CNC Router Gantry Plates
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this episode I am machining new beefier aluminum side plates for my CNC Router Gantry.
The challenge will be to drill the 8mm holes, this is something you would normally not do with a spindle and it is an operation that I have not attempted before. The sides are close to 25mm (1") thick so slotting is difficult and chip evacuation is mandatory to keep chips from welding to the cutting edge.
Nice presentation! Suspense! Yeah, - nothing broke - brilliant job!
You should also consider trying CrownNorge (Dry Cut) Series (2, 4 and 6mm). I've been using them since about 2017 and love them to bits. Most of the time I use no lubricant with them and can't complain either. I also have the 4-in-1...but use Datron mainly for Acrylic work...Keep it up :)
Thank you for the Tipp, I will check them out right now I have never heard of them.
My DIY machine does 20mm depth drilling ops with 500mm/min.
No pecking... Straight plunge... You should try more agressive plunge feedrate. It gets a lot better 👍🏼
Well I fail with everything above 4mm diameter. Or maybe I need a carbite drill that can handle the higher rpm
You do excellent work.
Thanks Marcus
A 4mm drill will perform well at 0.06mm per revolution in aluminum when using a G83 cycle (i.e., peck drilling) with a 6mm initial step and 3mm increments for chip clearing. At 15,000 RPM the feed rate should be about 950mm per minute. Of course, proper feed rates really only matter in a production environment where reducing cycle times is the difference in being competitive and going out of business.
I think up to 4 mm the world is still ok … 5 in shallow depth 6 gets ugly with vibration. Thank you for the parameters I copied them and will give that a go in my next project
I didn't think that drill bits were supposed to be held in collets? I am probably very wrong on this 🤷
Nothing wrong with using a collet the problem is paring an incorrect diameter collet with a drill. Drill bit shanks do not come in a standard like router bits or endmills. So this can be an issue but a collet has greater holding power than a typical chuck.
Super Arbeit
Zumindest passt alles
What type of tape do you use? I have that exact glue, but haven't had much luck with the Scotch Blue Sharp Lines painters tape I use. It always comes loose.
I use either the “rough surface” or the “extra adhesion” one green or orange tape. Use Alkohol and wipe the surfaces down. Use some kind of blond edge tool to force the tape down or better yet a roller
@@JBWorx Thank you. I will look into those tapes.
No problem thx for reaching out.
@@JBWorx Acetone works better than alcohol to remove oils from surfaces (including oils left by fingertips).
FWIW, nothing I've used worked better than 1,1,1-trichloroethane (aka. methyl chloroform). However, it is not only regulated by the Montreal Protocol for being an ozone-depleting compound but it also causes symptoms of ethanol intoxication from short-term exposure and serious health issues with long term-term exposure.
I do use acetone for glue joints i.e. epoxy but don’t really like the smell. Same counts for MEK or Xylene. So for just getting the tape to stick adequately alcohol works well. The large surface is what makes it work in most cases. Sometimes too good lol 😆
I want to see the Z plate work, where is the video? 😁🙂
Stay tuned ... I am editing at this very moment. I lost some audio and try to make it work. Thank you for being interested in my content.
@@JBWorx I really like your way of doing CNC related things.
You are on the exact level of quality I want to (and can) achieve. At least that is my hope 😅
I'm currently machining my Z assembly on my recently built desktop CNC, and it's very similar to that one I saw in your video 😎
Bring it fast 🤭😁
@@JBWorx Where is it? 😅🤭