Very good video, however, I believe that when you are compressing the brake caliper piston, that it is advised that you open the bleeder valve (and use a small hose to channel the excess brake fluid away). To do it the way as shown in your video, the viewer runs the risk of damaging the anti-lock brake sensors. It really is no more work since you don't have to siphon out any brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. I always use the bleeder valve.
Thanks, I just did the right wheel disc and pads. Even without rotating the wheel you should have enough space to work. I lost quite a lot of time because I couldn't remove the 16mm bolts. I've used 3/8" wrench and had to stick a pipe in it to make it longer. It worked well but, you need a 16mm socket at least 1/2" adapter and a wrench at least 35cm long to ensure enough torque. When tightening them down, with 110Nm, even a 50cm long torque wrench will fit in space to work with. The 7mm hex pins are easy to remove, a 3/8" socket wrench is enough. It is important to have the right tools. PS. I did the other disc. some things I 'd like to mention...as the bolts require a great force to remove, pay attention to the rotation direction as the bolts are on the other side :) The car must be rigorously suspended, I've placed the wheel underneath for extra safety. After replacing the pads the fluid level will be higher. Check the level and ensure it doesn't go over the maximum limit. The rotors need to align with a limit of 0.05mm maximum runout. At least do a visual check to see they spin with no wobble.
Perfect! Thx for the video man, I'm going to attempt to replace my front brakes and rotors tomorrow as they are currently squeaking with the brake sensor tripped. You made it 100% understandable on how to do.
ISTA specifically states not to grease guide screws or backs of break pads. Unfasten guide bolts (1) and lift out brake caliper towards rear of vehicle. Do not allow brake caliper to hang from brake hose, risk of damage to brake hose. Installation note: Clean guide screws. Do not grease. Check threads. Replace all guide screws which are not in perfect condition. Installation note: Tightening torque 34 11 3AZ. 30 -5NM Remove outer brake pad. Inner brake pad is located with its spring in the piston. Observe minimum thickness of brake pads. Installation note: Clean brake pads. Do not grease backs of brake pads sleeve. Break caliper bracket torque specs are 110NM
Thanks Brian. Complete and thorough. I have an 08 BMW Z4 3.0si and I recently did the front brakes for the first time. A couple of points you made which I wished I had known at the time. I mention them here just to highlight those steps. 1. The plastic caps covering the sliders are exactly that - Caps. At first I thought they were plastic covers and tried to remove the whole thing. Luckily the caps fell off before I destroyed it. You just remove the top part. 2. The electrical wear sensor clip - I had never dealt with this bit of BMW Engineering. I was of the understanding that if your brake warning light wasn't triggered, you could re-use the wire. Maybe if I had had more experience I could do that, but in retrospect I think for the cost of a new wire, you may as well replace it with a fresh one. Thanks again for your thorough video.
jafxdwg i'll start out by saying thank you so much for writing to me! I'm glad you're able to get value out of my videos. By doing those brakes yourself you definitely saved a couple hundred bucks. Thank you again for taking the time to write!
Very good video, however, I believe that when you are compressing the brake caliper piston, that it is advised that you open the bleeder valve (and use a small hose to channel the excess brake fluid away). To do it the way as shown in your video, the viewer runs the risk of damaging the anti-lock brake sensors. It really is no more work since you don't have to siphon out any brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. I always use the bleeder valve.
Thanks, I just did the right wheel disc and pads. Even without rotating the wheel you should have enough space to work. I lost quite a lot of time because I couldn't remove the 16mm bolts. I've used 3/8" wrench and had to stick a pipe in it to make it longer. It worked well but, you need a 16mm socket at least 1/2" adapter and a wrench at least 35cm long to ensure enough torque. When tightening them down, with 110Nm, even a 50cm long torque wrench will fit in space to work with.
The 7mm hex pins are easy to remove, a 3/8" socket wrench is enough.
It is important to have the right tools.
PS. I did the other disc. some things I 'd like to mention...as the bolts require a great force to remove, pay attention to the rotation direction as the bolts are on the other side :)
The car must be rigorously suspended, I've placed the wheel underneath for extra safety.
After replacing the pads the fluid level will be higher. Check the level and ensure it doesn't go over the maximum limit.
The rotors need to align with a limit of 0.05mm maximum runout. At least do a visual check to see they spin with no wobble.
FYI, BMW TIS manual states E85/E86 are 65Nm for the caliper mount bracket.
Perfect! Thx for the video man, I'm going to attempt to replace my front brakes and rotors tomorrow as they are currently squeaking with the brake sensor tripped. You made it 100% understandable on how to do.
Glad the video is helpful. Good luck with the repair tomorrow. Thank you for watching!
ISTA specifically states not to grease guide screws or backs of break pads.
Unfasten guide bolts (1) and lift out brake caliper towards rear of vehicle. Do not allow brake caliper to hang from brake hose, risk of damage to brake hose.
Installation note:
Clean guide screws. Do not grease.
Check threads.
Replace all guide screws which are not in perfect condition.
Installation note: Tightening torque 34 11 3AZ. 30 -5NM
Remove outer brake pad.
Inner brake pad is located with its spring in the piston.
Observe minimum thickness of brake pads.
Installation note:
Clean brake pads.
Do not grease backs of brake pads sleeve.
Break caliper bracket torque specs are 110NM
Thanks Brian. Complete and thorough. I have an 08 BMW Z4 3.0si and I recently did the front brakes for the first time. A couple of points you made which I wished I had known at the time. I mention them here just to highlight those steps.
1. The plastic caps covering the sliders are exactly that - Caps. At first I thought they were plastic covers and tried to remove the whole thing. Luckily the caps fell off before I destroyed it. You just remove the top part.
2. The electrical wear sensor clip - I had never dealt with this bit of BMW Engineering. I was of the understanding that if your brake warning light wasn't triggered, you could re-use the wire. Maybe if I had had more experience I could do that, but in retrospect I think for the cost of a new wire, you may as well replace it with a fresh one.
Thanks again for your thorough video.
jafxdwg i'll start out by saying thank you so much for writing to me! I'm glad you're able to get value out of my videos. By doing those brakes yourself you definitely saved a couple hundred bucks. Thank you again for taking the time to write!
Saved more money than that... a bmw dealership would charge upwards of 500 dollars just for labor!
Thanks Man! Will the dash light go out automatic with the new pads in place ????
Great video! Can I use your instructions for a 2009 z4 e89?
I’m pretty sure it’s the same process.
Brian, Excellent Video. Thank you.
A little bit different dinner Ford F-350:) Thank you for watching
Pretty much the same for the rears(?)