Brad I'm thinking of doing this to a guitar on the frankenstrat the stripes are white and my guitar is white so I am going to tape it up then spray it red and then do the black stripes will that work well????
@@BradAngove My guitar project is hanging from the ceiling of my garage when I spray painted it with the lacquer. I don't have the equipment you got, though I wish I did. I over did it a little and there is a streak going down the front of it. I will try it with the razor blade and then sand it with the 800. Will I have to put on another lacquer coat after I finish sanding it?
There’s no specific time. Once it starts to tack up up you pull the tape as long as you don’t touch the fresh paint anywhere. You can also wait longer.
Hey brad!! I just did this to my V. It was black I taped then white taped more and red on top. When I’m scuffing you even out my lines my white is tinting pink. What can I do?!! I waited a whole day before pulling the tape off
The white is tinting when you scuff the line with the red and the red is on top? Try putting a bit of water on a rag and rubbing the white down with that. Let me know if it works.
Pretty cool bro. I remember the first guitar that I ever worked on was a few years ago when a friend and I were customizing our guitars for for a band and I went with the Frankenstrat. At the time I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, what paint to use, what type of finish to use, etc. I used like two different brands of paint (Valspar and Rust-Oleum Enamel... not a good choice) and Valspar finish. I didn't sand the guitar down to the wood because it was made from not so great wood. The guitar was my first guitar ever. It was a cheaper guitar bought for my sister and when she got older she gave it to me for my Birthday. But anyways, My replica is great but at the same time terrible. I have the reflectors on the back I used a 2014 quarter I think because I wanted the year that I finished it. I had a Floyd for it but it wouldn't be able to handle it so I put a Fender Bridge and tuners on it. The pickups played with a Nice Marshall sounds like the real thing (You can see my replica in my profile pic lol). You make some pretty good videos. I've watched them countless times and now I'm creating my own brand of guitars and things are going pretty well. I appreciate your videos, they are helpful! Keep it up and can't wait to see part 3!
Have you tried other types of tape to prevent the paint from bleeding? Of course we have the blue painters tape but I find that paint bleeds under it too. You can use a smooth object such as the end of some ballpoint pens to go over the tape edges and burnish them down so paint won't bleed under them. I've tried a pink painters tape that is made for delicate surfaces. It seems to make a much sharper edge but if you don't press it down good paint can still seep under it. Modelmakers use a tape made by Tamiya that is supposed to give very nice edges. I haven't tried any of that yet.
Thinner coats can alleviate the problem to some degree if you’re worried about the razor work afterward. It probably won’t sort it out entirely, but it might. Bleeding is inconsistent, so it’s entirely possible that one could get through a paintjob without having any.
Brad Angove im currently looking to respay my second bass to a black and white version of this. Domt like the idea of the razor blade. Ill try thinner coats. Hopfuly thatll work. My previous spray job was a white coat with splatter, so no need for hard lines. Thisll be an interesting experience
Brad Angove im currently looking to respay my second bass to a black and white version of this. Domt like the idea of the razor blade. Ill try thinner coats. Hopfuly thatll work. My previous spray job was a white coat with splatter, so no need for hard lines. Thisll be an interesting experience
Brad Angove just came across another tip. Spray base colour (black), mask, spray base colour again, then go for the other colour. The bleed will happen but with the black, forming a barrier to prevent thr red from bleeding
Having it black is the best. I had to paint a blank body black. Tape it, paint it white. Tape it, paint it red. You layed out to much work. I did mine my way because that's how Eddie did it.
Hi Brad, I am in the process of making a Frankenstrat, brought a red Guitar, striped it and took the gloss off with Scott Brite, cleaned and tape it up and sprayed Rust- Oleum White Lacquer spray paint, two coats, ten minutes apart the question is do I have to scott brite the gloss off the white lacquer paint before spraying the black. THANKS
I literally can't get a hold of red or grey scotch brite pads. So you say it's ok to go ahead and use the 600 grit sandpaper to get the ridges down before clear coating? That will have to do but I'm just concerned about sanding the bits that have just been sprayed on....
I’m thinking of getting a kit to do this with. I would want to relic mine. So, would I do all the relic on the body after the painting, but before clear coat, or just do everything after clear coat and polishing?
this is eactly what i wanna do with an old white tele body. i was gonna strip with chemicals and start from the wood grain but if it's white i suppose i can skip a few chemical steps bc i don't wanna use a heat gun and scraper. so i guess i can use white as a base and just spray b&r. after all evh's frnsrt started as b&w and then he put red on top
Great video and great channel ! I would’ve thought that after black you would’ve done the white stripes and then painted it red last. I’ve never painted anything what do I know? I’m following you this channel is awesome
Hello there brad. About the prepping for clear coat, what number of grit of sand paper would you recommend for a glossy paint? I used a flat black acryclic spray paint however, I coated it glossy white afterwards to look like the black and white frankenstrat. Thanks for the tutorial btw
I heard that Van Halen (although I dont think its true when you look at the original) used electrical tape for the stripes wondering how you think that would work given that vinyl decals are pretty similar?
How long does the paint need to cure before it's clear coated? I have a body I made last fall and I want to finish it this summer but don't know how long to let it sit before I start assembling.
Brad, I'm Brazilian subscribe, sorry for my English. But, it wasn't easier if you had painted the white before the red? you could masked the body easier and straighter, couldn't? thank you for videos, I've been learning a lot.
Well you could paint the body in white colour, then mask like you did for the black and paint the red... Yeah, in the end everything would be the same... Your videos are awesome, thanks for sharing your knowledgement with us!
Great video man! I will start mine soon over a black strat body! Do you think that only the 600 grit sanding paper for removing the gloss and the lighter fluid for grease removal will do the job?
Brad, I just stripped my old Squire Strat down to do the black and white version (re-do...did it once 10 years ago). I stripped all the paint...what grit sandpaper should I finish with on the bare wood before applying a primer? Also, are there specific enamel cans you recommend? Finally, you don't sand between coats of paint? Just one color, rough up with gray scotch brite, next color, rough up, clear? Thanks...sorry, a little long winded lol
Hi Ryan. I like to sand to about 320 or 400 before applying sealer or primer. Some people prefer to just sand to 220, which should also be fine. Let your primer or sealer dry fully and sand that flat to 600 grit before proceeding to your colour. The scotch brite has essentially the same effect as sanding. It scuffs the surface so subsequent coats can stick. You can use sandpaper instead if you want; I just find that the scotch brite is faster and makes getting into the curves etc. easier. If there are major imperfections in your paint, sanding is likely a better option.
For painting in house I tape, then use a really thin layer of the paint, and allow it to dry. Then spray away. The thin dried layer should prevent the bleeding.
Hey Brad, love the channel! I wanted to know if using a 600 grit would be comparable to the scuff pad? Doing a splinter camo PBass and don't want to mess this up at the end lol. I should mention this will be completely matte
Hey Brad, one question: While scuffing up the paint on my guitar I immediately started getting discolored spots and blemishes, as opposed to an even scuffed surface (like I would when scuffing up polyurethane for example.) This was with grits as high as 800-1200 Grit. The paint had cured for a few days. Is it possible not all paints are created equal when it comes to...scuffability? (I was using Rust-oleum Painter's Touch 2X Paint+Primer.) Thanks.
+chutni -fier That paint is just as "scuffable" as any, but it's possible that it didn't quite dry properly. I assume you've now scuffed the entire surface and still have varying discoloration?
+chutni -fier That's rather strange. Sometimes that paint does things that I don't understand. Does the paint feel properly hardened at this point? You weren't using the 2-in-1 paint and primer were you?
Hey Brad. Yes that's right, the paint did feel properly hardened at the time (as far as I could tell.) And yes, I was using the 2-in-1 paint and primer, is that what could've caused it?
Now that I've gone from 8-2k grit, came out sick looking, do you reccomend I go over it with 800 before taping it up? And what sandpaper should one use to reduce the ridges. Tx
Brad Angove tbh I went a bit overboard because I had so many grits and it kept getting better, it didn't ruin the white finish, and so I just kept going cuz there were hits that needed smoothed down where the spray ran be I was too close. But now it's smooth and ready for tape unless you think I should give it some 800. I also tweeted you. ATM I'm just eager to tape it up.
Looking good so far. The original Frankenstrat was a black base, white over that, then red over that. There are a few replication vids on RUclips, but I think going your own route makes it more personal. Unless you absolutely have to have a duplicate...
If i had to have a duplicate I would have had to print off several reference photos, check my tape widths, etc. Hopefully nobody assumes that this is designed to look exactly the same. Frankenstrat seems like a fairly general term for this type of paint job to me.
Brad, when the guitar is completely painted and prior to clear coating, you suggest to sand the lines to make the transitions smooth. Do you suggest sanding the entire guitar or just where the lines are? My concern is that after sanding the lines, there will be a visible difference between where the guitar has been sanded and where is has not been sanded (causing transitions of smooth but more dull paint, as opposed to areas which haven't been sanded which will remain more vivid). Or will these areas of difference go away after clear coating? Thanks in advance.
You sand the transitions smooth and then lightly sand the whole thing to allow the clear to adhere properly. The transition would disappear under the clear though. The dull areas return to full gloss once coated.
@@BradAngove Got it, that's helpful. One more question, if you don't mind: I watched your video on polishing using an automotive compound. So, after clear coating, you recommended to sand the guitar down prior to applying the polish. What grit would you recommend and how do you know how much to sand and when to stop? Just a light scuff all around until it's dull all over? Thanks in advance.
Really a testament about how iconic Eddie is. Just get a guitar you love, smoke a joint, and blast it with spray paint and masking tape. Amazing Art. Buy a cheap guitar and go Eddie on it. Cheap.
This way is actually wayyyy more difficult, and it looks less like the real one. You gotta have a black base, then paint white over that in the pattern. Then and only then do you paint over that with red. It brings the colors out way more, and it’s 100000x easier.
Really, "one hundred THOUSAND times" easier "? You have " exaggeration ", " over exaggeration", and "ricockulously exaggerated", yours is the third one.
@@BradAngove Brings out the bright tone of the red and white allowing for more contrast with the black. Is it unprofessional or something to say that colors can be brought out? Not only that, but the gloss in between layers is important. What you put on underneath is as important as the colors you use. I suggest watching Johnny B Guitars. He has done many painstaking videos and sample bodies which look damn near perfect with the technique I listed above. The original technique is way easier than the one in this vid, though a little tedious if you want all the paint chipping of the original (which requires water-removable glue and patience). Be careful not to fall too far down the rabbit hole though.
@@joeydodge2624 Yeah, honestly I'd say it's that much easier. If you're not going for the same pattern as the original like in this video, you can have a much easier time with the technique I listed (though it requires some glossing and sanding in between jobs). Not only is it easier, but it looks a lot better as it allows the red and white to be brighter, thus contrasting more with the black, and making it look all the more like the original paint job.
I'm curious....you say that you're going to use a polyurethane clear coat to finish. Why not use the enamel clear to match the enamel paint? What are the pro's and cons of using the polyurethane clear coat? Thanks for another great series.... :)
he's gonna use poly because most guitar shops use poly to protect their finishes. it is a lot more durable than enamel, I believe anyways. Chime on in for ur opinion Brad if you like. :) \m/
There's nothing wrong with using an enamel to match in most cases, but I'm going to be using a catalyzed polyurethane. It's a more durable and more professional product for this sort of job. Mostly I'm doing it for the purpose of demonstrating the polyurethane, and creating a tutorial on how to get a professional looking finish with spray cans.
Thanks for that Brad. I'm not sure whether or not catalyzed polyurethane clear is available in spray cans in NZ or not, I'll have to do some research, but either way, I'm looking forward to seeing your results, which I'm sure will be great.
When I get closer to the time I'll start firing off emails to all the paint suppliers and see what I can find. I'm sure something will be available. I've just watched the clear coat video and I am very impressed with the results...even before any polishing. Your tutorials are excellent Brad and the information is very valuable.....thank you for your immense efforts.
Great job on probably the most sought after guitar in rock n roll. A question regarding matte vs gloss paints. Sorry if you already covered this in a previous video... If the guitar is going to get multiple clear coats and then a final top gloss final coat, does it matter whether the actual colors beneath are gloss or matte? My assumption is all the glossiness is going to reflect exclusively on that final clear top coat. Also, I hope you're not going to do the infamous relic steps . Most of the stuff I've come across on this DIY guitar involved the builder beating up an otherwise beautiful showroom finish by scraping and burning all EVH's normal wear and imperfections. I realize it wouldn't be seen as a close replica, but I believe in having the best of both worlds.
You’re correct, the gloss is derived from the final coats. You just need to be careful that you are not trying to spray directly over a glossy base coat without sanding. Your paint won’t adhere properly if you do that.
Ok Brad I have spent much time watching your videos (I actually subscribed tonight!) I plan to paint a guitar of mine. I'll just type out the steps I plan to take. Could you please correct me if I'm planning something wrong? First I'll use 600-800 grit paper with a block to get the shine off of the guitar. I won't be sanding all the way down to the wood, so I assume it is safe to skip the use of primer and move on to applying my paint on top of the old paint. The paint I'm going to use is Krylon Glitter Blast (it will look cool haha) I'm not sure about what type of paint that is (enamel?) After applying the coats, what should I use for that glossy finish? Thank you for your time and your great videos!
You've got the steps right. I'm also not sure what kind of paint the krylon glitter blast is. If you find out, you can use the same kind. Otherwise, let it dry for a couple weeks and you can use enamel or polyurethane. Have you had a look at the video where I clear coat this guitar? You may want to consider using that clear coat.
Dude your vids are amazing. Subbed. Im going to attempt a swirl finish, would the clear you used on this work fine? and should i scuff the swirl before clear or build the clear up over the imperfections?
Cool, was just worried about possibly wrecking the swirl by scuffing it. Also an idea for a new vid could be holoflashing like the old kramers. Looks really cool.
@@BradAngove Thanks. I have advantage of painting a waterproof item as opposed to a wood guitar so that should help. I'm aiming for smooth lines and a glossy finish and I got some great tips from your videos.
I suppose it might have made sense to use a reference photo and go for a full-on replica, but hopefully everyone realizes that the techniques are the same.
thank you, I came to learn how to deal with those edges
Glad I could help
13:52 what grit sandpaper did you use?
It's looking pretty sweet, especially the front !!
Thank you!
Amazing. Thank you. I want to do this !!!!
Looking forwards to the rest of these series. I like that you don't try for exact replica.
The last video in this series is my video on getting a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
Brad I'm thinking of doing this to a guitar on the frankenstrat the stripes are white and my guitar is white so I am going to tape it up then spray it red and then do the black stripes will that work well????
That should work fine.
very cool Brad I like it !
Thank you!
I think it looks great and authentic before the clear.
If you get lacquer streaks down your guitar, do you use 800 grit sandpaper to get the lacquer bubbles/streaks out?
You’re getting runs? Yes, I scrape them smooth with a razor blade usually and then sand with 800.
@@BradAngove My guitar project is hanging from the ceiling of my garage when I spray painted it with the lacquer. I don't have the equipment you got, though I wish I did. I over did it a little and there is a streak going down the front of it. I will try it with the razor blade and then sand it with the 800. Will I have to put on another lacquer coat after I finish sanding it?
Not necessarily. You may be able to just go ahead and sand and polish after that.
@@BradAngove Well its ruined now. I have to get lacquer thinner and start over...
What happened? I thought you just had a paint run you needed to take out?
How did u stop the paint from bleeding
Use good tape. Sometimes it will bleed a bit and you have to go in and clean it up after.
So if im painting with matte spray paint, there's no need to scuff. Is that right? Thanks for the videos, amazing!
No, you should still scuff.
How much time before you can pull off ALL the tape after last color coat?
There’s no specific time. Once it starts to tack up up you pull the tape as long as you don’t touch the fresh paint anywhere. You can also wait longer.
@@BradAngove Thx Brad. 👌
What if you start with a plain wood body?
You’ll need to seal it first.
Hey brad!! I just did this to my V. It was black I taped then white taped more and red on top. When I’m scuffing you even out my lines my white is tinting pink. What can I do?!! I waited a whole day before pulling the tape off
The white is tinting when you scuff the line with the red and the red is on top?
Try putting a bit of water on a rag and rubbing the white down with that. Let me know if it works.
Brad Angove no luck with that. Tried a high grit wet sanding and magic eraser too. Just decided to cut my losses and clear it before it got worse
Pretty cool bro. I remember the first guitar that I ever worked on was a few years ago when a friend and I were customizing our guitars for for a band and I went with the Frankenstrat. At the time I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, what paint to use, what type of finish to use, etc. I used like two different brands of paint (Valspar and Rust-Oleum Enamel... not a good choice) and Valspar finish. I didn't sand the guitar down to the wood because it was made from not so great wood. The guitar was my first guitar ever. It was a cheaper guitar bought for my sister and when she got older she gave it to me for my Birthday. But anyways, My replica is great but at the same time terrible. I have the reflectors on the back I used a 2014 quarter I think because I wanted the year that I finished it. I had a Floyd for it but it wouldn't be able to handle it so I put a Fender Bridge and tuners on it. The pickups played with a Nice Marshall sounds like the real thing (You can see my replica in my profile pic lol). You make some pretty good videos. I've watched them countless times and now I'm creating my own brand of guitars and things are going pretty well. I appreciate your videos, they are helpful! Keep it up and can't wait to see part 3!
Have you tried other types of tape to prevent the paint from bleeding? Of course we have the blue painters tape but I find that paint bleeds under it too. You can use a smooth object such as the end of some ballpoint pens to go over the tape edges and burnish them down so paint won't bleed under them. I've tried a pink painters tape that is made for delicate surfaces. It seems to make a much sharper edge but if you don't press it down good paint can still seep under it. Modelmakers use a tape made by Tamiya that is supposed to give very nice edges. I haven't tried any of that yet.
I’ve tried a few options. Some are definitely better than others.
Wouldn't thinner coats get round the bleeding problem? Might take longer but there's less paint to actually run and bleed through the tape.
Thinner coats can alleviate the problem to some degree if you’re worried about the razor work afterward. It probably won’t sort it out entirely, but it might. Bleeding is inconsistent, so it’s entirely possible that one could get through a paintjob without having any.
Brad Angove im currently looking to respay my second bass to a black and white version of this. Domt like the idea of the razor blade. Ill try thinner coats. Hopfuly thatll work.
My previous spray job was a white coat with splatter, so no need for hard lines.
Thisll be an interesting experience
Brad Angove im currently looking to respay my second bass to a black and white version of this. Domt like the idea of the razor blade. Ill try thinner coats. Hopfuly thatll work.
My previous spray job was a white coat with splatter, so no need for hard lines.
Thisll be an interesting experience
Brad Angove just came across another tip. Spray base colour (black), mask, spray base colour again, then go for the other colour. The bleed will happen but with the black, forming a barrier to prevent thr red from bleeding
That will prevent the look of bleeding, but will also create a more significant ridge issue between the colours.
Having it black is the best. I had to paint a blank body black. Tape it, paint it white. Tape it, paint it red. You layed out to much work. I did mine my way because that's how Eddie did it.
Eddie took the tape off between the white and red coats
Hi Brad, I am in the process of making a Frankenstrat, brought a red Guitar, striped it and took the gloss off with Scott Brite, cleaned and tape it up and sprayed Rust- Oleum White Lacquer spray paint, two coats, ten minutes apart the question is do I have to scott brite the gloss off the white lacquer paint before spraying the black. THANKS
+Bob Vislocky You should. It'll help the black stick to the white, and also help the clear stick later.
Is it better to paint inside or outside?
It depends on the circumstances. It’s better for the paint to do it inside, but if you spray this stuff in your house it’ll kill you eventually.
Brad, near the end of the video, you use a scotchbrite pad. If I were to use sandpaper instead, what grit should I use? Thanks.
600
Thanks
@@BradAngove
I literally can't get a hold of red or grey scotch brite pads. So you say it's ok to go ahead and use the 600 grit sandpaper to get the ridges down before clear coating? That will have to do but I'm just concerned about sanding the bits that have just been sprayed on....
Go with 800 grit. It should work just as well as the scotch brite and will have slightly less risk of sanding through than the 600.
Brad Angove thankś, should the 800 be wet or dry?
+D'sBalls I generally like to avoid wet-sanding guitars so I don't risk creating swelling from the water getting into the wood somehow.
I’m thinking of getting a kit to do this with. I would want to relic mine. So, would I do all the relic on the body after the painting, but before clear coat, or just do everything after clear coat and polishing?
It depends on the effect your going for. Usually after clear. Not this type of clear though.
Great videos well done sir !
Hi brad, how many red paint you use on the guitar? Thanks
How many? Just one red paint.
Ok brad, thank you
this is eactly what i wanna do with an old white tele body. i was gonna strip with chemicals and start from the wood grain but if it's white i suppose i can skip a few chemical steps bc i don't wanna use a heat gun and scraper. so i guess i can use white as a base and just spray b&r. after all evh's frnsrt started as b&w and then he put red on top
+D'sBalls ya, there's really no reason to strip off the first colour if it fits within the scheme.
Great video and great channel ! I would’ve thought that after black you would’ve done the white stripes and then painted it red last. I’ve never painted anything what do I know? I’m following you this channel is awesome
You can do it in any order. It’s just a matter of knowing what to tape off.
Seems much much easier to do black white then red. Just like Eddie did
How long did you wait for the paint to dry before you scuffed it and put more tape on it for another paint layer?
A day.
@@BradAngoveThanks.
Hello there brad. About the prepping for clear coat, what number of grit of sand paper would you recommend for a glossy paint? I used a flat black acryclic spray paint however, I coated it glossy white afterwards to look like the black and white frankenstrat.
Thanks for the tutorial btw
I use 800 grit to prep for clear coat.
Thanks! You're videos are very helpful. This is my first time painting my old guitar
Does the 2 part clear adhere well to the enamels?
+Zack Allen If the enamels have had plenty of time to cure and have been scuffed properly it should.
Brad Angove ok, thanks!
I heard that Van Halen (although I dont think its true when you look at the original) used electrical tape for the stripes wondering how you think that would work given that vinyl decals are pretty similar?
It should work, it would just leave behind some residue that would need to be cleaned off before clear coating.
How long does the paint need to cure before it's clear coated? I have a body I made last fall and I want to finish it this summer but don't know how long to let it sit before I start assembling.
I let the paint cure for about a week on this one. I would leave the clear for a week or two as well before assembling with the catalyzed stuff.
Brad, I'm Brazilian subscribe, sorry for my English. But, it wasn't easier if you had painted the white before the red? you could masked the body easier and straighter, couldn't? thank you for videos, I've been learning a lot.
I don't see how that would have made it easier, but it might have. It's kind of hard to say. really it all amounts to essentially the same thing.
Well you could paint the body in white colour, then mask like you did for the black and paint the red... Yeah, in the end everything would be the same... Your videos are awesome, thanks for sharing your knowledgement with us!
Thanks for watching.
What Spray paints would you recommend for a 2K clear. There seam to be no real answer or recommendation that I'm finding on the net anywhere. Thanks
Spraymax makes their own spray paints that work well with this stuff. Generally any acrylic also seems to work fine.
Great video man! I will start mine soon over a black strat body! Do you think that only the 600 grit sanding paper for removing the gloss and the lighter fluid for grease removal will do the job?
Brad, I just stripped my old Squire Strat down to do the black and white version (re-do...did it once 10 years ago).
I stripped all the paint...what grit sandpaper should I finish with on the bare wood before applying a primer? Also, are there specific enamel cans you recommend? Finally, you don't sand between coats of paint? Just one color, rough up with gray scotch brite, next color, rough up, clear?
Thanks...sorry, a little long winded lol
Hi Ryan. I like to sand to about 320 or 400 before applying sealer or primer. Some people prefer to just sand to 220, which should also be fine. Let your primer or sealer dry fully and sand that flat to 600 grit before proceeding to your colour.
The scotch brite has essentially the same effect as sanding. It scuffs the surface so subsequent coats can stick. You can use sandpaper instead if you want; I just find that the scotch brite is faster and makes getting into the curves etc. easier. If there are major imperfections in your paint, sanding is likely a better option.
For painting in house I tape, then use a really thin layer of the paint, and allow it to dry. Then spray away. The thin dried layer should prevent the bleeding.
looking good !
Thanks Sam.
Hey Brad, love the channel! I wanted to know if using a 600 grit would be comparable to the scuff pad? Doing a splinter camo PBass and don't want to mess this up at the end lol. I should mention this will be completely matte
Yes, that should work fine.
@@BradAngove awesome thanks so much!
Hey Brad, one question: While scuffing up the paint on my guitar I immediately started getting discolored spots and blemishes, as opposed to an even scuffed surface (like I would when scuffing up polyurethane for example.) This was with grits as high as 800-1200 Grit. The paint had cured for a few days. Is it possible not all paints are created equal when it comes to...scuffability? (I was using Rust-oleum Painter's Touch 2X Paint+Primer.) Thanks.
+chutni -fier That paint is just as "scuffable" as any, but it's possible that it didn't quite dry properly. I assume you've now scuffed the entire surface and still have varying discoloration?
Yes that's exactly right, the discoloration is slight and indeed in varying spots,
+chutni -fier That's rather strange. Sometimes that paint does things that I don't understand. Does the paint feel properly hardened at this point?
You weren't using the 2-in-1 paint and primer were you?
Hey Brad. Yes that's right, the paint did feel properly hardened at the time (as far as I could tell.) And yes, I was using the 2-in-1 paint and primer, is that what could've caused it?
+chutni -fier I'm not sure. I generally don't trust the 2-in1 stuff.
Now that I've gone from 8-2k grit, came out sick looking, do you reccomend I go over it with 800 before taping it up? And what sandpaper should one use to reduce the ridges.
Tx
+D'sBalls I use 800 grit for edges. Why did you go up to 2k again? Sorry; I can't see the initial comment thread on this app.
Brad Angove tbh I went a bit overboard because I had so many grits and it kept getting better, it didn't ruin the white finish, and so I just kept going cuz there were hits that needed smoothed down where the spray ran be I was too close. But now it's smooth and ready for tape unless you think I should give it some 800. I also tweeted you. ATM I'm just eager to tape it up.
I'd give it just a very light scuff with the 800 to make it easier for the next stuff to stick.
Looking good so far. The original Frankenstrat was a black base, white over that, then red over that. There are a few replication vids on RUclips, but I think going your own route makes it more personal. Unless you absolutely have to have a duplicate...
If i had to have a duplicate I would have had to print off several reference photos, check my tape widths, etc. Hopefully nobody assumes that this is designed to look exactly the same. Frankenstrat seems like a fairly general term for this type of paint job to me.
Yep, I think you're nailing it.
Brad, when the guitar is completely painted and prior to clear coating, you suggest to sand the lines to make the transitions smooth. Do you suggest sanding the entire guitar or just where the lines are? My concern is that after sanding the lines, there will be a visible difference between where the guitar has been sanded and where is has not been sanded (causing transitions of smooth but more dull paint, as opposed to areas which haven't been sanded which will remain more vivid). Or will these areas of difference go away after clear coating? Thanks in advance.
You sand the transitions smooth and then lightly sand the whole thing to allow the clear to adhere properly. The transition would disappear under the clear though. The dull areas return to full gloss once coated.
@@BradAngove That's very helpful, Brad. Which grit paper would you use for each, please?
I would stick to 800 grit for that whole process.
@@BradAngove Got it, that's helpful. One more question, if you don't mind: I watched your video on polishing using an automotive compound. So, after clear coating, you recommended to sand the guitar down prior to applying the polish. What grit would you recommend and how do you know how much to sand and when to stop? Just a light scuff all around until it's dull all over? Thanks in advance.
No, you sand flat at a high grit like 1000, and then you sand smooth to the highest grit possible before polishing.
Great job Brad, thank you. How long after painting do you recommend removing the tape?
You can wait as long as you want, but to minimize the risk of paint lifting I like to do is as soon as I can without messing up the paint.
Thank Brad, is it reasonable to wait the 30 minute dry time of paint like rustoleum before removing tape.
Yes, there’s nothing wrong with that.
Brad, sorry I forgot one question. Once you apply the base colour, how long after can you start taping? (Rustoleum) Thank you much.
It depends on how thick you apply it. If you’re doing nice thin coats it’s usually good to tape in a day or two.
Really a testament about how iconic Eddie is. Just get a guitar you love, smoke a joint, and blast it with spray paint and masking tape. Amazing Art. Buy a cheap guitar and go Eddie on it. Cheap.
He’s a legend
Hey brad, how long did you let the paint dry?
A day or two if I remember correctly.
Brad Angove and the 2K clear coat, how long did you let that dry
About the same.
Brad Angove you don’t need to dry it for 14 days?
The catalyzed products cures much quicker. That’s the effect of the catalyst. It speeds up the reaction.
This way is actually wayyyy more difficult, and it looks less like the real one. You gotta have a black base, then paint white over that in the pattern. Then and only then do you paint over that with red. It brings the colors out way more, and it’s 100000x easier.
Brings out the colors more? You must realize that that makes no sense.
Really, "one hundred THOUSAND times" easier "? You have " exaggeration ", " over exaggeration", and "ricockulously exaggerated", yours is the third one.
@@BradAngove Brings out the bright tone of the red and white allowing for more contrast with the black. Is it unprofessional or something to say that colors can be brought out? Not only that, but the gloss in between layers is important. What you put on underneath is as important as the colors you use. I suggest watching Johnny B Guitars. He has done many painstaking videos and sample bodies which look damn near perfect with the technique I listed above. The original technique is way easier than the one in this vid, though a little tedious if you want all the paint chipping of the original (which requires water-removable glue and patience). Be careful not to fall too far down the rabbit hole though.
@@joeydodge2624 Yeah, honestly I'd say it's that much easier. If you're not going for the same pattern as the original like in this video, you can have a much easier time with the technique I listed (though it requires some glossing and sanding in between jobs). Not only is it easier, but it looks a lot better as it allows the red and white to be brighter, thus contrasting more with the black, and making it look all the more like the original paint job.
@@llla_german_ewoklll6413 Yes, I understand, I was just busting balls.
I'm curious....you say that you're going to use a polyurethane clear coat to finish. Why not use the enamel clear to match the enamel paint? What are the pro's and cons of using the polyurethane clear coat? Thanks for another great series.... :)
he's gonna use poly because most guitar shops use poly to protect their finishes. it is a lot more durable than enamel, I believe anyways. Chime on in for ur opinion Brad if you like. :) \m/
There's nothing wrong with using an enamel to match in most cases, but I'm going to be using a catalyzed polyurethane. It's a more durable and more professional product for this sort of job. Mostly I'm doing it for the purpose of demonstrating the polyurethane, and creating a tutorial on how to get a professional looking finish with spray cans.
Thanks for that Brad. I'm not sure whether or not catalyzed polyurethane clear is available in spray cans in NZ or not, I'll have to do some research, but either way, I'm looking forward to seeing your results, which I'm sure will be great.
I'm not sure what's available there. Maybe DNA paints (from Australia) makes something suitable. Anyway, the results are posted. Hopefully you enjoy.
When I get closer to the time I'll start firing off emails to all the paint suppliers and see what I can find. I'm sure something will be available.
I've just watched the clear coat video and I am very impressed with the results...even before any polishing. Your tutorials are excellent Brad and the information is very valuable.....thank you for your immense efforts.
Great job on probably the most sought after guitar in rock n roll. A question regarding matte vs gloss paints. Sorry if you already covered this in a previous video... If the guitar is going to get multiple clear coats and then a final top gloss final coat, does it matter whether the actual colors beneath are gloss or matte? My assumption is all the glossiness is going to reflect exclusively on that final clear top coat.
Also, I hope you're not going to do the infamous relic steps . Most of the stuff I've come across on this DIY guitar involved the builder beating up an otherwise beautiful showroom finish by scraping and burning all EVH's normal wear and imperfections. I realize it wouldn't be seen as a close replica, but I believe in having the best of both worlds.
You’re correct, the gloss is derived from the final coats. You just need to be careful that you are not trying to spray directly over a glossy base coat without sanding. Your paint won’t adhere properly if you do that.
Ok Brad I have spent much time watching your videos (I actually subscribed tonight!)
I plan to paint a guitar of mine. I'll just type out the steps I plan to take. Could you please correct me if I'm planning something wrong?
First I'll use 600-800 grit paper with a block to get the shine off of the guitar. I won't be sanding all the way down to the wood, so I assume it is safe to skip the use of primer and move on to applying my paint on top of the old paint. The paint I'm going to use is Krylon Glitter Blast (it will look cool haha) I'm not sure about what type of paint that is (enamel?) After applying the coats, what should I use for that glossy finish? Thank you for your time and your great videos!
You've got the steps right. I'm also not sure what kind of paint the krylon glitter blast is. If you find out, you can use the same kind. Otherwise, let it dry for a couple weeks and you can use enamel or polyurethane. Have you had a look at the video where I clear coat this guitar? You may want to consider using that clear coat.
Dude your vids are amazing. Subbed. Im going to attempt a swirl finish, would the clear you used on this work fine? and should i scuff the swirl before clear or build the clear up over the imperfections?
+Michael Peretto This clear should work fine. You definitely need to scuff first; not just for imperfections, but to make sure it sticks.
Cool, was just worried about possibly wrecking the swirl by scuffing it. Also an idea for a new vid could be holoflashing like the old kramers. Looks really cool.
+Michael Peretto I have no idea how to do that stuff haha. If I ever figure it out well enough to be able to teach it I will definitely do a video.
Brad Angove as far as i know, its a film you iron on to a black base coat but i think you have to layer on a water based clear really thick.
That sounds like an interesting process.
I'm about to do this to a hockey goalie mask. I think most of this will translate to that.
It should. Just make sure you are using plastic compatible primer.
@@BradAngove Thanks. I have advantage of painting a waterproof item as opposed to a wood guitar so that should help. I'm aiming for smooth lines and a glossy finish and I got some great tips from your videos.
= AWESOME = LONG LIVE EDDIE !!!!!!!!!!!!
The color is not as detailed as the original but still imppresive!!
I suppose it might have made sense to use a reference photo and go for a full-on replica, but hopefully everyone realizes that the techniques are the same.
Brad Angove i agree, but it will take alot more effort and time to try replicating the exact positions of the stripes
Yes, and I wasn’t really aiming to re-create someone else’s work to that extent.
I would of just painted the whole thing black and then I would cover the spots the paint it white cover up the spots then color it all red
\(*u*)/ brad! I really appreciate your tutorials.
Thank you. I'm glad you like them.
Prácticamente se metió por el culo el diseño. Saludos ✌🏻
Get your guitar to the most perfect paint design, then scuff it up😂😂😂
+Read my bio! Come on do it!!!!!! That's how painting works.
You obviously don't know how paint works...
"Black, White, Red"
Yes
I was about to say what Michael said. You have less work doing so...
色の順番が違うな。 白地に黒ライン、その後赤でしょ？
you did this all wrong.
Feel free to do it a different way for yours.
Yup... looks like shit.