I have 2016 XC60 T5 2.5 which received the piston ring replacement under warranty in Apr/May this year. It now runs great, no issues with driving at all. However, when I park the car after driving almost any distance, a loud popping sound occurs roughly every 30 seconds or so for 5 - 10 minutes. It also does that when I first start driving for the first few miles, though not as noticeable as when it's parked in the garage. I've put about 2K miles on it since the piston ring replacement 2 months ago. I took it back to the dealer who contacted Volvo engineering. Volvo engineering told them they were aware of the problem, that it's due to the material used in the piston ring replacement, that they are working on a fix, but that they don't presently have one. My car can't be the only T5 with this problem if it's due to the materials used and I've like to know if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks!
I have a 2014 S60 T5 FWD with the 2.5T engine. When I got the car in November of 2022, it was burning around 1-1.5 quarts every 1,000 miles. I checked the oil weekly and topped off accordingly. I took a…. different route to solve this problem. I replaced the piston rings myself and did so using Volvos VIDA software to make sure I had everything right. I did this in July-August 2024 at around 146K miles. It took me about 4 weeks and about $1K in parts and $3K in special tools and supplies. The engine now appears to run better but I do still have some kinks to iron out. There is a very slight knocking sound on start up but it doesn’t stick around for more than a couple seconds and I don’t hear it again. It’s very subtle and I only hear it in the cabin. I believe it’s due to the valves being just a tad too long when I had the head serviced. Not a big deal. I am also 675 miles into my oil change after doing the initial tests and I’m starting to notice the oil level drop again. It’s not nearly as much as it was but it’s still worth noting. Personally I wouldn’t recommend this service to someone who isn’t mechanically inclined and who hasn’t done their homework. It is a challenging and precise process but I was able to personally inspect all parts in the engine, verify every torque, and test it all myself. I tend to not take dealers word for it when it comes to this kind of stuff so I ultimately decided to do it myself and so far, it seems to have paid off!
So far my car has been running good and has zero oil consumption issues. The entire piston with rings was replaced in my case. I think that's why the engine has more of a buzzy feel to it than what it used to. I don't like it but so far it hasn't caused any issues other than annoying me. You can't use the new style rings in the old pistons. The slot for the oil control ring isn't designed to use the "new" or redesigned oil ring. If you are seeing oil consumption again after replacing those rings, something didn't go well or you used the wrong rings for the piston style. I would have a leak down and compression test performed on the cylinders and use a borescope to see if you have any cylinder scoring just to make sure there were no new issues created but if you didn't replace the pistons also (there are new pistons with the oil control ring slot that was also changed to accommodate the new oil control ring), and used the new style rings, then I'm not sure what will happen. I can't imagine it will be good though.
I definitely agree here. From what I gathered from talking to numerous Volvo Techs and in the VIDA software, it never mentioned suggested the use of new pistons and updated rings with the inline 5 and 6 engines. I was told that the new ring and piston design was only being used for the inline 4 engines. So I used the original ring design. Update from around 2 months and 2K miles later, I haven’t noticed any sort of oil burning since the service. The oil level went down because I think maybe all of the oil hadn’t drained out of the head. I think I’m in the clear!!
Hello, I have a 2016 Volvo s60 T6 2.0 engine. My issue with the excessive oil consumption was so bad that the engine had to be replaced due to scorching inside the cylinder walls. All was done under the warranty work, however getting to that point with the dealership was a huge headache back and forth and they said it was something else that the engine would never get that bad from the oil consumption. Long story short they contacted Volvo for engine replacement approval, and it was approved. My car was in the dealership shop from October 25, 2023, to March 25, 2024. A very long time!! I didn't get a loaner until early December. I now have had the car back for over a month and I have concerns as well. My concerns are different from yours though. I feel like the new engine isn't calibrated or broken in since installation with my transmission, turbocharger, and supercharger that come with the T6 setup. I was also charged $827 when I picked up the car for parts like a belt and muffler and mounting things which I felt was dumb but whatever. My second concern is the car says it is getting 29 mpg but when I calculate my own mpg I get 27 mpg. I do mostly highway driving it should get 30 mpg like it used to before. I am told the engine has a new 2 year warranty on it but I don't know how far that will get since they charge for stupid parts that they say are unrelated to warranty work and they like to avoid faults. I also might keep the car for now but I have an ugly feeling as well.
the reason they made low friction piston rings was due to emissions laws passed in 2015. so now the new engine that doesnt burn oil has regular piston rings that are going to get you less mpg. but now it wont burn oil. i would keep the car, that t6 engine is good.
I have a 2015.5 XC60 (81,000 miles) with the 2.0L T6 engine. My engine was consuming excessive oil so I took it to my dealer to have the consumption test performed last fall. It failed the test but as you mentioned, my local dealer said it would probably be a year before the pistion job could be performed due to lack of certified staff. So Im still looking at fall 2024 at the earliest since there are apparently 40+ customers already ahead of me for this piston service. For oil changes I always used Castrol Syntec but after the dealer consumption test, I did a engine flush with a can of BG Engine Restoration and replaced oil with Royal Purple 0W20. So far the oil consumption seems to be greatly reduced and my MPG's have gone up slightly so I might skip the piston job. Good luck, I hope you get the engine gremlins sorted!
I got a letter notice the recall was redacted. My dealership in Carlsbad / San Diego County let me do the test and then said they need the car for 50 days to get the work done. ( no rental, or loaner offered ) 2016 v60 T5. I didn't do the recall, and now they removed it. They won't accept it from the test. That was around 78K, I got the spark plugs and coil packs done then, brakes too. Now I'm at 104K and have a check engine light. Orielly auto parts said it was the gas cap. I got a new gas cap, today. I'm not seeing the check engine light Go Away. I'll check back on replies if you have suggestions.
V40 T3 2015 (model 2016), since replacing the pistons, I've driven about 1300km. I also experience vibration, but I feel like the more kilometers I drive, the softer the vibrations become. However, I realize that the balancing shafts may not be counteracting the vibrations due to the new pistons, as even a slight shift in their center of mass up or down can affect it. The engine shows no faults, but during acceleration at low RPMs, I sometimes feel a jerking in the drive. The mechanic suspects it might be a fuel pump issue.
My 2000 V70 is a totally different animal, but is silky smooth from idle to redline. I can be near full throttle in 4th gear at 1700 rpm and it's just purring along with no discernable vibration. It does have quite a high idle though, at 850 rpm. If it ever drops below 850 for any reason (as it can just before coming to stop after downshifting to 1st) it does start vibrating quite harshly, but beyond 850 - just marvelous driving. Miraculously my engine burns no oil, although the timing cover is seeping and will need to be addressed soon. The issues I'm having with this car are a lack of power at high rpm (4500+) where the engine just doesn't seem to breath well, and I have a little vibration at 70-75 mph that feels like a bent wheel but it's not bad enough to worry about right now. I would love to get 200k miles out of my V70 but I don't know if the automatic transmission will get there.
I think the 2000 and 2001 were the ones with potential transmission issues. Just keep the fluid changed, and filter if it has one and that should help some. If you're pulling hard everywhere else but in the 4500+ range, then you could just have worn spark plugs. Weak coil packs could cause troubles but less likely. Fuel injectors that have a poor spray pattern could cause troubles too, and explain some low RPM vibration. Clogged exhaust, like a partially clogged Catalytic converter could also cause issues by creating a restriction. That will definitely rob power. Hopefully you can get it figured out. My 2009 2.5 was also silky smooth. I loved the way that engine sounded.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Here's the thing though. The spark plugs were replaced with genuine OEM plugs 20k miles ago, and that didn't improve or make things worse. I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced 15k miles ago, no change. I had the fuel injectors forcibly cleaned at the same time, no change. I had the catalytic converter inspected by 3 different shops, all 3 said it had no restriction. The fact that it runs as smoothly as it does with no error codes tells me to leave the coil packs alone. The moment one starts acting up, they're all getting replaced. I actually did clean the MAF sensor at one point, and that did make a difference, but only below 2500 rpm. I've essentially given up trying to find the issue. I know something's wrong with it, the shops I've taken it to agree that something's wrong with it, but until it gets diagnosably worse, it'll stay wrong. As for the transmission, it has no filter but the fluid was changed at 32k and 65k, and I already have the fluid to change it again at 97k, which I will reach in about 6-8 months.
At current I have the dreaded P04d900 'code, Closed loop EGR control, limit reached-low flow detected' & P00BC 00, Mass air flow (inactive). Egr valve, cooler and emap pipe have been replaced, car runs fine, even with limp mode, also mass air flow is working when I plug my obd scanner in
How many miles on your volvo? Maybe sensors are just dying out, and hoses are drying up like he had at the 12:30 ? I had just a gas code. So I'm on the search for any other issues.
It wasn't by VIN number, it was by engine number. Anything prior to 1501327 is potentially affected. This number should be located on the top of the engine on the PCV cover, preceded by the engine model number (like B4204T12)
On top of this. A paper out of MIT in 2005 proposed replacing the standard oil ring with a 'Low Tension Oil Control Ring. Most manufacturers went with this only to find that the expected benefits such as lower engine friction leading to better economy and reduced hamrful emissions, only lasted for about 50,000 kms or until the oil ring got choked with unburned carbon. This dragged more oil up into the combustion chamber greatly exacerbating the problem. From what I can gather, most manufacturers redesigned the oil rings and a better solution introduced in 2016 engines. But imagine all those poor people who were unaware of these problems and paid in full. A bigger scam than Volkswagen emissions.
The hissing souns is the turbo boost pressure control solenoid. How do I know? Because I broke mine on accident somehow. The hissing sound is the sound coming out of the loose hose which acts as input to the solenoid. $90 brand new, the plastic cracks easily on the nipple for the hose.
@EverythingLLCompany you have a loose hose somewhere. Get close to the engine bay and listen closely. It's probably a top vaccum line because the only way they hiss is then they are very thin.
I have the same oil burning issue, however Volvo stated that I was outside the extended warranty and not willing to replace the pistons. I love the car however, this will be my last Volvo since they refuse to fix the engine.
My partners Volvo V40 suffered the same problem with the oil rings in the T4 engine. However here in Australia, Volvo's Customer Service are exceedingly unhelpful, even though the Australian Consumer Law (ACL) say that they should fix it for free. Volvo Customer Service, here in Australia, have an unfortunate reputation. So I took my problem to two government bodies, the ACCC and ACT Fair Trading. Volvo stonewalled them too. An excuse was that they provided the parts and so my partner should pay for labour. "Besides", they said, "the car had done 114,000 kms". They chose to ignore that we had been complaining about excessive oil use from 40,000 kms. And there was a settled Class Action in the US leading to them extending the warranties. ACL even describes this very thing as a Major Fault. "No it isn't!", says Volvo. Sounds like Monty Python. The upshot is now that we go to court. We are encouraged by the ACCC and ACT Fair Trading.
Here in Brazil, I have a Volvo XC60 2016 T5, 95.00km, and the same issue (oil consumption). I haven't take it to the dealer yet, but I heard form other owners that Volvo won't fix it.
I think the only years affected by the excessive oil consumption were 2013 thru 2016 models. I don't have any experience with the recharge models at all. If your S60 is doing fine and not consuming oil then you are probably OK, especially if you are over the 100,000 mile mark with it.
So far so good. I got no advice on when to change the oil afterwards so about 2000 miles I decided I didn't feel good about waiting any longer after a major service. I can't get the 0W-20 Volvo Spec Castrol oil in the US, so I ordered the oil change kit from FCP Euro that uses the LiquiMoly Volvo Spec 0W-20. I'm on about 4,500 on that oil change, with 500 to go before I will change it. I don't like to go the 10,000 miles Volvo sets for these cars. I feel that's too much. With 4,500 miles on this oil change, so far it still says oil level is OK. I check weekly just as a precaution. I am going to take a sample of the oil when I change it and send it off to be analyzed to see if they have any indication of wear. I love this car and hope to have it a long time, but I am looking for a backup vehicle as well, just in case!
@@FloydNashFixItDad Amazing success story! On mine a 2012 S60 T4 with the B4164T engine oil consumption has gone in the last 15,000 Km (from 115,000 Km to 130,000 Km) to 1 liter per 1,000 Km. Here, in Costa Rica where I live, we are orphan Volvo owner's. There's not even a parts breakdown for this 1.6 liter Ford Sigma Europe engine! Worse, no extended warranties, no service recalls, no nothing! So I wanted to know if to embark in this process of replacing pistons and rings was going to be a total waste of money. Perhaps not. On my dad's 1990 Toyota Corolla I had a "ring job" performed because the punny little 1.3 liter engine was smoking oil. The ring job was performed and it eliminated the smoke but not the oil consumption. Which in a non catalist vehicle was no problem. But not on my Volvo! It will certainly kill the catalyst in no time. On the tropics, the dealer recommended SAE 10W/30. I started using it and replacing the oil every 5,000 Km or 6 months and filter every 10,000 Km or yearly. I imported the filter from Europe a MANN W7008. Then at 90,000 Km of ownership the engine started developing all kinds of oil leaks. The valve advance solenoids, the oil-gas separator, then the thermostat housing, then a Y contraption that delivers water to somewhere, etc. I even had it replaced on my means and on my research the core of the turbo. As the intercooler piping was seeping motor oil. This turbo core part that costed a song, but the labor to replace it was hefty! The punny little Costarican market knows and punishes these otherwise sound vehicles! At 120,000 Km I started using SAE 15W/40 to no avail as it has the same rate of consumption of 1 liter per 1,000 Km. Tomorrow I will have a customer of my printing shop bring a boroscope to check the cylinder sleeves for scratches. If all is well, I will import the pistons and rings from England and find a reputable tech to perform the job and keep the Volvo for some 10 years more, I hope. When new, these S60's costed here in Costa Rica US$60,000. I bought mine in 2016 for US$26,000 with 52,000 Km on the odometer. Today, as is, where is, it will bring short of $5,000. There are quite a few with transmission issues. The MPS6 is the same Ford Powershift only with the wet clutch. I had mine overhauled after two weeks of the warranty expiring. Luckily with the mention of the phrase "hidden defect" struck a chord in the service department and they agreed to split the US$4,000 invoice... This transmission, a double clutch has been quite problematic on a mountainous country with stop and go traffic! On the other hand, my 1995 GMC Jimmy SLS with 350,000 Km burns gas, ok but oil consumption is negligible at 1/2 quart per 5,000 Km. It's a good example of American iron! Thanks for your input!
Volvo extended their warranty to 8 years or 100,000 miles to cover this issue. If yours is within that range, get it to a dealership IMMEDIATELY and make them aware. As long as you start the process before time runs out, you should be fine. The process took a year for me but since I started it within that period, it was fully covered.
I have the "special" 2013 2.0 5 cylinder D4 model. (Not the 2.4 5cyl aka d5) I hear alot of differences between those and the 4 cyl VEA engines which were introduced in 2014 to cut emmisions etc via going to the 4cyl turbo. Hope you get it sorted Floyd. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_D5_engine#D3
Great video, I love these cars too they are rare. My S60 e drive has the old style pistions also, & they clog up with soot causing it to burn 0.5 oil every 400 miles. I bought mine private used so no warranty. Apart from that car runs sweet. I am going to use engine flushes to see if that reduces the oil usage and cleans out the soot each time I service the car, along with using 0w-20 oil as recommended by the manufacturer. Will see how I get on, if not then it looks like I will have to at some point look about changing the rings on the pistions.
@user-uz9ow4ub5h look up videos on using B12 Chemtool to clean clogged oil rings. Audi and others suffer from the same thing and apparently the Chemtool clean can work pretty well.
I’m in the same situation 😮 Had it home 2 days and got the red triangle 🔺. Shaking and vibrating. Just as worried.
I have 2016 XC60 T5 2.5 which received the piston ring replacement under warranty in Apr/May this year. It now runs great, no issues with driving at all. However, when I park the car after driving almost any distance, a loud popping sound occurs roughly every 30 seconds or so for 5 - 10 minutes. It also does that when I first start driving for the first few miles, though not as noticeable as when it's parked in the garage. I've put about 2K miles on it since the piston ring replacement 2 months ago. I took it back to the dealer who contacted Volvo engineering. Volvo engineering told them they were aware of the problem, that it's due to the material used in the piston ring replacement, that they are working on a fix, but that they don't presently have one. My car can't be the only T5 with this problem if it's due to the materials used and I've like to know if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks!
I have a 2014 S60 T5 FWD with the 2.5T engine. When I got the car in November of 2022, it was burning around 1-1.5 quarts every 1,000 miles. I checked the oil weekly and topped off accordingly. I took a…. different route to solve this problem. I replaced the piston rings myself and did so using Volvos VIDA software to make sure I had everything right. I did this in July-August 2024 at around 146K miles. It took me about 4 weeks and about $1K in parts and $3K in special tools and supplies.
The engine now appears to run better but I do still have some kinks to iron out. There is a very slight knocking sound on start up but it doesn’t stick around for more than a couple seconds and I don’t hear it again. It’s very subtle and I only hear it in the cabin. I believe it’s due to the valves being just a tad too long when I had the head serviced. Not a big deal. I am also 675 miles into my oil change after doing the initial tests and I’m starting to notice the oil level drop again. It’s not nearly as much as it was but it’s still worth noting.
Personally I wouldn’t recommend this service to someone who isn’t mechanically inclined and who hasn’t done their homework. It is a challenging and precise process but I was able to personally inspect all parts in the engine, verify every torque, and test it all myself. I tend to not take dealers word for it when it comes to this kind of stuff so I ultimately decided to do it myself and so far, it seems to have paid off!
So far my car has been running good and has zero oil consumption issues. The entire piston with rings was replaced in my case. I think that's why the engine has more of a buzzy feel to it than what it used to. I don't like it but so far it hasn't caused any issues other than annoying me.
You can't use the new style rings in the old pistons. The slot for the oil control ring isn't designed to use the "new" or redesigned oil ring. If you are seeing oil consumption again after replacing those rings, something didn't go well or you used the wrong rings for the piston style. I would have a leak down and compression test performed on the cylinders and use a borescope to see if you have any cylinder scoring just to make sure there were no new issues created but if you didn't replace the pistons also (there are new pistons with the oil control ring slot that was also changed to accommodate the new oil control ring), and used the new style rings, then I'm not sure what will happen. I can't imagine it will be good though.
I definitely agree here. From what I gathered from talking to numerous Volvo Techs and in the VIDA software, it never mentioned suggested the use of new pistons and updated rings with the inline 5 and 6 engines. I was told that the new ring and piston design was only being used for the inline 4 engines. So I used the original ring design.
Update from around 2 months and 2K miles later, I haven’t noticed any sort of oil burning since the service. The oil level went down because I think maybe all of the oil hadn’t drained out of the head. I think I’m in the clear!!
Hello, I have a 2016 Volvo s60 T6 2.0 engine. My issue with the excessive oil consumption was so bad that the engine had to be replaced due to scorching inside the cylinder walls. All was done under the warranty work, however getting to that point with the dealership was a huge headache back and forth and they said it was something else that the engine would never get that bad from the oil consumption. Long story short they contacted Volvo for engine replacement approval, and it was approved. My car was in the dealership shop from October 25, 2023, to March 25, 2024. A very long time!! I didn't get a loaner until early December. I now have had the car back for over a month and I have concerns as well. My concerns are different from yours though. I feel like the new engine isn't calibrated or broken in since installation with my transmission, turbocharger, and supercharger that come with the T6 setup. I was also charged $827 when I picked up the car for parts like a belt and muffler and mounting things which I felt was dumb but whatever. My second concern is the car says it is getting 29 mpg but when I calculate my own mpg I get 27 mpg. I do mostly highway driving it should get 30 mpg like it used to before. I am told the engine has a new 2 year warranty on it but I don't know how far that will get since they charge for stupid parts that they say are unrelated to warranty work and they like to avoid faults. I also might keep the car for now but I have an ugly feeling as well.
the reason they made low friction piston rings was due to emissions laws passed in 2015. so now the new engine that doesnt burn oil has regular piston rings that are going to get you less mpg. but now it wont burn oil. i would keep the car, that t6 engine is good.
I have a 2015.5 XC60 (81,000 miles) with the 2.0L T6 engine. My engine was consuming excessive oil so I took it to my dealer to have the consumption test performed last fall. It failed the test but as you mentioned, my local dealer said it would probably be a year before the pistion job could be performed due to lack of certified staff. So Im still looking at fall 2024 at the earliest since there are apparently 40+ customers already ahead of me for this piston service. For oil changes I always used Castrol Syntec but after the dealer consumption test, I did a engine flush with a can of BG Engine Restoration and replaced oil with Royal Purple 0W20. So far the oil consumption seems to be greatly reduced and my MPG's have gone up slightly so I might skip the piston job. Good luck, I hope you get the engine gremlins sorted!
I got a letter notice the recall was redacted.
My dealership in Carlsbad / San Diego County let me do the test and then said they need the car for 50 days to get the work done. ( no rental, or loaner offered )
2016 v60 T5.
I didn't do the recall, and now they removed it.
They won't accept it from the test.
That was around 78K, I got the spark plugs and coil packs done then, brakes too.
Now I'm at 104K and have a check engine light.
Orielly auto parts said it was the gas cap.
I got a new gas cap, today.
I'm not seeing the check engine light Go Away.
I'll check back on replies if you have suggestions.
V40 T3 2015 (model 2016), since replacing the pistons, I've driven about 1300km. I also experience vibration, but I feel like the more kilometers I drive, the softer the vibrations become. However, I realize that the balancing shafts may not be counteracting the vibrations due to the new pistons, as even a slight shift in their center of mass up or down can affect it. The engine shows no faults, but during acceleration at low RPMs, I sometimes feel a jerking in the drive. The mechanic suspects it might be a fuel pump issue.
My 2000 V70 is a totally different animal, but is silky smooth from idle to redline. I can be near full throttle in 4th gear at 1700 rpm and it's just purring along with no discernable vibration. It does have quite a high idle though, at 850 rpm. If it ever drops below 850 for any reason (as it can just before coming to stop after downshifting to 1st) it does start vibrating quite harshly, but beyond 850 - just marvelous driving. Miraculously my engine burns no oil, although the timing cover is seeping and will need to be addressed soon. The issues I'm having with this car are a lack of power at high rpm (4500+) where the engine just doesn't seem to breath well, and I have a little vibration at 70-75 mph that feels like a bent wheel but it's not bad enough to worry about right now. I would love to get 200k miles out of my V70 but I don't know if the automatic transmission will get there.
I think the 2000 and 2001 were the ones with potential transmission issues. Just keep the fluid changed, and filter if it has one and that should help some. If you're pulling hard everywhere else but in the 4500+ range, then you could just have worn spark plugs. Weak coil packs could cause troubles but less likely. Fuel injectors that have a poor spray pattern could cause troubles too, and explain some low RPM vibration. Clogged exhaust, like a partially clogged Catalytic converter could also cause issues by creating a restriction. That will definitely rob power. Hopefully you can get it figured out. My 2009 2.5 was also silky smooth. I loved the way that engine sounded.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Here's the thing though. The spark plugs were replaced with genuine OEM plugs 20k miles ago, and that didn't improve or make things worse. I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced 15k miles ago, no change. I had the fuel injectors forcibly cleaned at the same time, no change. I had the catalytic converter inspected by 3 different shops, all 3 said it had no restriction.
The fact that it runs as smoothly as it does with no error codes tells me to leave the coil packs alone. The moment one starts acting up, they're all getting replaced.
I actually did clean the MAF sensor at one point, and that did make a difference, but only below 2500 rpm. I've essentially given up trying to find the issue. I know something's wrong with it, the shops I've taken it to agree that something's wrong with it, but until it gets diagnosably worse, it'll stay wrong.
As for the transmission, it has no filter but the fluid was changed at 32k and 65k, and I already have the fluid to change it again at 97k, which I will reach in about 6-8 months.
At current I have the dreaded P04d900 'code, Closed loop EGR control, limit reached-low flow detected' & P00BC 00,
Mass air flow (inactive).
Egr valve, cooler and emap pipe have been replaced, car runs fine, even with limp mode, also mass air flow is working when I plug my obd scanner in
How many miles on your volvo?
Maybe sensors are just dying out, and hoses are drying up like he had at the 12:30 ?
I had just a gas code. So I'm on the search for any other issues.
Floyd… is there a specific VIN number to find out if my engine is affected??? Thank you?
It wasn't by VIN number, it was by engine number. Anything prior to 1501327 is potentially affected. This number should be located on the top of the engine on the PCV cover, preceded by the engine model number (like B4204T12)
On top of this. A paper out of MIT in 2005 proposed replacing the standard oil ring with a 'Low Tension Oil Control Ring. Most manufacturers went with this only to find that the expected benefits such as lower engine friction leading to better economy and reduced hamrful emissions, only lasted for about 50,000 kms or until the oil ring got choked with unburned carbon. This dragged more oil up into the combustion chamber greatly exacerbating the problem. From what I can gather, most manufacturers redesigned the oil rings and a better solution introduced in 2016 engines. But imagine all those poor people who were unaware of these problems and paid in full. A bigger scam than Volkswagen emissions.
The hissing souns is the turbo boost pressure control solenoid. How do I know? Because I broke mine on accident somehow. The hissing sound is the sound coming out of the loose hose which acts as input to the solenoid. $90 brand new, the plastic cracks easily on the nipple for the hose.
my xc90 2018 is making a hissing sound and when turned on it makes a pop through the pipe.
@EverythingLLCompany you have a loose hose somewhere. Get close to the engine bay and listen closely. It's probably a top vaccum line because the only way they hiss is then they are very thin.
I have the same oil burning issue, however Volvo stated that I was outside the extended warranty and not willing to replace the pistons. I love the car however, this will be my last Volvo since they refuse to fix the engine.
Check out this link. It could be useful. ruclips.net/video/EG70jHiT-S0/видео.htmlsi=WzlkcwHrbli5Z4jp
My partners Volvo V40 suffered the same problem with the oil rings in the T4 engine. However here in Australia, Volvo's Customer Service are exceedingly unhelpful, even though the Australian Consumer Law (ACL) say that they should fix it for free. Volvo Customer Service, here in Australia, have an unfortunate reputation. So I took my problem to two government bodies, the ACCC and ACT Fair Trading. Volvo stonewalled them too. An excuse was that they provided the parts and so my partner should pay for labour. "Besides", they said, "the car had done 114,000 kms". They chose to ignore that we had been complaining about excessive oil use from 40,000 kms. And there was a settled Class Action in the US leading to them extending the warranties. ACL even describes this very thing as a Major Fault. "No it isn't!", says Volvo. Sounds like Monty Python. The upshot is now that we go to court. We are encouraged by the ACCC and ACT Fair Trading.
Since Geely took ownership of Volvo, they have been more interested in profit than quality. It's a sad thing indeed.
Here in Brazil, I have a Volvo XC60 2016 T5, 95.00km, and the same issue (oil consumption). I haven't take it to the dealer yet, but I heard form other owners that Volvo won't fix it.
My xc60 had piston rings replaced and my car is fine after 2000 miles and counting. Same situation. I’m in 88k miles.
Is this specific to 4 and 5 cylinder engines only? Or is it also the inline 3.0 inline 6 turbo as found in some XC70s?
@rgt33 I don't know for certain but I think it only affects the 2.0 4 cylinder and the 2.5 5 cylinder.
I am considering replacing my 2012 S60 T6, what models / years do I need to avoid? Any long term experience with the recharge models?
I think the only years affected by the excessive oil consumption were 2013 thru 2016 models. I don't have any experience with the recharge models at all. If your S60 is doing fine and not consuming oil then you are probably OK, especially if you are over the 100,000 mile mark with it.
2017 has new piston rings.
If the recall was VALID. They would be giving you the TOP of the 2017 engine.
Did it solve or curtail the oil consumption issue?
So far so good. I got no advice on when to change the oil afterwards so about 2000 miles I decided I didn't feel good about waiting any longer after a major service. I can't get the 0W-20 Volvo Spec Castrol oil in the US, so I ordered the oil change kit from FCP Euro that uses the LiquiMoly Volvo Spec 0W-20. I'm on about 4,500 on that oil change, with 500 to go before I will change it. I don't like to go the 10,000 miles Volvo sets for these cars. I feel that's too much. With 4,500 miles on this oil change, so far it still says oil level is OK. I check weekly just as a precaution. I am going to take a sample of the oil when I change it and send it off to be analyzed to see if they have any indication of wear. I love this car and hope to have it a long time, but I am looking for a backup vehicle as well, just in case!
@@FloydNashFixItDad Amazing success story! On mine a 2012 S60 T4 with the B4164T engine oil consumption has gone in the last 15,000 Km (from 115,000 Km to 130,000 Km) to 1 liter per 1,000 Km. Here, in Costa Rica where I live, we are orphan Volvo owner's. There's not even a parts breakdown for this 1.6 liter Ford Sigma Europe engine! Worse, no extended warranties, no service recalls, no nothing!
So I wanted to know if to embark in this process of replacing pistons and rings was going to be a total waste of money. Perhaps not. On my dad's 1990 Toyota Corolla I had a "ring job" performed because the punny little 1.3 liter engine was smoking oil. The ring job was performed and it eliminated the smoke but not the oil consumption. Which in a non catalist vehicle was no problem. But not on my Volvo! It will certainly kill the catalyst in no time.
On the tropics, the dealer recommended SAE 10W/30. I started using it and replacing the oil every 5,000 Km or 6 months and filter every 10,000 Km or yearly. I imported the filter from Europe a MANN W7008.
Then at 90,000 Km of ownership the engine started developing all kinds of oil leaks. The valve advance solenoids, the oil-gas separator, then the thermostat housing, then a Y contraption that delivers water to somewhere, etc. I even had it replaced on my means and on my research the core of the turbo. As the intercooler piping was seeping motor oil. This turbo core part that costed a song, but the labor to replace it was hefty!
The punny little Costarican market knows and punishes these otherwise sound vehicles! At 120,000 Km I started using SAE 15W/40 to no avail as it has the same rate of consumption of 1 liter per 1,000 Km.
Tomorrow I will have a customer of my printing shop bring a boroscope to check the cylinder sleeves for scratches. If all is well, I will import the pistons and rings from England and find a reputable tech to perform the job and keep the Volvo for some 10 years more, I hope.
When new, these S60's costed here in Costa Rica US$60,000. I bought mine in 2016 for US$26,000 with 52,000 Km on the odometer. Today, as is, where is, it will bring short of $5,000. There are quite a few with transmission issues. The MPS6 is the same Ford Powershift only with the wet clutch. I had mine overhauled after two weeks of the warranty expiring. Luckily with the mention of the phrase "hidden defect" struck a chord in the service department and they agreed to split the US$4,000 invoice... This transmission, a double clutch has been quite problematic on a mountainous country with stop and go traffic!
On the other hand, my 1995 GMC Jimmy SLS with 350,000 Km burns gas, ok but oil consumption is negligible at 1/2 quart per 5,000 Km. It's a good example of American iron! Thanks for your input!
Hi ,I have the same model and the same issue with excessive oil consumption. 😢
Volvo extended their warranty to 8 years or 100,000 miles to cover this issue. If yours is within that range, get it to a dealership IMMEDIATELY and make them aware. As long as you start the process before time runs out, you should be fine. The process took a year for me but since I started it within that period, it was fully covered.
@FloydNashFixItDad mine has 75k miles. Do you think the warranty still covers it ?8 years past obviously. To be honest I thought there's no chance
@@cata80100 you'll want to take it to a dealership and they can tell you for sure.
@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks,
What is extensive oil consumption?? No problems in Europe… the problem does not stop at the border… right?
4cylinder or 5cylinder 2.0?
The 2.0 is a 4 cylinder. The 5 cylinder will either be 2.4 or most commonly 2.5. Those 2.5 engines were bullet proof.
I have the "special" 2013 2.0 5 cylinder D4 model. (Not the 2.4 5cyl aka d5)
I hear alot of differences between those and the 4 cyl VEA engines which were introduced in 2014 to cut emmisions etc via going to the 4cyl turbo.
Hope you get it sorted Floyd.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_D5_engine#D3
Great video, I love these cars too they are rare. My S60 e drive has the old style pistions also, & they clog up with soot causing it to burn 0.5 oil every 400 miles. I bought mine private used so no warranty. Apart from that car runs sweet. I am going to use engine flushes to see if that reduces the oil usage and cleans out the soot each time I service the car, along with using 0w-20 oil as recommended by the manufacturer. Will see how I get on, if not then it looks like I will have to at some point look about changing the rings on the pistions.
@user-uz9ow4ub5h look up videos on using B12 Chemtool to clean clogged oil rings. Audi and others suffer from the same thing and apparently the Chemtool clean can work pretty well.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Okay thanks, will look Chemtool
What Vacuum hose? What is it named.
Hose that connects to the boost control solenoid on top of the engine on the passenger side