The man himself doubted his own creation, and they can survive nuclear armageddon.. What we can take away from this is that you should never believe in yourself, and you'll always be pleasantly surprised by your accomplishments!
Hey man I was looking for your bezel file all over the internet and couldn't find it. Would you be able to send me the model? I've made a few of my own but can't seem to get it as good as yours looked in the video.
Got a rusted out 97 manual and a rust free 2001 2wd auto. About to swap out engine trans and transfer case into the 2001. Funny my 2001 doesn't have the pop out for the clutch slave in the firewall like yours did. Glad You made this. I commend you for working out in the cold that shit sucks especially when a wrench slips and your half frozen hand slams into some metal. Thankfully my garage is now heated.
I am doing a manual swap on my 97 XJ right now and have referenced these videos many times. This has been extremely helpful, the Bible of XJ manual swap!! I can’t thank you enough for pulling these together. ❤
Thank you for posting this. The Azzy shift configuration is very clear now. I’ll set mine to that (running 242 on AX15). It’s interesting to see the differences of 96 & older to 97 and newer (mine is a 93). One thing you do inspire is conversion to the external Clutch Slave Cylinder. Mine is the very last year they used an accordion style slave cylinder that mounts inside bell housing , directly on input shaft. It does work well, but if slave cylinder dies; it means pulling transmission. I like the easier serviceability of the external one. One other note: because I never had automatic, the transfer case mode switch connector is set for 231 only (which ties one wire to ground when in part time mode. 242 uses case as ground, and then 1 wire for part time, and the other for full time. For conversion, I clipped the wire that’s ground for 231, and spliced wire up to the 4wd full time dash light. It works quite well. Thanks again for sharing your swap experience.
Before you reconfigure your shift linkage! The footage shown here isn't how it ended up, I changed the stud on the transfer case lever to the lowest one, not the highest one as seen in the video. We were messing with the thing for an hour and I got tired of trying to record it, so I just threw in some footage I already had. I will make a video covering it more in depth, I'll get you some better angles and elaborate on it with the visualization of it being on the video. Then again, the 96- models might be ever so slightly different, so even then my configuration might not work. I don't know, I've got a lot to figure out, but I will figure it out Also, thank you for the insight on the dashboard indicator circuit! I've never had the chance to get my hands on a 91-96 XJ and so I'm not really familiar with how that "era" has things laid out. Very interesting that it uses the case as the ground, where the 97+ models instead have 3 wires.
I have a 98 XJ with an AW4 automatic in it , and I own a AX15 trans too… Thanks for posting this video cause before i watched it I probably wouldn’t have done a manual swap in my 98 XJ BUT now im highly considering it…. Thanks again…
This would fall under the topic of too little, too late. Not sure but I think you can remove the actuator rod out of the booster without removing the booster. This would allow the pedal install much easier. This is a great series and done very well. God bless and stay well.
Man i got the trans off now im killing myself to get the flexplate swapped🤣🤣 gonna try the impact instead of the breakers hopefully thatll do something
Great video dude!!!! I’ve been told for years that this was impossible and can’t be done! I’ve got my donation Jeep coming next weekend!!! Love the quick prayer and cliffhanger at the very end!!!!
You could keep the original brake pedal, but as I described in part 1/3 in this series, the clutch pedal shares its bracket with the brake pedal. Since we need the clutch + brake shared assembly anyway, there's no reason to modify the brake pedal that doesn't also have the clutch pedal attached to it
Hey really good information here. Thanks. But my question is if I get a complete 4x4 manual 90 xj I should be able to swap everything to my 2wd auto 96 xj? Or I will have issues with the swap?
Renix to OBD-2 is not easy, you will encounter many issues with your plan here. I recommend watching my 2wd to 4x4 Swap video as well. I believe a 1990 AX-15 has a smaller input shaft and thus a different pilot bearing, the infamous internal slave cylinder, and a 21 spline output shaft for the transfer case, which means you'd have to use your 1990 transfer case too - which means that output shaft will be an internal slip yoke, which means you'll have to use the 1990's driveshaft, which means you'll need to have a Dana 35 in your 1996 (which I doubt) because the Chrysler 8.25 needs a different rear driveshaft. The clutch pedal from a 90 will also not work in a 96, you need a 95-96 clutch pedal. I recommend watching the previous video in this manual swap series for more explanations. That one and the 4x4 swap. I personally would NOT go this route, using a 1990 as a donor for a 1996.
@@WAEMIDIV what is the donor year will be best match with my 1996 jeep xj? I want to convert it 4x4. Now another question. Any grand cherokee will match for a convention?
Did you have any codes pop up after? have a 97 XJ and did the swap but im getting and engine light for codes P0753, P0743, and P1889. OBD2 says its for the auto transmission. Is there a workaround for those to codes? Thanks!
Sounds like you kept your original Automatic ECU, which yes, will be very confused as to where its transmission went. There is no way to get rid of these error codes because it doesn't have an automatic transmission anymore. The only thing you can do is either find and swap in a Manual ECU, or reprogram your existing ECU by sending it to WranglerFix as outlined in part 1/3 of the video series
Off the donor vehicle, where the flywheel came from. I have no idea if they sell them new, but I'm sure there's a length and thread pitch somewhere online
No, there are 3 different eras of pedal assembly between those years. 1984-1994 are all identical. The Clutch pedal arm mounts much closer to the brake pedal arm, with a small offset mount stud for the master cylinder pushrod of the left side of it. The master cylinder mount studs are directly on the top and bottom. The 1997-2001 pedals are much wider, where the clutch pedal arm extends straight down with a pushrod stud on the right side. The holes for the master cylinder are slightly offset, bottom one is on the left and top one is towards the right. The Pedals needed to be shorter in the early years [84-90] because the Fuse panel was mounted right behind the clutch pedal and needed to be accessible. The Fuse panel was moved, but the pedals didn't need to be changed until 1995. For only 2 years, 1995-1996, the pedals needed to be updated because of the overhauled braking system seen in the year. I've never actually seen a 95-96 XJ in person so I don't know what they look like, I just know they're different. 1997-2001 adapted a much wider pedal assembly because they *could*, and it also allowed the master cylinder studs to be offset, making it easier to install and remove. So in short, the pedal arm position, length, pedal pad position, brake pedal mechanism, and mounting points are all different between a 94 and a 98.
Yes, in fact I did exactly what you described to my Jeep (off camera). I did not install a CSS but did use the circuit as a kill switch. It 100% works but as I mentioned, it can still be push started. But honestly I don't think car theives know how to push start vehicles so you should be good.
![Jeep Cherokee: Manual Swap - Everything You Need to Know ['97-'01 XJ] AW4 to AX-15 or NV3550](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h138NSGFI7o/mqdefault.jpg)
Was a great video! I was NOT expecting my bezels to hold up that well!
The man himself doubted his own creation, and they can survive nuclear armageddon..
What we can take away from this is that you should never believe in yourself, and you'll always be pleasantly surprised by your accomplishments!
@@WAEMIDIV a very good point!!!
Where can I buy it!
@@bryanumana9927 bro
instagram link in the description
I replied to your other comment on the other video with that link
Hey man I was looking for your bezel file all over the internet and couldn't find it. Would you be able to send me the model? I've made a few of my own but can't seem to get it as good as yours looked in the video.
Got a rusted out 97 manual and a rust free 2001 2wd auto. About to swap out engine trans and transfer case into the 2001. Funny my 2001 doesn't have the pop out for the clutch slave in the firewall like yours did. Glad You made this. I commend you for working out in the cold that shit sucks especially when a wrench slips and your half frozen hand slams into some metal. Thankfully my garage is now heated.
LOL it's got 2 dislikes, presumably because of the cliffhanger ending GET REKT NERDS
The ending was my favourite part
I am doing a manual swap on my 97 XJ right now and have referenced these videos many times. This has been extremely helpful, the Bible of XJ manual swap!! I can’t thank you enough for pulling these together. ❤
Thank you for posting this. The Azzy shift configuration is very clear now. I’ll set mine to that (running 242 on AX15).
It’s interesting to see the differences of 96 & older to 97 and newer (mine is a 93).
One thing you do inspire is conversion to the external Clutch Slave Cylinder. Mine is the very last year they used an accordion style slave cylinder that mounts inside bell housing , directly on input shaft. It does work well, but if slave cylinder dies; it means pulling transmission. I like the easier serviceability of the external one.
One other note: because I never had automatic, the transfer case mode switch connector is set for 231 only (which ties one wire to ground when in part time mode. 242 uses case as ground, and then 1 wire for part time, and the other for full time. For conversion, I clipped the wire that’s ground for 231, and spliced wire up to the 4wd full time dash light. It works quite well.
Thanks again for sharing your swap experience.
Before you reconfigure your shift linkage! The footage shown here isn't how it ended up, I changed the stud on the transfer case lever to the lowest one, not the highest one as seen in the video. We were messing with the thing for an hour and I got tired of trying to record it, so I just threw in some footage I already had.
I will make a video covering it more in depth, I'll get you some better angles and elaborate on it with the visualization of it being on the video.
Then again, the 96- models might be ever so slightly different, so even then my configuration might not work. I don't know, I've got a lot to figure out, but I will figure it out
Also, thank you for the insight on the dashboard indicator circuit! I've never had the chance to get my hands on a 91-96 XJ and so I'm not really familiar with how that "era" has things laid out. Very interesting that it uses the case as the ground, where the 97+ models instead have 3 wires.
ruclips.net/video/A8kKUzokAlE/видео.html
Skip to 12:55 for the linkage configuration
I have a 98 XJ with an AW4 automatic in it , and I own a AX15 trans too… Thanks for posting this video cause before i watched it I probably wouldn’t have done a manual swap in my 98 XJ BUT now im highly considering it….
Thanks again…
As for the 242 t-case, it is only a good swap if you have ABS and a limited slip diff in the rear. This is where the 242 really shines.
Oh yap. I got a separate video all about the 242 swap
This would fall under the topic of too little, too late. Not sure but I think you can remove the actuator rod out of the booster without removing the booster. This would allow the pedal install much easier. This is a great series and done very well. God bless and stay well.
Man i got the trans off now im killing myself to get the flexplate swapped🤣🤣 gonna try the impact instead of the breakers hopefully thatll do something
Thanks for the information, I appreciate it all
Regarding the NSS connector, which side is the top? The one with the locking clip or the other?
Great video dude!!!! I’ve been told for years that this was impossible and can’t be done! I’ve got my donation Jeep coming next weekend!!!
Love the quick prayer and cliffhanger at the very end!!!!
I done the swap and now I’m getting a no bus any help!!
Just did this swap. Cruise works fine but the indicator light doesn't work, does it work on yours?
The cruise light on the dashboard? Yes it does, maybe the bulb happened to burn out. If the cruise works but the light doesn't, it must be the bulb
nice video but do you need to change the brake pedal? cant you just cut of the sides of it and put on it rubber from a manual brake pedal?
You could keep the original brake pedal, but as I described in part 1/3 in this series, the clutch pedal shares its bracket with the brake pedal. Since we need the clutch + brake shared assembly anyway, there's no reason to modify the brake pedal that doesn't also have the clutch pedal attached to it
Hey really good information here. Thanks. But my question is if I get a complete 4x4 manual 90 xj I should be able to swap everything to my 2wd auto 96 xj? Or I will have issues with the swap?
Renix to OBD-2 is not easy, you will encounter many issues with your plan here. I recommend watching my 2wd to 4x4 Swap video as well.
I believe a 1990 AX-15 has a smaller input shaft and thus a different pilot bearing, the infamous internal slave cylinder, and a 21 spline output shaft for the transfer case, which means you'd have to use your 1990 transfer case too - which means that output shaft will be an internal slip yoke, which means you'll have to use the 1990's driveshaft, which means you'll need to have a Dana 35 in your 1996 (which I doubt) because the Chrysler 8.25 needs a different rear driveshaft.
The clutch pedal from a 90 will also not work in a 96, you need a 95-96 clutch pedal. I recommend watching the previous video in this manual swap series for more explanations. That one and the 4x4 swap. I personally would NOT go this route, using a 1990 as a donor for a 1996.
@@WAEMIDIV no even if i have the complete 90 jeep xj?
@@WAEMIDIV what is the donor year will be best match with my 1996 jeep xj? I want to convert it 4x4. Now another question. Any grand cherokee will match for a convention?
I’ve heard rumors about the transfercase input shaft from an automatic being to long for the AX15, did you have this issue??
@@hunterfon3114 I did not have this issue. You should watch part 1 of this series I cover that in detail
Did you have any codes pop up after? have a 97 XJ and did the swap but im getting and engine light for codes P0753, P0743, and P1889. OBD2 says its for the auto transmission. Is there a workaround for those to codes? Thanks!
Sounds like you kept your original Automatic ECU, which yes, will be very confused as to where its transmission went. There is no way to get rid of these error codes because it doesn't have an automatic transmission anymore.
The only thing you can do is either find and swap in a Manual ECU, or reprogram your existing ECU by sending it to WranglerFix as outlined in part 1/3 of the video series
Are those 3D printed bezels available to purchase?
yes, in the description there is a link to Bryant's Instagram, @xjoverlander you can message him to buy one, he makes them
Where did you get the bolts for the pressure plate?
Off the donor vehicle, where the flywheel came from. I have no idea if they sell them new, but I'm sure there's a length and thread pitch somewhere online
@@WAEMIDIV gotcha, i ended up using 3/8-16 x 1” grade 5 hex cap screws
Whats the difference between a clutch & brake pedal setup in a 94 XJ and a 98 XJ ???
They both should be the same right ???
No, there are 3 different eras of pedal assembly between those years.
1984-1994 are all identical. The Clutch pedal arm mounts much closer to the brake pedal arm, with a small offset mount stud for the master cylinder pushrod of the left side of it. The master cylinder mount studs are directly on the top and bottom.
The 1997-2001 pedals are much wider, where the clutch pedal arm extends straight down with a pushrod stud on the right side. The holes for the master cylinder are slightly offset, bottom one is on the left and top one is towards the right.
The Pedals needed to be shorter in the early years [84-90] because the Fuse panel was mounted right behind the clutch pedal and needed to be accessible.
The Fuse panel was moved, but the pedals didn't need to be changed until 1995. For only 2 years, 1995-1996, the pedals needed to be updated because of the overhauled braking system seen in the year. I've never actually seen a 95-96 XJ in person so I don't know what they look like, I just know they're different.
1997-2001 adapted a much wider pedal assembly because they *could*, and it also allowed the master cylinder studs to be offset, making it easier to install and remove.
So in short, the pedal arm position, length, pedal pad position, brake pedal mechanism, and mounting points are all different between a 94 and a 98.
@@WAEMIDIV I understand now Thank you very much for that info..
The pedal swap nearly ended the project on it's own.
Will the bezel fit on a 1999 XJ?
yes, 97-01 are all the same
Where do I get the 3d printed bezel in currently doing this swap
instagram.com/xj_overlander/?hl=en
Contact this guy on Instagram he can set you up with one
1 more question for you , will a manual trans NP231 bolt up behind a AW4 ??
Yes but you'll want a medium length input shaft on that transfer case. Other than that, they're all the same
@@WAEMIDIV Once again Thank you
Do I just message his insta for the bezel he’s made? Don’t know if he’s got it listed somewhere
He has a business email now, I have just updated the description with it. He doesn't have them listed because it's a pretty niche thing
@@WAEMIDIV would you happen to have it? And I wanted to say thanks for all the info on the swap! Just finished mine have about 200 miles on it so far
@@10001damon partsbybryant@gmail.com
@38:45
If I DONT want the clutch safety switch hooked up, but I want a “kill/no start” switch,…that would work right???
Yes, in fact I did exactly what you described to my Jeep (off camera). I did not install a CSS but did use the circuit as a kill switch. It 100% works but as I mentioned, it can still be push started. But honestly I don't think car theives know how to push start vehicles so you should be good.
WAEMID IV
I don’t think people know how to drive a stick anymore, so there’s one level of security!