1963 Thunderbird Restoration Part 8 - Cruise-O-Matic Rebuild!
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- In todays episode, I rebuild all the subcomponents for the Cruise-O-Matic and then put the transmission back together! This video goes over quite a bit, so buckle up, this one will be an interesting one!
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Music by Mark Harvey:
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Hello Angell. Another fantastic video. Your video is a must have if someone is rebuilding a Cruise-O-Matic, or Merc-O-Matic transmission. Your videos are very clear and easy to watch.
George B
Thank you sir! I actually got a few comments on the last video from folks saying that they were going to use my videos to help them on their rebuilds. So I definitely wanted to make this video clear and maybe a little more in depth than I normally would have done it so I could help those folks out! I love taking complicated subjects and trying to simplify them!
Amazing job! It's always amazed me how complicated the inner workings of a transmission are. Way over my head but much respect to you for diving right into it! It's really exciting watching this bird get refreshed and come together!
Thank you sir! The engineering behind these transmissions is amazing, that is actually the main reason I wanted to go through it, I wanted to really know what makes these things work. The nice thing is that once you understand one, you understand them all! I’ve also been inside automatics from the 90’s, and all the same basic rules apply, valve body is the brains, servos control bands, clutch packs control sun gears, and planetary gears get you your different gear ratios. It is definitely a lot, but once you’ve tackled a transmission, then you feel like there’s nothing that can stop you!
Hey Angell, your a braver man than I am... but who knows I just may have to do that to my Cruse o matic. I just finished the steering gear and most of the vacuum lines in the car. Oh joy.... God bless.
Thank you sir! I am glad you were able to get your steering gear box rebuilt! I will be tackling that very soon, I just finished reinstalling the rear axle so the brakes and steering system is up next. Thanks for watching and God bless!
You did it! Awesome job, I would not tackle that job.
Thank you sir! Yeah I don’t blame you, even these old 3-speeds are quite involved to rebuild!
WELL I LOVE IT TOO NICE WORK NICK CAR THE BEST FROM HOLLAND AND ALL STAY SAVE
Thank you! I appreciate it!
I love your videos! Keep them coming!
Thank you sir! I got a lot more of them in the works!
love the videos
Thank you sir! I appreciate it!
It is a 3 speed dream.So much better than some modern automatics with variable line pressure and a computer to determine its functionality.I just love the Analog functionalities of older cars.With ZERO computer controlling.I mean...Do I really need a body control module?...lol..
Yep, it’s amazing what purely mechanical items were able to accomplish before the rise of computers and circuits! Thanks for watching!
I need to remove just my valve body to address a parking paw issues. Were there any ballbearings in the valve body that may fall out upon removal? I watched a different channel and he made it sound like there were ballbearings to watch out for. Thanks in advance and love the videos! Keep up the great work.
Thank you sir! The valve body pulls out as one unit, so nothing should fall out. Just pull out the three bolts holding it to the case, loosen the front servo so you can wiggle the tubes out, then you should be golden! In the whole valve body, I only found one check ball, and that’s behind a clip so it will be fine. The only thing that may slide out is the gear selector valve, but that can easily be slid back into place.
very informative Angell, One question, at 7;20 you said you lubbed up, slid your piston into the drum. I think you would be an outstanding romance novel author, I got a chubbie just watching the how-to video, I'd like to be on the cover of your first novel, I'd be straddling a C4 with the wind in my hair lookin like Fabio on a pass!!!!!! Lol
@@michaelmaher4328 I will keep this in mind when I start penning the Transmission Chronicles lol, thanks for watching!
@@AngellsGarage I’m looking forward to your next video, I appreciate your expertise doing what I need to get done as well, my 1966 mustangs 3rd gear isn’t working so I need to go thru the c4 cruise o matic .
What rebuild kit did you use to replace the seals, bushings, etc.?
I got my rebuild kit from Concours Parts and Accessories. Most Thunderbird parts suppliers and some transmission parts suppliers carry at least two kinds of kits, a "gasket" kit which has all the seals needed for a rebuild, and a standard rebuild, or "master" kit that also includes the frictions & steels for the clutch packs. I would highly recommend getting a kit that comes with the clutches because it is getting very hard to find places that sell just the clutches only. As far as bushings are concerned, bushings typically do not come in the kits and will need to be purchased separately. The only two bushings that are readily available are the tail shaft bushings that the drive shaft rides on and the front pump bushing that the torque convertor rides on. The other bushings are typically much harder to find because they are no longer remanufactured. Occasionally, some OEM bushings will pop up on eBay, so that is worth a check if you needed a specific bushing. In general, plan on reusing most of your original bushings. Also some parts, like the filter and the vacuum modulator, usually do not come in the kits, so keep that in mind if you are wanting to replace those too.
What kind of ATF will you use? Type F is what is specified, but after my rebuild i got mixed info on whether it should take standard atf with the modern clutches , etc..
I will be using Type F in the transmission. I did some research and arrived at the conclusion that as long as the clutches had been replaced with newer ones, that either Type F or Dexron/Mercon will work. That being said though, I decided to go with Type F because it prevents slippage in the clutches, which will provide firmer shifts. An old transmission rebuilder I knew told me that the firmer the shift, the better it is for clutch life. Also since I’ve already soaked the clutches, bands, and seals in Type F, I don’t want to cross contaminate it with a different fluid. I’ve heard mixed opinions about Type F compatibility with Dexron/Mercon, so I don’t want to take any chances.
@@AngellsGarage thanks. That is what im leaning toward as well. Actually now that i think about i did soak the clutches in type F and use it for assembly.. so i guess im committed.
Nice video. But why are you thightend the adjustment screw from the front band after the 10 in-lbs? In my manual stands that the adjustment screw is to loosen after this part. I want to adjust the front band, but some people say thighten and some loosen the screw. I dont know what to do…
Thank you sir! So you are right, the manual does say to loosen the screw 1 full turn after the 10 in-lb adjustment with the quarter inch block. I had read through somebody's rebuild of a small case Cruise-O-Matic where they had problems with their rebuild about a year later. Their problem was that the front band began slipping after they had followed the shop manual's adjustment instructions to loosen the full turn. To make a long story short, someone with many years of experience rebuilding the Cruise-O-Matics and even some old shop manuals from the 70's said to actually tighten the adjusting screw 3/4 - 1 additional turn after reaching the 10 in-lbs. After he made the adjustments, his Cruise-O worked great! While that rebuild was for a small case Cruise-O-Matic, I believe the adjustment process is the same for a medium case (I can't find anything specifying a difference between a medium case and small case adjustment).
In general, if you look online through forums and other videos about the band adjustment, I've found that there are two prevailing methods for adjusting these bands: The first is to tighten the adjusting screw to 10 in-lbs with the quarter inch block, then tighten the lock nut down (so no additional turning of the screw). The second is to tighten the adjusting screw to 10 in-lbs with the quarter inch block, then tighten the screw 3/4 - 1 additional turn, then tighten the lock nut. I decided to go with the tighten method just because I found that recommended more often. I did check the band after the adjustment and found that it was not dragging and that the clutch drum could spin freely. If the adjustment was too tight, the band would drag and the drum would not spin freely, which would cause the band to burn out. Likewise, if a band adjustment is too loose, then the front servo may not be able to fully apply pressure to the band, which could cause slipping and burning later in the transmission's life.
So what I would recommend is to either follow the method of using the quarter inch block, tightening to 10 in-lbs, then making no further adjustments, or the method of using the quarter inch block, tightening to 10 in-lbs, then tighten the addition 3/4 - 1 turn. Please do take my recommendation with a grain of salt though because I have not testing my transmission yet so I can't comment on how my adjustment did. That being said, I do think there is some wiggle room in this adjustment. Several people have used both of the adjustments I have recommended above with success, so I think either one would be fine. Good luck with your adjustment sir, I hope all goes well with it and feel free to post an update on how it goes!
Thank you for your quick answer Angell. I searched for hours in different videos and forums to get the right method for the adjustment. And i got nearly the same information as you. The one thightend the screw only with the quarter spacer and some other people added the extra thightend turn.
I only was confused because the shop manual says a different way about a few years.
I will test it with the 3/4 additional turn and will post my update.
But it will need some time because the half of my Motor is disassembled.
When i got my new timing chain and the gaskets, i will inform you.
@@miwa134 Awesome, sounds good! I hope it works out and good luck on your rebuild!
Hi Angell, tbird part question. I have a 63 factory ac car. I need to locate the center ac vent boot. Any idea where I can find one? All I can find ate the side fresh air boots. Thank you
My first place to check is always the Birds Nest, they got a ton of parts, including OEM stuff, you can try giving them a call and see if they have anything. If not, you can also check Thunderbird Headquarters or Larry’s Thunderbird & Mustang, they also got a lot of stuff. You can also check eBay, sometimes people list OEM parts on there for our Thunderbirds, just got to be lucky!