I know how it is to get frustrated with a project. Many times it is better to walk away from it for a while. If I had to guess, your viewers will come up with something to help you out and get the lift running. Tips are always good my friend, I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
Really enjoy the Q & A sessions. I switched out to .023 wire after you said that's what you use. Total game changer, I don't struggle with blow through like I did before trying to use .030. Thanks
I know first hand how frustrating projects can get and looking for parts sometimes is even more frustrating but you can do it good luck with it thumbs up 👍
35 years ago, while building my shop, I came across an old X-Y overhead crane. It was trash but it used those same type “cam” followers for the chain fall trolley. They wanted a fortune for them. I was broke and could not afford anything near that money. I eventually replaced everyone of those followers with a regular bearing riding on a hardened bolt spaced with washers to center it. My over head crane has worked flawlessly for over thirty years. Just what worked for me.
Get a hold of McMaster-Carr like you had on that piece of paper with your rollers and see if they will supply them to you in return for advertising and mention on your Channel over and over until the project is done mention it once or twice every episode on your Channel they will probably go for that you never know unless you ask
One thought for the ramp - if it's not going up and down very often could you use a trolley jack or farm jack on one end, put the pins in or whatever to hold it at that level, then go do the other end? Some years back I thought I needed a ramp when what I actually needed was a high lift jack and some tall axle stands. So much depends on "use case" - up and down twice a month or up and down twice an hour? (I loved that your bead roller stand was the engine stand you already owned). My use case turned out to be lift, watch the kids grow up, then down again, but they've left home now and I'm back in the garage again.
Thanks for going into the question of CO2/Argon vs CO2.. You've given me something to think on..I really like the idea of saving some cash on gas, but my next big welding challenge is going to be my roll cage, and cleaning up welds on a cage tends to upset tech guys at the track. I just filled up on CO2/Argon anyway, so I'll have a few weeks to think it over before the next refill.. Thanks Tony!
I looked into switching from CO2/Argon to straight CO2, and was told you need a different regulator so it doesn’t freeze up. I’m curious if that is only really possible to happen when doing a lot of continuous welding versus the intermittent welding we do on sheet metal.
I enjoy your weekly Q&A sessions. Walking away to rethink things works for me too. Good luck with finding those rollers, last comment someone wrote that in the UK he can find any size, but prices and shipping are the hard and expensive part. Hope you find them missing pieces. 👍💪✌️
Hi Tony. It's unfortunate that you can't use the lift just as it is but if you price what a new lift would cost, you should be way ahead by fixing the one you have. I don't know if this will work for you but I will buy parts a little at a time in order to not have a huge bill at the end of any one month. Once I have everything, then I can tackle the project. That rusted pump part looked like it might be a sort of junction box. You might be able to get a local machine shop to make that for you if you can't find one already made.
Ah Tony I knows ya will gets her done to that I have no doubt . I can almost invision Crusty sitting atop that there lift. God Bless Ya Brother and i wish You and The Misses A very Merry Christmas . Kel
Hello Fitzee Those bearings are only needle bearings inside the roller... Surely a good engineering shop or a bloke with a lathe and a bit of time could remanufacture or adapt them. They don't need to be the same just the same size and able to take the weight! Maybe I'm just over simplifying things😂😊
It's winter time and time to take a winter mental break. Stop stressing. You will get a clearer image of what you need. 😉 😮😮 bless you brother Love your channel
Automotive rear axle bearings maybe? Or maybe it was pinion bearings. If those bearing don't roll inside a "C" Channel then the OD won't matter. I remember my old boss back in the mid seventies repaired the shop lift like that one using 65 Ford Mustang rear axle bearing or maybe it was pinion bearings. He made shaft's and used the bearing as the roller. I just remember because he had us use motor oil from one of those metal oil dispensers that make that little pop when you push the bottom in and release it. He told me they roll better then the original rollers because the diameter is larger and only had to shim something to make it level so the alignment machine was accurate. The bearing were open on the sides, not sealed but I don't know if he pulled the black covers out so we can lube it or not. If I were you I would go to the local Auto Parts store and look for the lowest price axle type bearing and maybe the worst part would be finding a shaft the size of the ID of the bearing. Maybe someone local with a lathe could help. EDIT: If you're repairing it for someone else then you might get the original design but you don't really need the exact rollers if it's your lift. You just need them to roll along the bottom and not skid, or, you could make them skid if you make a "Puck" holder and use a DELRON puck or square.
@@fitzeesfabrications Yeah I know. The ramp weight and the weight of whatever vehicle you have on it. I believe they use those rollers not because of the weight but to make it accurate. Pinion & Axle bearing are cheep, you could even double them up if you think one on each side can't handle the weight. I kind of think doing a burnout in a car or hitting pot holes in the road would be way more force then rolling back and forth on a flat piece of steel going extremely slow.
I like your Q&A because you actually listen to your audience. Good tip on the Co and Co mix. It seems to weld better for me with the Co mix, but you brought up a good point, you end up grinding it away many times, and its price keeps just going up. You mentioned one time before that you use the smaller wire and I finally went to the .023-.025 and it is so much better than .032 for sheet metal. I have less burn through and so much more control now. Christmas is coming. You never know what Santa will deliver, maybe rollers for your ramp. You just have to beleave. Have a Merry Christmas and a healthy New Year to you and your family.
Those bearings sure are expensive. There's always the option of going with sealed roller bearings and smaller diameter bolts if it doesn't work out. The way you manage to work around sticky situations, I'm sure you'll get this lift working in the end. Like you said, time is the biggest issue. I have a lot of projects to get done myself and I always seem to never have enough hours in the day and the days fly like nothing.
I think you are right to just leave the ramps until you can get all the parts first. It is going to be an ongoing affair to repair it as you are using it. As long as the steel on it is ok it will work out.
If you have a good farm equipment dealer close to you. Pick up headers for bailers,hay cutters use that style of bearing in the reels. Maybe? Not sure if it “needs” to be 2” od. Just an idea, probably don’t have what is needed
Good luck Tony, I sometimes have to get away from a project only to work on another. I don't know how many times I wanted to sell my Mustang because of frustration but I stuck with it. I took it for one last rip today before I start some big work on it over the winter. I really like this question of the week series.
Hey Fitz I think your over thinking the lift table, Just put it back together and run new Hydraulic lines and test it out, the rollers can slide on some grease, your not using it as it was built for, you may run it up and lock it in place maybe 20 times a year, so maybe just get it working and test it out make sure it's safe but don't over think it, it's a lift not a Swiss Watch! Lol Just my suggestion Abby
You probably have answered this question in the past, and I haven’t been able to find it. Where do you get your metal? I know you use old shelving, but what kind of shelving is it, and where would you recommend getting metal from?
Have you seen the lift dd speed shop has? It's a sizzor lift he bought from princess auto or Harbor freight. Takes up less room. Not 100 percent sure about the vendor. Valves lines rebuild parts for cylinders may start to run up there. Have fun Tony.
It's good to see you get frustrated about some thing. You seem to always have the answer to everything, or a plan B if you don't, and, it makes you seem a little superhuman and a little bit like your advice isn't something we can always follow, because we can't do what you can. It's nice to see how relatable you are. As to the expensive rollers... why not just use cheap $2 ball bearings, doubled-up for extra width? Maybe junkyard wheel hubs if the design allows them to be oversized. It's just a roller, can't be rocket science. For the hydraulics, do you have a mom 'n pop forklift servicing place there on the Rock? The corporate shops shook their head but my local one here let me take whatever I wanted off of their old wrecks in their boneyard. Hydraulic stuff almost never fails so they have no value in holding it. Power palletjacks might be another source of suitable scale components, probably same place has those.
Agreed! Just give it the ol' fitz-a-rooni and adapt some front wheel drive bearings from your local parts store. They're nice and wide. Just need to figure a way to weld that stub to it. Try and find the smallest diameter bearing you can, say a Toyota Corolla or something alike. Com'on, you can do it, Fitz! Wow us again.
I'm surprised that none of the 5 bearing places near you have anything close. 2 of my local places probably have them, but Ontario would be closer to you and then again shipping to NF. The valve body you should be able to get from princessauto. It would be slightly different, but it's just a proportioning and lock valve in one.
I would just buy heavy duty steel bolts. Cut the head off the bolt weld a big thick washer on there . Then all your left with is 12 dollars each on the bearings . Put back in screw nylon nut on job done
McMaster-Carr is a good source, inexpensive compared to most and good quality. Well with thousands of comments I'm sure you got it from someone else, but I did recommend getting a track cam follower and convert to inches if possible... At least I was right, but this is what I do. I buy parts and I'm tasked with buying parts that are not available, sometimes they are not exact, especially metric. If you lived in EU you could find the exact part though. Probably have to speak German or Italian though...
I think we all have a project that was stalled out by money, my 47 is at that point now and it seems like everything is just waiting on income to move forward, good luck with it Tony and hopefully you can find an alternative to the high costs replacement parts
It's not so much money. Its more about time then anything else. Between waiting on parts and man hours I need to put into it there is alot of time involved to try and do this in one shot.
Hi Fitzee, QQ for you? what do you do regarding oiling the air grinder? do you jut put a few drops in daily or do you have an oiling system in the airline. If so do you have separate lines/feeds for the spray gun?
Whilst you'd ideally use cam track rollers as original, because you're not going to be lifting cars up and down all day, ordinary sealed ball races will do the job. Stack two or three together. Some cheap lifts come that way.
Hi! My name is Art and I live in Port Union NFL and I would like to know if you live in NFL? I would like to meet you and see some of the work you do. I do some of that work to!
I've been trying to post to this channel but my posts are not appearing. Tony, have you tried contacting BDI in Donovans to match the roller bearings you need?
@@fitzeesfabrications You may be surprised bro no harm to check their web site and or drop out, speaking from experience they can match just about any size roller, spherical bearings . Basil Fern is another. Bill at Atlantic hose any fitting can make up any thing you need in hydraulics including manifolds.
I weld all day every day & never buy any gas - I use flux core. Yes, you have to brush off the slag - I use a brush in a cordless drill - yes there is spatter - I grind everything so who cares? Gas used cost me a fortune every month. Now it doesn't -which I count as a win.
You might just want to cut your losses and and replace that lift with a QuickJack. I bought mine from Costco online with free delivery for $2000 cad taxes in. Lifts 7000lbs
Tony, I think i can help you out on some hydraulic parts, give me hose sizes/length's and fitting type I can make them and ship them to you. No cost to you.
The higher the CO2 concentration in the welding gas the greater the penetration and the narrower the bead profile, for really thin material 5% CO2 95% argon or 5% CO2 94%argon 1% oxygen gives the best and fastest welds. CO2is not an inert gas as it breaks down in the arc to carbon and oxygen, the oxygen acts as a wetting agent and the carbon then either is absorbed into the steel or goes into the atmosphere as carbon monoxide.
I know how it is to get frustrated with a project. Many times it is better to walk away from it for a while. If I had to guess, your viewers will come up with something to help you out and get the lift running. Tips are always good my friend, I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
Thank you for the tips, Tony! You’re the man!
Resurrecting old stuff is sometimes a major pain and a challenge. Once your done it will last another 60 years though.
Really enjoy the Q & A sessions. I switched out to .023 wire after you said that's what you use. Total game changer, I don't struggle with blow through like I did before trying to use .030. Thanks
I know first hand how frustrating projects can get and looking for parts sometimes is even more frustrating but you can do it good luck with it thumbs up 👍
35 years ago, while building my shop, I came across an old X-Y overhead crane. It was trash but it used those same type “cam” followers for the chain fall trolley. They wanted a fortune for them. I was broke and could not afford anything near that money. I eventually replaced everyone of those followers with a regular bearing riding on a hardened bolt spaced with washers to center it. My over head crane has worked flawlessly for over thirty years. Just what worked for me.
Get a hold of McMaster-Carr like you had on that piece of paper with your rollers and see if they will supply them to you in return for advertising and mention on your Channel over and over until the project is done mention it once or twice every episode on your Channel they will probably go for that you never know unless you ask
I used the ol' Cut&Butt today and doing some more tomorrow.
Thanks for all the instructions !
One thought for the ramp - if it's not going up and down very often could you use a trolley jack or farm jack on one end, put the pins in or whatever to hold it at that level, then go do the other end? Some years back I thought I needed a ramp when what I actually needed was a high lift jack and some tall axle stands. So much depends on "use case" - up and down twice a month or up and down twice an hour? (I loved that your bead roller stand was the engine stand you already owned). My use case turned out to be lift, watch the kids grow up, then down again, but they've left home now and I'm back in the garage again.
Too big and heavy for that.
Thanks for going into the question of CO2/Argon vs CO2..
You've given me something to think on..I really like the idea of saving some cash on gas, but my next big welding challenge is going to be my roll cage, and cleaning up welds on a cage tends to upset tech guys at the track.
I just filled up on CO2/Argon anyway, so I'll have a few weeks to think it over before the next refill..
Thanks Tony!
I looked into switching from CO2/Argon to straight CO2, and was told you need a different regulator so it doesn’t freeze up. I’m curious if that is only really possible to happen when doing a lot of continuous welding versus the intermittent welding we do on sheet metal.
I enjoy your weekly Q&A sessions. Walking away to rethink things works for me too. Good luck with finding those rollers, last comment someone wrote that in the UK he can find any size, but prices and shipping are the hard and expensive part.
Hope you find them missing pieces. 👍💪✌️
I like your channel you do good work.
Hi Tony. It's unfortunate that you can't use the lift just as it is but if you price what a new lift would cost, you should be way ahead by fixing the one you have. I don't know if this will work for you but I will buy parts a little at a time in order to not have a huge bill at the end of any one month. Once I have everything, then I can tackle the project. That rusted pump part looked like it might be a sort of junction box. You might be able to get a local machine shop to make that for you if you can't find one already made.
It needed work andi wanted to know every inch of it so I know it was safe
Do a Live stream so the viewers can help finance the parts with Super chats.
Ah Tony I knows ya will gets her done to that I have no doubt . I can almost invision Crusty sitting atop that there lift. God Bless Ya Brother and i wish You and The Misses A very Merry Christmas . Kel
I hear ya Tony. Some of those big iron projects can get really frustrating.
Rome wasn't built in a day. Got to have coffee brakes in there too. Stay safe Tony, later.😊
Hello Fitzee
Those bearings are only needle bearings inside the roller...
Surely a good engineering shop or a bloke with a lathe and a bit of time could remanufacture or adapt them. They don't need to be the same just the same size and able to take the weight!
Maybe I'm just over simplifying things😂😊
It's winter time and time to take a winter mental break. Stop stressing. You will get a clearer image of what you need. 😉 😮😮 bless you brother
Love your channel
Automotive rear axle bearings maybe? Or maybe it was pinion bearings. If those bearing don't roll inside a "C" Channel then the OD won't matter.
I remember my old boss back in the mid seventies repaired the shop lift like that one using 65 Ford Mustang rear axle bearing or maybe it was pinion bearings. He made shaft's and used the bearing as the roller. I just remember because he had us use motor oil from one of those metal oil dispensers that make that little pop when you push the bottom in and release it. He told me they roll better then the original rollers because the diameter is larger and only had to shim something to make it level so the alignment machine was accurate. The bearing were open on the sides, not sealed but I don't know if he pulled the black covers out so we can lube it or not.
If I were you I would go to the local Auto Parts store and look for the lowest price axle type bearing and maybe the worst part would be finding a shaft the size of the ID of the bearing. Maybe someone local with a lathe could help.
EDIT: If you're repairing it for someone else then you might get the original design but you don't really need the exact rollers if it's your lift. You just need them to roll along the bottom and not skid, or, you could make them skid if you make a "Puck" holder and use a DELRON puck or square.
The ramp weight is on these they are a special roller made for this job
@@fitzeesfabrications Yeah I know. The ramp weight and the weight of whatever vehicle you have on it. I believe they use those rollers not because of the weight but to make it accurate. Pinion & Axle bearing are cheep, you could even double them up if you think one on each side can't handle the weight. I kind of think doing a burnout in a car or hitting pot holes in the road would be way more force then rolling back and forth on a flat piece of steel going extremely slow.
@@fitzeesfabrications Check this bearing TIMKEN 510006
Toyota Highlander
McMaster is quite expensive. See if you can find the bearings from another source....if not, you are still ahead of the game...
I like your Q&A because you actually listen to your audience.
Good tip on the Co and Co mix. It seems to weld better for me with the Co mix, but you brought up a good point, you end up grinding it away many times, and its price keeps just going up.
You mentioned one time before that you use the smaller wire and I finally went to the .023-.025 and it is so much better than .032 for sheet metal. I have less burn through and so much more control now.
Christmas is coming. You never know what Santa will deliver, maybe rollers for your ramp. You just have to beleave.
Have a Merry Christmas and a healthy New Year to you and your family.
Back burner it is😉😉
Those bearings sure are expensive. There's always the option of going with sealed roller bearings and smaller diameter bolts if it doesn't work out. The way you manage to work around sticky situations, I'm sure you'll get this lift working in the end. Like you said, time is the biggest issue. I have a lot of projects to get done myself and I always seem to never have enough hours in the day and the days fly like nothing.
Greetings Fitzee, sorry to hear about all the problems with the lift. Good things will come. Take care my friend and stay positive. 👍👍
I think you are right to just leave the ramps until you can get all the parts first. It is going to be an ongoing affair to repair it as you are using it. As long as the steel on it is ok it will work out.
If you have a good farm equipment dealer close to you. Pick up headers for bailers,hay cutters use that style of bearing in the reels. Maybe? Not sure if it “needs” to be 2” od. Just an idea, probably don’t have what is needed
The measurements can't be no smaller. As the mounts are like 2 inches as well.
Good luck Tony, I sometimes have to get away from a project only to work on another. I don't know how many times I wanted to sell my Mustang because of frustration but I stuck with it. I took it for one last rip today before I start some big work on it over the winter. I really like this question of the week series.
Hey Fitz I think your over thinking the lift table, Just put it back together and run new Hydraulic lines and test it out, the rollers can slide on some grease, your not using it as it was built for, you may run it up and lock it in place maybe 20 times a year, so maybe just get it working and test it out make sure it's safe but don't over think it, it's a lift not a Swiss Watch! Lol Just my suggestion Abby
You’ll figure it out, sucks about shipping to NL
There is a company on the Island called Avalon Automotive Equipment. The website shows lifts & such. Maybe they can help with parts.
GOOD VIDEO THANK YOU..
You probably have answered this question in the past, and I haven’t been able to find it. Where do you get your metal? I know you use old shelving, but what kind of shelving is it, and where would you recommend getting metal from?
On that one, paint right over 40 grit, cuts the time down. lol
Have you seen the lift dd speed shop has? It's a sizzor lift he bought from princess auto or Harbor freight. Takes up less room. Not 100 percent sure about the vendor. Valves lines rebuild parts for cylinders may start to run up there. Have fun Tony.
I have no doubt you will get it done
find a forklift and you may find some of the hydraulics you need if they have side shift they have some bearings
It's good to see you get frustrated about some thing. You seem to always have the answer to everything, or a plan B if you don't, and, it makes you seem a little superhuman and a little bit like your advice isn't something we can always follow, because we can't do what you can. It's nice to see how relatable you are. As to the expensive rollers... why not just use cheap $2 ball bearings, doubled-up for extra width? Maybe junkyard wheel hubs if the design allows them to be oversized. It's just a roller, can't be rocket science. For the hydraulics, do you have a mom 'n pop forklift servicing place there on the Rock? The corporate shops shook their head but my local one here let me take whatever I wanted off of their old wrecks in their boneyard. Hydraulic stuff almost never fails so they have no value in holding it. Power palletjacks might be another source of suitable scale components, probably same place has those.
The weight of the ramp rolls on these. They have to be a snug fit
Agreed! Just give it the ol' fitz-a-rooni and adapt some front wheel drive bearings from your local parts store. They're nice and wide. Just need to figure a way to weld that stub to it. Try and find the smallest diameter bearing you can, say a Toyota Corolla or something alike.
Com'on, you can do it, Fitz! Wow us again.
I'm surprised that none of the 5 bearing places near you have anything close. 2 of my local places probably have them, but Ontario would be closer to you and then again shipping to NF. The valve body you should be able to get from princessauto. It would be slightly different, but it's just a proportioning and lock valve in one.
I would just buy heavy duty steel bolts. Cut the head off the bolt weld a big thick washer on there . Then all your left with is 12 dollars each on the bearings . Put back in screw nylon nut on job done
Hopefully someone with new old stock can come through for you👍
Are those rollers so complex that you can't replicate them, provided you could find suitable bearings? It's hard to tell just from the video.
All the weight of the ramp sits on these. They need to be a quality roller
McMaster-Carr is a good source, inexpensive compared to most and good quality.
Well with thousands of comments I'm sure you got it from someone else, but I did recommend getting a track cam follower and convert to inches if possible... At least I was right, but this is what I do.
I buy parts and I'm tasked with buying parts that are not available, sometimes they are not exact, especially metric. If you lived in EU you could find the exact part though. Probably have to speak German or Italian though...
I think we all have a project that was stalled out by money, my 47 is at that point now and it seems like everything is just waiting on income to move forward, good luck with it Tony and hopefully you can find an alternative to the high costs replacement parts
It's not so much money. Its more about time then anything else. Between waiting on parts and man hours I need to put into it there is alot of time involved to try and do this in one shot.
Hi Fitzee, QQ for you? what do you do regarding oiling the air grinder? do you jut put a few drops in daily or do you have an oiling system in the airline. If so do you have separate lines/feeds for the spray gun?
I have commented on the last 2 videos, they haven't posted for some reason.
I see this one
Whilst you'd ideally use cam track rollers as original, because you're not going to be lifting cars up and down all day, ordinary sealed ball races will do the job. Stack two or three together. Some cheap lifts come that way.
🥓
Sounds like a plan
I have 2 of the cam followers that size - 2nd hand. They were used on a wheelchair lift I had built. Have a small video to send - if you would like.
That be cool. You can send the video to my email. fitzee23t@hotmail.com.
You could make those rollers for about $15 American each.😊
Little by little Fitzee 😬
Hi! My name is Art and I live in Port Union NFL and I would like to know if you live in NFL? I would like to meet you and see some of the work you do. I do some of that work to!
What brand of lift is it ? I’m in upstate New York USA there are some lifts made locally here
Have no idea. Only tag on it is worn off.
Are pipe welding procedures call for CO2
Depending on the job
I've been trying to post to this channel but my posts are not appearing.
Tony, have you tried contacting BDI in Donovans to match the roller bearings you need?
No I have not. Anything local for most part would most likely have to order it in.
@@fitzeesfabrications You may be surprised bro no harm to check their web site and or drop out, speaking from experience they can match just about any size roller, spherical bearings . Basil Fern is another.
Bill at Atlantic hose any fitting can make up any thing you need in hydraulics including manifolds.
I weld all day every day & never buy any gas - I use flux core. Yes, you have to brush off the slag - I use a brush in a cordless drill - yes there is spatter - I grind everything so who cares? Gas used cost me a fortune every month. Now it doesn't -which I count as a win.
I have attempted a cut & butt using shielded 0.6mm Mig wire - however it resulted in a calamity. You must be a seriously good welder.
You might just want to cut your losses and and replace that lift with a QuickJack. I bought mine from Costco online with free delivery for $2000 cad taxes in. Lifts 7000lbs
Haven't see no new jack for that money. Cheapest I seen was 3900.
Tony, I think i can help you out on some hydraulic parts, give me hose sizes/length's and fitting type I can make them and ship them to you. No cost to you.
The higher the CO2 concentration in the welding gas the greater the penetration and the narrower the bead profile, for really thin material 5% CO2 95% argon or 5% CO2 94%argon 1% oxygen gives the best and fastest welds. CO2is not an inert gas as it breaks down in the arc to carbon and oxygen, the oxygen acts as a wetting agent and the carbon then either is absorbed into the steel or goes into the atmosphere as carbon monoxide.
Make your own cam followers out of tapered bearings
Id rather watch you work on the lead sled these fire side chats are mind numbingly boring sorry dont want to see you sitting there yacking
You just pass these ones over and keep a eye open for the sled videos. Got OK to do alot more mods to what is already done. Stick around.