Jason I've been geeking out watching all your videos. I am very new to this hobby, just bought Dlux kit RC crawler... It is simply amazing what they do... I appreciate all your knowledge!!
The basic idea of keeping the majority of vehicle weight as low as possible is one of the reasons I decided to build an MOA (Motor On Axle) rig as this reduces high up sprung weight due to not having motor, gearbox and drive shafts on the chassis. Steering servos are mounted on axle rather than on the chassis so all that the chassis carries is the receiver, ESC and battery. I also reduce the weight on the chassis when I intend to drive on terrain with steep ascents by using a smaller, lighter battery pack. The smaller, lighter battery is also lower capacity than the batteries I use for just running on trails to and from home but I have several small 850mA packs specifically for driving steep courses. Driving on trails to/from home I use large 2A and 2.85A LiIon and LiPo packs. When I get to the proper crawling area with very steep terrain I change to the smaller 850mA Li-Ion battery to reduce mass on the chassis effectively shifting the overall weight bias of the vehicle down and improving steep ascent and descent performance. You gotta love physics, when You get the rig just right it is amazing what can be achieved with good line choice and very gentle throttle control. Keeping it slow and low seems to work rather well. Have Fun !
@@BoomslangSuss Running the dual motors off single ESC from FTX ravine {Danchee ridgerock) with a small mod to adjust power delivery curve for better low speed modulation. I plan to upgrade to individual ESC per motor at some point in future, or might just keep this one as it is and build another with better electronics. MOA does look pretty odd but You soon get used to it. Keep up the good work. Have Fun!
I would love to hear your take on axle width. Pros and cons of things like +8 in the front and stock rear versus other configurations. I love how your videos break down the walls of complexity so even I can understand them. Thank you.
I run wide Capra axles with 11" track width (that's measured to the outside of the tread). Wider is more stable...BUT also wider, lol. Harder to squeeze through narrow passes and your center can get hung up more often. I think it comes down to personal preference and where you drive - simple at that. I can't think of a reason to run different widths front to back.
@@BoomslangSuss Thanks for responding. I tried a few variations myself and basically concluded it wasn't enough of a difference to really do it. Maybe there's benefit in comps getting that rear to squeeze by a gate but I didn't see enough improvement.
So then it’s important to have overdrive in the front then. Just think what if someone came out with a adjustable chassis & center of gravity what if you used hydraulic struts like on a hospital bed to basically hit a button & make the chassis longer or smaller I’m curious if it would even help.
Some overdrive is useful in the right circumstance, but it's a little overrated because your front wheels are often unweighted. For sure you could build automated adjustments. The closest thing I can think of is a suck down servo which some people have done. ruclips.net/video/wn4vBERXvGc/видео.html
Funny you should mention adjustable wheelbase, I am currently collection and making parts for an experimental rig that will have adjustable wheelbase. Servo controlled shock mounts and suck down winch have already been done but there are always trade offs between cost complexity, weight and performance. Many things can be done but often keeping it simple works out to be a better option. I am sure the adjustable wheelbase crawler project will work but I do not expect it to be super practical as it will add weight and complexity and will most likely only be really useful is a few specific situations.
Terrific video! Would being super light affect traction, I'm way into the 1/24 scale stuff and some times it seems i dont have enough weight to gain traction.
At a certain point, when you get too vertical, weight is pulling your backwards downhill MORE than it's pushing you into the slope for traction, so less overall weight becomes more important. On a 1/10 scale it's tough to build them too light. On my 1/24 I have them packed with brass because they start out too light.
If you’re looking at triangulation from the side, it’s not that important because anti squat doesn’t work at slow speeds. If you’re looking from the top, you need at least one set of your upper or lowerlinks triangulated for stability.
That all looks good on paper but I have found what works for ME is forwarded mounted skid droup suspension LCG as much as possible and lots of front end weight as possible brass beadlock rings or two wraps of car stick on wheel weight brass hexes and deluxe heavy portal covers all my rigs in the 7lb range and I can say never have I said I wish my rig was lighter ck out how heavy heavy works at RUclips dubbleportion Beleve me I get lots of flack about the weight in front until they see how they pull absolutely crazy lines and the # 1 compliant it weares out drive components if you are building a rig for longevity it probably won't be a line killer Of course I'm MY OPION You ave a awesome poized killmode I would love to see how mine would keep up with it thank for all your Information by far the best out there
Thank you my friend! I wouldn't argue with anything you said there - it sounds like a great set up. I'm headed toward 70% front bias to try it out which means my rig might exceed 6lbs. I never tried to build it super light, though I do use extremely light 17gm wheels, but for other reasons. I like metal parts and rear steer.
AARON GWIN SPECIALIZED JERSEY!!!! do you have that indestructible dt swiss EX471??? 😁😁 keep up the works!! tell us more about crawling and trail riding with RC truck! HAVE A NICE DAY! 😁😁👍👍
@@BoomslangSuss definitely hear any comp crawling advice from someone with MTB background! please talk about suspension! I remember reading sheldon brown in the past until now sometimes need to read peter verdone so yeah dont hold back because any rant totally worth to watch 👍
Great advice. Tank you! 🎉
Of course! Thanks for checking out the channel.
Excellent breakdown. Thanks for this!
🙏👊
Thank you for the 10/10 content!
Glad you enjoy it!
I am so glad I found your channel. It is fantastic thank you for doing this!
Of course! I’m enjoying doing it.
I had no idea Jason Chamberlain was into crawlers. Fellow bike industry, suspension nerd, and crawler nerd here. Small world.
Love it.
It’s always fun when simple math proves a concept.
I know, right!
Once again, I am happy that I payed attention in trigonometry😁
🥲 If not, I got you covered !
Jason I've been geeking out watching all your videos. I am very new to this hobby, just bought Dlux kit RC crawler... It is simply amazing what they do... I appreciate all your knowledge!!
Thank you! Keep on crawling.
Video aside, Gojira! 🤘🏻They put on a KILLER live show.
I saw them recently with Mastodon. Lots of flames!
The basic idea of keeping the majority of vehicle weight as low as possible is one of the reasons I decided to build an MOA (Motor On Axle) rig as this reduces high up sprung weight due to not having motor, gearbox and drive shafts on the chassis. Steering servos are mounted on axle rather than on the chassis so all that the chassis carries is the receiver, ESC and battery. I also reduce the weight on the chassis when I intend to drive on terrain with steep ascents by using a smaller, lighter battery pack. The smaller, lighter battery is also lower capacity than the batteries I use for just running on trails to and from home but I have several small 850mA packs specifically for driving steep courses. Driving on trails to/from home I use large 2A and 2.85A LiIon and LiPo packs. When I get to the proper crawling area with very steep terrain I change to the smaller 850mA Li-Ion battery to reduce mass on the chassis effectively shifting the overall weight bias of the vehicle down and improving steep ascent and descent performance. You gotta love physics, when You get the rig just right it is amazing what can be achieved with good line choice and very gentle throttle control. Keeping it slow and low seems to work rather well. Have Fun !
I love it. I may build a MOA someday but I’m not stoked about 2 motors and ESCs and they look kinda weird but I might come around.
@@BoomslangSuss Running the dual motors off single ESC from FTX ravine {Danchee ridgerock) with a small mod to adjust power delivery curve for better low speed modulation. I plan to upgrade to individual ESC per motor at some point in future, or might just keep this one as it is and build another with better electronics. MOA does look pretty odd but You soon get used to it. Keep up the good work. Have Fun!
Nice.
I would love to hear your take on axle width. Pros and cons of things like +8 in the front and stock rear versus other configurations. I love how your videos break down the walls of complexity so even I can understand them. Thank you.
I run wide Capra axles with 11" track width (that's measured to the outside of the tread). Wider is more stable...BUT also wider, lol. Harder to squeeze through narrow passes and your center can get hung up more often. I think it comes down to personal preference and where you drive - simple at that.
I can't think of a reason to run different widths front to back.
@@BoomslangSuss Thanks for responding. I tried a few variations myself and basically concluded it wasn't enough of a difference to really do it. Maybe there's benefit in comps getting that rear to squeeze by a gate but I didn't see enough improvement.
@@BoomslangSuss Gates.
Facts.
@alienateed4101 wider axles affect turning radius also. Not just squeezing through right spots.
Fantastic. Absolutely fantastic.
Many thanks!
Great vid again 👍🏻
Thanks again!
So then it’s important to have overdrive in the front then. Just think what if someone came out with a adjustable chassis & center of gravity what if you used hydraulic struts like on a hospital bed to basically hit a button & make the chassis longer or smaller I’m curious if it would even help.
Some overdrive is useful in the right circumstance, but it's a little overrated because your front wheels are often unweighted. For sure you could build automated adjustments. The closest thing I can think of is a suck down servo which some people have done.
ruclips.net/video/wn4vBERXvGc/видео.html
Funny you should mention adjustable wheelbase, I am currently collection and making parts for an experimental rig that will have adjustable wheelbase. Servo controlled shock mounts and suck down winch have already been done but there are always trade offs between cost complexity, weight and performance. Many things can be done but often keeping it simple works out to be a better option. I am sure the adjustable wheelbase crawler project will work but I do not expect it to be super practical as it will add weight and complexity and will most likely only be really useful is a few specific situations.
I look forward to seeing it!
can you talk about wheelbase and weight bias ;)
how this affects competition wb limits and turning to enter gates
Very cool info. What axles do you typically run on your rigs?
Vanquish or Dlux Capra. Wider knuckle width in the rear - same track width. I like a lot of scrub in the front and as little as possible in the rear.
Terrific video! Would being super light affect traction, I'm way into the 1/24 scale stuff and some times it seems i dont have enough weight to gain traction.
At a certain point, when you get too vertical, weight is pulling your backwards downhill MORE than it's pushing you into the slope for traction, so less overall weight becomes more important. On a 1/10 scale it's tough to build them too light. On my 1/24 I have them packed with brass because they start out too light.
@@BoomslangSuss That makes sense, I guess you need to find the right balance
Precisely. Perhaps someday I can estimate it mathematically.
Great topic! Can you please also make a video on links triangulation.😊
Triangulation for suspension performance or structural stiffness?
Hm...both maybe😅
If you’re looking at triangulation from the side, it’s not that important because anti squat doesn’t work at slow speeds. If you’re looking from the top, you need at least one set of your upper or lowerlinks triangulated for stability.
@@BoomslangSussthank you for the explanation!
That all looks good on paper but I have found what works for ME is forwarded mounted skid droup suspension LCG as much as possible and lots of front end weight as possible brass beadlock rings or two wraps of car stick on wheel weight brass hexes and deluxe heavy portal covers all my rigs in the 7lb range and I can say never have I said I wish my rig was lighter ck out how heavy heavy works at RUclips dubbleportion
Beleve me I get lots of flack about the weight in front until they see how they pull absolutely crazy lines and the # 1 compliant it weares out drive components if you are building a rig for longevity it probably won't be a line killer
Of course I'm MY OPION
You ave a awesome poized killmode I would love to see how mine would keep up with it thank for all your Information by far the best out there
Thank you my friend! I wouldn't argue with anything you said there - it sounds like a great set up.
I'm headed toward 70% front bias to try it out which means my rig might exceed 6lbs. I never tried to build it super light, though I do use extremely light 17gm wheels, but for other reasons. I like metal parts and rear steer.
@@BoomslangSuss too much front weight is contra productive at downhills ;)
So true. Sometimes I wish I had free wheeling front wheels so the backend wouldn’t out pace the front and flip over.
@@BoomslangSuss o it's possible next level
How about heavy front wheels. I had a Capra with Lead inside the lock rims and it crawled amazing.
It’s best to have the weight static on the knuckles. You can get the weight lower and it’s easier on your drivetrain because it’s not rotating weight.
Next Level Weight Hanger
ruclips.net/video/-rps27jtqgQ/видео.html
AARON GWIN SPECIALIZED JERSEY!!!!
do you have that indestructible dt swiss EX471???
😁😁
keep up the works!!
tell us more about crawling and trail riding with RC truck!
HAVE A NICE DAY! 😁😁👍👍
No, but I have the frame from the chainless winning run. 😉🥇😜
@@BoomslangSuss definitely hear any comp crawling advice from someone with MTB background!
please talk about suspension!
I remember reading sheldon brown in the past until now sometimes need to read peter verdone so yeah dont hold back because any rant totally worth to watch 👍
I’m working on a complete series. Stay tuned.
Front and low.....and as outwards as possible
Outwards is good too.
Servo winch down with esc n battery behing front wheels
Go touch some grass. These tests mean nothing inside and on paper lol.
You definitely got to prove it outside.