Long boards, straight and square with a Jointing Sled

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[@mattevans-koch9353]

Love the sound of that plane going down the edge of the plank. Have a good evening, Mark.

[@SmallBoatSchool]

I'll have to build myself one of those!

[@SavingMaverick55]

Since I have big a rotten boat, a thickness planer, a table saw and no jointer, this will come in handy!

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Buy a bandsaw before you even think of a jointer. And then consider a drill press or edge sander second.

[@leswheeler2023]

for long boards, I have put both sides through my thicknesser, then set up an aluminum straight edge on the plank with an offset to run my trim router against. As a quick set up, One can use a couple of stops, just a few mm wider than the sides of the cutter and base plate clamped onto the board at the ends just to set the straight edge against. Nice and simple to use.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

I use that same method as well when I need a little more accuracy or if the plank exceeds the sled length.

[@robert625]

Thx great tooltip

[@KyleWilloughby-r1k]

I made a jointing sled like yours, as soon as it was done I wished I had designed it to have a few t-slots/t-tracks down the length of it. There are clamps and a host of accessories available for t-slot.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

I have others with T-slots but I don't use them nearly as often as I anticipated.

[@dougconyers9659]

The new apron is worn at last!

[@scotthepworth5976]

Hey Amigo, how about a book titled "Wooden boat building tips for incompetent builders?" I'd buy several copies for friends. Another great instructional video!

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Isn’t that the subtitle of all of them?

[@lunkydog]

Wonky Wayne was Batman's goofy cousin.

[@fundybanjos]

nice one!

[@mikejustice1196]

Hi Mark, what are those long chisels over your left shoulder @ :15 seconds into your introductory used for?
I pursued 2 just like yours and was told they are used for ice sculpting.
There’s no mars on the handles from mallets hitting them.
Thanks

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Those are called “slicks”. They are used in boat building and timber framing. The boatbuilding version has a cranked up handle and slight convex curve along the length of the blade that allows for more control on large surfaces. The timber framing version has a straight blade and is mostly used for tuning up joints like the surface of large tenons. They can sometimes be quite costly for particularly old and well made ones. My larger one has a value of about $1000 these days. I got it at a reasonable price but I still probably paid $300 for it at the time.

[@mikejustice1196]

@@Nomadboatbuilding thanks mark

[@D-B-Cooper]

I was waiting for you to add the plank clamped to your straight board and using a router to get the first straight side.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

I sometimes do that but this technique is more about speed.

[@Starboatbuilder]

Hi
I like your shop aids Vlogs.
Should the out flow table be the length of the board that is being trimmed?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

It only needs to be as long as is required to keep the weight of the sled and stock from tipping out of the slot. I have me joinery bench set up to do that job. The spline in the sled rides in the tool tray and there is a notch cut in the bench for it to enter that space.

[@soylentgreen326]

Dude where’s Bugatti Blue😢

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

One can’t live Disco day-in-day-out.

[@soylentgreen326]

@@Nomadboatbuilding 🤔 one could waltz the week away 💃🕺

[@soylentgreen326]

@@Nomadboatbuilding🤔 still out discoing 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉