I'm not a builder just a keen DIY , this gentleman has been a great help in setting out the correct way of laying down the deck, thank you for your help 🇬🇧👍
1:15 "basically this is going to support the deck boards. We're using this lovely composite here that we are going to use and it's a solid deck board." He said....picking up the clearly hollow deckboard...😂
Great tips Gareth i build decks as part of my landscaping business i use the same method as you have explained, my only query is the fall on the deck going towards the house i think i would make it fall away from the house unless it was not possible .👍
janice h give it a go I say. Make sure you have all the correct tools and safety wear. Post any questions you may have on here and I’ll try and answer them for you
Hello Gareth, my mate said to concrete 4x4 posts in.. don't you think that's a bit excessive!! My gardens 35m2 and near on the same as what your doing and it looks as though you've used 3x3 for your posts which I thimk us more than enough. Would you be able to let me know please mate. Great video
I’m adding this comment due to the misconception the frame touches the house - It doesn’t - There’s rectangle area outside the doors (please still pause to see this) that’s paved with a French drain it’s basically a landing at a lower point snd you step up to the deck. The conservatory is octagon shape so only the door areas is running parallel to the doors hence why I’ve put a lower land in and drains.
Morning Gareth. Just wondering how far apart and how deep the posts are. Also are they 100 x 100? Am building my deck soon which is slightly raised at the back due to the ground. Thanks, Rob
Robbie Crocker posts are approximately 1.5m apart using 145mm x 45mm joists and around 450mm in ground for low level deck. Treat the posts and slope the concrete away from the posts. Slightly raised area I’d go 600mm pal and yes 100x100 posts
Thanks Gareth for sharing this, I'm just about to build my very first deck. Thought I'd got it all sorted in my head but now this has confused me! I'm planning to build a 4.8m x 3.6m deck, deck boards are 4.8m long so I got 6x2 joists in 3.6m lengths and was going to use joist hanging, but I'm now wondering if 3.6m span is too long and if I should put a 4.8m beam down the middle, which would mean using shorter joist lengths? It's going to be ground level but raised a tad where necessary. Appreciate any thoughts on what I should do, cheers.
Not 💯 sure what you mean but I’m thinking you should run a line of ‘Noggins’ or joist supports inbetween each 3.6m joist in the middle to support the frame work and make stronger and also stops the joists twisting in differing temps. Plenty of supports legs too mate
Hi Gareth, not sure if I missed your spacing of noggins, I like to build a 2.4 x 2.4 deck using 6x2 joists, could you please let me know what spacing for the noggins, Cheers
Hi! So I get snow where I’m at would I also have to add that slope away from the house? It will be built all along the back wall of The House with the exception of the sliding patio door which it will go underneath the framing. Thank you!
Hi Gareth, great video. Planning a deck 500x680. Maybe a silly question, but do you try and space the joist so that the decking boards fall as much as you can without waste, or do you space the joist at x intervals and however the boards fall then you just cut them accordingly? (am I overthinking this)
Hi there, if you were to deck starting from the back exit into the garden , is it a must to attach the decking frame to the back wall (something I really do not want to do, do not own the house as such) but instead leave a small gap between the wall and frame? ( enough so you dont slip your feet into it) thanks in advance
Gareth, Great video. How far apart have you placed the posts to support the frame with c24 and 400 centre. Assuming your using 7x2 or 147*47 would it be around 3m ?
hi gareth.doing a 7.3 x3.3 mtr raised decking about 3 feet.are 6x2 joists big enough, do the joists have support beams at 90degrees under them attached to the posts.
I’ve gone through this on other comments ..... 1. Please note the frame DOES NOT touch the house. Also note the shape of the conservatory in relation to the deck frame. 2. There is lower landing area outside the the doors that area was paved as a landing and there is french drain adjacent to the house. I’ve pictures of this if you’d like to see them. 3. Hope this clears it up
How deep are the posts for this low level deck? How wide are the holes? Is the Bitumen primer same as the Bitumen paint? I thought this stuff was thick, so 3 coats seems alot, or is that the stuff used for rooting I'm thinking of? Is the Bitumen primet/paint as good as the joist tape that's sometimes used? Cheers!
SupermanKelly™ posts are 450mm I’m the ground for a low deck, around 400mm wide, I apply 2-3 coats and fins if works but everyone’s different and it about what works for you. The joist tape is excellent I’m told but we are having good success with the Bitumen.. I’ll definitely try the tape soon
@@GKWilsonGardens Tapes not that easy to find and what I have is not cheap. So from price point Bitumen paint might be better. Post holes at 40cm are wide than I expected. Does a 20kg bag of Postcrete fill that enough to be above ground level and form it so water runs off? Or are you using normal cement mix and adding until fill?
Hi Gareth, we have a timber decking. The top bit is really good though it's very old(no splinters or loose decks) . It's just the bottom bits on which the decking stands that is rotten. Can we replace the bottom bit alone or do we have to replace the entire deck? We live in England.
Well I’ve bought some end cut sealer and bitumen now. I wish you could of seen what the previous owners left behind. A good wind blew the really rotten noggins away!! Cash back 😎
@@Squats200 thank you. I did actually use the bitumen primer for three coats afterwards. Currently building a 3foot high raised bed and have treated all of the wood with bitumen primer then actual bitumen. Will cover with plastic on top of that prior to reintroducing the soil. Also, will bitumen the concrete that the posts are sitting in 😊
Nigel Davis .... None of the sub frame touches the house if you notice. Outside the door is lowered landing that’s been paved with a french drain against the house and the paving slopes away from the house too. I’ve mentioned this in earlier posts pal and fully understand you asking. I’ve got finished pics which would show you better too
Please read comments regarding this below when raised previously. There is 1 paving slab laid outside the doors (lower landing please look closely) which is the only part of the frame that touches the house. There is drainage channel against the house adjacent to the paving. If you look more closely you will see none of the rest of the frame touches the house noting the shape of the conservatory. Hope this helps
Ashley New No it’s absolutely fine the level pal. Theres a lower landing mate outside the doors with a paving slab (not installed at this stage of the project) and drainage in front of the conservatory. Width of the doors 1.2m and drainage installed as mentioned .... the rest of the frame is not fixed or adjacent to the conservatory.... Take a closer look 👀
No it won’t …. It’s C24 treated, over 60mm off-the-ground, cut ends are treated and a bitumin coating too ….. Check what TRADA say before your comment …..
@@GKWilsonGardens Garath, some years ago the 'British Timber Trade Federation', to their credit, launched a campaign called 'Make Sure it's Class Four'. this was to inform builders & ground-workers that Class Four timber must be used in gardens, especially where there's contact on or near the ground. Soft woods of Class 1, 2 & 3 are only meant for interior or covered work but for ground-based stuff, Class 4 is the best & Class 5, well, they build jetties submerged in seawater out of it! Unfortunately, Class 4 & 5 timber is 'special order' & quite expensive. C24 is a Class 3 timber, regardless of whether it's tanalised or not & I'm constantly on jobs fixing posts, fences & deck frameworks which have rotted due to age & earth migrating underneath them. At 3:10 you mention hardwood, Trex & Millboard but then go on to contradict that by saying at 3:23 that C24 is '"he best timber for this job that you can use". This isn't true - hardwood, composite or Class 4 timber would be much better. That 4 x 2 from the builders yard is crap & you know it.....& tanalising is basically a sales gimmick!
I'm not a builder just a keen DIY , this gentleman has been a great help in setting out the correct way of laying down the deck, thank you for your help 🇬🇧👍
Finally, after 6 weeks of trolling for decking tips, I find a clear consise description THE top video on RUclips is this one.Thank you Sir 😊
Brilliant video, he should really get into garden inspections and site visits
Haha, yes, a battery is an essential thing to remember!
Another fine video Gareth!
Liam Gardner thank you pal
excellent he covered all the points ,he's the first guy i have heard commenting on the need to treat the cut ends of any treated wood
Thanks for this, clearly explained. Just about to start mine and picked up a couple of tips I haven't seen elsewhere.
Very good video. Great tips there in nice concise 9 mins package. Thanks
1:15 "basically this is going to support the deck boards.
We're using this lovely composite here that we are going to use and it's a solid deck board."
He said....picking up the clearly hollow deckboard...😂
Great advice Gareth.
Great tips Gareth i build decks as part of my landscaping business i use the same method as you have explained, my only query is the fall on the deck going towards the house i think i would make it fall away from the house unless it was not possible .👍
Hi Pal I’ve explained below re the fall .....Frame doesn’t touch the house and where the doors are there’s a paved landing with French drain
Great. Very helpful
Brilliant job fella !
Great video and some really good advice
great tips in a nice short video cheers
Love all these little details! Great video
Thanks mate you explained that perfectly thanks for the tips 👍
Great video thank you :)
Nice tips👍 much appreciated. Can you link the bitumen primer you use and the water proofing treatment for the concrete posts?
Great work
Great simple video, I’m actually going to have a go building one myself eek!
janice h give it a go I say. Make sure you have all the correct tools and safety wear. Post any questions you may have on here and I’ll try and answer them for you
Nice one boss, really helpful and clear. Big thumbs up !
Thanks for the tips 👍
Great tips, thanks mate
Clear and concise video mate, I've sent you a text about an area of decking I'm doing. I hope you got it ☺️🤞
very good video thanks for taking the time to do it
300mm centres on joists for composite decking boards and run decking away from house would help
Brilliant video
Great vid thanks 👍
Thanks for tip
Great video
EXCELLENT !
The water should run off away from the building not into it! 6:46
Hello Gareth, my mate said to concrete 4x4 posts in.. don't you think that's a bit excessive!! My gardens 35m2 and near on the same as what your doing and it looks as though you've used 3x3 for your posts which I thimk us more than enough. Would you be able to let me know please mate. Great video
Great tip with primer ,but composite decking needs to have a max of 350mm centres ,the boards will sag and bounce
I believe its 300mm private buildings and 200mm for industrial but in UK might have different standards 🤷 if there is any...
@inspirePC I use 300mm and this was back in October lol
Hi, great video. Just wondering how far you spaces the posts out as I’m looking to build a 5m x 3m.
Thanks
You can only see a fall if you’re in the trade as they must give a special treatment to your eyes lol
Proper job, start my project next week, do you coat the underside of the deck boards if you use wood?
No mate the boards should be pre treated
Superb
I’m adding this comment due to the misconception the frame touches the house - It doesn’t - There’s rectangle area outside the doors (please still pause to see this) that’s paved with a French drain it’s basically a landing at a lower point snd you step up to the deck. The conservatory is octagon shape so only the door areas is running parallel to the doors hence why I’ve put a lower land in and drains.
Thanks
Morning Gareth. Just wondering how far apart and how deep the posts are. Also are they 100 x 100? Am building my deck soon which is slightly raised at the back due to the ground. Thanks, Rob
Robbie Crocker posts are approximately 1.5m apart using 145mm x 45mm joists and around 450mm in ground for low level deck. Treat the posts and slope the concrete away from the posts. Slightly raised area I’d go 600mm pal and yes 100x100 posts
@@GKWilsonGardens thanks Gareth
Sove vid. Good job!
Love your work! Quick question: what’s some methods for leveling post height against the others that spans a distance? Thanks in advance 🙏
Good video :)
May I ask a question please?
Are the centre of the joists must be 400mm or that is the maximum?
I mean it can be 300mm as well?
Thanks!
Great video, thanks for sharing.
What angle finder is it you use please?
It came with my chopsaw mate
Thanks Gareth for sharing this, I'm just about to build my very first deck. Thought I'd got it all sorted in my head but now this has confused me! I'm planning to build a 4.8m x 3.6m deck, deck boards are 4.8m long so I got 6x2 joists in 3.6m lengths and was going to use joist hanging, but I'm now wondering if 3.6m span is too long and if I should put a 4.8m beam down the middle, which would mean using shorter joist lengths? It's going to be ground level but raised a tad where necessary. Appreciate any thoughts on what I should do, cheers.
Not 💯 sure what you mean but I’m thinking you should run a line of ‘Noggins’ or joist supports inbetween each 3.6m joist in the middle to support the frame work and make stronger and also stops the joists twisting in differing temps. Plenty of supports legs too mate
Do you treat wood with bitumen before assembly?
Water run off towards the house?
Hi Gareth, not sure if I missed your spacing of noggins, I like to build a 2.4 x 2.4 deck using 6x2 joists, could you please let me know what spacing for the noggins, Cheers
Hi! So I get snow where I’m at would I also have to add that slope away from the house? It will be built all along the back wall of The House with the exception of the sliding patio door which it will go underneath the framing. Thank you!
Top man just about buy some timber do u think c24 4x2 its any good for a build frame
Yes mate as long as it’s not raised and there’s plenty of posts to support
Great video. Really helpful tips. Would you recommend joist hangers or coach screws to attach the joist beams. Thanks
james bucknall we use hex screws which is load bearing mate. If it’s elevated I’ll use both
What's the brand of bitumen primer you recommend?
Hi Gareth, great video. Planning a deck 500x680. Maybe a silly question, but do you try and space the joist so that the decking boards fall as much as you can without waste, or do you space the joist at x intervals and however the boards fall then you just cut them accordingly? (am I overthinking this)
Nooice!
Hi there, if you were to deck starting from the back exit into the garden , is it a must to attach the decking frame to the back wall (something I really do not want to do, do not own the house as such) but instead leave a small gap between the wall and frame? ( enough so you dont slip your feet into it) thanks in advance
Gareth,
Great video. How far apart have you placed the posts to support the frame with c24 and 400 centre. Assuming your using 7x2 or 147*47 would it be around 3m ?
Half that mate
What screws do you use for the frame?
hi gareth.doing a 7.3 x3.3 mtr raised decking about 3 feet.are 6x2 joists big enough, do the joists have support beams at 90degrees under them attached to the posts.
Is it just me or is that deck sloping TOWARDS the house?
Like he said only trades persons can see the drop. 😂😂😂
Graham Rushin I’m a roofer so I know all about drops lol
I’ve gone through this on other comments ..... 1. Please note the frame DOES NOT touch the house. Also note the shape of the conservatory in relation to the deck frame.
2. There is lower landing area outside the the doors that area was paved as a landing and there is french drain adjacent to the house. I’ve pictures of this if you’d like to see them.
3. Hope this clears it up
😂
What waterproofer did you add to the top part of the concrete ?
Nice job... What make of bitumen paint do u use
Blackjack
@@GKWilsonGardens Hi Gareth, sorry you you have answered this already... Are you using bitument primer and the paint (or only the paint)?
Do you have an elastic tape measure ?..... 400mm centres is closer to 16 inches than 18 inches !... lol !
mixedgrill 😂 shows how long it’s been since used feet & inches. Thanks for this pal
Are these 6x2 main timbers Gareth? Also, how far apart are your posts sunk into the ground? Thanks
6x2 joists yes mate. Posts are 400-450mm in the ground
Bitumen traps moisture
Imants Moroz the bottom of the joist is left untreated to allow the wood to breathe
How deep are the post in the ground?thanks
400-450 pal
How deep are the posts for this low level deck? How wide are the holes?
Is the Bitumen primer same as the Bitumen paint? I thought this stuff was thick, so 3 coats seems alot, or is that the stuff used for rooting I'm thinking of? Is the Bitumen primet/paint as good as the joist tape that's sometimes used?
Cheers!
SupermanKelly™ posts are 450mm I’m the ground for a low deck, around 400mm wide, I apply 2-3 coats and fins if works but everyone’s different and it about what works for you. The joist tape is excellent I’m told but we are having good success with the Bitumen.. I’ll definitely try the tape soon
@@GKWilsonGardens Tapes not that easy to find and what I have is not cheap. So from price point Bitumen paint might be better.
Post holes at 40cm are wide than I expected. Does a 20kg bag of Postcrete fill that enough to be above ground level and form it so water runs off? Or are you using normal cement mix and adding until fill?
Try everbuild black jack bitumen paint 👍🏻
@@tonyl1984 I did posts with Blackjack Bitumen paint. Bought the primer for the frame. I assume this goes further as it's thinner.
yep, agreed!@@tonyl1984
15.75 inches=400 mm
Hi Gareth, we have a timber decking. The top bit is really good though it's very old(no splinters or loose decks) . It's just the bottom bits on which the decking stands that is rotten. Can we replace the bottom bit alone or do we have to replace the entire deck? We live in England.
Komali Reddy if it was me I’d replace the lot. If the joists have gone the boards won’t be far behind.
Thanks a lot for your reply Gareth. 👍
no need to fall decking it has gaps in to drain. peas will be running off the plate!
Industry best practise mate look it up on Google.
So you spend a day measuring/cutting and painting bitumen for a day then assemble when it’s all dry?
Depends on the size of the deck mate
Well I’ve bought some end cut sealer and bitumen now. I wish you could of seen what the previous owners left behind. A good wind blew the really rotten noggins away!! Cash back 😎
Would decking oil be as good as bitumen primer?
no, bitumens far better for the bits you don't see.
@@Squats200 thank you. I did actually use the bitumen primer for three coats afterwards. Currently building a 3foot high raised bed and have treated all of the wood with bitumen primer then actual bitumen. Will cover with plastic on top of that prior to reintroducing the soil. Also, will bitumen the concrete that the posts are sitting in 😊
cant hurt can it. I always over engineer too! @@PureTruth
@@Squats200 drives my missus mad 😂😂😂 “Why’s it taking so long?”. Should last a lifetime if done properly I tell her 🤣🤣
Hi there, what bitumen paint do you use?
I can recommend Black Jack - Black Bituminous Paint. Which is available in the UK. I've done two coats on my decking joists, water runs straight off
Why is your deck falling towards the property?
Nigel Davis .... None of the sub frame touches the house if you notice. Outside the door is lowered landing that’s been paved with a french drain against the house and the paving slopes away from the house too. I’ve mentioned this in earlier posts pal and fully understand you asking. I’ve got finished pics which would show you better too
Thanks Gareth. Quick1, when i do my sub frame, should it fall horizontally with the boards & away from the house mate?
Thanks
I built a deck and was boarded by Pirates!!.😳
Should’ve build a plank so they could walk it 😂
Sure it wasn't built by cowboys. 😲
So you going to run the water towards the house !
Smart way to get more work for rise damp !!!!!!!! £
Please read comments regarding this below when raised previously. There is 1 paving slab laid outside the doors (lower landing please look closely) which is the only part of the frame that touches the house. There is drainage channel against the house adjacent to the paving. If you look more closely you will see none of the rest of the frame touches the house noting the shape of the conservatory. Hope this helps
That deck is running towards the house. Not away pal or your level is broken
Ashley New No it’s absolutely fine the level pal. Theres a lower landing mate outside the doors with a paving slab (not installed at this stage of the project) and drainage in front of the conservatory. Width of the doors 1.2m and drainage installed as mentioned .... the rest of the frame is not fixed or adjacent to the conservatory.... Take a closer look 👀
You should never run patio or decking towards building rookie mistake
This is bullshit, that frame will rot out in under ten years.
No it won’t …. It’s C24 treated, over 60mm off-the-ground, cut ends are treated and a bitumin coating too ….. Check what TRADA say before your comment …..
@@GKWilsonGardens Garath, some years ago the 'British Timber Trade Federation', to their credit, launched a campaign called 'Make Sure it's Class Four'. this was to inform builders & ground-workers that Class Four timber must be used in gardens, especially where there's contact on or near the ground. Soft woods of Class 1, 2 & 3 are only meant for interior or covered work but for ground-based stuff, Class 4 is the best & Class 5, well, they build jetties submerged in seawater out of it! Unfortunately, Class 4 & 5 timber is 'special order' & quite expensive. C24 is a Class 3 timber, regardless of whether it's tanalised or not & I'm constantly on jobs fixing posts, fences & deck frameworks which have rotted due to age & earth migrating underneath them. At 3:10 you mention hardwood, Trex & Millboard but then go on to contradict that by saying at 3:23 that C24 is '"he best timber for this job that you can use". This isn't true - hardwood, composite or Class 4 timber would be much better. That 4 x 2 from the builders yard is crap & you know it.....& tanalising is basically a sales gimmick!
On the FLOOR class 4 …… It’s NOT on the FLOOR 🤣
No one uses hardwood joists not even Dr Decks do ……
Teaching your granny to such eggs!!! Likes the sound of his own voice, stick to your gardening! You're not a carpenter.
Robert Day really? Are you sure?