The MItre10 how-to videos are the best. They're clear and concise and, above all, I come away having found what I was looking for. So many other videos out there waste my time droning on and on about stuff I couldn't care about.
+shimmeringreflection Their delivery fees are shockingly high. A 7 minute drive return and a 5 minute unload would have cost me $90. You can buy all the shit you want from their shop but you need to sort your own delivery. A 20 minute delivery job for $90 kaahmon. Now I'll drive the extra k to Bunnings.
Came to comments , to check the man-splaining critiques, to see if there was some improvement potential. Nothing!! (That's rare.)This is great. Very straight forward video. Thanks, Mate! (Mite? -NZ))
I would highly recommend having the slab height above the existing ground to prevent groundwater from running in under the shed bottom to keep everything inside dry. I also recommend using a edging trowel and run around all 4 sides to neaten the slab before the concrete dries.
Thank you so much for putting your valuable time to show us & i totally agree with the comment made by @pinkows 6 years ago . Thank you again keep up the good work. Ben from downunder 😉
Doesnt matter how far you dug in, your boxing at 100mm high is sitting directly on the dirt. Then you add basefill, then sand, polythene and on top, the concrete. All this you say is 175mm which is higher than your boxing. How so? Although its not shown this way, do you sit the boxing on the base course?
***** I thought it's just a minor mistake in making a diagram to show how the box is setup on the ground. In the diagram, the box doesn't sit on the base, but it goes through the base. So I think we can have an option to lay down the box on the base or the box goes through the base as shown in the diagram. If the box sits on the base, the box should be 100mm high. If the box goes through the base, it should be more than 100mm high (125 mm for example).
Yeah, 100mm boxing but the basefill, sand and concrete is supposed to be 150mm high so he either made the concrete layer not as thick as it was supposed to be or got the measurement of the boxing wrong cos it didnt look like he put the boxing on top of the basefill.
Really good job ! Just seem like it would fill up with water , but different places may drain differently, in south Louisiana, that puppy will be flooded in no time ,
Informative and too the point. Thanks for making a great guide. I like the rebate idea - you just want to be perfectly sure your shed will fit over it! (Since this is aimed at the DIY person, maybe it's worth building your shed first to get perfect measurements)? Also, in Australia we have a "concrete taxi" which is a truck that will mix your desired volume of concrete on site. No hiring mixers and lugging around bags of sand and concrete. Just wheel barrow it in as he makes it! No waste and no cleanup ;) might be worth a look for some people?
Harrison Forsyth so you frame for footings & pad at the same time than pour it at once. Only the footing is deeper than spread cement over the whole pad with footing.
I just came across his videos, and they're great. As for metric, I live in Canada and have to deal with both metric and imperial ('cause we're close to the US), and I went through the change-over as a kid. Using integer numbers of feet still works for from 1 to 20 ft, but it breaks down when you're into fractions of an inch. What's 5 ft 3 5/8 inches minus 3 ft 7 3/16 inches? It's way easier to do that all in millimeters.
Hey Ryan, the pad can be level with the ground or raised above it. We've opted for level with the ground, so have removed 150mm of soil to allow for the compacted base course and concrete. Regardless of which option you choose, you'll likely need to remove a bit of soil and grass in order to ensured you've got a level surface to start from ^Matt
Wouldn't you need some sort of water course around that slab, considering it is below ground level at one end? I'm no expert, but that set up seemed wonky.
Yup thats what I want to know. AND if the gravel is 75mm and the concrete is 75mm that is 150 mm and the boards he used is 100mm. have I missed something.
0:39 "Just leave your nail sticking out a little way, when we take the boxing off it's gonna make it nice and easy". 0:45 Hammer it home son! Good work though, honestly I think these vids are good value. Keep it up Mitre10!
I will be laying a concrete slab (2 inches deth) on an existing concrete slab to level the surface. Do I need to put a mesh wire? Your comments is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I am not in the construction industry nor am I a carpenter, I wanted a good guide to help with small projects such as small sheds and some remodeling around the house. So there’s a magic which is Shed Plan [ visit here *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. This Shed Plan covers all my instructions from top to bottom in a step by step manner.
I've read conflicting stuff online about moisture barriers. Some claiming pouring concrete onto it will not let it cure properly, causing the water to rise to top rather than draining through the basecourse. I'm not sure whether I should use it on my driveway?
From what I've seen, on a garage-size project, you use a vibrating wand to raise the water and let out air bubbles then you let it evaporate from the top of the concrete before you damp it down, keeping it moist while it finishes curing. I am DEFINITELY not an expert so do your own research.
Hey Arun, you're not going to be wanting to lay your concrete in the rain. The timber is used for the boxing of the concrete pad and will be removed once the concrete has dried.
A hack idea i wanted some opinions on ... i have a remote property where the soil filters into a soft powdery sand. I'd like to make 24x24x6 deep pavers i can drive over but want to bring in the minimal amount of materials and Id like to mix each paver with a drill in place into a reusable plastic oil coated form. For reinforcement something in bags i can throw in and mix like some fiber. Think this will work? What's a good mix ratio if using portland cement? Any way to manually add some air to the pavers and make them even thicker? I was also thinking of manually compacting the base and adding a polymer to harded the base before it before mixing the cement over it. The form will have slightly rounded corners and i plan to cut out an aggressive bevel.
If you're located in New Zealand, definitely head into your local store and have a chat with our team. Otherwise, you're local DIY/hardware store should be able to give you some pointers ^Charlie
If you want to lay pavers or any sort of material to drive a car on, you will need to ensure you have a well compacted base, dig area out, place in 75mm base course compact, 20mm gap 7 fines and compact again. For mixing ratios read the back of the cement bag. Place your form in place, add mesh if you want pavers to be as strong as possible (check out this video www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-paving ). If you are wanting to drive on these then I’d recommend that you make the pavers 100mm thick.
Your shed looks great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I built an 8x10 shed for my kids in my backyard earlier this year using plans I got from *WoodBlueprints. Com* Clear directions and an accurate materials list...It was great for a novice builder like myself!
Your boxing is 100mm high but your fill is 150mm with 75mm concrete on top of 75mm basecourse, sand and polythene. What's the go? What did you do here to create the magic of no 'easy as' overflow?
My rebate needed to be 70mm. Ensure you really work the concrete up underneath. (Mine ended up rounded off a little on the outer edge) Otherwise, great video! 👍
Thanks for the informative video - i was wondering why is it necessary to cover the soil with gravel and sand, then cover it plastic surface? Is the gravel and sand still necessary when plastic covering would be sufficient? Any feed back would be appreciate it.
Hey Jessi, like a lot of DIY projects, putting in that time to make sure your job is properly prepped makes the difference in the long term. In this case making sure plants/grass and any loose dirt is removed, your surface is levelled out and the base layers (and polythene) are sorted means that when it comes to getting your concrete down you'll have a better result. 👍 ^Matt
The mesh I see at Mitre10 is not galvanised and has some surface rust on it. It shouldn't rust any further once the concrete has cured as there is no air.
By the way a couple of more questions: What is the standard strength of typical concrete mix, is it 3,000 PSI? And, when is reinforced steel bars used instead of wire mesh? Thanks again.
Hi Joshua the measurements in the handy guide here www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-a-concrete-pad have 75mm from bottom of basecourse to polythene then its 75 mm of concrete :) ^Ryan
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
The MItre10 how-to videos are the best. They're clear and concise and, above all, I come away having found what I was looking for. So many other videos out there waste my time droning on and on about stuff I couldn't care about.
+shimmeringreflection I have to agree. best DIY videos by a home improvement store that I've seen
+shimmeringreflection Their delivery fees are shockingly high. A 7 minute drive return and a 5 minute unload would have cost me $90. You can buy all the shit you want from their shop but you need to sort your own delivery. A 20 minute delivery job for $90 kaahmon. Now I'll drive the extra k to Bunnings.
shimmeringreflection
shimmeringreflection ppp999kimh1
shimmeringreflection steer WHEN
these are prob the best diy videos out there..
Thanks heaps Adrian 🔨
THIS GUY IS BRILLIANT AS ALWAYS !!!!! DON'T PREFER TO WATCH ANYONE BUT HIM !!! KIWIS ARE AWESOME IN THEIR TUTORIAL !!!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗
Kiwi accent always makes me smile, god bless em.
Yeah but to be fair, that's a brilliant name you've got
Came to comments , to check the man-splaining critiques, to see if there was some improvement potential. Nothing!! (That's rare.)This is great. Very straight forward video. Thanks, Mate! (Mite? -NZ))
We'll take that positive feedback! Cheers, mate. ^Rhi
I would highly recommend having the slab height above the existing ground to prevent groundwater from running in under the shed bottom to keep everything inside dry. I also recommend using a edging trowel and run around all 4 sides to neaten the slab before the concrete dries.
Had rebaits in it no point would never see it but definitely spot on about having the slab above the existing ground 🤣🤣🤦♂️
Are you just saying that because you heard it from someone else a couple of days before?
Hello from England. I love these videos, really practical and helpful. Thanks!
His SHID will be class.
Great video. Covered all of the points I was looking for. Thanks!
Best concrete vid I seen thus far 💯💯💯
nice and easy explain, any one can follow your instructions, Great Job mate. thank you.
Always informative and practical projects. Thanks!!
thank you 😃
Very good summary video. I really don't like how the ground is very sloped which makes the concrete slab looks unlevelled (but I know it is).
Thank you so much for putting your valuable time to show us & i totally agree with the comment made by @pinkows 6 years ago . Thank you again keep up the good work.
Ben from downunder 😉
You are so welcome, thanks so much for watching Ben! ^Cam
i think he is great and very easy to understand
marrod Rivera anbbvfyfdrsfd
thank you for taking the time explaining it slowly and making the video.
Doesnt matter how far you dug in, your boxing at 100mm high is sitting directly on the dirt. Then you add basefill, then sand, polythene and on top, the concrete. All this you say is 175mm which is higher than your boxing. How so? Although its not shown this way, do you sit the boxing on the base course?
Mjjk
K9/9
*****
I thought it's just a minor mistake in making a diagram to show how the box is setup on the ground. In the diagram, the box doesn't sit on the base, but it goes through the base. So I think we can have an option to lay down the box on the base or the box goes through the base as shown in the diagram. If the box sits on the base, the box should be 100mm high. If the box goes through the base, it should be more than 100mm high (125 mm for example).
p
Yeah, 100mm boxing but the basefill, sand and concrete is supposed to be 150mm high so he either made the concrete layer not as thick as it was supposed to be or got the measurement of the boxing wrong cos it didnt look like he put the boxing on top of the basefill.
Really good job ! Just seem like it would fill up with water , but different places may drain differently, in south Louisiana, that puppy will be flooded in no time ,
Great guide - well explained and shot
How can you have 75mm base coarse and sand inside the boxing , then 75mm of concrete poured, but have only 100mm high boxing?
I just watched this and had the exact same thought.
The base course only takes up 25mm of the boxing. The other 50mm is below it
Good point! They actually put the boxing right at the base of the dirt then added the base course so it doesn’t make sense!
150mm, he has mentioned if you heard him correctly. 5yrs later lmao.
The boxing is 150mm 😂😂
You are so great, thank you for your show.
Thanks for watching! ^Charlie
Informative and too the point. Thanks for making a great guide.
I like the rebate idea - you just want to be perfectly sure your shed will fit over it! (Since this is aimed at the DIY person, maybe it's worth building your shed first to get perfect measurements)?
Also, in Australia we have a "concrete taxi" which is a truck that will mix your desired volume of concrete on site. No hiring mixers and lugging around bags of sand and concrete. Just wheel barrow it in as he makes it! No waste and no cleanup ;) might be worth a look for some people?
+ibsn87 Wow..I might have to move to Australia
isbn sexsho
isbn Ji
Vessels
@@raeannakirk5431 wtf?
Rebate explained super well. ✅
Thanks - any particular depth of sand ? Sand and base-course is 75 mm - it looks like 25mm sand and 50mm base-course. Is the ratio important ?
spot on instructions...thanks
S Mazur kkkoooomsss
Is this the same way to do footing, and cement floor for a garage?
No it's not you just pour the cement and level it out with a trole
I
Harrison Forsyth so you frame for footings & pad at the same time than pour it at once. Only the footing is deeper than spread cement over the whole pad with footing.
+Dennis Fossey bo7
Dennis Fossey and
ANOTHER GREAT JOB !! I am not a fan of the Metric System lol but the instructions were 'spot on'......
The metric system is less confusing than the imperial system..... Im mean....3/8ths of an inch?....a more round number is 9mm or 10mm.
I just came across his videos, and they're great.
As for metric, I live in Canada and have to deal with both metric and imperial ('cause we're close to the US), and I went through the change-over as a kid. Using integer numbers of feet still works for from 1 to 20 ft, but it breaks down when you're into fractions of an inch. What's 5 ft 3 5/8 inches minus 3 ft 7 3/16 inches? It's way easier to do that all in millimeters.
822 thumbs down? Why though? This vid is great
If you want the shed to be above ground, do you need to dig?
Hey Ryan, the pad can be level with the ground or raised above it. We've opted for level with the ground, so have removed 150mm of soil to allow for the compacted base course and concrete. Regardless of which option you choose, you'll likely need to remove a bit of soil and grass in order to ensured you've got a level surface to start from ^Matt
Wouldn't you need some sort of water course around that slab, considering it is below ground level at one end? I'm no expert, but that set up seemed wonky.
Awsome...No nonsense. Very informative. Thank you. :)
Don't forget to leave the nails and screws on the lawn for the mower to collect.
Thanks I almost forgot
Hahahahahahaha brilliant!
I'm from the USA. You guys don't have duplex nails down there?
When you take the boards out what stops the gravel falling away?
Yup thats what I want to know. AND if the gravel is 75mm and the concrete is 75mm that is 150 mm and the boards he used is 100mm. have I missed something.
Very good and simple instructions
What is the base comprised of? It looks like ash and gravel or similar.
+kakman1958 It's called 'Road Base'
Hi, are you using ready mix concrete?
0:39 "Just leave your nail sticking out a little way, when we take the boxing off it's gonna make it nice and easy". 0:45 Hammer it home son! Good work though, honestly I think these vids are good value. Keep it up Mitre10!
its harder to see, but he leaves it the second nail out as far as the first.
I will be laying a concrete slab (2 inches deth) on an existing concrete slab to level the surface. Do I need to put a mesh wire? Your comments is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
No you don't it's not deep enough
jay don z
Good job my friend . buen trabajo mi amigo. Eatoy aprendiendo con tus videos
great video
Awesome video. As always.
I am not in the construction industry nor am I a carpenter, I wanted a good guide to help with small projects such as small sheds and some remodeling around the house. So there’s a magic which is Shed Plan [ visit here *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. This Shed Plan covers all my instructions from top to bottom in a step by step manner.
I've read conflicting stuff online about moisture barriers. Some claiming pouring concrete onto it will not let it cure properly, causing the water to rise to top rather than draining through the basecourse. I'm not sure whether I should use it on my driveway?
From what I've seen, on a garage-size project, you use a vibrating wand to raise the water and let out air bubbles then you let it evaporate from the top of the concrete before you damp it down, keeping it moist while it finishes curing. I am DEFINITELY not an expert so do your own research.
You will get damp on back corner of shed where ground slopes
What about the rain. Does using wood a good option keeping in mind rain.
Hey Arun, you're not going to be wanting to lay your concrete in the rain. The timber is used for the boxing of the concrete pad and will be removed once the concrete has dried.
Great video
A hack idea i wanted some opinions on ... i have a remote property where the soil filters into a soft powdery sand. I'd like to make 24x24x6 deep pavers i can drive over but want to bring in the minimal amount of materials and Id like to mix each paver with a drill in place into a reusable plastic oil coated form. For reinforcement something in bags i can throw in and mix like some fiber. Think this will work? What's a good mix ratio if using portland cement? Any way to manually add some air to the pavers and make them even thicker? I was also thinking of manually compacting the base and adding a polymer to harded the base before it before mixing the cement over it. The form will have slightly rounded corners and i plan to cut out an aggressive bevel.
If you're located in New Zealand, definitely head into your local store and have a chat with our team. Otherwise, you're local DIY/hardware store should be able to give you some pointers ^Charlie
If you want to lay pavers or any sort of material to drive a car on, you will need to ensure you have a well compacted base, dig area out, place in 75mm base course compact, 20mm gap 7 fines and compact again.
For mixing ratios read the back of the cement bag. Place your form in place, add mesh if you want pavers to be as strong as possible (check out this video www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-paving ). If you are wanting to drive on these then I’d recommend that you make the pavers 100mm thick.
Good job
Cheers!
how did you finish around this? its below grade
Not worried rain water will pool in that low area?
Why is the pad on a downhill slope continuing below grade?Been in construction many years, never seen anything like this.
Obviously because the ground isn't level. Don't comment that you've been in construction because anyone with half a brain would notice.
+Kael Thanks for sharing your lack of common construction knowledge.
wow what a dumbass
+charles hitower Yes you are.
Sorry can't be your mentor on such a challenging subject for you.
Perhaps you should search for the missing gene before we continue.
☺
+charles hitower Did you make sure your timber was square before you continued you fucking rookie.
Best vid so far, now im gonna go get some fush n chups.....
2:10 shovel any unnecessary soil etc into next doors garden 😏🤣
Ii8oo9idn 6kcnx💩😇💩💩💩😇😇💙"# ⊙☆ yj
Ya , do that at night
Absolute comical 😂👍
Boom. Great video. Like it a lot.
Your shed looks great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I built an 8x10 shed for my kids in my backyard earlier this year using plans I got from *WoodBlueprints. Com* Clear directions and an accurate materials list...It was great for a novice builder like myself!
Your boxing is 100mm high but your fill is 150mm with 75mm concrete on top of 75mm basecourse, sand and polythene. What's the go? What did you do here to create the magic of no 'easy as' overflow?
Hi ***** , We dug down into the earth the make it flush. SR
+Mitre 10 New Zealand What he is trying to say is that your filll content is 150mm which is 50mm more than your 100mm boxing.
Sandra Papuni
My rebate needed to be 70mm. Ensure you really work the concrete up underneath. (Mine ended up rounded off a little on the outer edge) Otherwise, great video! 👍
Thanks for the informative video - i was wondering why is it necessary to cover
the soil with gravel and sand, then cover it plastic surface? Is the gravel and sand still necessary when plastic covering would be sufficient? Any feed back would be appreciate it.
late reply but its to stop the pad from sinking into the soil, just depends on how sturdy your ground is as nz soil is pretty soft
I've always wondered why the framings and concrete pour couldn't be done right over the grass? Is there any reason not to do it that way? 👍🇺🇸
Hey Jessi, like a lot of DIY projects, putting in that time to make sure your job is properly prepped makes the difference in the long term. In this case making sure plants/grass and any loose dirt is removed, your surface is levelled out and the base layers (and polythene) are sorted means that when it comes to getting your concrete down you'll have a better result. 👍 ^Matt
Great video.Thank you
to stop damp earth moisture coming up through concrete when concrete has gone hard, helps stop damp
👍nice job!
Thanks Betty! ^Ryan
Is the rebate for 3 or 4 sides?
Good video mate
Does the type of soil change how you build your slab?
Any chance anyone can tell me if he used a trencher?
Boxing is piged in place ?
I see you used mesh. Could you use old fence instead? I have some old farm fence. Does rust on the mesh matter?
It has to be galvenised
The mesh I see at Mitre10 is not galvanised and has some surface rust on it. It shouldn't rust any further once the concrete has cured as there is no air.
Why’s it so slanted 👀
Really excellent job.
Thanks great video.
This guy should show the real men who do the work.
Thanks
pretty good video
How many cement bags used and how many times you fill the mixer?? About give approx accurate figures.
Mate, I did a 2.3mx2.3m x 100mm thick. Took 50 bags of 20kg concrete. Get a mix truck!
By the way a couple of more questions: What is the standard strength of typical concrete mix, is it 3,000 PSI? And, when is reinforced steel bars used instead of wire mesh? Thanks again.
2900 psi or 145 psi= 1 mpa. This is for standard 20 mpa concrete.
And the comments do not fail to make me laugh. Awesome lol
Class wee video NZ Irish does the same 👌👍🤘🍻
Spot on
Why are we fixing pigs to the boxing? 🐷📦?... 1:58
Is it not lob sided lol?
Good vid. But is he speaking some English variant ? What's a "dipth" and a "shid" ?
NZ accent.
why did he put polythelyne?
Was the pad level? Or is it just me ?
If the slab is 150 mm in height including the base course, sand and concrete and the boxing is 100 mm in height where is the extra 50 mm?
Hi Joshua the measurements in the handy guide here www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-a-concrete-pad have 75mm from bottom of basecourse to polythene then its 75 mm of concrete :) ^Ryan
I hope it doesn't rain in New Zealand. If it does, the hill to the left is going to pour water down into your shed which is now below ground level...
Oh it rains all the time
+S. Smith I guess you do not understand what the rebate in the pad does... best you keep your mouth shut if you don't know what you are talking about.
+Eduardo Stutz Yeah, especially in Wellington.
Rhys Kempen tf are you talking about
exactly never build in wood below grade it will rot in next to no time
Why is he constantly saying shit? I pi... my pants! "First, we have to decide where our shit goes" 😆
Nice 👍
WHATS A SHID ?
What do ya mean what's a shid? He just laid the sleb for it out the beck, didn't you see? ;-)
bmuscottty bmuscottty
benjamin massie pp
benjamin massie 00m
Your mom's chest hair
I from Australia and New Zealand
lmao the whole time it sounded like he was saying shit..would make a good drinking game
Thanks mate
It doesn't look level but i know that's probably the lawn... He's great
*Big like !* 😆🙄😎🖒
thank u very much sir.
Oops I thought I was at Bunnings but this works too
What about the rat wall?
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
why is the pad not straight
hmmm, im guessing the ground must be seriously uneven, or that concrete pad is.
The ground is uneven
how many DIY people nail there boxing together then measure it and go 'yup spot on'..
defiantly not me , i do these things 4-5 times then rage hahah
@@guygoodwin you and me both...
Not me!
Lmao
0.01% 'yup spot on'.... 99.9% 'Ah sh*t'
Fun stuff