When I bought my X1C 8 months ago I kept my ender 2 v3 thinking i would use it as a secondary unit. It sat idle until i gave it away last week. The difference in speed, quality, and consistency of the Bambu just outweighed the idea of even turning the ender back on again. You're going to love it!
You can daisy chain up to 4 AMS units together which is why there are 2 ports on the back of the AMS. The extra Bowden tubes are for inside the AMS, they will wear out over time... they wear out much faster if you are using abrasive filament such as Carbon Fiber. The support for PLA... when you do a print that requires Supports... the printer will switch to that filament for printing the supports. It breaks off much easier for removing your supports. They give you some sample filament on spools because you can buy REFILLS from them that come without spools in them, there is a price break on those. The filaments from Bambu come with RFID tags in the spool that tell the printer the color and type so it can adjust settings like temperature specific for their filaments... it also will loosely tell you how much is left on the spool. The "cup" in the back is called the "poop shoot" and the purged filament will go out the back. You can ADJUST how much filament it purges between color changes to have it do less... but you should decide how much is right depending on what colors you are changing between so the color doesn't bleed.
Just bought this last week. While I love tinkering, the Bambu Labs P1S has been an absolute gem!! This printer has had a 100% success rate with 10+ prints over the last week with no prepping or special settings. Just works perfectly out of the box (literally)! I had the Ender 3 Pro and AnkerMake M5 before and while they are fine, they were a real pain in the butt to make work properly and consistently. Anyway, love your videos and keep ‘em coming!
The little dance it does at the beginning when it calibrates is working out the vibration resonance. It calculates if it needs to compensate for things like a wobbly table. It also uses it to tune the motors to be less noisy. Hacking wise the P1 is a little behind as the mainboard doesnt run full Linux like the X1 (which is already hackable with the X1Plus project firmware). You do still get MQTT, FTP, etc with the P1 though. The X1 and P1 also support upto 4 AMS boxes, thats why there was an extra cable and two sockets on the unit, you just daisy chain them. You need the AMS Hub however to replace the standard hub on the back of the printer, it basically has 4 ptfe slots instead of the 1. Well worth being on the BambuLab subreddit, lots of truly awesome projects going on over there :)
@@Level2Jeff They do work pretty well as dry boxes...and if you're lazy and dont want to keep changing filaments like me :D I've got 2 hooked up to a P1S and 2 on an X1 and honestly it just makes things easier, I can just remotely drop files onto the printers via FTP or trigger the print from bambustudio without needing to change out filaments.
@@Level2Jeff You can have different colors or different types of filament up to 16. Granted you'll still have a purge tower, but even the Prusa XL has one despite having 5 different print heads.
Just ordered one without the AMS right before watching, I can't wait. I struggled deciding between the P1S and the MK4S. It was hard to ignore the lower price and specs of the P1S.
If I had to guess, it did the 250° purge in case you went from a higher temp filament to a lower temp filament, in which case any extra high-temp stuff may get stuck in the nozzle and cause problems.
@@zahirkhan778 not particularly, except for the better camera and touch screen… but I do most everything from Orca Slicer, so the interface doesn’t bother me too much. I was thinking about getting an X1C at some point, but I’d rather wait for the rumored large format printer coming later this year. I also want an A1 Mini just to play around with, since they’re so cheap!
I just got my P1S combo today. I got an a1 mini and loved it so much but regretted not getting the ams lite. Drove me nuts manually loading multi color prints so I got the P1S.
@@TheFutureLooksGrimm I was debating getting the AMS with the P1S, I’m SO glad I did! I also want an A1 or A1 mini at some point, I think I will have to spring for the AMS Lite then too, it’s just such a handy feature to have available. I’ve actually been doing less multicolor prints lately, but I’m planning on doing a bunch of hueforge prints for Christmas presents so I’ll be using it a ton coming up soon lol
I've been looking at printers in the $200-300 range, I know that's not going to get me much, bit I'm looking at the ender 3 v3 line and the sovol sv6 . Granted, I'm only barely into my typical six month purchase research process. I don't mind tinkering and diy upgrades over time . It's fun to see others in that journey. ( I recently watched an interview with the two guys behind a custom or extended firmware for one printer or another , but I can't remember who what or where it was. I hadn't yet decided I was going to start doing the full research when I watched that. ) Regardless, this was fun to watch!
Nice. Looking forward to seeing more 3D printing integrated into your projects. The P1S looks like a great choice for your needs, especially since it should fall into the business expense category for tax purposes :-) For more value and budget focused hobby folks, the A1 and A1 mini printers look like winners during the current sale pricing (from Bambu directly or from Microcenter).
I have 2 K1 Max printers, as the eco system is more open. Material changing units waste a lot of filament, as they need to purge the nozzle before they can print with the different color. The waste can be several times the actual weight of the print, depending upon how many changes are required. HAVE FUN!
I dream to have one Bambu!!! But in the mean time I am working with and Ender V2, I am pushing it to print at 95mm with PLA, will continue pushing it to have faster prints.
Also, print some guard for the carton spool not to shed cardboard dust all over the place. Print: a poop chute, desiccant for the AMS, AMS protection tabs for the feeders...
Eventually those cardboard spools break down in the AMS, you should print some snap-on covers that help with the feeding if you plan to use cardboard spools all the time.
Definitely right to do Klipper for your S1... I've got klipper on mine (and swapped it to linear rails...) and I can print normal (as in, not those 'high speed' variants) of PLA fairly fast, still not as quick as a CoreXY machine though.
I recommend a riser for the top so you can ventilate with the door closed. You should not print PLA with the printer sealed up as it will keep the PLA too soft. The support material is so you can print supports in a material that won't stick to your main material. Great idea but not really worth it for a hobbyist. Use tree supports in Bambu Studio and it'll come off well enough. I've got 3K hours on my P1S with no major repairs. I've had several other printers since then and none of them have been nearly as good, including the K1 Max or the A1's, although the A1's have been good.
They are great when they work. My AMS has a spool feeder dead on arrival. I logged a ticket 2 days ago and I am still waiting for support to reply. That's bad support for a brand new unit.
Hi Jeff can you do a chart or video comparing the two printer IE. time to print , power used during print so the more expensive one mite pay for it self after so many prints.
I would say that's great if you have time to spend, and don't mind the failed parts during the time you're testing. But if you double the print speed, while eating up a full day of the 2 days you have left before you need to deliver your product, you would be better off getting a second printer of the same type, or better to meet your deadline. That's not to say that it's a bad thing to do. One option might be to head over to Chuck's Filament Friday channel and grab some of his Ender 3 optimized profiles, and see if they help. But a E3V2 is a different printer from the E3Pro, which is a different printer than the E3v3SE, or even more different the E3V3 which is a Core XZ bed slinger. So optimizations for one, may not work well on another. That said My E3V3SE was about twice as fast as I ever got my E3Pro up to. Both are down now though with feed problems. One may be a simple fix by replacing the controller board (At least I don't think I can replace the stepper for the extruder on the printer board in that printer w/o desoldering the chip from the board,) The other I may have a fix for in that I found some 0.2 mm ID stainless steel tube that when 'I' have time and incentive, I hope to use to replace the bit of PTFE between the extruder motor and the hot end in the E3V3SE. I may need a tubing flange maker to get it to sit in the same space as the OD isn't the same as the OD on the PTFE tube.
yeah, my printer came the same way.. Took a while to get the glue off the door. As an aside, you might want to print rings for your spools.. The AMS doesn't like cardboard spools...
@@Level2Jeff when you get the time, print out a python and you won't have to worry about cardboard spools in the AMS. I did the Hydra last year when I got my P1S and it's worked well enough, but it's obsolete now. The python (same creator) doesn't care about the nature of your spool. Just ordered some bolts and bearings for the build.
I do not have adequate words for the boss move that was moving OG 3D printer while it was printing ... and having it keep working just fine. Top tier RUclips Suspenseful Content. I'm very upset by this video. I had happily convinced myself I didn't need to buy a 3D printer because I absolutely did not have time to set it up and calibrate it properly and learn it and tweak it to get it optimized for actual use, and here's this thing, popping out of the box with spectacular instructions, assembled and calibrated and working in less time than it takes me to set up a new (managed) network switch. Bambu, company I've never heard of before today, how could you do this to me. For real though: Did you have to do a lot of customization to actually get it exactly how you wanted it? Your subtitles indicated there were customization options available, but I couldn't tell if you actually needed them or not. Seriously great channel, and a very relaxing video while I was trying to get to sleep last night. :)
There are customizations that you can do, but yeah, it ships pretty much ready to print once you do the stock packing removal and connect everything up. My P1S did not come with the AMS, but for another $300 now I can add that. The stock configuration for generic filament works from everything I've run with. That said if you head over to the Bambu Labs store, you can customize by replacing nozzles with various other sizes, (0.4 is stock, 0.2 in both stainless steel nozzles, They also have an 0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 mm hardened steel nozzles) PEI bed plates in both textured and smooth surfaces, as well a print plate that is textured on one side, and smooth on the other. The one that came with my printer was textured on both sides, which means that if one side becomes damaged, I can simply flip the plate over and go back to work. Or I can flip it over every so many prints, and once it's been flipped a couple of times I can run it through a washing cycle with dish washing detergent. ( I usually drop a couple of drops of something like Dawn on the surface, splash the surface with hot water, work the detergent into the texture, add more water, scrub, rinse, flip the plate over and do the same on the other side, then do a final rinse of both sides, and either air dry or dry with a lin tree cloth. This gets any oils from my fingers in printed stuff off the bed out of the texture and it's ready to go all over again.) I pretty much only do the cleaning when I find prints not sticking to the bed in spots on the bed. If you don't have that problem, it may seem like an onerous process. It works for me.
Choose the filament, pick a quality preset, turn on supports if needed and print. There are many settings to tweak but its usually not necessary. It prints incredibly well without any adjustments.
@@JuddMan03I don’t suppose it’s possible to just take an STL and throw it in and have the machine do auto supports is it? Or does one always have to set up a print job in the slicer?
I have EDS and I struggle with smaller parts. I want to get one to help me print things to aid in fixing stuff but I'm worried my fingers won't be able to work on the tiny pieces well. Do you find you need to maintenance it often?
Love the concept of 3D printing, hate the fact that only plastic is the only option for hobbyists. Much rather print in a material that is already 100% recyclable.
Ditto; I think now that 3D printing is getting to be a little more mainstream (you don't have to maintain the printer more than you print on it), it could be interesting to see where recycling goes.
I saw a while ago someone using shredders to reuse the material after going through lots of prints, it's a drawn out way of reusing the plastic but it's fine if you want to keep your environmental waste down.
@@dzltron I'm not at all convinced that the plastic you have been using is ideally easily compostable. It's more likely it's only composite using industrial processes. That's what is needed for most 'compostable' plastics.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 there is actually a growing concern recycling plastic in this fashion. This is because of the micro plastics that escaped the shedding process into the air around you.
I like watching Jeff but puting this printer together I wanted to yell Read The Fuc&in manual how annoying and stupid not to read the manual that tells you everything you need to know
I'd mark it up to the history we have of getting manuals that are anything but useful in setting up devices. As it was, Jeff did better than I did with my A1 Mini in that I had to go back to the manual and re-read it to find that I'd missed removing 2 screws that didn't stand out in the manual as holding the Z-axis in place. Found the reference, and pulled them and was off to the races.
Printing presliced and optimized benchy gcode, that printer manufacturers provide, makes little sense. It's specially optimized to show "the speeeed". Slice own benchy - that's the real test. Hint: it will be much slower.
Did so, was still very fast! Obviously you can tweak things a lot when you slice your own models, but check out the video where I printed the PIZ dispensers for Open Sauce-this thing was still wicked fast compared to the Enders of old. Though I think I can get them moving a little more smooth/fast with Klipper.
@@Level2Jeff I meant bambu presliced benchy vs own sliced benchy (even with tweaking). I wouldn't go with improving Ender but sold it and bought A1 as a second printer. Klipper will give you speed but won't get you sensors that are in A1 and single ecosystem for entire "print farm". Actually, it all depends what do you want - print things or play with printer upgrading. (I personally have Voron for "printer upgrading" goal but the rest is for printing mainly).
@@arekx Heh, so true regarding print things vs play... I have a Positron sitting in a box. I know the second I start on that build I will be consumed by it, so I am putting it off as long as possible lol
This video was painful to watch! I mean. This is a remote…. No it’s a touchscreen. I wonder if I can hack the camera and use a raspberry pi. You said the easiest thing to do was cut here! Maybe the easiest thing was to pack it back up and return it!! Just stick to Creality. Lol
He quickly learned that algorithm of 3D printers ownership: right_number_of_3d_printers = current_number_of_3d_printers + 1
When I bought my X1C 8 months ago I kept my ender 2 v3 thinking i would use it as a secondary unit. It sat idle until i gave it away last week. The difference in speed, quality, and consistency of the Bambu just outweighed the idea of even turning the ender back on again. You're going to love it!
The best value combo this year.
"I'm being replaced!"
"No you're not, little Ender."
Sorry, but yes you are. Daddy just doesn't know it yet.
You can daisy chain up to 4 AMS units together which is why there are 2 ports on the back of the AMS. The extra Bowden tubes are for inside the AMS, they will wear out over time... they wear out much faster if you are using abrasive filament such as Carbon Fiber. The support for PLA... when you do a print that requires Supports... the printer will switch to that filament for printing the supports. It breaks off much easier for removing your supports. They give you some sample filament on spools because you can buy REFILLS from them that come without spools in them, there is a price break on those. The filaments from Bambu come with RFID tags in the spool that tell the printer the color and type so it can adjust settings like temperature specific for their filaments... it also will loosely tell you how much is left on the spool. The "cup" in the back is called the "poop shoot" and the purged filament will go out the back. You can ADJUST how much filament it purges between color changes to have it do less... but you should decide how much is right depending on what colors you are changing between so the color doesn't bleed.
Just bought this last week. While I love tinkering, the Bambu Labs P1S has been an absolute gem!! This printer has had a 100% success rate with 10+ prints over the last week with no prepping or special settings. Just works perfectly out of the box (literally)!
I had the Ender 3 Pro and AnkerMake M5 before and while they are fine, they were a real pain in the butt to make work properly and consistently.
Anyway, love your videos and keep ‘em coming!
I feel like we're witnessing the birth of a new hobby. I'm here for it.
I bought a Bambu X1 Carbon and even today, the printer amazes me. Congrats on the P1S, if I get a second printer, it will probably get a P1S.
The little dance it does at the beginning when it calibrates is working out the vibration resonance. It calculates if it needs to compensate for things like a wobbly table. It also uses it to tune the motors to be less noisy.
Hacking wise the P1 is a little behind as the mainboard doesnt run full Linux like the X1 (which is already hackable with the X1Plus project firmware). You do still get MQTT, FTP, etc with the P1 though.
The X1 and P1 also support upto 4 AMS boxes, thats why there was an extra cable and two sockets on the unit, you just daisy chain them. You need the AMS Hub however to replace the standard hub on the back of the printer, it basically has 4 ptfe slots instead of the 1.
Well worth being on the BambuLab subreddit, lots of truly awesome projects going on over there :)
Ahhh... that's a lotta boxes! I can't imagine needing that many filaments but I guess you could just have that be your storage mechanism too.
@@Level2Jeff They do work pretty well as dry boxes...and if you're lazy and dont want to keep changing filaments like me :D I've got 2 hooked up to a P1S and 2 on an X1 and honestly it just makes things easier, I can just remotely drop files onto the printers via FTP or trigger the print from bambustudio without needing to change out filaments.
@@Level2Jeff You can have different colors or different types of filament up to 16. Granted you'll still have a purge tower, but even the Prusa XL has one despite having 5 different print heads.
Just ordered one without the AMS right before watching, I can't wait. I struggled deciding between the P1S and the MK4S. It was hard to ignore the lower price and specs of the P1S.
I literally just got my P1S. I bought a mini on the 13th and now I already own a PS1. It’s crazy.
If I had to guess, it did the 250° purge in case you went from a higher temp filament to a lower temp filament, in which case any extra high-temp stuff may get stuck in the nozzle and cause problems.
It seems to jump to 250 on any filament changeover, I guess that's just safer for a purge than risking a lower temp and anything getting stuck.
I’ve had a P1S combo since December, printed thousands of hours on it already! Printing is my new fave hobby!!!
Do you regret not getting a X1C ?
@@zahirkhan778 not particularly, except for the better camera and touch screen… but I do most everything from Orca Slicer, so the interface doesn’t bother me too much. I was thinking about getting an X1C at some point, but I’d rather wait for the rumored large format printer coming later this year. I also want an A1 Mini just to play around with, since they’re so cheap!
I just got my P1S combo today. I got an a1 mini and loved it so much but regretted not getting the ams lite. Drove me nuts manually loading multi color prints so I got the P1S.
@@TheFutureLooksGrimm I was debating getting the AMS with the P1S, I’m SO glad I did! I also want an A1 or A1 mini at some point, I think I will have to spring for the AMS Lite then too, it’s just such a handy feature to have available. I’ve actually been doing less multicolor prints lately, but I’m planning on doing a bunch of hueforge prints for Christmas presents so I’ll be using it a ton coming up soon lol
I've been looking at printers in the $200-300 range, I know that's not going to get me much, bit I'm looking at the ender 3 v3 line and the sovol sv6 .
Granted, I'm only barely into my typical six month purchase research process.
I don't mind tinkering and diy upgrades over time .
It's fun to see others in that journey.
( I recently watched an interview with the two guys behind a custom or extended firmware for one printer or another , but I can't remember who what or where it was.
I hadn't yet decided I was going to start doing the full research when I watched that. )
Regardless, this was fun to watch!
Nice. Looking forward to seeing more 3D printing integrated into your projects. The P1S looks like a great choice for your needs, especially since it should fall into the business expense category for tax purposes :-) For more value and budget focused hobby folks, the A1 and A1 mini printers look like winners during the current sale pricing (from Bambu directly or from Microcenter).
Are you secretly a chaos engineer?! I couldn't IMAGINE winging the setup of something new without meticulously spelling the manual.
There’s actually a QR code on the box you can scan that takes you to a video that Bambu made so you can follow the unboxing one step at a time. 😊
Welcome to new addiction, now we get to see more jeff prints videos on how to programatically create cad models 😂
I have 2 K1 Max printers, as the eco system is more open. Material changing units waste a lot of filament, as they need to purge the nozzle before they can print with the different color. The waste can be several times the actual weight of the print, depending upon how many changes are required.
HAVE FUN!
"in case it blasts out a fireball at me" 12:08
It'd be interesting to see a video about upgrading the S1 to Klipper firmware using a Pi. You could print much faster and unlock more features.
Always happy to watch!
Always happy to give your comment a heart ;)
I dream to have one Bambu!!! But in the mean time I am working with and Ender V2, I am pushing it to print at 95mm with PLA, will continue pushing it to have faster prints.
Also, print some guard for the carton spool not to shed cardboard dust all over the place. Print: a poop chute, desiccant for the AMS, AMS protection tabs for the feeders...
Eventually those cardboard spools break down in the AMS, you should print some snap-on covers that help with the feeding if you plan to use cardboard spools all the time.
Protip: Always lift from your back and make sure it is in a twisted position. 😂
And have most of the weight on one arm, and be holding phone between shoulder and ear while doing so :D
P1S.. is so awesome, hope you enjoy!
Hey now my St. Louis friend has 3d printers I can “borrow” 😂
a1 or a1 mini is great if you're on a low budget!
Definitely right to do Klipper for your S1... I've got klipper on mine (and swapped it to linear rails...) and I can print normal (as in, not those 'high speed' variants) of PLA fairly fast, still not as quick as a CoreXY machine though.
Yeah honestly doubling the speed would be good enough for most times, when I'm not up against some deadline!
I recommend a riser for the top so you can ventilate with the door closed. You should not print PLA with the printer sealed up as it will keep the PLA too soft. The support material is so you can print supports in a material that won't stick to your main material. Great idea but not really worth it for a hobbyist. Use tree supports in Bambu Studio and it'll come off well enough. I've got 3K hours on my P1S with no major repairs. I've had several other printers since then and none of them have been nearly as good, including the K1 Max or the A1's, although the A1's have been good.
Yeah the default 'crosshatch' supports are *very* difficult to remove from some parts. Probably will stick to tree for most things.
that's what the plan support is for - use it as a support interface material that easily comes off and leaves a nice finish on the surface.
They are great when they work. My AMS has a spool feeder dead on arrival. I logged a ticket 2 days ago and I am still waiting for support to reply. That's bad support for a brand new unit.
It could very well bei the volume of traffic as a result of their Anniversary sale. But yeah, not a great impression for support.
Hi Jeff can you do a chart or video comparing the two printer IE. time to print , power used during print so the more expensive one mite pay for it self after so many prints.
Jeff, you need to dig into tuning your slicer. I've doubled the speed of my prusa MK3 and yet improved the quality. Lots of knobs to twiddle. ❤
I would say that's great if you have time to spend, and don't mind the failed parts during the time you're testing. But if you double the print speed, while eating up a full day of the 2 days you have left before you need to deliver your product, you would be better off getting a second printer of the same type, or better to meet your deadline. That's not to say that it's a bad thing to do. One option might be to head over to Chuck's Filament Friday channel and grab some of his Ender 3 optimized profiles, and see if they help. But a E3V2 is a different printer from the E3Pro, which is a different printer than the E3v3SE, or even more different the E3V3 which is a Core XZ bed slinger. So optimizations for one, may not work well on another. That said My E3V3SE was about twice as fast as I ever got my E3Pro up to. Both are down now though with feed problems. One may be a simple fix by replacing the controller board (At least I don't think I can replace the stepper for the extruder on the printer board in that printer w/o desoldering the chip from the board,) The other I may have a fix for in that I found some 0.2 mm ID stainless steel tube that when 'I' have time and incentive, I hope to use to replace the bit of PTFE between the extruder motor and the hot end in the E3V3SE. I may need a tubing flange maker to get it to sit in the same space as the OD isn't the same as the OD on the PTFE tube.
yeah, my printer came the same way.. Took a while to get the glue off the door. As an aside, you might want to print rings for your spools.. The AMS doesn't like cardboard spools...
That's what I've heard... going to have to do that!
@@Level2Jeff when you get the time, print out a python and you won't have to worry about cardboard spools in the AMS. I did the Hydra last year when I got my P1S and it's worked well enough, but it's obsolete now. The python (same creator) doesn't care about the nature of your spool. Just ordered some bolts and bearings for the build.
"I guess I just stick it in there and that's it. Can you do multiple of these?"
Great video again Jeff, just saving up for the X1 carbon
I do not have adequate words for the boss move that was moving OG 3D printer while it was printing ... and having it keep working just fine. Top tier RUclips Suspenseful Content.
I'm very upset by this video. I had happily convinced myself I didn't need to buy a 3D printer because I absolutely did not have time to set it up and calibrate it properly and learn it and tweak it to get it optimized for actual use, and here's this thing, popping out of the box with spectacular instructions, assembled and calibrated and working in less time than it takes me to set up a new (managed) network switch.
Bambu, company I've never heard of before today, how could you do this to me.
For real though: Did you have to do a lot of customization to actually get it exactly how you wanted it? Your subtitles indicated there were customization options available, but I couldn't tell if you actually needed them or not.
Seriously great channel, and a very relaxing video while I was trying to get to sleep last night. :)
There are customizations that you can do, but yeah, it ships pretty much ready to print once you do the stock packing removal and connect everything up. My P1S did not come with the AMS, but for another $300 now I can add that. The stock configuration for generic filament works from everything I've run with. That said if you head over to the Bambu Labs store, you can customize by replacing nozzles with various other sizes, (0.4 is stock, 0.2 in both stainless steel nozzles, They also have an 0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 mm hardened steel nozzles) PEI bed plates in both textured and smooth surfaces, as well a print plate that is textured on one side, and smooth on the other. The one that came with my printer was textured on both sides, which means that if one side becomes damaged, I can simply flip the plate over and go back to work. Or I can flip it over every so many prints, and once it's been flipped a couple of times I can run it through a washing cycle with dish washing detergent. ( I usually drop a couple of drops of something like Dawn on the surface, splash the surface with hot water, work the detergent into the texture, add more water, scrub, rinse, flip the plate over and do the same on the other side, then do a final rinse of both sides, and either air dry or dry with a lin tree cloth. This gets any oils from my fingers in printed stuff off the bed out of the texture and it's ready to go all over again.) I pretty much only do the cleaning when I find prints not sticking to the bed in spots on the bed. If you don't have that problem, it may seem like an onerous process. It works for me.
Choose the filament, pick a quality preset, turn on supports if needed and print. There are many settings to tweak but its usually not necessary. It prints incredibly well without any adjustments.
@@JuddMan03I don’t suppose it’s possible to just take an STL and throw it in and have the machine do auto supports is it? Or does one always have to set up a print job in the slicer?
Lol just bought and installed the exact same printer a week ago.
when you balanced the printer on the box I was on pins and needles expecting a Linus crash ........
I have EDS and I struggle with smaller parts. I want to get one to help me print things to aid in fixing stuff but I'm worried my fingers won't be able to work on the tiny pieces well. Do you find you need to maintenance it often?
Good question! So far with the P1S, I haven't had to touch anything at all, just print print print.
Yeah Bambu Lab!
Interesting way to take it out of the box. I would have turned the box up side down and pulled the box off of the printer.
Was considering that but with how tightly packed it was, I didn't know if flipping it upside down would be okay.
@@Level2Jeff It should be. I do it with microwaves and it works okay. At least you were able to get it out okay.
Nah, lifting it out by the bag is the correct way per the guide.
The excess shoot shoots excessive excesses I suppose?
Basically! I call it the poop chute... the printer poops a little every time I start a print :D
@@Level2Jeff You may want to print a funnel to have it drop that into a trash can under that Husky bench..
hey which filement did you use?
I want this one, but it's like $1300 in Norway. :(
At the moment they have anniversary sale. Get big discounts as i am saving up for the x1 carbon
Drat, wish international rates were similar!
As the old saying goes: "It doesn't matter the Ender 3 is slower than the Bambu P1S. Two 3D printers are better than one."
But an A1 mini is the same price (apart from microcenter) and prints 3x faster
Me when he balanced the 3D printer on the box: 💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀
Well it say on the Bambu this: "Up to 20000 mm/s² acceleration, prints a benchy in 18 min", so you got me 8 minutes?
I see we aren't yet aware of parallel -processing- printing.
Love the concept of 3D printing, hate the fact that only plastic is the only option for hobbyists. Much rather print in a material that is already 100% recyclable.
Ditto; I think now that 3D printing is getting to be a little more mainstream (you don't have to maintain the printer more than you print on it), it could be interesting to see where recycling goes.
I saw a while ago someone using shredders to reuse the material after going through lots of prints, it's a drawn out way of reusing the plastic but it's fine if you want to keep your environmental waste down.
There are now plastics that are fully compostable. That helped me finally want to get one.
@@dzltron I'm not at all convinced that the plastic you have been using is ideally easily compostable. It's more likely it's only composite using industrial processes. That's what is needed for most 'compostable' plastics.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 there is actually a growing concern recycling plastic in this fashion. This is because of the micro plastics that escaped the shedding process into the air around you.
I don't get the need for it to have Wifi connection, does it have an ethernet connection?
Unfortunately no... I'm looking into how I can get it integrated more easily into my other 3D printer ecosystem, for which I prefer OctoPrint.
@@Level2Jeff I'd rather prefer everything wired than WiFi. Its strange that they would only have that and Bluetooth
I hope you print a little "toilet" for the poops.
I like watching Jeff but puting this printer together I wanted to yell Read The Fuc&in manual how annoying and stupid not to read the manual that tells you everything you need to know
I'd mark it up to the history we have of getting manuals that are anything but useful in setting up devices. As it was, Jeff did better than I did with my A1 Mini in that I had to go back to the manual and re-read it to find that I'd missed removing 2 screws that didn't stand out in the manual as holding the Z-axis in place. Found the reference, and pulled them and was off to the races.
what filement
i dont think he needs "octoprint or something" on any bambu printer
it basically already has it, name: bambu handy/studio
Printing presliced and optimized benchy gcode, that printer manufacturers provide, makes little sense. It's specially optimized to show "the speeeed". Slice own benchy - that's the real test. Hint: it will be much slower.
Did so, was still very fast! Obviously you can tweak things a lot when you slice your own models, but check out the video where I printed the PIZ dispensers for Open Sauce-this thing was still wicked fast compared to the Enders of old. Though I think I can get them moving a little more smooth/fast with Klipper.
@@Level2Jeff I meant bambu presliced benchy vs own sliced benchy (even with tweaking). I wouldn't go with improving Ender but sold it and bought A1 as a second printer. Klipper will give you speed but won't get you sensors that are in A1 and single ecosystem for entire "print farm". Actually, it all depends what do you want - print things or play with printer upgrading. (I personally have Voron for "printer upgrading" goal but the rest is for printing mainly).
@@arekx Heh, so true regarding print things vs play... I have a Positron sitting in a box. I know the second I start on that build I will be consumed by it, so I am putting it off as long as possible lol
This video was painful to watch!
I mean. This is a remote…. No it’s a touchscreen. I wonder if I can hack the camera and use a raspberry pi.
You said the easiest thing to do was cut here! Maybe the easiest thing was to pack it back up and return it!!
Just stick to Creality. Lol
Title a little Clickbaity 🤏🏾🤣
lol "build"