I've been watching your videos for some time. Today I found your website and read your story. Funny how a guy with a background like yours ends up doing auto diagnostics. I have an engineering degree and spent 40 years in manufacturing. Basically the last 15 years were miserable due to job creep. I grew up in a farming community and really loved working on the farms with my hands. That would of been a dream career for me but, not having a family farm to give you a leg up makes it difficult to get into. I enjoy electrical diagnostics and have a cheap scope and a fair launch scanner. I try to save myself and some family money by working on our vehicles for free. I was able to get a small farm right before I retired and tend to a small cattle herd. So glad to have people like you for a resource. Congratulations on your success and here's to many more years.
There are a lot of people that don't understand that a bad component on one branch of a circuit can completely kill another branch of the circuit. Great video.
Todays engineers probably didn't experience those early day mini Christmas tree lights that when one bulb burnt out, they all went out. They don't build them that way now for years so when one burns out the rest stay lit. I'm sure one extra wire to the harnesses would prevent that?
@@Michigan_Tactical My guess is another data signal that would by pass a bad module preventing data to continue from other sources. Is that called a daisey chain?
@@Garth2011 you're half right. A daisy chain is a series circuit. Like your old Christmas lights. Let's say you have 100 lights and each bulb draws 100ma at 1.2v (0.12 watts), by wiring them in series the total current draw for the string remains 100ma. The volts are divided between all the bulbs. If we measure the voltage across each bulb and then up we get 120v each bulb acts as a fuse. If the bulb burns out the circuit opens and we get no current flow. Work is done by watts and we figure watts by volts times current. We have a supply of 120v but current is zero. Anything time zero is zero. So we have no lights. If our bulb shorts. We still have a current current path. Each bulb still gets it's 100ma current. But our 120v is divided by the remaining 99 bulbs. The result is each bulb has more volts. So they burn brighter and hotter. If the volts is to high for bulb, it will burn out and go open. Like a fuse. So if the components in the car were daisy chained, the short wouldn't effect it like we saw. The other option is a parallel circuit. Or a ladder. In this circuit each component is connected to the same volts. But the current drawn by each component is determined by internal resistance. (Volts ÷ ohms = current (amps)) so the more components we add, the more current we draw. If our supply can give the voltage we need at the current we need, everything is happy. But now if we put an unwanted current path across any component we increase the total current draw. If the resistance of this unwanted path to ground is zero our voltage changes. To backwards. Remember our current in amps multiplied by resistance equals volts. Relevant math here is volts ÷ ohms = amps. If we have any resistance at all, we volts have current and we have watts. As resistance approaches zero the supply volts will drop. We have a very high current draw but extremely volts. The is a third circuit type. And it's series parallel. It's like ladders connected side by side. We could have a short that kills one complete ladder branch with minimal effect on the others branches. So what we had in this video was a short that brought the voltage down to where the other wouldn't function property but not enough to kill the entire branch. This is why we had a low voltage signal on the bus until the faulty module was disconnected.
@@Michigan_Tactical Understood...Not being the engineer, that's what I was envisioning, the "ladder" or parallel design. The dumbcoffs in auto electronics need to get with the program. I never noticed the public breaking down doors seeking this type of lunacy...in automotive
Ivan. I really enjoyed your diag on this vehicle. Very nice of you to give a shout-out to the guy and his "leak fix." But, as you are an honorable man, I'd would have expected nothing less. Your loyal follower, mike.
Just a note when applying silicone sealant. I use plain rubbing alcohol to clean the area before applying the silicone just to be on the safe side and it evaporates relitively fast. Also, if you ever run out of "dry gas" additive, rubbing alcohol at a ratio of 12oz to 10gals in the tank will also work as well. Great vid, Ivan! 👍
I leave my opened silicon and rtv tubes in the freezer and they don’t harden. When needed allow 5-10 minutes to defrost and use a normal then back in the freezer. An opened tube will last a year now. Good episode!
Its almost like adding the parts separately at an aftermarket shop is safer. Not surprizing your clients trust you to "do the rest" always great to see your logic and testing in action!
Yea I know SUN ignition. What I ment is there so many modules now interconnected and can bus issues, as noted 1 goes down it drags another one with it. Rear camera module , not as important as the heat and a/c (defroster]). Who would be looking at , unless you were Ivan. Dealers service technicians probably wouldn't have found it as quick as Ivan.
@@robertrousseau3361 I would say the wiring diagrams are most important. You could of used a meter if thats all you had where he has his scope. But if you dont have those maps you are not gonna find your way.
Mitchell DYI $ 20.00 for 30 days all you need for wiring diagrams. Most of us can't afford a pico, but if you have one and know how to use it , VOM can't come close to what you can see on a scope. That's all I am saying.
Great diagnosis Ivan; you are so much smarter than most mechanics at Nissan dealerships. They would have not found this problem and would have simply been firing the parts cannon hoping they eventually hit something. And the poor owner gets to pay for all the unnecessarily replaced parts that was not the problem to begin with.
The four hour drive for the owner, worth it for sure. Great call on googling leak and clever work around to use left over silicone. Great find of clean replacement module on ebay. Diagnosis not only leads to failed module, but why it failed. Yet again, NICE JOB!
Hi Ivan, Just a tip, after I use a tube of silicone sealant I clean the threads (alcohol, it's important to get most of the sealant off) and coat with wax from a candle. first warm the area with the flame and drip the melted wax over the area. I now have tubes that are still good after a very long time.
My favorite product for water intrusion prevention is polyurethane caulking. It is both adhesive and sealant, and quite cheap. Far as I know, version of it is used to attach windshield on cars. Beauty of it is that it remains elastic for many years, in case that there is some body flexing. It is also paintable, so it can be hidden easily.
Great diagnostic vid! Suggestion for you.... After opening a new tube of silicone, double-bag the remainder in zip-lock bags. That will slow the ingress of moisture that cures the silicone inside the tube. I can usually keep a tube viable for a year or more this way.
RTV tip: After opening, squeeze all the air from the open end, reinstall the cap, then refrigerate it. Will last for a very long time. Will also work for most adhesive items,
When plugged up, it is possible to clear the outlet with a tool while squeezing he tube. I prefer this to cutting the tube which will make it harden much faster (flowable non-acetic acid silicone type cures with moisture).
Great video and breakdown of that circuit! I have a lexus here that’s turning into a water damage nightmare and videos like this help me tremendously! Thanks as always Ivan!
Good job Ivan, have a little tip on those used silicone sealer tubes, after useing them pack the end cap with silicone grease or vaseline. Then when you want to use it just squeeze out the grease and your good to go.
Ivan you make this look so simple. Wish I had RUclips 40 years ago when I was a dealer tech. It’s now a valuable tool for me with my own shop. I would love to spend a week or two as your shadow.
Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure might have been a good product to apply before the silicone. It is a liquid sealant used on RVs and it wicks itself into small spaces and seals them. Nice diagnosis as always. 👍
Your diagnostic skills are second to no one. Another excellent video! One wonders why the camera module wasn't sealed better if it was in or near an outside panel.
Great video nice work! I own a 2011 Murano your videos are great info. Especially on this rear water intrusion. I change my trans fluid almost as often as my oil changed. I am at 150k Hoping it will keep going with that kind of care. Thanks for you Channel!
Is nice to fix a car that you had similer problem in the past!! Green crusties bringing down the network!! Wow. Nice fix on the sealant on the edges to stop the leaks! Great to see others to help other to see the fix!! Nice job Ivan! Now you have more experience to do more muranos to fix lol. Hopefully without a scope as you can find the crusties on the plugs lol 😆 great video! Many thumbs up! 👍
IVAN, Great fix/Awesome approach to find the bad module you always amaze me with ur thought process thanks for sharing always learning from the best of the best like you self cheeeeeeers from ONT/CANADA.
Great diagnostic, Ivan! Seems water intrusion in the trunk is the cause of some very odd faults in these multi-module cars. Those cracked seems show that cars are no longer made to last.
Ivan, I really like the way you were able to drill down on system using the schematic and then view how it was working with your PICO scope. I also appreciate every time you include those waveforms with your video. Thanks for Sharing!
Ivan I'm so blessed to have you in my life! You are so smart! Because of you I've been able to fix my truck and my handicapped friends jeep so he could get back on the road again!! Thank you!!!
I remember that last Nissan Murano you repaired. I was going to make a joke about the transmission; you beat me to it. This "free" car cost about $5,300.00 for that transmission and your repairs. Those Nissan transmissions fail at an alarming rate. Great video!
If i ever have a car issue i will have to take a drive from Canada to pay u a visit. No mechanic i know here is capable of doing what you do. Your work is incredible!
HI IVAN,another great video on a problem that is becoming more and more common.This guy fired the parts cannon BEFORE he got his TARGET in range.haha YOU show why it is so important to LOOK at a map before driving from Calif to NY to get your car repaired.Yes a map is needed.I just repair my 94 Honda civic that has water intrusion that rusted my fuel pump relay.The same relay that 15 years ago i repaired a CRACKED COLD solider joint on.Car still running with 540,000 miles.Now the clear coat needs work,and i need to get that sealer for my windshield since I'm on my 3rd one,and it leaks now.
Man oh Man! You don't get the easy ones. I am in Canada and have a 1995 Ford E-150 Club van, I'd like to have you diagnose the 15 to 16 MPG fuel issue. I love the deep diagnostics you get into.
Totally different car, different country, but I had the same issue with mine. I don't normally use my boot/trunk, so when I went to check my spare tyre, for the cars annual test, I found it had it's own swimming pool. I spent ages trying to find the leak, as it was only a small one, and eventually found that the seam sealer at the top of my hatchback had dried out and cracked. A liberal dose of silicone later and the boot is as dry as a bone. What ever happed to the really gummy seam sealer of old that didn't dry out and crack?? Re 17:29, I'm guessing, thanks to you, that anyone with a Murano, and this fault can skip the scope and circuit drawings, and jump straight to ripping out their reverse camera, and checking for leaks... Great job Ivan!! Quick tip on the silicone, if the top of the tube has cured, put it into a small syringe, it makes it way easier to apply in tight spaces
New subscriber here. Great diag and fix, Ivan. I loved your comment about a non-functioning back up camera being “First World” problem. But I am glad the owner let you fix it … giving us the great bonus footage.
I had a washing machine with a similar problem, they mounted the control board directly under the soap dispenser. WHAT THE HELL ARE THESE MANUFACTURERS THINKING !! (IMO planned obsolescence) Nice diag Ivan, great work.
a necessary evil of modern complex systems is a multifunction comm bus. A properly designed system [some more intelligent than others] would accommodate a soft-fail mode, preventing a single point failure from bringing-down an entire network. Good work on this; it's always nice when you can leverage past experience, eh?
Good one Ivan. Ivan to the rescue, scope to the find. Communication lines are so low voltage and current anything can shut down that system. There needs to be more protection for CAN, other communication lines and the modules where they're located. I can only imagine the length and how the comm lines are wrapped in the harness.
Once again, Ivan the Amazing comes through ! After watching so many of these, I am confident it would be worth the drive from Nova Scotia if I ever needed to😀
I have done preventative magic box maintenance many times on wiper motor controllers, AC controllers, AV modules like this one, amplifiers in the trunk etc etc.. split open the plastic or metal case and seal top and both sides. I usually leave bottom open to allow for drain. Best stuff I have found is one of the Sikaflex sealants that is popular with boat owners for setting window panels and sealing sailboat masts
Had the same issue with Toyota harrier with water leaking on to rear module. Know you've shown the entry point of the leaking roof Good information and keep going
Thus is excellent. And I love bonus footage. This year, I hope to use whst I've learned from your channel to finally fix my air bag and rear AC. My 2004 Suburban has had the airbag light on for years now. It started intermittently when I first bought it used in 2005. Then about 8 years ago it stayed on. I found a dealer fix that I corrected (they cut out the yellow safety connector for the driver air bag) but that didn't fix it. More recently (past 3 years) the rear air started working intermittently then stopped working all together. Also, the front air mixer door doesn't work but I've tested the actuator and it works fine.
Hi Ivan, once you open the silicone if you put a dab of grease or Vaseline on the opening then put the cap on it will prevent the silicone from getting hard. Great videos
Another job well done Ivan. I hope folks get the hint about taking notes to keep you on track while diagnosing the root cause. I was hoping you would pull out the flowable silicone and I was not disappointed. I am disappointed in Nissan not having weep holes in that rear skirt panel since it has a unsealed module in it. I would have coated the circuit board in the camera module with clear Krylon and applied dielectric grease to both sides of the harness connector. I am a belt and suspenders guy, can you tell?
Excellent video, as always. Interesting to see, that as vehicles get more complex with computers, a flat line on a data stream, can take out so many functions. Just a shame that circuit diagrams are kept secret, or behind paywall. Even amateurs with a little knowledge can by stumped, by finding data. It is also very annoying, that some high end vehicles, like BMW and Mercedes, need individual modules programmed by the stealers, before they can work.
DAP “Clear Paintable Silicone Caulk” is an excellent sealer and adhesive as well .. great for sealing/resealing windshields at the bottom/cowl joint leaks .. it sticks like a banshee, even when you can’t get the area as clean as you’d like.
I saw a similar video where the control unit in the rear quarter had corrosion and it was possibly caused by the sunroof drains being blocked so the water ran into the rear section. If there's no sunroof check the rear hatch seal.
Hi Ivan, A-1 detective work. It's amazing how the CAN bus can be brought down by the various modules. Nice water repair using Google to find a RUclips solution. You and your family stay safe.
Having spent a few years in the auto glass industry, I strongly advise against the use of silicone products to seal supposed glass leaks, and the fact that this product exists is rather frustrating. Silicone is incompatible with the urethane adhesives used to install auto glass, and it's also really good at attracting, trapping and retaining moisture, causing rust to develop underneath. Chances are, if you have a leak around your urethane-sealed glass, and that glass has not been replaced, it's not what's leaking. In the rare cases where it is, it's due to delamination of the factory adhesive (there was a change in the process in the mid to late 2000s to early 2010s), and no amount of user-applied sealant will be effective.
I had water damage to my immobilizer module from an ongoing trunk leak. Water pooling in a sealed well for the spare wheel. I carefully drilled drain holes into the plastic well to allow for permanent drainage through the car. I advise everyone to carefully drill drainage holes just in case of water ingress - Simple and effective.
Great Video Ivan, we just bought a 2009 Murano LE Bose with Nav with 68,000 miles. Super clean, but the screen doesn't work and no buttons work. The HVAC works, just can't change it. Luckily it appears to be set at a temperature (i.e. 70 degrees), so we get A/C in heat. The buttons do light up with headlight switch, but again none of them do anything. I will try so tests and see what could be wrong. Finger crossed not too hard and I can find the problem.
@@tremaynedixon4586 Yes, I figured it out after I had to take it to dealership. It was a couple of things. One the controller or computer under back row passenger seat was bad, and then one of the pins was bent on the connectors to the radio under dash.
Just this week I had a ML350 with CAN network pulled to ground preventing starting and numerous issues. The amplifier had water intrusion from the cracked tail light. Disconnected amp and put some RTV on the Crack for the tail light for a temp fix. Started right up after Amp was disconnected
My guess is the assembly line "robot" wasn't programed correct to supply the right amount of body sealant via volume and/or path to apply it. If not that, a simple product defect. Water got in...humidity is what damage the control board components. Great find Ivan...
As always Nice job Ivan. I’ve simply got to knock another one out of my bucket wish list and invest in a scope, which I know it will take a good bit of time and learning for Me to even figure out how to use, but what the heck. I know the Pico is for sure tried and true, but I’m considering getting the one that goes with the Thinktool. Been researching and they seem to have pretty good reviews so far. If I do get it, perhaps I’ll drop it off at the PHAD and have it properly checked out and trained and get an actual give it a go review!
Here's a tip for using tubes of silicone and the likes - if you have a food saver or seal a meal, (food saver works best since it vacuums out the air) after opening and using your tube, put it into a bag and seal it. Not a guaranteed 100% fix, but I've had tubes last me for several months this way. Not an issue for something you use all the time, but for those once in a while use items, it may make the difference of having to buy a new tube every time you need it.
Thanks for another very informative video. This customer was able to do this level of disassembly and swapping before bringing it in, so I wonder if it would have been worth it for the customer to buy short term access to repair data from Alldata DIY or something like that, in this case.
Hi Ivan, You can try to take some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and clean off the corrosion and see if the module springs back to life. Many laptops with water damage are serviced with simple alcohol scrub. I have never tried, but you might also be able to use your deoxit stuff to get that corrosion off the circuit board. My guess is the board is fine but some leads are shorting out.
I would have done the same, but guess the customer wanted new. If it worked after cleaning, being an electronics nerd I would have installed new electrolytics and buttoned it up.
Finding water leaks is the worst. The water can track quite a distance from the actual source. I lost count of the number of hours I spent upside down with a torch in footwells and sedan trunks as an apprentice. 18:46 I think that's probably Miami...FYR
You've just got to love the Plug and Play friendliness of Asian cars. That module on a German car would've required programming/adaptation 🤦. Wiring diagrams all the way!
You demonstrated a really impressive mastery of automotive communication bus circuitry in this video, Ivan! A veritable tour de force on the subject. Very well done.
I once owned an Eclipse. It devolved a leak like in this video. Upon inspection I discovered that the rear window trim was held on by clips that passed right through the sheet metal. But under each clip was a gray foam gasket. How long does a foam gasket last? About five years is the answer - then it turns to dust.
Hey Ivan; in your experience, do you think would it make any sense to coat those circuit boards with a silicone base conformal coating? I'd bet money the manufacturers didn't do too much of that, as that stuff can be pricey.
I wonder why the manufacturers haven't gone to Fiber-optic networks. Then the only copper wiring that is needed to be distributed throughout the vehicle would be 12vdc and ground (and then with a good fusing plan it should be relatively easy to troubleshot power distribution issues) and then when a device or fiber to copper adapter goes down it isn't likely to take out a complete network. I would assume that the price difference is probably at parity (copper pricing can be pretty volatile and I'm guessing fiber is probably pretty stable).
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I've been watching your videos for some time. Today I found your website and read your story. Funny how a guy with a background like yours ends up doing auto diagnostics. I have an engineering degree and spent 40 years in manufacturing. Basically the last 15 years were miserable due to job creep. I grew up in a farming community and really loved working on the farms with my hands. That would of been a dream career for me but, not having a family farm to give you a leg up makes it difficult to get into. I enjoy electrical diagnostics and have a cheap scope and a fair launch scanner. I try to save myself and some family money by working on our vehicles for free. I was able to get a small farm right before I retired and tend to a small cattle herd.
So glad to have people like you for a resource. Congratulations on your success and here's to many more years.
Enjoy your well-deserved retirement and farm sir.
Wow Ivan! Even after watching you for years, you still amaze me! You make it look so easy, but we know it's not. Excellence as always!
After the Maserati timing job everything seems pretty easy 😅
I can imagine that😮as you did a brilliant job on it , but having said that you do a brilliant job on everything I’ve seen 👍👍👍😀
There are a lot of people that don't understand that a bad component on one branch of a circuit can completely kill another branch of the circuit.
Great video.
Todays engineers probably didn't experience those early day mini Christmas tree lights that when one bulb burnt out, they all went out. They don't build them that way now for years so when one burns out the rest stay lit. I'm sure one extra wire to the harnesses would prevent that?
@@Garth2011 I can try to give a brief explanation if you would.
@@Michigan_Tactical My guess is another data signal that would by pass a bad module preventing data to continue from other sources. Is that called a daisey chain?
@@Garth2011 you're half right. A daisy chain is a series circuit. Like your old Christmas lights. Let's say you have 100 lights and each bulb draws 100ma at 1.2v (0.12 watts), by wiring them in series the total current draw for the string remains 100ma. The volts are divided between all the bulbs. If we measure the voltage across each bulb and then up we get 120v each bulb acts as a fuse. If the bulb burns out the circuit opens and we get no current flow.
Work is done by watts and we figure watts by volts times current. We have a supply of 120v but current is zero. Anything time zero is zero. So we have no lights.
If our bulb shorts. We still have a current current path. Each bulb still gets it's 100ma current. But our 120v is divided by the remaining 99 bulbs. The result is each bulb has more volts. So they burn brighter and hotter. If the volts is to high for bulb, it will burn out and go open. Like a fuse.
So if the components in the car were daisy chained, the short wouldn't effect it like we saw.
The other option is a parallel circuit. Or a ladder. In this circuit each component is connected to the same volts. But the current drawn by each component is determined by internal resistance. (Volts ÷ ohms = current (amps)) so the more components we add, the more current we draw. If our supply can give the voltage we need at the current we need, everything is happy.
But now if we put an unwanted current path across any component we increase the total current draw. If the resistance of this unwanted path to ground is zero our voltage changes. To backwards. Remember our current in amps multiplied by resistance equals volts.
Relevant math here is volts ÷ ohms = amps.
If we have any resistance at all, we volts have current and we have watts. As resistance approaches zero the supply volts will drop.
We have a very high current draw but extremely volts.
The is a third circuit type. And it's series parallel. It's like ladders connected side by side. We could have a short that kills one complete ladder branch with minimal effect on the others branches.
So what we had in this video was a short that brought the voltage down to where the other wouldn't function property but not enough to kill the entire branch.
This is why we had a low voltage signal on the bus until the faulty module was disconnected.
@@Michigan_Tactical Understood...Not being the engineer, that's what I was envisioning, the "ladder" or parallel design. The dumbcoffs in auto electronics need to get with the program. I never noticed the public breaking down doors seeking this type of lunacy...in automotive
Another outstanding diagnosis and solution. That 4 hour ride was so well worth it. Happy for this owner. Greetings from New Jersey.
Ivan. I really enjoyed your diag on this vehicle. Very nice of you to give a shout-out to the guy and his "leak fix." But, as you are an honorable man, I'd would have expected nothing less. Your loyal follower, mike.
Just a note when applying silicone sealant. I use plain rubbing alcohol to clean the area before applying the silicone just to be on the safe side and it evaporates relitively fast. Also, if you ever run out of "dry gas" additive, rubbing alcohol at a ratio of 12oz to 10gals in the tank will also work as well. Great vid, Ivan! 👍
I leave my opened silicon and rtv tubes in the freezer and they don’t harden. When needed allow 5-10 minutes to defrost and use a normal then back in the freezer. An opened tube will last a year now. Good episode!
Its almost like adding the parts separately at an aftermarket shop is safer. Not surprizing your clients trust you to "do the rest" always great to see your logic and testing in action!
I guess all new cars should come with a scope and a training corse on how to use it and interpret it.
Always great videos. Keep up the great work!
That's silly. Automotive scopes have been a thing since the days of points and condensers, why start now?
Yea I know SUN ignition. What I ment is there so many modules now interconnected and can bus issues, as noted 1 goes down it drags another one with it. Rear camera module , not as important as the heat and a/c (defroster]). Who would be looking at , unless you were Ivan. Dealers service technicians probably wouldn't have found it as quick as Ivan.
@@robertrousseau3361 I would say the wiring diagrams are most important.
You could of used a meter if thats all you had where he has his scope.
But if you dont have those maps you are not gonna find your way.
Mitchell DYI $ 20.00 for 30 days all you need for wiring diagrams. Most of us can't afford a pico, but if you have one and know how to use it , VOM can't come close to what you can see on a scope.
That's all I am saying.
@@robertrousseau3361 Right on man, have a good one.
Great diagnosis Ivan; you are so much smarter than most mechanics at Nissan dealerships. They would have not found this problem and would have simply been firing the parts cannon hoping they eventually hit something. And the poor owner gets to pay for all the unnecessarily replaced parts that was not the problem to begin with.
The four hour drive for the owner, worth it for sure. Great call on googling leak and clever work around to use left over silicone. Great find of clean replacement module on ebay. Diagnosis not only leads to failed module, but why it failed. Yet again, NICE JOB!
I’m just taking care of my own and family’s cars. But i’ve learned sooo much from watching your videos!
Hi Ivan, Just a tip, after I use a tube of silicone sealant I clean the threads (alcohol, it's important to get most of the sealant off) and coat with wax from a candle. first warm the area with the flame and drip the melted wax over the area. I now have tubes that are still good after a very long time.
Good idea I leave the nozzle on and use electrical tape to seal the end of the nozzle seems to work
Thank you! Great idea! Do you light a candle and drip the wax in?
@@dans_Learning_Curve yes
@@gazoline7093 HI I tried that but I still had it harden in the tube.
I've wrapped a sandwichbag around the tip and wound a tight rubber band around it. Works after months.
My favorite product for water intrusion prevention is polyurethane caulking. It is both adhesive and sealant, and quite cheap. Far as I know, version of it is used to attach windshield on cars. Beauty of it is that it remains elastic for many years, in case that there is some body flexing. It is also paintable, so it can be hidden easily.
Great diagnostic vid! Suggestion for you.... After opening a new tube of silicone, double-bag the remainder in zip-lock bags. That will slow the ingress of moisture that cures the silicone inside the tube. I can usually keep a tube viable for a year or more this way.
RTV tip: After opening, squeeze all the air from the open end, reinstall the cap, then refrigerate it. Will last for a very long time. Will also work for most adhesive items,
When plugged up, it is possible to clear the outlet with a tool while squeezing he tube. I prefer this to cutting the tube which will make it harden much faster (flowable non-acetic acid silicone type cures with moisture).
I found this also works very well for C.A glue (crazy Glue) greatly extends the shelf life 👍
Good stuff. A pop sickle stick works great for manipulating the silicone. Well done Ivan. You make it look easy.
Great video and breakdown of that circuit! I have a lexus here that’s turning into a water damage nightmare and videos like this help me tremendously! Thanks as always Ivan!
Damn. Lexus' are supposed to be bullet proof. Good luck.
@@TheFrenchPug lol I’ll need that! Thanks!! I got it tho. I’ll figure it out! ✊🏾
Is that a flood car Greg?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yes it is! 😭
@@gregjones8501 crush it lol
Good job Ivan, have a little tip on those used silicone sealer tubes, after useing them pack the end cap with silicone grease or vaseline. Then when you want to use it just squeeze out the grease and your good to go.
Ivan you make this look so simple. Wish I had RUclips 40 years ago when I was a dealer tech. It’s now a valuable tool for me with my own shop. I would love to spend a week or two as your shadow.
Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure might have been a good product to apply before the silicone. It is a liquid sealant used on RVs and it wicks itself into small spaces and seals them.
Nice diagnosis as always. 👍
Your diagnostic skills are second to no one. Another excellent video! One wonders why the camera module wasn't sealed better if it was in or near an outside panel.
I'm surprised he didn't seal up the new one.
Great video nice work!
I own a 2011 Murano your videos are great info. Especially on this rear water intrusion.
I change my trans fluid almost as often as my oil changed. I am at 150k Hoping it will keep going with that kind of care.
Thanks for you Channel!
Is nice to fix a car that you had similer problem in the past!! Green crusties bringing down the network!! Wow. Nice fix on the sealant on the edges to stop the leaks! Great to see others to help other to see the fix!! Nice job Ivan! Now you have more experience to do more muranos to fix lol. Hopefully without a scope as you can find the crusties on the plugs lol 😆 great video! Many thumbs up! 👍
IVAN, Great fix/Awesome approach to find the bad module you always amaze me with ur thought process thanks for sharing always learning from the best of the best like you self cheeeeeeers from ONT/CANADA.
Great diagnostic, Ivan! Seems water intrusion in the trunk is the cause of some very odd faults in these multi-module cars. Those cracked seems show that cars are no longer made to last.
Ivan, I really like the way you were able to drill down on system using the schematic and then view how it was working with your PICO scope. I also appreciate every time you include those waveforms with your video. Thanks for Sharing!
Ivan I'm so blessed to have you in my life! You are so smart! Because of you I've been able to fix my truck and my handicapped friends jeep so he could get back on the road again!! Thank you!!!
So happy to hear that Roxanne! Hope your 2023 is going well 🙂
I remember that last Nissan Murano you repaired. I was going to make a joke about the transmission; you beat me to it. This "free" car cost about $5,300.00 for that transmission and your repairs. Those Nissan transmissions fail at an alarming rate. Great video!
You are the men. I love to work on my vehicles and very capable, but there is no way I could able to fix something like this without the knowledge
Sad the owner replaced two parts that were probably good. Great repair. I see Nissan has connections with Tetley Tea
If i ever have a car issue i will have to take a drive from Canada to pay u a visit. No mechanic i know here is capable of doing what you do. Your work is incredible!
HI IVAN,another great video on a problem that is becoming more and more common.This guy fired the parts cannon BEFORE he got his TARGET in range.haha YOU show why it is so important to LOOK at a map before driving from Calif to NY to get your car repaired.Yes a map is needed.I just repair my 94 Honda civic that has water intrusion that rusted my fuel pump relay.The same relay that 15 years ago i repaired a CRACKED COLD solider joint on.Car still running with 540,000 miles.Now the clear coat needs work,and i need to get that sealer for my windshield since I'm on my 3rd one,and it leaks now.
As always Ivan, another excellent diagnostic! Thank you for sharing!
Man oh Man! You don't get the easy ones. I am in Canada and have a 1995 Ford E-150 Club van, I'd like to have you diagnose the 15 to 16 MPG fuel issue. I love the deep diagnostics you get into.
Road trip
What is the mpg supposed to be? That seems typical for a Ford van or truck to me.
@@tonyb1968 We take a few!! Thanks!
@@TheFrenchPug Yeah ya got me! I'd still like it "fixed"
Totally different car, different country, but I had the same issue with mine. I don't normally use my boot/trunk, so when I went to check my spare tyre, for the cars annual test, I found it had it's own swimming pool. I spent ages trying to find the leak, as it was only a small one, and eventually found that the seam sealer at the top of my hatchback had dried out and cracked. A liberal dose of silicone later and the boot is as dry as a bone. What ever happed to the really gummy seam sealer of old that didn't dry out and crack??
Re 17:29, I'm guessing, thanks to you, that anyone with a Murano, and this fault can skip the scope and circuit drawings, and jump straight to ripping out their reverse camera, and checking for leaks...
Great job Ivan!! Quick tip on the silicone, if the top of the tube has cured, put it into a small syringe, it makes it way easier to apply in tight spaces
New subscriber here. Great diag and fix, Ivan. I loved your comment about a non-functioning back up camera being “First World” problem. But I am glad the owner let you fix it … giving us the great bonus footage.
I had a washing machine with a similar problem, they mounted the control board directly under the soap dispenser. WHAT THE HELL ARE THESE MANUFACTURERS THINKING !! (IMO planned obsolescence) Nice diag Ivan, great work.
a necessary evil of modern complex systems is a multifunction comm bus. A properly designed system [some more intelligent than others] would accommodate a soft-fail mode, preventing a single point failure from bringing-down an entire network. Good work on this; it's always nice when you can leverage past experience, eh?
Typical Nissan crap.
Good one Ivan. Ivan to the rescue, scope to the find. Communication lines are so low voltage and current anything can shut down that system. There needs to be more protection for CAN, other communication lines and the modules where they're located.
I can only imagine the length and how the comm lines are wrapped in the harness.
Wow. Ivan. Nice technician 👏👏👍amazin
Another brilliant diagnostic. The water leak fix was also brilliant. Just another instance of quality control swirling down the toilet.
your patience and knowledge is impressive
Once again, Ivan the Amazing comes through ! After watching so many of these, I am confident it would be worth the drive from Nova Scotia if I ever needed to😀
I have done preventative magic box maintenance many times on wiper motor controllers, AC controllers, AV modules like this one, amplifiers in the trunk etc etc.. split open the plastic or metal case and seal top and both sides. I usually leave bottom open to allow for drain. Best stuff I have found is one of the Sikaflex sealants that is popular with boat owners for setting window panels and sealing sailboat masts
Had the same issue with Toyota harrier with water leaking on to rear module.
Know you've shown the entry point of the leaking roof
Good information and keep going
Excellent diagnosis! It's all about the schematics and scope!
Ivan you are the best you need a bigger shop you probably don't charge enough you are the best electrical trouble shooter I've seen love your videos
Thanks John 🙂
I was just thinking about the Mercedes . Nice work .
Thus is excellent. And I love bonus footage. This year, I hope to use whst I've learned from your channel to finally fix my air bag and rear AC.
My 2004 Suburban has had the airbag light on for years now. It started intermittently when I first bought it used in 2005. Then about 8 years ago it stayed on. I found a dealer fix that I corrected (they cut out the yellow safety connector for the driver air bag) but that didn't fix it. More recently (past 3 years) the rear air started working intermittently then stopped working all together. Also, the front air mixer door doesn't work but I've tested the actuator and it works fine.
For the airbag try unplugging and plugging in the airbag module... That was one of my very first videos!
Wow Ivan you are a Master of Diag great work.
Hi Ivan, once you open the silicone if you put a dab of grease or Vaseline on the opening then put the cap on it will prevent the silicone from getting hard. Great videos
Good job Ivan.
Another job well done Ivan. I hope folks get the hint about taking notes to keep you on track while diagnosing the root cause. I was hoping you would pull out the flowable silicone and I was not disappointed. I am disappointed in Nissan not having weep holes in that rear skirt panel since it has a unsealed module in it. I would have coated the circuit board in the camera module with clear Krylon and applied dielectric grease to both sides of the harness connector. I am a belt and suspenders guy, can you tell?
I am continually fascinated and amazed at your abilities for stuff like this. I’m assuming you are self taught over time and multiple vehicles?.
Excellent video, as always. Interesting to see, that as vehicles get more complex with computers, a flat line on a data stream, can take out so many functions. Just a shame that circuit diagrams are kept secret, or behind paywall. Even amateurs with a little knowledge can by stumped, by finding data. It is also very annoying, that some high end vehicles, like BMW and Mercedes, need individual modules programmed by the stealers, before they can work.
As always, we learn something new!
DAP “Clear Paintable Silicone Caulk” is an excellent sealer and adhesive as well .. great for sealing/resealing windshields at the bottom/cowl joint leaks .. it sticks like a banshee, even when you can’t get the area as clean as you’d like.
I saw a similar video where the control unit in the rear quarter had corrosion and it was possibly caused by the sunroof drains being blocked so the water ran into the rear section. If there's no sunroof check the rear hatch seal.
You are the Murano guru, PHAD Finds the issue!
Hi Ivan,
A-1 detective work. It's amazing how the CAN bus can be brought down by the various modules. Nice water repair using Google to find a RUclips solution. You and your family stay safe.
you make it look too easy, Ivan! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Oh those damn "Green Crusties!" Bravo! Well done dude. 😎
Excellent diag, very knowledgable
Having spent a few years in the auto glass industry, I strongly advise against the use of silicone products to seal supposed glass leaks, and the fact that this product exists is rather frustrating. Silicone is incompatible with the urethane adhesives used to install auto glass, and it's also really good at attracting, trapping and retaining moisture, causing rust to develop underneath.
Chances are, if you have a leak around your urethane-sealed glass, and that glass has not been replaced, it's not what's leaking. In the rare cases where it is, it's due to delamination of the factory adhesive (there was a change in the process in the mid to late 2000s to early 2010s), and no amount of user-applied sealant will be effective.
Was not a glass area. Leaking at the factory seam sealer. I thought of that too. Apply urethane.
Black, plastic gutter sealant has worked perfectly for me over the last 30 years ! (no idea what it is !)
Sweet vid Ivan. Good info on the scope & wiring diagram. I don't think it could've been done any other way. Thanks for sharing
After seeing your vid I looked in the boot (trunk) of my volvo and yes water ! Ray uk...
I keep preaching no diagram to use is like throwing darts blind folded. Nice job my friend.
Excellent work!
I had water damage to my immobilizer module from an ongoing trunk leak. Water pooling in a sealed well for the spare wheel. I carefully drilled drain holes into the plastic well to allow for permanent drainage through the car. I advise everyone to carefully drill drainage holes just in case of water ingress - Simple and effective.
I’ve seen surface rust behind the dashboard from the RR widow seal leaking on different Nissan vehicles
Great Video Ivan, we just bought a 2009 Murano LE Bose with Nav with 68,000 miles. Super clean, but the screen doesn't work and no buttons work. The HVAC works, just can't change it. Luckily it appears to be set at a temperature (i.e. 70 degrees), so we get A/C in heat. The buttons do light up with headlight switch, but again none of them do anything. I will try so tests and see what could be wrong. Finger crossed not too hard and I can find the problem.
Did you ever find the answer to your problem? I'm having the same issue
@@tremaynedixon4586 Yes, I figured it out after I had to take it to dealership. It was a couple of things. One the controller or computer under back row passenger seat was bad, and then one of the pins was bent on the connectors to the radio under dash.
Just this week I had a ML350 with CAN network pulled to ground preventing starting and numerous issues. The amplifier had water intrusion from the cracked tail light. Disconnected amp and put some RTV on the Crack for the tail light for a temp fix. Started right up after Amp was disconnected
My guess is the assembly line "robot" wasn't programed correct to supply the right amount of body sealant via volume and/or path to apply it. If not that, a simple product defect.
Water got in...humidity is what damage the control board components. Great find Ivan...
As always Nice job Ivan. I’ve simply got to knock another one out of my bucket wish list and invest in a scope, which I know it will take a good bit of time and learning for Me to even figure out how to use, but what the heck. I know the Pico is for sure tried and true, but I’m considering getting the one that goes with the Thinktool. Been researching and they seem to have pretty good reviews so far. If I do get it, perhaps I’ll drop it off at the PHAD and have it properly checked out and trained and get an actual give it a go review!
Here's a tip for using tubes of silicone and the likes - if you have a food saver or seal a meal, (food saver works best since it vacuums out the air) after opening and using your tube, put it into a bag and seal it. Not a guaranteed 100% fix, but I've had tubes last me for several months this way. Not an issue for something you use all the time, but for those once in a while use items, it may make the difference of having to buy a new tube every time you need it.
Ivan to the rescue . . . I love these videos
Great find. Enjoyed watching from England!
You are great, troubleshooting, repairs etc, fun to follow your channel
Spasibo! 🙂
Thanks for another very informative video. This customer was able to do this level of disassembly and swapping before bringing it in, so I wonder if it would have been worth it for the customer to buy short term access to repair data from Alldata DIY or something like that, in this case.
Smashing job ivan :-D
Sounds like the module needs a rain coat :-D.
Hi Ivan, You can try to take some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and clean off the corrosion and see if the module springs back to life. Many laptops with water damage are serviced with simple alcohol scrub. I have never tried, but you might also be able to use your deoxit stuff to get that corrosion off the circuit board. My guess is the board is fine but some leads are shorting out.
That actually crossed my mind... Would have been interesting to try!
I would have done the same, but guess the customer wanted new. If it worked after cleaning, being an electronics nerd I would have installed new electrolytics and buttoned it up.
Well done Ivan. Thanks!
very instructive, thank you
Outstanding video and a clear lesson on how one element of a network can bring everything down.
Great job as always 👍
I've a 1961 ford 600 winch truck. 'Im keeping it to use as a driver. It's a Good idea I think .
Finding water leaks is the worst. The water can track quite a distance from the actual source. I lost count of the number of hours I spent upside down with a torch in footwells and sedan trunks as an apprentice.
18:46 I think that's probably Miami...FYR
You've just got to love the Plug and Play friendliness of Asian cars. That module on a German car would've required programming/adaptation 🤦.
Wiring diagrams all the way!
Once you said the av module was near the rear hatch I had a feeling the green crusties would be making a showing :)
Great job brother, as always
Solid repair as always!
Awesome work Ivan!
You demonstrated a really impressive mastery of automotive communication bus circuitry in this video, Ivan! A veritable tour de force on the subject. Very well done.
Could you wrap the camera module with a lunch bag before installation to keep any new water from getting into the unit and ruining it?
Or spray the guts with WD 40 😁
The owner did the right thing by having you make the necessary repairs after you diagnosed the problem.
I once owned an Eclipse. It devolved a leak like in this video. Upon inspection I discovered that the rear window trim was held on by clips that passed right through the sheet metal. But under each clip was a gray foam gasket. How long does a foam gasket last? About five years is the answer - then it turns to dust.
Nice video and diagnosis. What is the old saying. Never look in the trunk of a gifted car or something like that. 😂
Hey Ivan; in your experience, do you think would it make any sense to coat those circuit boards with a silicone base conformal coating? I'd bet money the manufacturers didn't do too much of that, as that stuff can be pricey.
I wonder why the manufacturers haven't gone to Fiber-optic networks. Then the only copper wiring that is needed to be distributed throughout the vehicle would be 12vdc and ground (and then with a good fusing plan it should be relatively easy to troubleshot power distribution issues) and then when a device or fiber to copper adapter goes down it isn't likely to take out a complete network. I would assume that the price difference is probably at parity (copper pricing can be pretty volatile and I'm guessing fiber is probably pretty stable).
Great job