I specialised as a Triumph Stag technician and you never ever removed the camshaft sprocket bolts or fit the camshaft sprocket support nut without first stuffing rags down the gap, the nuts and bolts are bound to jump out of your fingers vanish down into the engine. Also removing the cylinder head studs can be a nightmare to remove due to corrosion.
Well you show certainly only how to do a straightforward job, without the feared stud corrosion. I experienced that problem, luckily only on one stud. But now that stud still sticks in the head for years as I had a spare head. Will have to drill it out. No I have an engine, where 3 studs are stuck. I have plan to make a little tool which I hope works better than the shown stud remover. That is soft metal and tends to wear down.
Had a stag when i was 17. Head studs stuck so bad. I had penetrating oil soaking fir 2 days. I had a gantree in workshop. Had the weight if the car on the head for 2 daya. Wouldnt budge!! Went to a Sparshats near me. Old boy mechanic showed me a thin metal.wedge. he said drive that in enough to get a hacksaw blade in and keep cut the studs. Then gwt the head repaired. Even when i dod get the heads off. I had the head in a vice and stipp spent alot of time driving the head studs back and forth before i finally got them out
All head studs were seized on mine. Luckily the engine was out and on the engine stand so I could rotate the studs to vertical. Tightened 2 nuts together on each one until the flats aligned and put penetrating oil in the cast recess surrounding the stud. Then out came the SDS hammer drill and cut the point off a chisel with 4 sides to fit into the 1/2" drive of an old socket that fitted the stud nuts. I then held the SDS on the studs until they were smoking and you knew when they freed because the penetrating oil would suddenly vanish down the side of the studs. A couple of the studs took around 7 minutes of vibration to free IIRC, but it worked without causing any damage and was quick.
@Giggitee O'Yeah Let's not kid ourselves (and I'll include the Rover/Buick V8 as well), its never going to knock Lexus off the top spot for reliability.
You saw that correctly and it is right. Timing on Stag engines is taken from cyl. no2, front cyl on LH bank. There is a very good reason for this and it is due to the related Dolomite 4 cyl engines having their timing taken from the same cyl.
I had time seeing baubles on top of engine and right head so I decided to replace gaskets, looking at this video seemed like an easy task right?, removed heads , notice gaskests where almost ok except torque probably was never rechecked bolts came right out, put NEW Regular gaskets but could not put sprockets back on the cams, removed front cover and released the tensioners made partial gasket for front of oil pan,installed new gaskets on taming chain cover and loaded fluids ,started engine, after Half hour milky oil coming out of covers, open covers and yea, it look like brown oil malt, checked radiator and it was OK coolant was clean, thought may be gaskets are too thin!, so order your PAYAN Gasketes from RIMMER BROS, Carefully Installed them, following carefully all directions, installed new gasket also on Intake manifold every thing seem to be right, started engine front bolt on timing chain cover leaking oil through, added some silicon , stop leak stopped,left engine run for 20 minutes, WATER COMING OUT OF SEVERAL TOP ROW HEAD BOLTS!!!! checked torque and is fine 55 PSI. Removed couple of leaking bolts to inspect, they are wet !I thought May be I put Graphite Grease on Thread and high temperature Copper RTV on the bolts, but will they be hard to remove next time? then I realized there are Black squirts burned antifreeze leaking of the head pipes!!! so I assumed Gaskets on Intake manifold are bad also, A real 30 Dais #) Nights Nightmare what else do I do? Any Ideas? , I'm Thinking CORVETTE LS1 engine Right? Small Compact, It Fits,, Why not?
Stainless steel head bolt that is terrible stuff to make head bolt out of brakes stretches and wont take torque of steel and will still seize solid into steel and be nightmare to drill out good video
I love how you lead into the next task, and therefore overlap slightly, its a powerful teaching technique.
That is the easy bit fitting the inlet manifold is another story
I specialised as a Triumph Stag technician and you never ever removed the camshaft sprocket bolts or fit the camshaft sprocket support nut without first stuffing rags down the gap, the nuts and bolts are bound to jump out of your fingers vanish down into the engine. Also removing the cylinder head studs can be a nightmare to remove due to corrosion.
Well you show certainly only how to do a straightforward job, without the feared stud corrosion. I experienced that problem, luckily only on one stud. But now that stud still sticks in the head for years as I had a spare head.
Will have to drill it out.
No I have an engine, where 3 studs are stuck. I have plan to make a little tool which I hope works better than the shown stud remover. That is soft metal and tends to wear down.
What happened to the part where you have to fight with the corroded cylinder head studs ?
That’s a clean Stag engine. Minimal corrosion on the head gasket.
Had a stag when i was 17. Head studs stuck so bad. I had penetrating oil soaking fir 2 days. I had a gantree in workshop. Had the weight if the car on the head for 2 daya. Wouldnt budge!!
Went to a Sparshats near me. Old boy mechanic showed me a thin metal.wedge. he said drive that in enough to get a hacksaw blade in and keep cut the studs. Then gwt the head repaired.
Even when i dod get the heads off. I had the head in a vice and stipp spent alot of time driving the head studs back and forth before i finally got them out
All head studs were seized on mine. Luckily the engine was out and on the engine stand so I could rotate the studs to vertical. Tightened 2 nuts together on each one until the flats aligned and put penetrating oil in the cast recess surrounding the stud. Then out came the SDS hammer drill and cut the point off a chisel with 4 sides to fit into the 1/2" drive of an old socket that fitted the stud nuts. I then held the SDS on the studs until they were smoking and you knew when they freed because the penetrating oil would suddenly vanish down the side of the studs. A couple of the studs took around 7 minutes of vibration to free IIRC, but it worked without causing any damage and was quick.
Wouldn't it be quicker to slightly slacken the 3 camshaft bolts (or are they set screws?) before timing up prior to removing the sprocket?
What about anti-seize on the new studs. even if they are stainless or not.
@Giggitee O'Yeah Let's not kid ourselves (and I'll include the Rover/Buick V8 as well), its never going to knock Lexus off the top spot for reliability.
I notice that set to tdc when the head is lifted off no1 piston is not at tdc? Is this right?
You saw that correctly and it is right. Timing on Stag engines is taken from cyl. no2, front cyl on LH bank. There is a very good reason for this and it is due to the related Dolomite 4 cyl engines having their timing taken from the same cyl.
I had time seeing baubles on top of engine and right head so I decided to replace gaskets, looking at this video seemed like an easy task right?, removed heads , notice gaskests where almost ok except torque probably was never rechecked bolts came right out, put NEW Regular gaskets but could not put sprockets back on the cams, removed front cover and released the tensioners made partial gasket for front of oil pan,installed new gaskets on taming chain cover and loaded fluids ,started engine, after Half hour milky oil coming out of covers, open covers and yea, it look like brown oil malt, checked radiator and it was OK coolant was clean, thought may be gaskets are too thin!, so order your PAYAN Gasketes from RIMMER BROS, Carefully Installed them, following carefully all directions, installed new gasket also on Intake manifold every thing seem to be right, started engine front bolt on timing chain cover leaking oil through, added some silicon , stop leak stopped,left engine run for 20 minutes, WATER COMING OUT OF SEVERAL TOP ROW HEAD BOLTS!!!! checked torque and is fine 55 PSI.
Removed couple of leaking bolts to inspect, they are wet !I thought May be I put Graphite Grease on Thread and high temperature Copper RTV on the bolts, but will they be hard to remove next time? then I realized there are Black squirts burned antifreeze leaking of the head pipes!!! so I assumed Gaskets on Intake manifold are bad also, A real 30 Dais #) Nights Nightmare what else do I do? Any Ideas? , I'm Thinking CORVETTE LS1 engine Right? Small Compact, It Fits,, Why not?
hi how do you make a rocker gasket fit like that? ....all the ones I have are too big
Strange. Did you buy them from another supplier?
eBay..now using rubber one
@@hankpb1 Maybe try one of ours.
Stainless steel head bolt that is terrible stuff to make head bolt out of brakes stretches and wont take torque of steel and will still seize solid into steel and be nightmare to drill out good video
There is more than one grade of stainless steel.
The WS manual recommends crossbolting the cyl head.