WR YZ FORK SHIMS SUSPENSION VALVING REVALVE
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Comparing the front forks from a Yamaha a YZ and WR. Complete disassembly of the shim stack and thorough comparison. DIY fork revalve. Motorcycle front suspension valving and dissassembly.
Love the fact that you aren't afraid to see what is actually happening and experimenting!
Slowly figuring this suspension mystery out. Just revalved a 2014 WR450f and it turned out great, super plush.
Good stuff laying out both base valves side by side for comparison. The YZ has noticeably thicker shims than the WR, which causes much stiffer base damping than the WR. For reference, there's actually a quick equation to figure out the difference in shim strength when comparing two shim thicknesses. (A/B)^3, where A and B are the thicknesses of two shims to compare. Those 24x0.17 face shims are actually 2.85x stiffer than the 24x0.12 shims!
Thanks for the formula, I always enjoy learning new stuff!
Nice video and yea I heard you mention that you were thinking of getting the Race Tech gold valves, they are worth it! I installed a set of gold valves on a 99' YZ250 for a friend and got the right springs for his setup according to what Race Tech recommends. He is really happy with the results and yes I did his shock too.
Good work on your buddies suspension. If your have any tips post them here, I am always looking for more knowledge.
Thanks a ton.
That is a very interesting comparison. I've never done anything beyond fork seals. Trying to make sense of it in mind and thinking the oil flows between the shims and therefore more shims means more oil can flow. Not sure if that's right or not. Also, is that the compression side or the rebound side? Assuming there would be another stack somewhere in there.
Both of them only had one rebound shim that was the exact same size 25mm diameter and .43 thick, this makes sense as the rebound is only driven by the fork spring and they both have roughly the same spring rate. The way that it was explained to me is that the shims bend to allow the oil to flow past them rather than through them. The thinner wr shims were noticeably more flexible than the thicker yz ones. So it seems that more thin shims gives a softer ride than fewer thick ones, but keep in mind I have very limited knowledge on the subject. I just like to know how stuff works.
NVMCRIDER I enjoy knowing how things work too. Thanks for the detailed response. Great video.
@@nvmcrider8475 I do not think the spring and large thick washer is the rebound stack. It is a check valve that allows oil to flow in one direction, maybe during rebound, but there should be another 2 stacks inside there somewhere. A true rebound stack and a mid-range stack.
@@250txc a rebound stack is on the piston inside the cartridge - I can tell you even more, at the top of the cartridge where the seal is there is another shim stack between the seal and the bush for high speed rebound.
I'm doing this valving now....Seeing all the same-sized shims on top of the WR stack is really confusing... And no cross-over shim either ... I was removing those large shims off the top trying to make my 48mm KYBs softer to no avail.
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Gonna add 5-6 more large shims on the top and remove the cross-over as my next attempt at plushness.
Take some pics or do a video, I'm interested in how it turns out.
Read the comment by bwhaskel, he has some good insight.
@@nvmcrider8475 THXS but none of his words explain how having so many thinner shims on the WR stack makes the forks softer ... He just explained the relationship of the different thickness of the upper shims. Just gonna add more of the shims I have of the largest diameter to my stack.
@@nvmcrider8475 I'm more or less duplication the WR stack but I do not know the thickness of my shims .. The top ones are probably the same size as you have shown, again not sure on the thickness but they bend easily. Going with adding 3 more of the large, top shims than shown on the WR stack for my next test.
Sorry if this was already covered, but what year were these forks?
I'm trying to revalve a 2004 yz250f closer to wr calving, for woods riding. Thanks!
The wr forks were off a 2003 and the yz forks were 2002. Just copy the large 24 mm diameter wr shims and leave everything else alone. You could also just remove 2 of the yz 24mm shims and I think that would be close. You will get plusher small bump action at the expense of bottoming on big jumps. Also read the comment by bwhaskel for more insight.
I'd bet there are some notable differences in your mid valve as well. The balance of mid to base calling is of large importance.
I put the WR base valves in the YZ forks and they worked really well for desert riding.
I would love to see someone do this sort of layout with the AOS/SSS cartridge forks.
There is a good video on disassembling sss forks by tuning by Travis tbt, but it doesn’t get into the shim stacks. Maybe in the spring when I change my fork oil I will dig into this.
@@nvmcrider8475 Yeah I have watched that video like 100 times... I have an 06 YZ250F and would like to re-shim it and have been given several shim stack "recipes" but not sure if they go on with top being first on or last on... LOL I am a visual learner and the videos help considerably.
BTW how is the wrist healing? Hope it is going well.
@@johnchafin3817 The wrist is coming around, I had surgery on it 3 weeks ago and now all of the pain is gone.
I had the 07 yz 250f and thought the forks were really good for a 220 lb desert rider. What type of feel are you looking for with your forks? My 2015 WR forks really aren't much softer or plusher than the 07 yz's.
@@nvmcrider8475 I used to ride in the desert back in ABQ but now I live in Alabama. The trails are single track with lots of rocks and roots. The stock MX forks want to deflect at low speed so looking to plush it up some. I bought some softer fork springs andnew Zeta aluminum enduro style free pistons so that is my next mod. Also got matching shock spring for my weight as well so will see how all that goes then tear into the shim stack if I need it plusher.
I was wondering if you could help me out I have a 1996YZ 250 and basically there’s no rebound left on the forks I was wondering is there anyway you could rebuild the inner damping rod I took it apart but could not find how to separate the rod from the actual casing is that even possible thanks in advance
chris carnevale unfortunately both of my arms are in casts from a recent crash so it will be a couple of months until I can dig into this.
NVMCRIDER Oh wow sorry to hear that
@@chriscarnevale628 I have the accident footage posted. Do your forks have the rubber dampeners on top of the fork springs?
I wished you could post pictures on here but it’s basically at the bottom of the fork you need a 14 mm Allen key to unscrew it and then basically it is a white tube with valving inside with the damping rod that pulls up and down I’m trying to access the valving but do not know how to open the tube up
just goes to show that there is a lot of BS marketing in suspension and so much of it is pretty much the same.