yeah me too, I would like to know what is the most I can get away with. Its a big secret I guess. So many videos talk about the nut but nobody wants to say how low it can go?
@@slooky14 trial and error I guess, go low until it buzzes too much then shim it up, how many millimeters is the question, also every slot can be adjusted
What height should the strings be above the first fret and does the nut slot height affect string clearance when notes are fretted? I have a 7 string classical that's proving difficult to set up and I'm trying to diagnose the problem. It has only 0.005 clearance at the 7th fret with 1st and 12th fret held and the action is 3.5mm at the 12th fret. I think it needs more relief?
That's ( 0.005" ) not enough clearance for a classical. The nut does not affect clearance once you start fretting. As you know... in most cases .... classical guitars don't have a truss rod ( not needed ). Are some of the notes " splatting out " ? I would need more info and detailed photos to answer your concerns.
@@StringTechWorkstations Thanks for replying - no, all notes are clear but only when played free stroke and since it is a Brazilian guitar it sometimes requires to be played hard and there is too much buzzing for me. I am trying higher tension strings to see if that helps.
I bought a classical guitar and the saddle has quite a bit of rise on my six-string area and I don't know how to fix it it seems like am I wrong in thinking they cut the saddle for a steel string but it has a classical top because it has the dip on the G string
@@StringTechWorkstations No but its been 20 yrs and it was a student one ,the neck was cracked ...etc so it wasnt my passion to get it right but now at 49 im getting the urge to finally learn from the guitars abilities to my own knowledge and theory and so on ..lol.Hence noticing the issues that made my $100 guitar such a deal...
It is hard to give you valid guidance without knowing more details about this guitar. But I will say this ... the height of the strings from the fingerboard on a classical guitar ... is typically MUCH higher than the steel string guitars. The looser classical strings have a much wider oscillation pattern and need more clearance to vibrate.
Ah ok and I am more familiar with steel strings I had a beautiful Alvarez and the strings were much closer to the neck.My classical now is a Yamaha CGS103A. no major damages just a saddle tbat wiggles when not strung and literally falls out of groove also.
How deep should the grooves be on the nut? I just installed a new nut but u sure how deep the grooves should be sanded how to measure it out . Thanks. Great channel
Determining the values of the Compensated Nut and Compensated Bridge saddle are covered in detail for my Patreon Tier 3 subscribers ... with hours of extensive dedicated videos. Tools / supplies / comp nut + saddle blanks / discussion of scale lengths / string gauges / action preferences / fret tolerances etc ...... all of these variations are addressed; in order to deal with the constant " moving target " values on both ends of the scale. Thanks for asking.
Nice video. Every nylon strung guitar I’ve ever played has had moderate to extreme intonation issues. Trying to achieve a sort of equal temperament type tuning requires huge attention to detail, time for both the strings and the wood/tension to settle and even then, only certain keys/chords will sound reasonably in tune with each other. The plain third is usually the most difficult to deal with, but in general, they can all be problematic. I think Segovia said something similar (and his guitars were probably the best that any amount of money could buy).
The pitch displacement is not as severe as it is with the the steel string guitars; when pulling the string down to contact the fret crown. Thus the thinner saddle on the classical guitars. Other than the slightly lengthened "G" string ... it is a lot more forgiving than the steel string intonation.
Hello, your video is great. But I have a guestion. Is a guitar playable at all if it is not intonated, if guitar does not have total intonation. For example, if we have optimal action and guitar is in tune in open string position, is that enough, or we need that also in 12th fret? Thanks a lot.
Classical guitars are generally more "in tune" than the steel string guitars.The displacement of pitch ( sharpening effect ) is much less, with the lower tension strings. I don't bother with a compensated nut on Classicals. The open string and 12th fret should be in tune.
@@StringTechWorkstations Good to know. Let me know if yo do another nut compensation video package. I'd love to learn ahead of my first "real" solid body build.
nice that you can sightread. thats hard on guitar
did you mention action height in this video and how to determine, I'd like to make the nut low as possible
yeah me too, I would like to know what is the most I can get away with. Its a big secret I guess. So many videos talk about the nut but nobody wants to say how low it can go?
@@slooky14 trial and error I guess, go low until it buzzes too much then shim it up, how many millimeters is the question, also every slot can be adjusted
@@banjoboy01 Thanks
nut height is the same as 0 fret, you need to low as fret height, lower will buzz
Great video,teaches you,if your careful and you take your time..anyone can do it,even me!!😊
Absolutely! MMcC
Name app....tunning?
ClearTune
@@StringTechWorkstations thank you......
What is the height in 12th fret, E low and E High?
That was a few years ago ... but typically 6th=5mm / 1st = 3mm ... that can vary slightly depending on the players' preference.
What the name of the tuner app you use on your iPhone?
ClearTune.
What height should the strings be above the first fret and does the nut slot height affect string clearance when notes are fretted? I have a 7 string classical that's proving difficult to set up and I'm trying to diagnose the problem. It has only 0.005 clearance at the 7th fret with 1st and 12th fret held and the action is 3.5mm at the 12th fret. I think it needs more relief?
That's ( 0.005" ) not enough clearance for a classical. The nut does not affect clearance once you start fretting. As you know... in most cases .... classical guitars don't have a truss rod ( not needed ). Are some of the notes " splatting out " ? I would need more info and detailed photos to answer your concerns.
@@StringTechWorkstations Thanks for replying - no, all notes are clear but only when played free stroke and since it is a Brazilian guitar it sometimes requires to be played hard and there is too much buzzing for me. I am trying higher tension strings to see if that helps.
Good move.
I need to know the name of this song
Grazioso by Mauro Giuliani
I bought a classical guitar and the saddle has quite a bit of rise on my six-string area and I don't know how to fix it it seems like am I wrong in thinking they cut the saddle for a steel string but it has a classical top because it has the dip on the G string
Is this your first classical guitar ?
@@StringTechWorkstations No but its been 20 yrs and it was a student one ,the neck was cracked ...etc so it wasnt my passion to get it right but now at 49 im getting the urge to finally learn from the guitars abilities to my own knowledge and theory and so on ..lol.Hence noticing the issues that made my $100 guitar such a deal...
It is hard to give you valid guidance without knowing more details about this guitar. But I will say this ... the height of the strings from the fingerboard on a classical guitar ... is typically MUCH higher than the steel string guitars. The looser classical strings have a much wider oscillation pattern and need more clearance to vibrate.
Ah ok and I am more familiar with steel strings I had a beautiful Alvarez and the strings were much closer to the neck.My classical now is a Yamaha CGS103A. no major damages just a saddle tbat wiggles when not strung and literally falls out of groove also.
How deep should the grooves be on the nut? I just installed a new nut but u sure how deep the grooves should be sanded how to measure it out . Thanks. Great channel
Approximately 1mm. The width of the nut slot string-to-string is more crucial than the depth.
Where did you get the intonation values (notes on paper) from, or did I miss something?
Determining the values of the Compensated Nut and Compensated Bridge saddle are covered in detail for my Patreon Tier 3 subscribers ... with hours of extensive dedicated videos. Tools / supplies / comp nut + saddle blanks / discussion of scale lengths / string gauges / action preferences / fret tolerances etc ...... all of these variations are addressed; in order to deal with the constant " moving target " values on both ends of the scale. Thanks for asking.
Nice video.
Every nylon strung guitar I’ve ever played has had moderate to extreme intonation issues. Trying to achieve a sort of equal temperament type tuning requires huge attention to detail, time for both the strings and the wood/tension to settle and even then, only certain keys/chords will sound reasonably in tune with each other. The plain third is usually the most difficult to deal with, but in general, they can all be problematic.
I think Segovia said something similar (and his guitars were probably the best that any amount of money could buy).
The pitch displacement is not as severe as it is with the the steel string guitars; when pulling the string down to contact the fret crown. Thus the thinner saddle on the classical guitars. Other than the slightly lengthened "G" string ... it is a lot more forgiving than the steel string intonation.
Dam that was clean work can you do mine...lol
Lol !
Hello, your video is great. But I have a guestion. Is a guitar playable at all if it is not intonated, if guitar does not have total intonation. For example, if we have optimal action and guitar is in tune in open string position, is that enough, or we need that also in 12th fret? Thanks a lot.
Classical guitars are generally more "in tune" than the steel string guitars.The displacement of pitch ( sharpening effect ) is much less, with the lower tension strings. I don't bother with a compensated nut on Classicals. The open string and 12th fret should be in tune.
Did you have to compensate the nut at all? It seems the saddle took care of most of it.
Nope. Not necessary on the nylon string guitars. The Spaniards figured that one out centuries ago ... ;^ ) Lol !
@@StringTechWorkstations Good to know. Let me know if yo do another nut compensation video package. I'd love to learn ahead of my first "real" solid body build.
Hey Matt. Everything you need to know is on my Patreon Channel Michael McConville's Guitar Repair and Design Classes.... Patreon.com/ Guitarchitect