This video has confirmed what I've always thought.....no matter how professional the video, how informative the video and how much effort goes into the production and editing, there will always be idiots on RUclips that give a video a thumbs down, no matter what !! Great video, very well put together and thank you for sharing.
Very informative video, thanks. What would be really helpful though is how to change all the bushings/ball joints on the rear suspension, including the rear subframe's and differential's bushings...and tools used for the job...these multilink suspensions get tricky to work on them sometimes, especially on the driveway 🤣😂🤣😂 Keep up the good work!
@@fcpeuro looking forward to another video showing rear upgrade R&R to new (M3) parts, too. Y'alls videos, whether discussing the what and how it works, or how to DIY on stands are great. When you do the surveys of the whole system, you have to appeal or talk to people at different levels of understanding, and the way you've shown the suspension parts, (and briefly mentioned what and why) works pretty well, I think, with a decently breezy style. I'm on the low end of the knowledge curve here, so if you ever do slow dow, discuss it in any greater depth, show the part from both ends installed and compare it again to one on the table - I'm sure old hands may find it slow, but I'll be learning even more.
On my 135i... the inner bolt is rusted solid to the bushing. How would you proceed ? Cutting the old bolt off ? When I try to turn the factory inner bolt I can feel the bushing wanting to tear. I was also thinking of using an impact drive on it. Also... why no use of anti seize on the shank of those new bolts ? Thanks... LOVE this video series!! Dackel approved.
Definitely try an impact before resorting to cutting anything off. You can use a little bit of anti seize if you are concerned about it rusting on again. Glad you love the video series, Dackel. Thanks for watching!
The ride will be more or less the same, but these arms are without a doubt much stronger than the factory. We are working on a kit with upgraded bushings for a bigger improvement in handing.
Hey FCP, at 10:42 you put it in ride height, but it is my understanding that BMW states, that this has to be achieved by loading the car with weights in specific places and specific weights, and then lowering it to the ground and then measuring the distance between the rim and the wheelhouse edge. Could you please say a couple words about this?
You sir are an outstanding salesman! Of course I want these now, the whole shebang. It looks like rear-registration of the suspension is not affected, so this installation will not affect alignment, correct? Order soon come! Thanks
so since the upgraded trailing arm is now not the weak point, wouldn't it deflect damage to other components which are more expensive to replace? Just curious
Yeah, he even says the stock arm is designed to bend and protect the fuel tank, then immediately says the new one won't bend in a crash, and risks puncturing the fuel tank 🤣
It's a great upgrade. You can take it one step further by replacing the rubber bushings with sealed monoballs, Lermforder p/n 3067901 or Meyle p/n 3147100005 (both available from FCP Euro).
I just snapped mine and my te shift came in the mail today! I also orders the 11 piece m3 control arms kit and sway bar links do you guys have anything installation videos of those parts as well?
Hi there- thank you for your demo help me great deal .you did Indeed made it look easy, for us here in UK its pish weather all bolts are rounded up and pretty rusty stuckfast fu........ing welded .still that's a pint to you from me if ever you find yourself in my local stab in.cheers
So I'm pretty sure I gotta do everything on the rear but can't go about doing everything at once. The rear left the camber goes negative (dispite an alignment) and eats away at the inner rim of the tyre. Where should I start to help the the tyre last until I can finish the up on everything in stages?
There is a bolt with an offset washer attached to it, turning that bolt will change the camber, it's best to have it set properly on an alignment rack. But, if you have excessive rear camper on one side that will wear the tire out, you can try turning that bolt to bring the camber back in for now.
Great tutorial. Thanks. Question: plan to upgrade front axle with M3 control arms on my 2011 335d. For the rear, what would make the better change, this Revshift piece or the M3 control arms? Thanks again.
You will feel more difference from the control arms. If you are changing the front control arms to M3 control arms, do the same in the rear. Then have the car aligned to M3 specifications.
Your videos are awesome! I Just upgraded my 335i CONV. with the m3 aluminum control arms. Then two days later my entire rear end stated vibrating like hell. Any help would be appreciated 🙏.
I waited over a month after ordering to get mine and they arrived in a raw silver finish, not powder coated black like in the video and on your website...
Hi, J Mullner. We're sorry about that! That is very strange, could you please email service@fcpeuro.com and possibly send them a picture of the part you received. We would love to make it right for you!
The bolt at the subframe on my e90 Awd is held on by a bracket that welded to the subframe.. so it’s impossible to get off without cutting.. Is this normal?
Hello realisaiahwake . Can I ask you about your solution to the bolt at the subframe for the rear trailing arm ? I’m also dealing with the issue on my E90 AWD . Did you cut the old bolt off ?
My understanding was that the trailing arm was designed like that as it creates crumple points in a accident it won’t snap and tear a hole in your fuel tank ???
@@jagtemwhich is hilarious, cos then he explains that the new one won't bend, won't protect the fuel tank, and that's somehow a good thing... and that it also won't provide any handling benefits 😂
Great vid. But...$500 for a part that will make very little difference to the handling as the bushes (which is what wear) are unchanged. Just saying...
Phil you are right that the bushings are the bigger pain point back there, but it is $250 for a pair of nicely CNC Machined Billet Aluminum and not $250 each atleast! We are looking at putting together a kit that would improve the bushings as well, which would pair nicely with these trailing arms. They're certainly an upgrade from the manufacturers originals, but for sure not a necessity! Thanks for watching Phil.
@@philthomas9396 that is indeed misleading, unfortunately it always says Price Each : ____ even when its on a kit product page (kits comprise multiple parts). I'm going to talk to the catalog team to see if we are able to make that a bit clearer on product pages with more than 1 item on them. Whereas Price Each:___ makes sense only for singular items. Thanks for bringing it to my attention! I did confirm though its $250 for both as a kit "CNC machined Billet 6061 T6 aluminum construction, includes two arms"
Bushings, control-arms, sta-bars, dampers and suspension geometry are not understood by 99.99% of back-yard mechanics. "Red Paint" is the primary upgrade. With a blind-swap drive-evaluation for this modification nobody would be able to tell a difference. Billet aluminum is the new "red paint." That said, FCP-E is a good company.
I don't understand why this new part is in any way superior to the original part? My lower arm has 170k miles on it and is still in 'as new condition'. If it wears i will replace the bushings for very little money. I think Sir, you were gifted these arms and thus feel the need to slag off the originals. Originals that were produced by BMW engineers who , i believe, know an awful lot more than your good self. Have a nice day.
That is a useless upgrade, nothing is flexing in stock arms. It's well known BMW OE suspension design is superb. The only ways to make it more superior is to go to full PU rubber transmission & engine mounts rather than liquid filled OE mounts and aluminum subframe insert to get rid of the rear end slushiness.
![[4K] Watch SpaceX Catch A Starship Rocket From Space!!! #IFT5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pIKI7y3DTXk/mqdefault.jpg)
This video has confirmed what I've always thought.....no matter how professional the video, how informative the video and how much effort goes into the production and editing, there will always be idiots on RUclips that give a video a thumbs down, no matter what !! Great video, very well put together and thank you for sharing.
Glad you liked the video!!
a couple of months ago i was able to do the water pump/thermostat from your diy on my 335i and everything has been smooth since :)
That's what we like to hear Adrian!
FCP Euro I believe these trailing arms are next on the list
One of these is bent on my E92 and I’m so glad you guys made this
Common fail point! Time for an upgrade 😁Glad the video helped!
Do you know how you managed to bend it
Just found this channel and I love it. Yall just saved me $300 on this repair tutorial alone. Kudos to y'all.
Is it difficult to change the trailing arm bushing's while you're doing this?
Tremendous tutorial . Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful ! I learned lots !!
Thanks mate . 👊🏼 🔥
Wow Gareth E92 M3 looks mint 👍
We tell him its bc he doesn't drive it enough. Stays mint under a car cover in the garage! 😜
Except for his brake rotors that are rusty. Drive that thing-make it sing!
Good video. I like all the good info you are giving.
Glad it was helpful, Gato!
Very informative video, thanks.
What would be really helpful though is how to change all the bushings/ball joints on the rear suspension, including the rear subframe's and differential's bushings...and tools used for the job...these multilink suspensions get tricky to work on them sometimes, especially on the driveway 🤣😂🤣😂
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, Bate! We will definitely add that to the list of DIYs. Stay tuned!
@@fcpeuro looking forward to another video showing rear upgrade R&R to new (M3) parts, too. Y'alls videos, whether discussing the what and how it works, or how to DIY on stands are great. When you do the surveys of the whole system, you have to appeal or talk to people at different levels of understanding, and the way you've shown the suspension parts, (and briefly mentioned what and why) works pretty well, I think, with a decently breezy style. I'm on the low end of the knowledge curve here, so if you ever do slow dow, discuss it in any greater depth, show the part from both ends installed and compare it again to one on the table - I'm sure old hands may find it slow, but I'll be learning even more.
This was super helpful. Did this install today in like 30 minutes. Appreciate the video.
Great to hear, Eric!!
Facts about the extra wheel protection under the car, it's been second nature for me 😂
Just ordered these with the monoball bushing replacement kit. How about a video for replacing those annoying bushings too?
On my 135i... the inner bolt is rusted solid to the bushing. How would you proceed ? Cutting the old bolt off ? When I try to turn the factory inner bolt I can feel the bushing wanting to tear. I was also thinking of using an impact drive on it. Also... why no use of anti seize on the shank of those new bolts ? Thanks... LOVE this video series!! Dackel approved.
Definitely try an impact before resorting to cutting anything off. You can use a little bit of anti seize if you are concerned about it rusting on again. Glad you love the video series, Dackel. Thanks for watching!
Great video, is there a noticeable improvement in ride or handling though? Enough to make it worth it?
Also, my E93 has about 57K miles on it. Would it be prudent to go ahead and replace the bushings while I’m at it?
wondering the same thing. i have 325i ‘06
The ride will be more or less the same, but these arms are without a doubt much stronger than the factory. We are working on a kit with upgraded bushings for a bigger improvement in handing.
@@fcpeuro hi, did you notice how much the bush moves when you torque the chassis bolt on your video?
@@samlee458 I think they updated they have a full set for under 700 I believe
Hey FCP, at 10:42 you put it in ride height, but it is my understanding that BMW states, that this has to be achieved by loading the car with weights in specific places and specific weights, and then lowering it to the ground and then measuring the distance between the rim and the wheelhouse edge. Could you please say a couple words about this?
You dont need to do all that fancy shit, just jack that wheel up to ride height and torque it down.
You sir are an outstanding salesman! Of course I want these now, the whole shebang. It looks like rear-registration of the suspension is not affected, so this installation will not affect alignment, correct? Order soon come! Thanks
so since the upgraded trailing arm is now not the weak point, wouldn't it deflect damage to other components which are more expensive to replace? Just curious
Hi, Alex. These tailing arms will not damage other components.
Yes, this is the consensus and bushings are the weak point.
That is a good question and observation. My plan is not to have a wreck.
Yeah, he even says the stock arm is designed to bend and protect the fuel tank, then immediately says the new one won't bend in a crash, and risks puncturing the fuel tank 🤣
Great to see you making vids again. I remember years ago seeing your E39 vids!
Gareth is back and better than ever!
Great video! Hope more are coming!
Glad you like the video, more to come!
I'm definitely planning to do this upgrade, the factory arms look like scrap metal.
It's a great upgrade. You can take it one step further by replacing the rubber bushings with sealed monoballs, Lermforder p/n 3067901 or Meyle p/n 3147100005 (both available from FCP Euro).
QUESTION My shocks are blown so im sitting low . Would your jacking up the knuckle method work no matter the ride height ? No matter the ride height ?
I just snapped mine and my te shift came in the mail today! I also orders the 11 piece m3 control arms kit and sway bar links do you guys have anything installation videos of those parts as well?
Revshift*
Yeah, it won't fatigue, it'll just puncture straight into the fuel tank..
Hi there- thank you for your demo help me great deal .you did Indeed made it look easy, for us here in UK its pish weather all bolts are rounded up and pretty rusty stuckfast fu........ing welded .still that's a pint to you from me if ever you find yourself in my local stab in.cheers
Cheers, Daniel!
looks much better but I keep in mind that the new ones will pinch the gas tank in case of a side impact..
Thank you for watching!
So I'm pretty sure I gotta do everything on the rear but can't go about doing everything at once. The rear left the camber goes negative (dispite an alignment) and eats away at the inner rim of the tyre. Where should I start to help the the tyre last until I can finish the up on everything in stages?
And more diy on the rear suspension coming soon? Please and thank you!!
There is a bolt with an offset washer attached to it, turning that bolt will change the camber, it's best to have it set properly on an alignment rack. But, if you have excessive rear camper on one side that will wear the tire out, you can try turning that bolt to bring the camber back in for now.
Do you need to get an alignment after this install?
Great tutorial. Thanks. Question: plan to upgrade front axle with M3 control arms on my 2011 335d. For the rear, what would make the better change, this Revshift piece or the M3 control arms? Thanks again.
You will feel more difference from the control arms. If you are changing the front control arms to M3 control arms, do the same in the rear. Then have the car aligned to M3 specifications.
@06:38 Yeah my shop installed the billet trailing arms backwards. The BMW M3 drove like a tank. Fixed it the next visit. #GarethKnows
will do this very soon
Let us know when you do, and how you like them!
Can you do this for the X drive vehicles? E91 328xi, etc?
afaik the xi models rear suspension is the same as non-xi, but i could be wrong
I just dun this today on my e90 i had to losen toe arm of as just couldn’t get it to line up
Anyone know if the BMW E90 M3 rear toe control arm fits the standard E90 335? Positioned at the Rear Lower Rearward of the axle.
No it doesnt. M3 is shorter.
Great info! thank you
Your videos are awesome! I Just upgraded my 335i CONV. with the m3 aluminum control arms. Then two days later my entire rear end stated vibrating like hell. Any help would be appreciated 🙏.
Starting with the toe arm wish is not compatible, maybe some alignment problem or bad bushings.
It's because your bolts are preloaded when torqued down in the air. You should torque down the bolts when the wheels are on and sitting on the ground.
@@elsoung that's physically impossible lol. You jack the wheel hubs to ride height and torque down. Same effect and the same thing they do at shops
Yes! Was waiting for this video!
Well here you have it Ben!
Do you know what length of bolt was supplied?
Sorry George, not something Gareth measured at the time of filming!
I waited over a month after ordering to get mine and they arrived in a raw silver finish, not powder coated black like in the video and on your website...
Hi, J Mullner. We're sorry about that! That is very strange, could you please email service@fcpeuro.com and possibly send them a picture of the part you received. We would love to make it right for you!
The bolt at the subframe on my e90 Awd is held on by a bracket that welded to the subframe.. so it’s impossible to get off without cutting.. Is this normal?
Hello realisaiahwake .
Can I ask you about your solution to the bolt at the subframe for the rear trailing arm ? I’m also dealing with the issue on my E90 AWD . Did you cut the old bolt off ?
My understanding was that the trailing arm was designed like that as it creates crumple points in a accident it won’t snap and tear a hole in your fuel tank ???
He literally says that in the first 30 seconds of the video...
@@jagtemwhich is hilarious, cos then he explains that the new one won't bend, won't protect the fuel tank, and that's somehow a good thing... and that it also won't provide any handling benefits 😂
E91 tho or not?
Pro Tip: Always give yourself ample work space.
Would this work on a 2006 Z4 Roadster?
The Z4 rear trailing arms are different, but we could check if Revshift makes a trailing arm similar to this for the Z4.
I thought ot was 100 ft-lbs not 100 Nm ?
Great vid. But...$500 for a part that will make very little difference to the handling as the bushes (which is what wear) are unchanged. Just saying...
Phil you are right that the bushings are the bigger pain point back there, but it is $250 for a pair of nicely CNC Machined Billet Aluminum and not $250 each atleast! We are looking at putting together a kit that would improve the bushings as well, which would pair nicely with these trailing arms. They're certainly an upgrade from the manufacturers originals, but for sure not a necessity! Thanks for watching Phil.
@@fcpeuro You need to amend your website. It clearly states "Price EACH: $249.99"
@@philthomas9396 that is indeed misleading, unfortunately it always says Price Each : ____ even when its on a kit product page (kits comprise multiple parts). I'm going to talk to the catalog team to see if we are able to make that a bit clearer on product pages with more than 1 item on them. Whereas Price Each:___ makes sense only for singular items. Thanks for bringing it to my attention! I did confirm though its $250 for both as a kit "CNC machined Billet 6061 T6 aluminum construction, includes two arms"
@@philthomas9396 you must a real joy at parties....yes each "pair" your the only person I ever heard of not understanding that
Bushings, control-arms, sta-bars, dampers and suspension geometry are not understood by 99.99% of back-yard mechanics. "Red Paint" is the primary upgrade. With a blind-swap drive-evaluation for this modification nobody would be able to tell a difference. Billet aluminum is the new "red paint." That said, FCP-E is a good company.
I don't understand why this new part is in any way superior to the original part? My lower arm has 170k miles on it and is still in 'as new condition'. If it wears i will replace the bushings for very little money.
I think Sir, you were gifted these arms and thus feel the need to slag off the originals. Originals that were produced by BMW engineers who , i believe, know an awful lot more than your good self.
Have a nice day.
That is a useless upgrade, nothing is flexing in stock arms. It's well known BMW OE suspension design is superb. The only ways to make it more superior is to go to full PU rubber transmission & engine mounts rather than liquid filled OE mounts and aluminum subframe insert to get rid of the rear end slushiness.
Lol okay bud