Not sure why I never thought of using actual rust to create a rust effect! That's pretty cool. If you want to speed up the oxidizing process (speed it up like going from days to hours or even minutes), try adding some hydrogen peroxide to your vinegar solution. Right now you're just using air as the oxidizer, but the peroxide creates rust faster because it's a better oxidizer (it's also a better disinfectant than vinegar if your really worried about that bacteria and stuff). Like you said though, you need the acetic acid in the vinegar to catalyze the reaction. It doesn't actually remove any coating from the steel wool. The positive hydrogen ions in the acid remove electrons from the iron, ionizing it and making it more susceptible to rust. The only caveat I'd have for using the peroxide is that I'm not sure how peroxide will react with acrylic paint. I've only ever used the technique to add a rust patina to art projects.
Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback. A solid tip on the hydrogen peroxide. I'll experiment with the paints just to see. Not all my paints are acrylic. Some are enamel and then there is the urethane paints. I'd be concerned that the hydrogen peroxide method might change the variations in tones I get in the rust with the process acceleration. Having tones to play with is important to me seeing that we are using them to create different kinds of rust colors. This rusty gold sit for a long time. I've got a pot that has a good year on it. Nothing ever grew in the paint pot and I always attributed that to using the vinegar. Not having bacteria or fuzzy things in my paint pots is a good thing. The only science project I want is the rust. 😉😁 I've heard from a few people going way back in time that there was a coating to the steel wool that prevented it from rusting in the package. That always made sense to me and I never really questioned it. I've never seen a new package that had rust tinges so there was validation in that statement to me. The science behind the the vinegar would be solid all the way around on both accounts. In all honesty, I don't care how it does it so long as it does it. 👍😉😁 Thanks again for the input and stopping by the shop.👍
Nice tutorial man! I found your video how to make full rust car but how did you do the other one? the blue one? did you paint it blue and then applied rust? or did you paint it blue then added some orange and painted rust on top of orange? wouldnt you get same "effect" like mixing some quarts sand some paint and glue? Thanks!
The blue car was actually green from the factory. I always strip cars I do to bare metal. After the car was stripped I applied the rust and then did a worn/chipped paint technique. As far as mixing paint with sand? Not for me. Nothing looks like rust more than real rust. Why would I use paint when I can use the real thing? I'll be doing a video on that in the future. For now, it was necessary to show how to make the rust so that when I do future how-tos I can refer people back to this. Keep watching and subscribe so you'll know when I post new videos. Thanks for being part of the Gaslands Garage community.
Do you have any problems with the material continuing to rust after you apply it to the cars? I would think the acid in the vinegar would continue to eat the metal until all of it was catylized. Also does the vinegar have negative reactions with the paint or the materials on the cars?
I think you're way overthinking the whole thing. I've never had any issues or concerns with what you've brought up. This is a process that's been around for decades within the railroad modeling world. Long before rust textures became a product. Nothing last forever though. Even the Zamac of diecast cars oxidizes. They just oxidize to grey because it's not an iron based metal but Zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper. The cars you buy out of a package are in the process of rusting. 😉👍
Ok, this is going to sound super stupid, but how do you collect the rust from the wool? I get that some rust will collect on the bottom if the jar, but a lot will be on the wool itself, won't it?. Do you rinse and strain the wool? I've seen others fill a mason jar with vinegar and wool, and then later strain the liquid with a coffee filter to collect the rust.
Ok. So there is no actual wool fibers to steel wool. Steel wool is steel that's in thin strands and resembles clumps of wool. Hence the name. So... the fibers breakdown through oxidation and basically just dissolve into what we apply to the car. Thin out the rusty sludge with some white distilled vinegar if needed to bring things to paint consistency. Add more as needed due to evaporation. Make more rust as required. That should answer the question.
Hah, yeah, I know there isn't wool fibers in it. I just wasn't envisioning it breaking down as much as you are suggesting. I was imagining having a clump of rusty steel wool. Thanks! This looks great, will give it a go.
@@wilesps That's cool. I just wanted to make sure you're perhaps one of the people in the world that has never experienced steel wool first hand. Steel wool will eventually turn to powder given enough time to rust. Being in the vinegar that powder gets sludgy/muddy. That's a good thing for us. 👍😁
Not sure why I never thought of using actual rust to create a rust effect! That's pretty cool.
If you want to speed up the oxidizing process (speed it up like going from days to hours or even minutes), try adding some hydrogen peroxide to your vinegar solution.
Right now you're just using air as the oxidizer, but the peroxide creates rust faster because it's a better oxidizer (it's also a better disinfectant than vinegar if your really worried about that bacteria and stuff).
Like you said though, you need the acetic acid in the vinegar to catalyze the reaction. It doesn't actually remove any coating from the steel wool. The positive hydrogen ions in the acid remove electrons from the iron, ionizing it and making it more susceptible to rust.
The only caveat I'd have for using the peroxide is that I'm not sure how peroxide will react with acrylic paint. I've only ever used the technique to add a rust patina to art projects.
Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback. A solid tip on the hydrogen peroxide. I'll experiment with the paints just to see. Not all my paints are acrylic. Some are enamel and then there is the urethane paints.
I'd be concerned that the hydrogen peroxide method might change the variations in tones I get in the rust with the process acceleration. Having tones to play with is important to me seeing that we are using them to create different kinds of rust colors.
This rusty gold sit for a long time. I've got a pot that has a good year on it. Nothing ever grew in the paint pot and I always attributed that to using the vinegar. Not having bacteria or fuzzy things in my paint pots is a good thing. The only science project I want is the rust. 😉😁
I've heard from a few people going way back in time that there was a coating to the steel wool that prevented it from rusting in the package. That always made sense to me and I never really questioned it. I've never seen a new package that had rust tinges so there was validation in that statement to me. The science behind the the vinegar would be solid all the way around on both accounts. In all honesty, I don't care how it does it so long as it does it. 👍😉😁
Thanks again for the input and stopping by the shop.👍
Excellent advice. What a great community you're creating.
@@mikestanmore2614 glad you enjoyed it. I got more trips up my sleeve. If only I could get them to video faster for you guys.👍
@@gaslandsgarage7214 You keep posting, I'll keep watching.
Haza Science!
Great tip, I may have to give it a try soon!
Nice tutorial man! I found your video how to make full rust car but how did you do the other one? the blue one? did you paint it blue and then applied rust? or did you paint it blue then added some orange and painted rust on top of orange? wouldnt you get same "effect" like mixing some quarts sand some paint and glue? Thanks!
The blue car was actually green from the factory. I always strip cars I do to bare metal. After the car was stripped I applied the rust and then did a worn/chipped paint technique. As far as mixing paint with sand? Not for me. Nothing looks like rust more than real rust. Why would I use paint when I can use the real thing?
I'll be doing a video on that in the future. For now, it was necessary to show how to make the rust so that when I do future how-tos I can refer people back to this.
Keep watching and subscribe so you'll know when I post new videos. Thanks for being part of the Gaslands Garage community.
You sneaky so n so 😁 oky.
.now I see what you where getting at.good vid😊
Do you have any problems with the material continuing to rust after you apply it to the cars? I would think the acid in the vinegar would continue to eat the metal until all of it was catylized. Also does the vinegar have negative reactions with the paint or the materials on the cars?
I think you're way overthinking the whole thing. I've never had any issues or concerns with what you've brought up.
This is a process that's been around for decades within the railroad modeling world. Long before rust textures became a product. Nothing last forever though. Even the Zamac of diecast cars oxidizes. They just oxidize to grey because it's not an iron based metal but Zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper.
The cars you buy out of a package are in the process of rusting. 😉👍
Ok, this is going to sound super stupid, but how do you collect the rust from the wool? I get that some rust will collect on the bottom if the jar, but a lot will be on the wool itself, won't it?. Do you rinse and strain the wool? I've seen others fill a mason jar with vinegar and wool, and then later strain the liquid with a coffee filter to collect the rust.
Ok. So there is no actual wool fibers to steel wool. Steel wool is steel that's in thin strands and resembles clumps of wool. Hence the name.
So... the fibers breakdown through oxidation and basically just dissolve into what we apply to the car. Thin out the rusty sludge with some white distilled vinegar if needed to bring things to paint consistency. Add more as needed due to evaporation. Make more rust as required.
That should answer the question.
Hah, yeah, I know there isn't wool fibers in it. I just wasn't envisioning it breaking down as much as you are suggesting. I was imagining having a clump of rusty steel wool. Thanks! This looks great, will give it a go.
@@wilesps That's cool. I just wanted to make sure you're perhaps one of the people in the world that has never experienced steel wool first hand. Steel wool will eventually turn to powder given enough time to rust. Being in the vinegar that powder gets sludgy/muddy. That's a good thing for us. 👍😁