This video is on par with the videos of reassembly of mechanical watches, with the droplets of lubrication, and the whole nine miles. 10/10 shotgun ASMR!
Thanks for another great video. I just bought a Templeton T2000 PB and it's similar in many ways.I had trouble getting the barrel back in place believe me. I wish I'd seen this first.
Thanks mate, for the info. Just done all this to my new bushpig, and I'm glad I did, the gun shop put it all together and just raw dogged that shit, no lube anywhere.
To be fair, its not the gun shops job to service or lubricate your firearms. But those used car salesmen should at least have the knowledge to tell you how to do it.
@fhckoutdoors I hear what you're saying, but I think if you are going to assemble the firearm, you should at least know to assemble it correctly with the lubricant. If not, just give it to me in the box. But yes, but thanks once again for your insight and knowledge. I love your channel and content. I find it highly informative and entertaining.
Great videos as always, thank you. Are you going to get hold of a Buckmaster Gen 2 M (magazine fed version). Would love you see your review of one of these. thank you
Great vid mate, very informative and gives me (as a novice) a lot more understanding on how my shotty works also (T1000) Also will be handy when I do purchase a buck master gen 2 Good onya mate keep up the sic vids, much appreciated.
There are actually quite a few differences. Different firing pin, bolt body has been changed, method for retaining the charging handle is different, internal clearances on the receiver has changed, and then obviously the finish and different furniture. I'll do a video on it one day
There is such an animal as 'Rubber grease", it's Clay based. Clay (Bentone ) based greases are normally used for high temp bearings applications, like wheel bearings, but don't tolerate water very well. They do not affect rubber. Wheel bearing lubrication recommendations these days suggest Lithium Complex greases which are more water resistant. Thanks for the assembly info, considering buying one. Cheers
I admire your professionalism to strip it down and explain it. It makes me glad I've got a triple barrel that takes down in 10 seconds and takes 2 minutes to pull through the barrels and wipe the extractors. That gives me a spare 16 minutes to have a beer and watch this video.
While they are quicker to clean after a shooing session, you'd be surprised how many break actions I get in that havent been serviced in a very long time for that exact reason... no one strips them down past taking off the barrels.
Seems like asking for trouble having a rubber o ring in a firearms gas system? Probably won't be too long before some after market outfit offers a gas piston with steel gas rings
@@edwardd9702 I know I said rubber, but it’s actually a high temp material like silicone or VMQ. You’ll find that a lot of semi auto shotguns use them too.
So it seams that the only thing keeping this from turning into a semiauto is the release bar... seeing as it catches on the slide bar and keeps it locked back until the button is pushed which then allows the slide bar and bolt to move forward into battery... so removing that release button with its latch would allow it to cycle as a semiauto.... tell me if im wrong but it looks as thou im right ..
You're half right, but this gun doesn't have a second sear aka a reset sear. So if you take the release button out you'll get hammer follow; a live round in the chamber but the hammer forward and cannot be fired.
Assuming here that if the button is removed you fire the gun the bolt goes back doesn't lock it then closes again and because of the missing reset sear the hammer follows it home where if the button is installed the bold locks back you release the trigger resetting it and push the button to close the action ready to fire.
@@ber0006 i might be missing something as it only a quick vid not detailed but it seams what locks the bolt back is the relese bar engaging on the slide bar.. unless there is something in the trigger assy that also engages on the bolt when it locked back by the release bar im missing that... i think the only way would be to try it. but i dont have one as im still tossing up bettween this and the sulan
Thanks for the video, mate. What's your thoughts on Ballistol? And also Remington Shotgun Cleaner? I'm guessing it's cheaper to get generic brake cleaner, which does the same thing? But what's safe on plastics and wood etc? I'd be interested in seeing a vid about cleaners and oils and greases, comparing the overpriced stuff from gunstores versus the cheaper alternatives from automotive stores, also explaining how to use them and their limitations etc. But I suppose with bore solvents you'd still need to buy them from the gunstore. Be interesting to get your opinion. Cheers.
Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, its easier on plastics. Electric parts cleaner (aka circuit board cleaner) works really well too and is plastic safe. Ballistol is fine, and so are most other CLP type oils, but are much better at cleaning than they are lubricating. In my opinion, anything that professes to do everything does... but poorly. I am going to do a video on cleaners vs lubricants in the 'how to clean and service' series in the next few weeks.
@fhckoutdoors Thanks for the reply, I look forward to those future videos. Electric parts cleaner sounds like isopropyl alcohol, which is great stuff haha, good for glass lenses too. I like ballistol mainly for it's mineral oil for protection while in storage, but yeah doesn't really lubricate moving parts for too long. Really need to look into using grease. Cheers.
Thanks for uploading mate. Looking at buying one of these buckmasters. Havent owned a gas operated shotgun before. Do you rate the build quality? Are they reliable? I was looking at getting the mag fed version of this. I do some pig shooting from vehicles and reloading tubes suck when your bouncing around 😆 cheers mate
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5:09 he has done it again!
@@abwdagreat words of wisdom
@@fhckoutdoors fuck yeah 😂
Awesome info. Just bought a bushpig so this helps heaps. Cheers.
Fantastic information, being newbie to shotguns this was very informative and helpful when I goto clean my shotgun
Extremely helpful. Will be rewatching when my gen 2 arrives. Thank you sir.
Thank you for taking the time to show this
This video is on par with the videos of reassembly of mechanical watches, with the droplets of lubrication, and the whole nine miles. 10/10 shotgun ASMR!
Great, very timely waiting for mine at the moment.
Thanks for another great video. I just bought a Templeton T2000 PB and it's similar in many ways.I had trouble getting the barrel back in place believe me. I wish I'd seen this first.
Thanks mate, for the info.
Just done all this to my new bushpig, and I'm glad I did, the gun shop put it all together and just raw dogged that shit, no lube anywhere.
To be fair, its not the gun shops job to service or lubricate your firearms. But those used car salesmen should at least have the knowledge to tell you how to do it.
@fhckoutdoors I hear what you're saying, but I think if you are going to assemble the firearm, you should at least know to assemble it correctly with the lubricant. If not, just give it to me in the box.
But yes, but thanks once again for your insight and knowledge. I love your channel and content.
I find it highly informative and entertaining.
awesome vid, best one out there for these types of guns. Would love to see you get hold of a Gen2 for a review. Keep up the good work!!
@@dancoope256 Shouldnhave one soon
G'day could you do a video oh how to clean & maintain a laminate rifle stock what to use & not to use etc, Cheers
Great videos as always, thank you. Are you going to get hold of a Buckmaster Gen 2 M (magazine fed version). Would love you see your review of one of these. thank you
@@desp6238 yep, can do
Thanks for showing
Great vid mate thanks for sharing.
Great vid mate, very informative and gives me (as a novice) a lot more understanding on how my shotty works also (T1000)
Also will be handy when I do purchase a buck master gen 2
Good onya mate keep up the sic vids, much appreciated.
Not unlike the adler b220, the strip down shotgun videos are good.
What’s the difference between gen 1 & gen 2? Seems the same to me? Maybe better finish?
There are actually quite a few differences. Different firing pin, bolt body has been changed, method for retaining the charging handle is different, internal clearances on the receiver has changed, and then obviously the finish and different furniture. I'll do a video on it one day
There is such an animal as 'Rubber grease", it's Clay based. Clay (Bentone ) based greases are normally used for high temp bearings applications, like wheel bearings, but don't tolerate water very well. They do not affect rubber. Wheel bearing lubrication recommendations these days suggest Lithium Complex greases which are more water resistant. Thanks for the assembly info, considering buying one. Cheers
I admire your professionalism to strip it down and explain it. It makes me glad I've got a triple barrel that takes down in 10 seconds and takes 2 minutes to pull through the barrels and wipe the extractors. That gives me a spare 16 minutes to have a beer and watch this video.
While they are quicker to clean after a shooing session, you'd be surprised how many break actions I get in that havent been serviced in a very long time for that exact reason... no one strips them down past taking off the barrels.
@@fhckoutdoors Yep, most people can't spell maintenance let alone remove the ejectors off a silver pigeon to clean them.
Seems like asking for trouble having a rubber o ring in a firearms gas system? Probably won't be too long before some after market outfit offers a gas piston with steel gas rings
@@edwardd9702 I know I said rubber, but it’s actually a high temp material like silicone or VMQ. You’ll find that a lot of semi auto shotguns use them too.
Great vid, would love to see this for a T2000. Lol I know not asking for much. Appreciated anyway.
How is it with a lighter loads? I know the gen 1 struggled with that and I would want to use it for some #7.5 28g roughly
@@Jay-qd4nk I’m going to do some testing and make it into a video
Well done it's great to see a ozzy doing a no bullshit gun review. How much would you payfor gen 2 in North Queensland cheers
@@AusFeral23 the same price as in south Queensland
Great tutorial 👍
So it seams that the only thing keeping this from turning into a semiauto is the release bar... seeing as it catches on the slide bar and keeps it locked back until the button is pushed which then allows the slide bar and bolt to move forward into battery... so removing that release button with its latch would allow it to cycle as a semiauto.... tell me if im wrong but it looks as thou im right ..
You're half right, but this gun doesn't have a second sear aka a reset sear. So if you take the release button out you'll get hammer follow; a live round in the chamber but the hammer forward and cannot be fired.
@@fhckoutdoors so what part of the release button stops that then as it only catches on the slide bar and keeps it locked back and thats all isnt it
Assuming here that if the button is removed you fire the gun the bolt goes back doesn't lock it then closes again and because of the missing reset sear the hammer follows it home where if the button is installed the bold locks back you release the trigger resetting it and push the button to close the action ready to fire.
@@ber0006 i might be missing something as it only a quick vid not detailed but it seams what locks the bolt back is the relese bar engaging on the slide bar.. unless there is something in the trigger assy that also engages on the bolt when it locked back by the release bar im missing that... i think the only way would be to try it. but i dont have one as im still tossing up bettween this and the sulan
Thanks for the video, mate. What's your thoughts on Ballistol? And also Remington Shotgun Cleaner? I'm guessing it's cheaper to get generic brake cleaner, which does the same thing? But what's safe on plastics and wood etc? I'd be interested in seeing a vid about cleaners and oils and greases, comparing the overpriced stuff from gunstores versus the cheaper alternatives from automotive stores, also explaining how to use them and their limitations etc. But I suppose with bore solvents you'd still need to buy them from the gunstore. Be interesting to get your opinion. Cheers.
Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, its easier on plastics. Electric parts cleaner (aka circuit board cleaner) works really well too and is plastic safe. Ballistol is fine, and so are most other CLP type oils, but are much better at cleaning than they are lubricating. In my opinion, anything that professes to do everything does... but poorly.
I am going to do a video on cleaners vs lubricants in the 'how to clean and service' series in the next few weeks.
@fhckoutdoors Thanks for the reply, I look forward to those future videos. Electric parts cleaner sounds like isopropyl alcohol, which is great stuff haha, good for glass lenses too. I like ballistol mainly for it's mineral oil for protection while in storage, but yeah doesn't really lubricate moving parts for too long. Really need to look into using grease. Cheers.
You should be on commission 😁😁😁
Is there a vid like this for the templeton t2000?
No but I can do one if you want?
Yes. That would be great!
Love your content and delivery, mate - best channel!
Thanks for uploading mate. Looking at buying one of these buckmasters. Havent owned a gas operated shotgun before. Do you rate the build quality? Are they reliable? I was looking at getting the mag fed version of this. I do some pig shooting from vehicles and reloading tubes suck when your bouncing around 😆 cheers mate
I bought one, if that answers the question.
Yes....yes it does :p