Make your own Sensored ESC || Electric Bike Conversion (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
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More project information (schematic, code, pictures,...) on Instructables: www.instructab...
You can get a e-bike conversion kit here: (affiliate links)
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Parts list (incomplete, see Instructables for more, affiliate links):
Aliexpress:
1x Arduino Nano: s.click.aliexp...
1x 10k Potentiometer: s.click.aliexp...
1x 74HC14 Hex Inverter Schmitt Trigger: s.click.aliexp...
3x TC4427 MOSFET Driver: s.click.aliexp...
3x IRF5305 P-Channel MOSFET: s.click.aliexp...
3x IRFZ44N N-Channel MOSFET: s.click.aliexp...
6x MUR460 Diode: s.click.aliexp...
1x LM7805 5V Regulator: s.click.aliexp...
1x LM7815 15V Regulator: s.click.aliexp...
Ebay:
1x Arduino Nano: rover.ebay.com/...
1x 10k Potentiometer: rover.ebay.com/...
1x 74HC14 Hex Inverter Schmitt Trigger: rover.ebay.com/...
3x TC4427 MOSFET Driver: rover.ebay.com/...
3x IRF5305 P-Channel MOSFET: rover.ebay.com/...
3x IRFZ44N N-Channel MOSFET: rover.ebay.com/...
6x MUR460 Diode: rover.ebay.com/...
1x LM7805 5V Regulator: rover.ebay.com/...
1x LM7815 15V Regulator: rover.ebay.com/...
In this video I will show you how a sensored BLDC Motor from an electric bike works and how we can create our own sensored ESC in order to let it rotate.
Thanks to JLCPCB for sponsoring this video
Visit jlcpcb.com to get professional PCBs for low prices
Music:
2011 Lookalike by Bartlebeats
Killing Time, Kevin MacLeod
(incompetech.com)
What a great project. I love how your earlier videos are now making it easier for me to follow your block diagram with a a minimum of explanation. Normally I'd think - why an inverting Schmidt Trigger? But now I see oh the P channels can be driven with it and no further explanation. Thanks for such great content.
Should you ever want to use the full potential of such a motor, I'd definitely recommend torque-arms! I built something similar with a VESC and the steel of my bike was deformed rather drastically (after about one month of driving around).
Please add regenerative braking too, it would be extremely interesting to see that implemented. Since I'm already asking, some current shunts for power measurements would be a nice touch too ;)
Manuauto another idea is recycle a Fisher and Paykel washer motor.
It already has regenerative braking, if the motor is running at say 20% max speed and you feed 10% duty cycle, current will backfeed into the supply because of the inductance of the motor windings.
I appreciate that you'll probably never see this comment - however I just wanted to thank you for this video and all your other videos. I'm in great awe of your electrical abilities as well as your language skills. Keep it up!
I am sitting here like... try a 48V power supply maybe? :D
Very nice job as always. Fella RUclipsr here, working on same project. Already have a few prototypes. How much power will draw that huge motor? Can't wait to see second video where I guess you'll test the bike around using your ESC.
Keep up good work!
Well, I will probably not use my own ESC for the second part of the video series. But I think a test run with it will follow.
@electroboobs I love your channel too!
Hi Andrei!, from my own project, those hub motors usually consume about 16-20Amps of current at initial start, then when the speed rises, it drops to around 10Amps
You've been of great help regarding quad-0copter construction.
northshorepx electroboobs lol
As an avid eBike cyclist, I really enjoyed your video!
Just so you know, you can remove the disc from your old wheel and use it with the eBike hub if your alignment is correct. The six hex screws on the side of the motor should align with the holes on the disc rotor from your stock bike wheel.
This project is really interesting to me, since I play with RC rock crawlers (that use brushless sensored motors) and eBikes (also use sensored motor). Keep up the great work!
Wooow who else never saw that awesome cycle before ? Awesome great Scott. Cycling itself is ecofriendly and this awesome project made it even awesome.
The whisper... And I love your Videos. Great work Great Scott. I'm sure you get that way too much. I appreciate your thorough explanations and "rebuilding the wheel" approach to help yourself and others understand.
I gotta say man, your solder joints are top notch!!!
I have a feeling this is why you've been experimenting with building 18650 packs recently...
Possible...
GreatScott! I was just wondering if you will be comparing the new raspberry pi 3b+ with another board???
+Logan, probably pointless RPi 3B+ is behind many existing boards in regard of tech features but it has great software support and community
My week wont start till i get a new GreatScott video. Nice as always
0:05 Yes, my region is *burning hot* since April.
1:01 long intro *world record?!*
1:46 long intro ends! *Lets get started!!*
7:56 Duper Awesome!!!!
My favourite electronics diy RUclipsr!! Scott i learned so much from you, keep up good work brother.
Your english is getting even better when ever you make a video keep up the good work hope you get a 1Million Subscribers 👍👍👍
Hey Scott, I think I found an error in your code and a reason why the motor wouldn't spin very fast. In your switch cases I think you have your ports D and B backwards for case 3, 4, and 5. If you look at the direction (DDRD) registers in setup() you are manipulating registers that you haven't declared as output, which also happens to be exactly flipped between D and B. I think the only thing you'll need to do is flip them back.
Another reason the wheel won't spin quickly is because you only had it hooked to 15 volts. From the looks of it you'll need at least 36.
Holy shit, i dont understand a thing what he talks about but everything he says sounds just to confident and good
Morgen in der Bild:
Student fährt mit Fahrrad auf die Autobahn!
This is why I use Brushed DC. Simple PWM and no extensive electronics. May be less efficient, true but it's much easier to repair (both motor and controller) and cheaper.May jump BLDC once I get some funds and gain experience with current Brushed-DC setup.
GreatScott, your driver has one serious problem - if you only use inverters to switch between the FETs, there is no dead time. The transistors don't turn off instantaneously, so you are going to have very nasty current spikes (shoot-through) because for a short moment both transistors are on, causing a short circuit across the power rails. That's bad both because it will cause the FETs to get hot (or even blow them up), because you are generating a ton of EMI with it and also because it wastes energy, which is important if you want to run this from a battery on a bike.
That's why proper FET drivers for half bridges have an option to set dead time. Many microcontrollers designed for driving motors/bridges have an option to generate programmable dead time too. If you are using an Arduino (ATMega328 and similar), you will have to generate this dead time in software by inserting a delay between switching one FET off and the other from the pair on. You will pretty much never see a simple inverter used in this kind of application.
Getting an e-bike is on my to do list, so this is going to be helpful for me.
your perf board skills are on point, nice
Thanks
Hope you get it working! I bought a 1.5kw version and they are loads of fun!
I would recommend though if you get a motor larger than 1kw that you get a sturdy bike like a Mountain bike or a fat bike. City bikes simply just won't do.
Was just about to build one too!! Now you started a series! Yess!!
Again you deliver a video about something I was researching about. Great job! I'll be working on this too in some months hopefully.
why would anyone dislike a project video like this?
BE CAREFUL!! that front fork looks like an aluminum one to me. You should NEVER use a hub motor with aluminum forks. I learned this the hard way. My fork failed and caused me to have a severe accident that landed me in the hospital for two days, suffering a concussion, severe abrasions to my face and shoulder, as well as a lacerated liver. On my new bike I have used a steel fork and welded on reinforcements on the front and back to make darn sure that it does not fail again. These things are very dangerous when not used correctly, as I learned.
Thanks for the tip!
If using aluminum forks then you can always use a torque arm to absorb the load.
It depends massively on the power of the motor as well as how much metal is in the dropout area. I would highly advise against going with motors with a power output greater than 500 watts if you have an Al fork unless you have the ability to fit some decent quality torque arms to the bile to prevent fatigue. Although even with a 250w geared motor I would ensure you use a torque arm wherever possible. Especially if you have thin Alu dropouts...
My bike has done over 6000 miles since I went with a BLDC kit using a 450w controller on a geared hub motor just for reference. It's done a fantastic job so far of getting me from A to B only needing the wheel off for basic maintenance (tube changes for example). and each time I've checked to ensure there was no bending or cracking, and so far, there hasn't been any. That said, the dropouts on my forks are surprisingly beefy!!
Yep. He's running 1000w motor. Mine run 25 to 30mph, even hitting up to 35mph. You do not want to have a catastrophic failure at those speeds.
I thought about making my own pedilac and powering it mainly with solar panels. Just think about it: when your battery runs dry you just chillex on a green lawn, unfold your solar panel, eat, drink, chill and then after an hour you have power again.
or even mount the solarpanel in a way that it charges the bike all the time. at least the math somehow adds up: a foldable 80W panel should be small enough, but provide enough power even on cloudy days.
I have no idea wtf any of this is, but I keep watching your videos because I feel like I am learning something, even if its just a little bit lol
Great Scott and electronoobs are going hand in hand. Great keep it up👍
Omg. You have videos for everything
Great videos! Now the series is complete it'd be pretty helpful to have links to part 2 and 3 in the description here.
Finally After a Long Time New Series Like electric Skateboard TY GREAT :)
A couple years ago, my parents had a motorized bike that the base was a cooler so it was a motorized cooler to hold drinks and stiff. It ended up breaking(which was probably a simple fix) and they sold it at a sale for $50. Sadly I wish we still had it because I love to work on that stuff and I would have had a great time with it.
Dear GreatScott.
In my opinion you use too much close up shots in your videos. Its kinda hard to follow if you have not enough overview. Thanks
What kind of king you are GreatScott. :)
You great can create your own circuit i admire you job
Heads up if you haven't looked into it already. The front wheel electric motors will often turn inside the front fork either cracking it or rounding out the section and subsequently winding up all the wire and possibly losing the wheel.
been there done that lol
You might need torque arms !! Otherwise the axle will spin in your dropouts. Also the speed co troller that comes with the kit has a low voltage cutoff to protect a battery! Awesome build :)
Solar generator is what we should all aspire to. Seen it on you tube
Very cool, I'm working on a PIC based one, it is very time consuming but also a lot of fun!
Hi, nice video, I recommend you to use the irfs7530 mosfet for this kind is currents. See the Vesc project of Benjamin Vedder, it can be very useful for your esc.
Hello from Salamanca (Spain)
How about IRF3710. will it work with it?
great tip on mosfet . thanks
I am so happy that you keep uploading, thank you! Have fun with your bike ;)
great video, tanks for explaining the hall effect sensor in a good practical way, keep up the great work.
It's amazing. I always enjoy watching your videos.
This some tony stark tech right there zer good
Love seeing a Geodreieck in action :D
I built one of these with a gas two stroke motor that drove the rear wheel, and an electric wheel for the front. It was two wheel drive. Electric gas human power hybrid. I took apart the twist for the electric kit throttle and figured out how to make it activate the motor at %100 power with just a switch, that way i could stuff that switch into a brake lever, and wire the cable for the carburator onto that lever. So one lever would drive both the gas and electric motor at the same time. I also had two switches next to that lever. One of them was the kill switch for the gas, the other was the kill switch for the electric. So i could change between front and rear wheel drive, both, and or human power. But then i just bought a motorcycle and stuffed that Frankenstein thig in a storage unit.
This is great! I've been thinking about getting a bike and converting it to an electric bike for commuting to and from work once it gets into the warmer months.
Great videos you are like Linux user find the solution of problems by yourself
I like your channel.
Greetings from Brazil.
The best conversion is the Tongsheng Or Bafang BBS02/ HD. Mid drive has the controller inside and looks much better on a bike. Yo also keep both original wheels that are most of the times better than the one that comes with the motor.
You can also use your rear gears to get a more efficient ride.
The screen on those mid drive motors are nicer too
An awesome project to get inspired thank you great scott sir for inspiring me you are my teacher i regard as like that
Waiting anxiously for the second video. I hope you find out why it is to slow. Thanks
Hi great Scott! This was a great video, you are a genius! There is one thing I really want to point out to you for your own good. I have made many ebikes, I purchased a hub motor for the front just like you. When I put it on my bike the hub motor the second I put power to it on the ground the mounting taps broke on the forks. I don’t know what it is but the magnesium alloy is very brittle to the motors torque. I really hope you see this because I have broken 3 forks like that and had to get steel ones. I think it’s a huge safety hazard and don’t want it to happen to you!!!
Once again, excellent work. Love the level of detail!
I just love your creativity
Best project. I just love your videos. I am too electronic enthusiast. Keep it up
Really well done....a Project for the future you could build youre own racing drone
Hi Scott, another thing I would like to see. Could you make some deep approach showing the relationship between number of poles of stator and rotor. Where to place the magnets and when to commute phases. I don't see, for example, a motor with same number of poles in stator and rotor. Thanks a million
You better finish this project!
I am glad the speed controller you bought didn't work, otherwise we probably would have this video.
Great video, but attention: There have been some bad accidents with these kits, because the front wheel isn't designed to take the pulling force and can break off mid-riding!
That's weird, must be some cheap/really bad bikes. I have one of my bikes powered by a 3.5 HP (2.6 kW) chainsaw engine, it can do burn outs and smoke tires too fast for me to afford except occasionally. The bikes I've used were already super cheap (one of them cost $5 at a thrift store).
That's not the only front wheel drive bike, the other was powered by a much more mundane grass trimmer. Its top speed is only 28 mph for legal reasons (legal for most states in the US without insurance or licence), and I took it off road jumping terraces in fields and some small natural ramps my cousins and I usually jump quad bikes on. Never had an issue with the bikes/frames/tires handling it. The big difference is my power is not delivered through the spokes (pulley is another bike rim welded to the normal wheel rim, or riveted together for alloy wheels).
I think even my Binachi road race bike would be fine with electric (front fork is carbon fiber and kevlar hybrid weave), but I could see maybe a defective knock off carbon fork snapping (they can already do that on some potholes in the road, if they are made bad).
hey i want to know more about that, could you link something please
FPV Kubbur Sorry, too many people would copy my design without giving any design fee. I've put in hundreds of hours designing and hundreds more testing (also materials, I broke a couple engine shafts so the design has been updated, I test these to the limits and beyond).
Too many people would just steal my design and hard work. That's why I don't post videos of them, some copy cat would feel entitled.
Jake Garrett no I meant the breaking off the front wheel
FPV Kubbur Oh yeah, that would be a fun compilation. I imagine most failures would be from uneven spoke tension or way too loose spokes. My cousin drives the back wheels with a 212cc engine that can do wheelies at an 800 rpm idle. He has managed to brake some stuff, but those were due to bad design for the most part. One of those was spoke failure, but he was drag racing it against me and that put a rediculous strain on the spokes...
I doubt the forks would break, after all they need to withstand impact and the brakes (which are enourmous loads, probably in the 4 kW range). I know my disk brakes are mounted on a pathetic quality wheel (thought the rims might just snap while tensioning spokes...).
I don't get the problem with just getting 48v worth of batteries...
Awesome!I love your project and likes to watch in the next few of upload
you could modify the controller to work on lower voltges by dding resistor on the voltge divider on the input to the dc
At first I read '' how to make your own censored esc'' 😂😂
But as always great video!
Hi, first of all, i whould like to say congratulations! Your channel is amazing and helpfull a lot on my projects. What about to create a serie, in which you analyze the projects of the followers, giving suggestions and tips to improve them?
Very Nice video GreatScott!
I was looking forward to when you would make the Sensord version of the ESC Controller :)
If your looking into a more better version and faster speed, I have created my own design for our competition at Shell Eco Marathon Asia 2018. Would be glad to share it with you
Can you share it with me?
Really awesome work, man! Really nice! 😀
Can't wait for the next part!
I'm jealous I still have snow outside
Useless Duck Company I'm Jealous, It never snows here 😧
same
spesialy if you life in asia (south east asian)
felix gaming vlog Yeah. India
lol its snowing right now in spring XD
you should invest in fake snow XD
I'm no e-bike expert but I've read that it's not the best idea to replace the front wheel, it technically shouldn't be a problem for motors under 1000W however, a normal bike frame isn't designed to handle the reverse stress put on it from the motor, this is especially bad if your bike is made out of aluminum, since if it does fail it'll just snap unlike a heavier metal such as steel which will slowly bend out of shape and give plenty of time to notice the failure and as you can imagine it would be pretty painful if not fatal to be traveling at 20mph (32kph) and have a frame failure, so personally I would rather not take the risk and just avoid frontal installations or at the very least take it as a serious issue and add some torque arms to reinforce it.
Hmmmmmm...should I get a 48V battery, or design a brand new ESC from scratch to allow 30V? Although 1000x harder, I’m glad you went with the latter 👍🏻
Nice sponsor! Thank you! :D
Thank God you made a video on this
This is a great project!! Really nice one!
I would love to make an electric bmx but I dont know how to do that :( Great video btw keep doin it man that's dope
Great video keep up the good work
I would love to see you attempt to build a BLDC motor from scratch!
Where do those two electrolytic capacitors go in the schematic? I notice they are in a few of the images but not in the schematic.
Keep it up,You are doing great🙂
scott
Interesting video as always
Love the video.
Have you ever thought of going the other way around. Trying to make a wind turbine out of those bike motors ???
Keep up the good work.
Thx for sharing.
Regards :)
Such a professional Work from you keep on :)
BTW, it's not "codes", it's just "code". When referring to programming, "the code" refers to all the program instructions. Each line of code is just call that, a "line of code", not a "code". A "code" is what you'd use to encrypt your messages so the enemy cant read them.
Great video and clarity in explanation. it is good for rotating the wheel with no load but if will burn out if u use it for the eBike. i would be great to see a real 48v version of this. i have been trying my own but current level is too high.
Can you make an automatic switch something like the I socket which turns on a vacuum or something when it senses current draw from a tool, I know it's not too complicated because I've seen other videos but they do not go in depth on how it works and how a normal person can actually make it, I know your things more about the automation and Arduino type projects but you can still make something as easy as this interesting
Hi there. I've created an ESC control and I would like to comment some things. I'm using 16.5KHz AND the potentiometer only control the PWM which starts with 5%. The next step will happens when the hall sensors to change. This way you don't need to wait. You will be always in sync, even in low or high speeds. Sorry my poor English.
Who the hell downvotes your videos? Seriously???
You should try FOC of the 3 phase BLDC.
BTW, even at 12V (and enough current)and proper control - you will not be able to stop wheel by hands.... But if you do - probably your winding wire is made of aluminium (yes aluminium, not aluminum)
Great video ! I love your work !
Awesome Video as always. Keep up the Good Work :D
That looks fun!
As the motor is more or less a synchronous motor, why not use the park transformation (who wouldn't) and get rid of the hall effect sensors?
Good work man
Scott!
Please can you make Arduino MIDI Controller.
Great Scott plz make a video on bubble wall(diy bubble wall)
Interesting project but why don't you just buy or build a 48 volt battery?
Great job. Can you make a video in which you explain how we can replace encoder of AC servo motor as this is something tricky to align U V W of the motor with with encoder U V W. As you know modern servo motor use encoder instead of hall effect sensors. Popular companies like Yaskawa and so provide software and kits to do so but its an expensive solution and there are many companies which provide good and cheap servo motor and drives but without this feature. We work with CNC machines were we find fault in just encoder but we can't change encoder due to this alignment issue and at the end we need to buy whole motor with encoder mounted and cost more :(
I would love to see a build of a DC generator regulator for this same type of motor.