Thanks for the video. I admit, I did not watch the entire video, I skipped to where you discussed rotating the engine to TDC and then removing the spring. I just used this info on two 3800 cars. Really appreciate it, worked PERFECTLY.
I just did this teardown today had 2 seals slide up the valve and was burning oil.. i found it easier to put compressed air into the cylinder using my air tank to keep the valves up
Very good video 👌 would have liked to see the rear ones done also I'm about to change mine in my 04 comp g gtp I hope its them sense the car has a puff of blue smoke on acceleration from stop.
I need help I have a 3800 series 2 1997 Grand Prix gtp can I follow the same method to do the rear head ? I’m not sure if I can turn the crank to tdc or should I shove some rope inside the spark plug ?
Wow. Great video. I'm trying to track down a Misfire on #3. Ive checked coils, new wires, new plugs. Smoke tested for vacuum leaks, block tested with the special fluid that detecs exhaust gases in coolant, injectors all tick at same rate when I use a stethoscope on them. I haven't fuel pressure tested or compression checked yet. Those are next and if all is OK I am going to take my valve cover off and see if maybe there is a broken spring.
great video. The rears will be a pain. There is a bullitin saying the rear valve seals are likely responsible for excessive consumption oil leaks on the 3800
I bought it from an auto store many years ago. Personally I don't care for this style, even though it worked. It puts a lot of tension on narrow points of the spring which could put a nick in them if used improperly.
@@in-depthdiy2123 Thanks for the reply. I assume the springs steel is 5 times harder than the tools. I'm more concerned the spring will tear the tool apart.
I just did one side and I was frkng praying dude! 😂😂😂😂😂 I though I had my cylinder at TDC after removing the spring and I gently with the grip of a mantis lowered the valve to insure contact with the piston.... It did not touch the piston 😂😂😂😂 I freaked out lol but! I chilled and water turning the engine until it finally touched ! And the a proceeded
Once at top dead center or close enough it better to tell if you take spark plug out you can even shove some nylon robe in there it make sure it doesn't fall much at all.
These engines are fixed dimensioned systems. Tightening the rocker arm hold down bolt does not change the geometry or lash/gap between the rocker and the push rod, or valve stem. To adjust the lash between the rocker and valve stem you would need to change the length of the push rod (by measuring with an adjustable push rod and ordering new rods).
Um... those bolts are "torque to yield" and should NOT be re-used. 11ft. lbs. then 90deg using an angle gauge. Here's what I found. zzperformance.com/collections/3800/Bolts#productOutput Highly recommend 'valve-stem seal puller pliers' You'll be -very glad- you got em'. Magnetize small screwdriver to retrieve & install stem-locks so you don't cry. I use rope, spray WD-40 on it stuffed into cylinder to *positively hold valves up* rotating crank to push piston into it. (an old backyard 'shade tree' mechanic trick) Thanks for making us a video, much appreciated.
@Andrew Dean If it was my vehicle, I'd start with the cheaper and easier option of replacing the stem seals. If it works, you're good to go. If it doesn't, you're out a little money and time compared to full on replacing the heads. This is assuming you're only burning oil and there's not a crack or broken valve in the head.
Here I am, my sister burned 2 quarts in 50 miles and now we have to figure it out, and you're whining about a quart an oil change. Oh my god. I mean, I appreciate the video, but you can /live/ with a quart per oil change.
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Thanks for the video. I admit, I did not watch the entire video, I skipped to where you discussed rotating the engine to TDC and then removing the spring. I just used this info on two 3800 cars. Really appreciate it, worked PERFECTLY.
Thanks your video helped answer the questions my Manuel did not before I replace my valve cover on my supercharged 3.8l
I just did this teardown today had 2 seals slide up the valve and was burning oil.. i found it easier to put compressed air into the cylinder using my air tank to keep the valves up
Very good video 👌 would have liked to see the rear ones done also I'm about to change mine in my 04 comp g gtp I hope its them sense the car has a puff of blue smoke on acceleration from stop.
How did he rotate the engine? I understand getting the valves TDC but how do you rotate?
I need help I have a 3800 series 2 1997 Grand Prix gtp can I follow the same method to do the rear head ? I’m not sure if I can turn the crank to tdc or should I shove some rope inside the spark plug ?
Very helpful was lost with the valves done v8s and have to rotate and do by fireing order THANK YOU
Learned alot thanks
Wow. Great video. I'm trying to track down a Misfire on #3. Ive checked coils, new wires, new plugs. Smoke tested for vacuum leaks, block tested with the special fluid that detecs exhaust gases in coolant, injectors all tick at same rate when I use a stethoscope on them. I haven't fuel pressure tested or compression checked yet. Those are next and if all is OK I am going to take my valve cover off and see if maybe there is a broken spring.
I was chasing down this same issue, ending up being a snapped valve spring
Same issue I've got at the moment along with q cracked resonator. What did you figure out since then?
@@brandonsimpson3101 I did a leakdown test and it was a bad exhaust valve
How much would a shop charge to do this on a 1989 LeSabre (almost the same as this car)?
Thank you
great video. The rears will be a pain. There is a bullitin saying the rear valve seals are likely responsible for excessive consumption oil leaks on the 3800
Would you share where you bought the spring compression tool? Amazon has many and most are garbage..
I bought it from an auto store many years ago. Personally I don't care for this style, even though it worked. It puts a lot of tension on narrow points of the spring which could put a nick in them if used improperly.
@@in-depthdiy2123 Thanks for the reply. I assume the springs steel is 5 times harder than the tools. I'm more concerned the spring will tear the tool apart.
Thanks man I'll sub to that
Did this fix your problem of the oil burning issue?
Been thinking about doing this to my 3.8. Did it work?
It's only been 1 oil change so far, it seems to have slowed it down, but did not completely fix it.
I just did one side and I was frkng praying dude! 😂😂😂😂😂 I though I had my cylinder at TDC after removing the spring and I gently with the grip of a mantis lowered the valve to insure contact with the piston.... It did not touch the piston 😂😂😂😂 I freaked out lol but! I chilled and water turning the engine until it finally touched ! And the a proceeded
I just saw what I did wrong lol
Does this cause for blue smoke to come out the exhaust?
It's one possible cause for it, yes.
Once at top dead center or close enough it better to tell if you take spark plug out you can even shove some nylon robe in there it make sure it doesn't fall much at all.
How are the roller rocker and push rod adjusted/ torqued
These engines are fixed dimensioned systems. Tightening the rocker arm hold down bolt does not change the geometry or lash/gap between the rocker and the push rod, or valve stem.
To adjust the lash between the rocker and valve stem you would need to change the length of the push rod (by measuring with an adjustable push rod and ordering new rods).
Thank you
How's it been since ya done any difference?
It's slowed the oil consumption down some. Has not fixed it completely, but I also did not do the backside so I did not expect a complete fix.
Why did you skip the back left bolt...?
Where in the video? I probably did it off camera and didn't get it into the shot.
ye thats the one im having trouble on rn...
Um... those bolts are "torque to yield" and should NOT be re-used.
11ft. lbs. then 90deg using an angle gauge. Here's what I found.
zzperformance.com/collections/3800/Bolts#productOutput
Highly recommend 'valve-stem seal puller pliers' You'll be -very glad- you got em'.
Magnetize small screwdriver to retrieve & install stem-locks so you don't cry.
I use rope, spray WD-40 on it stuffed into cylinder to *positively hold valves up* rotating crank to push piston into it. (an old backyard 'shade tree' mechanic trick)
Thanks for making us a video, much appreciated.
So, did it fix your oil burning problem?
It's only been 1 oil change so far, it seems to have slowed it down, but did not completely fix it.
@@in-depthdiy2123 I'm do mine i fear my oil burning is piston ring wear it the only other cause if valves seals are good. Crossing my fingers 🤞
@Andrew Dean If it was my vehicle, I'd start with the cheaper and easier option of replacing the stem seals. If it works, you're good to go. If it doesn't, you're out a little money and time compared to full on replacing the heads. This is assuming you're only burning oil and there's not a crack or broken valve in the head.
I found out my valve covers are metal 😁
Here I am, my sister burned 2 quarts in 50 miles and now we have to figure it out, and you're whining about a quart an oil change. Oh my god. I mean, I appreciate the video, but you can /live/ with a quart per oil change.
Your 2 quarts per 50 miles was at one point 1 quart an oil change.
So when piston is at TDC which valves are open or closed