You'll have to get one of those in-line telescoping gauges that go in the cutter bit hole. Curtis at cutting edge engineering has them for his line boring set up. Maybe they don't make them as big as you need, wouldn't be hard to make though for someone with your skill
It's great to see the HBM beast pulling its weight and doing the kind of job it was designed for. If that machine was a person, I bet it would be feeling mighty proud of itself right now. 🙂
Thanks Brian Hope the other side of Ohio gets cleaned up after the train wrecks. That state has had a tough history of trashing its waterways. I live in part of SC where you can only catch and eat 1 large (few #'s) fish per month because of the PCB's in the 60-70's, still today 50 or more years later.
Very nice work Brian. This is a complicated and difficult setup. I think your boring bar was a success. I made a line boring bar out of 2.0 D2 bar stock, 3 foot long and the boring bar bushings out of mild steel cold roll. Finished the ID on the rod hone. Drill oil hole in the bore bushings and used key seat cutter on the inside to cut and key seat that intersected the oil hole for oil distribution. I had the same problem trying to seize up till I did the oil modification. Figured out the clearance. Works perfectly now. I use way oil and or Racing oil with Zink. Nice work again Brian. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
Love watching you with the odd shape and setups and still get solid cuts. Would trade my left nut to go back in time to see this old equipment in its prime in shops and on production lines doing what it does best.
Good job Brian. Thats a big piece for sure and looked like a big job. I bet your one of a few home shops that has equipment big enough to do that type work!
Hello from Aus. I recently watched a video where a shaper/planer gauge was used to set the tool extension out of the bar. The gauge was first set with a depth mic. BC
It could be done that way but I don't have a planer gauge and I always prefer direct reading measurements as opposed to transferring them. The more times you transfer the greater the risk of getting errors and not ending up with what you wanted.
The boring bars for our g&Lare hardened and the 6" fits right in the outboard support. All the smaller ones have a cast iron bushing to bush the outboard support down to the bar size. THe cast iron bushing has a bolt in the flange to bolt it to the outboard bearing to keep it from coming out. The outboard support has timken tapered bearings in it. We had a large forging that we had to bore out 6,000 lbs of chips with the 6" bar.
Also we have some mics at work that look like od mikes but they are for measuring a bore around the bar so you can measure while the bar is still in there. On smaller bores we just measure with small id mics. We put them through one of holes for the tools. Our bars have a square hole and also a rectangular hole every so often.
Awesome new tool you made! Should open up to jobs you couldn’t do before! Bar looks real stout. Gonna be great when you add those changes you mentioned!
Hi Brian. Congratulations on first class work on this huge component. I imagine not many, or any, shops in your area have the expertise and capability you do. so impressive. I have noted micrometers that insert into the cutting hole in line boring bars. Maybe something you could use? warm regards vic
I made the mistake of using 4140 prehard to make a boring bar out of. It galled up so bad in the bearing I had to cut the bar off and press it out of the bearing. I only use 1045 chrome plated rod stock now, it never gives me any trouble.
@@warrenjones744 isn't that crazy!? I always thought ball bearing material would be so hard the two wouldn't get in a fight, after I had trouble I started researching bearing material and found out they are much softer than I had thought.
Hi Brian, your comment about difficulty getting the bore diameter measurement with the bar in place, take a look as cutting edge Engineering on RUclips Kurtis does a lot of this type of work and he takes the cutter out and replaces it with a telescope gauge, this can then be measured with a standard outside micrometer, hope this helps.
It's not perfect yet, but it got this job done. On that PVC reverse countersink we were talking about, it occurred to me that a modified jewelers screwdriver might be just the thing. It's got a very small diameter but it is also very stiff. I think I can bend and flatten and file the end to the 'half Y' shape you mentioned. I may have to anneal it, work it then harden it again, but I'll try it first without. I'll let you know how it came out.
I'm always impressed seeing your machines do work - that part alone is bigger and heavier than my actual entire lathe (a little Boxford 'school' lathe) :)
hi brian i,ve watching you now for the last 8 years,you should have at least 100k subs by now your content is well worthy of more than 30k subs you should suggest more of your viewers give you a sub.all the best from ireland brian love your content.
Looks like the new boring bar did a great job Brian. you might think about putting a bronze bushing in the tail stock bearing so it will not grab the shaft.Thanks
The big bushing I made runs in oil in the tailstock so that is where I want the rotation to occur. Tying it together with a key seems the best solution.
@@bcbloc02 that sounds pretty good, I have taken to copying the squeeze lock type bearings that my climax line boring rig uses, I can snug them up to create enough friction to force them to spin and at the same time remove any play that develops over time.
I thought maybe that end bearing would be bronze Brian, no? Tool heads that clamp on bar might be useful for larger bores if you devise a way such as a key way to keep them from spinning on bar under load. Anyway Good stuff man. Keep 'em coming
@@ShainAndrews an example. When Deere introduced the 8000 and 9000 series back in the day they bragged about how it cost 30% less to make than the previous model. So then they decided to charge us 20% more for it. Transmissions are made by Funk. They no longer hob a gear for their tractors. They rely on other companies for quality. We went Caterpillar and will never go back.
That's pretty awesome!
Upgrade #2 after the bearing fix should be a hole in the bar for a telescoping gauge.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
I’m sure they are happy to have a man like you in the area to get stuff done
You'll have to get one of those in-line telescoping gauges that go in the cutter bit hole. Curtis at cutting edge engineering has them for his line boring set up. Maybe they don't make them as big as you need, wouldn't be hard to make though for someone with your skill
Don't worry about the light in the way. It is the sound of those chips that I enjoy. Nice work on the bar.
Very well done sir.
It's great to see the HBM beast pulling its weight and doing the kind of job it was designed for. If that machine was a person, I bet it would be feeling mighty proud of itself right now. 🙂
Or it would more likely say I am 80 years old why am i still doing this! LOL
Thanks Brian
Hope the other side of Ohio gets cleaned up after the train wrecks. That state has had a tough history of trashing its waterways.
I live in part of SC where you can only catch and eat 1 large (few #'s) fish per month because of the PCB's in the 60-70's, still today 50 or more years later.
Very nice work Brian.
This is a complicated and difficult setup.
I think your boring bar was a success.
I made a line boring bar out of 2.0 D2 bar stock, 3 foot long and the boring bar bushings out of mild steel cold roll.
Finished the ID on the rod hone.
Drill oil hole in the bore bushings and used key seat cutter on the inside to cut and key seat that intersected the oil hole for oil distribution.
I had the same problem trying to seize up till I did the oil modification.
Figured out the clearance.
Works perfectly now.
I use way oil and or Racing oil with Zink.
Nice work again Brian.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Big parts take big machines. Thanks for sharing.
Master solving job with equipment at hand! Machinist!!!!! 👍👍
Great addition to the shop Brian, nice job as per usual 👏.
Thanks for sharing.
Love watching you with the odd shape and setups and still get solid cuts. Would trade my left nut to go back in time to see this old equipment in its prime in shops and on production lines doing what it does best.
Not me!!
Nice big project. That took some setup time.😊😊😊😊😊
Nice job, Brian. You never fail to amaze!
That's what you got that thing for. Good deal! Blessings!
Looked real good.
Awesome job really liked watching this type of work
good job brian
impressive work, dang that is one huge workpiece. Video did make my look up "gudgeon" which was pretty interesting too.
Way above my skill level, but love watching ole Brian tackle these big jobs. Thx again for sharing Brian. Bear
I enjoyed watching this with my morning cup of coffee.
You could seriously use a Boring bar Snap gauge makes it so much easier and accurate .
Good job Brian. Thats a big piece for sure and looked like a big job. I bet your one of a few home shops that has equipment big enough to do that type work!
I would be surprised if there is even 100 home shops in the world with my scale of equipment.
Good Morning Brian....always good to see you....best wishes from Orlando, FL...Paul
Having to deal with those heavy parts and all the set up, I think it turned out great
Nice content Brian. Great to se the HBM in use.
Brian, you are the man!
Hello from Aus. I recently watched a video where a shaper/planer gauge was used to set the tool extension out of the bar. The gauge was first set with a depth mic. BC
It could be done that way but I don't have a planer gauge and I always prefer direct reading measurements as opposed to transferring them. The more times you transfer the greater the risk of getting errors and not ending up with what you wanted.
👍👍 mornin man... looks like u got another challenge done up...right on ..have a good weekend feller👊
Always machining the big stuff right. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
The boring bars for our g&Lare hardened and the 6" fits right in the outboard support. All the smaller ones have a cast iron bushing to bush the outboard support down to the bar size. THe cast iron bushing has a bolt in the flange to bolt it to the outboard bearing to keep it from coming out. The outboard support has timken tapered bearings in it. We had a large forging that we had to bore out 6,000 lbs of chips with the 6" bar.
Boring 6000lbs of chips sounds like a couple of day project. I love jobs where you need a skid steer to keep the chips packed away. 😎
@@bcbloc02 We had to shovel them into the dumpster and haul them away with the forklift
Also we have some mics at work that look like od mikes but they are for measuring a bore around the bar so you can measure while the bar is still in there. On smaller bores we just measure with small id mics. We put them through one of holes for the tools. Our bars have a square hole and also a rectangular hole every so often.
keep up the good work. we have a 4" bar cat 50 for are boring mill but like you said they don't get used much.
I need to build a 4" one too.
Awesome new tool you made! Should open up to jobs you couldn’t do before! Bar looks real stout. Gonna be great when you add those changes you mentioned!
Another top job mate :-) you keep showing us kids how it’s done each and every time thank you!
Hi Brian. Congratulations on first class work on this huge component. I imagine not many, or any, shops in your area have the expertise and capability you do. so impressive. I have noted micrometers that insert into the cutting hole in line boring bars. Maybe something you could use? warm regards vic
I made the mistake of using 4140 prehard to make a boring bar out of. It galled up so bad in the bearing I had to cut the bar off and press it out of the bearing. I only use 1045 chrome plated rod stock now, it never gives me any trouble.
Same here, regular TGP would gall in my support bearings and cause no end of aggravation.
Now y’all tell me!! Lol my bar is mystery metal but being it was drawbar material it probably was high carbon.
@@warrenjones744 isn't that crazy!? I always thought ball bearing material would be so hard the two wouldn't get in a fight, after I had trouble I started researching bearing material and found out they are much softer than I had thought.
Enjoyed….nice work!
Nice work. I can't wait to get my hbm in the shop.
Be warned they take over!!
Seriously beefy.
Great job!
Hi Brian, your comment about difficulty getting the bore diameter measurement with the bar in place, take a look as cutting edge Engineering on RUclips Kurtis does a lot of this type of work and he takes the cutter out and replaces it with a telescope gauge, this can then be measured with a standard outside micrometer, hope this helps.
Great work. I wish I had a tailstock. Might have to make one. -----Doozer
Don't know what your rates are but I hope you got top dollar for this one. You earned it...
Good looking setup. Thanks for sharing Brian
It's not perfect yet, but it got this job done.
On that PVC reverse countersink we were talking about, it occurred to me that a modified jewelers screwdriver might be just the thing. It's got a very small diameter but it is also very stiff. I think I can bend and flatten and file the end to the 'half Y' shape you mentioned. I may have to anneal it, work it then harden it again, but I'll try it first without. I'll let you know how it came out.
I'm always impressed seeing your machines do work - that part alone is bigger and heavier than my actual entire lathe (a little Boxford 'school' lathe) :)
Happy after Paddy's Day🥴🍀🍀
Way over my pay grade 🤔 the equipment you have 🤯. Mind blown
cool stuff. thanks
UK watching Brian...nice job that man. Big ole job. Did you watch my Spaniel on a days pigeon shooting
hi brian i,ve watching you now for the last 8 years,you should have at least 100k subs by now your content is well worthy of more than 30k subs you should suggest more of your viewers give you a sub.all the best from ireland brian love your content.
Looks like the new boring bar did a great job Brian. you might think about putting a bronze bushing in the tail stock bearing so it will not grab the shaft.Thanks
The big bushing I made runs in oil in the tailstock so that is where I want the rotation to occur. Tying it together with a key seems the best solution.
the key also makes it easier if you need to put/drive a bobbin on the bar for larger bores or faces so the tool has more support
@@bcbloc02 that sounds pretty good, I have taken to copying the squeeze lock type bearings that my climax line boring rig uses, I can snug them up to create enough friction to force them to spin and at the same time remove any play that develops over time.
I thought maybe that end bearing would be bronze Brian, no? Tool heads that clamp on bar might be useful for larger bores if you devise a way such as a key way to keep them from spinning on bar under load. Anyway Good stuff man. Keep 'em coming
👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🍺 good as it gets! Stay Safe! Going to need your skills when it all goes bad!
Hiya Brian
Do you have a bore mic to fit through the holes in the boring bar to measure?
Joe
What hole?
Go to 1:37 and listen. Most bars have a series of holes.
Watch some videos of line boring and most of them have a micrometer that does this.
Joe
You can Climax and a couple other companies make telescoping gauges that fit through tool slots and are locked with set screws
I enjoyed that.
Nice job. Do you ever use liquid nitrogen to shrink bearing cases into the housing?
No it is not readily available in my area and it won’t keep for a long time so it would be a big expense for me.
So John Deere did not do what should have been done in the first place? Cheeped out once again? Color me surprised.
🤣👍👍
How did you reach that conclusion?
@@ShainAndrews Are you blind?
First thing you have to do is take off the Greene underwear and stop using the green toilet paper.
@@ShainAndrews an example. When Deere introduced the 8000 and 9000 series back in the day they bragged about how it cost 30% less to make than the previous model.
So then they decided to charge us 20% more for it. Transmissions are made by Funk. They no longer hob a gear for their tractors. They rely on other companies for quality. We went Caterpillar and will never go back.
👍👍😎👍👍
👍👍👍👍⚙️🛠
Lol I was just thing that light has a great view then you put the text up lol
we could have accepted the light location, it was just the focus thing!
Brian this is a boring video. (:-)
Actually always good content
That worked out good.
Really nice having the proper tools with the proper knowhow behind them. Great repair work! Enjoyed watching, thanks.