Guitar Setup 101: Make your instrument easier to play!
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- Your guitar could be holding you back. If it isn't "setup" properly, the instrument will be hard to play and that can limit your musical abilities or worse, cause excess tension and lead to an injury. With the help of expert luthier @MarshallBrune (Mebrune.com), in this video you will learn how to easily more your guitar easier to play at home with a simple setup.
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Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
1:24 Playability
2:14 Step #1: Check the Action
3:46 Step #2: The saddle
5:12 Step #3: Filing nut slots
6:32 Step #4: Polish
7:27 Step #5: Shim the nut
9:25 Step #6: Oil the tuners
10:05 Conclusion
I am Brandon Acker. I create guitar tips, classical music covers, educational videos about rare plucked instruments, tutorials, and more! Consider checking out my new online guitar course: classicalguitar-pro.com and supporting me on my Patreon / brandonacker
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This was 1 of the most straight forward, easy to understand, home adjustments for guitars I've seen. Thank you much
When sanding down the bottom of the saddle, it's a good idea to mark the bottom edge so you can see how much you're sanding off. With time you can do as Marshall does it. But in the beginning having a reference is important so you don't take off too much. Just run a small felt marker lightly along the bottom corners. If you want to take off a little more on one end, just press a little harder gradually as you head to the other side when marking it.
Better yet, use painters tape (usually blue) to cover the upper part so the mark doesn't spread up too high. Make sure the tape is exactly to the edge of where you want to stop. Then lightly run the marker across the bottom corners. Better still, use only the tape, but you need a sharp eye for that.
Note: I'm *not* a luthier (though I'd love to learn), but I was a professional woodworker for 3 decades, and as a guitarist and instructor for 4 decades, I know a few things about setup. Just enough so I haven't forgotten what it's like being a novice. But if someone like Marshall says I'm wrong, it's probably wise to assume they know better. 🙂
Thanks for your tip! I too wondered about shaving the bottom of the bridge and thought that maybe I might use Vernier calipers to measure the bridge (and nut) height's progress.
my dad just gifted me his (very old) nylon string guitar. this videos timing could not be better!
Marshall is so kind, friendly, professional, and exquisitely knowledgeable. I always love seeing videos of his workshop. Thanks for the fantastic video!
Gay
he is also very funny
@@chuckminzenberger7590 he's giving us all a gay old time
The camera loves him, the guy's an absolute character
He's dam cool. He set up my guitar several times when I lived in Chicago. Marshall if you're reading this hope you are doing well haha
Mehdi J
It was great having you over!!!
Marshall, why do you say that you never want to see a neck that is dead straight? What are you looking for, then? Thanks.
The most import thing that people forget to mention: You cannot determine the action on your guitar or take any meaningful measurements unless your guitar is IN TUNE. Your guitar has to be IN TUNE every step of the way during a setup and you need to keep RETUNING it after every little adjustment. If the guitar is out of tune you cannot take any meaningful measurements and you will make a mess out of the setup.
ThanQ, I shall remember that.-)
Wow, I was literally examining one of my guitars the other day and thinking,
“gosh, my action sure is pretty extreme, I wonder what I could do to modify it.”
Look at you guys coming in to save the day
Nice!
Thank you. I have only now (after 30 years) realised how high my action was on my classical (bought from new). 4.5mm - 4.5mm . Have now rectified and wow! What a difference.
Glad it helped!
Excellent info and well presented. This is stuff that every guitarist should learn, even if they never attempt to do any of the work themselves, so they know what problems to look out for.
I had to do this to a new guitar only 2 weeks ago, only that I bought a left-handed model (so the shop told me) however it was a right-handed model with the strings swapped round. This meant the saddle was way to high on the treble side and to low of the bass side (the saddle was setup with a ramp up to the bass side and once the strings were swapped around it was horrible).
I took the saddle and flipped it around then used a file to re-cut the top (where the stings contact), making it a defined edge as Marshall talked about in the video with Rob Scallon.
With a quick bit of filling on the nut, I managed to get it playing super easy, no fret buzz or intonation issues, and ending with 3.1mm on the bass side and 2.9mm on the treble side, and since I have a very light playing style, its works a dream.
All this I have learnt from both yourself (Brandon) and Marshall, Thank you for all the gems of knowledge, and been an inspiration for classical guitar players all over the world.
My fingers are hiding behind my thumb right now, peeking worriedly around the side..
I hear tiny cries of _"What the hell?"_ and _"Please Gods, No!"_
Seriously, that sounds so uncomfortable. I had a friend who played a left handed bass, but before that he learned on a right-handed guitar and just played with the strings upside down. When he was playing something complex, he didn't know music theory beyond basic Major and minor chord names, so I would just look at what he was doing and imagine play that upside down.
It wasn't easy, but it helped me seeing how things worked from a different angle, and I think it helped my overall understanding a bit. Or at least kept me sober a little more often.
Very helpful and just when I needed exactly this information. Thank you! Let me suggest using a high quality odorless sewing machine oil instead of 3 in 1 which makes my practice room smell like an oily garage. I always oil my machine heads when I change strings.
I actually ended up changing my string tension after watching a video where you mentioned light tension string. I had no idea that existed and it has made quite a difference in my playing, made it more comfortable, and I realized the strings weren't exactly replaced right either.
Thank you for all the videos you make with Marshall. They are always so educational and it heightens my interest in the guitar so much more! Can't wait to see more and hopefully I'll get to be there for your class next month!
Hey Brandon, I'm a big fan of you. I'm from Albania and I play the guitar. I also play a traditional albanian instrument called çifteli. I would love it if you did a review on this instrument like you did with the oud. I promise that it will not disappoint. Thank you and take care!
Damn Marshall rocking the Patek Tiffany Nautilus 😮
Always love videos featuring Marshall!!!
These guys are so amazing to watch when they work together
Literally got a new guitar to learn on and thankfully had a friend recommend I have it looked over, and thankfully I had a friend who is also a luthier take care of it for me! Great timing on the video!
Great little video. Loving the content recently Brandon, thanks! And thanks to Marshall for teaching us a thing or two :)
I wish at least a good part of my three decades as a professional woodworker had been learning to be a luthier.
Just what I needed, thank you!
cheers! I did it on my Cuenca 50R n it is now a lot easier to play and the sound has improved too! 😊
Marshall the coolest luthier out there… thanks for this great partnership. Such a wealth of knowledge between you two.
This is amazing, thank you so much. I've played on and off for years but never done my own bridge or nut work. Let the experimenting begin!!!!
Step #4 was a nice new tip. Hadn't thought of adding a mild abrasive (car polish) to the old bass string to polish the nut slots.
Thanks for sharing guys! I have a Cordoba C7 that I was about to return because it was not very playable due to the high action; I followed these simple steps and WOW what a difference! I can not thank you enough!
I'm happy to hear that!
I also gotten myself a C7, and the action is almost 5mm! Funny that you also experienced it. I’m totally new to playing guitar, but this step seems like an easy DIY.
Talk about the sorrows of play ability; I bought a brand new guitar in 1978 - just like the one you are holding Brandon - though mine is a 1975 Ramirez East Indies A1 blue boarder label imported by Antigua Casa Sherry Brener Ltd (Chicago) which I bought in San Diego (btw the number under the fret board is #7). Though I loved the guitar initially it turned out the neck had a whooptie doo (was bent or shall we say had a scoop). Over a relatively long period of time I just sort of lived with it and then later bought a Ramirez Brazilian from my teacher Vincenzo Macaluso in Thousand Oaks thus favoring it and kinda setting the 1975 aside though luckily I did not sell it though I almost did.
Eventually after talking to various repair guys I turned the 1975 over to Yuris Zelts at Blue Guitar in San Diego who "heat bent" the neck. The result was amazing as the 1975 blew away the Brazilian, which I subsequently sold and, though this was done like 20 years ago, the neck is still perfect.
Much later with a different guitar I discovered a similar problem though it was fixed much differently. Through James Tyler my teacher at USC I obtained an ~1830s vintage Colin French Parlor guitar. Long story short after dealing with other problems it turned out the neck on it too had a whooptie doo. So, I took it to a good friend and luthier here in Crete who, whilst I watched, trussed the neck up in a vise and a jig and then amazingly laided down a bead of Super Glue on either side of each fret. He let is sit for about a half hour while we drank a little Tskoudia and then, taking the neck out of the jig, the neck was restored to perfect and has remained so.
So, there are many ways to skin the play ability cat Brandon!
Excellent video! Marshall is a maven! Thank you, Brandon!
Thanks for the tips for diy set up
Thank you so much for this very helpful information. My guitar has pretty good playability, especially down at the nut. It has a bit higher action as you go up the fretboard, but thankfully, it's not bad at all. Still, it's good to know that an adjustment can be made if needed. Thanks again, guys!
Well done, concise, and easy to follow video!
That Tiffany nautilus on Marshall’s wrist…what a baller 😂
Lol I just keep staring at the Tiffany coloured Nautilus 😂 exquisite taste Marshall!
Is that true, it’s worth around 2.8mil! Wow
I can’t believe he’s wearing this. He’s very succeeding I guess
That caught my eye as well, but I can't see any Patek name on the dial, I wonder if it is real?
@@allan2098 Indeed! It looks good though :)
Marshall's the best, thanks to both of you!
That was helpful - thank you so much. I have one guitar that measures fine for action on the 12th fret, but turns out was too high at the nut. Your guidance helped me make the changes at the nut, and it has made a big difference! Hats off to you gents! 🙏
Ever since that video with the $300 Yamaha that was set up properly, I've really been wanting a Yamaha flamenco guitar. This video will help should I ever get one!
Join me on Zoom July 15th for a guitar masterclass: arpeggiato.com/events/
1:22 : As an old metalhead like me, Brandon knows about needing a Marshall.
Great video - Marshal is master class for sure - thx
Fascinating great advice thank you
Thanks for that polishing technic on the nut 😊😊😊
Solid beginner info!!! I wish this was available way back when I started!...I once over sanded a slotted saddle made out of hyena bone on 56 japanese classical!....even flamenco players would say no bueno! I shimmed it up with a few layers of shaved spent gift card plastic and was good to go! I've also heard heard of builders using aluminum as it's easier to add and take away to obtain the perfect balance...
Great info, thanks a mil fellas.
Thought I knew all of this but watched anyway because your stuff is great. Why did I never think of lubricating tuners? What an idiot! Definitely doing that now!
Greatly appreciated your video very helpful
thank you so much! Great work!
I got my 750€ Walden CG570CEB set up 4 or 5 years ago (guitar is over 10 years old). Lowered the action considerably by lowering both nut and sadle AND sanding down the frets a little. After I put some really good strings on it I could not believe just how good it played. Yes, it does buzz if you hammer it, but it just plays to easy now.. much better than many guitars 5 times its price. I'll have to change frets in a while because I tend to pit them fairly quickly, and I'll maybe put some better electronics into it (it's electro-acoustic), but other than that.. perfect guitar for me.
Thanks for this. I've owned a couple of classical guitars where the strings were too high. Didn't know this could be corrected.
Getting close to the 5K viewers! Looking forward to playing that guitar!!!! ❤
This is an excellent video 👏👏👏
Very useful
Nice video!
My main guitar is an Ibanez AEL30, which I purchased in 2007. I used it for my classical guitar lessons (no fingernails). I believe I had been playing for 6 months or more, and happen to be at the guitar store where I was taking lessons. I happen to show the store owner the callouses I developed on the tips of my fingers on my fretboard hand. They were the type of dark dead skin callouses you get if you use a shovel on a regular basis without gloves. Based on the shocked look on his face I do not think the store owner ever saw anything like it. He let me know the guitar needed to be setup. I also have a cheap $100 Takamine that I use (primarily) for finger exercises. I had it set up as well, but I am sorry I did. I would recommend that if you have a cheap practice/exercises guitar, keep it close to the factory setup. This will build hand strength and it toughens your fingertips. Also, it makes it more likely that you will be able to play any guitar, regardless of the setup. If all your guitars have perfect setup, picking out you next guitar might be a frustrating experience.
Marshall is my new superhero.
Thank you!!!
Thank you ♥
Thank you, that was very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful.
well done
Thank you
very helpful
A couple of questions for Marshall, please. Polishing the nut slot: I assume you were using a wound string? Second, you determined that the saddle was a little high by measuring it above the 12th fret. Is there a simple rule of thumb for height above the first fret to determine correct nut slot height? You just seemed to say that it seemed okay as it was, but how would you know if it were too high?
thanks for the method of lowering the strings....the string used to polish the nut slots..you didn't identify if it's a cotton kite string or a certain guitar string..would you? thanks
I love to make these litle adjusts im my guitar.
Very helpful
Just did this a week ago. $80 at my Luthier. Wish I saw this video first.
If you can afford it, a really good professional setup can make a guitar feel amazing. If they're really good at it, the difference so great that I would always do that if I could afford to.
Instead I have to do te best I can myself. It's better than nothing, but after experiencing one of the best (the guy who invented fanned frets), it's just not the same.
Is the setup at my local guitar center a “professional” job or is it a guy like me who watched a RUclips video 🤔
Wish you were close to the Boston area. :D
Please post a performance video of tango en skai
5:24 very carefully work the nut
Good video.
Love the business card trick. Fun fact bowling alleys have poker card shims
I would very much like to come by to see you(r shop) and perhaps purchase a good guitar.
Unfortunately I am European, and you live on a whole other continent than mine...-/
But, very good videos you are doing with the Ackerman. You (seem to) know what you are doing!
That's a nice watch, Marshall!
I thought it was a Patek Nautilus Tiffany Blue for a second.
@@felix111 That's it!
Thanks, this is helpful. What about truss rod adjustement? My Cordoba C7 has a truss rod and I tried to fiddle with it once (I was very careful).
@marshallbrune
Marshall. You are the MAN. I've watched countless videos trying to find the best and most concise tutorials for guitar maintenance and you just earned the number one spot. THANK YOU so much for this video, Brandon. Special thanks to Marshall as well. 🙏
Some local guitar shops and luthiers recommend using metal polish on the frets and lemon oil on the fretboard (both sparingly). What is your advice?
interesting, so your saying that the tiny flamenco guitar i never knew how to tune was not in fact indicative of what a guitar learning journey might be like... is 32 too late to learn? lets find out! but ill make sure i start out this time with a setup that will help not hinder. Thanks to both of you, great informative video as always. i always come away feeling more hopeful about the possibilities
It's never too late to learn. I was known as a shredder in my teens and by the time I was in my 20's I was transcribing Bach and Paganini violin for electric guitar. Back then I played or studied music at least 8 hours per day. In the 90's though they said I played too good and to knock it off.
Instead I knocked them off and took up playing less rock, metal, and classical, and didn't practice much if at all, though I was learning more styles. Then in my 40's I started practicing about 4 hours a day, but was practicing smarter and was soon able to play faster and more precise than I'd ever been able to do before.
These days I'm mostly learning a ton of music theory from YT videos.
So yes, the age thing only matters if you have arthritis or something debilitating.
Even then, some people overcome such things...
Andres Segovia was an amazing classical guitarist even in his 90's.
Django Reinhardt saved his little brother from a fire, and in the process burned off the third and forth fingers of his fret hand down to just the first digit. He is considered the premier Gypsy Jazz guitarist in the world.
Tony Iommi the guitarist for Black Sabbath on his last day at work just a couple of weeks before their first tour, had his middle and ring fingers (most of the first joint) chopped off by a steel cutter. He melted plastic pens to shape new finger tips, and glued them on.
Last year I had something (they haven't figured out the problem still) cause massive pain, swelling, and stiffness in my hands to the point where I could barely dress myself and could only play a couple of notes on the high string.
I refused to just give up though, and kept patiently stretching my fingers a tiny bit more each day. I often thought about those three when it was really bad.
Now I can play most scales, and even a couple of violin parts. But I can't play even most of the open string chords like D, G, E, and C. I may never be able to play barre chords again too, but I'm not giving up on that either. In the meantime I find some work arounds.
Anyway, I guess my point is that where there's a will, there's more often a way.
_The optimist is far more likely to keep trying, thus drastically increasing their chances for success._
_Whereas the pessimist is far more likely to just give up, thus ensuring their own failure._
This is the incredible power of _Hope._ Never lose it.😊
I'm 70 and learning, so just be sure to practice smart.
@@aylbdrmadison1051 appreciate the words and best of luck with your own playing, hope you have plenty of music in your future!
Thank you @brandonacker for this segment. I enjoyed very much. Just subscribed to your channel although I have watched many of your RUclips videos. Nw I won't miss anything, Thanks again. Martin
Ouah, I'll go seeking a luthier.
3:42 Omg i glued mine,i will remove the glue now 🙏
Do it, or he's coming for you! ;-)
I'll try to hold Marshall off for a few minutes but you better act fast!
@@brandonacker right away sir🏃🏃🏃
Thanks Marshall, very useful. My guitar's action is 4mm at fret 12 and I've always felt that it made things tricky around fret 9 upwards so I'll have a go at lowering it (probably in stages). Brandon, did you notice any difference in playability after Marshall's tweaks?
_"probably in stages"_ I'm no lutheir, but was a professional woodworker for 3 decades. And wanted to point out that in case anyone else was wondering, that is absolutely correct if you're just starting out. Also, I'll just paste the main comment I left..
[Quote] When sanding down the bottom of the saddle, it's a good idea to mark the bottom edge so you can see how much you're sanding off. With time you can do as Marshall does it. But in the beginning having a reference is important so you don't take off too much. Just run a small felt marker lightly along the bottom corners. If you want to take off a little more on one end, just press a little harder gradually as you head to the other side when marking it.
Better yet, use painters tape (usually blue) to cover the upper part so the mark doesn't spread up too high. Make sure the tape is exactly to the edge of where you want to stop. Then lightly run the marker across the bottom corners. Better still, use only the tape, but you need a sharp eye for that.
Note: I'm *not* a luthier (though I'd love to learn), but I was a professional woodworker for 3 decades, and as a guitarist and instructor for 4 decades, I know a few things about setup. Just enough so I haven't forgotten what it's like being a novice. But if someone like Marshall says I'm wrong, it's probably wise to assume they know better. 🙂
[End quote]
@@aylbdrmadison1051 Thanks. Sounds like good advice.
3:01
Literally, just watched a video where a “master guitar tech“ said that looking down the neck was useless. 😂
I have a "cheap" that was surprisingly good when I found it in a store and since had 3 decades to age like fine wine. Since I also like to play wild and pretty much everywhere Iand found possible replacements online (Eterna EC 10) I'll love over an actual high priced, artist build guitar. But; The action still seems to be great, yet to make it even a bit better, I'd like to change the nut and saddle to bone ones (currently pvc) and the nut is glued in. What is the best way to loosen it without hurting the rest of the guitar?
Marshall, are you wearing a Patek to do wood work?!
Brandon, how come you aren't on spotify?
The algorithm is trying to hide this vid bc i searched for how to improv cheap classical guitar and this was only a suggestion out of a string of videos. Not in the scrolling and scrolling of result.
You can actually lubricate the capo's "string slots" with graphite.
In fact graphite it's a dry lube and just scratching it with a little bit of pencil will be great!
If you don't believe me try your self!😉
You mean the nut slots. Yes you can put graphite in them.
@@brandonacker yeah exactly! Greate video anyway, I really love your channel!
Brandon, i just watched your Oud video, and now i need you to look at the Turkish Saz!
Any chance that might happen ?
Hi :) I'm interested in the saz but I don't have time to learn it. Hopefully one day!
Marshall wears a fine watch
For a non initiated, the explanation is quite incomplete. For the saddle, after evaluating the height that needs off, first identify the bass or trebble sides , marking with a pencil if necessary, then measure the height in the middle with a calliper before and during the sanding so you know how much/fast you sanded away.
As well, sanding by hand can affect the flatness of the bottom of the saddle since the pressure of the hand is uneven ( in length AND laterally), and the very movement of sanding tends to wear off more the bouts. I always check that putting a light behind the saddle on a flat surface. To correct low or high spots, do not try sanding again the whole length but only the spot that need sanding. To sand only the center of the saddle, sand diagonally on the corner of the sanding paper. For the bouts, sand perpendicular on the side to the sheet, letting the unecessary bout out of the sheet.
I also use to hold the saddle in the middle, switch sides and to count how many sanding movements were made so I am sure both bouts wear at the same rate. Bone or plastic can wear off relatively fast depending of the force applied and to the paper you use (120 240)
For the nut, unless you have the proper fileS, I wouldnt touch it and let a pro do it.
The cardboard trick, I prefer wood from a matchbox, carpenter veneer or wood from some french Camembert box that I press first with a vise to add stiffness. Sounds probably better but they all are cellulosis anyway.
Cheers.
At the end he said no waxs, rejuvenators, etc.. Brandon, do you ever use a little spray on cleaner/polish or oil the fret board now and then?
Hi! No I don't use anything to clean the instrument.
I inherited a Cordoba Solista CD and took it to my guitar tech for a tune up, who does excellent work on my electric guitars and Taylor steel string acoustics. He said everything out there about a 3-4 mm range of string height on a classical guitar at the E strings on the 12th fret is nonsense, and it should be more like 1.5-2 mm. Something about the higher height is because of underbow and with a quality guitar like I have he can easily make it 1.5-2 mm with no buzzing. I am new to nylon string guitar playing and his advice seems to contradict everything out there, but like I said, he has never failed me when it comes to my other guitars. Any thoughts about what he is telling me?
It seems to me that he is speaking out of his comfort zone. I've never played a classical guitar with less than 2mm at the 12th fret 1st string. It would buzz like crazy. 2.5 is the lowest I've ever seen. If you can get that low, great but most guitars you'll find sit happily around 3mm and then the 6th string 12th fret will be a bit higher because of the thick string.
Thanks for the video, Brandon. I have a question for Marshall, though. I'd like him to explain why he said, "You don't ever want to see a neck that's dead straight."
@marshallbrune I'll let him respond.
In case Marshall hasn't responded yet: not having the correct curve can cause fret buzz, or the string just "fretting out" so it doesn't sound the note and has no sustain at all. I can't explain exactly why though. I'm fairly certain the effect is more pronounced on an acoustic. You don't want a big curve though, just the right amount. I don't even know to correct that without a truss rod. It was something I hope Marshall talks about (haven't finished watching the video yet.. yea, I'm one of those people, lols).
@@aylbdrmadison1051 Thank you for your response, I appreciate it! I've studied guitar design and construction; built a couple of guitars ( one classical; one steel-string); and worked at an electric guitar factory. But I was never taught to look for a slight curve. Because you're right: too big of a curve; and you're not ever going to be able to stay in tune. 😊
I've got a question, is it necessary for a classical guitar to have a truss rod?
does anyone know the name of the painting in the intro with the arched guy?
In action bass the height becomes 3.3mm, then How is the height of the action on the treble side? This video is very helpful, I’ve been looking for where the right high action, I want to try it, thank you for sharing it 😊
Less than the bass on the treble. Ideal for me is something like 2.5mm on the treble
@@brandonacker thank you for replying
Let's say you have a guitar that already has a very low saddle that can't be lowered anymore without the strings touching the wood on the bridge but it still has a very high and very tight action? I bought a brand new and beautiful Yamaha solid top classical that had this very problem, paid 600 for it but the action was very high and very tight, so tight in fact that I had to tune it down a whole step just to be able to play it, and there was absolutely no room to adjust it any lower because the saddle had been shaved down to just a sliver above the bridge. I'm thinking it was something to do with the way they braced this particular instrument but it was unplayable and I returned it. This was unusual because most guitars today even lower-end student models leave a little room for adjustment and are not this difficult to play.
oh wow no lengthy intro nice
So u did not try the guitar after?
If you change the action, doesn’t this also change the intonation of the fretted notes? Thanks for the vid.👍
No the frets determine the intonation, not the action.
High action can ruin intonation as the string stretches slightly while pressing ,thus affecting pitch.
Is the business card shim ok for permanent or would you suggest eventually getting a new nut?
Permanent has been fine for me. I dont hear a difference
When is Marshall Brune coming to a European expo????????????
Nice video. Regarding the gut strings…how long do they last? I’d like to try them but they are 100€ per set!
If you play with nails get varnished gut. I recommend contacting Bostoncatlines.com
Those will last you awhile. The first string will last the least amount of time (maybe a month with nails) so I should get two of those.
You also only need to buy the top three. The basses can stay the same.
@@brandonacker thank you Brandon. Bostoncatlines wont work for me, I’m afraid, because I’m based in Europe. Import fees and taxes are problematic. I’ve just taken up the lute so I’m gradually filing my nails down a little every day. I’m liking the sound on my guitar the shorter I go although the feel takes a little getting used to. If you know a supplier of gut strings in the EU that would be wonderful. I found one but they only sell the Aquila full set. But I’ll keep looking.
@@DebbieBarrette Yes you can use Cuerdas Pulsadas!
@@brandonacker awesome! Thank you!
Brandon, now I'm curious. Why does Marshall not want a neck that is dead-straight -- If the nut and saddle are at a proper hight to prevent buzzing, but low enough to not put notes out of tune when a string is pressed to the fret bar?
Hopefully @Marshallbrune can answer that. I've always heard this from luthiers but couldn't articulate why it is necessary.
A question, why would a little furniture Polish be bad.