The reason for installing the slip Yokes towards the transfer case is toe kept them elevated as high as possible to reduce the risk of running them through mud and water that might cause unnecessary damage and wear
That does make a lot of sense, I have a rubber sleeve I intend to install on the front prop sleeve to hopefully offset it's vunerability and if that plan fails I'll switch it round. Thanks for the tip.
Mr Foreman, good to see you back on screen and with a bonus appearance of Wilms, who does not usually make her presence in the shed. The Landy is taking shape and you made the right choice of putting in the correct engine. Much better than the Rover V8. Thanks for the video.
Just the other day I was rewatching some of the gearbox videos and I was thinking to myself that the V8 would break the gearbox again, but good to see that you went back to a more resonable gearbox/engine combination.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I think though if it was mine, I would have changed the gearbox to something stronger and kept the engine, I do love a nice Rover V8!
Well Mr Foreman,a great video,and super good progress. I do like what you’ve chosen to do engine wise, I think you will be happy with this arrangement. It’s getting exciting as you get ever closer to the finish line,although I realize there’s a ways to go.Best wishes 🙂
Great progress! ACR have a great rep so you shouldn't have any issues with that engine. The 140 in the gearbox will be fine, though in my opinion the bronze bushes on the mainshaft in those boxes suffer poor lubrication, so I'd recommend swapping to 90 weight if you're intending to do any miles at "high speed".
Greetings Mr SteamWally! Good to hear from you. I concur with your synopsis on the gear oil 100% It was when I was pouring it in and the stuff was like honey that prompted me to re-read the label that said clearly 140w. Off camera I had to shake my head and call myself a dumb-ass.
Oh, my! Lovely engine. Been waiting very patiently (and slightly anxiously) for a medical infusion of Foreman and Wilms. Good to see Cricket again, too.
Mister Foreman it behooves me to commend you. For finally including the muchly missed duo of missus Foreman and 'the dog' (Summer and krikkit. Sorry I just love messing around with the home country's lingo). Oh and the almost-as-equally-exciting vehicular progression. Oh ok, yes I join excitedly with you at this latest momentous milepost of this most in-depth incredibly satisfying sojourn. Well Dunn (deep cousin of famous Australian artist; Peter Dunn). 🥰 Always love your videos guys. So good. 🤠 🚙
Fabulous progress. I chose ACR for my engine too and it's been perfect. Home straight now, everything you do will make it look more like a car - not less! Enjoy.
superb work my friend, looking very believable!! Be aware of 'light at the end of the tunnel' as it's often a train coming I have found. Hope all is well.
I agree with everything said there. Deep breathing and calming Kylie Minogue music are being used to temper my enthusiasm and stay composed as the finish line approaches.
Looking very nice. Here in South Africa our climate is similar to Australia and in my 2a I use an 85 140 gear oil. It's good for the higher temps in the gear box transfer box and diffs. In my 90 I found it reduced knocking from the diffs when hot. Good luck Bruce!!!!!
80/90 gear oil for diffs, gear box & transfer case. Was told this by an Indy Land Rover specialist. Your videos keep me motivated for my own Series project. Keep it up!
I'm having trouble finding oils of that weight in the GL4 variety, plenty in GL5 but for the former I'm only finding the 140W. I'll have to look a little harder, my fear is the 'viscousy' stuff might not get in between the bushings and nooks and crannies as easily as it should. Glad you're motivated! Cheers.
A video from Mr Foreman bodes well for a great start to the year. After finishing my Series IIa last year, your exploits have now prompted me to start all over again with a Series III 109 Ex-Mil 😁
Greetings there Mr McGuinnes! It's a tough job spreading the love between multiple Land Rovers though it must be done. Good fortunes in your series 111 endeavors.
I love your series, I’ve been waiting for you to rebuild an engine so I could work along as I did with the gearbox 😢you display the best rebuild details, looks like I go it alone with my motor rebuild
This is a very late reply and my apologies for no engine rebuild. I felt a little short of options engine-wise and the route chosen sped things up on an already long arduous project. Glad the other stuff has helped though, even if it's not a pro doing the job it can be handy getting a look how things work and what problems can be expected.
Looking good mr foreman! You must be getting excited now, you’re on the home straight! I bought my series 1 about the time you started making these videos and I haven’t done a thing on it yet, you’re inspiring me to get started!
So good to have you back, Mr Foreman. So refreshing to hear someone say “I don’t know” for a change. I already admired your work immensely; now I do so even more. Brilliant videos, thank you for making and sharing them. Will, Scotland.
I've many variations of expressions to the phrase 'I don't know'. It seems the older and wiser I get the more I realized how little I do know. The world was so much easier back when I was blissfully ignorant.
Top bloke Mr. Foreman and thanks be to the Landy gods you have returned, 2024 is looking up already, g’day from the UK…PS if you need any parts shipping just let me know, I promise I’ll answer the phone 📱.
Another most enjoyable episode Mr Foreman. Full marks for the effort you put into your camera angles, commentary and videography. I must say that I was watching that motor wobble along on the forks of the tractor with my heart in my mouth!!!!! Maybe it looked alright from the tractor seat, but from my seat… ahhhhhh!!!! :-)
There was nothing wrong with your angle of view of the engine wobbling precariously on the forks. That's why it remained barley above ground level and moved at a snails pace. My heart would not have survived the shock if I dropped it on the ground and broke it.
When I replaced gearbox oil in my Nissan patrol I used 140w and found that it was difficult to get it into 1st gear before it warmed up so be aware of this if it happens to you..... great content.
Nice Gav. Home straight. Engine packaging crate looked almost too nice, but it is even better in the car. I see you have a Weber card already installed. Presumably that was Roland’s suggestion. I will be interested to see how that pans out and how you set up the throttle linkage. As you know that was one of my challenges. I have used thinner oil in my transfer box (but I also have an annoying small oil leak). No rubber gaiters on the prop shafts? Andy.
Great seeing a new video up! I have chosen a 2.25 for my 53 series I “Nanook” up here in Alaska as well, scored a 59 parts rig with a save able 58 production engine(first year for the 2.25) so hopefully OK with the rivet counters!!
That's a firm No on you being ok with the rivet counters but you get the thumbs up from me. I'm currently quite vexed with air cleaner setup for these engines with little clearance beneath the hood. Not sure what carb your machine has but the weber sits very high with only 3 inches between it and the underside of the hood. Might be building my own attachment to solve this puzzle. Must be quite chilly at the moment up your way.
So glad to see you have a real motor for the chariot, spline end goes to the transfer case keeps it out of the dirt a bit better preventing excessive wear. 90 weight GL 4 gear oil is recommended due to bushes in the box. Another great video can’t wait to hear it running, just a hint before starting remove spark plugs and turn motor over on the starter till you get oil pressure on gauge or oil at the rockers it will stop the bearings rattling at initial start. All the best for the new year.
Thanks Gippy! If I remember my V8 for the Disco came with a similar recommendation upon starting. I'm thinking of removing the coil lead and crank it a few times to prime both oil pump and fuel lines at the same time.
After quickly looking it up it looks like GL5 is a problem with some parts of older boxes. anyway I really like the pro editing and comedy along with the trip you are going on.
I've encountered the same theories from multiple sources I deem reliable. The subject is not without controversy as some folk regard it as a myth. From my perspective, not knowing which is true I choose to err on the side of caution and use the GL4.
I seem to recall a recommendation to put Copper Slip on the threads of any exhaust bolts to make it easier - in the future - to remove them. But the Landy is really coming along smartly. Well done. Pity about the other engine guy...
I know the person you speak of, hope you get that motor or money. Personally I think you made the best choice. The gas 2 1/4 is a sweet little motor. I had a 1957 107 with a 2 1/4 . Sixty mph was no problem.
It's a dangerously small world we live in. While I'm hoping for the best I've prepared myself psychologically, emotionally and spiritually for the worst. I agree that things have worked out well with the engine I got and while it was quite expensive I suspect it'll be worth every dime. As for 60 mile and hour in an old Landy, you're a braver man than I.
Love to see a N/A Ford BARRA Money Pit or swap JEEP parts cheap build ..Landrovers are for people that love working on cars.. Late 80s early 90s they rode a lot better than cruiser or patrol .1996 had cab chassis tray back little turbo perkins comfort great unloaded.Never driven one with 3.9 Isuzu but it would be more choice.
Wow Man! You are moving and shaking now!! The 2.25 petrol is an excellent choice!! The V8 sounds like it would’ve been a pain in the long run. I get confused on the driveshafts too. I put mine on the same as you. Excellent work!!
I think the V8 is too powerful for this wagon unless major mods are done to compensate. Fuel consumption was another concern as the fuel tank is small. I'm glad I went with the 2.25 in the end.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures oh my Sir!! I fail in comparison of your stylist debonair looks and restoration skills. I’m a goof with a camera. Ha ha!! Thank you for the great videos!!
That is very good engine with a terrible carb :o) So many places for dirt to get stuck :o Petrol engine versions of diesels are usually ace ^-^ Prop shaft slides go as high as possible so grass-wrap happens on the bare bit.
Major applause for part 31, Gav! 👏👏 The progress made in this video is worthy of celebration! Well done! 👍 PS: What's going on with regard to the long anticipated, fully paid for, rebuilt GM engine from Virginia?
Thanks Noah. The first engine order is yet to be resolved. I've had 3 years to emotionally prepare myself for the worst if it comes to that, so metaphorically speaking I'm already back on my feet and limping in a forward direction.
My concern echoed by other commenters is the thicker oils ability to lubricated the narrow confines such as the bronze bush on the main shaft. But if you've run with this stuff for years without problem then that's a good sign.
Good to see you again bet the boss is wondering if the landrover nightmare is ever going to end 😂😂😂😂 keep up the work sounds like the major hurdle is behind you now
Is the engine a Land Rover replica? "A great deal have you achieved," says Yoder. Thanks for a mighty update. I was expecting more "self defecating humour," but I'm also relieved that you let yourself off the hook on camera. I shudder to speculate what self-flagellation is edited out. You are a phenomenally patient and persistent chap. Truly a great role model for many. I am not patient. The higher viscosity oil for the transfer case will reduce wear. Good luck. PS do you or Wilms play the saxophone??? Some lovely backing music!
Neither I or Wilms are musically gifted, instead I've a subscription to a royalty free music library called Smartsounds. Initially the music choice was light hearted comical stuff but when I stumbled across the jazz and blues it seemed to really compliment the workshop videos being corny and tongue in cheek with some class. I'll miss it once the series wraps up.
Fantastic progress, good luck with the electrickery, don't let the smoke out the wires! Castrol 10W40 is what I always used in my Series, and was told by a mechanic that it sounded sweet like a sewing machine. Gearbox, transfer, differentials always used EP90 gear oil. You did remember to fill the differentials too? (Maybe back when you rebuilt the axles?)
Diffs are full! I'll start out with the 140 gear oil but will swap it out for the 90w soon after. My main concern is it's ability to get into tight spots like the bronze bushings on the main shaft. The manual does recommend the lighter stuff so that would be the more reliable choice.
Not the first time we’ve heard that story from the Va engine person. Sad. The ACR will be fantastic. 90wt gear oil GL4 will be best for the gearbox and transfer case.
Sounds like somebody has gained some infamy. I don't yet know how things will pan out but after 3 years I'm not getting my hopes up. I am happy with the engine I ended up with and if the first one does turn up then maybe I'll find another old Land Rover to fix.
Great to see you after a bit of a long break. Hope you had a great holiday season. :) A bit of a sad story about the engine though.Let's hope it all works out in the end. Was Cricket (Krikit?) commenting on your business savvy at 04:12 ? LOL
22:02 That would be 10W for cold weather aka winter. 40 is for when the engine is warmed up. Back in he mists of time multigrade oil hadn't been invented, I speculate you would have chosen something between, SAE 20 perhap. Oil has to be thin enough fr starting cold engines, not so thin when hot as to lose lubrication.
US gov requires metric in contract. No other country in the world, except perhaps Liberia and Myanmar, uses the US system of weights and measures, and I think the last two are actually trying to go from Imperial to metric. I was expecting SAE 90 for gears. 140 might increase fuel consumption. It's been good to see you in action again. PS what do you do if the first replacement engine turns up?
Greetings Phil. The mob that built the engine for me warned that the 2ltr petrol were not only scarce but parts can be very hard to find. Over time that will only be more valid. As for originality that was corrupted long ago with the V8 engine conversion and the modifications required to fit it. At least the rear diff I suspect has been poached from a series 2A. It's true that an original vehicle would be much more valuable but I don't sell my toys so that won't factor into the equation. I also intend to use it so functionality and ready access to parts over rides nostalgia.
The reason for installing the slip Yokes towards the transfer case is toe kept them elevated as high as possible to reduce the risk of running them through mud and water that might cause unnecessary damage and wear
That does make a lot of sense, I have a rubber sleeve I intend to install on the front prop sleeve to hopefully offset it's vunerability and if that plan fails I'll switch it round. Thanks for the tip.
Very enjoyable. Takes me back some 25 years when I restored my old Landy. Cheers!
Mr Foreman, good to see you back on screen and with a bonus appearance of Wilms, who does not usually make her presence in the shed. The Landy is taking shape and you made the right choice of putting in the correct engine. Much better than the Rover V8. Thanks for the video.
Glad you went with the smaller engine. The original engine was a sweet little engine but the 2.25 will be better than the V8. Great work as always!!
Just the other day I was rewatching some of the gearbox videos and I was thinking to myself that the V8 would break the gearbox again, but good to see that you went back to a more resonable gearbox/engine combination.
I agree, I couldn't in my heart put the V8 back in. Maybe I'll rebuild it one day and fine a home for it in a range rover classic, if I find one.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I think though if it was mine, I would have changed the gearbox to something stronger and kept the engine, I do love a nice Rover V8!
Well Mr Foreman,a great video,and super good progress.
I do like what you’ve chosen to do engine wise, I think you will be happy with this arrangement.
It’s getting exciting as you get ever closer to the finish line,although I realize there’s a ways to go.Best wishes 🙂
Great progress! ACR have a great rep so you shouldn't have any issues with that engine. The 140 in the gearbox will be fine, though in my opinion the bronze bushes on the mainshaft in those boxes suffer poor lubrication, so I'd recommend swapping to 90 weight if you're intending to do any miles at "high speed".
Greetings Mr SteamWally! Good to hear from you. I concur with your synopsis on the gear oil 100% It was when I was pouring it in and the stuff was like honey that prompted me to re-read the label that said clearly 140w. Off camera I had to shake my head and call myself a dumb-ass.
Oh, my! Lovely engine. Been waiting very patiently (and slightly anxiously) for a medical infusion of Foreman and Wilms. Good to see Cricket again, too.
The manual suggests 85W/90 API GL-4. GL-4 is very important. GL-5 has additives that might damage brass components in the gearbox. :)
Mister Foreman it behooves me to commend you.
For finally including the muchly missed duo of missus Foreman and 'the dog' (Summer and krikkit. Sorry I just love messing around with the home country's lingo).
Oh and the almost-as-equally-exciting vehicular progression.
Oh ok, yes I join excitedly with you at this latest momentous milepost of this most in-depth incredibly satisfying sojourn.
Well Dunn (deep cousin of famous Australian artist; Peter Dunn).
🥰 Always love your videos guys. So good. 🤠 🚙
Always a treat when a Foreman and Wilms video drops!
Fabulous progress.
I chose ACR for my engine too and it's been perfect.
Home straight now, everything you do will make it look more like a car - not less!
Enjoy.
superb work my friend, looking very believable!! Be aware of 'light at the end of the tunnel' as it's often a train coming I have found. Hope all is well.
I agree with everything said there. Deep breathing and calming Kylie Minogue music are being used to temper my enthusiasm and stay composed as the finish line approaches.
Looking very nice. Here in South Africa our climate is similar to Australia and in my 2a I use an 85 140 gear oil. It's good for the higher temps in the gear box transfer box and diffs. In my 90 I found it reduced knocking from the diffs when hot. Good luck Bruce!!!!!
It was a long wait, but It was worth it. Can't wait for the next one. Keep it up!!
80/90 gear oil for diffs, gear box & transfer case. Was told this by an Indy Land Rover specialist. Your videos keep me motivated for my own Series project. Keep it up!
I'm having trouble finding oils of that weight in the GL4 variety, plenty in GL5 but for the former I'm only finding the 140W. I'll have to look a little harder, my fear is the 'viscousy' stuff might not get in between the bushings and nooks and crannies as easily as it should. Glad you're motivated! Cheers.
A video from Mr Foreman bodes well for a great start to the year. After finishing my Series IIa last year, your exploits have now prompted me to start all over again with a Series III 109 Ex-Mil 😁
Greetings there Mr McGuinnes! It's a tough job spreading the love between multiple Land Rovers though it must be done. Good fortunes in your series 111 endeavors.
I love your series, I’ve been waiting for you to rebuild an engine so I could work along as I did with the gearbox 😢you display the best rebuild details, looks like I go it alone with my motor rebuild
This is a very late reply and my apologies for no engine rebuild. I felt a little short of options engine-wise and the route chosen sped things up on an already long arduous project. Glad the other stuff has helped though, even if it's not a pro doing the job it can be handy getting a look how things work and what problems can be expected.
Looking good mr foreman! You must be getting excited now, you’re on the home straight!
I bought my series 1 about the time you started making these videos and I haven’t done a thing on it yet, you’re inspiring me to get started!
So good to have you back, Mr Foreman. So refreshing to hear someone say “I don’t know” for a change. I already admired your work immensely; now I do so even more. Brilliant videos, thank you for making and sharing them. Will, Scotland.
I've many variations of expressions to the phrase 'I don't know'. It seems the older and wiser I get the more I realized how little I do know. The world was so much easier back when I was blissfully ignorant.
Best to replace “I don’t know” with “I’m not sure”.
I admire your skills mate. @@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures
Top bloke Mr. Foreman and thanks be to the Landy gods you have returned, 2024 is looking up already, g’day from the UK…PS if you need any parts shipping just let me know, I promise I’ll answer the phone 📱.
Great progress! You make it look so easy...
Looking bloody good man ! Light at end of tunnel becoming brighter by the week - go slow and do it right .. .. .. .. .. .. first time. Best.
Another most enjoyable episode Mr Foreman. Full marks for the effort you put into your camera angles, commentary and videography. I must say that I was watching that motor wobble along on the forks of the tractor with my heart in my mouth!!!!! Maybe it looked alright from the tractor seat, but from my seat… ahhhhhh!!!! :-)
There was nothing wrong with your angle of view of the engine wobbling precariously on the forks. That's why it remained barley above ground level and moved at a snails pace. My heart would not have survived the shock if I dropped it on the ground and broke it.
When I replaced gearbox oil in my Nissan patrol I used 140w and found that it was difficult to get it into 1st gear before it warmed up so be aware of this if it happens to you..... great content.
Fantastic! Love a new landrover episode!
Nice Gav. Home straight. Engine packaging crate looked almost too nice, but it is even better in the car. I see you have a Weber card already installed. Presumably that was Roland’s suggestion. I will be interested to see how that pans out and how you set up the throttle linkage. As you know that was one of my challenges. I have used thinner oil in my transfer box (but I also have an annoying small oil leak). No rubber gaiters on the prop shafts? Andy.
Great episode again. Loving it!!
Great seeing a new video up! I have chosen a 2.25 for my 53 series I “Nanook” up here in Alaska as well, scored a 59 parts rig with a save able 58 production engine(first year for the 2.25) so hopefully OK with the rivet counters!!
That's a firm No on you being ok with the rivet counters but you get the thumbs up from me. I'm currently quite vexed with air cleaner setup for these engines with little clearance beneath the hood. Not sure what carb your machine has but the weber sits very high with only 3 inches between it and the underside of the hood. Might be building my own attachment to solve this puzzle. Must be quite chilly at the moment up your way.
Splined slider is relatively heavy so all things equal they shouldn't add to the unsprung weight of the suspension (sliders at transfer case)
Love your videos. Best of luck.
So glad to see you have a real motor for the chariot, spline end goes to the transfer case keeps it out of the dirt a bit better preventing excessive wear. 90 weight GL 4 gear oil is recommended due to bushes in the box. Another great video can’t wait to hear it running, just a hint before starting remove spark plugs and turn motor over on the starter till you get oil pressure on gauge or oil at the rockers it will stop the bearings rattling at initial start.
All the best for the new year.
Thanks Gippy! If I remember my V8 for the Disco came with a similar recommendation upon starting. I'm thinking of removing the coil lead and crank it a few times to prime both oil pump and fuel lines at the same time.
It is so nice to see a new video from you.
Nice to see you back Mr Foreman!
You are at stage with the same power plant as me with the 58 S1 I am restoring. Looking forward to the next episode 👍
I reckon we've both made a good choice on the engine. Best of luck on your rebuild.
After quickly looking it up it looks like GL5 is a problem with some parts of older boxes. anyway I really like the pro editing and comedy along with the trip you are going on.
I've encountered the same theories from multiple sources I deem reliable. The subject is not without controversy as some folk regard it as a myth. From my perspective, not knowing which is true I choose to err on the side of caution and use the GL4.
It IS the Harbour Bridge! Haha! Great to see you back!
Yes !! So happy for you!!
Rapid progress Mr Foreman. Well done!
I seem to recall a recommendation to put Copper Slip on the threads of any exhaust bolts to make it easier - in the future - to remove them. But the Landy is really coming along smartly. Well done. Pity about the other engine guy...
Bloody great to have you back!🎉
I know the person you speak of, hope you get that motor or money. Personally I think you made the best choice. The gas 2 1/4 is a sweet little motor. I had a 1957 107 with a 2 1/4 . Sixty mph was no problem.
It's a dangerously small world we live in. While I'm hoping for the best I've prepared myself psychologically, emotionally and spiritually for the worst. I agree that things have worked out well with the engine I got and while it was quite expensive I suspect it'll be worth every dime. As for 60 mile and hour in an old Landy, you're a braver man than I.
That's a strong engine you purchased. A overdrive and 16 in wheels and 60 will be easy.
Love to see a N/A Ford BARRA Money Pit or swap JEEP parts cheap build ..Landrovers are for people that love working on cars.. Late 80s early 90s they rode a lot better than cruiser or patrol .1996 had cab chassis tray back little turbo perkins comfort great unloaded.Never driven one with 3.9 Isuzu but it would be more choice.
Hi, I have read that some transmission oils can eat away at the bronze bushing, I thing GL4 is one, research GL3. Glad you are back. Les.
Wow Man! You are moving and shaking now!! The 2.25 petrol is an excellent choice!! The V8 sounds like it would’ve been a pain in the long run. I get confused on the driveshafts too. I put mine on the same as you. Excellent work!!
I think the V8 is too powerful for this wagon unless major mods are done to compensate. Fuel consumption was another concern as the fuel tank is small. I'm glad I went with the 2.25 in the end.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures very true on all points. 2.25 is plenty of power for the little fella. You’ll be ya humming down road soon.
@@conrad1468 hang on! Am I speaking with the esteemed Mr Anderson? The other handsome Land Rover restorer. I didn’t recognise the Conrad name.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures oh my Sir!! I fail in comparison of your stylist debonair looks and restoration skills. I’m a goof with a camera. Ha ha!! Thank you for the great videos!!
That is very good engine with a terrible carb :o) So many places for dirt to get stuck :o Petrol engine versions of diesels are usually ace ^-^ Prop shaft slides go as high as possible so grass-wrap happens on the bare bit.
You have come a long way from Groveling in the sands of Malawi under the good old Bedford. Happy new year.
Good to hear from you Mr Wright! Happy new year to you also.
What's a mechanical build without a bit of bark off and blood. Loving the series.
Nice work mate, awesome show 👍
Blimey mate I thought you were lost in the outback or whatever the yanks call it.....great progress.
Major applause for part 31, Gav! 👏👏 The progress made in this video is worthy of celebration! Well done! 👍 PS: What's going on with regard to the long anticipated, fully paid for, rebuilt GM engine from Virginia?
Thanks Noah. The first engine order is yet to be resolved. I've had 3 years to emotionally prepare myself for the worst if it comes to that, so metaphorically speaking I'm already back on my feet and limping in a forward direction.
I've run SAE140 in my SIII for years. It makes it drip and rattle less. :-)
My concern echoed by other commenters is the thicker oils ability to lubricated the narrow confines such as the bronze bush on the main shaft. But if you've run with this stuff for years without problem then that's a good sign.
keep going
Good to see you again bet the boss is wondering if the landrover nightmare is ever going to end 😂😂😂😂 keep up the work sounds like the major hurdle is behind you now
We still have the wiring to do and I'm quite good at setting fire to things. Still a few jumps before the finish line.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Is the engine a Land Rover replica? "A great deal have you achieved," says Yoder. Thanks for a mighty update. I was expecting more "self defecating humour," but I'm also relieved that you let yourself off the hook on camera. I shudder to speculate what self-flagellation is edited out. You are a phenomenally patient and persistent chap. Truly a great role model for many. I am not patient. The higher viscosity oil for the transfer case will reduce wear. Good luck. PS do you or Wilms play the saxophone??? Some lovely backing music!
Neither I or Wilms are musically gifted, instead I've a subscription to a royalty free music library called Smartsounds. Initially the music choice was light hearted comical stuff but when I stumbled across the jazz and blues it seemed to really compliment the workshop videos being corny and tongue in cheek with some class. I'll miss it once the series wraps up.
Fantastic progress, good luck with the electrickery, don't let the smoke out the wires! Castrol 10W40 is what I always used in my Series, and was told by a mechanic that it sounded sweet like a sewing machine. Gearbox, transfer, differentials always used EP90 gear oil. You did remember to fill the differentials too? (Maybe back when you rebuilt the axles?)
Diffs are full! I'll start out with the 140 gear oil but will swap it out for the 90w soon after. My main concern is it's ability to get into tight spots like the bronze bushings on the main shaft. The manual does recommend the lighter stuff so that would be the more reliable choice.
Not the first time we’ve heard that story from the Va engine person. Sad. The ACR will be fantastic. 90wt gear oil GL4 will be best for the gearbox and transfer case.
Sounds like somebody has gained some infamy. I don't yet know how things will pan out but after 3 years I'm not getting my hopes up. I am happy with the engine I ended up with and if the first one does turn up then maybe I'll find another old Land Rover to fix.
Great to see you after a bit of a long break. Hope you had a great holiday season. :) A bit of a sad story about the engine though.Let's hope it all works out in the end. Was Cricket (Krikit?) commenting on your business savvy at 04:12 ? LOL
22:02 That would be 10W for cold weather aka winter. 40 is for when the engine is warmed up. Back in he mists of time multigrade oil hadn't been invented, I speculate you would have chosen something between, SAE 20 perhap. Oil has to be thin enough fr starting cold engines, not so thin when hot as to lose lubrication.
US gov requires metric in contract. No other country in the world, except perhaps Liberia and Myanmar, uses the US system of weights and measures, and I think the last two are actually trying to go from Imperial to metric.
I was expecting SAE 90 for gears. 140 might increase fuel consumption.
It's been good to see you in action again.
PS what do you do if the first replacement engine turns up?
Nice Engine .But the wrong engine. For what that cost you could have sourced a 2litre original spec engine and rebuilt it as required.
Not original??
Greetings Phil. The mob that built the engine for me warned that the 2ltr petrol were not only scarce but parts can be very hard to find. Over time that will only be more valid. As for originality that was corrupted long ago with the V8 engine conversion and the modifications required to fit it. At least the rear diff I suspect has been poached from a series 2A. It's true that an original vehicle would be much more valuable but I don't sell my toys so that won't factor into the equation. I also intend to use it so functionality and ready access to parts over rides nostalgia.