Phew, I thought this was going to be bad issues. Happy to see how easy these minor problems are to fix. Once you work on a few engines you find easy ways to fix things. Glad to see your tackling this! Hope your enjoying it now!!
Thanks Neil. Its going in a new edge. I love kooks as they are on another build of mine but the price tag is too steep to justify on this car. At nearly $2,000, ill make what weve got work.
@@Madmaxxxx1984 Just the engine may go for 9k, but this is everything you need for 12k. it came with the transmission, computer, gas pedal, wiring harness, gauges, shifter, airbox, and a ton of other stuff.
The Ultimate Headers are expensive and a nightmare! One thing you missed. You probably haven’t run into yet is the steering shaft will clashed with cylinder #6 pipe. Also the transmission oil cooler tubes are right on the header. And the starter issues. My build is Gen 3 F150 with 10R80 in 2001 Mustang GT. I called Ultimate Headers for support. They were no help. Poor design.
I really want to swap a gen III with 10 speed into an '08 Mustang, thanks for the info. I really don't like the clearance issues with the headers, that collector on the drivers side looks like it is going to cook that linkage. As a welder/fabricator myself I wonder if making a bracket that mounts to one of the existing bolts on the transmission to cheat the collector over might be a good solution.
So I am trying to put a 2024 gen 4 coyote 5.0 into my 08 GT. This is my first ever swap. Everything I’m seeing says they don’t currently have a wiring harness that is plug and play for this. Any advice?
It sounds like your main issue is that new K member. I was told you have to replace the K member so the oil pan will fit. Your K member seems counterproductive. Are you certain they sent you the correct part? Its a cheap enough part to order another one from another company for comparison. Same with the headers. I heard Kooks fits a New Edge Coyote swap. What headers are those? BBK are not good if thats what they are.
I have a question about that shift linkage. Wouldn’t there be an option to have the car shift electronically? I thought that’s why PBH had a peddle included with the module harness they sell? I’m interested because I’m in the middle of this same project right now
I was able to get my k member to clear using the back holes . But the problem I’m facing is the sensor on rear driver side being way to close to fire wall to plug in did you run into this problem?
Good to know about the headers, are you guys trying to use the stock 19 computer for the swap? The 10r80 control pack is on backorder for the next decade it seems lol
@@803speed Yeah, Your the 4th person they sent control packs to that ordered them way after me. PBH has good service but not for me lol. They have had my 2500 for 6 months its super frustrating. makes me not even want to do the swap anymore and just sell everything and build a dart 363. They said next month now but my luck they will just forget about me like usual lol
Hey dude great info. I have a 88 lx vert aod bone stock car with 103,000 original miles on My little 302. Still runs like a scalded dog 🐕but I'm itching to coyote swap with a Gen 1 2 or 3 and 6r80 or 10r80 from the parts farm or midway mustang. Have u had any bad luck with those pallet motors or trans?? Thanks!
Well when you ordered your stuff from Paul by the hour you missed the bracket that they make a bracket specifically made to move your stock cable half an inch closer to your transmission probably not too many hours modifying cars but the first thing you should know is when you sit down and put together your budget for your build once you got it all written down nice take it crumpled up and throw it in the trash whatever you buy parts aftermarket stuff and custom stuff or whatever and it says bolt on and direct fit that means you have to customize grind cut been twist fabricate or inventory for it to fit I'm roughly around $50,000 into my coyote swap and I just started it for the first time couple days ago it is not my first build swap or customize car and I'm still pulling apart fuel system pulling the transmission out again just because I don't like how some things turned out it's supposed to be a pain in the dick that's why when it's all said and done sentimental value is far more than any price tag it's also why these professional car builders get 100K to build someone's car because it's a pain in the dick
Do you have an email I could pick your brain on this build? Doing the same build and have been waiting for my control pack from pbh for 6 months and they keep telling me its coming and then they send them out to everyone but me lol. But I went with kooks headers and Team Z k member.
Caution: Certain mustang parts suppliers sell front suspension components that are adequate for drag racing but NOT for street, autocross, and road course use. There's no getting around the fact that heavier front end loads require sturdier components.
@@803speed ok well my motor is allmost touching on the pasenger side well the header we had to bang the outside tube so it wouldnot touch and lot a room on driver side if i could move the motor 1inch itwould be ok
Sounds like another B.S line from PBH selling products and not being real with consumers! Just run factory headers and delete the cats , keep it three inch exhaust till you get mid way back and drop to 2.5 inch! You might loose a tenth of a second in the quarter mile at worst! Save your money!
Ultimate headers are fucking junk!!! I bought a set for my car for a 4r70w swap the headers aren't even close to fitting! The flanges aren't even indexed properly. For the cost of them i expect them to fit perfectly! I wish i would've found this video before i ordered these piles of shit.
Thank you, we just got a 59 Panel Truck, we have a gen 3 and here we go! I appreciate any and all information before the "hard way" lessons begin.
Thanks for the tips I’m doing a gen3 10r swap in my 87 notch and these will help a lot!
Phew, I thought this was going to be bad issues. Happy to see how easy these minor problems are to fix. Once you work on a few engines you find easy ways to fix things. Glad to see your tackling this! Hope your enjoying it now!!
Thanks for this info...I'm going Manual in a fox. For sure going with MM and BBK headers!
Not sure what you're swapping but if it's a fox body mustang Cook's actually makes a set of headers that clears the 10r80
Thanks Neil. Its going in a new edge. I love kooks as they are on another build of mine but the price tag is too steep to justify on this car. At nearly $2,000, ill make what weve got work.
I thought these kits were going around 8k from Ford ?? Why 12k with 12k miles ??? Everything is a price gouge in this market. ..wow..
What is the prices on then now??? For crate vs used ??
@@Madmaxxxx1984 Just the engine may go for 9k, but this is everything you need for 12k. it came with the transmission, computer, gas pedal, wiring harness, gauges, shifter, airbox, and a ton of other stuff.
This is the best swap period! Thanks for making this. Make a part 2 if you need to add more.
1. Buy an aftermarket oil pan so you won’t have to space your motor mounts.
2. Match your headers to the k member.
It’s not hard at all.
I used Maximum Motorsport K-Member and Kooks headers with my Gen 3 10R80 swap. No issues at all!
So the Gen3 oil pan fits with the Maximum Motorsports K? Or did you have to use spacers?
Are those BMR good??
Same here M&M k-member and kooks headers with my Gen 3 10R80 swap. No issues!
@@davidd3574 yes the oil pan will fit without any issues. I used maximum motor mounts also.
@@vchandl1 Thanks for verifying this. Nice to have 10 quarts of oil! 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice job explaining these issues. Thank you
Gen 1 and gen 2 6r80 is much easier. I like the 10r80 but cant wait when pbh make custom 10r80 kit tinstall on gen 1 and gen2.
So 90% of the problems are the headers. Note to self: Loose the headers.
Thank you brother. Look forward to your other videos on this swap.
The Ultimate Headers are expensive and a nightmare! One thing you missed. You probably haven’t run into yet is the steering shaft will clashed with cylinder #6 pipe. Also the transmission oil cooler tubes are right on the header. And the starter issues. My build is Gen 3 F150 with 10R80 in 2001 Mustang GT. I called Ultimate Headers for support. They were no help. Poor design.
Good call. Are you using the low profile shaft? I wanted the kooks but couldn’t find where anybody was using them with a 10r80
Wouldn’t matter the pipe is right in the way. I think Kooks might make a header for it.
Any updates on your install? Did the steering shaft clash with your headers? I was just wondering your solution?
Thanks
I had to "massage" the pipe a little bit so the shaft won't hit. I have the same ultimate headers on my fox. 10R80
I really want to swap a gen III with 10 speed into an '08 Mustang, thanks for the info. I really don't like the clearance issues with the headers, that collector on the drivers side looks like it is going to cook that linkage. As a welder/fabricator myself I wonder if making a bracket that mounts to one of the existing bolts on the transmission to cheat the collector over might be a good solution.
Great video man thanks for that very important information
So I am trying to put a 2024 gen 4 coyote 5.0 into my 08 GT. This is my first ever swap. Everything I’m seeing says they don’t currently have a wiring harness that is plug and play for this. Any advice?
GEN2 with ARH long (GEN1) had not issues 2+3!
hi i am going in a 2008 mustang s197.
It sounds like your main issue is that new K member. I was told you have to replace the K member so the oil pan will fit. Your K member seems counterproductive. Are you certain they sent you the correct part? Its a cheap enough part to order another one from another company for comparison. Same with the headers. I heard Kooks fits a New Edge Coyote swap. What headers are those? BBK are not good if thats what they are.
Coyote swaps are a nightmare and super expensive. Gonna go with an LS on my 72 F100.
I know that the swap headers are a must. How come stock headers cannot be used?
I have a question about that shift linkage. Wouldn’t there be an option to have the car shift electronically? I thought that’s why PBH had a peddle included with the module harness they sell? I’m interested because I’m in the middle of this same project right now
I was able to get my k member to clear using the back holes . But the problem I’m facing is the sensor on rear driver side being way to close to fire wall to plug in did you run into this problem?
Hey man, thank you for this video!
I'm just curious if an S650 Mustang V6 engine be swapped out with a Coyote. How what's involved?
This the price we pay when we do custom swap or custom conversions
how bad would it be to cut andweld the k member? like put a divot in the bar.. idk spacers sound like a good deal tho
Good to know about the headers, are you guys trying to use the stock 19 computer for the swap? The 10r80 control pack is on backorder for the next decade it seems lol
I was able to get my hands on a 10r80 control pack. Took about 12 weeks for me. Ordered thru PBH
@@803speed Yeah, Your the 4th person they sent control packs to that ordered them way after me. PBH has good service but not for me lol. They have had my 2500 for 6 months its super frustrating. makes me not even want to do the swap anymore and just sell everything and build a dart 363. They said next month now but my luck they will just forget about me like usual lol
Great video man!!! Very informative
Could this be done into a s197 mustang ?
Wow. Might need a heat shield for tge starter.
Could you just remove the ac compressor, move it to the side, then install the header?
Hey brother great info. Does the 803 mean you are in south carolina?
Yes, we’re just south of Florence
Any updates on your project? Video or pictures on these issues?
Hey dude great info. I have a 88 lx vert aod bone stock car with 103,000 original miles on My little 302. Still runs like a scalded dog 🐕but I'm itching to coyote swap with a Gen 1 2 or 3 and 6r80 or 10r80 from the parts farm or midway mustang. Have u had any bad luck with those pallet motors or trans?? Thanks!
Run OEM headers and save the headaches & $$.
Well when you ordered your stuff from Paul by the hour you missed the bracket that they make a bracket specifically made to move your stock cable half an inch closer to your transmission probably not too many hours modifying cars but the first thing you should know is when you sit down and put together your budget for your build once you got it all written down nice take it crumpled up and throw it in the trash whatever you buy parts aftermarket stuff and custom stuff or whatever and it says bolt on and direct fit that means you have to customize grind cut been twist fabricate or inventory for it to fit I'm roughly around $50,000 into my coyote swap and I just started it for the first time couple days ago it is not my first build swap or customize car and I'm still pulling apart fuel system pulling the transmission out again just because I don't like how some things turned out it's supposed to be a pain in the dick that's why when it's all said and done sentimental value is far more than any price tag it's also why these professional car builders get 100K to build someone's car because it's a pain in the dick
Now do a Coyote/New Edge V6 swap for dummies.
Anyone figure out how to wire the reverse lights on the 10R80 for a foxbody?
Do you have an email I could pick your brain on this build? Doing the same build and have been waiting for my control pack from pbh for 6 months and they keep telling me its coming and then they send them out to everyone but me lol. But I went with kooks headers and Team Z k member.
Shoot me a pm on my Facebook page @803speed
Was you mesage for me bro
Caution: Certain mustang parts suppliers sell front suspension components that are adequate for drag racing but NOT for street, autocross, and road course use. There's no getting around the fact that heavier front end loads require sturdier components.
Are you using the 4.6 motor mount
Yes
@@803speed ok well my motor is allmost touching on the pasenger side well the header we had to bang the outside tube so it wouldnot touch and lot a room on driver side if i could move the motor 1inch itwould be ok
Sounds like another B.S line from PBH selling products and not being real with consumers! Just run factory headers and delete the cats , keep it three inch exhaust till you get mid way back and drop to 2.5 inch! You might loose a tenth of a second in the quarter mile at worst! Save your money!
I am needing to know if a 1993 mustang 5.0 will work in a 1992 f150 5.0 and what needs to be changed
Ultimate headers are fucking junk!!! I bought a set for my car for a 4r70w swap the headers aren't even close to fitting! The flanges aren't even indexed properly. For the cost of them i expect them to fit perfectly! I wish i would've found this video before i ordered these piles of shit.