21 minutes? This video could definitely have been done in 5 minutes, max. It's so long that I could probably buy all of the components and tools needed to build this, build it, build and launch a rocket, recover the rocket, and then build another ignitor in the same time it takes this video to play.
like seriously guys stop crying. the video might run a little long, but it is super helpful and simple for people like me who don't know much about electricity, all the other videos show super complicated launch controllers.
I really like the use of an audio jack as a safety key, stuff like that shows how outside the box we can think. Looks good man, I'm making one right now just because i like the design. And I would take a longer video full of useful information (even if I already know most of it) over a video of someone trying to show off to people trying to learn something every time. Tutorials are for the people trying to learn the skill. They are not for you to display your skills like a science fair. You made a useful video, time is irrelevant.
The audio connector is clever idea. Use a wrist strap on your key. This way you can't walk away from the Launch Button and head to the rocket with it attached to your wrist. I would spend a few dollars more and get a low cost matched key/ignition switch from an auto parts store for about $10 USD and mount all of this in a small wooden box. Allowing wires to flop around at the solder joints (even with heat shrink tubing strain relief) will break in time. The last thing you need is a broken wire somewhere when you press the launch button. I have used those low cost buttons in the past, the high current used to launch may fuse the contacts together over time and you won't be able to tell. What could happen is the switch contacts stay connected and the rocket fires as soon as you plug in the key. Use a high quality push button switch that is rated for 15A or more for a good safety margin.
Great video. The way I make twisted pair (trio, whatever) wires is, I tie the wire ends together in a square knot. Hook it around a door knob (or bench vice), and walking away at a right angle from the knob, pull out all of the slack from the wires, trim even, and fold over the last inch of the wire and put that in the drill chuck and make it tight. Folding the wire gives the chuck more to grip, don't worry about damaging the wire. Keep the wires taught and run the drill at a moderate speed, walking towards the knot as the wires twist and shorten - but keep it taught! About 2 twists per inch is good. The direction does not matter (beleive me, I am an electrical engineer). But clockwise is the norm. Then, LATER NOT NOW the folded end at the chuck and the end with knot at the door knob will be cut off and thrown in your scrap wire box. If you don't have a drill, instead of folding the wires over, keep the wires about the same length and tie a square knot there too, insert a pencil, hold the wire together near the pencil, and wind the pencil around to twist the wires like you would do with a rubber band powered toy plane. If you keep the wire taught, there is no need for a helper to keep closing the distance, if the wires are parallel and taught, you will get uniform twists. I have done this hundreds of times. My designs are under the ocean, on the sea, on land, in the air, and in space. Never an issue. You may get slightly more twists per inch at about 6 inches on each end, but it is not critical in this application, you can leave it or clip it off LATER (and save in your scrap wire box). For non critical uniformity (all twists within eyeball looking the same is fine in this application). You are not making a communication cable, you are just twisting wires to hold them together. Sorry guys, you made making twisted pair way too difficult (you even suggest a 3rd person). Hold the wire firmly with one hand as you open the chuck. Put the drill down and with that hand hold it a couple of feet down from the end, slowly release your grip and let the wires untwist through your finger tips, it may unwind 10 or so times - the more you do this the better and faster you will get. I have NEVER seen making twisted pair by dropping it! Not to sound like troll, but the way I do it we were taught in the US Air Force and only requires one person.
Can a model rocket engine be ignited with a heated child water rather than one use home made match head igniter or estés igniter? Seems any vapor mod with a RDA could easily run longer leads to a small coil that will fit in the cavity. If it achieves sufficient temperature it should ignite. AM I WRONG?
Misleading title,. If I'm not mistaken, all you made was a "Hook-up" to a pair of alligator clips! The "IGNITER" is what we'd probably be more, (a lot more) interested in! You know, that "thingy" that actually touches, and ignites the motor???
Great video! I am glad you use the proper pronunciation of Estes [Ess'-tees]. BTW... Did you know that Ted Estes founded the company? He wanted to call it "Testes", but he didn't have the balls. [laugh, old rocket club from high school joke].
I shrink my heat shrink tubing the same way, but typical soldering irons are about 750 degrees F. Rubber based heat shrink tubing will melt at that temperature, but silcone/Teflon based heat shrink tubing will not melt from such a soldering iron. If the tubing starts to to smoke or burn, you will have to keep the soldering iron about 1mm away and not touch the tubing. If you are going to become an electronics hobbyist, it is best to buy a variable temperature/speed heat gun... like a little hair dryer on steroids.
Adam Yelland yeah lol, and the guy says when ppl told him where the igniter was: "You can buy it easily online, why make your own?" The worst is that he doesn't accept critics
When you have power in the circuit for the continuity check, why doesn't it set off the motor igniter? And can this be adapted for a 12 volt gel-cell battery?
I designed a dual deploy ejection Avionics Bay that checks for shorted and open igniters right on the rocket before you arm it. I will post the design with schematics soon. There are two circuits in parallel, one is through a 500 ohm resistor to the igniter and I measure the voltage across it to insure it is properly connected, open, or shorted. Not much current will flow through the 500 Ohms so the igniter won't even get warm. The other circuit to the igniter is through a high power transistor that when armed and you launch, the transistor turns on and a lot of current passes through to ignite the igniter. The unit constantly monitors the main engine igniter and the two ejection igniters before launch. If the green LED is on solid, the rocket is ready for launch, if something is wrong the LED will blink error codes and will disable launching. The unit has a low cost Adafruit Altimeter in it to automatically fire the parachute ejector igniters when the rocket reaches max altitude (apogee) and as it gets closer to the ground as it falls. It even records temperature and G forces during flight.
@TJ Robyns. Yes, a simple high current 10A voltage regulator can very added to reduce the voltage from 12V down to 9V and still provide the proper current. A low value resistor could get used instead, but it may cause some igniters to fire too quickly, or not fire at all. I can show you how to do this, just ask and I will post a video.
Painfully slow procedure. This is a one off construct. Not an industrial process. Additionally, no demonstration at the end. I did like the shorted guitar plug as a safety key, but instead of surveyors tape just string it around your neck. Then it will always be with you.
Your kidding right? This is supposed to be a comedy? Your teaching how to connect wires to a 9 volt battery?What a waste of server space!First: This is NOT an igniter. Just wires and a battery.Second> This is NOT electronic. to be "electronic you need at least 1 electronic component such as a transistor or diode.
HAHAHA! I was thinking the same thing. While I 100% appreciate DIY and MAKEing and all that, this is pretty elementary. If you can't figure out this kind of thing on your own, you should not be playing with explosive devices.
This is a complete waste of time... “How to make an igniter” And you show how to twist wires, add shrink tubing and hook up to a battery.... but no igniter!
This video needs to be trimmed to 3-5min. For example it should take 5-10sec to show the wire being twisted.
21 minutes? This video could definitely have been done in 5 minutes, max. It's so long that I could probably buy all of the components and tools needed to build this, build it, build and launch a rocket, recover the rocket, and then build another ignitor in the same time it takes this video to play.
I like the safety key idea, adds a nice touch. Put it all into one of those little hobby boxes and you've got a nice switch. Thanks.
like seriously guys stop crying. the video might run a little long, but it is super helpful and simple for people like me who don't know much about electricity, all the other videos show super complicated launch controllers.
I really like the use of an audio jack as a safety key, stuff like that shows how outside the box we can think. Looks good man, I'm making one right now just because i like the design.
And I would take a longer video full of useful information (even if I already know most of it) over a video of someone trying to show off to people trying to learn something every time. Tutorials are for the people trying to learn the skill. They are not for you to display your skills like a science fair. You made a useful video, time is irrelevant.
The audio connector is clever idea. Use a wrist strap on your key. This way you can't walk away from the Launch Button and head to the rocket with it attached to your wrist. I would spend a few dollars more and get a low cost matched key/ignition switch from an auto parts store for about $10 USD and mount all of this in a small wooden box. Allowing wires to flop around at the solder joints (even with heat shrink tubing strain relief) will break in time. The last thing you need is a broken wire somewhere when you press the launch button. I have used those low cost buttons in the past, the high current used to launch may fuse the contacts together over time and you won't be able to tell. What could happen is the switch contacts stay connected and the rocket fires as soon as you plug in the key. Use a high quality push button switch that is rated for 15A or more for a good safety margin.
this video should be like 8 minutes
I thought you referred to Alvin & Bobby as "the Twisted Pair"! 🙀😝
Great video......My next step is to make this........
Informative video
Speaker wire works well.
Great video. The way I make twisted pair (trio, whatever) wires is, I tie the wire ends together in a square knot. Hook it around a door knob (or bench vice), and walking away at a right angle from the knob, pull out all of the slack from the wires, trim even, and fold over the last inch of the wire and put that in the drill chuck and make it tight. Folding the wire gives the chuck more to grip, don't worry about damaging the wire. Keep the wires taught and run the drill at a moderate speed, walking towards the knot as the wires twist and shorten - but keep it taught! About 2 twists per inch is good. The direction does not matter (beleive me, I am an electrical engineer). But clockwise is the norm. Then, LATER NOT NOW the folded end at the chuck and the end with knot at the door knob will be cut off and thrown in your scrap wire box. If you don't have a drill, instead of folding the wires over, keep the wires about the same length and tie a square knot there too, insert a pencil, hold the wire together near the pencil, and wind the pencil around to twist the wires like you would do with a rubber band powered toy plane. If you keep the wire taught, there is no need for a helper to keep closing the distance, if the wires are parallel and taught, you will get uniform twists. I have done this hundreds of times. My designs are under the ocean, on the sea, on land, in the air, and in space. Never an issue. You may get slightly more twists per inch at about 6 inches on each end, but it is not critical in this application, you can leave it or clip it off LATER (and save in your scrap wire box). For non critical uniformity (all twists within eyeball looking the same is fine in this application). You are not making a communication cable, you are just twisting wires to hold them together. Sorry guys, you made making twisted pair way too difficult (you even suggest a 3rd person). Hold the wire firmly with one hand as you open the chuck. Put the drill down and with that hand hold it a couple of feet down from the end, slowly release your grip and let the wires untwist through your finger tips, it may unwind 10 or so times - the more you do this the better and faster you will get. I have NEVER seen making twisted pair by dropping it! Not to sound like troll, but the way I do it we were taught in the US Air Force and only requires one person.
Can a model rocket engine be ignited with a heated child water rather than one use home made match head igniter or estés igniter? Seems any vapor mod with a RDA could easily run longer leads to a small coil that will fit in the cavity. If it achieves sufficient temperature it should ignite. AM I WRONG?
This is rocket science, for sure.
Misleading title,. If I'm not mistaken, all you made was a "Hook-up" to a pair of alligator clips! The "IGNITER" is what we'd probably be more, (a lot more) interested in! You know, that "thingy" that actually touches, and ignites the motor???
Ignitors are av available for pennies, so why make your own? Plus, that means you would have to mess around with gunpowder. Fun, yes,but dangerous.
Robert F. Vieth Why do you make the cable then, it's even more easy to get twisted cable in any warehouse. Accept critics dude
Awesome video!
woww..
tomuch explaining man
Great video! I am glad you use the proper pronunciation of Estes [Ess'-tees]. BTW... Did you know that Ted Estes founded the company? He wanted to call it "Testes", but he didn't have the balls. [laugh, old rocket club from high school joke].
Vern Estes, the actual founder, introduced himself as vern Estes, not estees.
@@adventureswitharizonaart6117 Yes, he didn't even have the "balls" to pronounce his name properly. It was a joke you know [smile].
I shrink my heat shrink tubing the same way, but typical soldering irons are about 750 degrees F. Rubber based heat shrink tubing will melt at that temperature, but silcone/Teflon based heat shrink tubing will not melt from such a soldering iron. If the tubing starts to to smoke or burn, you will have to keep the soldering iron about 1mm away and not touch the tubing. If you are going to become an electronics hobbyist, it is best to buy a variable temperature/speed heat gun... like a little hair dryer on steroids.
can you make it little faster man
That was a launch controller, not an ignitor.
Does the igniter have to be 9 volts could I use a booster pack for a car battery to ignite the rocket engine
I felt like I was listening to Seth Rogen
Igniter or Launch controller??
20 mins to make an igniter, screw that I'm paying for the over priced ones that are way more than I need. Lol good tutorial though.
could just get some 2core wire from the same shop you bought the red and black wire. might save some work.
Adam Yelland yeah lol, and the guy says when ppl told him where the igniter was: "You can buy it easily online, why make your own?"
The worst is that he doesn't accept critics
When you have power in the circuit for the continuity check, why doesn't it set off the motor igniter? And can this be adapted for a 12 volt gel-cell battery?
The power used to check for continuity is not sufficient to fire the ignitor.
I designed a dual deploy ejection Avionics Bay that checks for shorted and open igniters right on the rocket before you arm it. I will post the design with schematics soon. There are two circuits in parallel, one is through a 500 ohm resistor to the igniter and I measure the voltage across it to insure it is properly connected, open, or shorted. Not much current will flow through the 500 Ohms so the igniter won't even get warm. The other circuit to the igniter is through a high power transistor that when armed and you launch, the transistor turns on and a lot of current passes through to ignite the igniter. The unit constantly monitors the main engine igniter and the two ejection igniters before launch. If the green LED is on solid, the rocket is ready for launch, if something is wrong the LED will blink error codes and will disable launching. The unit has a low cost Adafruit Altimeter in it to automatically fire the parachute ejector igniters when the rocket reaches max altitude (apogee) and as it gets closer to the ground as it falls. It even records temperature and G forces during flight.
@TJ Robyns. Yes, a simple high current 10A voltage regulator can very added to reduce the voltage from 12V down to 9V and still provide the proper current. A low value resistor could get used instead, but it may cause some igniters to fire too quickly, or not fire at all. I can show you how to do this, just ask and I will post a video.
There is a difference between electronical and electrical, this what you showed is electrical
Painfully slow procedure. This is a one off construct. Not an industrial process. Additionally, no demonstration at the end. I did like the shorted guitar plug as a safety key, but instead of surveyors tape just string it around your neck. Then it will always be with you.
Only kool thing is the wire twist,so speeditupskyyy
This is NOT about rocket "igniter", this is a video about building a rocket launch CONTROLLER! NOT a good controller either!
I wanted to learn how to make an igniter. Not a box to provide current to an igniter. False advertising.
I fell asleep
my god! this is primitive!
Hurry up with the wire twisting, eh!
People prefer a 5-10 min video for this topic. You r simply lagging so much. This could’ve been a 7-8 min video or even lesser.
Your kidding right? This is supposed to be a comedy? Your teaching how to connect wires to a 9 volt battery?What a waste of server space!First: This is NOT an igniter. Just wires and a battery.Second> This is NOT electronic. to be "electronic you need at least 1 electronic component such as a transistor or diode.
HAHAHA! I was thinking the same thing. While I 100% appreciate DIY and MAKEing and all that, this is pretty elementary. If you can't figure out this kind of thing on your own, you should not be playing with explosive devices.
This is a complete waste of time...
“How to make an igniter”
And you show how to twist wires, add shrink tubing and hook up to a battery.... but no igniter!
you are talking too much and not doing any thing.. but are you kidding us teaching to join the wire on 9 volt battery
so long
I did not post this video, so I do not know how it got to be public. And, ALL of you really need to get a life if this is all you can complain about.
calm down bud
Figure it out - Butter Bottom has no clue what she is doing .
Robert F. Vieth I thought it was very helpful
Where is the igniter??? All you made was a switch with a long wire!
Hello, can you sell me 200 / 500m here, fire slowly?
this is not a slow burning fuse. Jesus these vietcong still living in the cave
Horrible job of showing up close of what ur doing
woww..
tomuch explaining man