Excellent presentation,the thinking,the entire creative process-thank you Lennart,fantastic job! The entire project,making a post-vice from scratch,is a great idea,and Lennart's execution is wonderful. Thanks to everyone for this valuable informative video.
that is ingeniuous. thanks for sharing man. can i ask on the video where you put the rod in and twist it, does it have an exit hole so that you can make the rod with a longer section of thread?
I hope we vcan get this question to Lennart Hoffmann. He talks about the shrink of the nut when cooling down. How do you compensate for that towards the final product? I'd assume you have to oversize, however small or large, the thread on the spindle you use as a swedge. For the spindle I get it, If you start from a model spindle, you can make the counter swedge for spindles. That swedge will shrink cold as well, so the new spindles will be ever so slightly smaller than the original. Moving to the nut, that would then be even smaller... How to get it to fit properly?
hi, to compensate for the shrinkage that happens when forging the die itself, there is not much to be done except making the first screw slightly oversize. there are several ways to go from there. if you use the "master" screw as a "drift" to forge the internal threads the threads will shrink,but since the screw you forged in the die also has shrunk it all works out nicely. the other a little more brutal way is to just keep the screw "drift" inside the nut while it cools down preventing it from shrinking too much. this will easily get the drift stuck tho so to prevent this you have to keep the drift lubricated with graphite and keep it moving in and out the entire time, i did this by welding a nut to the back and using a big impact driver. the shrinkage at these sizes is bery small so if it turns out too tight a little valve grinding paste between the screw and nut quickly makes them fit. the first way using a slightly oversized master screw is preferred in my opinion greetings, Lennart
Hi Lennart, agreed that if you have a master and a master die made, a new spindle made in the die would fit a nut made on the master. How would you approach then a situation with just a broken nut? Would you replace both nut and spindle? Or try to prevent shrinking? These questions are hypothetical and purely out of interest 😅 not planning on doing this stuff anytime soon..
@@MafkACE to be honest if i had to repair a broken nut but the acrew was still good i would use a different method, probably making a new nut on the lathe or wrapping a new thread around the screw and then brazing it to a pipe to form a new nut
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Excellent presentation,the thinking,the entire creative process-thank you Lennart,fantastic job!
The entire project,making a post-vice from scratch,is a great idea,and Lennart's execution is wonderful.
Thanks to everyone for this valuable informative video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent! Nice demonstration!
that is ingeniuous. thanks for sharing man. can i ask on the video where you put the rod in and twist it, does it have an exit hole so that you can make the rod with a longer section of thread?
I hope we vcan get this question to Lennart Hoffmann.
He talks about the shrink of the nut when cooling down.
How do you compensate for that towards the final product?
I'd assume you have to oversize, however small or large, the thread on the spindle you use as a swedge.
For the spindle I get it,
If you start from a model spindle, you can make the counter swedge for spindles. That swedge will shrink cold as well, so the new spindles will be ever so slightly smaller than the original.
Moving to the nut, that would then be even smaller...
How to get it to fit properly?
hi, to compensate for the shrinkage that happens when forging the die itself, there is not much to be done except making the first screw slightly oversize. there are several ways to go from there. if you use the "master" screw as a "drift" to forge the internal threads the threads will shrink,but since the screw you forged in the die also has shrunk it all works out nicely. the other a little more brutal way is to just keep the screw "drift" inside the nut while it cools down preventing it from shrinking too much. this will easily get the drift stuck tho so to prevent this you have to keep the drift lubricated with graphite and keep it moving in and out the entire time, i did this by welding a nut to the back and using a big impact driver. the shrinkage at these sizes is bery small so if it turns out too tight a little valve grinding paste between the screw and nut quickly makes them fit. the first way using a slightly oversized master screw is preferred in my opinion
greetings, Lennart
Hi Lennart, agreed that if you have a master and a master die made, a new spindle made in the die would fit a nut made on the master.
How would you approach then a situation with just a broken nut? Would you replace both nut and spindle? Or try to prevent shrinking? These questions are hypothetical and purely out of interest 😅 not planning on doing this stuff anytime soon..
@@MafkACE to be honest if i had to repair a broken nut but the acrew was still good i would use a different method, probably making a new nut on the lathe or wrapping a new thread around the screw and then brazing it to a pipe to form a new nut
you forgot to put Sheese in the metal sandwich.
beautiful vises! @lennarth2018 are you online anywhere, are you producing these vises for sale?