I find your work very inspiring and entertaining to watch. As a fellow machinist I respect the effort you are putting in to get things looking right. You spend time getting the cross over between engineering, aesthetics and art perfect. It's these touches that turn a good functioning item into a pleasing great item. Much respect and thank you for the excellent content,essential viewing.
Only 214 likes? I can’t believe it. You do amazing work and you have such a calm and humble demeanor. Thank you for posting this and letting us all see a true master at work.
Since I was a teenager, I have always noticed that some drum brakes brake better than others. And I was always told that if they were perfectly tuned, they had better braking power than disc brakes, I never knew what was the procedure for tuning correctly until about 5 or 6 years ago, when a friend commented with me about this procedure. Now I really see the real professional doing it. From now on I will always do that. I really like this channel, I love these videos. Congratulations.
I noticed you mentioned the fact that some levers have the pinch bolt actually going a little into the spline, which obviously that entails having the middle of the spline ground away. All Yamahas that I've seen (worked in Yamaha dealership from 1976 through to 1992) and if the pinch bolt loosens, the lever can't fall off the spline due to the bolt being in the middle of the spline. My mates had Suzukis, and their pinch bolt was out of the spline. Gear levers used to fall off those, never ever lost one on a Yamaha. I love watching you work. Cheers
You’ve brought 70’s race bike prep back to life! Fond memories of racing...well, more shop time than race time. It would have helped to have had some of your skills then. How to properly fit the shoes to the drum wasn’t on my radar. Very interesting.
Hi Paul, love your video's which are well lit and clear.....I can see what you're up to. Bit of a shock to see you virtually unprotected while turning those asbestos linings; a good vacuum of the entire area is a must. With one eye on saving weight.....aren't your steel brake arms a bit chunky? My pal and I are doing something similar; fitting a CB77 brake into an 8'' Norton hub. Years ago I spent a winter stripping my Ducati F2 replica and lightened everything I felt safe to do. As the thing was minimal to begin with I was pleased to have lost 50lbs, even though individual parts would only lose a little bit; overall it all ads up! Your Aermacchi is one of my dream bikes, the frame design is an excellent demonstration of lightness and strength. And aren't they tiny. Francis Beart's example took it to the nth degree.
Thanks for liking our videos. I did have my shop vac setup if I remember correctly. I did make 6061 brake arms, did you see that? Yes, the grams and ounces do add up, so congrats on saving 50lbs! Thanks for watching and commenting.
That was some neat work and pretty much anyone could do it as there wasn't any TIG welding involved. The brake operating levers are a work of art, cutting splines isn't the easiest thing to do single point without some dedicated machinery.
I watched Allen Millyard make a spline for his shifter by sharpening a shifter spline and then cutting the aluminum shifter spline using his hydraulic press. It looked fine and he said it was "just perfect".
@@paulbrodie I watched several Allen Millyard video's recently and was very surprised how much he did before he had machinery. Pretty amazing what can be done with a hacksaw and a TIG welder. Guess that's why he's an engineer and I was a motorcycle tech LOL ;o)
You should try a woven brass lining on the first two inches of the leading edge on both front brake linings this combination stops the grabbing effect of the green lining
Orient your dial indicator pointer to a 3 or 9 o'clock position so its direction of movement agrees with the plunger, from the relative perspective of your steady cam friend, or the audience is fine too.
Excellent and instructive video Paul. Please let me give you a little tip that i did when racing, what's now called classics. To get your front and rear brakes even better, build your wheel rim onto your hub FIRST. The reason is that a hub will always distort a little when you build it. So it will be out of round. You then skim the hub round in the lathe. Then you measure and shim your brake linings as you have shown. File the leading edges of your brake linings at 45 degrees, helps stop grabbing, and Voila. You now have two-finger brakes. Hope you are going to do a video of it in action on the race track.??
Yes that is a good tip. However, my lathe is nowhere big enough to spin the hub and rim. I'm retired from racing, I crashed and broke my leg pretty badly. Memories now :)
@@paulbrodie I have the same problem . My Harrison M300 will just about fit a 19' rim, but i have to take out the bed piece. Taking that out and refitting for a three or four times a year job is a PITA. So what i do is go to a machine shop that I'm friends with and they let me use there big lathe that can swing it. Its only a 20 min job so I'm not in their hair for long. Sorry to hear that the leg got smashed. Hope it does not cause too much trouble. Regards, Fergie.
I think the number of likes would go up without the background noise ( some call it music). For me it is just noise .50 years ago I was doing lots of drum drakes jobs fitting the brake Linings to the drum was something I did every day. It needed to be very close to perfect or the vehicle would pull hard to one side. A few years later the government passed legislation that causes the end of the practice of shaping the lining in California . The only thing that saved the day was disk brakes on the front had become standard.
Paul, I just have one question. Shouldn't you have used a respirator when cutting the "maybe asbestos" pads ? The vacuum worked well enough after you had a surface but initially there was a lot of dust particles in the air !
Yes, you are probably right, but I am being recorded for the video, and so the sound quality would have changed for sure. I do one pair every 12 years, so I don't think I will die from a little dust. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie Carroll Smith has a few good books in the HP or MBI back catalogue. 'Nuts, Bolts & Fasteners Handbook' and one about plumbing have a lot of good data from the dawn of composites, when humans used slide rules to compute stresses and loads. Not that I'm being a Luddite, but those basics (like thread pitch) go all the way back to Archimedes. Great engineers like Chapman and Smith had a feel for what works.
@@jimurrata6785 Yes it's amazing what man did before computers. The Golden Gate bridge was designed using a slide rule and it's still being used everyday!
When I got the linings re-done on my Norton, the machinist put my whole front wheel in a large lathe, and lightly dressed the braking surface. The spoke tension can pull the drum out of round. After that, he machined the linings on the complete brake-plate to suit the (very slightly oversize) skimmed drum. You probably did it, but you did not show cutting a chamfer on the leading edge of the linings. Oh, and you didn't tell us how much weight you saved with the special parts on your brake-plate. We do like to know......
I checked the runout on my drum after the wheel was built, and it was only .003" It has been many months now, and I simply cannot remember if I did a chamfer, and how much weight I saved, sorry. Thanks for commenting.
l see you take health & safety very seriously while machining linings that "may contain asbestos" no dust mask and forgot to turn the vacuum on ! :-) im only laughing because i once took a angle grinder to some brake pads - i take safety & precision equally seriously ! great series as im just about to do some work on a 7" twin leading shoe hub with a damaged bearing seat. and was thinking of making some alloy levers you've motivated me to try.
Beautiful work! Just when we were thinking V-brakes were obsolete you start making a drum brake :) I wonder if it might get too hot in there for the Lithium grease.
Hi Paul. One question: How did you glue/fix the green race liners onto the hub since they are getting probably quite hot?! Thanks for your weekly doze and keep up doin it! Greets 2 Mitch Mystery as well of course!
I think you are asking: how did the green Ferodo linings get bonded onto the brake shoes? I took them to a local brake shop that specializes in re-lining brake shoes. I don't have the correct glue or expertise. Thanks for watching!
Hi Paul, I am a new subscriber to your channel & I am loving your work especially on the Aermacchi 👍 If I may give my own personal view, I think that Front and rear hubs look amazing, if you could just flare the leading edges of the air scoops I think this would really finish them off cosmetically,
Thank you. The hubs just got assembled (latest video..) after anodizing and nickel plating. The air scoops were anodized so I lost my chance to do a little flaring. Thanks for watching.
Leading shoe drum brake.. mechanical engineering term is "self energizing.. they're designed as basically a mechanical amplifier... you get more torque with minimal input... but. Obviously they're a little more complex than a regular drum brake that has 1 leading 1 following shoe.
@@paulbrodie You know what? I'm from Italy and I used to be a designer for Specialized in Morgan Hill back in 1989/90. I use to be with the Stumpjumper team (Ned overend, Lisa Muhich...and yes even the canadian Elladee Brown!) In Italy I do some bike and motorcycle restoration. You love race bike and I love offroad. Here I used to work with Gianni Pegoretti wich is the brother of Dario. Do you know him?
@@framolon3708 You know what? I almost had a job designing for Specialized back in '94, but then it fell through. I do ride a TRS trials bike, and that is off-road. I have heard of the Pegorettis, but I do not know them.
Bud, you're not getting it.. The coffee is for Mitch and I, and is the fuel to keep these videos going. It's OK if you watch anyway, but your support is appreciated.
This is awesome, I love that you made this whole process step-by-step and fully available on youtube.
Thanks Sean.
Where art and engineering collide, beautiful finished product. Lovely work.
I like that comment. Thank you James.
I find your work very inspiring and entertaining to watch. As a fellow machinist I respect the effort you are putting in to get things looking right. You spend time getting the cross over between engineering, aesthetics and art perfect. It's these touches that turn a good functioning item into a pleasing great item. Much respect and thank you for the excellent content,essential viewing.
Andrew, very nice comment. Thanks for watching!
Only 214 likes? I can’t believe it. You do amazing work and you have such a calm and humble demeanor. Thank you for posting this and letting us all see a true master at work.
Since I was a teenager, I have always noticed that some drum brakes brake better than others. And I was always told that if they were perfectly tuned, they had better braking power than disc brakes, I never knew what was the procedure for tuning correctly until about 5 or 6 years ago, when a friend commented with me about this procedure. Now I really see the real professional doing it. From now on I will always do that. I really like this channel, I love these videos. Congratulations.
Very nice comments. Thank you.
I noticed you mentioned the fact that some levers have the pinch bolt actually going a little into the spline, which obviously that entails having the middle of the spline ground away.
All Yamahas that I've seen (worked in Yamaha dealership from 1976 through to 1992) and if the pinch bolt loosens, the lever can't fall off the spline due to the bolt being in the middle of the spline.
My mates had Suzukis, and their pinch bolt was out of the spline. Gear levers used to fall off those, never ever lost one on a Yamaha.
I love watching you work. Cheers
Yes, the middle of the spline has a machined cutaway. I have never had a lever come loose or fall off. Thanks for watching.
Nice. As usual.
Thank you Michael.
Nice, rearching the pads made 100% difference in the performance even better if you did hub. Nice
You’ve brought 70’s race bike prep back to life! Fond memories of racing...well, more shop time than race time. It would have helped to have had some of your skills then. How to properly fit the shoes to the drum wasn’t on my radar. Very interesting.
I've just built the front wheel and was told to skim the drum to make it perfectly true, but my lathe isn't big enough... Thanks for watching!
Of course we learned something, Paul. 'Leave it to the experts'. Educational and entertaining, as ever. Thanks
I struggled with setting up a cb450 twin lead on my 71 xlch. I wish I had seen this video back then. Excellent work man you make it all look so easy
Thank you Damien.
Terrific results. And glad to see you took the extra time to bring in that shop vac!
Thanks Stu. Was that you asking about a book recently?
🤯. Waiting for more on this build!
More Aermacchi stuff coming soon :)
Your videos are more interesting than what is shown on UK TV stations.I like bike builds without the bullshit drama you got in say OCC.
Yes, but OCC can build a whole motorcycle in 3 days!
@@paulbrodie I've worked in the TV industry here in the UK and shows like OCC are known as scripted reality and I'm sceptical about their validity.
@@colinbatchford8007 Agreed!
Hi Paul, love your video's which are well lit and clear.....I can see what you're up to. Bit of a shock to see you virtually unprotected while turning those asbestos linings; a good vacuum of the entire area is a must. With one eye on saving weight.....aren't your steel brake arms a bit chunky? My pal and I are doing something similar; fitting a CB77 brake into an 8'' Norton hub.
Years ago I spent a winter stripping my Ducati F2 replica and lightened everything I felt safe to do. As the thing was minimal to begin with I was pleased to have lost 50lbs, even though individual parts would only lose a little bit; overall it all ads up! Your Aermacchi is one of my dream bikes, the frame design is an excellent demonstration of lightness and strength. And aren't they tiny. Francis Beart's example took it to the nth degree.
Thanks for liking our videos. I did have my shop vac setup if I remember correctly. I did make 6061 brake arms, did you see that? Yes, the grams and ounces do add up, so congrats on saving 50lbs! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Love your videos Paul, I always learn something new.
Thanks Paul... Keep the videos coming. :)
Excellent videos. Thank you.
... oh and the Peacock is gorgeous!!
I'm hoping there will be little peacocks this spring... Thanks for watching!
That was some neat work and pretty much anyone could do it as there wasn't any TIG welding involved. The brake operating levers are a work of art, cutting splines isn't the easiest thing to do single point without some dedicated machinery.
I watched Allen Millyard make a spline for his shifter by sharpening a shifter spline and then cutting the aluminum shifter spline using his hydraulic press. It looked fine and he said it was "just perfect".
@@paulbrodie I watched several Allen Millyard video's recently and was very surprised how much he did before he had machinery. Pretty amazing what can be done with a hacksaw and a TIG welder.
Guess that's why he's an engineer and I was a motorcycle tech LOL ;o)
@@1crazypj Yes, he does do a lot with a hacksaw and a TIG welder. I do suspect he has a few friends in the sidelines, however...
@@paulbrodie Yep, I've done a lot of hacksawing, chain drilling and filing, lathes and mills make things go a lot quicker.
so cool, the idea of making something just right
I've never seen brake linings milled on a router. Very cool.
I would call it turned on a lathe.. thanks for watching!
You should try a woven brass lining on the first two inches of the leading edge on both front brake linings this combination stops the grabbing effect of the green lining
I just chamfer the leading edge slightly with a file and... no problem. Thanks for watching.
Orient your dial indicator pointer to a 3 or 9 o'clock position so its direction of movement agrees with the plunger, from the relative perspective of your steady cam friend, or the audience is fine too.
I liked this Matey. Good work that I should be doing.
I just ordered a rim from Buchanans so the wheel will get built soon.
nice work
Thank you Skillful Man.
Excellent and instructive video Paul. Please let me give you a little tip that i did when racing, what's now called classics. To get your front and rear brakes even better, build your wheel rim onto your hub FIRST. The reason is that a hub will always distort a little when you build it. So it will be out of round.
You then skim the hub round in the lathe. Then you measure and shim your brake linings as you have shown. File the leading edges of your brake linings at 45 degrees, helps stop grabbing, and Voila. You now have two-finger brakes. Hope you are going to do a video of it in action on the race track.??
Yes that is a good tip. However, my lathe is nowhere big enough to spin the hub and rim. I'm retired from racing, I crashed and broke my leg pretty badly. Memories now :)
@@paulbrodie I have the same problem
. My Harrison M300 will just about fit a 19' rim, but i have to take out the bed piece. Taking that out and refitting for a three or four times a year job is a PITA. So what i do is go to a machine shop that I'm friends with and they let me use there big lathe that can swing it. Its only a 20 min job so I'm not in their hair for long. Sorry to hear that the leg got smashed. Hope it does not cause too much trouble. Regards, Fergie.
@@niff2966 Good to have friends like that :)
I think the number of likes would go up without the background noise ( some call it music). For me it is just noise .50 years ago I was doing lots of drum drakes jobs fitting the brake Linings to the drum was something I did every day. It needed to be very close to perfect or the vehicle would pull hard to one side. A few years later the government passed legislation that causes the end of the practice of shaping the lining in California . The only thing that saved the day was disk brakes on the front had become standard.
Perfect mister !
Very good idea to cut those splines before finishing the part
Yes, it's no fun making a nice part and then hacking the splines.
great series!
Paul, I just have one question. Shouldn't you have used a respirator when cutting the "maybe asbestos" pads ? The vacuum worked well enough after you had a surface but initially there was a lot of dust particles in the air !
Yes, you are probably right, but I am being recorded for the video, and so the sound quality would have changed for sure. I do one pair every 12 years, so I don't think I will die from a little dust. Thanks for watching!
"Add lightness"
Yup! I've found the Colin Chapman fan.
He wrote a book on fasteners and I read the whole thing.
@@paulbrodie Carroll Smith has a few good books in the HP or MBI back catalogue.
'Nuts, Bolts & Fasteners Handbook' and one about plumbing have a lot of good data from the dawn of composites, when humans used slide rules to compute stresses and loads.
Not that I'm being a Luddite, but those basics (like thread pitch) go all the way back to Archimedes.
Great engineers like Chapman and Smith had a feel for what works.
@@jimurrata6785 Yes it's amazing what man did before computers. The Golden Gate bridge was designed using a slide rule and it's still being used everyday!
Paul its a split pin cotter pins hold pushbike pedels on the pedelcrank
I really enjoy your projects and method of work. Keep it up.
When I got the linings re-done on my Norton, the machinist put my whole front wheel in a large lathe, and lightly dressed the braking surface. The spoke tension can pull the drum out of round. After that, he machined the linings on the complete brake-plate to suit the (very slightly oversize) skimmed drum.
You probably did it, but you did not show cutting a chamfer on the leading edge of the linings.
Oh, and you didn't tell us how much weight you saved with the special parts on your brake-plate. We do like to know......
I checked the runout on my drum after the wheel was built, and it was only .003" It has been many months now, and I simply cannot remember if I did a chamfer, and how much weight I saved, sorry. Thanks for commenting.
Beautiful job congratulations 💯🙌
Awesome 👍🏻
Todd, thanks for watching!
You are the Bob Ross of fabrication.
Bob Ross has come up in conversation before...
@@paulbrodie I’m not surprised. 😎
I just found this while at home with stomach ache, it's so good! Great videos and work. I can't place your accent, South African?
No, but good guess. Born in the UK and moved to Canada at nine years old. Thanks for watching.
Your videos are consistently brilliant. Who does the editing? Pure class! Keep it up guys!
Thank you! Mitch handles the filming and does the editing. Teamwork!
@@paulbrodie 🍻
l see you take health & safety very seriously while machining linings that "may contain asbestos" no dust mask and forgot to turn the vacuum on ! :-) im only laughing because i once took a angle grinder to some brake pads - i take safety & precision equally seriously ! great series as im just about to do some work on a 7" twin leading shoe hub with a damaged bearing seat. and was thinking of making some alloy levers you've motivated me to try.
Yes I take safety seriously, but I'm also able to make mistakes. Part of the human condition. Hope your brake turns out well.
Great video! Like the details and the vibe
Thank you.
Beautiful work! Just when we were thinking V-brakes were obsolete you start making a drum brake :) I wonder if it might get too hot in there for the Lithium grease.
Thanks Ben. Didn't actually make a drum brake; just modified it.. I think the lithium grease will be just fine in there!
Hi Paul.
One question:
How did you glue/fix the green race liners onto the hub since they are getting probably quite hot?!
Thanks for your weekly doze and keep up doin it! Greets 2 Mitch Mystery as well of course!
I think you are asking: how did the green Ferodo linings get bonded onto the brake shoes? I took them to a local brake shop that specializes in re-lining brake shoes. I don't have the correct glue or expertise. Thanks for watching!
Ok, so some special technique needed therefore. Thanks for the reply!
@@mbi379 Yes, don't take any chances on this. If a lining came off a brake shoe while in use, that would not be a good thing.
Hi Paul, I am a new subscriber to your channel & I am loving your work especially on the Aermacchi 👍
If I may give my own personal view, I think that Front and rear hubs look amazing, if you could just flare the leading edges of the air scoops I think this would really finish them off cosmetically,
Thank you. The hubs just got assembled (latest video..) after anodizing and nickel plating. The air scoops were anodized so I lost my chance to do a little flaring. Thanks for watching.
Did you ever hear about the great Italian racer "Ferodo Vaselinii"? Think about it.
Yes I'm sure there's a pun in there :)
You can save a bit of Material=Weight if you put the Bolt in londitudaly.
Thanks but I don't know which Bolt you are referring to...
@@paulbrodie If you rotate the clamping Bolt for the Spline by 90° (longitudly to the Lever) you wil find that you can trim off more material.
@@h-j.k.8971 Probably true, but that really would change the "look".
@@paulbrodie The "look" ah OK.
Make u-brakes for the romax next?
Not next but coming up soon!
Leading shoe drum brake.. mechanical engineering term is "self energizing.. they're designed as basically a mechanical amplifier... you get more torque with minimal input... but. Obviously they're a little more complex than a regular drum brake that has 1 leading 1 following shoe.
Yes, a twin leading shoe brake can have a lot of stopping power, but going backwards they hardly work at all..
Ok...very nice but how about some more magnesium brake boosters.
I'm not a foundry so I cannot cast magnesium in my shop sorry.
Excellent content.
Sub'd +1
Thank you 😉
You're a brave man: cutting brake shoes that may contain asbestos.
Yes, and I have siphoned gas through hose pipes, raced motorcycles and done numerous other crazy stuff. And I'm still here.
Who plays from 3.10?
That song is called Backwards by Staffan Carlen!
@@paulbrodie thank you Paul- I discovered your page yesterday, and since then, I didn' stop to watch your jobs. Amazing!
@@framolon3708 Fra, thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie You know what? I'm from Italy and I used to be a designer for Specialized in Morgan Hill back in 1989/90. I use to be with the Stumpjumper team (Ned overend, Lisa Muhich...and yes even the canadian Elladee Brown!) In Italy I do some bike and motorcycle restoration. You love race bike and I love offroad. Here I used to work with Gianni Pegoretti wich is the brother of Dario. Do you know him?
@@framolon3708 You know what? I almost had a job designing for Specialized back in '94, but then it fell through. I do ride a TRS trials bike, and that is off-road. I have heard of the Pegorettis, but I do not know them.
Love your videos………but I don’t like coffee. Is it OK if I watch anyway.
Bud, you're not getting it.. The coffee is for Mitch and I, and is the fuel to keep these videos going. It's OK if you watch anyway, but your support is appreciated.
@@paulbrodie 👨🦳🤔👍,senior moment,……got it.✌️
Welcome Back Cotter..pin?
I have my suspicions that there is a pun in there somewhere..
Sir your video is cover by the letter i can't see clearly.
I'm not sure what you mean... can you be more specific?
No one likes big wide slots ;)
You now have mesothelioma.