1974 Triumph TR6 - Part 9 - Body Repairs begin
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- I started working on the body and I am still getting surprised how rotten some areas are and how well preserved other areas are... It is just like different cars.. But anyway, we will do what's needed. I will try to work methodically on it without jumping too much from one place to another.
I admire your ability to see past all that miserable corrosion, those previous repairers were such amateurs
Well after restoring the 73 TR6 and helping Cheftuch on his 250 I have an idea what goes where :)
I love everything here really! Also the dialect ...
Just keeping up with the progress and enjoying the videos too.
hi elin i enjoyed that video thank and well done bob
Hey Elin, I enjoy your videos very much, been following you maybe 2 years now.. In regards to sandblasting, this TR6 makes much sense to not take that route since there are lots of welded patches and what not. But even with that said I personally prefer sandblasting over grinding. My sandblasting comment was in reference to the Spitfire which in my opinion made sense to go at that direction, but I get what you're saying... Keep up the great work!
Oh, my comment was not about yours on the GT6 bonnet. Someone suggested sandblasting on this body which would be a crazy idea at this stage.
master @ work , well done elin
Nice repair. If you can fix that body you can fix anything and it is fixed with Triumph metal. 👍
Dust to dust and Triumph to Triumph :) Well, that body is not that bad actually. I've seen worse. Ask Cheftush LOL
You are a Triumphs best friend
:)
Nice work mine has a lot of the corrision problems that yours does as well, espcially at the front. My flours were not quite as bad as yours
but I have replaced them and the sills; at least I have on one side. While I thinking about it I whould reccommend extending the drain pipe from the scuttle out through either the front wheel arch. This will prevent water and from building up on top of the sill should the drain holes become blocked, as they inevitablly will.
Yes, I was thinking of doing that on the 73 and I ended up not doing it, but I might do it here. However there are more water drains going between the fender and the kick panel. It is not only the scuttle. I will probably show that in one of the next videos
Nice! Now I’m late for work...
That is why I never watch your videos before work. I watch them during work LOL
All-in-all that body is better than David's 250, but there are certainly some issues. Don't you think you'll have to completely replace the floor pans? I'm sure you'll get it together better than it was just out of the factory. Thanks for the update! They're always appreciated.
Yes, Bruce, the floors will definitely be changed :) I played with the GT6 ones, because 70-80% of them were solid, but these ones are far gone. We have floors,inner and outer sills and more new parts that we bought long time ago so I will not waste too much time with parts that are available. Especially now that this car became a shop project!
I think Tush would have taken that body instead of the one on his TR250 but as you say its a bit strange as its a 'body of two halves'...
As much as you like making plates and welding I reckon you will be needing a complete floor pan assembly. Safer way to keep everything in line as well
Just a thought - to save damaging that lovely repaired chassis could you make up some timber spacers and set the body on those? Bolted through they would still retain the integrity you need and you can cover the chassis. Makes the body higher to work on as well... Its what we used to do on Elans ...
Yes, for sure I will use new floors. We have those along with inner and outer sills, kick panels, body mounts.... I probably won't use all of that, but it is good to have them.
I still have to spray the frame with truck bedliner and purposely I left that step for after I am done with the body, So I am not worried if I scratch it here and there. I can just touch it up later and finish it with the bedliner. There is no better support for the body than the frame that it will be living on. Even if there is something wrong with one or the other we just make them fit perfectly together while all panels match and gaps are perfect.
Elin--Really enjoy your videos! I've been through many of these repairs on my TR6, but I have a 69 GT6 that I haven't touched yet.
On the top flange where the front wings attach, there are small rectangular recesses for the speed nuts so the wing can seat flat. You can pretty easily make those recesses with a simple set of home-made dies and a pair of vice-grips.
See bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-49/SDC13184a.JPG
Thanks! I've been planning to do those with a pair of adjustable wrenches, but your idea is better! Thanks.
I've seen your website about your restoration! You put so much effort in documenting your work! It is really helpful! Thank you so much for that!
Click Like then watch :-)
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