The plan bundle is awesome! Perfectly detailed! Took some argument with our miserable internet and various computer stuff but that's what grandkids are for.
Great book for a beginner . ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ this book really starts from the beginning, as in it explains what basic tools are and how to use them. But when it gets to the art of creating joints and how and when to use them this book really starts to teach you something. At least that was my experience.
I’ve been in the woodworking trade for decades. I love this series. You’re inspiring people to work with their hands and build stuff. I’ve got fancy power tools at work that any fine cabinet or furniture shop would love. I’ve got power tools at home that many hobby woodworkers would envy. But I’m happiest when I’m using plain Jane hand powered tools. Sure, throwing a table top on the surface sander is easy and fast. Yes, using a molder or shaper is quick. But does it fill you with pride? Meh, not like building a nightstand by hand does. You’re showing beginning woodworkers how to build the tools they will need. Which I think is a whole lot cooler than telling someone (I’m looking at you “New Yankee Workshop”) they need a $350 router or a $1,300 panel saw to do a project. Keep it up dude! I always look forward to seeing what you are up to next.
Do not be taken in by this guy. would you cut a sheet of ply on a dimension saw without first checking that the riving blade was set correctly and that a test piece went through without raising chips along the edge on both sides. Then you would not use a rebate or plough plane without a riving knife built into it. Putting a try square over a plane is usually a waste of time, close is all that is required for a shooting board as the blade can be adjusted by up to one degree to account for wear on the plane and wear on the shooting board. Flatting the sole of a plane dose nothing if you put a plane on fine sand paper and the leading edge, trailing edge and around the mouth shine then it is good to go, the sole between is just holding those three lines of contact together and dose not have to contact the work piece. I would suggest typing"Paul Sellers" into You Tube.
It’s nice seeing you include the mistakes. I know too many people starting out that watch videos like these see it go perfectly and then get frustrated when mistakes happen because they don’t think it happens to the pros.
also perfect tutorials do not teach the inventive thinking that joinery often requires..... shit happens.... heres how to deal with it until you can learn how to think yourself out of a corner.
I've learned more "in the field" from pro's who screwed something up (or had an underling like me help screw it up) and had to think how to fix it, than all the "perfect shop atmosphere examples" where everything was done right the first time. Shop classes are good for everyone, and all... but a lot of false hopes turn into epic personal disappointments when no examples of faults, flaws, and fixing are ever shown. Thinking on one's feet to figure it out and fix it is what separates a master craftsman from a frustrated quitter. ;o)
This is seriously the best channel on RUclips. This is life-changing stuff. I love the way Rex unplugs woodworking and gets folks using, like, tools. He needs a TV contract. Like, now. Either a show of his own, or at least a regular segment on another show. One of those PBS home-improvement shows, for example. C'mon, TV. Do something right for once. PS: My grandfather had one of those plough-planes. He had all that old stuff. I didn't know what they did, but I'm learning from Rex now.
For keeping epoxy out of nut threads, coat a bolt in vaseline and put it in the nut while you apply glue and place it in location. Particularly useful for those of us who like to go overboard with epoxy.
Rex, I've been watching some other woodworking channels on YT and had come to believe that I was soon going to need to upgrade my simple tablesaw to something fancier that could handle dado blades. These last few videos in this playlist about making hand tools to cut dados and rabets has got me feeling like maybe I can achieve these types of cuts without having to buy a whole new expensive power tool. Thank you for making all these videos
I think I've said this before but it bears repeating. I LOVE seeing videos like this which show "here's what I messed up and here's how I fixed that". I strongly believe that this is vital to encouraging new woodworkers by setting their expectations.
Just built my brand new groove plane today! I still remember those good times while I was in college and watch your video drinking beer. Now I work in a woodshop as a shop instructor, and I've made a couple of tools out of your videos, let's see... the spoke shave was the first one, then a rabbet plane(that kinda sucked), then the grooving plane. I even built 2 low work benches and a series of chairs and stools learned from your channel. Time flies!
Files with “safe sides” (aka “safe edges”) are under-appreciated. I lived most of my life without even knowing what a “safe side” was. But now I keep seeing more uses for one.
@@rojirrim7298 Can't count how many times someone has sneered down his nose at me, walking out of the store with a brand new file (cheap as possible) to proceed to grind off and polish a face... (coarse grinding compound at the auto-parts shop... usually finishes... right after a steel wire wheel deburs) It's okay... when they have a very controlled groove to make, and can't help gouging out the wrong directions, maybe they'll realize what the hell I was thinking "ruining a brand new tool"... (lolz) Works on rasps, too. ;o)
@@buzzgallagher Sandpaper tools and EMORY CLOTH (cap's for importance)... are great for some uses... USUALLY, for "odd shapes"... Take a file, and "tap" it with a grinder on the "offensive" side. Then debur it with a steel wire wheel (you can mount it on a drill... cheap) and whether or not you "finish" it with a grinding compound or some polish is up to you... Sometimes I do, and sometimes not.
I have to say this has been the best series I have watched. You show how to make tools in a very understandable way and take pains to make the projects as low cost as is possible. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this series.
These home made specialty planes are awesome! Man, I’ve learned a lot about woodworking just in the last few weeks since I found this channel. I’ve worked with metal forever and my wife has always been coaxing me to start wood working because it was so popular in her family and is familiar and sort of comforting to her. I have wanted to start too but I’ve always told her I don’t really know where to start and can’t afford to invest a ton of money in being fully equipped for what would now be the fourth trade I’ve fully tooled myself out for haha. Enter this channel. Since the pandemic started, I became 100x the woodworker and it’s very largely due to this channel. Thanks for all the effort you put into this, it’s almost like a clear and simple roadmap for lost people to navigate the craft starting out and nobody else is doing that. There are so many instructional videos out there that would be great for learning.... assuming one has a COMPLETELY tooled out professional woodwork shop.. which just isn’t normal people like me.
Rex, I find it much easier to start a groove using the wood body planes by starting at the end of the cut rather than the beginning. Then slowly lengthening the stroke.
Rex, I have a video suggestion. At this point, you have reviewed several tools for WWFH, build several custom planes, the bench, the vise, bench hook, etc. Maybe just a quick summary for everyone, to kind of take stock as to where we are at, what the overall kit and gear looks like, what our current abilities might be that we aren't imagining, and lay out what the future might look like? Just kind of a "we started here, here is where we are at, and here is where we are going." ?
Also an update on the reviews. In your tool reviews you say I see this wearing or this maybe a problem in the future. Would be nice to back over these tools and see how they are holding up.
May sound crazy brother, but this still has been the most valuable video I’ve had of yours. I own a No° 45 and actually now finally have a plough plane on order (3 months to go 🤪). The °45 just isn’t nearly as easy to use and consistent as using my Kruger grooving plane. I benefit from all you content in some way, but the gooving plane was just what I needed, right when I needed it. This video came back up in the algorithm today and so I thought I’d drop a line.
You sir are going to be the very first RUclipsr I've donated/purchased from. I love your channel and how you film and explain the projects! I'm heading to your website now. Keep up the great work.
I don't use a lot of the content in a direct sense (actually making the tools) but it definitely helps me look at my projects from a different angle. Thank you for your work. The funny parts are amazing.
Hey Rex, I really enjoy your Videos. The Simplicity and a loooot of information! I am going to build some tools from your Videos. Thank you for all your effort! Love the salt trick and am going to try this out soon! But maybe there is one thing, I can teach you 🤓, I hope i can explain you this, english is not my native language. When you sand or file corners, you are following the corner. Actually you have to do the oposite movement with your hand. You dont follow the corner but you move your hand up when your file or sanding block reaches the end end. You start with the tip of the sanding block on the corner/wood and end with the tip/the end of your Block on the wooden piece. This makes the corners really round. It does not sound logical but thats how i have learned this from a teacher long time ago 🤪 Love Your Videos, especially the simplicity 👌 Thank You
Yeh looks like Im going to be donating to the Rex Krueger Pizza Fund as well. Ive been watching stuff on ebay and to get hold of a Stanley No 71 router, Stanley No 78 Rebate plane and a Record 044 Plough Plane is around 350 - 400 clams Australian. Money that could go to my pizza fund well at least back into our Tree Nursery business. So, for 20 clams Australian Ill get Rex's plans and with some blood sweat and swearing Ill start to build my tool collection. Thanks Rex your a Good Bloke!!! (That's a compliment down under)
I decided to add a fence to the bottom of the grooving plane for width adjustment, cuz sometimes it can be really hard clamping a batten to a very narrow workpiece. Also I didn't make it fully braced but left the plane iron(chisel) half exposed, that way it's super handy for chips to exit. Now it takes spiral shavings that look like spring.
Aloha Rex, Good plow plane build and you didn't need to hitch up the mule team, either! I add to start the cut of the grove, begin the cut from the far end, taking your first shaves there and work your way back, making these cut longer and longer as you progress. It makes your guiding the plane easier and shaves better than trying to establish the width of the cut at the same time as the length. The cutter decides the width where ever it is placed, the depth stops control the final cutter's bite, but if you remove some of the strain of both by the final end being cut already, you are no longer sliding into uncut territory but that of a finished cut field, less chance of a miscut or cut gone arye. On your router plane, nice but cuts seem too deep and chisel shows it by flexing from the cuts you were making. Better to make lighter cuts and have finer shaves than hacking it out. Slips happen and lighter cuts save cuts in our hands.
@@RexKrueger well all norm taught us about was how you need to buy 13.8 million dollars worth of high end specialty equipment... and then you can make anything!
Hi Rex. You and Paul Sellers have become compulsory viewing for me this long summer and autumn of lockdown. Thanks so much for the sense of humour, bootstrap and cheapo innovation and for inspiring me to do stuff in my shed for fun as well as just maintenance. Just bought your plane bundle and will probably do the same for Paul if he has a similar one. AM looking forward to repurposing some old chisels I bought 15 years ago from a local second hand market ( here in the UK one does not go to a flea market unless one is a dog) and have just refined and sharpened. Keep it up, Rex and enjoy Thanksgiving week
Hey man, I purchased your bundle, not even because its a great deal (i am going to build some if not all of them) but because these are all great videos and i feel like i wanted to give a little back for all of your hard work!
Very nice, Rex. I'd have used a temporary fence for that very first rebate in the plane itself too, though I don't suppose the angle matters as much since you can just plane the sole later. For little pieces like those depth stops, I've found it really helps to laminate two pieces together with the grain crossed at 90°. It increases the strength immensely & will do away with any risk of the wood splitting along the grain when you apply pressure to those slots.
You could put a simple fence on that plane by drilling two holes through the plane then gluing 1/2 or 3/4 nuts into the holes. Then put the fence on the bolts (the fence should slide easily on the bolts but not wobble) and tread them into the nuts that are glued into the plane. Finally add wing nuts to the side opposite the fence to lock it in place. The fence is adjusted by screwing the bolts in or out and then is pushed against them when you plane the wood.
Thanks Rex.Really enjoyed that. Another,lazier(!) way to make the tool is by glueing 4 blocks together.As long as you have some stock for the central part which is exactly the same width as the chisel;then u can just cut an angle on each central piece to form the space for the chisel and wedge then glue on the 2 sides afterwards. Any fine tuning is done to the wedge after glue-up.
Another excellent video Rex, thumbs up and all that. I particularly like how you inset the depth guides. My hand made groove plane I bolted them on the side, one board, two thumb nuts. I like your version much better and will be editing mine very soon. I have to say, every time I watch something you make, I get inspired and head out to the shop. 👍
ive been trying to find out more about wood working becuse i need to make a display case for video games and the only thing i dont have to make it is a tool to make the grooves to make the channels for the glass and the channels that the shelf is it sit on. im being told im doing to much work for a display case for my store and i should just use L brackets and screws for my small 2 1/2 foot x 2 foot x 3 inch project
FOR SALE: tons of power tools, all sizes, brands, colors, working, not working, come and get'em! Bench-top models, floor models - if it's got a cord or a battery, it's for sale! See what you're making me do Rex? Do you SEE??? ;-)
Rex: I have used a piece of scrap wood clamped to my work piece and ran my plane side against the wall against the scrap wood to insure I stayed straight. I also used a knife to nick the side to prevent the plane from being pushed over on successive cuts.
You could take a look at some commercial shoulder plane (I like the veritas one) for some inspiration on ergonomics. If you have a chance to have one in your hands I'd definitively reccomend you do so
Instead of gluing a nut into the body and using "wing screws" (not found at my local big box store), could one glue in a hex bolt and screw on wingnuts or star knobs?
You might consider making a video that is similar to this, using one tooth from an old carbide saw. It would make thin grooves for perhaps the bottoms and backs of a home-made drawer. I can see making three widths of this tool for general purposes.
Antique brass doorknobs would make excellent handles for your planes. They come with a threaded bolt on the end that would be really easy to attach to the end of the plane without messing with the measurements and give your planes a comfortable pushing or control surface, and a unique look. I don't recommend those old crystal doorknobs though.. glass on a tool sounds like a bad idea...
Hey Rex, thanks from Germany for your inspiring videos!! I made your router plane and I wonder if I could just use that in combination with a clamped down board to make it work like this plow plane?
I wish I'd known about that use of a bench hook before I put it right to the bone of the index finger on my left hand (I was holding it stupidly) requiring 9 stitches.
Using chisels is great, but you should also go over how to make/harden your own blades out of scrap carbon steel (files, throwaway chisels, etc). As long as the cutting area is small enough to heat with a plumbers torch it's not that hard, and it opens up an entire world of customized tools.
Just fyi. Harbor Freight, at least my local one at any rate, has a no.4 jack and mini plane set for about $15 that you might look at as an option for the WWFH tool kit.
Im glad to see how you make things and it gives me good idears, but i have seen in my grandfathers shop, that he had some planes that have other shapes, like round curving out and curving in, for making Windows and so on, do you know how to make throws and make a video about it or do you know someone how build planes like that ?
I would pay a premium price in any bookstore for "Woodwork for Humans by Rex Krueger" that includes these plans and ideas. I've only recently found your channel Rex, and am eating up your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to make these.
Could you please explain the difference between this plane and the rabbet plane? They seem to be almost identical? I think I will try making the router plane and the rabbet plane, using the same chisel, but I also think I could use the same wedge (adapt the cutouts, instead of adapting the wedge). Thanks for the nice videos and inspiration.
They are very similar, the difference is with a rabbet it’s on the edge of the board, this is set a little back from the edge. I have my dads Stanley and it can be set for both depending where you position the fence
I recently found a wooden dado plane at an estate sale. It's missing both blades and one of the wedges. Thanks to your videos I feel confident I can make another wedge and add a chisel for the main cutting blade. But what do I do for a nicker blade (besides buying a blank and cutting and tempering it)? Any suggestions?
Rex, I really enjoy your videos and you're helping to aspire me to dabble in woodworking. Thank you. I'm re-watching this one already and I had a thought. Around 3:30 you're having trouble with the rabbet plane with the width of the cut and also the accuracy at the shoulder of the cut and I wanted to ask this: Would it make sense to make a big knife wall or saw cut along the line and then run a couple of saw cuts to approximate depth down the length of the waste first and then whack the bulk of the waste out with a chisel and mallet? Then the Rabbet plane could clean up the cut functioning as a linear router and to provide the nice finish. Just thinking out loud. I'm an IT Guy so take all of that with many grains of salt. Thanks again for your great content!
@@RexKrueger Cool, thanks! I was really asking not to nitpick but to have that extra info in my back pocket for if/WHEN I run into some trouble like that on my own. Keep up the good work!
The router plane looks like it could damage the walls of the cutout, is there a way to open up the front so the blade can be seen? Love the series and plan on making most of these once this rotator cuff is healed.....
I've a question, on the Shoulder/Rebate plane; being as how it's made in the laminated fashion how much harder would it be to cut the skew into the bed before laminating it to the backer board, and roughly what angle should that skew be cut to? Reason I ask is at the start of this video you said that the blade being straight made it harder to get a full cut because of the lack of a skew, and since I've not built mine yet I figure I can learn from listening and cut out the small inconveniences you find in the ones you have made. I do so enjoy these build your own damn tool videos tons of fun. Sry I missed the premiere no clue what I was doing so no good excuse
I don't think making the body of the plane would be too much more difficult. The issue you would have is the iron. You would either have to custom make one or radically re-grind a chisel to make it work. I think part of Rex's thinking for making the bed square to the body was to keep the chisel usable as a standard chisel as well functioning as the plane iron.
You're both right. I'm trying to make things very easy, but I don't think that skew iron would be such a big deal. I'm not sure. I haven't done it yet.
@@RexKrueger I've a very old shoulder plane, one where you have to place the iron in the body from the sole and the angle on the iron tip is very small like maybe 5° or 10° so I tried to set my chisel down with a skew and keep the tip flat on the bench but it was without much success. Reason I'm wanting to build a new one is that the body of my shoulder plane is bent/twisted out of shape that restoring it is pointless. Thinking that I may just keep the iron and wedge and rebuild the body, but I'm going to go the lamination route because I dont trust my skills with the complicated mortise required to make an antique style shoulder.
If you have not made your plane yet a lot of the old ones have the mortice for the iron go from side to side and only the tang goes through the body of the plane. That should make it somewhat easier to cut the bed for the iron. The mouth on these old plane is also often bigger than ideal since you take out the iron that way.
Вы когда-нибудь видели столярные тисы и рубанок из благородного дерева (бук, груша) ? Стесьняюь даже спросить, а сколько они тогда стоят? Жаль что не из канадского клёна, сосны или тополя, можно было бы сразу увидеть на влияние типа древесины на качество инструмента. Возможно если сосновую доску протиреть гуталином, она тоже будет тёмненькой но всёже не красным деревом. А стамеска могла бы и лучше резать, если угол будет 25-27* (для мягких пород древесины, а для дуба потребуется уже 29* Диапазон заточки всего 5* (25-30*) а влияние на качество реза - огромное.
![BRASIL vs. URUGUAY [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-hWBAuxF1eY/mqdefault.jpg)
The plan bundle is awesome! Perfectly detailed! Took some argument with our miserable internet and various computer stuff but that's what grandkids are for.
Perfect! That thing took a TON of work. So glad you like it.
Rex Krueger Do you offer metric plans, or are they all in inches?
@@kiryukhinens x 2.54 ? (grin)
@@Disappointed739 /25.4? :)
Great book for a beginner . ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ this book really starts from the beginning, as in it explains what basic tools are and how to use them. But when it gets to the art of creating joints and how and when to use them this book really starts to teach you something. At least that was my experience.
I’ve been in the woodworking trade for decades. I love this series. You’re inspiring people to work with their hands and build stuff. I’ve got fancy power tools at work that any fine cabinet or furniture shop would love. I’ve got power tools at home that many hobby woodworkers would envy. But I’m happiest when I’m using plain Jane hand powered tools. Sure, throwing a table top on the surface sander is easy and fast. Yes, using a molder or shaper is quick. But does it fill you with pride? Meh, not like building a nightstand by hand does. You’re showing beginning woodworkers how to build the tools they will need. Which I think is a whole lot cooler than telling someone (I’m looking at you “New Yankee Workshop”) they need a $350 router or a $1,300 panel saw to do a project. Keep it up dude! I always look forward to seeing what you are up to next.
I do love my power tools for long rip cuts and other heavy work, but then I like to shut them off and settle in to the joinery and details in peace.
Do not be taken in by this guy. would you cut a sheet of ply on a dimension saw without first checking that the riving blade was set correctly and that a test piece went through without raising chips along the edge on both sides. Then you would not use a rebate or plough plane without a riving knife built into it.
Putting a try square over a plane is usually a waste of time, close is all that is required for a shooting board as the blade can be adjusted by up to one degree to account for wear on the plane and wear on the shooting board.
Flatting the sole of a plane dose nothing if you put a plane on fine sand paper and the leading edge, trailing edge and around the mouth shine then it is good to go, the sole between is just holding those three lines of contact together and dose not have to contact the work piece.
I would suggest typing"Paul Sellers" into You Tube.
Sidney Easton This is basic woodworking, dude. Chill out.
@@sidneyeaston6927 Looks like you're the smartest guy in the room. What 's the name of your website or RUclips channel?
Love the way he declares the mistakes and corrections made along the way.
Keeping it 100%🖐👌😉
I do my best.
It’s nice seeing you include the mistakes. I know too many people starting out that watch videos like these see it go perfectly and then get frustrated when mistakes happen because they don’t think it happens to the pros.
also perfect tutorials do not teach the inventive thinking that joinery often requires..... shit happens.... heres how to deal with it until you can learn how to think yourself out of a corner.
Learned alot from the mistakes and how you corrected them.
I've learned more "in the field" from pro's who screwed something up (or had an underling like me help screw it up) and had to think how to fix it, than all the "perfect shop atmosphere examples" where everything was done right the first time.
Shop classes are good for everyone, and all... but a lot of false hopes turn into epic personal disappointments when no examples of faults, flaws, and fixing are ever shown.
Thinking on one's feet to figure it out and fix it is what separates a master craftsman from a frustrated quitter. ;o)
Yes I agree. Knowing the most common mistakes is very useful. And how to get through them.
This is seriously the best channel on RUclips. This is life-changing stuff. I love the way Rex unplugs woodworking and gets folks using, like, tools. He needs a TV contract. Like, now. Either a show of his own, or at least a regular segment on another show. One of those PBS home-improvement shows, for example. C'mon, TV. Do something right for once.
PS: My grandfather had one of those plough-planes. He had all that old stuff. I didn't know what they did, but I'm learning from Rex now.
You're very welcome! I don't think I even want to do TV. I think RUclips is better and more fun.
@@RexKrueger Plus we can watch you where and when we want. And as many times.
For keeping epoxy out of nut threads, coat a bolt in vaseline and put it in the nut while you apply glue and place it in location. Particularly useful for those of us who like to go overboard with epoxy.
That's a solid tip!
Rex, I've been watching some other woodworking channels on YT and had come to believe that I was soon going to need to upgrade my simple tablesaw to something fancier that could handle dado blades. These last few videos in this playlist about making hand tools to cut dados and rabets has got me feeling like maybe I can achieve these types of cuts without having to buy a whole new expensive power tool. Thank you for making all these videos
I think I've said this before but it bears repeating. I LOVE seeing videos like this which show "here's what I messed up and here's how I fixed that". I strongly believe that this is vital to encouraging new woodworkers by setting their expectations.
I appreciate that you didnt cut out the mistakes and show that you can usually work with them.
Most mistakes are fixable...if you don't smash the project in frustration.
Just built my brand new groove plane today!
I still remember those good times while I was in college and watch your video drinking beer. Now I work in a woodshop as a shop instructor, and I've made a couple of tools out of your videos, let's see... the spoke shave was the first one, then a rabbet plane(that kinda sucked), then the grooving plane. I even built 2 low work benches and a series of chairs and stools learned from your channel. Time flies!
Files with “safe sides” (aka “safe edges”) are under-appreciated. I lived most of my life without even knowing what a “safe side” was. But now I keep seeing more uses for one.
Seen Clickspring grinding one side of a file in order to make a safe edge? I was amazed at somebody doing that to a tool, but it makes all the sense!
@@rojirrim7298 Can't count how many times someone has sneered down his nose at me, walking out of the store with a brand new file (cheap as possible) to proceed to grind off and polish a face... (coarse grinding compound at the auto-parts shop... usually finishes... right after a steel wire wheel deburs)
It's okay... when they have a very controlled groove to make, and can't help gouging out the wrong directions, maybe they'll realize what the hell I was thinking "ruining a brand new tool"... (lolz)
Works on rasps, too. ;o)
I make sandpapper tools with the naked side or use a paint stick. I'll have to look for that type of file.
@@buzzgallagher Sandpaper tools and EMORY CLOTH (cap's for importance)... are great for some uses... USUALLY, for "odd shapes"... Take a file, and "tap" it with a grinder on the "offensive" side. Then debur it with a steel wire wheel (you can mount it on a drill... cheap) and whether or not you "finish" it with a grinding compound or some polish is up to you... Sometimes I do, and sometimes not.
I have to say this has been the best series I have watched. You show how to make tools in a very understandable way and take pains to make the projects as low cost as is possible. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this series.
My pleasure.
These home made specialty planes are awesome! Man, I’ve learned a lot about woodworking just in the last few weeks since I found this channel. I’ve worked with metal forever and my wife has always been coaxing me to start wood working because it was so popular in her family and is familiar and sort of comforting to her. I have wanted to start too but I’ve always told her I don’t really know where to start and can’t afford to invest a ton of money in being fully equipped for what would now be the fourth trade I’ve fully tooled myself out for haha. Enter this channel. Since the pandemic started, I became 100x the woodworker and it’s very largely due to this channel. Thanks for all the effort you put into this, it’s almost like a clear and simple roadmap for lost people to navigate the craft starting out and nobody else is doing that. There are so many instructional videos out there that would be great for learning.... assuming one has a COMPLETELY tooled out professional woodwork shop.. which just isn’t normal people like me.
Hey, WELCOME! I'm really glad you're here.
Rex, I find it much easier to start a groove using the wood body planes by starting at the end of the cut rather than the beginning. Then slowly lengthening the stroke.
For sure, that's the way.
Rex, I have a video suggestion.
At this point, you have reviewed several tools for WWFH, build several custom planes, the bench, the vise, bench hook, etc. Maybe just a quick summary for everyone, to kind of take stock as to where we are at, what the overall kit and gear looks like, what our current abilities might be that we aren't imagining, and lay out what the future might look like?
Just kind of a "we started here, here is where we are at, and here is where we are going." ?
That's a VERY good idea.
Also an update on the reviews. In your tool reviews you say I see this wearing or this maybe a problem in the future. Would be nice to back over these tools and see how they are holding up.
Did this ever happen? Maybe time to happen again? Links to the actual full videos would be great too
Tip on using rabbet planes without a fence, use your fingertips as the fence, tumb over the top of the plane and fingers down the outside.
I really appreciate your can-do and economical attitude.
Awesome tool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the knowledge on how to build one of these tools , Rex !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
May sound crazy brother, but this still has been the most valuable video I’ve had of yours. I own a No° 45 and actually now finally have a plough plane on order (3 months to go 🤪). The °45 just isn’t nearly as easy to use and consistent as using my Kruger grooving plane. I benefit from all you content in some way, but the gooving plane was just what I needed, right when I needed it. This video came back up in the algorithm today and so I thought I’d drop a line.
You sir are going to be the very first RUclipsr I've donated/purchased from. I love your channel and how you film and explain the projects! I'm heading to your website now. Keep up the great work.
To re-establish your edge at 3:25 you can turn your plane through 90 degrees and plane the other face of your rebate.
I don't use a lot of the content in a direct sense (actually making the tools) but it definitely helps me look at my projects from a different angle. Thank you for your work. The funny parts are amazing.
Hey Rex, I really enjoy your Videos. The Simplicity and a loooot of information! I am going to build some tools from your Videos. Thank you for all your effort! Love the salt trick and am going to try this out soon!
But maybe there is one thing, I can teach you 🤓,
I hope i can explain you this, english is not my native language. When you sand or file corners, you are following the corner. Actually you have to do the oposite movement with your hand. You dont follow the corner but you move your hand up when your file or sanding block reaches the end end. You start with the tip of the sanding block on the corner/wood and end with the tip/the end of your Block on the wooden piece. This makes the corners really round. It does not sound logical but thats how i have learned this from a teacher long time ago 🤪
Love Your Videos, especially the simplicity 👌 Thank You
Yeh looks like Im going to be donating to the Rex Krueger Pizza Fund as well. Ive been watching stuff on ebay and to get hold of a Stanley No 71 router, Stanley No 78 Rebate plane and a Record 044 Plough Plane is around 350 - 400 clams Australian. Money that could go to my pizza fund well at least back into our Tree Nursery business. So, for 20 clams Australian Ill get Rex's plans and with some blood sweat and swearing Ill start to build my tool collection. Thanks Rex your a Good Bloke!!! (That's a compliment down under)
I decided to add a fence to the bottom of the grooving plane for width adjustment, cuz sometimes it can be really hard clamping a batten to a very narrow workpiece. Also I didn't make it fully braced but left the plane iron(chisel) half exposed, that way it's super handy for chips to exit. Now it takes spiral shavings that look like spring.
Aloha Rex,
Good plow plane build and you didn't need to hitch up the mule team, either!
I add to start the cut of the grove, begin the cut from the far end, taking your first shaves there and work your way back, making these cut longer and longer as you progress. It makes your guiding the plane easier and shaves better than trying to establish the width of the cut at the same time as the length. The cutter decides the width where ever it is placed, the depth stops control the final cutter's bite, but if you remove some of the strain of both by the final end being cut already, you are no longer sliding into uncut territory but that of a finished cut field, less chance of a miscut or cut gone arye. On your router plane, nice but cuts seem too deep and chisel shows it by flexing from the cuts you were making. Better to make lighter cuts and have finer shaves than hacking it out. Slips happen and lighter cuts save cuts in our hands.
You're totally right.
I think I learn more about woodworking here than I ever did from norm Abrams.
High praise!
@@RexKrueger well all norm taught us about was how you need to buy 13.8 million dollars worth of high end specialty equipment... and then you can make anything!
And no bisquits!
I learned that Norm must have been getting kickbacks on Radial Arm Saw sales- but I loved watching him when I was young
Just don’t forget these, safety glasses....
You are a True Wizard!
Hi Rex. You and Paul Sellers have become compulsory viewing for me this long summer and autumn of lockdown. Thanks so much for the sense of humour, bootstrap and cheapo innovation and for inspiring me to do stuff in my shed for fun as well as just maintenance. Just bought your plane bundle and will probably do the same for Paul if he has a similar one. AM looking forward to repurposing some old chisels I bought 15 years ago from a local second hand market ( here in the UK one does not go to a flea market unless one is a dog) and have just refined and sharpened. Keep it up, Rex and enjoy Thanksgiving week
Hey man, I purchased your bundle, not even because its a great deal (i am going to build some if not all of them) but because these are all great videos and i feel like i wanted to give a little back for all of your hard work!
Very nice, Rex. I'd have used a temporary fence for that very first rebate in the plane itself too, though I don't suppose the angle matters as much since you can just plane the sole later.
For little pieces like those depth stops, I've found it really helps to laminate two pieces together with the grain crossed at 90°. It increases the strength immensely & will do away with any risk of the wood splitting along the grain when you apply pressure to those slots.
All good tips!
I'm getting bundle Rex, thank you for what you do. From a humble leatherworker looking to branch out
Brilliant! This is an area of woodworking I didn’t know existed. (Greetings form Ireland)
9:17 "I'm a professional!" has me rolling!
Excellent idea, thoroughly explained and very well presented, thank you!
Love your videos, and proud you are trying to help people learn grow and expand their abilities. Good job and keep it up.
I appreciate that!
You could put a simple fence on that plane by drilling two holes through the plane then gluing 1/2 or 3/4 nuts into the holes. Then put the fence on the bolts (the fence should slide easily on the bolts but not wobble) and tread them into the nuts that are glued into the plane. Finally add wing nuts to the side opposite the fence to lock it in place. The fence is adjusted by screwing the bolts in or out and then is pushed against them when you plane the wood.
Yup. You could totally do that.
Thanks Rex.Really enjoyed that.
Another,lazier(!) way to make the tool is by glueing 4 blocks together.As long as you have some stock for the central part which is exactly the same width as the chisel;then u can just cut an angle on each central piece to form the space for the chisel and wedge then glue on the 2 sides afterwards.
Any fine tuning is done to the wedge after glue-up.
Nice Build Rex👍
I love these videos with the homemade tools!
Keep up the great work on these Rex!
Great job Rex!!
Rex, brilliant video! Watch Mr. Paul Sellers video on making a " poor man's rebate plane" I recommend it!
Cool project!
Another excellent video Rex, thumbs up and all that. I particularly like how you inset the depth guides. My hand made groove plane I bolted them on the side, one board, two thumb nuts. I like your version much better and will be editing mine very soon. I have to say, every time I watch something you make, I get inspired and head out to the shop. 👍
That's the most I could ask for!
ive been trying to find out more about wood working becuse i need to make a display case for video games and the only thing i dont have to make it is a tool to make the grooves to make the channels for the glass and the channels that the shelf is it sit on. im being told im doing to much work for a display case for my store and i should just use L brackets and screws for my small 2 1/2 foot x 2 foot x 3 inch project
FOR SALE: tons of power tools, all sizes, brands, colors, working, not working, come and get'em! Bench-top models, floor models - if it's got a cord or a battery, it's for sale!
See what you're making me do Rex? Do you SEE??? ;-)
To be fair, I have all the electrtical toys and no plans to sell them.
I'll buy a bench grinder from you :-). Evil I know.
Jointer? Where are you?
Got a 2x72 wasting space?
the power tools just make the work go faster. and it isn't cheating if you already have them!
I refuse to give up my spindle sander and table saw!
Rex:
I have used a piece of scrap wood clamped to my work piece and ran my plane side against the wall against the scrap wood to insure I stayed straight. I also used a knife to nick the side to prevent the plane from being pushed over on successive cuts.
Missed ya live today, Rex. But it looked good at 1600 when I got home from work.
...really a groovy build mate!
It's that brown hardwood wood I've heard so much about
You could take a look at some commercial shoulder plane (I like the veritas one) for some inspiration on ergonomics. If you have a chance to have one in your hands I'd definitively reccomend you do so
Instead of gluing a nut into the body and using "wing screws" (not found at my local big box store), could one glue in a hex bolt and screw on wingnuts or star knobs?
Absolutely!
You might consider making a video that is similar to this, using one tooth from an old carbide saw. It would make thin grooves for perhaps the bottoms and backs of a home-made drawer. I can see making three widths of this tool for general purposes.
Antique brass doorknobs would make excellent handles for your planes. They come with a threaded bolt on the end that would be really easy to attach to the end of the plane without messing with the measurements and give your planes a comfortable pushing or control surface, and a unique look. I don't recommend those old crystal doorknobs though.. glass on a tool sounds like a bad idea...
Hey Rex, thanks from Germany for your inspiring videos!! I made your router plane and I wonder if I could just use that in combination with a clamped down board to make it work like this plow plane?
Thank you Rex for sharing this video.
I was wondering if it possible to make a Tongue plane as well.
About the only change I'd recommend would be to replace the hex nuts with t-nuts. They are made for exactly this purpose.
Thanks man your videos are great.
"baton" is French for stick of wood.
As in Baton Rouge or red stick.
Great videos!😁
I wish I'd known about that use of a bench hook before I put it right to the bone of the index finger on my left hand (I was holding it stupidly) requiring 9 stitches.
Thank you Sir 🎉
Great video series and bundle. Good job m8
great video thanks for sharing
Mans on form✌️😎🤘
Using chisels is great, but you should also go over how to make/harden your own blades out of scrap carbon steel (files, throwaway chisels, etc). As long as the cutting area is small enough to heat with a plumbers torch it's not that hard, and it opens up an entire world of customized tools.
I think Rex has a video showing how to harden the edging mower blades he tried using in a wood plane build.
ruclips.net/video/bRTnHNn08D8/видео.html
I feel like many people just don't want to get into all that even though it's not very hard.
@@RexKrueger Sad but probably true. Myself, I love setting things on fire :)
Just fyi. Harbor Freight, at least my local one at any rate, has a no.4 jack and mini plane set for about $15 that you might look at as an option for the WWFH tool kit.
I've looked at those and they seem a little TOO cheap, even for me!
Thanks, Rex! Great video with lots of information. Your mystery wood might be a variant of mahogany.
It looks like mahagony in the grain, but it's really orange and too dense. It's weird.
Im glad to see how you make things and it gives me good idears, but i have seen in my grandfathers shop, that he had some planes that have other shapes, like round curving out and curving in, for making Windows and so on, do you know how to make throws and make a video about it or do you know someone how build planes like that ?
super awesome
That's an interesting build.
I would pay a premium price in any bookstore for "Woodwork for Humans by Rex Krueger" that includes these plans and ideas. I've only recently found your channel Rex, and am eating up your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to make these.
Seriously how much I can’t begin to make one.
Not for sale, because you CAN make one. Really.
Roll that safety video. That eye or digit you save could be mine and the heck with the hatters.. BRING IT!!!
Rex rabbits live in fields rebates are use in woodworking hello from Wales UK
Please keep on with wrecking your brain to come up with stuff like this! Thanks for sharing!
Nice!
Could you please explain the difference between this plane and the rabbet plane? They seem to be almost identical?
I think I will try making the router plane and the rabbet plane, using the same chisel, but I also think I could use the same wedge (adapt the cutouts, instead of adapting the wedge).
Thanks for the nice videos and inspiration.
They are very similar, the difference is with a rabbet it’s on the edge of the board, this is set a little back from the edge. I have my dads Stanley and it can be set for both depending where you position the fence
I recently found a wooden dado plane at an estate sale. It's missing both blades and one of the wedges. Thanks to your videos I feel confident I can make another wedge and add a chisel for the main cutting blade. But what do I do for a nicker blade (besides buying a blank and cutting and tempering it)? Any suggestions?
What tool do you think can make a 'track like' groove in wood. Would like to make a wooden marble run for my son and appreciate your advice. Thanks.
Interesting and inspiring movie, thx :)
Rex, I really enjoy your videos and you're helping to aspire me to dabble in woodworking. Thank you. I'm re-watching this one already and I had a thought. Around 3:30 you're having trouble with the rabbet plane with the width of the cut and also the accuracy at the shoulder of the cut and I wanted to ask this:
Would it make sense to make a big knife wall or saw cut along the line and then run a couple of saw cuts to approximate depth down the length of the waste first and then whack the bulk of the waste out with a chisel and mallet? Then the Rabbet plane could clean up the cut functioning as a linear router and to provide the nice finish.
Just thinking out loud. I'm an IT Guy so take all of that with many grains of salt. Thanks again for your great content!
That would totally word AND it's a historically accurate way of doing things.
@@RexKrueger
Cool, thanks! I was really asking not to nitpick but to have that extra info in my back pocket for if/WHEN I run into some trouble like that on my own.
Keep up the good work!
Hi Rex, Could you make a matched set of tongue and grove planes in one of your videos. Thank you
groove
knife wall - I see you also enjoy Paul Sellers.
The oily rag in a can looks like a Paul Sellers suggestion too.
When you're getting deeper into the groove, don't the sides of the groove tend to lift up and chip out, since there's no cutting edge at that point?
Not terribly expensive refinement for the depth stops. T-nuts to hold the threaded wingnuts. It just makes the screw more reliable.
The nuts are a bit overkill, you could just drill the tapping size for the screw/bolt directly into the hardwood and it would hold fine.
Is there a way to make this to make half round grooves? Specifically 2 halves that form a long circular hollow (making flutes here!!)
Can I make grooves on plywood with this tool?
Nice.
The router plane looks like it could damage the walls of the cutout, is there a way to open up the front so the blade can be seen? Love the series and plan on making most of these once this rotator cuff is healed.....
There's really no danger. The walls are tough end grain.
Gotcha! Thanks for the quick reply!!!
bought it
the plane on amazon 12-404. its amazing
Love the style Rex but will it be beter or worse with a nob or handel in the front like the stanly
I think more of a handle on the back would be better. That would be my improvement.
How have I not found you before now 😫
I've a question, on the Shoulder/Rebate plane; being as how it's made in the laminated fashion how much harder would it be to cut the skew into the bed before laminating it to the backer board, and roughly what angle should that skew be cut to? Reason I ask is at the start of this video you said that the blade being straight made it harder to get a full cut because of the lack of a skew, and since I've not built mine yet I figure I can learn from listening and cut out the small inconveniences you find in the ones you have made.
I do so enjoy these build your own damn tool videos tons of fun. Sry I missed the premiere no clue what I was doing so no good excuse
I don't think making the body of the plane would be too much more difficult. The issue you would have is the iron. You would either have to custom make one or radically re-grind a chisel to make it work. I think part of Rex's thinking for making the bed square to the body was to keep the chisel usable as a standard chisel as well functioning as the plane iron.
You're both right. I'm trying to make things very easy, but I don't think that skew iron would be such a big deal. I'm not sure. I haven't done it yet.
@@RexKrueger I've a very old shoulder plane, one where you have to place the iron in the body from the sole and the angle on the iron tip is very small like maybe 5° or 10° so I tried to set my chisel down with a skew and keep the tip flat on the bench but it was without much success. Reason I'm wanting to build a new one is that the body of my shoulder plane is bent/twisted out of shape that restoring it is pointless. Thinking that I may just keep the iron and wedge and rebuild the body, but I'm going to go the lamination route because I dont trust my skills with the complicated mortise required to make an antique style shoulder.
If you have not made your plane yet a lot of the old ones have the mortice for the iron go from side to side and only the tang goes through the body of the plane. That should make it somewhat easier to cut the bed for the iron. The mouth on these old plane is also often bigger than ideal since you take out the iron that way.
Say, would it be possible to adjust the groove plane to take any size of chisel?
Unfortunately, no. I've given this a lot of thought and you'd have to build a separate plane for each size.
I'm also gonna become Amish soon with the jump in the price of power tools lately
Вы когда-нибудь видели столярные тисы и рубанок из благородного дерева (бук, груша) ? Стесьняюь даже спросить, а сколько они тогда стоят?
Жаль что не из канадского клёна, сосны или тополя, можно было бы сразу увидеть на влияние типа древесины на качество инструмента.
Возможно если сосновую доску протиреть гуталином, она тоже будет тёмненькой но всёже не красным деревом.
А стамеска могла бы и лучше резать, если угол будет 25-27* (для мягких пород древесины, а для дуба потребуется уже 29*
Диапазон заточки всего 5* (25-30*) а влияние на качество реза - огромное.
I gave up on regularly schedualed programs when i cut my cble TV.
Post the video.