Question: Should I run the engine to heat everything (including the penetration oil) up prior to breaking the bolts free? Or keave everything at ambient temperature?
@@greasyboykustoms Thanks. Sounds good! Almost as good as my car will sound without the tick, tick, tick exhaust leak due to an old, cracked log manifold on the passenger side. 😁
I don't like them either !! The 390FE is rock solid. I have one and a C6 in my '66 T-Bird. Hey, the slots (instead of holes) in the originals enable you to not have to fully back out the bottom end bolts ti get the gasket out, right? And the extra slots on the new gaskets allow you to thread in all the bottom bolts, which supports the manifold, then slip in the gasket. Great design.
I'll be doing my right side exhaust manifold soon. I'm not going to be loosening anything but the 8 bolts to the manifold. On the car you're working on, were the bottom bolts easier to back out, as they usually have a little oil on them ?
Sorry, I also need to remove the two bolts on the outlet as my manifold is cracked, plus I'm replacing the exhaust bi-metallic butterfly valve thing with a straight through adaptor. I dont need that feature to help my 390FE warm up.
Ha, ha! those gaskets do suck! I mean they work fine if you retighten them evenly and pray to the automotive gods that they don't blow out. Got a blowout on my donut on the passenger side, all donuts suck.
FE = Fantastic and Exceptional, thick gaskets are a brilliant idea for minor leaks, and you sir are the best mechanical wizard I’ve met!
Ford rules
Oh man this was a great video! Now, how can i get my 66 T-bird to you? LOL
Bring it on over haha .
Me first !!!
I've got a 64 Tbird with the 390. I know I have an exhaust leak. I'm dreading fixing this! Where did you get the gaskets?
Do you have a part number for those.. just picked up a 64
Question: Should I run the engine to heat everything (including the penetration oil) up prior to breaking the bolts free? Or keave everything at ambient temperature?
Heat always helps, it allows the metal to expand and the Penetrating oil soaks in further . It will be smokey and stink but worth it
@@greasyboykustoms Thanks. Sounds good! Almost as good as my car will sound without the tick, tick, tick exhaust leak due to an old, cracked log manifold on the passenger side. 😁
I don't like them either !! The 390FE is rock solid. I have one and a C6 in my '66 T-Bird.
Hey, the slots (instead of holes) in the originals enable you to not have to fully back out the bottom end bolts ti get the gasket out, right?
And the extra slots on the new gaskets allow you to thread in all the bottom bolts, which supports the manifold, then slip in the gasket. Great design.
I'll be doing my right side exhaust manifold soon. I'm not going to be loosening anything but the 8 bolts to the manifold.
On the car you're working on, were the bottom bolts easier to back out, as they usually have a little oil on them ?
Sorry, I also need to remove the two bolts on the outlet as my manifold is cracked, plus I'm replacing the exhaust bi-metallic butterfly valve thing with a straight through adaptor. I dont need that feature to help my 390FE warm up.
Question: why did u remove the valve covers?
Was doing valve cover gaskets at the same time
@@greasyboykustoms oh, okay. Thanks. I may do the same.
Ha, ha! those gaskets do suck! I mean they work fine if you retighten them evenly and pray to the automotive gods that they don't blow out. Got a blowout on my donut on the passenger side, all donuts suck.