It was my understanding the rings rusted out on a lot of the MK3's in the great white north. Finding these in a junk yard (in good shape) might be impossible.
I would also go by updating the rear brakes anyway. They look pretty beat and rusty now. I don't know if that won't become an issue down the road. But why delete ABS when it's already there :)
My old 95 Golf had a proportion valve/anti-lock valve mounted via a linkage to the rear axle. The more extension the rear had under braking(rear of the car going up), the less brake pressure the calipers received from the master cylinder. I don't remember that car having a proportion valve under the master cylinder. I could be wrong on that, but it you go ABS delete, I'd see if you could get that rear valve. It was two in, two out, and I can tell you it worked like a champ. I could stop that car faster than most, with stock rotors and Padgid pads front and back. Just a dime of advice. Keep the awesome videos coming, Sir!!!
Hey Charles, I can't tell you how much I love and appreciate your videos on the white wookie. I have a mk3 Jetta vr6 that I've been trying to build, and these videos are great help. Keep em' coming
Rear brakes lock up is apparently common when upgrading the front brakes. The better stopping power transfers more weight to the front, making the rear tires easier to lock up. Something tells me even if you fix the ABS you're going to be working the pump harder than a stock brake setup. It may be worth putting a proportioning valve in alongside fixing the ABS system.
Pat Beattie I have upgraded 4 piston calipers in the front on my Corrado with stock rear brakes. I get some lock up on the rear brakes. Do you think I should run an aggressive pad in the rear to possibly help balance things out?
@@aaronpeople101 im no expert in braking, but from what Ive researched you would want to lower the pressure to the rear brakes. So less agressive pads in the rear would be better.
Love watching the process you take figuring out the issues you come across. I’m still trying to figure out my euro spec Mk3 golf savoy. It’s going to Bosch soon so they can try and figure it out lol also cool see the white wookie again I can’t wait to boost my Vr6 and hopefully get it 4 motion swapped as well.
i have ABS light on with ESP light speed not working indictor not working some time working, speed sensors ar working, any idea how to fix, if ABS module short circle need programing, is it easy ? can i do at home ?
You have a lot of plans for that car so plenty of good content coming up. I'd be especially interested in what you find out about the brakes as I'm considering Wilwood for my Corvette.
Hey charles, loving the white wookie im currently restoring my 97 vr6 here in uk rust is a big problem on 23 year old car need your help please i cant find any info on replacing brake hard lines from abs pump to rear beam. Does the abs pump need bleeding/priming if these lines are removed and replaced. Any help appreciated thanks james
The ABS warning light should come on briefly then go off again if there are no initial faults when you first turn on the ignition. Chances are that if someone did forget to move over the ABS rings they couldn't work out why and just disconnected the bulb (really easy to do). Playing devil's advocate, they can and do rust out and will "disappear" as a result but this doesn't happen often...
That is what I am thinking happened. I didn't pull the panel off to check the indicator yet. Based on the rest of the car, I don't think it rusted away totally. Looks like those rotors never had them on HAHA
Awesome vid...love all the current projects you're doing. Quick question......How do I auto bleed an ABS module without a tech2 scan tool? Recently replaced all the brake lines on my 05 Buick Rendezvous. Installed Russell speed bleeders on all for corners and bled the MC on the car. Bled all lines several times manually, but only have a partial pedal. It doesn't form up until half way through the pedal stroke. Any suggestions???
Hey. I have a B6 FSI 2.0T Passat. The ECP light is on. When I start the car, it takes a bit, and then idles roughly. After it sits for a bit, it idles regularly. I can drive it but it hik-ups when I accelerate, so I’ve been easy on accelerating. It’s like its in limp mode. I put my foot to the floor and it takes forever to get up to speed. I wanted to know if it could be the throttle body, fuel pump, or even mass air flow sensor. I need serious help man, any helps. I’d appreciate it.
Hey Charles. Love this channel it helped me a lot with my mk3 jetta. I'm searching a for a video where you touched or mentioned the shifter bushing and maybe replacing the o2a tower? Is it better with a o2j from a mk4 or just to rebuild the oem one already inside
Good evening dear, I wanted to know if it is normal in a jetta gli 2.0 tsi dsg 2011, without button to deactivate traction control, that the car both in sequential position and in sport mode, pass the changes (shifts) at 4500 rpm, without the possibility of stretching the Acceleration between change and change. Beyond that, the car is doing very well, it puts the changes in time and form, makes the recess when you step on thoroughly, but the only thing is that it does not stretch the changes. What could be the reason for this behavior? It is normal? Is it solved with a reprogramming? From already thank you very much. Regards Pd: the car was scanned with vagcom and does not present any falut code.
Charles, please PLEASE show us how you do the speed sensor test using VCDS!! Also can you show us how to read electrical diagrams - just the basics so we know what the main symbols are in elsawin?? Thank you.
@@HumbleMechanic In your opinion, what's the weirdest thing that VW does with wiring diagrams? I've gotten used to them in the Bentley manual. I feel that having too much info is better than not enough.
Very interesting video - missed seeing what a hydraulic pump looks like. Don't delete ABS - you make that sound easy but it's a lot of work and may present problems with the proportioning between front and rear. Also a proper repair is much more interesting than a dodgy build.
My abs module is bad and I can't find anyone that rebuilds them or even find a new one for less than $1300. The abs module also controls the electronic locking differential, which would be nice to have.
I miss my old 97 Jetta. It had the 2.0 na motor but ran for over 250,000 miles before I replaced it with an 02 Golf 1.8t. Mk3 cars are a great platform.
Glad I found a dude like you. I have a question completely unrelated to this video. I’m rebuilding a 2016 Audi S3. I’ve recently replaced the seat belts and have to configure the two front seat belt tensioners. Codes B130455 and B130555 for reference. My question is, on the Ross tech wiki it’s says “seat belts must NOT be plugged in” when configuring. Do they mean the belt must not be buckled in, or all of the actual electrical connectors to the seat belt must not be plugged in? I’d REALLY appreciate any kind of help. Thanks
Yeah yeah ABS on older cars is fun. I just figured out an ABS fault on my mums B5 V6 Syncro Passat. Thats was fun. Turns out the wiring harness for the left rear on cars with Xenon is not available anywhere. So I had to solder in a new sensor. Plus it turns out that there is no communication through the OBD port. So that's gonna be the next thing.
Ya know... How does a Mk3 get rotors with no rings? ABS was standard for Mk3's, was it not? I'll bet those were rotors for a Mk2 the previous owner put on?
@@HumbleMechanic Oh? I thought the reluctance rings were non-removable? I can't remember. It's been a long time. I do recall that Mk2 and Mk3 rotors were interchangeable in some situations. I graduated to an Audi S4 about 10 years ago, so I haven't been old school VeeDubbin in many years.
Those rear abs rings are less than 10€ in eu, and you can get them in mostly any parts shop. It really doesn't pay to buy used rusty ones as they tend to cause problems later.
Lol that would be rad. The R32 would be last for sure. It’s about 100WHP less that these 2. The R would probably be fastest becuSr traction. But how much fun would it be! .
If you get all the original parts back on i.e sensor wheels and make sure the wheel speed sensor is working, the ABS module should work itself out. Had the same issue with a GTI many years ago after snagging a curb in the wet. All I did was make sure everything was back as it should be and cleared any codes, then took the car for a short drive making sure to do some quick stops along the way. The pump may even come good if its slightly ceased from no use, never had one fail personally but nothing is out of the question and would be a real PITA if it has lol. Good luck with it, go make some wookie choo choo noises...
Ditch the ABS . Even when it works correctly it will limit the hyd flow and limit performance/ not calibrated for wildwood or big rear disc kit . Just use the pre ABS with the 25mm master And the aluminum axle biasing block , stainless lines .
Use the Audi 90 master and the biggest booster 25.5 The wildwoods have more internal poston capacity than the girling or ATE set ups I believe . The old ABS modules are and look like crap . Use all new parts and lines
Those modules are bad about the main incoming power solder joints cracking. Same module on volvos. Vw guys are the worst about to ripping abs out of a car. We repaired mine and all was well. Maybe this will help someone. Keep abs. Brake proportioning on the fly is totes.
This is why I am glad my 1998 Jetta GL 2.0l. 5 speed doesnt have ABS. At 285,000+ miles I think I know everything thats wrong with it. Get to know your vehicle intimately.
It's also funny that the whole time he had the car he didn't check rear brakes and rotors? He has done so much to the car, front brake kit and leaving the rear untouched? That's almost like a bad practice.
Not a bad practice, just hadn’t got to that point yet. Did the fronts, found and issue and parked it. I don’t like overlapping mods if I can help it. That way if you do have an issue you have less to go back and check. Rear brakes were on the list from day one.
@@HumbleMechanic Well, yeah, it depends. As you said you had problems with wheels locking up and doing all the fun stuff, you might have had more to go if you would have been in a worse situation maybe, but you and the car is good, which is good.. also, I have a question about intercoolers on VR6 Turbo, um.. is intercooler necessary? How much boost do you think VR6 can run without an intercooler before it might start bringing up problems, or you will just get less performance by not adding that? My plan might be adding a turbo also but probably not going above 15psi in the long run. How much are you running and how does is feel? Horsepower figures?
Don't delete the ABS, that's the hack way of solving the problem! The ABS rings are dirt cheap, available. The ABS auto-bleed program should solve most issues
My Mk1 Jetta GLi Coupe "Güenter " just said to me now "Heir Mike, vats un ABS?" Told him not to worry about it - it's just something the young cars like to wear. He shrugged it off mumbling about how young cars got it too easy today. "Vhy back in un old days drivers had to pump der own brakes to stoppen!" 😁
Shouldn't the ABS light switch On when you switch the ignition ON? This means ABS check, like the airbag check? But, like i'v seen in a first gen Mazda 3 it has a very bad walkaround. Someone had connected the light to a relay and when the car ignition is On, the light stays on for a few seconds /like it should be/ and the off. You will think that it's all right, but No No, when you hook it up, the Airbag errors come on. Then you think to yourself, am I so dumb and did not see the light stay on after starting, well no. You just got screwed. So always hook the car to a diagnostic tool on inspection. I mean ok, hide an engine problem, a gearbox problem, exhaust, but an Airbag problem or a brake problem. This should be criminal imo.
@@dudley7540 No... not a fan of VW. I don't hate them, they were always meh for me. But, I love videos made by Charles :) They are super informative and made with passion. And you can apply that knowledge on other brands.
Looks like I can get the missing parts pretty cheap. I Think step one is to install them, test ABS, and go from there/.
On the plus side, it's another video that would be handy for many mk3 owners.
It was my understanding the rings rusted out on a lot of the MK3's in the great white north. Finding these in a junk yard (in good shape) might be impossible.
@@KC-lu7vo Down here is should be pretty easy. I think I can get them for about $20 new. Well worth it. HA
@@HumbleMechanic Do it and make it a video as has been suggested.
I would also go by updating the rear brakes anyway. They look pretty beat and rusty now. I don't know if that won't become an issue down the road. But why delete ABS when it's already there :)
My old 95 Golf had a proportion valve/anti-lock valve mounted via a linkage to the rear axle. The more extension the rear had under braking(rear of the car going up), the less brake pressure the calipers received from the master cylinder. I don't remember that car having a proportion valve under the master cylinder. I could be wrong on that, but it you go ABS delete, I'd see if you could get that rear valve. It was two in, two out, and I can tell you it worked like a champ. I could stop that car faster than most, with stock rotors and Padgid pads front and back. Just a dime of advice. Keep the awesome videos coming, Sir!!!
Nice! Yeah if we delete prop valve would be installed. Probably going back with abs
Hey Charles, I can't tell you how much I love and appreciate your videos on the white wookie. I have a mk3 Jetta vr6 that I've been trying to build, and these videos are great help. Keep em' coming
Please do more white wookie vids.
Saw new gti video, had to watch this on the tv.. its been a min couldnt use my phone.. lol.. glad she not forgotten 👍🏾
Charles I am a fan of this project . I hope you a can continue with it I have learnt alot from these videos
Dude. You own some of the rarest old VW cars - R32, Golf 3 VR6 .. Nice!
LOL I am basically the worst of the worst as a VW customer. HAHAHAH
Rear brakes lock up is apparently common when upgrading the front brakes. The better stopping power transfers more weight to the front, making the rear tires easier to lock up. Something tells me even if you fix the ABS you're going to be working the pump harder than a stock brake setup. It may be worth putting a proportioning valve in alongside fixing the ABS system.
Pat Beattie I have upgraded 4 piston calipers in the front on my Corrado with stock rear brakes. I get some lock up on the rear brakes. Do you think I should run an aggressive pad in the rear to possibly help balance things out?
@@aaronpeople101 im no expert in braking, but from what Ive researched you would want to lower the pressure to the rear brakes. So less agressive pads in the rear would be better.
Love your honesty man,,, not many ppl here on "the tube" would admit to such faults,,, good work as usual, keep it up 👍
Lol wait to you hear the power issue. This went from “wow that’s odd” to “wow I did what???” Hahah
Love watching the process you take figuring out the issues you come across. I’m still trying to figure out my euro spec Mk3 golf savoy. It’s going to Bosch soon so they can try and figure it out lol also cool see the white wookie again I can’t wait to boost my Vr6 and hopefully get it 4 motion swapped as well.
Some interesting finds. I’ve deleted the ABS on my Corrado, not really my thing haha.
Love the way you diagnose it’s similar to how I diag your videos rock!
Thanks so much
Not a problem at all, you’re my go to guy for VW stuff you have helped me in so many ways and always thorough and clear when talking in your videos.
Hi , im starting to watch this playlist right now , love your videos on the Engineering Explained
Thanks so much. EE is a rad dude
Anychance you can talk about a 12v VR6 lifter replacement?
The good old White Wookie
i have ABS light on with ESP light speed not working indictor not working some time working, speed sensors ar working, any idea how to fix, if ABS module short circle need programing, is it easy ? can i do at home ?
I've had a vr6 with the abs light wire connected to the alternator wire so it comes on and goes off to make it appear to be Working
You have a lot of plans for that car so plenty of good content coming up. I'd be especially interested in what you find out about the brakes as I'm considering Wilwood for my Corvette.
Hey charles, loving the white wookie im currently restoring my 97 vr6 here in uk rust is a big problem on 23 year old car need your help please i cant find any info on replacing brake hard lines from abs pump to rear beam. Does the abs pump need bleeding/priming if these lines are removed and replaced. Any help appreciated thanks james
Abs only needs to be bled if it gets air. If you loosen the line, cap it so fluid won’t leak and hustle you might be able to avoid abs bleed
hello sir Please help me i was replacing a starter on 2002 lexus LS430
Very helpful video! You should make a MK4 ABS video as well.
The ABS warning light should come on briefly then go off again if there are no initial faults when you first turn on the ignition. Chances are that if someone did forget to move over the ABS rings they couldn't work out why and just disconnected the bulb (really easy to do). Playing devil's advocate, they can and do rust out and will "disappear" as a result but this doesn't happen often...
That is what I am thinking happened. I didn't pull the panel off to check the indicator yet. Based on the rest of the car, I don't think it rusted away totally. Looks like those rotors never had them on HAHA
Awesome vid...love all the current projects you're doing.
Quick question......How do I auto bleed an ABS module without a tech2 scan tool? Recently replaced all the brake lines on my 05 Buick Rendezvous. Installed Russell speed bleeders on all for corners and bled the MC on the car. Bled all lines several times manually, but only have a partial pedal. It doesn't form up until half way through the pedal stroke. Any suggestions???
Strange one... Were you getting the ABS light on the dash when cycling the ign. on? Has someone removed the light?
Hey, I have an 86 Jetta and having trouble find parts for it. Any suggestions?
Hey. I have a B6 FSI 2.0T Passat. The ECP light is on. When I start the car, it takes a bit, and then idles roughly. After it sits for a bit, it idles regularly. I can drive it but it hik-ups when I accelerate, so I’ve been easy on accelerating. It’s like its in limp mode. I put my foot to the floor and it takes forever to get up to speed. I wanted to know if it could be the throttle body, fuel pump, or even mass air flow sensor. I need serious help man, any helps. I’d appreciate it.
Hey Charles. Love this channel it helped me a lot with my mk3 jetta. I'm searching a for a video where you touched or mentioned the shifter bushing and maybe replacing the o2a tower?
Is it better with a o2j from a mk4 or just to rebuild the oem one already inside
Good evening dear, I wanted to know if it is normal in a jetta gli 2.0 tsi dsg 2011, without button to deactivate traction control, that the car both in sequential position and in sport mode, pass the changes (shifts) at 4500 rpm, without the possibility of stretching the Acceleration between change and change. Beyond that, the car is doing very well, it puts the changes in time and form, makes the recess when you step on thoroughly, but the only thing is that it does not stretch the changes.
What could be the reason for this behavior? It is normal? Is it solved with a reprogramming?
From already thank you very much. Regards
Pd: the car was scanned with vagcom and does not present any falut code.
Charles, please PLEASE show us how you do the speed sensor test using VCDS!! Also can you show us how to read electrical diagrams - just the basics so we know what the main symbols are in elsawin?? Thank you.
That is a great idea! The wiring diagram is a little trickier. VW gets a little weird about things like that.
@@HumbleMechanic In your opinion, what's the weirdest thing that VW does with wiring diagrams?
I've gotten used to them in the Bentley manual. I feel that having too much info is better than not enough.
This two part series from RossTech helped me greatly, definitely worth a watch!
ruclips.net/video/jKnTjuSmwaE/видео.html
Too little info and them being wrong. Also inaccurate vin split issues
The ABS is one of the weaker systems on these but thankfully not too tricky to figure out. Good luck
Basic diagnostics,but still still,you're very thorough!
Thank you. I agree it’s basic but I think the more we are exposed to different tactics the better
Very interesting video - missed seeing what a hydraulic pump looks like. Don't delete ABS - you make that sound easy but it's a lot of work and may present problems with the proportioning between front and rear.
Also a proper repair is much more interesting than a dodgy build.
Agree! I found the power issue. I also just picked up the ABS rings.
HumbleMechanic
Goody! 😊
My abs module is bad and I can't find anyone that rebuilds them or even find a new one for less than $1300. The abs module also controls the electronic locking differential, which would be nice to have.
I miss my old 97 Jetta. It had the 2.0 na motor but ran for over 250,000 miles before I replaced it with an 02 Golf 1.8t. Mk3 cars are a great platform.
As much as I loved my mk3 Golf, it's nothing compared to my mk4 Jetta.
Could not let go of my 98 Jetta @ 285000+ miles & still love it.
panzerveps I went from mk4 to mk3 and could not be happier. Yes it’s less refined but it has SO many fewer problems.
Can’t wait for a big project! Please hurry up 😁
Would love updates to see all the problems solved and then if you wanted to update to manual bias that would be great after seeing the issues solved
Glad I found a dude like you. I have a question completely unrelated to this video. I’m rebuilding a 2016 Audi S3. I’ve recently replaced the seat belts and have to configure the two front seat belt tensioners. Codes B130455 and B130555 for reference. My question is, on the Ross tech wiki it’s says “seat belts must NOT be plugged in” when configuring. Do they mean the belt must not be buckled in, or all of the actual electrical connectors to the seat belt must not be plugged in? I’d REALLY appreciate any kind of help. Thanks
Yes on more videos with this car!
Ever considered becoming a VTA advisor?
I don’t think I’d be very good. Lol
Yeah yeah ABS on older cars is fun. I just figured out an ABS fault on my mums B5 V6 Syncro Passat. Thats was fun. Turns out the wiring harness for the left rear on cars with Xenon is not available anywhere. So I had to solder in a new sensor.
Plus it turns out that there is no communication through the OBD port. So that's gonna be the next thing.
Treat her well, fix the abs
P0237 fault code and very limited power,already changed the turbo sensor but car still continues to have problem,vw golf mk7,anyone have any idea
The mysterious wookkie returns with more misteries!
Ya know... How does a Mk3 get rotors with no rings? ABS was standard for Mk3's, was it not? I'll bet those were rotors for a Mk2 the previous owner put on?
This is super common. Guys don’t swap the rings when doing brakes. Seen it a bunch. Almost did it on the first one I did
@@HumbleMechanic Oh? I thought the reluctance rings were non-removable? I can't remember. It's been a long time. I do recall that Mk2 and Mk3 rotors were interchangeable in some situations. I graduated to an Audi S4 about 10 years ago, so I haven't been old school VeeDubbin in many years.
Those rear abs rings are less than 10€ in eu, and you can get them in mostly any parts shop. It really doesn't pay to buy used rusty ones as they tend to cause problems later.
Agree. Found the mmmm for $10 each
Always say I love that gti my most fav of them all
Any links for the brake kit, thank you!
Nevermind, just saw the last video😊
what i want to see is the white wookie vs blue eyed wookie vs golden child r. using a dragy. is awesome intake video, with alot of science
Lol that would be rad. The R32 would be last for sure. It’s about 100WHP less that these 2. The R would probably be fastest becuSr traction. But how much fun would it be! .
@@HumbleMechanic charles these videos are the best
Mechanic getting married: One ring to ask for her hand? The other in for the wedding?
Lol
yaaaaaaayyyyy mk3 updates
The wire with the gigantic resistance rating, is called an OPEN CIRCUIT.
Not really. An open circuit is an ope. Circuit. They may function similarly but they are not the same
you are a wonderful person and smart
If you get all the original parts back on i.e sensor wheels and make sure the wheel speed sensor is working, the ABS module should work itself out. Had the same issue with a GTI many years ago after snagging a curb in the wet. All I did was make sure everything was back as it should be and cleared any codes, then took the car for a short drive making sure to do some quick stops along the way. The pump may even come good if its slightly ceased from no use, never had one fail personally but nothing is out of the question and would be a real PITA if it has lol. Good luck with it, go make some wookie choo choo noises...
That’s kinda what I’m thinking and hoping for. Lol got the rings I’m picking up today
My oil level sensor hasnt worked for about 8 years.
That was awesome! for me thanks.
Ditch the ABS .
Even when it works correctly it will limit the hyd flow and limit performance/ not calibrated for wildwood or big rear disc kit .
Just use the pre ABS with the 25mm master
And the aluminum axle biasing block , stainless lines .
Use the Audi 90 master and the biggest booster 25.5
The wildwoods have more internal poston capacity than the girling or ATE set ups I believe .
The old ABS modules are and look like crap .
Use all new parts and lines
Yeeey. Le golf adventures! 😄
Those modules are bad about the main incoming power solder joints cracking. Same module on volvos. Vw guys are the worst about to ripping abs out of a car. We repaired mine and all was well. Maybe this will help someone. Keep abs. Brake proportioning on the fly is totes.
The power issue is before the fuse on teh battery side. I need to dig deeper behind the dash and see if maybe it's just a loose connection.
@@HumbleMechanic would love to see a dash disassembly video. I have to replace my heater core soon.
The common failure with the power pins on the module usually shows up first with a Right Rear sensor fault before it progresses to a faulty module.
For a moment I thought this was Aaron Kaufman from Fast n Loud
Fredl Madatt same thing I thought when I found the channel😂
Finally.... Thanks!
More mk3 videos!!
Would you take a commission to build a Golf A59 replica?, engine not to spec lol.
This is why I am glad my 1998 Jetta GL 2.0l. 5 speed doesnt have ABS. At 285,000+ miles I think I know everything thats wrong with it. Get to know your vehicle intimately.
Dont have to worry about abs problems if u dont have abs :D
Nothing I love more than seeing some AAA content! Even if it's about bad stuff :(.
You make me miss my white wookie, I would do a ABS delete, mk3 abs isn't that good anyway.
And would be better for scca events.
MK3 is much better than the Corrado ABS system...
@@davidkirsch94 that is true, but I would still delete it
Just had my ABS fixed on my 2013 Skoda fabia VRS (part of the VAG group). Car has been off the road for 4 weeks. £2100 later. It's fixed. I hope.
Ah the joys of buying second-hand things and slowly finding out what the previous owners had messed up!
It's also funny that the whole time he had the car he didn't check rear brakes and rotors? He has done so much to the car, front brake kit and leaving the rear untouched? That's almost like a bad practice.
Not a bad practice, just hadn’t got to that point yet. Did the fronts, found and issue and parked it. I don’t like overlapping mods if I can help it. That way if you do have an issue you have less to go back and check. Rear brakes were on the list from day one.
@@HumbleMechanic Well, yeah, it depends. As you said you had problems with wheels locking up and doing all the fun stuff, you might have had more to go if you would have been in a worse situation maybe, but you and the car is good, which is good.. also, I have a question about intercoolers on VR6 Turbo, um.. is intercooler necessary? How much boost do you think VR6 can run without an intercooler before it might start bringing up problems, or you will just get less performance by not adding that? My plan might be adding a turbo also but probably not going above 15psi in the long run. How much are you running and how does is feel? Horsepower figures?
That’s About the Psi I’m running. Guessing around 300WHP
I’d max at 6psj for no charge cooler
Don't delete the ABS, that's the hack way of solving the problem!
The ABS rings are dirt cheap, available. The ABS auto-bleed program should solve most issues
Got the rings coming. They were $20. Lol
@@HumbleMechanic Just be happy that the MK3s got the late-style ABS and not the MK2/B3/Corrado style which is impossible to find anywhere
Holy cow!!...that is a lot of problems with just a single system of one car!!🤣🤣🤣
Haha yep.
Don´t delete ABS. It can be quite useful.
I don't think I am. I found the power issue. LOL It was my fault.
@@HumbleMechanicthat's good to hear. Nothing worse than not finding a problem.
Maybe the bulb is burned out?... Maybe the person before you got tired of staring at the light with all of the problems and just took the bulb out!
that is very possible.
Imagine trying to explain that to a customer about their vehicle.
When you can see it, it's easy to explain. LOL
My Mk1 Jetta GLi Coupe "Güenter " just said to me now "Heir Mike, vats un ABS?" Told him not to worry about it - it's just something the young cars like to wear. He shrugged it off mumbling about how young cars got it too easy today. "Vhy back in un old days drivers had to pump der own brakes to stoppen!" 😁
Shouldn't the ABS light switch On when you switch the ignition ON? This means ABS check, like the airbag check? But, like i'v seen in a first gen Mazda 3 it has a very bad walkaround. Someone had connected the light to a relay and when the car ignition is On, the light stays on for a few seconds /like it should be/ and the off. You will think that it's all right, but No No, when you hook it up, the Airbag errors come on. Then you think to yourself, am I so dumb and did not see the light stay on after starting, well no. You just got screwed. So always hook the car to a diagnostic tool on inspection. I mean ok, hide an engine problem, a gearbox problem, exhaust, but an Airbag problem or a brake problem. This should be criminal imo.
Well that's the breaks of getting a used vehicle
ABS delete!
How to fix VW in few simple steps?
1. Grab a VW.
2. Throw it off the cliff.
3. Done.
:D
LOL
I thought there was a concensus to save the lock tight bolt and get ride of the V. W. a month ago
Not a fan, then?
@@dudley7540 No... not a fan of VW. I don't hate them, they were always meh for me. But, I love videos made by Charles :) They are super informative and made with passion. And you can apply that knowledge on other brands.
@@slay3rsaber definitely a fan of Charles. As for VW's.....most of the swearing coming from my garage involves V W's. I can't defend myself.
First 😀