, Boeing, NASA, and world class universities within 100 kilometers of me, and yet I live in a dead zone with no one (I know) around me that has any depth. They all just stare at idiot boxes all day. So I find people on the internet in places like YT, and try to get them to engage. If you're having trouble finding stuff, click my name, go to the "Channels" tab and start exploring. Most people, like myself that really engage in comments sections (aka 'talk too much') are looking to build community, are very active on YT, and leave our account completely public. My subscriptions, likes list, and playlist references to other people's stuff are all public. I have nothing to gain in sharing this. I'm subscribed to well over 1k channels, have a maximum sized "likes" list with 5k uploads on it, and have a large number of playlists on everything electronics based that I'm interested in. If you can make it through those lists without being overwhelmed, you're a much smarter person than me. There are thousands of people here just like you. Most of us probably feel similarly about the state of our immediate surroundings IRL, and yet often we neglect to realize or appreciate we are all here together right now :-) -Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics I can confirm that, most of the smart people are introverts. I for example, wouldn't want to come off as a narcistic, but i'm a relatively smart dude that does dumb shit once in a while. I have tested my IQ, it is ~175 apparently, i was a member of Mensa until they became too greedy and started asking 120€ per month to continue being a member. I started learning electronics when i was a kid, since i grew up way too poor to own fancy toys and such, so my grandfather ( former professor on the college of applied science) would give me a multimeter, set it on the continuity and i'd go chasing things around to check if they are conductive. That was when i was ~5 years old. After i grew up a bit, i had started to repair toys that we got second hand. Well, i mostly took them apart and attached a loose wire with bubble gum lol. Now, i'm about to finish my college and to get master's degree in mechatronics engineering. I'm a goddamn introvert, i don't have a girlfriend and only have a few friends. I think this is same for most highly intelligent people on the world. Also, your channel is pure awesomness. I'm working on a Arduino Nano based bluetooth multimeter project, that should be small enough to fit in your hand and you should able to get readings on your phone. Mostly doing it as a cheap alternative for Mooshimeter, which is awesome for students but is quite pricy.
What's the accomplishment there? There is VESC, high-end open source ESC. There is Blheli_s, consumer ESCs with open-source firmware. This project is toy-grade.
@@dmitryplatonov BLheli does not compare to this. This dude made a whole thing himself, and i imagine quite cheaply too once you rule out R&D costs. On the other hand, BLheli is still expensive compared to this, and you have to buy it from them, unlike this which you can solder at home. The blheli_s is around 17 dollars a piece, or around 60 bucks for a set of 4. For this, you can get pcbs from JLC for under 5 dollars for all four. The components are SMD, hence dirt cheap. I'd say just a few bucks to make a single ESC.
Wish i had better and much more expressive words than just say thank you for this amazing code and work you put on it, now finally i could finish my ebike project . I tried the code on my version of the three fase mosfet bridge and worked the same as you showed in this video, God bless you and saludos desde Guadalajara, Mexico!
great job friend! it has been waited for a long time, it will allow us to make more different projects, thanks for sharing such a wonderful project. I think V4 will be support absolute encoder for precise control for robotic applications (alternative for o drive :)
I was going to ask for some review of your kickstarter on the last video but I wasn't sure you were willing to disclose. Its great that you put it out so others can learn from that too. Nice project here too.
Since the microcontroller is using low current to drive high current, I believe the buck converter is not necessary. LDO can drive the digital IO while the battery supply will supply current to the motors and other high current connections
Love what you're doing, keep it up and would definitely support this. Would love to see reversing and taking a bit more space to have proper motor lead solder points would be on my wishlist.
Nice work as always. Some suggestions : A) In your kick Starter ESC i think you must include the option the user can upload his own code or maybe next versions of your code .. this is something that will make it more appealed to users. (most new ESC have the option to update their firmware via some tools) so you can include the pin holes to program the ESC with an external FTD1232 or similar B) An other option could be a second Board ESC with the use of an Arduino Pro mini (not for Flight applications) for Ebike, remote cars, boats etc projects i am thinking to build one to use it for my needs but as it is based in your project /schematic i think it would be better for you to make a commercial one
Dear Electronoobs, You should consider cleaning your PCB from flux, eg. with acetone. It will be more elegant and will make understanding circuits easier. Best regards
@@praveenwinrap7510 Need little modification on PCB side and Code side 1. Have to add Relay or MOSFETs units for dynamic braking. (Disconnect the power and short-circuit the terminal with a resistance). 2. Code wise just add a lines when pwm is zero and speed is observed initiate breaking. Or better have another idea without any modifications but need to test.
I have some ideas for improvements: 1. Switch the hot phase in complementary mode - lower conduction losses (the current will circulate through the low fet channel instead of the antiparallel diode). 2. Have the ground phase be constantly on - no need to switch the low fet. 3. Monitor the battery voltage, at low voltage stop the motor so you have enough juice to dead stick land. 4. Add current sensing to protect the motor, can also be used to improve the PWM scheme by closing the current loop - current = torque = power - current can be sensed at the fets source return (common shunt for all 3 fets). 5. You can then close the speed loop - reciever sets speed demand, speed loop commands the current (torque) loop - this way you can have variable load on the motor and constant rotation speed - not really needed for a RC plane ESC, but it's a learning experience ;-)
Hi, congratulations on the channel and the consistently high-quality content! I’ve been following you for a while and truly appreciate how you explain complex technical concepts in such an accessible way. I’m currently working on a project to develop an ESC for a brushless motor that uses a 23-bit encoder communicating via RS-485. The motor will need to follow the position I send it through the serial, using a 32-bit data input. I’ve already implemented the code to read the motor’s position in real-time, and I was wondering, based on your experience, if it’s possible to avoid using Hall sensors and manage the commutation directly based on the absolute position provided by the encoder. Thank you in advance for any advice or feedback, and keep up the great work!
I love your videos and I tried to make an ESC myself Surprisingly, I came up with a very similar design as yours but it didn't work. The thing was I didnt know hoe to use mosfets so I aligned them incorrectly. Now I am going back to the project and finish it.
the buck converter should be on a separate board and so should the microcontroller. this way everything is modular and smaller and easier to fit in your project with a more flexible form factor to fit it into tight places as needed.
but GREAT job overall and this is just my preference based on my projects use case but is not necessary and maybe not even best just for learning case like this board may be for. I am meaning more for use in actual projects
You should employ braking in your code if you're going to split the stick to run forward and reverse direction , changing commanded direction before the motor dissipates its inertia will stress the fets and possibly kill them.
Please reconsider your aim to release this on Kickstarter, there are many who have had their fingers burnt supporting through that platform including me, I would much prefer crowdfunding due to the reduced risk if the venture fails. But great projects and videos, keep it up. :>)
I have a "snap brick" robot controller I'll be releasing a video on soon (plz subscribe). What website specifically are you recommending for crowd funding? (I think kickstarter charges too much).
I'd support your kickstarter, i think adding hall sensor functionality would be a perfect idea to make your product a good option to anyone that is trying to make an Ebike - Scooter - ELongboard. And thus, sell more units.
The silk mask in the video shows V3, but the one you are selling and I bought - has V2 on it. Please explain. Also, I think we need a version that would allow us to use another - more readily available microcontroller in this day and age :-) Microcontroller you picked is famously unavailable atm. Thanks!
This projects looks cool, but the schematic you presented for sensing the BEMF will fry the microcontroller at voltages higher than 12ish volts. Did you add a divider to the neutral point too? Really like the new board btw, the old one had some power dissipation issues.
@@ELECTRONOOBS Yes but the VNP is approximately the supply voltage divided by two. I have seen bad schematics online which divide the three phases but not the VNP. Here is a link to an ideal setup: imgur.com/a/CskN30V. I think your ESC works because you take the neutral point after division, after looking at your schematic. You wouldn't need to denounce your comparator in the code so much if you took the VNP separately. This would allow for higher speeds!
Nice use of the analog comparator! With the release of the arduino nano every, it has the new ATMega4809, which features a faster ADC. do you think with the ATMega4809, an integrating trapezoidal control algorithm would be possible? I got such an algorithm to work with the STM32F446RE, sampling all three phases at 70kHz, asynchronously to the main control loop and PWM signals, and implemented filters in the resistor dividers. I'm sure it would still work at 50khz, but just not as well at 100k ERPM.
I don't get why you compare all the 3 phases with the BEMF floating phase...I don t get how the voltages on those wires will be in each moment.how can all the 3 voltages combined be less then 1 backemf voltage?
Hello. I don't understand the BEMF voltage dividers. In the schematic R22 and R16 using same value is 33k. R14 using 10k. But I see in your video using R22 1ohm, R16 33k and R14 12k. I don't understand that, that divide for 12v? I want calculation for bemf voltage dividers same like 24 or higher voltage
Is there any way to make one ESC to run several motors? I'd like to see a design that can control 4 or more motors at the same time from a central location instead of having 1 ESC per motor. This would save size and weight. Maybe even the bulk of the ESC being a central unit with tiny boards at each motor. Every gram makes a difference when making drones.
Hello. I would like to make an ESC with an stm32 microcontroller based on your Arduino project. However, I am having trouble detecting the zero crossing of the BEMF using a comparator. I would like to ask for your help. Is the virtual neutral of your circuit a continuous waveform? Or is it a waveform synchronized with the PWM?
Does anybody know how you'd control four motors like on a drone? You'd have four of these running on the same drone and then configure them to use the same signal (but in CW/CCW pairs). Or perhaps you'd need one esc for each pair and use each esc to control the CW or CCW rotations? Or perhaps a single esc and one set of wires to another circuit which would inverse the signal?
None... Most ESCs have an ATMega8A and are supported by SimonK... You could also flash this firmware with some tweaking (I don't see why you would want to do that)
Would be interesting to be able to control the motor at low RPM.. Then main board can read hall effect sensor or encoder and use your ESC to drive the motor.
Hi sir, i have a small doubt please help me. I am using your code but I am the input pwm value from pcint all over the place I have tried everything even I made my micros function but it didn't work please help me with this
I'm not particularly interested in FPV/RC stuff, but don't let that discourage you. I'm just one subscriber/viewer. However, I thought Kickstarter was dead. I know Mick over on the Mick Makes channel has mentioned how most people seemed to have moved to "Crowd Supply" instead. Apparently CS doesn't cause the end customer to be quite as vulnerable to the failures and frauds that Kickstarter and Indigogo have become known for. It's worth taking a look at that platform IMO. I also recommend watching and subscribing to Mick Makes if you haven't already. He does a lot of reviews of other people's hardware from all over the world along with developing his own. I have seen several RUclipsrs over the last year that have followed a similar, "mostly review hardware/occasionally release your own hardware" RUclips channel format. Mick does it well. He's got a great and under rated channel. This project looks interesting. If I were into this kind of thing, perhaps I would try to buy one. Lastly, I understand why you are not trying to add the USB CH340G stuff in this application, but have you seen the CH340E stuff that is being pushed on AliEx more now? It's a smaller TSSOP-10 package, but it looks like it doesn't require a crystal either. It's got the required UART + DTR pins. I just ordered a breakout board and 10 chips to try it. The cheapest chips I found were $0.32 each with a total order shipping price of $0.42 on AliEx. That's $0.74 in single order quantity, or $0.362 each in a quantity of 10. The newest Ardy Nano compatible stuff from China also has this chip. The CH340G will probably still be my go-to chip for hand soldering, but I've been playing with smaller layout designs and the CH340E looks like a great option for reducing the board space requirements of the CH340G and crystal. Thanks for the upload and good luck with the crowd funding campaign. -Jake
Its not about what u can buy for cheap it is about what he has achieved and code for such a simple thing is very complex now thing about what kind of code u would have to write if u want to make something similar to O-Drive
I never used the office but I've looked over the schematic and there are drivers and mosfets so seems quite like this one but the only difference would be the code you use. That's why this is open source so any make could get my code and change it and make improvements.... Keep up!
Hi, thanks to you for all your dedicated works. I actually can get my own projects working faster because of all your hints. I'm also in the process of designing a 144 VDC 6-phase inverter. I do have a question! Why use a voltage divider to read the bemf instead of shunt resistors connected to an high current shunt monitor chip ? Thanks
My brushless motor is going to its maximum speed without a rotor fixed to it but as soon as I fix a rotor to it, the motor restarts as soon as I reach 25% speed, what can be the problem? My Bldc motor is 1200kv a2212 and my esc is 30A.
Hey Electronoobs, I am making a 12s 65A ESC, can you explain how you determined the voltage dividers for the Zero-Crossing sensing? Does the sum of the voltages measured at the voltage divider need to be 5V? Or does the sum of the voltage drops at the divider not matter so long as it is not exceeding 5V (Being the ATMEGA 328p's max IO pin voltage). Anyway, great video thanks for further explanation on the Zero-Cross.
The divider output must be below 5V all the time. Otherwise it will saturate and also higher voltage might burn the analog input of the microcontroller
@@ELECTRONOOBS also how does the voltage drop across the floating "coil" change based on the voltage being supplied to the motor? is there a way to predict it?
Great project as always!!! I've built and I've been using your 7 channel RC system on a couple of RC vehicles for my boys and it's been working without a glitch. I'm really interested in this and as I'm building a quad and I'd love to try your design. Well done and keep creating!!!
Are you considering selling the board and the components as a kit? I'm not being cheeky or lazy, but with kids and full time job I'm a bit short of spare time... :-D Regards
Congratulations man one of the best diy ones out there it would be great if u would make a video about a STM32f4or7 based flight controller which will be compatible with betaflight
Will this size pcb work with larger motor like from a washing machine? How many separate electric motors can you connect at once? How would you know what the max your board can control? Would larger motor require more then 24volts
Hello, for the ESC v3 i found that the provided code size (Version 4.1) is within the memory limits of the ATmega168p. Since i have a few 168p spare parts in my lab, can i use that instead of the 328p ??
I’m curious. When you return your control back to zero/standby position it seems like the motor spins for a significant length of time before stopping. It this something in the code or is it something in the ESD itself that causes a long deceleration time?
Very well made, congrulations friend :) In my opinion you may want to change 1N4148 diodes with better shotky low voltage drop diodes. Just an opinion :)
Nice project, I have been lookiing for something like this and it seems very polished and thought out. Since it is an OpenSource project are you going to release the source code and pcb design files for it? I could certainly see paying for a completed/fully assembled device as it would be worth it. Definitely well done!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Not even GreatScott built a proper BEMF ESC😮. Well done bro
Thank you!
He got the RC filters backwards on the comparator inputs.
Did you test it? I found some errors.....
GreatScott is best solder men.😂😂😂😂
Don't want to sound like an asshole but GreatScott isn't all that great at electronics.
Some tips regarding the project:
1. You can build a jig and use pogo pins for mass programming of the modules
2. You could/should have used a bigger value for the dropper resistor on the LED. That amount of light the LED gives, is pretty much useless. You only want the LED to notify you that the circuit is running, not to light up the room. If you have the datasheet, you can use the U/I plot from there and calculate the resistor value.
3. You could theoretically limit the heating of the motor by limiting the windings to go to saturation. That means you should limit the PWM to a set threshold, based on some measurements. The idea behind this is that, drawing a I/L curve, the inductance will have an upward characteristic, but after some point, the inductance will go down, even if the current through the coil will rise. That's the point where the losses on the motor will start to get higher. To achieve this, the 328p will probably not be enough.. You could use a current shunt, measure the current and amplify the voltage drop, and then pass it through a comparator with a set threshold, which would trigger some interrupts. There is a big story behind this, and you can find a lot of resources online.
4. Since this would be a kickstarter project, I would suggest switching to Atmel Studio for better integration and you'll achieve thighter control over the microcontroller resources, and I assume that would mean that you'll get out of your comfort zone, but you'll master the "real" programming of microcontrollers. Arduino will limit you quite a lot in using the microcontrollers resources as it is supposed to do that automatically without you even reading the datasheet.
Overall, you did a great job with this project, and I hope that the kickstarter will be successful. I'm planning to do a similar project on my bachelor thesis, which will be next year :)
You really understand about the topic. I need an not expensive 500A ESC for a bike project. Do you think changing the mosfets and capacitors in a commercial esc I can achieve this ?
Fantastic design! Many have tried and only you have succeeded! Congratulations. The best project of the year!
Thank you so much
Waiting for this for a long time. Thank you very much!!!
I wish there were more people tech savvvy enough to understand how huge an accomplishment this is. Instead theyre off watching someone lick an icecream or arguing about bath water. I hate this planet
Funny. Those of us that are tech savvy are usually introverts that don't get out much, and are less likely to be seen in public.
....like right now... this is my procrastination break with a half finished KiCAD board layout on a laptop in front of me. Commenting on and replying to people from the vids I watched earlier with my morning coffee is my version of "getting out / entertainment."
Just don't hang out with the sheeple that lick the cones and dispute the bath waters :-)
The internet is a wonderful place to connect people that have no immediate contacts to other "tech savvy" people IRL.
I live in one of the most populous places in the world, Los Angeles California. There's SpaceX, Boeing, NASA, and world class universities within 100 kilometers of me, and yet I live in a dead zone with no one (I know) around me that has any depth. They all just stare at idiot boxes all day. So I find people on the internet in places like YT, and try to get them to engage.
If you're having trouble finding stuff, click my name, go to the "Channels" tab and start exploring. Most people, like myself that really engage in comments sections (aka 'talk too much') are looking to build community, are very active on YT, and leave our account completely public. My subscriptions, likes list, and playlist references to other people's stuff are all public. I have nothing to gain in sharing this. I'm subscribed to well over 1k channels, have a maximum sized "likes" list with 5k uploads on it, and have a large number of playlists on everything electronics based that I'm interested in. If you can make it through those lists without being overwhelmed, you're a much smarter person than me.
There are thousands of people here just like you. Most of us probably feel similarly about the state of our immediate surroundings IRL, and yet often we neglect to realize or appreciate we are all here together right now :-)
-Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics , you sound interesting. Just added you. Check out my channel as well.
@@UpcycleElectronics I can confirm that, most of the smart people are introverts.
I for example, wouldn't want to come off as a narcistic, but i'm a relatively smart dude that does dumb shit once in a while.
I have tested my IQ, it is
~175 apparently, i was a member of Mensa until they became too greedy and started asking 120€ per month to continue being a member.
I started learning electronics when i was a kid, since i grew up way too poor to own fancy toys and such, so my grandfather ( former professor on the college of applied science) would give me a multimeter, set it on the continuity and i'd go chasing things around to check if they are conductive.
That was when i was ~5 years old.
After i grew up a bit, i had started to repair toys that we got second hand. Well, i mostly took them apart and attached a loose wire with bubble gum lol.
Now, i'm about to finish my college and to get master's degree in mechatronics engineering.
I'm a goddamn introvert, i don't have a girlfriend and only have a few friends.
I think this is same for most highly intelligent people on the world.
Also, your channel is pure awesomness. I'm working on a Arduino Nano based bluetooth multimeter project, that should be small enough to fit in your hand and you should able to get readings on your phone.
Mostly doing it as a cheap alternative for Mooshimeter, which is awesome for students but is quite pricy.
What's the accomplishment there? There is VESC, high-end open source ESC. There is Blheli_s, consumer ESCs with open-source firmware. This project is toy-grade.
@@dmitryplatonov BLheli does not compare to this.
This dude made a whole thing himself, and i imagine quite cheaply too once you rule out R&D costs.
On the other hand, BLheli is still expensive compared to this, and you have to buy it from them, unlike this which you can solder at home.
The blheli_s is around 17 dollars a piece, or around 60 bucks for a set of 4.
For this, you can get pcbs from JLC for under 5 dollars for all four.
The components are SMD, hence dirt cheap.
I'd say just a few bucks to make a single ESC.
Wish i had better and much more expressive words than just say thank you for this amazing code and work you put on it, now finally i could finish my ebike project . I tried the code on my version of the three fase mosfet bridge and worked the same as you showed in this video, God bless you and saludos desde Guadalajara, Mexico!
So gald to hear that!
Nice idea using the motor as a speaker, I would never have thought of that.
I'm learning industrial 3 phase and plcs' s. Quadcopter motor control has allowed me to see what the numbers and formulas do. Your board is awesome..
great job friend!
it has been waited for a long time,
it will allow us to make more different projects,
thanks for sharing such a wonderful project.
I think V4 will be support absolute encoder for precise control for robotic applications (alternative for o drive :)
I was going to ask for some review of your kickstarter on the last video but I wasn't sure you were willing to disclose. Its great that you put it out so others can learn from that too. Nice project here too.
Since the microcontroller is using low current to drive high current, I believe the buck converter is not necessary. LDO can drive the digital IO while the battery supply will supply current to the motors and other high current connections
Where is kickstarter link?
Make some tour for best price/power mosfets from 30A and up to handling 150-200A and above
Yes please! ♥️🥰
yeah 5kw so we can put these in our cars.
I want to buy this. I can learn so much from it. Thank you for the video.
You are the best because you open the door of opportunities.
Love what you're doing, keep it up and would definitely support this. Would love to see reversing and taking a bit more space to have proper motor lead solder points would be on my wishlist.
¡ Gracias por compartir !, Saludos desde México.
Nice work as always. Some suggestions :
A) In your kick Starter ESC i think you must include the option the user can upload his own code or maybe next versions of your code ..
this is something that will make it more appealed to users. (most new ESC have the option to update their firmware via some tools)
so you can include the pin holes to program the ESC with an external FTD1232 or similar
B) An other option could be a second Board ESC with the use of an Arduino Pro mini (not for Flight applications) for Ebike, remote cars, boats etc projects
i am thinking to build one to use it for my needs but as it is based in your project /schematic i think it would be better for you to make a commercial one
The board has both UART and ISP pins for programming
Great Job bro.. You are a professional Teacher for me. Love u bro.
where can download pcb v3,thanks
you can also send it to other youtubers for review if thats a kickstarter
Wow that's very impressive👏👍 good luck with kickstarter.
Dear Electronoobs,
You should consider cleaning your PCB from flux, eg. with acetone. It will be more elegant and will make understanding circuits easier.
Best regards
Sorry, i've done that after I've recorded the video... I'll be more careful next time
Acetone might remove the solder mask
What a legend. Excellent video. Thank you so much.
Hi.can sudden Braking is possible with BLDC Motor?using your board??
Probably Not.
Thanks@@GM_handle22 then how can i achieve that??any suggestions??
@@praveenwinrap7510 Need little modification on PCB side and Code side
1. Have to add Relay or MOSFETs units for dynamic braking. (Disconnect the power and short-circuit the terminal with a resistance).
2. Code wise just add a lines when pwm is zero and speed is observed initiate breaking.
Or better have another idea without any modifications but need to test.
I have some ideas for improvements:
1. Switch the hot phase in complementary mode - lower conduction losses (the current will circulate through the low fet channel instead of the antiparallel diode).
2. Have the ground phase be constantly on - no need to switch the low fet.
3. Monitor the battery voltage, at low voltage stop the motor so you have enough juice to dead stick land.
4. Add current sensing to protect the motor, can also be used to improve the PWM scheme by closing the current loop - current = torque = power - current can be sensed at the fets source return (common shunt for all 3 fets).
5. You can then close the speed loop - reciever sets speed demand, speed loop commands the current (torque) loop - this way you can have variable load on the motor and constant rotation speed - not really needed for a RC plane ESC, but it's a learning experience ;-)
Very impressed, particularly as the erpm at 20,000rpm with that outrunner must be pretty high! Great job.
Was waiting for it
Hi, congratulations on the channel and the consistently high-quality content! I’ve been following you for a while and truly appreciate how you explain complex technical concepts in such an accessible way.
I’m currently working on a project to develop an ESC for a brushless motor that uses a 23-bit encoder communicating via RS-485. The motor will need to follow the position I send it through the serial, using a 32-bit data input. I’ve already implemented the code to read the motor’s position in real-time, and I was wondering, based on your experience, if it’s possible to avoid using Hall sensors and manage the commutation directly based on the absolute position provided by the encoder.
Thank you in advance for any advice or feedback, and keep up the great work!
Thats so awesome . I was to make one and came across your beautiful work! Love from India :-)
Very nice, congrats! Any chance there will be inputs for encoder feedback??? If so, i would be sold!
Very impressive project, beautifully done.
I love your videos and I tried to make an ESC myself
Surprisingly, I came up with a very similar design as yours but it didn't work. The thing was I didnt know hoe to use mosfets so I aligned them incorrectly. Now I am going back to the project and finish it.
Happy to hear that. Good luck!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Thank you!!! and hope your kick starter is successful!
the buck converter should be on a separate board and so should the microcontroller. this way everything is modular and smaller and easier to fit in your project with a more flexible form factor to fit it into tight places as needed.
but GREAT job overall and this is just my preference based on my projects use case but is not necessary and maybe not even best just for learning case like this board may be for. I am meaning more for use in actual projects
I would love for you to offer a kit version of this on kickstarter for those masochists that like SMD soldering :P
You should employ braking in your code if you're going to split the stick to run forward and reverse direction , changing commanded direction before the motor dissipates its inertia will stress the fets and possibly kill them.
Fantastic work, dude! Really great project!!! 😃
adding a zener diode to the clamp the voltage on the BEMF pins would allow more sensitivity, all you care about is the zero crossing, nothing else...
Very well done project and video, though you don’t explain the purpose of the banana seen through 1:28. 🙂
Yeah i am interested in buying this awesome esc and love you electronoobs 😙😙😙
Cool project. I would like to make some changes to the PCB (remove the USB). Are the Eagle, Kicad, Diptrace or Easyeda files available?
Please teach how to build our own flight controler for drone
Please reconsider your aim to release this on Kickstarter, there are many who have had their fingers burnt supporting through that platform including me, I would much prefer crowdfunding due to the reduced risk if the venture fails. But great projects and videos, keep it up. :>)
I'll look over that. Thanks!
I have a "snap brick" robot controller I'll be releasing a video on soon (plz subscribe). What website specifically are you recommending for crowd funding? (I think kickstarter charges too much).
Nice job Electronoobs! Did you implement some kind of current sensing / current chopping? Or do you just put full power through the coils?
A huge accomplishment ..!!!
Respect..🙏
Thanks!
Can you make a video on how transistor work as a switch and amplifier in different mode.plz
..
how many amps did the buck converter produce ? and what is the frequency of the pwm? is it 50Hz ?
I'd support your kickstarter, i think adding hall sensor functionality would be a perfect idea to make your product a good option to anyone that is trying to make an Ebike - Scooter - ELongboard. And thus, sell more units.
Can you please put 4 of them on a drone and fly it? It would be great. Also great work with the ESC.
The silk mask in the video shows V3, but the one you are selling and I bought - has V2 on it. Please explain.
Also, I think we need a version that would allow us to use another - more readily available microcontroller in this day and age :-) Microcontroller you picked is famously unavailable atm. Thanks!
I am sharing this video to all my friends😃😃😃😃😃
This projects looks cool, but the schematic you presented for sensing the BEMF will fry the microcontroller at voltages higher than 12ish volts. Did you add a divider to the neutral point too? Really like the new board btw, the old one had some power dissipation issues.
Hi. What do you mean? The sensing dividers are of 10K with 33K and that will lower the voltage to around 2.7V.
@@ELECTRONOOBS Yes but the VNP is approximately the supply voltage divided by two. I have seen bad schematics online which divide the three phases but not the VNP. Here is a link to an ideal setup: imgur.com/a/CskN30V. I think your ESC works because you take the neutral point after division, after looking at your schematic. You wouldn't need to denounce your comparator in the code so much if you took the VNP separately. This would allow for higher speeds!
Nice use of the analog comparator! With the release of the arduino nano every, it has the new ATMega4809, which features a faster ADC. do you think with the ATMega4809, an integrating trapezoidal control algorithm would be possible?
I got such an algorithm to work with the STM32F446RE, sampling all three phases at 70kHz, asynchronously to the main control loop and PWM signals, and implemented filters in the resistor dividers. I'm sure it would still work at 50khz, but just not as well at 100k ERPM.
I was just gonna say that... I have plans to use that single analog comparator as a current sensor... Just have to touch up on my coding
I don't get why you compare all the 3 phases with the BEMF floating phase...I don t get how the voltages on those wires will be in each moment.how can all the 3 voltages combined be less then 1 backemf voltage?
Any chance to add a sensor input for low speed fine control (when the back emf is not effective)?
What must be the value of the voltage devider and what components must be change to work on 90v.?Except transistors offcourse?
I always enjoy your work, bravo is all I can say!!!!!!!
it would be cool if you made a vesc for a longboard. Is there such a project in the plans?
what is the buck converter 5V IC?thanks
moon ford step-down dc-dc converter
Good luck with the pick and place. They take quite sometime to setup let alone use!
Hope for V4 you add some protect motor like over current
Hello. I don't understand the BEMF voltage dividers. In the schematic R22 and R16 using same value is 33k. R14 using 10k. But I see in your video using R22 1ohm, R16 33k and R14 12k. I don't understand that, that divide for 12v? I want calculation for bemf voltage dividers same like 24 or higher voltage
Is there any way to make one ESC to run several motors? I'd like to see a design that can control 4 or more motors at the same time from a central location instead of having 1 ESC per motor. This would save size and weight. Maybe even the bulk of the ESC being a central unit with tiny boards at each motor. Every gram makes a difference when making drones.
Hello. I would like to make an ESC with an stm32 microcontroller based on your Arduino project. However, I am having trouble detecting the zero crossing of the BEMF using a comparator. I would like to ask for your help. Is the virtual neutral of your circuit a continuous waveform? Or is it a waveform synchronized with the PWM?
i want to use it for RC car crawler,,,,,can you add brake to the esc?
It is possible build this project without the oscilator crystal? In this case, use the internal 8 MHz oscilator of the 328P.
Does anybody know how you'd control four motors like on a drone? You'd have four of these running on the same drone and then configure them to use the same signal (but in CW/CCW pairs). Or perhaps you'd need one esc for each pair and use each esc to control the CW or CCW rotations? Or perhaps a single esc and one set of wires to another circuit which would inverse the signal?
you will need different one for each motor as it should operate isolated from each others based on the gero inputs
Nice board. For Kickstarter: What are the advantages over a commercial ESC?
I guess that its open source and you can adapt components and code to your needs?
None... Most ESCs have an ATMega8A and are supported by SimonK... You could also flash this firmware with some tweaking (I don't see why you would want to do that)
Would be interesting to be able to control the motor at low RPM.. Then main board can read hall effect sensor or encoder and use your ESC to drive the motor.
Cool controller. Is it possible to power it up and adapt it for an electric skateboard and make a smooth braking function with a stick?
Absolutely gorgeous BLDC! May I add hte request to add mounting holes, please?
Hi sir, i have a small doubt please help me. I am using your code but I am the input pwm value from pcint all over the place I have tried everything even I made my micros function but it didn't work please help me with this
I'm not particularly interested in FPV/RC stuff, but don't let that discourage you. I'm just one subscriber/viewer.
However, I thought Kickstarter was dead. I know Mick over on the Mick Makes channel has mentioned how most people seemed to have moved to "Crowd Supply" instead. Apparently CS doesn't cause the end customer to be quite as vulnerable to the failures and frauds that Kickstarter and Indigogo have become known for. It's worth taking a look at that platform IMO.
I also recommend watching and subscribing to Mick Makes if you haven't already. He does a lot of reviews of other people's hardware from all over the world along with developing his own. I have seen several RUclipsrs over the last year that have followed a similar, "mostly review hardware/occasionally release your own hardware" RUclips channel format. Mick does it well. He's got a great and under rated channel.
This project looks interesting. If I were into this kind of thing, perhaps I would try to buy one.
Lastly, I understand why you are not trying to add the USB CH340G stuff in this application, but have you seen the CH340E stuff that is being pushed on AliEx more now? It's a smaller TSSOP-10 package, but it looks like it doesn't require a crystal either. It's got the required UART + DTR pins. I just ordered a breakout board and 10 chips to try it. The cheapest chips I found were $0.32 each with a total order shipping price of $0.42 on AliEx. That's $0.74 in single order quantity, or $0.362 each in a quantity of 10.
The newest Ardy Nano compatible stuff from China also has this chip.
The CH340G will probably still be my go-to chip for hand soldering, but I've been playing with smaller layout designs and the CH340E looks like a great option for reducing the board space requirements of the CH340G and crystal.
Thanks for the upload and good luck with the crowd funding campaign.
-Jake
Thank you very much for all your tips. I'll consider all of this. Thanks again!
I don't have ir2101 driver's. How to use transistors please help.
An excellent Explain & video ,Thank you for sharing your knowledge . Thanks.
Please Please Please make next ESC something like a mini affordable version of O-Drive. As kind of ESCs you made are already available cheaply.
Its not about what u can buy for cheap it is about what he has achieved and code for such a simple thing is very complex now thing about what kind of code u would have to write if u want to make something similar to O-Drive
I never used the office but I've looked over the schematic and there are drivers and mosfets so seems quite like this one but the only difference would be the code you use. That's why this is open source so any make could get my code and change it and make improvements.... Keep up!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Thank you for the reply, O-Drive implements the use of Field Oriented Control, do you plan to explain or implement FOC in future?
@@nazirahmadshah367 Exactly! I wasn't demeaning this project but suggesting future projects and direction this ESC video series could go.
@@ELECTRONOOBS you can decrease the pcb size significantly if u use qfn packages of the MOSFETs and the microcontroller
your video very great. Can you make a video about smooth startup like the "HW30A esc" or "Hobbywing esc"
Hi, thanks to you for all your dedicated works. I actually can get my own projects working faster because of all your hints. I'm also in the process of designing a 144 VDC 6-phase inverter. I do have a question! Why use a voltage divider to read the bemf instead of shunt resistors connected to an high current shunt monitor chip ? Thanks
can you explain to me how you calculated the voltage dividers?
My brushless motor is going to its maximum speed without a rotor fixed to it but as soon as I fix a rotor to it, the motor restarts as soon as I reach 25% speed, what can be the problem? My Bldc motor is 1200kv a2212 and my esc is 30A.
Thank you . This is a nice project for my mini drone
Hey Electronoobs, I am making a 12s 65A ESC, can you explain how you determined the voltage dividers for the Zero-Crossing sensing? Does the sum of the voltages measured at the voltage divider need to be 5V? Or does the sum of the voltage drops at the divider not matter so long as it is not exceeding 5V (Being the ATMEGA 328p's max IO pin voltage). Anyway, great video thanks for further explanation on the Zero-Cross.
The divider output must be below 5V all the time. Otherwise it will saturate and also higher voltage might burn the analog input of the microcontroller
@@ELECTRONOOBS just saw this, thanks.
@@ELECTRONOOBS also how does the voltage drop across the floating "coil" change based on the voltage being supplied to the motor? is there a way to predict it?
Bro is it possibel to add parallel mosfets to a 30amp esc to incerase ampere rating
This is great work congratulation my friend !!
Have you considered adding an engine brake feature ?
Great project as always!!! I've built and I've been using your 7 channel RC system on a couple of RC vehicles for my boys and it's been working without a glitch. I'm really interested in this and as I'm building a quad and I'd love to try your design. Well done and keep creating!!!
Glad to hear this! Feel free to share your projects on electronoobs.io keep up!
Are you considering selling the board and the components as a kit? I'm not being cheeky or lazy, but with kids and full time job I'm a bit short of spare time... :-D Regards
Plz design with high voltage and high amperage...
Im highly interested, do you sell these or are the files available where I could have them made? I never did this before but im williing to try.
Congratulations man one of the best diy ones out there it would be great if u would make a video about a STM32f4or7 based flight controller which will be compatible with betaflight
Yeah i also want a video on this.
Will this size pcb work with larger motor like from a washing machine? How many separate electric motors can you connect at once? How would you know what the max your board can control? Would larger motor require more then 24volts
hey I have seen a lot of your videos on this, is this esc bidirectional??
i have open esc i want to use that for forward and reverse but i dunno how could you help me ?
Hello, for the ESC v3 i found that the provided code size (Version 4.1) is within the memory limits of the ATmega168p. Since i have a few 168p spare parts in my lab, can i use that instead of the 328p ??
Voy a esperar la versión en español del video porque no entendí nada pero está buenísimo!!!
I’m curious. When you return your control back to zero/standby position it seems like the motor spins for a significant length of time before stopping. It this something in the code or is it something in the ESD itself that causes a long deceleration time?
You are just brilliant man !!!
can i operate 12kw bldc motor by this process?
Why don't you go for manufacturing Rc hobby parts?
Could you make it flash via the servo connector like many commercial escs?
are the kikad / eagle files available for this board? I want to try etching it myself
Very well made, congrulations friend :) In my opinion you may want to change 1N4148 diodes with better shotky low voltage drop diodes. Just an opinion :)
Nice project, I have been lookiing for something like this and it seems very polished and thought out. Since it is an OpenSource project are you going to release the source code and pcb design files for it? I could certainly see paying for a completed/fully assembled device as it would be worth it. Definitely well done!